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FAQs about Caulerpa Algae In/Compatibility/Control
2
Related Articles: Caulerpa Algae, Green Algae, Avoiding
Algae Problems in Marine System,
Algae Control, Marine
Maintenance, Nutrient Control and Export,
Marine Scavengers, Snails,
Hermit Crabs,
Mithrax/Emerald
Green Crabs, Sea Urchins, Blennies,
Algae Filters, Ctenochaetus/Bristle
Mouth Tangs, Zebrasoma/Sailfin Tangs, Skimmers,
Skimmer Selection, Marine
Algae, Coralline
Algae, Green Algae, Brown
Algae, Blue-Green
"Algae"/(Cyanobacteria), Diatoms,
Brown Algae,
Related FAQs: Caulerpa
Compatibility 1, Caulerpa Algae 1, Caulerpa
2, Caulerpa 3,
Caulerpa 4,
Caulerpa 5, Caulerpa Identification,
Caulerpa Behavior,
Caulerpa Selection,
Caulerpa Systems,
Caulerpa Nutrition,
Caulerpa Disease,
Caulerpa
Reproduction/Propagation, Other Green Algae, Refugiums, Green Algae Control 1, Marine Algae ID 1, Marine
Algae ID 2, Marine Algae Control FAQs II,
Marine Algaecide Use, Nutrient
Limitation, Marine Algae Eaters, Culturing
Macro-Algae; Controlling: BGA/Cyano,
Red/Encrusting Algae, Green
Algae, Brown/Diatom Algae,
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Caulerpa out of control 6/16/08
Hi guys and gals,
<Stormy... now I'm singing the refrain... one of my fave "olde" songs...>
I think I made a big mistake. I've a 72g bow that's doing great - everyone
happy.
I started a 28g nano specifically to cultivate pods for the MT, and it is also
now doing well - can see lots of pods.
Problem is, how to get the pods to the MT without introducing calupera?
<Shake and bake... well, something like this... rinse them out into a
Caulerpa-free environment... wait a while (weeks), net out... dump the old
water...>
I introduced it because I thought at a later date I'd add some seahorses and
they could "hitch a ride."
<"Ride, ride, ride, hitchin' a ride..." It's an all-musical WWM response
extravaganza AM!>
So, what fish would you recommend I add to the 29g nano that would happily eat
the calupera but leave the pods alone?
<Mmm... none>
On another note, in my MT, I've some ugly looking "rubbery fingers" that are
growing on my rocks. Any idea what this could be so that I
could research further?
<A pic please... too many poss. Maybe Neomeris?>
Thanks so much in advance, you've helped me many times before.
Enjoy!
Stormy
<"Thank you for the times..." Bob Fenner>
Killing Grape Caulerpa
2/22/08
Hello Crew!
<Kirk>
I was hoping you could help me out with a question about grape Caulerpa. I
picked up some rock from a fellow reefer a couple months ago and it had a few
shoots of the stuff on it. I didn't think too much of it thinking it would just
add to the tank diversity.
<If, it stays w/in controllable concentration/size>
Well after reading some of the horror stories I've decided to get rid of it
since I have noticed it starting to spread quite a bit already. I have pulled
the rocks that had any on them from the display and scrubbed as much off with a
toothbrush as I could but there were a lot of small bunches of it deep in the
recesses on the rock that I couldn't get to. I have put the affected rock in a
darkened area of the sump (after thoroughly rinsing with clean water to prevent
contamination from the scrubbed sections) and was hoping that by depriving the
remaining Caulerpa of light for a period of time that it would die off and the
rock could be placed back in the display without losing the beneficial
non-photosynthetic organisms.
<Takes... a long while... several weeks>
Here is the actual question, there is a little bit of ambient light that gets to
this part of the sump from the refugium but it is very dim and indirect, do I
need to cut off all light completely or should this be enough to starve out the
Caulerpa?
<All a matter of degree...>
I could completely darken this section but it would take a little work. Either
way, how long would you recommend keeping this rock dark to be sure that no
algae remains?
<Months... alternatively, you might consider probable predators... see WWM re>
I got the idea to keep the rock dark from a couple threads in the FAQs but could
not find anything about duration. Any 'light' you could shine on this (sorry
couldn't help myself) would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Kirk
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Killing Grape Caulerpa
2/23/08
Thanks Bob! I don't have any problem with keeping this rock dark for an
extended period of time. I would much rather do that than spend money buying new
rock, curing it and wasting the valuable resource I already have.
<Still need to switch some out, add new every year or so... See WWM re... even a
pitch on a response today on the Dailies, one of EricRs resp.>
As far as predatory species, I love the idea and have used peppermint shrimp for
aiptasia control but all I can find is contradictory info on what will eat this
stuff (even here on the wonderful WetWeb).
<Yes... no guarantee...>
I would rather not risk the lives of sensitive creatures such as lettuce slugs
and sea hares in the hope that they might eat it, and it seems like tangs are a
hit and miss (mostly miss) proposition for eating the grape Caulerpa, so I'll
stick with the dark, I just needed a general idea of the timeline.
Thanks again to you and the crew for all the time and dedication you put into
this great website!
Kirk
<Welcome Kirk. BobF>
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Caulerpa prolifera, bad exp.
related 2/16/08
Hello Crew,
After reading many of the WWM Caulerpa prolifera links and FAQ's I would like to
share my experience with this macroalgae. Tank: 29 gallon - BioWheel filter, 3
powerheads bounced off walls and moved 1-2 times/week, Fluval canister - carbon
and sponge media rotated weekly. Water parmeters test normal - Ammonia 0,
Nitrates always under 10, Salinity 1.023-.025, Temp - 79-80 F. Do not dose -
weekly 4-5 gallon water changes with Instant Ocean salt. Excellent LFS test my
water for other parameters that I do not test for and all are within normal
range. (Because I don't dose, I don't regularly test for Calcium, phosphates,
other trace elements - rely on the water changes and the LFS for tests every 1-2
months). The inhabitants are 2 false percs., a mating pair (4 clutches of eggs
since Dec. '07) and they have been the only 'fish' inhabitants for 2+ years.
Until recently, I had 4 hermit crabs (some 2 years old as well) and an emerald
crab, happily there for almost a year. Tons of purple coralline everywhere,
about 25 lbs live rock, several forms of red macroalgae, 3 thriving colonies of
brown polyps and one lone mushroom (Ricordea) - polyps and mushroom also 2+
years in this tank. Several other types of macros - mostly red and not nuisance
(Identified on your site - thanks!)
Now to the Caulerpa prolifera - On January 2, 2008, I added a handful of the
weed into my tank, along with a properly acclimated cleaner shrimp from my
trusty LFS. The shrimp very sadly died within 48 hours - like it was being
poisoned. I did water changes immediately and did not want to introduce another
shrimp or any other creature. Within 10 days, my emerald crab was MIA and now
presumed deceased. I am down to 2 hermit crabs. Polyps and mushroom are
shriveled up and only partially extend after the water changes. Thankfully, the
clownfish seem fine - still producing a clutch - but not like they were prior to
the introduction of the Caulerpa prolifera.
After reading everything I can find on your site and from the countless hours
monitoring the health of my little tank, I think the Caulerpa is killing my
inverts. Plan to carefully remove all of it today, followed up with even more
rigorous water changes and increased carbon. I'll keep you posted on the
progress. With a 29 gallon tank, the Caulerpa may be too great a risk - simply
not enough water volume to handle any toxins released - even with water changes.
Any thoughts on this matter?
<Is a possibility here for sure>
The recent problems in my tank brings me to another question. I do not have a
protein skimmer because of the low bioload and frequent water changes and
because the original inhabitants have been thriving for so long.
<Mmm, would help>
However, recent events have changed my mind - scared me, really and I'm going to
purchase an HOB/HOT skimmer. Choices are the Tunze Nano or Aqua C Remora Nano
(rated for 25 gallons). There are many reviews on your site - any personal
preferences?
<Both are excellent here>
Do you think the Aqua C Nano is sufficient?
<Yes, likely so>
Is the Aqua C Pre-bubble box required?
<Might be... try it w/o and see>
(I don't plan to add anything else except 2-3 hermits and a cleaner shrimp if
and when the polyps unfurl/things get healthy again) Thanks for this site and
all your work.
Cheers, Kellie McIvor
<It will likely take a few careful vacuuming/water change procedures to rid
yourself of the Caulerpa... but I'd proceed. I do encourage you to skim out the
weedy bits, turf them into your garden and not down the sanitary sewer... if
yours discharges more/less directly to the sea... as this noxious weed can be
too-easily transplanted in this fashion. Bob Fenner>
Re: Caulerpa
prolifera 2/17/08
Hi Crew,
<Kellie>
Thanks so much, Dr. Fenner.
<Just Bob, please. I have no doctorate>
Here's a quick follow up to the Caulerpa situation. It's been 24 hours
since removal of Caulerpa and water change plus carbon. So far a few of
the polyps have opened up a little bit - tentacles unfurled but not at
full 'blast' - more than they have in past few weeks. I take this as a
positive sign and will continue with aggressive water changes.
<Good>
Skimmer should be here in a few weeks so hopefully this is the beginning
of the end of this Caulerpa drama. A cautionary tale for small tanks,
perhaps. Will keep you posted of the changes over the next few weeks if
you are interested. Don't want to burden an already swamped site but
this might be of interest to those with similar issues.
<Thank you for your input, resolve to share>
Also, as someone who lives 2 blocks from the Atlantic Ocean, I really
appreciate the warnings this site gives about proper disposal of used
water/algae/general tank gunk. Although I cannot fathom how the
creatures live in such cold waters. Amazing world, eh?
<Ah, yes; quite a planet>
This site and your book have been real lifesaver. Thanks for the reply
and all the Crew's hard work and patience.
Cheers, Kellie
<And to you. BobF>
Re: Caulerpa
prolifera control, Aqua-C... 03/14/2008
Hello Crew,
<Kellie!>
Another quick up-date on my 29 gallon tank. Happy to report that the
frequent water changes and the addition of an Aqua-C Remora skimmer have
made all the difference in the world.
<Yay!>
Polyps have never looked better - beautiful colour, fully extended and
the lone Ricordea mushroom is huge now.
The skimmer has been pulling incredible gunk every day. Also added a
Chem-pure filter bag in my canister filter (with floss) and removed the
Bio-wheel. The Caulerpa pro. pushed my tank to the edge but it was
obviously not as healthy as I thought to begin with. I don't think my
ramped-up water changes alone would have saved my tank from crashing.
Skimmer has made all the difference. I resisted a skimmer for 2 years
because I felt my weekly 20% water changes and very low bio-load did the
trick. I was so wrong! All marine tanks need skimmers, especially
smaller tanks! (Converts preach the loudest.) Thanks for your advice and
expertise.
Cheers, Kellie
<Won't argue... Cheers, BobF> |
Re: Caulerpa control in a
46gal tank 1/6/2008
Dear Crew:
<Ronde>
Thank you for your reply and suggested reading, it has helped quite a bit.
I have also read the SCCAT recommendations as well from the link on your site.
If I were to do as they state and freeze the rock for 24 hours after removing
the algae (supposed to freeze it as well for 24 hours before putting in garbage
as well) what do I need to do prior to putting the now frozen rock
back into my system?
<Mmm, defrost, rinse...>
Will I have to recure it?
<Possibly>
I assume after 24 hours most of the life in the rock will be dead. As I have
many pieces of rock should I remove them all at once or stagger the removal and
risk recontamination of the rock?
<All have to be processed simultaneously to remove the spores... and even then,
there is still a very good chance that some material will remain to re-start
all. Bob Fenner>
Ronde
Feather algae
will it be a nuisance? 10/25/07
Yes. Hey Everyone!
<Hi Ryan, Mich here.>
Been a while since I asked a question so here goes! I recently moved,
and in the process of moving, the bottom of my aquarium broke out,
<YIKES!>
and so bought a much larger aquarium (33 to a 90)
<So not all bad! Heehee!>
Anyway, while the new tank was cycling my corals were being babysat in
my father-in-laws reef. I recently brought a few of my corals home and
on a mushroom rock was a type of feather algae. I'll include a picture
as I'm unsure of the species.
<Looks like Caulerpa taxifolia.>
Will it be a nuisance?
<Yes.>
It seems to grow fairly fast,
<Yes it does.>
and if I need to get rid of it, will anything eat it,
<Some tangs, if hungry enough.>
as opposed to picking it off?
My advice: Start picking! And try to remove in as large and intact of
pieces as possible to avoid further spreading.>
My father-in-laws tank is quite grown over with the stuff.
<I'm not surprised. I just had a discussion about this tonight with
ScottF. This stuff is way too easy to lose control over IMO. Once it
gets into the display it can be a real pain to eliminate. I would be
diligent with its' removal.>
Any info would be much appreciated!<More info here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caulerparepro.htmhttp://www.wetwebmedia.com/caulerpacomp.htmGood
luck!
Mich> ~Cheers!
Ryan
I am asking again. Will you PLEASE
put something else in this box. I don't even want to refer people to
this page.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caulerpaalg.htm
Caulerpa taxifolia, one of the best species of the best genus of algae
for marine aquarium use.
How about something like this for an alternative:
Caulerpa taxifolia, Excellent for nutrient export but not without
problems.
OR
Caulerpa taxifolia, Excellent for nutrient export but not problem free.
OR
Caulerpa taxifolia, Excellent for nutrient export but can create it's
own set of problems.
This stuff is a PITA IMO. I have gotten it into the main display and
what a headache! At least give people a warning... not that half will
read it anyway but surely there will be some who do!
Thanks,
Michelle
<Have no time... Will post this. B> |
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C. taxifolia, hysteria test – 07/08/07
Hi there,
I was referred to your site regarding C. taxifolia.
<Okay...>
You state that it is possibly the best for home aquarium use. It possibly is,
but, it is the most invasive plant in the world, it is outlawed in many
countries because of its horrific reproduction and its ability to escape and
enter waterways and destroy them.
<... along with?>
A 1mm piece that escape will cause wide spread disaster.
<Call in the government... they'll save you... Not>
Many people use your site, and as I have looked at it I agree it is most
informative, I ask of you to do a little research on taxifolia and possibly warn
people against its use rather than its use.
It is truly an environmental disaster waiting to happen.
Carpe diem
<Seize the carp?>
Cheers, David
<Release nothing to the wild... RMF>
Re: C. taxifolia 7/10/07
Sounds like you really don't care.
Means sieze the moment.
<Nihil agis, nihil moliris, nihil cogitas, quod non ego non modo audiam,
sed etiam videam planeque sentiam.... Don't stay
ignorant your whole life. B>
Carpe diem
Cheers, David
Re: C. taxifolia– 7/10/07
I don't understand, I am a commercial aquaculturist, and let you know of
what I and most countries around the world to be a huge threat, and yet you
resolve to sarcasm.
<Mmm, the better part of valor?>
Have a look at what happened to West Lakes in South Australia, and many other
places around the world, and then tell me that your site promoting taxifolia is
correct.
Carpe diem
Cheers, David
<I have an advanced degree in fisheries... and am well-aware of the threat...
The family is banned in our State (California)... we/WWM run a public service
announcement, have links to agencies that warn folks re release... And I do
apologize if ALL I'm coming off is as sarcastic... I would like to begin again
as it were, and posit that humans are the greatest scourge on this planet...
that their numbers and distribution should be severely curtailed... that they
not be allowed to reproduce willy nilly, out of hand... After all, it's not the
Caulerpaceans that are "getting around" but the human vectors responsible. Big
government and apathetic, hysteria/faith/dogma driven populaces are much more of
a threat to the environment... Let's see, what to finish up with this time...?
I call on you to not have children. BobF>
Re: C. taxifolia– 7/10/07
Ok Bob, you win, I try for learned discussion, you go for sarcasm.
Sweet, be well.
<Ubi dubi ex flagellatum... Where in doubt, I whip it out... It's a free for
all. TedN>
Carpe diem
Cheers, David
Re: C. taxifolia– 7/10/07
Carpe diem
Cheers, David
<Duke, duke, duke, duke of earl, duke, duke, duke of earl... (words from Idi
Amin as he's leaving the gang plank... "Let's see, cut your head off at
noon"...) duke of earl... As I go through this world, no one can touch the duke
of earl... and you, you are my girl... and I... oh my... Oh my..... Ooooh oohh,
oh oh... >
Caulerpa... keep it under control
6/23/07
Hello Crew,
I have a small (55g) marine (FOWLR) tank with a fairly heavy bio load and ever
since we set it up we've had a very heavy forest of Caulerpa growing in one end
of the tank. The growth was so lush we often had to cultivate it to keep it from
taking over the tank.
<Good practice... keep it regularly pruned>
5 weeks ago I added a BioBak skimmer and a separate Maxi-flow power head, just
to increase circulation. Coincident to this the Caulerpa started to die off by
breaking into small, 1 inch pieces that drifted around the tank until we scooped
them out.
<Good, scoop it out, pinch it off till there are no whitish, breaking pieces.>
The power head corrected a dead spot in circulation where the Caulerpa centered,
so my question is which is more likely: The current disturbed the plant -- or
the skimmer took the plant's nutrients from the water? Or .. a third option?
Thank You,
Allen
<These and the fact that the Caulerpa may be poisoning itself with a sort of
bio-feedback metabolite reaction. Bob Fenner>
Re: Caulerpa 6/24/07
Thank you for the response, but this may be one of those cases where we are
looking at the same thing from different angles.
I liked the Caulerpa and want it back.
<Ahh, I see... and apologize for my usual brevity... it is my desire to be
understood... I do understand this now... and my response is still the same...
Akin to your suggestion that an influence here could be (and is likely) nutrient
limitation, the cutting back of this population will go a long way to ensure its
survival in this setting>
I didn't intend for two things I did for the benefit of one part of the
bio-cycle to turn around and damage another part of that cycle.
If I caused this, then the correction is to reach a balance of sorts: I can
reposition the power head, leaving a smaller dead sport or I can cut back on the
skimming in order to leave more dissolved organics for the Caulerpa. BUT ... I
don't know if either of those is most likely to be the problem and I'm not sure
how I could combat the plant poisoning itself. Maybe what I should be asking is
if there is an FAQ on cultivating Caulerpa rather than removing it?
Thanks again,
Allen
<Well-stated... I would encourage you to move part of the Caulerpa to
another/isolated system for possible recolonization should you lose the
current/resident one... and STILL to reduce the overall biomass, by about a half
here. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Getting rid of Caulerpa, elbow grease –
06/16/07
Hello Crew, <Hi.> I have an algae problem, but it's a bit different than
in most of the FAQ's I'm reading. I actually have Caulerpa macroalgae (I
think it is Caulerpa prolifera) taking over my reef tank. It is a 29 BioCube
system with a skimmer and a phosphate filter pad, activated carbon, bicolor
blenny, etc. etc. all of the things recommended for limited algae growth,
but this stuff is taking over. I have to remove it by hand once a week
<That's some great export of nitrates. Exactly what you want to have in a
sump/refugium.>, and can't get it all off of the rock because wearing gloves
sort of limits your dexterity. I am a light feeder, I have 3 small Chromis,
1 sixline wrasse and the bicolor and I give a small pinch of food morning
and evening, and it is all gone in under a minute. The actinic lights are on
about 9 hours a day and the main lights for about 5-6. Phosphate and nitrate
are low. Any suggestions for getting rid of this friend-turned-foe?
<While there are a few animals that eat Caulerpa if alternative food is not
available, removing it mechanically is the easiest solution here, because
your system is not too big. If you have problems wearing gloves, use a pair
of tweezers or tongs. Remove any new growing pieces as soon as you see them.
In my experience many macroalgae strangely dislike too much MH light, but I
do not want to generalize that. Also see
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caulerpaalg.htm and the linked FAQs. Cheers,
Marco.>
Aiptasia Control, Caulerpa 2/14/07
Dear Crew
<Brenda here>
I recently purchased some Caulerpa attached to a small piece of live rock
which I placed into my new refugium. After a little while I noticed that the
live rock is covered in Aiptasia. So my question: should I try to combat the
Aiptasia by adding some hermit crabs, or would it be better to try and
detach the Caulerpa and chuck the rock into the bin? I'm not sure if this is
possible since the Caulerpa is very fragile (the bubble variety).
<If you decide to remove the rock, it can always be added later as “dead”
rock. It will take some time before it becomes live rock again, but at
least it’s not a total waste. As far as which method is best to remove
Aiptasia, it seems the jury is still out on this. Some hobbyists have luck
with one method where others have had no luck. Here is more information on
Aiptasia control:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/Aiptasia/aiptasia.htm I
think you will be fine removing the Caulerpa, it should reattach
soon. There is more information here on
Caulerpa: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caulerpafaq2.htm
Thanks!
Dan
<Your welcome. Brenda>
New LR Caulerpa control... pre-emptive strike? Nah... violence is the
last refuge of the incompetent... Yes Georgie-buoy, am talkin' to you
2/13/07
Hello Bob,
First off I would like to tell you that your books have helped
me tremendously over the years, I have grabbed every one I could find! I
recently set up a 90 gallon reef aquarium, 1 week ago to be exact. My tank
has a mix of Marshall Island LR and Tonga Kalani, and Tonga branch rock, and
about a 2" aragonite sand bed that rises to three inches in the rear of
the display.
<Mmmm, you may want to increase... or decrease these depths a bit... Please
see WWM re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm
the linked files above>
The rock was hand picked by myself and put in curing vats for 5 weeks with
heavy circulation, a turn over rate of 14 x an hour and heavy protein
skimming. The display has no trace of ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, or
phosphates and has a turn over rate of about 12 times an hour. Calcium is
at 450, dKH is at 12, aquarium temperature is kept between 78 and 80
degrees F. The lighting system on this 90 gal tank (48 x 18 x 24) is 2 x
250 watt 14 K metal halides that run 8 hrs daily and 2 x 96 watt
power compacts 7100 k that run 12 hrs daily. I also run 4 watts white
moonlighting on this tank every night. The lighting system is fully
automated and the tank for all intents and purpose is running very smooth,
there is quite a bit of life already stirring in it. My big question for
you now that you know most of the info on this aquarium is; On the Marshall
island live rock there are a lot of sprouts of what appear to be Caulerpa
sertularoides, or Caulerpa taxifolia, the only other photo on wet web media
that I saw that resembled what I have is Caulerpa mexicana but I have a
feeling its one of the two previously mentioned.
<Yes... at least not C. mexicana>
I plan on keeping SPS corals in this aquarium and I am worried this
particular algae growth might become a problem. Should it be left alone in
the aquarium to grow and be pruned?
<I'd engage bio-warfare some time hence>
it isn't terrible looking stuff, or should I strike now while it is in its
infancy?
<Nah... not likely to do much good at this point>
Any advice you have on this dilemma would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
for your time.
Brian Crenshaw
<BobF>
Ongoing... sand... Now, Caulerpa, other algae comp. 2/14/07
Bob,
Thank you for responding so quickly.
<Always include prev. corr. pls>
I will do something about that sand bed. I had a couple more questions for
you regarding the same tank and algae. Is there another type of algae that
resembles the structure of feather Caulerpa, perhaps one indigenous to
Marshall island?
<A few...>
You mentioned engaging bio-warfare, using what?
<Chemicals... akin to terrestrial plants... interfering with the
germination, growth of others near, under them...>
I am going to put a large yellow tang in this aquarium, would it be able to
take care of the algae without negative affects?
<Likely to some degree... depends on the species of algae (some are
unpalatable to noxious...) and the particular Yellow Tang... what else it
has to eat...>
I am also putting in 10 Nerite snails, 10 Trochus snails, and 10 blue
leg hermit crabs. I read somewhere that Caulerpa algae is fairly toxic to
the animals that ingest it,
<Some species, varieties... there are such properties in many other algae,
species...>
so I want to make sure that I take care of it before I stock the tank with
animals that might be hurt as a result of nibbling. Right now the algae is
only on one rock in the aquarium, and of course the one rock is my favorite
one! Murphy's law in effect! I am hoping I won't have to remove the rock
entirely from the display, it has a lot of other wonderful "Critters" on
it as well.
Thanks again,
Brian Crenshaw
<I would not be concerned at this juncture. BobF>
Genus name Caulerpa confusing... like this title. Seahorse tank use
12/31/06
I am wondering if I could impose on you to clarify a seemingly endless
argument on the use of Caulerpa prolifera. Often I read about Caulerpa pros and
cons. It seems there are several suggestions that Caulerpa prolifera is great
for a seahorse tank.
<Mmm... remember the ancient Egyptian measure or moderation, "Ma'at"...>
I remember reading that they have a slime that can be problematic to ponies.
<Yes>
I have been setting up a sea horse tank attached to my reef tank. I have
Caulerpa prolifera in my sump and tons and tons of organisms. Can I use the
prolifera in the seahorse tank?
thanks for any info you can offer
Cathy
<I would seek out other algae to use here, OR be careful to keep this species of
Caulerpa trimmed back (weekly) to just a few strands. Bob Fenner>
Re: genus name Caulerpa confusing 1/2/07
Sorry
thanks so much but I still do not understand why. There is lots of room for
Caulerpa prolifera of which I have tons and a small bunch of Chaetomorpha of
which I know you prefer. I use the Caulerpa in refugium. Should I actually
remove the bunch?
<Mmm... well... the genus/family has largely fallen out of favor due to its
propensity for rapid growth... and production of allelopathogens... But the
species C. prolifera is one of my faves... is less toxic... A Halimeda species
would be beautiful/similar... and less noxious... I would just keep the Caulerpa
trimmed back myself...>
I would love to read more but can't find the specifics.
thanks for any info you can send.
Cathy
<There's a bunch written about the genus in books... not that much on the Net.
Bob Fenner>
Re: genus name Caulerpa confusing 1/3/07
Thanks I will search out info in the books
Cathy
<Do seek out Hans Baensch Marine Atlas Volume 1 (I believe... or maybe 2)... He
has the most exhaustive presentation there on the Caulerpaceans I have come
across. Can be found on Amazon.com... Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Caulerpa takeover, biological controls 11/21/06
Dear Crew:
<Hey Paul, JustinN here with you>
I want to introduce an herbivore in my 75-gallon reef aquarium to
combat an outbreak of Caulerpa racemosa.
<Mmm, I believe this to be one of the Caulerpa sp. that is typically less than
palatable to most herbivores.>
I've heard that a tang or rabbit fish may be my best choice but I am concerned
with the small size of my tank. I may want to introduce a juvenile fish and
remove it before it outgrows my tank.
<Can be done, but its better in my opinion to get something you would prefer to
keep, and could happily live its life in the settings.>
I understand that the juveniles of some species will not graze on Caulerpa. A
Reefkeeping article (http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-05/hcs3/index.php)
states, "filamentous algae will require a juvenile rabbitfish while Caulerpa
species and other tougher, meatier algae will require adults."
- What species of juvenile tang or rabbit fish will graze on Caulerpa?
- What Caulerpa-grazing tang or rabbit fish have the smallest adult size and can
best tolerate a small tank?
Thanks very much,
Paul.
<While your tank is considered the borderline for such Zebrasoma sp. such as
Yellow Tangs, my recommendation would be for a rabbitfish, such as Siganus
vulpinus. Assuming you don't have an overly aggressive set of tankmates, it is
my belief that this fish would make a wonderful addition to your tank, and may
provide the biological control you are looking for. Do note, however, that
manual extraction may continue to be necessary, as there is the possibility that
either species will not consume the Caulerpa. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>
Re: Caulerpa 11/8/06
Hey lads, grape Caulerpa is running rampant in my tank. Short of pruning it
got any recommendations for controlling it? 55 gallon so tangs seem out of the
question. All the best, Chris
<Ya tangs in a 55gallon aren't going to work...pruning seems to be your only
option...or you could lower the nitrates and dissolved organic material (that
may help). good luck, IanB>
Pruning Caulerpa - 10/04/06
I was wondering on my Caulerpa racemosa at what intervals do you recommend
pruning it and how.
<<Hmm...depending on growth rate, every couple weeks to monthly. Caulerpa is a
single-cell organism so you don't want to cut/tear it apart if possible as this
breaks the cell wall and releases toxic chemicals/metabolites. Try "pruning"
the Caulerpa by removing whole strands at a time>>
I understand the dangers with it from your the Reef Invertebrates readings but I
got some from a friend and the benefits thus far by far outweigh the risk.
<<Can be very useful/beneficial if one recognizes/allows for its inherent risks
(Keep lighted 24/7 to preclude a sexual event...take care not to break the cell
walls)>>
However it grows FAST!
<<An indication of excessive organics in your system maybe>>
To prune should I pull it all out of the fuge and cut it?
<<Nope...thread apart and remove individual strands>>
How often?
<<As needed/as it fills the space>>
How much?
<<A third to half the volume>>
Can I from time to time put some on a veggie clip for the tangs for some
variety?
<<Mmm, I wouldn't...possibility for it to become established in the display
system (can be very hard to eradicate). It's also very likely the tangs won't
eat it any way...is not particularly palatable>>
Thanks Jeff
<<Regards, EricR>>
A Tale of Two Dead Naso Tangs - 09/17/06
Hello,
<<Good Morning>>
I am writing you and talking to anyone else I could think off.
<<Wise not to limit yourself to a single source of
information/advice/opinion>>
This past week I lost a pair of Naso tangs.
<<Sorry to hear...>>
I am devastated over this for a number of reasons, but mostly
because I can't find an answer to why they died. Before I ask you
to give some thoughts on what you think might of happened let me
give you as many details and variables I can.
<<Thank you…always helpful>>
The tank is a 350 gallon fish/reef tank. I keep a variety of angels
and tangs, clowns and damsels. There are also inverts like shrimp,
snails and crabs. There are not a lot of corals at this time but
the idea for the tank is to keep a number of corals with larger
variety of fish not usually kept in a reef.
<<I see...and researching re to assure/maintain compatibility I'll
assume...>>
There are a few LPS and SPS corals along with a few soft leathers.
<<Mmm...with "variety of angels"?>>
I do have to be very careful in what corals I choose because of the
types of fish.
<<Ah yes!>>
The larger of the tangs was a Hawaiian Naso the other was a smaller
Red Sea blonde.
<<Hmm...ever considered a "biotope" display?>>
I know typically these species are not kept together but they have
done very well often swimming side by side and staying together at
night. The tank has ample swimming room and the aquascaping is such
it gives the fish room to swim in a big circle.
<<Excellent>>
The tank has been established for 4 years. Only up until last year
I started to get into corals having spent the money to have a
dedicated electrical circuit for the lights and pumps.
<<Reef setups are indeed "power hungry">>
Prior, the power options didn't allow me to have the right
lighting. I now run 3 10K 250watt HQI de's with PC actinics. The
tank gets a weekly water change from RO/DI water and top-off is from
the same unit. I dose manually calcium and dKH supplement as
needed, parameters are checked weekly.
<<Very good>>
The only issue I have which is not serious is slightly elevated
nitrates.
<<...! I don't know your definition of "slightly", but even so,
chronically elevated nitrate can/will have effect on your livestock
(and what about ammonia/nitrite?...these were/are checked as
well?). This may be a clue to the two Naso tang's demise>>
I use a refugium with grape <Caulerpa> and Chaetomorpha macro algae.
<<Mmm, another issue (clue?) here in my opinion. Grape Caulerpa is
very noxious, even toxic to fish (many herbivorous fishes won't eat
it for this reason). Combining it with Chaetomorpha in a refugium
means the alga are constantly waging war (alga compete just as
corals do for space on the reef), releasing chemicals/toxins to
inhibit and/or kill each other. Such constant and powerful chemical
warfare (Alga rates at the top of the list with some of the nastiest
corals for aggression/noxiousness) can't be "good" for a
system. Not to mention the loss of usefulness/processes for having
the algae in the refugium in the first place due to the "energy"
expended on warfare>>
The Chaeto is fed to the tank where the angels and tangs feast.
<<Hmm...wonder the possibility of the Chaetomorpha being "tainted"
from close exposure/battle with the grape Caulerpa...>>
The nitrate levels are elevated, but don't cause any issues with
nuisance algae, the Acropora and Montipora orange cup coral are
growing and doing well so I use that as a measure since the nitrates
don't seem to cause any other problem.
<<I agree it would seem the corals you mention would show
deleterious affects from elevated nitrate before the fish
would...but I'm still very curious as to your actual nitrate
reading(s)>>
I do understand the bio load may be a little high causing the
elevated nitrates, however I go to great lengths to make sure the
water quality and environment stay optimal. Of course the tank has
a large skimmer on it which is cleaned 1-2 times per week.
Ok, with that overview here is what happened over the last few
weeks. About three weeks ago I noticed the RO unit was not
producing any RO for the top-off.
<<Raw RO water for top-off? Not recommended...>>
The unit being in place a little over 6 months I thought it might
just need to be cleaned and didn't need new filters or membrane
replacement.
<<Not likely, no..."should" get a couple to several years out of the
membrane, even with this size tank...life of the filter cartridges
will depend mainly on your source water/how often they are rinsed
clean>>
The water source is well water. After rinsing the filters in tap
water and putting the unit back together it did start to produce
some RO however the TDS was > then 0 and could not produce enough
for a water change.
<<Again... I need specific measurements to really be of much help>>
At this point I called the company to discuss my options.
<<A good move>>
They agreed that the membrane should not have to be replaced but
agreed to send me a filter kit and new membrane anyway. The unit is
a 100gpd.
<<As is mine...>>
I skipped my weekly water change that week waiting for the filters.
<<Um...not seasoning/maturing/buffering your water before "and"
after mixing the salt?>>
I received the filters and they forgot to ship the membrane.
<<Mmm...>>
I waited until that weekend to install the filters. After the
filters were installed, the unit still didn't make RO for my water
change.
<<Strange...perhaps you should remove/gently rinse the
membrane...install a "flush" kit>>
Bottom line, by the time I got RO back online it was almost 3 weeks
without a water change.
<<Shouldn't have been a problem>>
I didn't think this was that critical as I checked params and
everything seemed to be ok.
<<Would agree>>
I started to cut back on feeding slightly which is usually done
twice a day, every other day.
<<I don't agree with this, fish should be fed daily...preferably
multiple small feedings. If feeding daily causes secondary issues
with your tank then reevaluate your maintenance/husbandry
practices/stocking levels...but don't jeopardize the fishes
long-term health by "cutting back" on proper and adequate
nutrition>>
I target feed the fish to make sure everybody gets enough without
over feeding the tank. They get mostly pellets soaked with
Vita-Chem.
<<A good product...and New Life Spectrum pellets I hope!>>
That is supplemented with frozen Mysis and the macro algae.
<<Ah good, variety is key...and the more the better>>
During this 3 week period, I added 2 fish to the tank one of the
fish was a replacement for a small saddle back puffer that jumped
out the tank some time ago,
<<Jumped!...? Was this fish stressed/harassed by other
fish? Perhaps another clue here as well. Could be the puffer was
stressed to the point of releasing toxins (jumped to escape its own
poison?) and the tangs are merely victims of the long-term
affect...and hopefully the "only" victims>>
and the other was a mandarin dragonet. This is my first time
keeping a mandarin but given the size of the tank and amount of pods
I see I thought I would try to
keep one.
<<Sounds reasonable to me as well considering the "mature" nature of
this tank>>
During this time I also took a handful of the spaghetti algae about
baseball size and tossed it in the main tank during the lower
feeding period. Also something I have done many times before. Now
the blur of events I have been going over and over in my mind trying
to figure out what happened. I can't say exactly when during this
period but, I did notice the larger Naso hiding a little bit. He
was still feeding and there were no other signs of problems. I kept
an eye on him and noticed during the last week that he had seemed to
have a sunken stomach, stopped feeding and was staying at the top of
the tank in a vertical position. Shortly after the larger Naso
started to exhibit this behavior I noticed the smaller Naso also
with a sunken stomach.
<<Were these fish treated with a copper-based medication at any
point prior to this? Tangs treated in this manner will sometimes
suffer from loss of digestive microbes in their gut, preventing them
from digesting food/assimilating nutrients. Another thought is the
behavior of these two fish is similar to those afflicted with
internal parasites, though many times such afflicted fish show
absolutely "no interest" in food>>
I began to feed the tank everyday in the morning and later in the
day, both tangs showed interest and slightly picked but were not
near their normally aggressive feeding behavior. Their breathing
also seemed slightly labored. The large Naso was the first to
die, the smaller died yesterday. Neither fish showed any signs of
marks, spots, no physical changes outside of the sunken
stomachs. Before disposing of the smaller tang I lifted the gill
flap and used a bright light to examine the gill. The gill was
bright red and showed nothing abnormal. Both fish had labored
breathing towards the end but again didn't have any other visual
indications.
<<May have been secondary to the stress of/weakening
by malnutrition>>
No other fish in the tank currently show any signs of abnormal
behavior and continue to feed normally. I have done 2 water changes
last week once the RO produced enough water hoping to save a least
one of the tangs.
<<Not likely the issue...and possibly an additional stressor
(bouncing water parameters), especially if the new salt mix is not
allowed to mature/complete its chemical processes before adding to
the tank>>
The smaller did appear to be swimming around better the day before
but refused to eat.
<<Never good>>
As of now I am suspecting the following; The RO unit; is it possible
the filters contaminated the water some how, either the exhausted
filters or the new filters?
<<I'm doubtful of this>>
Did adding the puffer or mandarin bring something in the tank?
<<More of a possibility, yes>>
BTW all my fish come from 2 places that I trust and know. I never
have any problems with their fish or corals.
<<Fortunate>>
Did the puffer release toxins in the water?
<<Possibly>>
The previous saddle back was there for a year and never had any
issues. Is it possible that something was in the macro algae the
tangs ate?
<<Another possibility I think, yes>>
Again, the Nasos eat this algae all the time and can eat a baseball
size amount in a day.
<<Possibly a matter of toxic accumulation>>
Lastly, I dose the tank weekly with only Kent dKH supplement. The
product is added to my sump which is connected to the refugium.
<<If tested/added as needed this should not be a problem>>
I was thinking maybe the macro algae could have contained
concentrated levels of this?
<<I don't think so>>
Other fish ate the algae, but mostly the Nasos.
<<Could be telling>>
Lastly, the tank has Euro-bracing and is open. The stand is over 4
feet high, the tank total height is around 7-8 feet.
<<Cool>>
This was done because of the kids and placement of the tank. It is
of perfect viewing in a standing position.
<<Indeed>>
I thought I'd mention this in the event something got into the tank
that's unknown?
<<Anyone been "cleaning" around the tank?>>
I do find bugs every now and again in the sump that must be
attracted to the lights.
<<Yes>>
The only other thing that I thought of was this past weekend my wife
had some people over to clean the house. I was not around but
always give my wife strict instructions that the cleaners stay away
from the tank. They were new people, so I don't know if something
was introduce through their cleaning?
<<Weren't the tangs displaying symptoms before this?>>
Sorry for the long email,
<<No worries my friend, I appreciate the detailed explanation
(hmm...wonder if I can make an article out of this some how?)>>
<Likely so. RMF>
but I am at my wits end on this and can't begin to explain how I
feel. I have been in the hobby a very long time and have never seen
anything like this before. Please help...
<<Well Patrick, I have been in the hobby more than 30 years myself,
and "have" seen this before. Unfortunately, knowing the exact cause
is usually very difficult without a necropsy of the fish. I do have
some thoughts/theories as I've stated>>
Thanks and regards,
Patrick Mundt
<<My pleasure to assist. Do give thought to separating/choosing a
single macro-algae (my vote goes to the Chaetomorpha) for the
refugium...and do take a look on our site re using RO water for
top-off as well as making/mixing with salt for water
changes. Cheers, Eric Russell>>
Re: A Tale of Two Dead Naso Tangs – 09/18/06
Eric,
<<Patrick>>
Thanks for the response.
<<Quite welcome>>
You do however raise more questions, and also cause me to ask you to
further explain some of your answers : )
<<Certainly>>
To address some of your concerns, the RO water is made with salt a
day before the water change. Nothing is added to the water outside
of Tropic Marin Salt.
<<An excellent salt (would use it myself were it not so expensive),
but, raw/newly mixed saltwater is very irritating to your
livestock...I recommend you make it up far enough in advance to give
it a few days to a week to “mature”>>
The nitrate levels are not 0 but range between 10 - 30 ppm.
<<Too high for the fishes (should be less than 20), and WAY too high
for the corals (should be less than 5)>>
This is tested using only Salifert test kits.
<<A good line of test kits>>
I put the grape Caulerpa in the fuge about 2-3 months ago. Both
types of macro algae have grown much better since adding the
grape? Don't know why.
<<Hmm...likely coincidence...feeding off the source of your high
nitrates>>
I only feed the fish the Chaeto. I do remember having to remove to
grape that was tangled with the Chaeto before feeding that day. The
first puffer I had was a great tank mate, very interesting and
didn't bother anything. Other fish left him alone he never appeared
stressed never saw anyone bothering him. In regards to his jumping
out of the tank, I have moon lights on the tank as well, and it did
appear odd to me to wake up for work and find him on the floor.
<<Indeed...not a fish that comes to mind when you think “jumper”>>
I thought the combination of lights and perhaps him going after
something to eat caused his death.
<<Don’t know...but seems unlikely to me>>
Usually the puffer finds a perch and sets up for the night. To the
medicating the tank; Last year after being begged by a fellow
aquarist I agreed to take a powder blue tang from him that was
harassing his fish. Big mistake!
<<Indeed...a difficult/problematic species...probably best left in
the ocean>>
The fish came with a gift and before it was over wiped out half my
tank.
<<No quarantine mate?>>
As I mentioned before I have 2 very reliable LFS, I have not used a
second tank in years.
<<A ticking time bomb...>>
Anyway, the Odin. or other parasite moved very fast and as a
desperate act I medicated the tank with Malachite Green (I'm sure
this is not spelled right <<corrected>>).
<<Yeeikes! Dangerous stuff...very toxic (must be measured very
carefully)...tends to kill the “good guys”>>
Anyway, one of my LFS sources assured me they have medicated their
show reef tank with this stuff with great success.
<<(sigh)>>
So to answer your question, yes the tank was medicated but this was
a long time ago and the tangs in the tank died from the parasite,
the medication did get rid of the parasite and didn't kill any of
the corals. The feeding of every other day was suggested to me, all
the fish in the tank seem a litter over weight, (I think), even the
2 Nasos were very thick and clean. I do think they should eat every
day, but I think they have gotten used to this.
<< <grin> Would “you” get used to eating every other day?>>
I have had a small passer that has grown into an adult with great
adult colors and has been with me since I started this tank. So what
do you think the downside of this may be?
<<Can only wonder how much “better” the fishes would be with daily
nutrition...>>
Next, having read through your site, I must have missed the RO part,
why not use RO for top off?
<<Raw RO water lacks any buffers/earth elements...these are
pulled/drawn from the tank water to reach equilibrium each time raw
RO is added, creating instability/ a seesaw effect on your water
chemistry>>
I figured the weekly water changes would replace anything the RO is
missing for top off no?
<<Likely it does...but buffering the top-off water to reduce
fluctuations in water chemistry is a better solution and will reduce
the associated stress on your livestock>>
TDS of the RO was approx > then 150.
<<A properly functioning RO membrane should give you a reduction by
a factor of 10 over the reading from your tap>>
Based on what you have said, I think I will remove the grape macro
algae.
<<Super!>>
After this email, I think I am leaning more towards the algae
causing the problems as I know tangs more then other fish have to be
handled with care in regard to diet.
<<Important to al fishes...the more varied the better>>
Please let me know what you suggest for the water change water.
<<I think I have...but if not clear, just give a holler...>>
I am always looking to hear other experienced advice...
<<As am I my friend>>
Thanks, Patrick...
<<Be chatting my friend, Eric Russell>>
Feeding tangs/angels 9/16/06
Hey. I have a quick question about properly feeding tangs and
angels. I have a 55 gallon reef with lots of Caulerpa (three
different types from what I can tell), covering close to 100 lbs of
live rock. I have a flame angel and purple tang that feed off the
rock constantly. Other than providing some protein in their diet
such as Mysis shrimp, do I still need to supplementally feed them?
<Though they don't appear malnourished... I still would...>
I occasionally give them sea veggies dried seaweed. They seem to
like it a lot more than the Caulerpa growing on the rocks, but is it
necessary?
<Might be... Caulerpaceans aren't palatable to all...>
Can they get all their nutritional requirements from the 3 types of
Caulerpa growing in my tank or should I continue feeding them the
dried seaweed as well? Thank you
Jon
<I would. Bob Fenner>
Trying to Carve a Statue with a Toothpick - Maddening Caulerpa Infestation
Hey all,
I am at the point at which I am considering leaving this hobby. I no longer enjoy looking in at my tank, because all I can see is a jungle of
Caulerpa. It kills everything, grows over it. It puts its roots through the mantles of my clams and the flesh of my corals. Just recently I had to snip
away a part of my maxima's mantle to free it of "the root of all evil" (Caulerpa = all evil). I have a 4-5 inch thick layer of the stuff on all of
the rock, the bottom 2" completely white (starved of light). Just last night, by flashlight, I removed 14 pounds of this aquatic demon. I swear, I
am going to start calling people "Caulerpa" as an insult. I hate nothing more than this vile weed. I have set up a series of buckets filled with
fresh water to kill whatever I pull out, to watch it deflate pitifully like a wretched little raisin. This brings me great joy, watching it suffer.
Please, someone, anyone, help me! This is my final plea. There is a slug, Oxynoe
viridis. I need that slug. It lives on a diet of solely Caulerpa racemosa, and is the answer to my numerous prayers. I have tried everything
else short of tearing down the tank. Ripping the damn stuff out is futile. To control it by ripping it out, even aggressively and in such a small tank
as mine, is like trying to use a toothpick to carve a statue.
Once again, I ask you all, HELP! I know that all of you are accomplished aquarists, and hail from various places in the world. Someone receiving this
email, somewhere, might just be able to locate a (or several) Oxynoe viridis.
Find one for me, and I'll send you a bunch of Caulerpa. :-)
Thanks in advance for finding the slug that will save my tank,
Mike Giangrasso - WWM Crewmember
<My advice is to sell this rock to any of a number of people that will actually value it for its plant life
forms/coverage...
And replace with new rock (cure for a couple of weeks). It's good to replace rock periodically as it is... and
this is an effective solution that is more reliable than months of hopeful natural predation/control.
A fast and furious fix ;)
It will give you a chance to stack again/better (as with needing to build the
rockscape away from all walls... do avoid the reefscape touching glass/walls... severe impediment to water flow overall
and all that leads to)
Kindly, Anthony>
<Good advice... and along those same lines... I see Walt Smith took mine and started his "Fiji Gold" (named in honour of the bier there) supplement line.
<VBG> B>
Caulerpa mexicana outbreak 28 March 2005
Hi,
<Howdy!>
Just an update (as requested) about the Caulerpa outbreak which had taken over
my 5' x 2' x 2' for at least two years and was smothering everything, growing
back quicker than I could pull it out. Identified as C. mexicana I think.
Followed your suggestion six months or so ago. Took all the living rock out and
pulled off as much algae as possible, even down to picking bits out with
tweezers. Put the rock back and after two months there was slight re-growth
which failed to take hold. Not a single strand of the d**n stuff now. Thanks
guys.
<Great to hear.>
Substitutes for Caulerpa 7/11/05
Hiya,
After pouring over the FAQs, I've decided against Caulerpa. To me, the
risks seem to outweigh the benefits. I was wondering what else I might be able
to put in the tank I'm setting up for my tang and other veggie-munchers to
munch on that aren't so potentially deleterious.
Thanks your help,
Marianne
<Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgae.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Caulerpa toxicity! 7/9/05
Hey Anthony,
<M. Maddox here today - not as good, but a lot cheaper! ;)>
I need your help!!!
<Mental or physical?>
I just recently added Caulerpa racemosa to my new refugium. I know that you're
not a big advocate of Caulerpa for nutrient control.
<Not at all - and I've seen it take over tanks, smothering everything in the
process>
I've been careful pruning this algae without actually breaking off dead
strands. Unfortunately, when I stepped out last night, the an entire handful of
Caulerpa floated into my pump! When I got home, I found pieces of Caulerpa
everywhere in my main tank. I tested the water and found that the Ammonia level
hit 1ppm from 0.
<Good god. 100% water change time!>
I've NEVER had any other reading than 0 for ammonia. I did a 25% water change
last night and checked my reading several times afterwards and the ammonia level
fell to 0 again.
<I would another, larger water change to be sure - ammonia is BAD>
I also tried to remove every little piece of Caulerpa from my tank. I also
placed a bag of carbon in my sump. Do you think that the shredding of this
algae caused the ammonia spike?
<Yep>
Also, what else can I do to reduce the toxins released from this Algae? More
water changes?
<More/larger water changes, carbon, Poly-Filter (the one by PolyBioMarine)>
I'll carefully test the water for the next few days. I'll also remove the
algae and go for an algae like Chaetomorpha.
<Good idea>
Thanks
Nilesh
<You're welcome - M. Maddox>
What Will Munch Caulerpa? 8/17/05
Hello Bob,
<Actually, Scott F. in tonight!>
First of all, I'd like to say I appreciate your site and am thankful for the
help you've given me in the past. I try doing the research myself as I realize
your time is valuable. That said, I've read the algae control FAQ's and the
Algae ID'S. The algae ID section noted that Razor Caulerpa was very hard to get
rid of and not very palatable to most fish.
<That's correct. Many fishes will not touch it.>
So I read the algae control FAQ'S and didn’t find Razor Caulerpa specific
questions (most just read algae). I did read that lawn mower blennies do a
great job of controlling algae but I wasn’t sure if that applied to razor
Caulerpa.
<Not in my experience. It's simply too tough for these guys. In fact, I think
that the Lawnmower Blenny is highly overrated as an algae eater...A great fish
with a fun personality, but not all that great at consuming algae, IMO.>
So my question is, "What will eat the Razor
Caulerpa?" I have a 55 gallon tank with a hydor20 canister filter and a power
head for water circulation. There is no media in the canister filter. I top my
water off with water from my planted discus tank (remember that question?) and
have some mangroves in lieu of protein skimmers and about 4" on aragonite #00
and 50 lbs of live rock. For lighting, I have two 65 watt 50/50 Power
compacts. I've never had anything die on me except an octopus after about four
months. The water is very clear and everyone seems happy except me because of
Razor Caulerpa, which I fear will overtake my tank. I have about 20 Blue
Mushrooms, a Blue Sponge, 1 large Yellow Gorgonian, Sun Polyps (they’ve released
spores that matured into little Sun Polyps throughout the tank), a small Orange
Starfish covered in what appears to be orange
thorns (not sure what kind it is), a mated pair of False Percula Clowns, a
Mandarin Dragonet, and a Pajama Cardinal. Everyone except the Mandarin (I’ve
seen him eat formula 1 in addition to the pods all over the glass) has been in
the tank for over a year. The only mineral supplementing I do is adding one of
those little white cubes whenever one runs out which is about every two weeks. I
scrape lots of red and green coralline algae of my glass weekly. Back to my
question, what will help with my Razor Caulerpa problem? Any advice is much
appreciated. Thank You.
<Well, short of manual extraction, there are not a ton of fishes that will eat
the stuff. Some Zebrasoma Tangs will do the job, but you need to have a system
that suits the Tang's long term needs. And, Tangs are individuals; some may
never touch any Caulerpa at all! You just cannot be certain. I'm afraid that
manual extraction is the best bet in dealing with this algae.>
p.s. I did have a Moorish Idol die on me, but it wasn't my fault. I casually
told my wife I'd love to get one someday and one day I came home to see a
Moorish idol lying on its side. She bought it for me while I was at work and it
was dead a half hour after I got home. I wanted to yell at her because I’ve
advised her against buying stuff without proper research on my part many times
but her smile at the thought of the wonderful surprise she thought she was
giving me overcame the urge to yell. Still it was very sad to think the Moorish
Idol was pulled from the ocean to die in my tank. I think she learned her
lesson from that (we lucked out on the orange starfish being harmless so far,
that was her surprise also). auughhh
<Well, it is certainly a tragedy that these fishes are available to the
causal
hobbyist, but here intentions were certainly good. I guess we all need to
educate our spouses and significant others on the suitability of some animals
for captive life, and the unsuitability of others. It's a good practice for us,
for the environment, and for the hobby. Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Attack Of The Caulerpa! Reefer
Forced to Take a Hands-off Approach 10/22/05
I'm hoping someone has a solution for what has me ready to abandon my many years of marine aquarium keeping.
<<uh oh...sounds like trouble...>>
The Caulerpa housed in the refugium has migrated to the main tank and is threatening to completely take over everything.
<<Not uncommon...this genus of macroalgae is known for its invasiveness. One of several reasons I prefer Chaetomorpha for refugium use.>>
Unfortunately, I had hand surgery earlier this year and with my hands in casts was unable to stop the progression in time.
<<Ouch! Hope things are getting better.>>
My tank is sixty gallons and I have, live rock, which is being completely taken over, six small to medium fish and a few corals. I think because of the small size of the tank that a fish big enough to eat this
Caulerpa would not fare well, if this is even a possibility.
<<Mmm...maybe>>
Since, my hands are still recuperating does anyone have a solution to this problem?
<<Enlist a friend to help/contact an aquatic service... EricR>>
Grape Caulerpa 11-16-05
Hey Crew,
<<Hello>>
We have some grape Caulerpa growing in our 50 gallon reef. It's growing fast, too!!
<<Always a bad idea to add Caulerpa to a display, unless you want it to look like a planted freshwater aquarium.>>
What can we do to get rid of it? It's real hard to pull it out manually, as it is stuck to the rocks.
<<Pull out as much as you can by hand and find a suitable vegetarian to add to your tank. I never suggest adding a fish to fix a mistake in your tank, but a rabbit fish will do wonders for you.>>
<<And likely be too large for this system, if not immediately, then in
very short order. I suggest using this animal only very short term.
MH>>
Any fish or critters??
50 gallon reef
DSB
100 lb live rock
3 Chromis
1 Clown
1 Pseudochromis fridmani
SPS
Ricordea
Xenia
Emerald Crab
Ca 425
Alk. 9.2
Mg 1350
Phosphate .05
Nitrate...undetectable
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Ronnie NYC
<<TravisM>>
Dude... DUDE! Re: Grape Caulerpa 11-19-05
Hey,
<Hello>
I didn't add it, I am aware that this stuff is crap. It grew on it's own...
<That happens.>
Is a rabbit fish the same as a Foxface?
<Yes>
Thank you for your time Dude.
<<The "Dude"...? MH>>
<No problem.>
Ronnie
<Travis>
A Solution to Caulerpa? 1/30/06
Hi everyone,
<Mike G>
I have a lot of Caulerpa in my tank and I read on your site that the lettuce
nudibranch will take care of that.
<Hmm... not in my experience. I've found that the only way to get rid of the
blasted stuff is to pull it out by hand, 5 minutes a day, day after day after
day. Lettuce Nudibranchs tend to focus on the filamentous Algaes - Caulerpa is
really too tough, I'd think. In any case, none of the several Lettuce
Nudibranchs, Sea Hares, Sea Urchins, Blennies, Snails, or crabs that I heard
were supposed to eat the stuff would actually eat it, in my experience. There is
one species of sea slug - Oxynoe viridis - that will take care of the stuff, but
don't count open finding one any time soon.>
My question is, will it harm anything else in my tank?
<Aside from filamentous Algaes, nope.>
I have: a bubble coral, bubble tip anemone, frog spawn, flaming scallop,
<For the record/readers of this in the FAQs - Not a wise choice. Flame Scallops
are next to impossible to keep alive for an extended period of time. A waste of
money and life to purchase one.>
orange cup coral, rock anemone, crocea clam, orange linckia that has lost 2
legs, (why?)
<Linckia tend to lose their legs when very stressed or diseased/starving. Again,
not a wonderful choice. It could also be the case that something assisted the
star in removing the legs, though I'd say that is much less likely.>
and polyps.
<Zoanthids, I assume?>
Maroon clown, firefish, cleaner shrimp, a scooter blenny, a lot of little white
starfish (I don't know what kind they are)
<Asterina sp. - identifying the exact species would be outstandingly difficult.
Harmless, interesting. Reproduce via fragmentation. No cause for alarm.>
and a lot of snails. Thanks for your help.
<Good luck.>
Kris
<Mike G>
Caulerpa Invasion - 02/18/06
Dear crew member,
<<EricR here>>
I have a nuisance algae in my tank which (after searching this site and
Algaebase) I believe is Caulerpa nummularia - there is also a photo of it on
your site, under the heading Marine Algae ID 9. The email is entitled Algae ID
12/17/05. It is the photo on the bottom left.
<<Yes, I see it.>>
The thing is, there doesn't seem to be an abundance of information about it out
there - or at least, with my amateur research skills, I can't find it.
<<Hmm...a Google search re seems to bring up quite a few "hits"...though only
working through them will determine if there is any useful information.>>
What I do know is that it spreads like bird flu and seems impossible, short of a
tank tear-down, to eradicate.
<<All the Caulerpa species can be very difficult to remove once entrenched.>>
Do you think a tang species might eat it?
<<Maybe...but I think a Foxface would be a better choice.>>
I don't know if it's toxic or not. Any help you can give me would be greatly
appreciated.
<<Have a look here, I think you'll find it of interest: http://reefshow.com/html/modules.php?name=AvantGo&file=print&sid=144
>>
Thanks,
Melinda
<<Regards, EricR>>
Algae identification and removal 02-05-06
Hi,
<Hello>
I have a large amount of what appears to be Caulerpa growing in my tank.
Today while fumbling through your archives I read that some Caulerpa can
give off toxins, which surprised me.
<All algae can actually>
So I looked through all your algae identification pages, and I found
nothing.
<Surprising>
A close match is Caulerpa racemosa, but I don't think that is it.
<Is what this looks like to me>
I will be attaching a picture of it. Just in case it did not go through,
which it may very well not, I will give a quick description. As all
Caulerpa it is based on a vine. On the vine "bubbles" shoot out along
the vine. Unlike Caulerpa racemosa, there are two bubbles on opposite
sides of the vine, then go up 1/2cm the vine and there are two more
"bubbles" on opposite sides of the vine and this continues. So my
questions are what is this? And is it a danger to my tank?
<In large (relative) quantity, possibly>
By the way my yellow tang will not touch it, this leads to my theory of
it being undesirable. If I need to remove it what is the best way to do
it. Remove it all at once?
<If you want>
Or remove it over the period of a few days due to the possibility of
releasing excessive toxins into the water?
<Oh! If you want to remove it entirely, try to take it out all in one
go... along with a water change, use of carbon...>
Sorry for the lengthy question?
<No worries. Bob Fenner>
Thanks much,
Jed |
|
 |
Water Noise vs. Flow Rates - 06/30/06
Hi!
I am looking for a solution to eliminate noise from the overflow.
<<A very common venture>>
I tried everything and I started to believe a silent overflow is a myth.
<<Hee! Indeed! At least at the "higher" flow rates>>
Now there is a way and it would be to dramatically reduce the flow rate.
<<This is what I always advocate. There are other things you can do to
help...such as aspirating the return lines, submerging/adding ells to the
termination ends, etc. ...but reducing flow probably makes the single
largest difference. Few hobbyists (if any) need to push 1500gph or more
through their sump. Much easier to deal with a sub- 1000gph flow rate
here...employing other methods for increased flow in the display as/if
necessary>>
I have reached the point where it's either that or get rid of the sump and
install an external skimmer.
<<Mmm, let's work on quieting that overflow...>>
Right now the skimmer is in the 1st chamber of the sump. There is already
good circulation in the display (15X per hour) from 2 Tunze Stream 6100 with
a multicontroller.
<<Excellent! Reducing flow through the overflow/sump should not be an issue
then>>
I do a 5% weekly water change. Most of the sump (25 gal) is in fact a fuge
for plankton/pod production and macro-algae.
<<All the more reason to keep it>>
Display is 90 gal reef with 150lbs Fiji LR and sugar fine 5"
DSB. In these circumstances do you see any long term problems involved in
having a flow rate from the return pump of only 6X per day instead of 6X per
hour?
<<Mmm...if I understand you, this would equate to just over 20gph (540gph
divided by 24hrs). This is slower than I like, but I think a flow rate of
200gph-300gph would be fine...and easily dealt with/made quiet>>
If I may ask at the same time a bioload question.
<<Sure>>
I am thinking of some change and would like to know if this is too many
fish.
<<Okay>>
Is this a heavy bioload with my set-up, would I be on the edge? :
-2 Ocellaris
-5 to 7 Chromis viridis
-1 clown goby (Gobiodon histrio)
-1 mandarin
-1 Tailspot blenny (genus Ecsenius)
-1 yellow tang (Z. flavescens)
<<This would indeed fill you up. I would like to suggest you forego the
mandarin. This tank isn't really large enough (refugium or not) in my
opinion to be able to provide the necessary nutritional needs for this fish
for the long term. I would also suggest you keep the number of Chromis to
5, until you see what (if any) behavioral/environmental issues develop>>
Lastly, would an Ecsenius blenny (like the Tailspot) be helpful to control
Caulerpa growth in the display?
<<I doubt it...the Combtooth blennies are more "filamentous" algae
feeders. The tang will probably be more useful for this purpose, though
there's no guarantee of that either>>
And what about a tuxedo blue urchin (Mespilia globulus) for that same
purpose?
<<A neat critter...and likely a worthwhile addition...but it too will
probably go for your hair, and most assuredly your coralline, algae
first. You best bet re removal of the Caulerpa is manual extraction. If
you can manual reduce it enough, the tang might be able to keep it in check
for you. I guess you'll know better than to add this to your display next
time, eh! <grin> >>
Many many thanks!
Dominique
<<Quite welcome. Regards, EricR>>
More Caulerpa taking over 8/27/03
Hello again, I have a 215 mixed reef/fish with a 55 gallon refugium. the
refugium has a 4-5 inch sand bed with a plenum and is filled with Caulerpa. I
have read through the FAQ's and decided to try and remove it since due to its
negative potential. Can I pull it out all at once. My tangs would eat it all)
<yes... but do a large water change or two in the ensuing week to dilute any
potential exudations. The first one right after the extraction>
What type of macroalgae do you recommend using.
<Gracilaria or Chaetomorpha are excellent. Ochtodes is quite good too>
I mainly use my refugium for nutrient uptake and somewhat for providing
phytoplankton.
<Hmmm... the phyto is not nearly so helpful as zooplankton for feeding
corals. You will get more zooplankton with Chaetomorpha spaghetti algae>
If you could recommend a few safe types of macroalgae that are readily
available, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Steve
<do check out our coverage on refugiums and macroalgae in our new book Reef
Invertebrates. Quite extensive. Kind regards, Anthony>
Sawblade Caulerpa overload 8/27/03
Dear Sir's : Thanks for you great web site. The information you impart is
invaluable.
<always welcome>
I have a 80 gal reef that is overgrown with Sawblade Caulerpa. I'm upgrading to
a 150 gal tank. Many of my corals are attached to live rock which is invested
with the Caulerpa. I will be removing all rock and placing it in 30 gal can with
no light until the Caulerpa is gone.
<yikes... its not necessary to be so extreme. Caulerpa can be controlled by
limiting nutrients and raising Redox... no need for you to kill other desirable
symbiotic life forms with light deprivation>
The rock with the corals will be picked as clean as possible before being put
into the new tank.
<too laborious... but if you wish>
Is there a way to control the growth of the Caulerpa in the new tank?
<as per above>
Are there species of fish or invertebrates that will eat it and control its
growth?
<not many... Caulerpa are quite noxious. Grazing predators are rather hit or
miss. A few snails eat it well (some Turbo species)... and really one of the
very best creatures is the Diadema urchin. Fishes are unreliable... or at least,
pot luck>
I've read that the Foxface Rabbit fish is a good choice for this.
<they are good algae grazers overall>
I have also been told there are Nudibranchs and Sea Urchins that will also
control the Caulerpa. Is this true and if so which species?
<yes... the latter being excellent, the former moderate - Elysia crispata -
the lettuce nudibranch>
I was planning a deep sandbed sump with Caulerpa for filtration but after
reading your articles I'm not so sure now. What would you suggest?
<Gracilaria or Chaetomorpha instead>
I have used live rock with Caulerpa in my sump in the 80 gal tank with great
success as far as water quality goes. My local fish man suggested the sand bed
for the new tank.
<agreed... many benefits to a DSB>
Thanks for any information, and for your great service to the aquarium
community. Sincerely: Paul Clampitt
<best regards, Anthony>
Caulerpa Suddenly Dying (and Killing Fish) 10/3/03
I recently had a major problem involving the Caulerpa dying in my Ecosystem
mud/Caulerpa filter and I’m hoping you can shed some light on what might have
caused it and how to avoid a similar disaster in the future.
<this is a common problem/story heard... much of it repeated in our archives
at wetwebmedia.com Please do take the time to read the FAQs for information
beyond which I can provide here>
I’ve had my Ecosystem Hang-on 60 filter up and running for 2 months now.
Everything seemed to be going very well. The Caulerpa (grape variety,
C. racemosa I think) was growing nicely and I had removed all of my previous
filtration (canister and skimmer) and relying solely on the Ecosystem filter. The
animals all appeared to be very healthy and I hadn’t suffered any losses for
many months.
<you should know that Caulerpa is not your only option for refugium algae for
vegetable filtration. Chaetomorpha and Gracilaria are far better choices
(stable, efficient, utilitarian, etc.) without all of the baggage associated with
Caulerpa. You should know that Caulerpa can be a blessing or a curse... it is
very efficient (as a vegetable filter medium) yet very precarious and labor
intensive. It is also one of the most noxious/toxic genera of macroalgae to
other desirable life in the tank as you have learned. What's more... C. racemosa
has been demonstrated to be one of the most toxic of an already noxious genus.
Really... do read more on the subject my friend. Perhaps you would enjoy the
comprehensive coverage my good friend Robert Fenner and I provide in our newest
book, "Reef Invertebrates". Truly the most up to date coverage of
refugiums, plants, algae, live sand, etc>
Then suddenly Friday morning (9/19) a problem occurred. My damsel was
belly up dead at the bottom of the tank and my tang and clown were lying on the
bottom breathing very rapidly, looking like they would soon follow the damsel. The
motile inverts (shrimp, crabs, cucumber, and snails) were alive but behaving
strangely. The sessile inverts (hard and soft corals and clam)
appeared normal. I checked the Ecosystem filter and found that all of
the
Caulerpa had shrunk back and was dying or already dead. When I picked
the Caulerpa up it was stringy, limp, and fell apart.
<this colony went "vegetative", either by improper pruning (never
cut or break Caulerpa fronds... but pull entire strands out and thin the colony
only. They are single-celled organisms that sap and leach their contents
(yikes!) if pruned harshly. Otherwise, it may have gone vegetative by lack of
pruning... Caulerpa species have varying life cycles of 3- 6 months... after
which time they reproduce and give up the ghost so to speak. Often results in
minor catastrophes as you have experienced>
The algae growing in the main tank, however, appeared fine, including a
different species of Caulerpa (sawtooth variety, I don't know the species). All
of this happened over night in less than 8 hours as everything appeared normal
the night before.
<yes... a common albeit undesirable occurrence>
I moved the tang and clown to my quarantine tank, and within 10 to 15 minutes
they had perked up and were swimming around. They are now doing fine.
<ahh... good to hear>
I removed the Caulerpa from the Ecosystem filter (it had all died)
and added a bag of carbon to the filter path in case the problem was caused by
some kind of toxin. All of the inverts survived without being moved,
but my Coral Banded Shrimp lost his two large legs. I have no idea what
triggered this event. It had been two weeks since my last water
change. I haven’t changed anything (source of water, type or brand
of additives, type or brands of foods) since long before I changed to the
Ecosystem filter. In fact, all of my top up water, additives and food
for the last month have come out of the same bottles/batches/containers. We
did not have any power outages or any other interruption of the filter pump or
lighting, which has been on 24/7 from the beginning.
What happened here? Why did the Caulerpa die?
<a vegetative event by the Caulerpa. I must admit that I am somewhat of a
critic of Caulerpa because it is too easily promoted and embraced by aquarists
without proper information/education on how to handle it>
What was killing the fish: low oxygen, pH crash (I didn’t think to check this
at the time), toxins released by the Caulerpa? Please help.
<low oxygen from the sudden decomposition of its mass... and some toxins from
the Caulerpa no doubt. I have about 30 pages on my desk regarding experiments
done using toxins extracted from Caulerpa used to kill fishes!>
Sorry for the length of this email but I wanted to be thorough enough for you to
provide me with some useful information.
Thanks, Scott Ginaven
<this is a well-documented occurrence... read on/abroad my friend. I also
will take this opportunity to state my regret that proponents of mud systems do
not better educate consumers on the merits and dangers of using Caulerpa, while
offering other alternatives. Caulerpa can be a boon or a scourge. I personally
find it to be too demanding for casual aquarists. Best regards, Anthony
Calfo>
Caulerpa finesse/control 11/11/03
I have had the pleasure of listening to Anthony Calfo
speak at the Rocky Mountain Reef Club meeting.
<it was a wonderful time for all... I had a lot of fun and saw many beautiful
things>
I did not ask how to get the C. serrulata with minimal
damage. I have had it about 8 months an do not want
it to mature. Garie
<no worries... Caulerpa is just as easily a boon if it is duly maintained.
Conduct regular water changes to both dilute and reconstitute the seawater in
your system (weekly 10-20% is much better IMO than monthly 30+%). Use carbon or
other chemical media (Like PolyFilters) faithfully to maintain proper water
clarity and to also temper the noxious accumulations of various organisms in
your display... and lastly, be sure to systematically thin fronds of your
Caulerpa to interrupt its life cycle (3-6 months for 40+ species in the genus)
and hopefully stave off acts of sexual reproduction (you can also help this by
running lights 24/7 over your Caulerpa in refugia to keep in stasis). The
thinning will also encourage more growth and utilize the macro as a good
vegetable filter for nutrient export). With kind regards, Anthony>
Need advice finding a Caulerpa racemosa predator
To Bob or Anthony:
What type of animal would you suggest to help aid me in
keeping Caulerpa racemosa in check within my aquarium? I know it shouldn't be in
the main tank in the first place, but I made a beginner's mistake, and now must
try to rectify it. I have tried Elysia sp. sea slugs in the past, but they
always seem to disappear mysteriously (perhaps getting sucked up into the
intakes of my pumps). I remove it by hand, but I find I have to do this QUITE a
bit! I also thought that a type of tang might be the answer, until I did some
exploring on your website which suggests that this is not the case. Any thoughts
or suggestion?
<Actually... a Zebrasoma or Ctenochaetus species of tang would be my first
choices>
It is starting to get out of control, which has me VERY concerned. I do like to
feed (to maximize the growth of "cryptic" organisms within my tank),
using DT's phytoplankton (I intend to switch in the very near future to
BioPlankton). Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank you for your time.
<Try a/the tang first here... And if this doesn't "do the trick",
we'll discuss the next tier of controls. Bob Fenner>
Lucas
Grathwohl
Bob, already have a Ctenochaetus sp. tang for Caulerpa
control, but it doesn't help too much
To Bob Fenner at Wet Web Media:
This is Lucas Grathwohl again. I read over your first
email regarding Caulerpa racemosa control (about using several sp. of tangs in
hopes they will eat it).
<Most Bristlemouth tang species are more keen for filamentous types, even
diatom scums... I would add a smaller (or much larger) Zebrasoma species if it
will fit>
Truth is, I already have a Ctenochaetus sp. (Kole) tang in my tank, but it
doesn't seem to help in the control of this "weed". It will
occasionally rasp at and chew on some strands, but buy and large leaves most of
the Caulerpa alone. I don't think it would be wise to try another sp. of tang,
seeing as I already have one in the tank. As you know from my previous email, I
also tried in the past (on two separate occasions) a Elysia sp. sea slug, but
these did not help either (seeming to disappear in a matter of weeks). In the
past, I wrote to Dr. Rob Toonen about the problem (actually having more to do
with Bryopsis), and he recommended a Sea Urchin, which I added (I believe it to
be a Diadema sp.). It by and large has done its job well, with just a few
patches of Bryopsis here and there.
<There are a few algae eating urchins per se...>
As far as skimming and filtration go, I use a Remora
skimmer by Aqua C, and in the overflow compartment I have hung with a lettuce
clip some Polyfilter, which allows water to pass through rather than over the
material. Lighting is a JBJ Formosa fixture with 4x65 watt lights (three 10k and
one blue). Water current is provided by two Marineland 660 powerheads, one
AquaClear 300 filter (with no medium or foam inserted), and the flow from the
Remora. All equipment is plugged into a "Power Center"
wavemaker/light-timer from Energy Savers, which provides for switching of the
powerheads, a dawn/day/dusk/night cycle, and powering all other equipment. Trace
elements are provided by "Balance blocks" by HBH enterprises (I use
the big brick supplement and place it in the AquaClear filter). I also perform
weekly five gallon or so water changes using Coralife sea salt and R.O. water.
R.O. water is re-constituted by using Bacter Vital and "Funky Old Reed
Mud". I also like to feed (to bring out the cryptic organisms within the
rock). I have used DT's plankton, along with ChromaPlex and ComboVital. In the
very near future I plan to switch over entirely to BioPlankton.
<Of these I would definitely drop the "vital" products (they're
not) as these are likely contributing much more to the Caulerpa problem than
not>
Any suggestions? Thank you for your time
P.S.: I also have some Halimeda algae in my tank, which is doing fine also, but
it is not the plague that the Caulerpa is. Hopefully any other solutions you
have will not do damage to this plant.
<Do you have use for/tolerance for some hermit crabs? There are some of these
that are good at picking out Caulerpas... but my first choice is switching out
the tangs... or mechanical (groan) removal. Bob Fenner>
Waves And Weeds...(Water Movement/Caulerpa Control)
Hi again, a few other things to add,
I've seen this advertised
SCWD Wave machine. Tee shaped device that oscillates flow from left to right
without electricity.. $39.99
Can you tell me more about it?
<Well...It is a unique device that essentially "oscillates flow from
left to right without electricity..!" Honestly, it's a great little device.
I'd use it externally 'cause it's butt-ugly, and you don't want it in the tank,
but the thing rocks!>
I've seen the plans before about a device which was home made. Using
a clock motor to turn a bar with a hole drilled in it inside a
housing. As the bar turned water was directed to either one or the
other outlet to provide a sinusoidal wave like out-put. Does this
device sold on the web have the same idea?
<Not sure, to be honest. I've never personally used one or taken one apart
(I'm a Sea Swirl man, myself)
How good is it actually? Can you tell me more?
<A really innovative idea. A number of my fish-geek friends use them, and
really like the results>
Also, I have some macro algae I believe to be green grape Caulerpa but no
grazing fish. As this sporulates and pieces die will this be a big
problem by adding more phosphate to my system?
<Well, I suppose that absorbed nutrients will be released, but it's usually
the sexual products and cellular material that lead to degraded water quality
following one of these events>
Do you suggest I remove it? I'd like to get a Tang to eat it, but I
have some very very pretty red macro algae that grows on my rocks and I'm
worried a Tang may eat all of my lovely algae while pruning the grape algae. What
do you think?
<Well- you won't have much control over what the tang eats. Manual extraction
may be the way to go...Not easy, but it may work>
Another thing is about the lights. I can't seem to find any glass
shop here that knows about UV blocking glass. If I home made a lamp
how can I UV protect it. I'm quite concerned and don't want to risk
damaging my eyes. Thanx again. Greg
<Well, Greg- I'd consult the manufacturer of the light bulbs to see what to
use here, if it is necessary at all...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Remedies for controlling Caulerpa racemosa? 1/11/04
Napalm or Flamethrower? <G>
To Bob and/or Anthony:
<howdy my friend>
My name is Lucas Grathwohl and I have written to you before about the plague
known as Caulerpa racemosa.
<arghhh... a tough one. Allegedly the most toxic of its family. Very noxious
and not readily consumed by the best herbivores (for good reason)>
I inadvertently put some into my main tank, and it is know growing at epic
proportions.
<you mean like the vegetation in in the cinematic interpretation of Conrad's
"Heart of Darkness"... the classic: "Apocalypse Now!". If
so... we may need to re-enact the final scene with fighters and napalm. What's
that I hear in the distance?... Wagner's "Flight of the Valkeries"? Oh,
sorry... just a cell phone ring-tone.>
I fear that it will soon overtake my entire tank, making the keeping of corals
and inverts. all but impossible (due to the overgrowth and shading). I will get
right to the point: can you give me a detailed list of remedies that could/will
work on this pest?
<yes:
1) manual extraction and a water change.
2) a water change, then manual extraction... then another water change.
3) napalm and a flamethrower>
I have tried Elysia sp. sea slugs in the past (I believe they were the right
species) but these did not work, disappearing in a matter of weeks. I have also
tried the Tang approach, but this is not very practical, either.
<it has been demonstrated to be mildly to very toxic to many grazers who
knowingly avoid it. Prolonged grazing of it by some fishes leads to death>
I know Bob has mentioned hermit crabs, but he did not mention any specific
species that might work (I already do employ some "blue leg" hermits
within my tank).
<they only graze microalgae... not macros here>
I do manually pull the stuff out, but this gets to be a BIG chore, not to
mention the fact that the stuff grows right back in a matter of days, anyway.
<persistence my friend>
Is there some magic bullet that will work, or am I doomed to have to completely
start over from scratch?
<neither. Simply manual extraction, diligence and perhaps some large Turban
snails and/or urchins>
I don't really want to do this (seeing as this hobby is expensive enough
already), but if I need to, then so be it. I have written to Bob Goeman's in the
past, but all I get is the manual removal approach.
<I agree... trust the words of wisdom/experience>
If you can provide any remedies/answers, I can be reached at XXXX@mn.rr.com. If
any biological avenues do exist, then could you by chance also direct me to some
vendors who sell such specimens (and by vendors I mean people who will go
through the trouble of positively identifying their livestock by species name,
etc.). Thank you for your time.
<best of luck>
P.S.: I did add a Foxface Rabbitfish a few days ago (out of desperation and
idiocy), and this of course has yet to yield any results (if any). Do you happen
to know of anyone who could use a Foxface?
<do look up your local or regional aquarium society. Many have forums on the
big message boards like reefcentral.com Anthony>
Green Water & Caulerpa (1/19/04)
Dear WWM Crew, I have been reading a lot on Caulerpa and its use in
refugiums. I understand why and how the Caulerpa can have a
catastrophic outcome. My question is once the Caulerpa has gone
sexual and started to turn the water green, then what? Is fish loss
inevitable?? <Not necessarily.> Will the entire system need to be
sterilized?? <No> Instead of me listing off a hundred questions, could you
please list what steps need to be taken once this event takes place?? Thank
You, so much!! And I will certainly spread the word "Friends
don't let friends buy
Caulerpa" Amen!!
<There are still many who swear by Caulerpa (other than racemosa). There are
ways of preventing crashing. These are abundantly discussed in the WWM FAQs on
Caulerpa and other subjects. As for what to do if it is crashing, removing the
dead stuff, performing large water changes and using PolyFilter and carbon will
mitigate the consequences. If you are really worried about this possibility,
then I would suggest Chaetomorpha instead.>
Sincerely, Jen Marshall <Hope this helps, Steve Allen>
Mystery Blob And Caulerpa Control!
Hi guys,
<Scott F. your guy tonight!>
I'm unable to identify this strange black hard jelly like blob that has grown in
my tank. It is approx 5” long and has grown down the back of the
rock , with only a ½ inch showing on the top , in the light.
<Well, I don't have access to my reference library right now, but I'll go out
on a limb and suggest that you're looking at some kind of sponge here...A glance
at a copy of "Reef Invertebrates" by Bob and Anthony might yield some
ideas here...>
Also, is there any way to stop this leafy Caulerpa growing so wildly, despite my
attempts to cut it back. It seems to grow very quickly. The tank parameters are
almost zero nitrate, phosphate, 380 calc, 9 dKH.
Many thanks Mark - Scotland
<Well, Mark, the absolute best way to limit Caulerpa, short of physical
extraction by you, is to employ herbivorous fish, such as tangs or Rabbitfish.
Of course, this "biological control" will only be appropriate if the
tank is sufficient to support a tang! Unfortunately, there are no easy answers
here. Your nutrient levels are low, but these macroalgae are resourceful!
Really, manual extraction and herbivores are the two best methods, IMO. Good
luck! Regards, Scott F>
P.S. I love your website , the more I read it the more I want to know more
about my reef – and its all there to read.
Eliminating Caulerpa From A Display
Hi,
<Hi there. Scott F. with you tonight!>
We have reef tank with an Ecosystem sump that we are changing from Caulerpa to
Chaetomorpha.
<Yaaayyy!!! Good call!>
The problem is that the Caulerpa got into the main tank (Caulerpa Taxifolia - or
feather Caulerpa). It attached itself to a 25lb piece of Marshall
Island rock and we can't get rid of it. We removed the rock and
scrubbed with a toothbrush and it just came right back - stronger than
ever. Removing it all with tweezers is impossible as it has invaded
the crevices of the rock. This rock is at the base of our reef - so
removing again would be really hard. Will darkness kill the Caulerpa
(dead enough so that it won't return)?
<Probably, but at potentially greater cost to the other photosynthetic plants
and animals in your system>
We could move all corals to the other side and cover that rock with black
plastic for a month if it would work.
<I suppose that would work. On the other hand, as long as you keep it
"contained", that could be an acceptable outcome, too-right? If you
can keep the stuff contained to the point where it won't threaten to overrun
more desirable sessile life forms, than maybe you can live with the
Caulerpa.>
Our tangs and algae blenny won't eat this stuff. Any reef safe way to
destroy it would be appreciated!
Doug
<Unfortunately, Doug, total eradication of this, or any macroalgae species is
a difficult proposition at best. On the other hand, if you simply don't want
this stuff in your system, you could either remove the rock entirely from the
system and replace it with another rock, or you can remove it and "chip
away" the sections of the rock "infested" with the Caulerpa, and
then replace the rock into the display...But you never know-this macroalgae
could come back if even a single holdfast or runner remains. In the end, you may
be better off just learning to live with it. Good luck! Regards, Scott
F>
Too much Caulerpa? 5/3/04
hi again crew.
<howdy>
first off, some good news. thanks for the advice re: nicotine on the
fingers from a couple of months back. i think that was what was
causing my sudden fish death syndrome.
<it's amazing how easily contaminants are carried into the tank... aluminum
from underarm anti-perspirant, acetone from ladies (or men's - Doh!) painted
fingernails, petrol products from under finger nails, etc>
since then, I've bought a grabber and latex gloves, and haven't suffered any
losses in quarantine (knocking on wood aquarium stand :)
<excellent to hear... and it protects you from pathogens too!>
I'm up to a Rabbitfish, 6 green Chromis, and a brittle star. all seem
to be healthy and happy. well, i used to have 7 Chromis, but i think
it got sucked through a pump (i was away on vacation).
anyway, to my question. I have tons of green grape algae.
<Arghhh... this is believed to be the most toxic/noxious of all the common
Caulerpas. Do be careful>
to the point where it's literally like a forest around my live
rock. i had figured that the Rabbitfish would have cut it back, but
it seems to love prime reef (no veggies there).
<many fish will not eat this/other Caulerpas because of their noxious
composition>
it loves the formula 2 (basically, enriched Nori) i give
it, but just doesn't seem to graze. i think it's a baby and scared
(it's about 3 inches, and has it's spines up and hides most of the time). i
don't want to stop the formula 2, because i know it's a staple in their diet,
and i don't want it to just eat the prime reef if it's so young.
<correct>
so, should i get another herbivore to "teach" it/trim back the
algae?
<not likely or recommended>
I know having too much Caulerpa is not the worst problem to have...
<on the contrary... there are serious risks with it... toxicity, vegetative
events, etc. We describe this at length in our Reef Invertebrates book and there
is quite a lot on this topic in the WWM archives. Do a keyword search with the
Google.com search tool from the home page for Caulerpa and see much>
also, both the Chromis' and the Rabbitfish are listed in Scott Michaels book
(500 marine fishes) as feed 2-3 times a day. isn't that a bit
excessive?
<good heavens no! These are fish that feed on plankton and algae,
respectively, almost constantly in the wild. Small frequent feedings are
best>
i feed once per day, and think that's too much.
<perhaps the quantity at one sitting os too much... but not the
frequency.>
thanks in advance-- rob
<best regards, Anthony>
Caulerpa and Xenia newbie
<Hey Angela, Mac here>
Ok so, I got the mix n' match special for IPSF.com which included 2 types of
Caulerpa (Long and Short Feather Caulerpa), as well as their tang heaven. <Nice
mix.>
My question: I don't have a refugium and wanted to include these macroalgae
directly in my tank for food, as well as some greenery. <Sounds good.>
I've been doing some reading on the site and so far most people with Caulerpa
have it in a refugium with the lights on 24/7 to avoid the plant going
"sexual"-which I assume can wipe out the tank. <It can be such a problem.> My
lights are on 12 hours a day; will this cause an eventual toxic situation? <It
possibly will go toxic, but you can watch it closely. You watch for signs of it
turning white and can clip off that portion, which will stop it from turning
sexual.> I don't have a reef tank just FOWLR. <The big questions is what kind
of fish do you have in your tank. Some tangs and larger angels will eat the
Caulerpa.>
Is there a particular type of Caulerpa that are more dangerous than others,
or are the types I have ok? <Personal experience here, the grape went sexual
very quickly on me.> If not I'll remove them immediately.
On that note, as part of my IPSF.com shipment I got a "freebie"- a slow pulse
which I believe is a Xenia. <Sounds like it.>
It was pulsing about an hour ago, but it was near the bottom of the tank and
wasn't attaching to anything-it sort of fell to its side.
Moved it near the top of the tank (good current but not too strong as its
unattached). I think the move really stressed it out. It stopped pulsing and
all the branches are open and drooping. I guess its dying. <Maybe not, it could
be just traumatized.>
The tank is a 90 gallon with 6-20 watt full spectrum fluorescents and 2-20 watt
actinic blue bulbs. Ph is 8.4 during the day, ca 450, salinity 1.023.
Thanks so much
-Angela
<Good luck, Mac>
Growing Caulerpa
Thanks again Scott,
<Glad to be of service!>
Sorry to fire all these questions at you but it seems you have be the best
source of information on marine life there is.
<We're thrilled that you enjoy it!>
I have to have my daily fix of WWM, as they say you learn something
every day and this is most true with your site.
<Sure is- we learn constantly, too!>
Anyway, just a very quick question today. I have a load of Caulerpa racemosa in
one of my two sumps (the one with the DSB in it). I wish to move all this algae
to another more reachable, shall we say-sump. This sump has no sand or substrate
at all in it. Does this matter for the growth of the algae for
NNR? Many thanks again. Simon.
<Well, Simon- sand is not a necessity to propagate this macroalgae. Nutrients
are absorbed from the water column. However, you may want to provide some rock
pieces for the runners to attach to. This stuff grows with very little
encouragement needed on the part of the hobbyist! Have fun! Regards, Scott F>
Caulerpa articles? 8/28/04
Hello, I have found a couple of references to an article that
Anthony was writing regarding Caulerpa and it's negative
impacts when used in large amounts in refugium. I have not
been able to find the article. Do you know if he ever
uploaded the article? Thank you. Brad J
<I never did finish the article my friend... but do have a few dozen pertinent
references you can run down if you have access to a good library (University
type). I'll have to dig our these references if interested. Else I do hope to
tackle that piece in the near future. Anthony>
Algae Problems, looking for a predator for Caulerpa sp.
Hey guys! You rock!! <We think you rock too DJ>
I have a 75 with a DSB sump, fish and some polyps, everything is doing great
except for some Caulerpa serrata in the display and it just grows and grows (not
out of control mind you, there is a minimum of excess nutrients, all levels are
zero with the DSB). <Sounds wonderful.> I prune a lot of it during each weekly
water change to keep it away from the polyps, but I don't really like ripping it
out as it has latched on to the sand and rocks pretty well and I don't like
disturbing the inhabitants (the tank is about a year old, there are all sorts of
Mysid and Gammarus running around this algae, the polyps have been spreading
from rock to rock, so I don't want to move any of that). <Sounds great
actually.>
Is there a natural predator of this type of algae that I could obtain or should
I just bite the bullet and rip it all out from the display? <I do recommend
pruning it and pulling most of it out as necessary if it begins encroaching on
the other corals, but if its not harming anything what you are doing seems to be
sufficient.> Any other suggestions would be welcome, obviously my tang and the
urchins wont t |