Re9: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 3/29/08 Thank you Scott for your time. <Welcome John, I have combined your three emails into one for simplicity.> Of coarse I have some other questions. <OK> What steps should I take when I am going to start to fill the tank? Should I start to fill main tank till the water gets to the return pump. <Yes, above the return pump.> Then what? <Start the pump if all the plumbing is done!> Or what do you recommend? What are the chances of the main tank overflowing, <Very little (there is always a chance) if your return is sized appropriately.> what’s the best way to prevent this? <Appropriate flow for the drains.> The sump I’m not to worried about because it will be located in the garage. <You still don’t want to lose water!> I was thinking of maybe using one of the 3/4"in the MegaFlows, maybe putting a 1"1/2 PVC pipe just below the tank rim, through wall to outside just incase the water rose it would just drain out of main tank. But then I’m loosing a drain. What do you think? <This would amount to very little. If you outrun the other drains one ¾” emergency drain will amount to very little safety margin.> Can I wait a couple of months until I get a skimmer to start running tank ? <To start it at all? Yes. You can stock the tank without a skimmer, but I always advocate for the use of a skimmer, from the start.> Thanks again for your time with my set-up, if it wasn’t for you I wouldn’t even attempt this. <Welcome John, it sounds like it is all coming together.> Hey Scott, it’s John again. I am working on the plumbing under tank just wanted to know what you think. I’m using 4 "tees" 1"1/2" to 2", both the 1" and 3/4" drains are coming down from tank into the tees. <OK> My question is I have to go into wall to the immediate left of the outlet in the picture. I might have to put an elbow then out the wall. All the water will come down to left through wall into sump. Or should I divert the water from both over flows to middle then through wall, or is it ok the other way? <Whatever works to get the plumbing done. You will not lose much flow either way, you are well below the capacity of a 2” pipe.> The immediate right I put a clean out, and the valves are mostly for emergency shut down. <No reason for valves on a gravity fed line. Shutting off the return pump will shut down the lines.> I added some pictures for you to see. Of course they will be higher up, the main is a 2" as you recommended. The inlets to the "tees" are an 1"1/2. <Sounds fine.> Hey Scott, I just wanted to see what you think about the plumbing under my tank so far. This is the only possible way I can see doing it. I have both sides spilling into center, to go into wall. <This will work fine.> The center is about were its going to come out to drop into sump in garage. The black valve behind is the return, it’s 1" up to tank, then reduced to 3/4"along top. Then I have 3 outlets at top, left, center, right of tank. Each will have a 6" 1/2"flex pipe, with valves. I attached pictures, almost there, thanks. Hope it looks ok, John. <All looks fine, welcome, Scott V.> Thanks buddy, you are a great help. John <Welcome, enjoy finishing the setup, it is my favorite part! Scott V.>

Re10: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 3/29/08 Hey Scott, I just had a question re to the bulk heads, the 1" under tank is a slip fitting, I put the 1" PVC into with PVC cement, it just seamed a little loose to me. Is this supposed to be the 1" PVC slips into this bulk head and that's it? <Cementing it in is fine and advisable.> Also the 3/4"under tank is a threaded fitting. The bulkhead I used 100%silicone on both sides of gasket, I used plumbers putty below tank , hand tightened nut .Is this ok? <Hand tight is fine. What did you use plumber’s putty on, the threads into the bulkhead? I would remove this and use silicone hear, much less likely to leak.> Or should I use a wrench. My next question is the stand I’m using is an AGA cherry wood cabinet. This was the cabinet for the 210 tank I had. I took the right side off the cabinet, was able to cut the floor of it and reattach the right panel, making it a 48" cabinet. I used corner brackets added vertical wood and horizontal pieces for further support. I then added more pieces along top inner rim. I put 1/2"ply-wood on top with middle support. I know its hard to say but does this sound all right? <It sounds like it will be fine.> I will take pictures to try to capture what I am saying. <Ok, sounds good. From you description it sounds as though you made the stand strong enough. Scott V.> Re10: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 3/29/08 Hey Scott, I just came down from putting kids to sleep. Anyway, I just removed the plumbers putty from the bulkheads, I won't be able to sleep knowing this may be a problem. <You will be better off for doing this.> You don't know how much I must thank you for all your help, with my tank set up and even my writing and grammar. I know its not perfect, but I've learned to take my time (ha ha). <Thank you John, it is always a pleasure to help where and when I can.> Well good night. Time to work on plumbing the sump/refugium. I'm waiting for my 3/8" glass to be cut. Then I could start on that. So I wont bother you for a while. Thanks a million Scott, talk to you soon.. John. <Very welcome, do let us know how it all comes out, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 4/4/08 Hey guys, I just had a question or two. I was wondering if it was ok to use clear 1"flex pipe to plumb my return pump? <Hmmm, yes vinyl tubing? It can kink and restrict flow if you are not careful. Flexible PVC or nylon reinforced vinyl are a better choice.> I’m probably going to use rigid PVC 1"right at pump with 1"valve, then the 1" clear pipe approx 5' to rigid PVC were it enters the back wall. I wanted to use flex (white) PVC, but Home Depot, pool suppliers don’t carry it. <Most do under the SpaFlex label.> Don’t want to order on line because I don’t need 50'.My next question is regarding the Durso pipes, the 1" is a slip and the 3/4" is threaded in overflow boxes. I feel it’s going to be difficult to get exactly the same heights due to one being a slip and the other being threaded. When I build them out of tank they might be exact but when one is put into slip fitting then one being threaded might throw off there heights. It’s also very difficult to measure them in the overflow boxes due to avail room. What do you recommend? <Build both and “dry fit” before cementing anything this will make it easy for you to adjust the heights to match. You may have to install and remove the standpipes a time or two, but this is about the long run, a little extra effort is worth it.> While I have you here I just wanted to sum up what I have set up so far to see what you think. 2-1" AND 2-3/4" over flows being used as drainage coming down under tank to all 1" approx 10", then to 1" 1/2" "tee" to a 2" manifold. This is drained from middle approx 1"right into wall. When it comes out the other side it extends approx 1' then a 45 degree then down into sump. The sump area is approx 2' x 22",spills over 3/8 glass approx 16"high then under and over the third baffle which is 15". The refugium is in the middle, approx 33" x 2' then hits the second set of baffles 14" then 13" to the return pump. <This all sounds fine.> Returning water back to tank through 1" flex or PVC into wall. The 1" runs up the back of tank were it splits in middle I used a 3/4" PVC, then three 1/2" return nozzles along back, left, center, right of the tank. I will be using 1/2" flex pipe to direct flow to different areas in tank which will have little valves to control flow in tank. <I assume you are referring to Loc-Line, a good configuration.> I know this is a little lengthy but I just want it to all be right. Thanks John, PS, what size return pump did you recommend for this application, and what make of pump? <I would choose something in the 700-800 gph at your head height for this, a Eheim 1262 if it were me.> I was thinking mag. <You can go this route, a Mag 9.5 will do the trick. Good luck, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium Re: Sump/Refugium, Tubing found 4/5/08 Hey Scott, thanks for the response. <Welcome.> I found the tubing I needed. Yes the SpaFlex tubing. 6' for $11. <Great!> Also regarding the Durso pipes I found the "Durso" web site and ordered the 1" and 3/4" pipes pre made. I am using the LocLine in the tank for returns. I ordered (3) 6" flex line tubes with a valve on each so I have control of flow in tank. I also ordered flared ends. Should I drill a small hole in the flex pipe to break the siphon just below the water line, and if yes what size hole? <You certainly can, a few 1/8-3/16” holes in each line will do the trick.> I’m going to send you pics in my next e-mail of the sump/refugium. <Sounds good, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 4/5/08 Hey Scott, here’s the pics of the sump/refugium. I hope they came out, John. Thanks for all the help. Hey Scott, I didn’t know if you got my pics last night, ,here they are again. John <Yes, they came through this time. Although a little blurry, the design looks good, this will work fine. Welcome, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 4/7/08 Hey Scott, I just had a question. <Hello again John.> I was wondering if I should "tee" off the spa flex that’s running over the refugium with a valve. <I would not.> Would this lesson the flow in the main tank returns? <Yes, this approach wastes power in my opinion.> Or should I put in a power head for more flow. <If you need more flow in the refugium this is the way to go.> I would like to put in some Chaetomorpha algae. Could I use a plant grow light from home depot for this? <Certainly.> If yes what type do you recommend? <I use, recommend and even sell a patio light from Costco for refugium use. It is a 6500 Kelvin 65 watt quad compact bulb for around $8. It does need a cord attached to it and has a photo sensor that needs to be removed. Any 6500K or so fluorescent bulb will serve you well here.> Should I wait to put in the Chaetomorpha algae when cycling or put it in immediately? <I like to wait until the tank is cycled and stable to add the macroalgae. Best regards, Scott V.> Re: 120 reef sump/refugium MegaFlow Modification 4/17/08 Hey guys. <Hello John.> I have a couple of questions. First, I got my pump hooked up and tested, filled tank and sump. Seemed to work no leaks in plumbing. <Great!> I’m using the Mag pump 9.5 I know you suggested Eheim, but got it for a good price. <We all use different pumps, the Mags are a fine choice.> I drained all because I’m waiting for the Durso pipes to get here. Still need to get skimmer, light and rock. So my question is I was reading on the Durso web sight under mega flow modification. They cut out the teeth and put in a mesh face. They cut a piece of gutter guard and hot glued in place. This was done for more flow. What do you think about this? <I have seen this many places and find it totally unnecessary. The thinking is to increase the flow through the overflow, but the teeth are not the issue, it is bulkhead size. Fact of the matter is the bulkhead(s) limit the flow to just a bit more than 300 gph if you use the 1” and around 450 per overflow if you also use the ¾” as a drain. The teeth (I have actually tested this) are good for a little more than 900 gph.> It just seems good to me due to the teeth clogging up. <Yes, if you wind up with serious algae issues.> Would this be ok in my application? <It does not hurt, it is just not needed in my opinion.> My last question was I have an FX-5 canister filter from my previous set up. Could I use this at my sump just for carbon or other things. NOT <mechanical> filtration. Or would this also cause high nitrates? Just wanted your input on this or should I just scrap it and put directly in sump? Thanks again, John. <You could use the canister for this purpose. Although it is an inconvenient way to run carbon compared to making yourself a tray of some sort in your sump to hold it. You will still need to clean the canister and the carbon is just far easier to change out in the sump. Welcome, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 4/21/08 Hey Scott just wanted to let you know I received the Durso pipes yesterday. When I put them in they stuck up from the rim approx 1"-2" inches. They said to measure from the top rim to bulkhead. So I cut them down around 3" now the top cap is level with the overflow box. I don’t know why they said measure to the tank rim. <It’s just a standard reference point for your type of overflow.> Well any way, it’s all filled up again all seems to be working well. Just adjusting the hole in Durso a little bit you can still here water swishing, little noisy but not gurgling, the water sounds smooth. <Sounds good.> No bubbles or micro bubbles in main tank, just a little ripple at top of water. I’m just waiting for my skimmer, compact flr light; thinking about an orbit 96x4 high output fixture? <Depends on what you want to keep.> Then I’m going to stock with some live rock. Then wait, wait, wait some more. You mentioned putting carbon directly into tank on a tray. Should this be put right under water flow from supply line? <No, this will grind the carbon up on itself. It needs to be behind some sort of diffuser such as a drip tray, not beneath any kind of forceful flow.> Or can it just be placed on the bottom of sump? <Yes, in an area where water will pass through such as between baffles.> Which section, the first skimmer supply side or last return side? <Closer to the last.> My supply side is 2" with a 90 degree approx just below the water line. Should I raise it up out of the water with a tray below so the water falls onto carbon or and filter pad tray area? Or just leave as is? <Leave it the way it is.> Other than these little things I let it run over night for the first time so far so good thanks again to you. <Great to hear! You’re welcome.> YEP, I am also re searching your web site for info. <Good.> Sorry to bother you again, John. <No bother, best of luck, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 5/7/08 Hey Scott, its John again. <Hello John.> I just wanted to give you an update. I received my light fixture today orbit 2x250 HQI 65x4 ho actincs,18 moon lights. <Wow! Eighteen? Some moonlighting!> All's I can say is WOW! This thing is BRIGHT!!! <I bet.> The tank looks awesome. I have approx 120lbs Fiji live rock in it right now I didn’t go with the base rock from Dr. Fosters the shipping was going to be around $200. <The issue with ordering live rock from most Etailers, the shipping kills them too!> So I went local lfs got $3.99 lbs over 50lbs for premium not base rock. <A fair price.> The Euro Reef RS 180 is working great, right out of the box. <As it should.> I have a couple of questions about the lighting. How should I set up timers for lighting, in morning the actinics what time to start and for how long? Then the HQI'S, what time should they turn on and how long should they be on? <What time is relative to when you want to view the tank, so long as it is the same time everyday. Ten hours with the halides while having the actinics come on an hour before and stay on an hour after will work with this lighting, if that is the sunrise/sunset effect you would like.> Should the actinics be on from start of morning to night. <Generally, yes.> Then HQI'S go on for around 6 hours middle of day then turn off.I m gonna run the tank for a few months with just the rock. <You will want a more natural photoperiod in the range of 10-12 hours a day. With lower light corals you may be able to get away with 8 using these lights.> Should the lighting be off during initial cycling, or should just actinics be on for a few hours a day? <Some light curing rock, some don’t. I am firmly in the category that does to preserve as much life on the rock as possible. The argument for not lighting is the potential for algae blooms. This is just a phase that requires good skimming and frequent water changes.> Sorry for all the questions I’m throwing out at you. <Not a problem.> Last question should I put in a couple of green Chromis to help cycle or the rock will handle the cycle alone. <It will be fine alone. Adding fish while cycling can be detrimental to the fish if the rock has much curing to do.> I know you frown against any live stock during cycling. <Yes, better to wait until your water quality is good and stable.> I will be testing water daily now that all is up in running to monitor and log down the readings. Well thanks again Scott I have been researching all of this also, I just prefer specific answers from "you" because you've got me this far all your answers have been dead on. Thanks again <You are welcome John. Thank you and enjoy the new set up! Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium/Sand 5/10/08 Hey Scott, I have a quick question. <Otay.> What's better sand from an established tank from the local fish stores system or the bagged Caribbean live sand. <The former, the bagged stuff does not qualify as a truly live sand in my book.> I opted for the system established sand around 5 lbs with rubble rather than the bag of live sand. <Good choice.> I thought I read that the live sand is not really live sand. <Not the bagged and sealed stuff.> Also I had around 50LBS of old Caribbean live rock from my old tank it has dried out. I wanted to use this in my tank under my new Fiji live rock. Is this ok? Its to just build up under the good rock. <This will be fine combined with your newly acquired live rock. As far as the sand goes, either will populate in time from the rock. Getting sand from an established system will just give you a little head start. Enjoy, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 5/10/08 P.s. I thought you might find this funny. I’m at the LFS and the guy asked me what I'm cycling my tank with, I said just live rock. He tells me they have a sort of fish rental a large, looked like a 8 lb fish for $350 bucks <Geez, I hope the price is a typo!> you actually buy him to cycle your tank then bring him back to replace after the tank has cycled. He said he's been in many systems for cycling purposes. What do you think of this practice? <There are far better ways to cycle a tank, and it is wholly unnecessary for tanks with live rock (other than curing the rock). I am of the firm opinion you only cycle a tank with fish you intend to keep, hence caution against using Domino damsels for this purpose. I guess renting the fish is one idea, one way to introduce disease too! Funny stuff, Scott V.>

Re: 90 gallon AGA, to become reef.
Re: Refugium Plumbing 3/3/08
So upon making my choice of Refugium (I ended up going with ADHI model 45)
I'm now down to the annoying task of plumbing.
<An accurately described job.>
I'm trying to plumb the ¾” return from my Mag drive using 3/4 inch pvc as opposed to vinyl tubing.
<OK>
Problem being, AGA's bulkheads seem to be more of a hindrance than anything. I cannot for the life of me get the pvc connected to the bulkheads. Can I get new bulkheads without the barbed fittings at the base of the bulkhead that will still be compatible with the return pipe and MegaFlow "Durso"? I'm very confused.
<You can easily get standard bulkheads and plumb them up to suit your needs. Everything is sold as a kit, but uses standard PVC parts. All will work with new bulkheads.>
Jason
<Good luck, Scott V.>

Running Protein Skimmer Outside Sump 2/28/08
Hello
<Hello.>
I have a new 65 gallon reef ready all glass set up. I also have a 11.5 gallon refugium.
<Great! A refugium is a nice addition to any tank.>
My problem is that my skimmer is too wide to fit into the compartments... how can I plumb the skimmer outside the refugium or use a container to place it into? I have a 38 gal reef set up I am moving to the new 65 gallon.
Thanks
<As far as externally plumbing the skimmer, it will depend on which skimmer you have. Some simply cannot be run like this. You can easily get a container (tank, plastic bin, 5 gal bucket if it will fit into it) to run it in. You will need to have your overflow feeding the skimmer container and then have the container overflow into the rest of your sump/refugium system via a bulkhead (Uniseals are nice if you use the 5 gal bucket) and PVC. There are many ways to do this, all different for each situation. It all just requires a little innovation. Good luck, Scott V.>

Remote Refugium 2/24/08
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hello William.>
For starters I would like to say what a wonderful resource WWM is and hope it continues indefinitely into the future. Many of my "unique" questions have be asked and answered countless times on WWM, and for that I am already in your debt (along with a national home loan company).
<Heee, me too! Thank you for the kind words.>
My current question pertains to locating a remote refugium in my bedroom (romance any one), I am sure this is not a novel idea and has been asked and answered previously, but I was unable to find it and will proceed.
The display tank is in the living room and has been running for two years, my former tank (running eight years) was destroyed during the 2005 hurricane season like so many gulf coast aquarists.
<Sorry to hear this.>
My current setup is a 170-gallon (4'L x 3'H x 2’W; beautiful to behold and impossible to reach the bottom) soft coral reef with eight fish, highlighted by two rabbit fish, which are my personal favorites. Water handling is similar to most, center overflow with a thirty-gallon sump which contains an ETTS reef devil skimmer, a small refugium, heaters, and return pump. The lighting is accomplished via a 400 watt metal halide and 4 65 watt actinic power compacts while water flow is enhanced by an in tank maxi jet 1200 (I am planning to mod the maxi as I hear it is all the rage in Paris these days).
<I am a fan of those mods, I have rigged many of these up over the years. The new kits are nice.>
I would like to create a more natural and stable system by adding a seventy-five or 120 gallon refugium to the mix. The common problem of space and décor comes in to play and there is no possible way to put the new tank in the same room (and stay married).
<Yikes!>
So I would like to plumb through the wall and attic into the bedroom and put the refugium in there as a fuge display. What is the best method for doing this in a leak and over flow proof way?
<This is not going to happen without relying on siphons, float valves and/or balancing pump outputs. None are flood proof, all are bad ideas in my judgment.><<Agreed. RMF>>
I have never had a problem with any drilled tank and sump set up (knocking on wood) and will only pursue this idea if it seems fool proof.
<I would not pursue this; you will not see it in my house!>
Gravity feed is impossible because I live in a one-story slab house; basements in south Louisiana are very uncommon. A closed loop setup with dual pumps seams guaranteed to fail.
<It will.>
At any rate your input will be helpful in deciding if this is a reasonable project or turn my attention in another direction (like doing a water change).
<It is easy to find something to keep busy with a reef tank!>
Thank you,
William B Wood
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

Refugium Flow 2/23/08
I currently have a CPR hang on the back refugium (the large one, I think 24" long). My main question is what should the gph be for this unit. The powerhead it came with doesn't seem like it's pushing the water fast enough.
<The powerhead that comes with the unit is rated for 230 gph, this should be plenty of flow through this refugium. Sometimes it is not about the amount of flow, but how it is directed. Have you tried cleaning the powerhead?>
On the top of the water, in my fuge, there is like Cyano and it looks like little bogs. There is like Cyano on all of the acrylic of the fuge as well. There is NO Cyano in my main tank, only in the refugium.
<Good sign.>
I'm thinking about upgrading to a better power head, the macroalgae doesn't even tumble or anything.
<You certainly can do so, this could help.>
Also, my refugium has a lot of what looks like debris on top of the sand. Is this detritus?
<Or algae, Cyano.>
Should I remove it?
<You can, this will be a treatment and not a cure.>
I've heard that the little amphipods with eat it, and don't worry.
<Not all, algae and Cyanobacteria are likely.>
I don't want this being a nitrate booster for my tank. Should I add a cucumber to the refugium?
<No, little benefit to and many down sides to adding these, please see the linked article below. Perhaps consider adding a Nassarius snail or two to help stir the sand.>
Or will the new flow rate just blow it into my tank then my skimmer can take care of it.
<It sounds like it will help out.>
Any advice on these two situations is always helpful from you guys/gals. Thanks
<Welcome, please read the links below, good luck, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seacukes.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/refugpbfaq2.htm

Thoughts and Suggestions on a Combined Refugium/Sump…and Pumps – 01/07/07
Hi Crew!
<<Hiya Doug!>>
I've been in the hobby just a few months now, and am excited to step up from my 20G to a 120G!
<<Neat! Bigger “is” better>>
I'm planning for mostly FOWLR, but may add more inverts/corals as I slowly gain experience.
<<Mmm, then do keep this in mind when making your stocking selections…you will want to collect “reef friendly” specimens>>
Here are my current plans:
- 120G tank, 48x24x24", acrylic.
- Stand 40" tall, 9" canopy.
- 2 corner overflows – each with 2" inner diameter bulkhead at 20" height.
<<Ahh, very good…I see you’ve been reading!>>
- 2x 1" inner diameter bulkheads for return from sump.
For a sump/refugium below, I'm thinking of a standard 55G tank following your diagrams.
<<”Standard” glass tanks work quite well as sump and/or refugium vessels…and are a whole-lot cheaper than the purpose-built retail alternatives. Add a few baffles, drill and install a couple bulkheads (when/if necessary), and you’re “golden”…with money saved/ready to spend on other areas. My own system incorporates a modified 55g tank for a refugium, and a modified 75g tank for a sump>>
- Skimmer: AquaC EV180 w Mag 7 pump.
- Aiming for 15x water flow gives 1800gph.
<<Indeed…but I expect you will find that trying to process this much water volume through a 55g sump will be problematic>>
- Two sump return pumps, internal Eheim 1262s (want it to be quiet), should be about 1600gph at 5" head.
<<Very good pumps…and the “redundancy” of two pumps for your return can be a lifesaver, literally. About a year ago a faulty GFCI tripped and shut down the return pump on my heavily stocked 500g reef system (was off more than nine hours before discovery). The ensuing anoxic condition resulted in the loss of more than $1200.00 worth of livestock (fish and corals). Let’s just say “lesson learned”… I now have two return pumps on separate circuits for this system>>
Questions:
1. Is that too much flow through the refugium?
<<Yes… A couple to a few hundred gallons per hour is generally sufficient for a refugium. Obviously, utilizing “separate” vessels for sump and refugium make plumbing for the differing flow rates a bit easier>>
2. If so, would it work well to use just a single Eheim for the sump return, ~800gph, with an internal powerhead like a Tunze Stream in the tank?
<<800gph through the sump would be easier to accommodate (and a LOT less noisy), and some creative work with the baffles could provide a “raceway” to allow the full force of the flow to circumvent the refugium section on its way from the skimmer chamber to the pump chamber, while allowing you to divert a few hundred gph to the ‘fuge…if you choose to keep with a single combined vessel. I still like the idea of two return pumps…perhaps a couple Eheim pumps of lesser size…>>
Then maybe reduce the drains to 2x 1.5"ID?
<<A pair of 1.5” drains would handle a flow of 800gph quite well, with a healthy safety margin>>
Your thoughts and suggestions are very welcome!
Thanks,
Doug
<<Is my pleasure to assist. EricR>>

Upward Flow? (Refugium Setup) – 01/06/07
Hi crew,
<<Hello Kevin>>
I currently have a 70g SW FOWLR tank with a 30g sump/refugium.
<<Neat!>>
My refugium is setup as a DSB (5") RDP with live rock and Chaetomorpha with a 60w 5100K spiral CF light clipped on the side.
<<Hmm…do you find this to be enough light? I’m finding Chaetomorpha does better with a bit more light than this>>
So far it has been doing fine and the Chaetomorpha has been growing steadily.
<<Ah, I see… If it does “stall out” then do consider increasing the amount/intensity of the lighting>>
The refugium has been up and running now for about 6 months. I have read some of your other FAQs and noticed you mentioning the term "upward flow" in regards to refugium setup.
<<Hmm, doesn’t ring a bell with me at the moment>>
What exactly is this?
<<Dunno…can you be more specific?>>
I am concerned my refugium may not be setup ideally. Currently the main source of any water flow is a MaxiJet powerhead running a tube into the refugium then the refugium overflows into the main sump where the return pump is.
<<Where is the powerhead located? My preference is to feed “raw” water from the display to the refugium and then let it gravity-drain to the sump…but, if you are pumping water from the sump…this is acceptable>>
What do I need to do to have ideal "upward flow" in my refugium to fully utilize my DSB/RDP Chaetomorpha setup?
<< No need to make this more difficult than it is, mate [grin]. If you’ve got a couple hundred gallons per hour from the powerhead going to the refugium, and the macro-algae is growing as you stated…I don’t see where you need to do anything>>
Also, in the next month or two I will be venturing into learning how to hard plumb my aquarium.
<<Okay>>
The water will be split from the overflow pipe coming down to the sump/refugium.
<<Excellent>>
Ball valves will be used to make sure there is more flow to the main sump then to the refugium.
<<Consider using “gate-valves” rather than ball-valves. They will cost a few dollars more, but will provide much more precise flow adjustment>>
Keeping in mind my setup, what considerations should I have as far as pipe placement into the refugium and sump? Should the pipes go straight down and deep? Or should it end in a small 90 degree towards the surface? What would be the ideal way to have the water enter into the sump and refugium via PVC?
<<I find a 45-degree ell on the termination end, a couple inches below the surface, works well>>
I am sorry it is partially a two part question on two topics though hard plumbing into the refugium will inevitably effect the "upward flow" and the lay out in my refugium so I needed to understand better the impact of what "upward flow" was and when hard plumbing into the sump and refugium and how I could make sure I account for this.
<<No worries>>
The part about plumbing into the sump won't affect the refugium or "upward flow" but I figured since I was asking I would ask about that too :)
Thanks in advance,
Kevin
<<Happy to share… Once you are ready to hard-plumb, do feel free to write back to discuss if you like. Regards, EricR>>

Tank Configuration, sump/and fuge chamber pb des.  12/4/07
Hello Again Professors,
<Hello, only a few of us are, not me.>
I’m in the middle of setting up my 125 gallon (72inch long) tank. I’m trying to figure out some of the plumbing aspects and want to know what you think is best. My tank is an AGA with two Megaflow chambers. I have a 46 gallon Oceanic Sump and implementing a 15 gallon refugium. I was wondering if I should use one chamber solely for the intake/return of the refugium and the other chamber for the intake/return of the sump.........or have one chamber dedicated with the intake to refugium and intake to the sump, while the other Megaflow chamber would have another intake to the sump and the return from the sump. The return of the refugium would go to a side bulkhead in the sump where it would bypass the bio-balls but be filtered by the mechanical and chemical areas of the sump.? Which setup do you think is better for my future livestock. Thank you so much.
<If I understand you correctly you have two chambers in your sump and an external refugium? Consider one overflow line feeding the sump and the other one feeding the refugium with both overflowing into a common return chamber. Saves you use of a pump. I would skip filtering the refugium return through the mechanical/chemical media to allow any pods from the refugium back into your main tank. If this is a reef tank or a FOWLR with a good bit of rock, I would not use the bioballs. Welcome, hope this helps, Scott V.>
 

Same level refugium 11/5/07 Hello Bob and crew, Thanks for all you do, I feel I have found a real treasure on the internet. <Thank you Jesse, Scott V. here.> The clowns seem to be settling into the new tank, although still not eating what we throw at them; they seem to be finding a lot of small crustaceans to eat. I am now going to add a refugium and it brings up a few questions that I can’t find answers for even after hours of reading. First off maybe I should explain what I have: 60 gallon reef tank that is 2 months old now 62 pounds LR getting beautifully purple on much of the rock, although some green too 2 inch crushed coral (I wish I would have done sand). Should I remove some down to just one inch or less? <I would take it down to ½” or even remove it entirely.> 1 power filter hanging on the back for carbon 1 Bak Pak 2R+ protein skimmer 1 heater (the tank stays very near 77 degrees F) 1 Power Sweep 214 1 Penguin powerhead 1140 Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates 0. Phosphate test kit is on the way. Stock so far: 2 Ocellaris Clowns, 2 skunk cleaner shrimp, 15 snails, 15 hermit crabs, 12 different tiny corals, some feather dusters (came on rock and I fear for their well being in our new tank) <More than good for a cleanup crew.> Things seem to be going well but there is a lot I wish I would have done differently. I really wish I had found your site before I started this endeavor. While I was writing my girlfriend pointed out some red spots on the crushed coral (red algae?) <Likely diatoms or Cyanobacteria.> Stuff I have to set up refugium: Used 20 gallon tank with light, filter and heater 40 pounds of oolitic live sand 20 pounds of fine Tahitian moon black sand (had on hand) 12 pounds of live rock 1 Maxi-Jet 600 powerhead Some ½ inch tubing I am planning on setting up this used tank and then letting it cycle before adding macro algae. So now to the questions: I am planning on making the tanks level on top, or should one be slightly higher? Should I use two or three tubes for return and do they need a screen? <One tank will need to be lower than the other. The higher one will need and overflow either drilled through it or added (a siphon type overflow, not my recommendation though). The lower tank will then need to pump into the higher tank, water will then flow back into the lower tank via the overflow. A screen or box can be used to keep things where they belong. I prefer a box, it is less prone to clogging.> I am going to use the fine black sand to get the sand bed to at least 4 inches deep, hopefully. Is this a good plan? <This will be fine.> I am planning on using spaghetti algae in the refugium. Should I put this extra live rock in the main tank or refugium? Do I need to support the live rock on PVC? <You can put the extra rock where you want, I always put some in my refugium. You will read differing opinions on supporting the rock above the sand. You can if you want, no harm.> I am planning on using no dividers and just pumping with the power head from the main tank to one side of the refugium and then letting the water flow back from the other side. Sound good? <You will need an overflow in one tank or in both with a common sump. Without an overflow(S) there will be no way to keep one tank from flooding.> For now, all I can afford to use is the stock light. Should I use the heater and filter (extra carbon or phosphorus pad and added flow) that came with the used tank after I connect it to the main system? <You can use the heater if you need the extra heating capacity. The filter can be used also, but will be more to maintain and unnecessary if you have sufficient filtration already.> Could I add a mandarin goby to this system after it is all set up? Should I wait a year? Or never? <No, not in this system. It is just too small to support one long term.> Thank you for all your help. Some of these questions I think I know the answer to but am double checking and some I just don’t know. The LFS is helpful, but not near as knowledgeable as you. Also they suggested crushed coral when I wanted to use sand for my main. Thank you, thank you, thank you, Jesse <You are welcome, good luck, Scott V.> Re: Same level refugium 11/6/07 Hello again, Thanks for the quick response. <You’re welcome.> I'm going to take some of the crushed coral out of the main tank. I have read some say don't mix substrates and I have also been told to put some crushed coral on top of the fine sand. Should I put any of this crushed coral into the refugium? <You can mix substrates just fine, although I would still leave out the crushed coral (in the refugium too).> About the over flow box. Are you saying that I need an over flow box and a volume of space for water to flow incase of a power outage, just like a sump? <Yes, the lower of the two tanks would function as the sump in the event of a power outage, so you would need extra volume in that tank. The only way to have them the same level (reliably) on top would to have them both drilled and either sharing a common sump or connected to each other, in which case the tank being pumped into will overflow back into the tank being pumped out of. > I had imagined that if they were equal level nothing would happen if the power went out. Both tanks would equalize. So all I would have to worry about was if the siphon got plugged or stopped. In that case about 5-10 gallons of water would spill and I could make a catch for that amount. Is this a bad idea? Thanks, Jesse <Relying on siphons is just not a good idea. You will have constantly fluctuating water levels as the siphon equilibrates the tanks and then slows down and does not start moving water again until there is enough of a difference in water levels (assuming the siphon has not been broken). It is just immensely more reliable to use a simple gravity fed overflow(s) here. Even overflows on the market that rely on siphons require either one tank be lower or they share a common sump. I hope this helps, Scott V.> Same level refugium, additional water tests 11/6/07 Hello again, I'm still waiting on a response from you but I thought I would add some new information I just acquired. <Hello again Jesse, I just got to my computer.> Water quality- PH-8.2 to 8.4 Ammonia-0 Nitrite-0 Nitrate-close to zero Phosphate-close to zero Silica-less then .25 KH- very low and I'm going to get that fixed today Calcium-420 Thanks again, Jesse <All your numbers look good, assuming you are remedying the KH reading. Adding the refugium will only help. Have fun with it, Scott V.>

Refugium Setup/Overflow Prevention – 10/06/07 Hello WWM Crew, <<Hiya Jackie>> I am interested in adding two refugiums to my current setup (diagram attached). <<I can’t get this to open>> Here are my questions. <<Okay>> Keeping in mind that I don't have a creative bone in my body...is it a good idea to use a siphon overflow to get my main tank water to the refugium? <<Though not the “best”…these devices are used by many hobbyists…just be aware of their shortcomings (tendency to lose siphon)…and perhaps utilize “two units” for an added margin of safety>> Also, how do I connect my refugium to my sump? <<It is best to drill throughputs/install bulkheads and position the refugium to “gravity feed” in to the pump chamber of the sump>> Do I need a pump and bulkheads? <<No pump…trying to equalize/balance a pump in the refugium with the return pump in the sump will only end in disaster>> Should I be concerned about overflow, in the event of a power outage, with this setup? <<This is a serious consideration… You will need to configure plumbing components such that all transient water flow is contained>> If so, how can I prevent an overflow? <<You will need to adjust “running” water levels in the sump and refugium, and position the depth of the overflows such that, by the time the water drains down enough to break the siphon in the overflows, the sump and refugium had enough “empty” space to contain the transient volume. Much to be related here…please do start reading here and continue among the links at the top of the page (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm).>> I am getting an AQUA Fuge PS2 hang-on refugium to house copepods, and I will use the below tank refugium for Chaetomorpha. <<Excellent…and be aware this excellent matrix will to house copepods…and more!>> What is your opinion of the Aqua Fuge? <<Is okay for a small hang-on…>> Is the pump that comes with it sufficient, or would you suggest upgrading? <<I would just use the pump supplied for now>> I know little to nothing about bulkheads, baffles, etc...any suggestions you can offer will be greatly appreciated. <<Do start reading where I have indicated>> My goal is to reduce Nitrates and Red Slime Algae, as well as provide a natural food source for my tank inhabitants. <<All good reasons/uses of a refugium>> Thanks, Jackie <<Please read through our marine plumbing material and let me know if I can be of further assistance. EricR>> Re: Refugium Setup/Overflow Prevention - 10/09/07 Hi Rick, <<Hi Jackie...and...it’s Eric, actually (no “Rick” here [grin])>> Thanks for the information. <<Happy to share>> I wanted you to see my rudimentary diagram. <<Ah yes, thank you...it opened for me this time...and seeing this will help me to better help you>> From the info you provided I need to drill a whole in my sump (plastic) & refugium (acrylic) to install the bulkheads. <<Not exactly... I would drill and install a couple 1.5” bulkheads a couple inches down from the top of the refugium and then elevate the refugium just enough (if necessary) to allow it to gravity drain in to (going over the “top”) of the sump>> After the bulkheads are installed, what should I use to connect the sump to the refugium? <<A length of PVC pipe extending from the refugium bulkhead and over the top rim of the sump, with a 90-degree ell on the end, will suffice for the configuration I just outlined>> Keeping in mind the bulkhead on the refugium will be higher than the bulkhead on the sump (for purposes of the gravity feed). <<Indeed...but no need to drill the sump/complicate the installation any further...just extend the drains from the refugium over the top of the sump>> Also, when purchasing the CPR Fuge, would you recommend the one with or without the skimmer? <<Without... A good skimmer will pay huge dividends versus the high initial investment...I very much suggest you look at the quality offerings of Aqua-C and Euro Reef...the latter being my current fave>> My sump does not have any baffles, and my setup is such that I can't move the skimmer to the left side of the sump. <<No worries...simply use a long enough piece of pipe from the refugium bulkheads to reach the pump chamber at the other end>> I have one corner overflow. Thanks, Jackie <<Quite welcome...and do let me know if I need to clarify further. Eric Russell>>

Refugium Installation…Avoiding Biota Loss To The Skimmer – 09/30/07
Dear Wet Web Media Crew,
<<Hello Eric>>
I have been reading your website for a few years now and it has provided me with all the information I have needed to set up and maintain my first reef aquarium!
<<Excellent!>>
Thanks so much for all of your hard work.
<<We’re all pleased to be a party to your success>>
My question is regarding plumbing a refugium.
<<Okay>>
I recently purchased a 20 gallon tank to be added as a refugium to my 72 gallon aquarium.
<<An always worthwhile venture>>
I brought the tank to a gentleman who owns a LFS to be drilled, but upon arriving I noticed he was getting rid of a 90 gallon tank predrilled for the same price as the cost of the 20 gallon plus the drilling.
<<Sweet>>
So naturally I decided to buy the 90 and return the 20.
<<Naturally [grin]>>
The problem is that the only way I can conceptualize the plumbing is to add a submersible pump in the sump and have the fuge overflow back into the sump to be returned to the main tank.
<<Yep…and is how mine is plumbed>>
I am concerned that if I allow the water to be delivered into the sump the various life forms will be destroyed by the EuroReef skimmer.
<<Not an invalid concern… Arrange the design such that the refugium spills back directly in to the “pump chamber” of the sump, thus avoiding the skimmer>>
The sump is somewhat small, so I am guessing some, if not all of the water will be sucked into the skimmer.
<<Mmm…that depends on the design/configuration of the sump…whether or not the skimmer is compartmentalized distal from the return pump>>
I have read contradictory information regarding the damage caused by pumps; any definitive information would be greatly appreciated.
<<The return pump will cause “some” damage to biota, but most will pass through just fine…and even those damaged organisms will still be consumed/provide benefit to the system>>
The refugium will either contain a DSB and Chaetomorpha or will be a sea grass type display.
Thanks in advance,
Eric
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Flow Rate (gph) vs. Pumping Height (Feet) = Refugium trouble, Combining A Refugium Within A Sump...How Do I Regulate Flow? – 08/15/07
Crew or anybody for that concern, help please.
<<How can I be of service?>>
Hello again,
<<Greetings>>
So it's been awhile since I lost my 125 reef.
<<Uh-oh>>
Yes the seal let go.
<<Mmm, I can sympathize...had the bottom seal let go on an 80g reef a few years back>>
I was crushed, we saved every thing but still lost a lot of money and good effort go down the drain.
<<Indeed>>
This happened last April of this year. Now I find myself wanting another reef tank and my soon to be wife wanting to kill me.
<<Fortunately my wife was more empathetic and understanding>>
I'm building a 55g reef with a 125g refugium under the 55g reef tank.
<<Interesting...most folks would go the other way around. But kudos to you, the reef will be all the better for the larger size and capacity of the refugium>>
My cousin is building the hutch-like stand for me as I type and read WWM daily.
<<Cool>>
So here is what I'm trying to figure out, I hope I don't confuse you.
<<Me too! [grin]>>
The Mag-Drive Pump that I have pumps 1200gph and with 7ft head-loss it pumps 810gph.
<<Okay>>
My continuous siphon overflow box does 800gph.
<<Hmm, do “test” this...I think it likely you will find anything more than “half” this rate may become problematic>>
This turns a 55g reef over like 11-12 times per hour( I think).
<<About “14” actually>>
That's way too much pumping through a refugium from what I read.
<<Not necessarily...in my opinion>>
WWM recommends turning over a refugium 2-3 times per hour, correct?
<<That’s more of a “minimum” baseline...there’s no real necessity for it, but also no reason why you can’t use a much higher flow rate as long as the system handles it well>>
I'm really hoping I can combine the sump/refugium all into one tank?
<<You can... This is not “my” preferred method, but many hobbyists do just what you stated>>
If so, how can I slow the water down and combine the two?
<<Ah, well...you will need to “isolate” the refugium within the sump yet allow water to pass from the first chamber to the last/the pump chamber unimpeded. There are two ways you can do this...one is to install baffles as usual to enclose/isolate the refugium but instead of fitting these from wall-to-wall across the width of the sump, you will need to stop short by a couple inches. You will also need to fit a side piece along the open length of the refugium. In doing this you have created a “channel” along one side of the ‘fuge which will allow water to circumvent the refugium and travel directly to the pump chamber. Now all you need do is install a small pump/powerhead in the first chamber of the sump to feed a lower flow-rate to the ‘fuge while letting the higher flow-rate from the tank’ drains travel around to the other end of the sump. Or...rather than “building” the refugium you can simply place a smaller tank (30g/40g) within the sump to achieve the same effect. With both of these methods you can either drill the end-wall to allow water to drain, or as long as the top of the refugium chamber is lower than the top of the sump, you can simply allow the refugium to fill and “well-over” the sides (this latter might actually allow for “better” transfer of planktonic/epiphytic matter>>
If I'm way off track here or if I seem confused it’s from reading others ideas and WWM.
<<Keep reading/thinking, mate...the understanding will come>>
I'm more “you show me” or a “hands on” type of guy so that's why I'm asking you or someone for some help because I'm really stressing it here over this little 55g reef.
<<No worries...just take a deep breathe, slow down, and take your time>>
I just want it right this time, I can’t keep starting over and over again.
<<Patience is key...keep reading/researching/asking questions...>>
Sorry this was so long and took some time to figure out.
<<Again...no worries>>
Thanks for your time, I appreciate your efforts here at WWM.
Brian, Wisconsin
<<Happy to help, Brian. EricR, South Carolina>>

Sump-thing I would like to try... Refugium Configuration…One Pump Goes In, One Pump Goes Out (Not A Good Plan!) – 07/16/07
Hello, again.
<<Hiya Dan!>>
A sump related question.
<<Ah…one of my specialties…[grin]>>
I just recently bought a Magnum 350 for filtration, I have since been doing a lot of reading and I want to move into a reef tank from a FOWLER.
<<Cool>>
I have asked a couple of questions in the last couple of days (FOWLER to Reef 1 & 2) but I did not find anything like my idea after searching.
<<Oh yes, I believe I fielded an earlier query of yours>>
I was thinking about using the 350 as a pump and chemical filtration (charcoal) <<carbon>> and then running from there to a sump with a protein skimmer, and then some biological filtration such as live sand and rock and Chaetomorpha, then setting up a secondary pump to return the water.
<<I afraid this is NOT a viable configuration>>
Would this be a reasonable way to do a sump?
<<Honestly, no… It is just not possible to balance incoming and outgoing pumps…you WILL end up with “water on the floor” my friend>>
Since I just bought the Magnum, I really don't want to have to discard it this soon, plus I like the ease of use and power of it.
<<No need to discard the canister filter, mate…you have a couple options here. I believe in your earlier exchange you mentioned you were looking at a “hang-on” refugium…if this is the case, the Magnum filter can be employed to pull water from the display and then return it to the refugium which then gravity-drains back in to the display. If you have a different plan, do get back to me with the details and I’ll be happy to help you work it out>>
Getting creative and more knowledgeable, Dan
<<Be chatting. EricR>>

Re: Refugium Configuration…One Pump Goes In, One Pump Goes Out (Not A Good Plan!) – 07/17/07
Eric,
<<Dan>>
Thanks again for your quick and knowledgeable answer.
<<I hope it helped>>
I was moving past the hang-on idea since it seemed from your earlier response that it would not be the best idea.,
<<Much better to utilize a larger vessel if/when possible>>
so I was trying to be creative with the equipment I already have.
<<Understood, and there’s no reason you can’t still utilize the canister filter...I really do like these devices for chemical filtration as you mentioned you had planned. Since you won’t be using a hang-on style refugium now I will assume for the moment you will be providing a gravity feed/drain from the display to the sump/refugium. You can utilize the canister filter for chemical filtration and as the return pump (ok), or you can use a separate return pump and utilize the canister filter on the sump side solely for chemical filtration (better). And now let me complicate things for you a bit more... If you have the space for two separate vessels, do consider a separate sump AND a refugium. This makes it much easier to tailor the use/function of each>>
I am, looking to not invest a large sum at one time but gradually build my way up.
<<Then get the sump/skimmer/chemical filtration going first and add the refugium when you can (if this is the plan you choose)>>
Thanks for clearing that up for me, I was wondering if the flow would be enough or equal, that clears that up, time to develop a new plan!
<<Indeed...trying to balance two pumps against each other is just not a good idea. Differences in head-pressures along with changing restrictions from bio-film in the plumbing make it impossible to keep the pumps “balanced” to prevent one from overwhelming the other at some point>>
Thanks again, time for more research! Dan
<<Good man! Decide what you want to do and how you want to do it, and when you have more questions...you know where to find me. Eric Russell>>

Reef and Marine System Plumbing/Sump/Refugium Design And Installation...Where The Heck Are All The Detailed Schematics?! – 05/10/07
Hello folks,
<<Hiya Deb!>>
I've been perusing your FAQs but haven't found an answer to my question, so I thought I drop you a line.
<<Okey –dokey>>
I'm currently having an 850 sq. ft. addition put onto my home, which will be one large room.
<<I see>>
Once this is finished (if ever), I am going to move my current 55g reef tank into it.  At that time, I would like to upgrade to a 220g reef tank and convert my 55g aquarium to a sump/refugium.
<<Cool!>>
This has led to many questions, which I'm going to outline below.
<<Ok>>
-Do you have any input as to whether it would be detrimental for me to run both a sump and a refugium out of the same 55g tank, assuming that the tank is divided properly to accommodate both of these?
<<Is not “detrimental” to do this...but I feel you don’t get “best use” of these systems when combined in the same vessel>>
What are the positives/negatives to a setup such as this?
<<Mmm, negatives would be...the inability to vary flow between the two systems, the proximity of chemical reactors/skimmers/etc to the refugium and their increased likelihood for removing beneficial biota as a result, the promotion of nuisance algae on/in the sump as well as on/in the sump filtration components (filter socks/reactors/skimmer/et al) as a direct result of the close proximity of lighting for a vegetable (macroalgae) refugium.  As for positives...saves space I suppose...>>
If this is problematic, I've got several empty tanks right now (2 55g, 1 20g, 1 10g) that could be used for the refugium.
<<A better approach, in my opinion....and as always, the bigger the better>>
-I would like the refugium portion of my tank to house mangroves with a sand bed.
<<Unless you just “have a thing” for mangroves, I highly suggest utilizing a macroalgae (Chaetomorpha gets my vote for its “user friendliness”) instead as the mangroves grow much slower by comparison and won’t be nearly as efficient with nutrient uptake>>
So, in essence, this will be a "show" tank just as the main tank will be.
<<Oh...I see...well then, perhaps another of those empty tanks could also be added to the system to house the macroalgae?>>
Because of this, I would like to place the 55g tank on the same plane as the 220g tank (bottoms rest on the same level), sitting next to it.
<<Okay...and all the more reason NOT to combine sump and refugium>>
Having said this, what impact will this have on my overflow or water circulation situation?
<<This can be problematic>>
In all of my research, I've found only sumps/refugiums that are located either above or below main tanks.
<<Indeed...to allow the use of gravity drains>>
I am still planning on setting up a sort of ball valve mechanism that stays open when the pump is running but closes when the pump shuts down (i.e. power loss) to prevent back siphoning.
<<What you describe is called a “check-valve”...and is not recommended as these will fail sooner or later (usually when you/no one is around).  I recommend instead you place the vessels and position the throughputs in such a way, as well as adjusting “working” water heights so that all transient water is contained in the lowest vessel when the pumps/power is off>>
But I'm thinking that, as long as the 55g tank is the same height as the 220g, the water will simply level off in the event of a back siphon and the sump/refugium will not overflow.
<<And just how do you plan to plumb these tanks to accomplish this?  Surely not with “siphon U-tubes” to manage the water balance?>>
Does this make sense?
<<Without some detail on how you plan to pull this off is just seems more scary than sensible mate>>
Physics is not my strong suit!
<<Mmm...and fluid-dynamics seem particularly mystifying to many hobbyists>>
As an aside, part of the house renovations include a 16,000W full home generator (we lose power about 10 times a year where I live), so hopefully, the back siphoning issue won't be a problem.
<<This won’t help with a pump failure, but is an excellent addition nonetheless.  Here in South Carolina we also experience frequent power losses (the abundance of squirrels here seem particularly suicidal when it comes to the pole-mounted electric transformers).  I have a small 5500w generator purchased just for my reef display>>
But I'm planning for the worst case scenario, trying to ensure that my livestock stays healthy in the event of any system failure.
<<You need to be particularly mindful of how you plumb this system>>
Finally, when you Google aquarium system design, you get about a hundred different sketches of people's own systems, which is great.
<<Indeed>>
But, I would really like to find some setup examples that are drawn to scale and that label all functioning parts.
<<Hmm...a more narrow keyword search (e.g. – ‘refugium design’ or ‘sump design’) of the Net and perusing “marine/reef” books may turn up a few “standard” designs with the detail you desire>>
When this new system is setup, I would like to hook up a calcium reactor, a tank monitoring system, a top-off system, and various other bells and whistles that will allow me to make sure that the tank environment is always optimal.
<<Ah yes...can make life a bit less hectic for you as well>>
Can you point me to some links that have very accurate and well labeled tank designs containing some of these features?
<<Not with the detail you’re after, no...will take a bit of effort/looking around as mentioned...if such even exists>>
Thanks, as always, for all of your help!
Deb
<<I do want to help Deb...  If you wish...make a decision on whether you will use a combined setup or separate vessels, determine equipment placement, decide what it is you wish to accomplish with this display and how you think you want to plumb the system...write back to me with this info and I will be happy to help you work out the details and advise on any foreseen issues.  Regards, Eric Russell>>

Refugium Installation...No Siphon U-Tubes Please! – 04/26/07
Hello WWM crew,
<<Hello Casey>>
After reading about all of the benefits of a refugium, I just had to have one.
<<Ah yes, a very worthwhile addition>>
My main tank is a 55 gallon, and I created a 10 gallon refugium that sits next to and about 3 inches above my main tank.  The refugium has a 4" sand bed, 10 pounds of live rock, and Chaetomorpha and Cup Caulerpa.
<<I would remove the Caulerpa/keep the Chaetomorpha.  The differing macroalgae will “battle” each other (reducing their benefit at best...negating it altogether at worst), and of the two the Chaetomorpha is the most “user friendly”>>
I intended to just have the Chaetomorpha as I read in the other FAQ's that it's best in small refugiums to stick with 1 type,
<<Mmm...is best in “any” size refugium, in my opinion>>
but there was a small piece of the Caulerpa mixed in when I bought it, and now it's all growing well.
<<So it may appear, but be assured there is a chemical war waging>>
Anyway, the refugium has been running for about 3 weeks, and has lots of amphipods and copepods already.
<<Excellent...do think to add a bit of food (fish flakes/shrimp pellets) a few times a week to help bolster the populations/reduce the likelihood of cannibalism>>
Currently, it is unconnected to my main tank as I used some live rock from the LFS and I am waiting 5-6 weeks so that I don't introduce harmful elements into the main system.
<<Not likely a concern...considering the small amount of rock involved>>
I have 2 more weeks before I'll be connecting the tanks.
<<I see no need to wait...>>
Being that I'm not that handy, I found what seemed like an easy plan (image attached) to connect the two tanks.
<<I see the image...and I suggest you DO NOT do this.  The siphon U-tube “will fail” at some point causing the display to drain/the refugium to overflow.  It is much safer and highly recommended to either place the refugium lower than the display and let water gravity feed to the refugium (the plumbing/refugium static water level will need to be “balanced” to prevent an overflow in the event of a power outage) and then pump water back up to the display...or position the refugium above (even slightly) the display and “drilled/plumbed” to allow water pumped from the display to “gravity drain” back in to the display tank>>
I was planning to use a pump from the main tank to the refugium and a "U" type tube to siphon from the refugium to the main tank as pictured in the image.
<<A very bad idea in my opinion>>
However, it seems that if the siphon were to lose its seal, I'd have a big mess of saltwater all over my carpet.
<<Indeed>>
Is this truly risky or am I over thinking things?
<<Not a risk, is a CERTAINTY...just a matter of time my friend>>
If this is not a feasible and safe plan, what would be the best way to proceed?
<<As previously explained>>
Will I need to drill and attach an overflow fitting?
<<You will, yes>>
Will I need to drain the tank to do this?
<<Not at all...merely drain the water to a couple inches below where you will drill the throughput>>
The algae, amphipods, and copepods are all doing so well that I hope I won't have to disturb them.
<<They will be little bothered>>
Thanks for the wealth of knowledge that's available at WWM.
Casey
<<Is our pleasure to share...and feel free to give me a shout should you need more clarification re the refugium installation.  Eric Russell

Upstream Nano Refugium Plumbing - 04/03/07
Hello crew, from Makati Philippines.
<<Greetings Jason, from Columbia SC>>
I'm setting up a nano 20-gallon, with a 10-gallon refuge, and you guys have been tons of help figuring out which ways to go (and of course reading thru your FAQs).
<<Glad you've found the site of use>>
My refuge will be placed higher than my display tank.  I'll be pushing water via a small 100 gallon external pump up to my refuge bulkhead, and water will gravity overflow out of the other bulkhead into my display tank (just splashing into my display).
<<Sounds fine>>
I'm thinking of making drilling 2, 2-inch holes in my 10 gallon.  I want larger holes because you guys say it will reduce noise.
<<Mmm yes...tis true that larger throughputs generally make plumbing hassles, well, less of a hassle...but with this configuration and considering the very small rate of flow, I think you will do just fine with 1" bulkheads/pipe
Plus, I want less bubbles flowing back to my display.
<<Then you should consider "not" letting the flow from the refugium just "splash" in to the display>>
You think drilling a 2-inch hole is too big?
<<Bigger than you need in this instance, yes>>
I'm thinking of placing the holes such that there is 2-inch gap from the hole-perimeter from the top, and from the side.
<<Ok>>
One hole in the upper right corner, and one hole in the upper left corner. Is this spacing ok?
<<Yes>>
Will a rated 100gall/hr pump be too much flow to my DSB/Chaeto fuge?
<<Nope...twice that would be fine, even desirable>>
You think I'm gonna get some microbubble issues when my water gravity returns and splashes into my tank?
<<I do.  Consider plumbing a drain line from the refugium to the water's surface of the display with a 90-degree ell at the termination to allow the water from the refugium to more gently enter the display tank right at the surface...or even just below>> Should I make some sort of bubble trap backpack to place on my display tank?
<<Sure, if you think you can and it won't detract too much from the appearance of the display...but I think my solution is easier/would be less unsightly>>
I've read on your FAQs that since my water is gravity fed, I shouldn't have any
microbubble issues.
<<Mmm, maybe not so much “micro” bubbles.  But air entrainment and subsequent bubble issues are quite common with gravity drains...in my opinion/experience>>
Hope you guys are doing well where you are!
Jason
<<And to you in kind.  EricR>>

Re: Upstream Nano Refugium Plumbing - 04/04/07
Thanks for your reply guys!
<<Quite welcome>>
I have responses to your responses ...
<<Ok>>
The next step up from a 100gph is a 317 gph.  Considering that I will be using this to push water from my display to my fuge, then gravity fed back into my display, should my bulkheads be larger than 1"? ..say 1.5"?
<<I think the 1" would handle this flow rate fine, but upsizing to the 1.5" will be fine/provide some extra wiggle-room, if you wish to do so>>
For the bulkhead that is being used as a gravity return into my tank - what’s the best method for covering the bulkhead such that Chaeto doesn't go back into my tank - yet the copepods and such can flow to the display safely?
<<A standard bulkhead-screen works well...is what I use on my refugium>>
How many guys are on your worldwide WWM team for answering questions?
<<We have some 20+ guys and gals from a wide range of locals/backgrounds/experiences>>
You've got lots of help! :)
<<Indeed>>
Thanks guys,
Jason
<<Happy to share.  Eric Russell>>

Regulating The Flow Through My Sump/Refugium – 03/09/07
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I just have a question regarding the flow rate through my sump/refugium; I’ve done a lot of reading on WWM but can’t find the answer I’m looking for. (sorry if I’ve missed it).
<<No worries...let’s see if I can help>>
I’m just about to start building my sump tank, the first chamber shall house the skimmer, the second will be the fuge and then the return, the whole sump tank is roughly 25 gallons so the fuge shall hold roughly 13 gallons.  The skimmer shall be gravity fed with a “T” junction before the skimmer taking excess water from the overflow (which can handle 2400 litres per hour) into the refugium.
<<Ok...roughly 630 gph, for us colonials [grins]>>
Obviously the water from the skimmer also will flow into the fuge.
<<Yes>>
After a little research I’ve read that the flow through the refugium should be very low, (max 10x the fuge volume).
<<Depends really...a bare bottom refugium with Chaetomorpha macro-algae would likely be fine...but yes...generally, flow rates are 3-10 times the volume of the vessel>>
The way I have first planned (above) means that all the water coming from the overflow would go through the fuge (2400 litres per hour) which I now know is a lot.  The problem I have is that I want to use as much flow as possible to help with turnover but at the same time keep the flow through the fuge down.
<<I suggest you give it a try and see how it goes>>
I did think to bypass the fuge (from the overflow and skimmer) to the return chamber and “T” off the return pipe with a ball-valve and have some water redirected into the fuge but I still have water from my skimmer going into the fuge which will be around 800 litres an hour.
<<And is a mere 210 gph...should do nicely in my opinion>>
Would this be the best way to achieve this or am I missing something?
<<Not “missing” anything, I think this will be fine>>
I hope that all makes sense.
<<It does>>
Thanks.
Leo
<<Quite welcome, EricR>>

Refugium Flow Rate - 03/06/07
Hello Bob (and WWM crew),
<<WWM Crewmember Eric here...greetings>>
Can you please answer a few questions for me regarding a refugium installation?
<<Be happy to>>
First, what is the ideal flow-rate for a refugium measuring 36x16x18?
<<Is highly variable based on the "specifics" of the methodology employed, as well as subject to opinion...but anywhere from three to ten times the refugium's volume will likely suffice>>
Second, is there a formula or a way to figure out flow-rates on systems that have extended plumbing?
<<Most reliable method is to time in "seconds" how long it takes to fill a container of known volume, divide the time in to 3600 and multiply that number by the volume of the container to reach the flow-rate per-hour>>
And third, can I plumb the water going into the refugium through the chiller first?
<<Sure>>
I use a sump with ETSS 800 Protein Skimmer.  I'm thinking of plumbing from the sump through the chiller to the refugium, and then back into the sump and returning back into the tank.
<<Mmm, best to feed a refugium directly from the tank in my opinion...but your configuration will work>>
Do you think this would work well?
<<Not the "best" in my estimation as stated...but will "work">>
Thanks a lot for all your advice.
Bob Drews
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
<<Happy to share.  Eric Russell...Columbia, SC>>