Re: Stichodactyla gigantea, Lighting, Collection – 9/29/07
Thank you for your advice, Brenda!
<You’re Welcome!>
Today, I was re-reading my issues of Coral Fish, the major reef publication here, and, in short, they say that so few healthy carpet anemones come into Japan that they cannot recommend buying most imported specimens.
<I would have to agree with that. Collection and transport is very difficult on them. Here in the US, I recommend propagated anemones over wild collected. Too many anemones die from collection and shipping.>
They believe one should be an expert at judging the health of an anemone before purchasing one (and, even then, recommend purchasing domestically raised carpets).
<Definitely learn how to select a healthy anemone.>
I have yet to see a blue carpet from Okinawa, so after reading your advice and this, I will give my tank at least a few more years before thinking about this again.
<Good!>
Bob is right about going overboard in gear here. People here tend to want the newest, "best" thing that they often don't need, such as new snowboards and cell phones “every” year. I luckily get most of my equipment from a store with a conscience, which is why I have a simpler set-up than most people here.
<Wise choice!>
Also, I think I was unclear in my last e-mail. "Acclimating" in English seems to also include matching the temperature of the water in the anemone/coral bag to the tank before putting it in, which many people in Japan do in fact do with at least anemones (often by floating the bag in the tank water). I had only intended it to mean when you slowly drip in the water from the main tank into the container containing the anemone/coral. I did it with the Sebae thanks to the advice in your FAQ, but the store I purchased it from feels that if your water quality is as good as it should be, it is unnecessary.
<Even if water parameters are excellent, there will still be some variation in chemistry. Introducing an anemone to a new environment is very stressful, and it is best to do so slowly. Keep in mind you will have no idea what this anemone has been through before it got to you. I can assure you, if it has recently been removed from the ocean, it has suffered some degree of stress. If you can eliminate any added stress, I recommend doing so.>
Thank you again so much for your helpful advice!
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Your fan,
K

Stichodactyla gigantea, Lighting – 9/29/07
Hi guys,
<Hello K, Brenda here>
I am a big fan of your site for the individualized help you give the people who write in.
<Thank you!>
While I haven't been in this hobby very long, I realize that every veteran has a differing opinions and experiences to offer. I live in Japan, where sea horses are local creatures and natural clean sea water is easy to get a hold of. Not many people acclimate their corals or anemones in Japan, and some people in Japan install tanks and put in corals on almost the same day.
<Ouch!>
So, it really surprises me sometimes how cautious and meticulous the advice is on English websites in comparison.
<Now you have me surprised!>
My tank is a 36X18X20 acrylic tank (huge by Japan standards, but small by US standards, it seems) which holds approximately 50 gallons. I have a sump/fuge where I use a simple skimmer that I plan to upgrade next month and use one 150W MH clip lamp with two moonlights. I mostly keep LPS, so this has been more than sufficient lighting. Recently, I purchased a Sebae anemone, which we call a "white-string anemone" in Japanese (they appear white in our local waters). The anemone currently sits below the MH and has expanded widely, which I take to be a good sign.
<Would need to see a picture. Expanding widely may be a sign that it is trying to get more light.>
Most anemone keepers in Japan say it is important to buy anemones taken from Japanese waters, as they are subject to much less transport stress and will have not been fished using chemicals.
<Transport is very stressful on anemones, chemicals are deadly! Here in the US many people are propagating anemones.>
As expected, locally caught anemones fetch 3-5 times the price as those from Southeast Asia. There are many people in Japan who have raised Sebae without using MH and compensate by feeding "regularly." Your FAQs have been extremely helpful in helping me slowly determine what to feed and what "regularly" means. It still does not eat much yet, but I have been feeding it old leftover frozen fatty tuna and krill. My question is regarding the lighting requirements for carpet anemones of the gigantea variety, which I know require more light than most varieties.
<Yes, and this is an extremely difficult anemone to keep. It should only be kept by those with a lot of experience keeping anemones.>
I know there will be warfare if I have both in the tank at the same time, but I plan to remove the sebae once I decide to get a carpet anemone.
<Good>
Planning in advance to see whether I could meet a carpet anemone's needs will be the determining factor in whether I actually purchase one. In regards to lighting, is a 150W MH enough?
<This anemone needs more lighting than 150W. I would go with 250W MH myself.>
My tank isn't all that large and the light is focused only on the anemone right now. I realize that more light will also reach the anemone better with clearer water, which is part of my reasoning in upgrading skimmers.
<Excellent water parameters are a necessity here.>
Being that Tokyo has limited electrical power allocated to apartment units, running a second MH is probably not the best option. Perhaps I should lower the current lamp and raise the sandbed?
<I don’t believe this will provide enough lighting.>
Other than buying a LED unit such as the Solaris, do you have any suggestions?
<The best option is to find away to get a 250W MH over this anemone.>
Thanks so much.
Your fan,
K
<I did run a few questions by Bob. His response is below: Brenda>
Bob,
<Bren>
What can you tell me about Japanese water quality and collection of anemones there?
<Water quality is variable... and aquarists in Japan tend to "go overboard" with gear, particularly lighting, filtration...>
There is a question in my in-box that has me a bit shocked. Particularly the paragraphs below:
“Not many people acclimate their corals or anemones in Japan, and some people in Japan install tanks and put in corals on almost the same day. So, it really surprises me sometimes how cautious and meticulous the advice is on English websites in comparison.”
<Mmm, this is so to an extent>
“I purchased a sebae anemone, which we call a "white-string anemone" in Japanese (they appear white in our local waters).”
Thanks,
Brenda
<Yes... "things" are different in general twixt here and there. BobF>

Rising nitrite after fish addition- lighting ? Tusk in a too small world... with a Carpet Anemone?   8/2/07
Dear WWM Crew,
<Scott>
I stumbled across a copy of The Conscientious Marine Aquarist and read about my recent Harlequin Tusk purchase before doing so and was very impressed with the accurate description of this fish thus far, excellent job Mr. Fenner!
<Danke>
I have recently introduced this Indonesian Harlequin Tusk and since its' addition, the tank has been going through a small cycle. I am pretty sure it is due more to my trying to get the tusk to eat, which he is doing quite well now, (subsequently overfeeding with frozen krill/mysis shrimp and shrimp pellets, leaving behind organic detritus) than the actual addition of the new fish. The tusk has been in for 5 days now. Prior to the addition NH4, NO2, NO3 were all at 0. On day 4 NH4 was 0 and NO2 and NO3 were slightly raised at .1 and 2.5 respectively. Today (Day 5) NH4 is around 0 (.1 at the most) NO2 has risen slightly to .2 and NO3 is still at 2.5 ppm.
The tank is an established (1.5 yrs) 65gallon
<Mmm, the Tusk needs more room>
with a 20 gallon sump (wet/dry with bio balls trickle), a 65gal Coralife SuperSkimmer (that actually pulls a descent amount everyday), an estimated 80 lbs of live rock by now, and a 15W Aqua UV sterilizer. The fish are not showing any signs of stress, but wanting to ward off any trouble I did a 5 gallon water change and rinsed out the filter media in the old water before I dumped it, then put the same media back in. I did not want to replace the media for the risk of losing bacterial breakdown capability which is what I need to work. (was rinsing it at all even a good idea?)
<Likely not a problem... given the amount of LR, the refugium...>
I halted feeding accept for the tusk to which I only fed him/her one krill today.
<Good>
I want to know if there is anything more that I can/should be doing to aid in the quick reduction of this cycle?
<Patience really...>
Will turning off the lights help reduce anything? The tank will probably drop a degree over the next day with the lights off, is this beneficial?
<Mmm, no. I would turn the lights back on, cycle them regularly>
As a side note how long should my carpet anemone
<!? I would NOT keep a carpet in this small volume... If it should be "upset" it will take your fishes out in short fashion>
go without lighting if this course of action is recommended? Thank you for your advice on this matter.
All the best,
Scott
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/carpetanemones.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/Choerodon/faciata.htm
and the linked files above... I'd move the Carpet elsewhere pronto... be looking for a much larger home for the Choerodon... Bob Fenner>

Carpet anemone, comp.     5/16/07
Hi there
<Dave>
Hate to write, prefer to read. I spend probably close to an hour a day reading on your site, it is my understanding that more than 1 anemone can not live happily together in one tank,
<Mmm, well... some species more than others... and if the system is huge...>
however I can not find if it is just carpets or tentacle or all anemones all together. I am just hoping you can refer me to the proper page.
<Oh, is here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
scroll down to the tray on Anemones... the Compatibility FAQs files...>
I have a long tentacle anemone and a carpet, I stupidly bought the carpet spur of the moment without doing my reading first and am now worried that they will not be ok together.
<Not likely... and carpet species alone are generally hard to keep in hobby circumstances... as you'll read/see>
Thanks so much for the help, I have found your site to be the best thing since fragged polyps, and has kept me and mine functioning with excellence since the start.
<Heeeee! Thank you. Bob Fenner>
Dave

Carpet anemone problems... induced  11/18/06
hello WWM crew,
I have had a marine setup for a few months now and I set it up  from new. The tank has matured and I've had a few species in there living  comfortably for a while now and there are no problems with the water chemistry,  but a carpet anemone ive
<...>
had in there for a month is always shriveled up and  seems lifeless. When I try to feed it with lance fish
<...>
the resident clown fish  takes the food away and wont let the anemone feed, I don't know if this is the  problem with it or not but it has turned completely inside out and shrunk really small.
<...>
its was attached to rock and then when I found it in the morning it was up-side down and lifeless. Does this mean its dead or is there a chance I can save it? any info on this would be much appreciated. thank you.
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cptanemdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Carpet..., just read   10/8/06
Hi WWM Crew
  I have a 30 gallon tank.  Would a Stichodactyla haddoni (Carpet Anemone) fit in my 30 gallon tank?
<Nope>
  Because they get large.  I have a powerhead I am going to use for extra water movement for the anemone.  Also what lighting requirements are needed for the Stichodactyla haddoni?
  I am making sure that I research before I buy.  
  Thank you for your reply
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/carpetanemones.htm
and the linked files above. BobF>

Re: sea anemone.. Carpet..., just read   10/8/06
Thank you for your fast reply.  I will have to find another interesting invertebrate.  One more quick question.  Why do anemones need so much light?  Because if you feed them meaty foods why would they need the light.  They do not do photosynthesis.
  Thanks
<Most do/can derive a significant portion of their nutrition through photosynthesis... Please, keep reading. BobF>

Blue Anemone... Is It Real? - 10/02/06 Dyed Anem., Cpt. FAQs f's   
Crew-
<<CJ>>
Just to double check, can blue-colored carpets be 'healthy', or are these always bleached/injected/doomed?
<<There are "blue" carpet anemones in the wild>>
For example, do the specimens offered for sale @ http://www.gofishdirect.com/commerce.cgi?cart_id=1156027517.18607&product=Anemone&pid=1431&log_pid=yes appear to your eye to be specimens that conscientious hobbyists should avoid?
<<Possibly, but more due to the fact these anemones "may" have been rough-handled, they ship poorly, and can be difficult to acclimate to captive systems...but not because it is blue>>
Some research published on your site and by others in print have led me to be wary of such vivid specimens, knowing that organisms that host zooxanthellae favor browns, creams, oranges, greens.... such an intense blue makes me think twice.
<<Indeed...  As stated, there "are" blue anemones (Bob posted a picture of a wild specimen in Sulawesi not long ago), and it is my experience and belief that most pictures of "vividly" colored corals posted for sale are...shall we say...less than accurate representations.  I'm not saying these particular anemones haven't been dye injected...there's always that chance.  Your best bet is to research the vendor as best you can (query the message boards) to try to determine if they are known for passing dyed or otherwise tainted livestock>>
Your thoughts on purchasing afore referenced specimen?
<<Hmm…how many blue anemones have you seen thriving in hobbyist’s tanks?>>
As always, I appreciate your opinion, time.
Cj
<<As always, is a pleasure to share.  EricR>>

Carpet Anemone/Compatibility/Anemone Systems  04/17/2006
Hi,
<Hello Christy>
I just wanted to know a little about the blue striped clown and possible anemone hosts.  I am in the process of restocking my 30 gal tank and I purchased a green carpet anemone with an anemone crab living with it.  
<No researching done here for sure as to needs/requirements of this creature.>
I previously had two true Percs living in a BTA, but unfortunately they were lost in an "accident" in the tank.  I was told that the carpet was not a suitable host for clowns, which is why I got the crab with it.
<They are suitable hosts for certain species of clownfish such as perculas.  Other clowns may also call it home in the absence of their preferred anemone host.>
I recently picked up a blue striped clown (only one - that's all they had) and added it to the tank.  I was not expecting there to be any reaction between the anemone and the clown.  I know that it is not easy to get the clown to accept an anemone.  Naturally the minute the clown was introduced to the tank it went straight to the anemone!  My concern is that this clown seems to be reacting to the sting of the anemone (I know I did when trying to relocate it!) It has taken to sucking on the tentacles and seems to be reacting less to that over the couple of days it has been in.  
<Normal adapting behavior, the reaction causes the clownfish to produce a protective slime coating.>
Is this how it stimulates production of the mucus coating?  Will it eventually be able to tolerate the sting of this anemone?
<Yes.>
I am not sure whether I should be concerned, or let "nature" take its course. If it does accept the anemone (the crab seems willing, or resigned to share at this point??) should I try to get a "mate" for the clown?
<Not necessary, I'd be more concerned as to how long this anemones life span is going to be in your tank.  Do read here Christy.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm <<James, need more link/s, guidance than this. RMF>>
I have a smaller tank <10 gal that is cycling now.  I have never had a quarantine tank before.  Would that be appropriate to use as a quarantine tank until the larger tank is fully stocked?  Then I could put a fish in the smaller one to stay.
<Yes, for smaller fish such as the clown.>
I have had the larger tank for 2 - 3 years, but I am still a novice at this.  
<Do search/read on livestock before you buy, know requirements/needs of the animal.>
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)
Christy

Carpet Anemone Care  1/8/06
Should I feed my green carpet anemone at night or during the day.
<I usually feed anemones in the day when they are fully expanded and alert.>
I feed it thawed frozen Mysid shrimp soaked in DT's phytoplankton 1 day and the next day live brine shrimp
<SO you are feeding everyday? That’s a bit much, 2 times a week is almost more than enough.  The first food item you mentioned is fine, the brine shrimp is nutritionally void unless it is freshly hatched and even so I can think of some other foods I would rather utilize.>
, is this good to keep it thriving
<For now, this animal has a large potential, the diameter will be larger than your tank is wide. Use a more varied regime of food like squid, krill and chopped silver sides.>
. 45 gallon tank with 165 watts of lighting 1 daylight and one antic blue.
<Lighting is marginal for this animal, I would use x2, 10K bulbs and change the bulbs every 6 to 9 months.>
Thanks in advanced
<Sure.>
--Sbatiste
<Adam J.>

Carpet Anemone Care and its snacks….I mean tank mates 12/1/2005
I purchased a green carpet from my LFS today after observing it for 3 weeks (I had hoped this would serve as a pseudo-QT)
<Well as I’m sure you know animals are best quarantined in a closed system for personal observation. This was a risk even if a small one.>
It was slowly acclimated and looked beautiful (about 9 in. across) and had dug into the substrate, but mere hours later it had everted its mouth, and a couple hours later it deflated
<<Better described as a "prolapse", rather than an inversion.  Marina>>
<Normal, they expel the water within them and take on new water..>
to about 3 inches. After reading previous entries I did a 5gal H2O change, and increased water flow (as recommended in the Reef Aquarium vol 2).
<Good but I would keep a more discipline water change regime, at least 10% weekly on a reef tank.>
It is a beautiful creature and I will feel awful to see it perish in my tank (which I always thought would be less stressful than a dealers), is there anything else I can do?
<Just provide pristine conditions. And feed meaty foods of marine origin once a week. I hope you have done your research on these animals as they are quite hard to sustain in home aquaria.>
90 gal tank, 15 gal sump/ planted refugium wet/dry filter; aggressor skimmer
<That sounds good.>
Fish: 8 Chromis, 2 ocellaris, dragon goby, bicolor blenny,& fairy wrasse various small hermit crabs, snails, blue linckia, royal urchin, crocea clam toadstool leather, Montiporas, xenia, & mushrooms
<Hmm…well one thing is for sure, in your research you overlooked compatibility. Most of your fish are at high risk for becoming snacks for your new anemone and your sessile inverts are all in danger as well. This anemone can reach 3 feet in diameter and will sting anything it touches…including you. The anemone was not a great addition as far as tank mates.>
salinity: 1.023
ammonia : 0
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 20-25 ppm
<These need to be much lower, less than 10 in a reef tank. Keep up on the water changes.>
pH 8.3
temp: 78-80
I use instant Ocean salt and Kent Coral Accel, Coral Vite and Essential Elements, and Weiss' Combo Vital at 1/2 recommended dose due to a light coral load.
<<I suggest you do a bit of research regarding the efficacy of the Weiss products as well.  Marina>>
<What type of lighting do you have? Read here for more detail on care for your new animal: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cptanemfaqs.htm >
Thank you, Denise
<Welcome, Adam J.> 

Re: Carpet Anemone Care  12/2/05
The lighting is VHO's and power compacts for a total of over 300 watts in a 90 gallon.
<Okay be sure to change the VHO bulbs about every 12 months and the PC’s every 6 to 9 months for best results.>
Sorry for not specifying, but the 5 gal water change was in addition to my weekly 5%
<Ahh, good.>
two days prior (it was all the water that I had aged). I was under the impression that SPS liked slightly elevated nitrates 
<SPS come from some of the most nutrient depleted rather sterile (as far as nutrients and plankton) water in the world. Keep nitrates as close to zero as possible, if you are worried about food for the SPS there are other ways to go about is, I like the oyster eggs cultured by DT’s for feeding SPS.>
(around 20 ppm) which wouldn't harm my other inhabitants, am I following bad advise?
<20ppm won’t cause any short term damage but really, nitrates are best kept under 10, most reef keepers shoot for zero.>
The anemone swelled back up this AM, but still had a little of its mouth everted but closed.
<It’s still adjusting. Give it some time.>
Then a few hours after basting some shrimp onto it, he deflated again, should I move him to a different location?
<No, if it does not like its current position it will move on its own.>
He is in high flow, but in the substrate at the bottom of the tank. How can I tell if he is a sand or rock dweller (in the LFS I was told to put it in the sand)?
<Most flock toward the sand but you should not move it anywhere as mentioned above.>
I fear that in my effort to find the most suitable anemone for my ocellaris (I was mistakenly proud to have chosen the carpet, over the flashy Heteractis magnifica (due to it's poor captive record)
<Yes it is a better choice than H. magnifica that’s for sure but no anemone is easy by any definition of the word.>
that I neglected the other inhabitants of the tank.
<A captive raised E. quadricolor would be my only choice if I ever wanted to keep an anemone.>
Do you have any advise on which tankmates will be most endangered, or have I condemned them all?
<Well from the fish list you gave me, all of those will be at risk of being consumed especially the smaller/slower moving fish like gobies and the dragonet you have.>
Thank you for your valuable advise
<Quite welcome, Adam J.> 

Carpet Anemone Feeding
I have a question regarding feeding anemones.  I saw a gorgeous white short tentacle carpet anemone,
<None are naturally white... yours is bleached... has lost its endosymbiotic zooxanthellae>
I later identified it as a Merten's carpet. I purchased it 3 months ago, it was under 2 inches in diameter,
<Tiny!>
I started off feeding it every 3 days with vitamin enriched brine shrimp.  After two months or so the anemone doubled in size.  It was big enough that I could feed it goldfish, which I have been doing for the past month.  It stings them into submission, and devours them whole. It does not regurgitate the food and it is ready to eat again in a few days.  It has quite the appetite too, I feed my clowns a frozen full spectrum food, with a little something for every fish, and it catches and consumes some of that. It is now over 7 inches in diameter ( I know they grow much larger and I can't wait) very sticky, very responsive to light.   But reading your articles on keeping anemones, it doesn't sound like the goldfish are a good idea, and could potentially cause the little guy more harm then good.
<Yes>
I was wondering if I should stop with the goldfish, and go back to Mysis/brine shrimp, or maybe kill the gold fish and cut them up first.
<Or silversides, cockles, many other choices... I would drop the goldfish>
Also I noticed it snagged my black ocellaris clown and after a few shakes from the fish it let go.  Is feeding it live fish making it more aggressive?  Thanks in advance.
<Possibly. Bob Fenner>

Re: New Set Up of Established Tank... Accommodating a Carpet Anemone in Bare-bottom 
Dear Bob,
<Jason>
Thanks for the feedback ...
<Welcome>
As a follow-up to the previous question, with a bare bottom MAIN tank, how should I handle my existing green magnificent carpet anemone? I mean, there is no sand!!
<Mmm, if it were me, mine, I would make a sand bed area for this animal... likely an all plastic or glass Pyrex cooking "pan"... with fine, calcareous sand (likely crushed coral)... that though it might look funky, will serve as substrate for this purpose>
Option 1: just place it on glass bottom.
Option 2: just place it on flat piece of rocks
Option 3: place it in a shallow plate with sand ... BUT might have issues with...
<This one>
a. sand spilling over to the bare bottom glass.
b. detritus collecting in the sand within the shallow plate.
c. anemone growing larger than the plate allow! Currently, it is already 1 foot across, and I heard it can be as large as 3 feet!!
<But base of foot/pedicle is only size concern... other issues not a big deal>
I really want to try out a bare bottom tank. However, the anemone is the ONLY reason why I am thinking otherwise!
Please advice, and thank you again.
Jason
<I would go the above route. Bob Fenner> 

Carpet Anemone...LFS's conflicting stories
To the wonderful crew at WWM,
<Hello there>
This is the first time I've e-mailed to ask a question, I have limited access to a computer but have researched as much as I can on the following topic, but my specific questions weren't answered. I do apologize if I missed the answer to my questions.... I did try to read as much as I could! 
<Good>
My husband's co-worker was given a short notice re-assignment and needed to move right away. He had a 55 gal fish tank. We currently have a 180 gallon and a 200 gallon fish-only aquariums. We've had these set-up for almost 2 years and have done well with them. Anyways, his co-worker knew we had aquariums and was in need of selling his fish. I'm fine with fish, but these were two black Percs that came with what he told us was a white Atlantic carpet anemone.
<... Atlantic Carpet...?>
He had already sold the aquarium and the live rock to another co-worker, he couldn't find anyone he trusted to purchase the Percs and the anemone (they come as a group). My husband said we would take them....we purchased a SeaClear System II 30 gallon show aquarium (built-in wet/dry filtration)...
<Do keep your eye on water quality with this system... as you will know, the SeaClear integral filter systems are undersized, trouble to work on/with... better to look into either adding other gear on, basically ignoring the II gear, or get another rig altogether>
...just for them, no plans to add any other livestock. We worked a deal with the LFS to hold on to the fish/anemone until the tank was cycled. I've never dealt with a tank this small.... we let the tank cycle with a half bag of crushed coral and one 20lb bag of live sand and about 15lbs of pre-cured live rock for about 5 weeks. (the sand bed is about 4" deep)
The anemone was added to the tank 3 weeks ago (with the Percs). Up to this point he's been on top of the rock that he's been on (he was moved into the LFS's tank, and then into my tank on the same piece of rock....he never did move from that spot on the rock from the original tank!) 
The tank is 30 gallons (36"x 12" x16 high) and he was about 4 inches from the top of the tank. The LFS does free water testing and always tells me my water parameters are perfect. 3 days ago my anemone moved for the first time to under the rock, away from the light. His white color turned mostly brown and his usually short plump tentacles turned longer and stringy...he looked as though he was barely hanging onto the rock. The LFS is telling me that I may have too much light for my white anemone....
<Mmm, highly unlikely... the brown color change is actually a step in the right direction>
...but from everything I've read on your site and others, I'm a bit confused on lighting for my specific anemone.
<Mmm, me too... actually re the species identification outright... there are indeed some "carpet" anemones from the tropical West Atlantic... and Clownfishes will at times/places establish symbiotic relations with some of these... but...>
The previous owner stated that they had regular lights (whatever that means) and the LFS had normal (old/poor quality) lights. We purchased a Dual Satellite Compact which Includes Dual Daylight 6,700°K/10,000°K and Dual Actinic 420nm/460nm bulbs. I turn the actinic on about 1100am, the daylight on about noon and turn off the daylight about 11pm and turn off the actinic around midnight, when the actinic goes off the lunar light stays on for another 2 hours (ish, whenever my puppies wake me up). This has been the routine since we took them home. Sorry I'm rambling, I just want what's best for the anemone...the Percs seem to be doing fine and the anemone does look a little better, he is still eating and his tentacles have plumped up a bit, but he is still brownish. (I feed a variety of food...squid, plankton, Mysis, formula 1 and 2, Special VHO, gamma, salt-water multipack stuff too...all soaked in Selcon or Vita-Chem). I don't currently have a skimmer, still looking for one a good one...any suggestions?
<Many... a small Remora (Aqua-C) highest>
I've seen what "not to buy" listed on your site! If you could please advise on the lighting I would greatly appreciate it. 
<What you have/state is fine for all species possible... I would switch out one of the actinics to another "white" lamp in future>
Also, my LFS is a fairly new business, the old FS packed up and moved away.  They tell me that the only pertinent tests are PH, Nitrate, Nitrite and Oxygen....I am planning on getting my own test kit soon since we now have the anemone.  Could there be another factor contributing to my anemone's behavior? Any advice you have would be greatly welcomed. 
<I would add alkalinity and phosphate to the above test kit list... The behavior you have described is fine... water quality may be slipping per the small volume, inadequate filtration...>
Thank you and have a wonderful day,
New Anemone Owner :) 
PS - sorry about the length of this e-mail...just trying to give some background!
<Delightful to read. Pleased to meet with another intelligent, sensitive fishkeeping person. Bob Fenner> 

Re: Carpet Anemone...LFS's conflicting stories
Thank you so much for your response. The anemone still hasn't moved,
<It shouldn't if it's "happy" where it is>
but with partial water changes and the addition of a skimmer, looks much better. I am new to "water changes" as my LFS (the one that packed up and moved, as well as the newly established one) assured us that they were not needed and that they never performed them. 
<Mmm, they won't be in business for long>
After reading up on your website I've learned otherwise! We've only performed two water changes to our 180 and 200 gallon FO aquariums and that was almost a year ago when we moved (and we saved most of the tank water). This would probably explain the numerous problems we just started noticing (almost 3 years later). PH is consistently around 7.7 in the 180 and 8.0 in the 200. Regardless of how much buffer is added. 
(I've also learned on your site that I need to perform "hardness" tests before I continue to buffer the heck out of my tanks and throw them even more off balance.) 
All current fish are/have been active...recent problem with 16" lionfish not eating. The local fish stores only offer guppies and goldfish. The old fish store had Rosie's...but not the current one. When one store closed it was 6 weeks before another opened...during that 6-week period my husband and I tried desperately to swap our lion over to frozen/fresh food with no avail...6 weeks. He accepted one piece of krill, on accident, it was quickly spit back out! I've been reading over lionfish feeding on your website but knowing that my fish would rather starve to death than eat anything that does not breathe...what are my options?
<Other live marine organisms>
Are there marine fish that I should purchase for consumption...I know that may be an expensive route, but I know that the goldfish are probably killing him.... any suggestions? We've tried numerous times to change to frozen/fresh by using string, clear chopsticks, etc....he won't even eat a feeder fish if it's near death (from salt) or if any other fish in the tank touches it first. 
Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated! On another note...we have millions of copepods/amphipods? In the 180. The 180 houses 1-8" porcupine puffer, 1-8" dogface puffer, 1-10" blonde Naso tang (who up until today, feasted on romaine lettuce...I'll be heading to the store for Nori today), and 1- 16" lionfish.... we don't have any live rock or sand....could these be a cause for high nitrates? Is it ok to have them in the tank? I currently cannot add any fish to the tank...parameters are not acceptable for new fish...the others have been in the tank since it cycled almost three years ago...new fish don't survive! PH too low/nitrates too high...LFS, no help at all! 3-years into the trade and learning beginner tricks of the trade...don't I feel uneducated!...your website is just awesome, slowly but surely I'm learning!! 
<Keep reading!>
Thank you again for your response in regards to the anemone....I'm still wondering what type of anemone it is...pretty sure it's NOT an Atlantic carpet! :) 
<Me too. Bob Fenner>

Carpet anemone and green star polyps
Hello!
I have been reading the FAQs trying to find some info. I recently bought a green carpet anemone. It was very sticky when I bought it but has lost much of its stick. I have it in a tank with two types of green star polyp (I think one is Briareum and the other is Pachyclavularia) some mushrooms, a small colony of zoanthids and two clownfish.
When the lights are off the anemone opens up and looks fine. When the lights are on the anemone shrinks down and its mouth is partly open. All tests are in the perfect ranges, pH 8-8.6, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, calcium 425, KH 11. Nitrates are slightly higher then I would like but not too bad (waiting to get a new test kit as the one I am using is old and may not be giving me correct readings). I have 6 watts per gal of PC lights. What could be the problem? Could it be chemical warfare from the green star? I have read that they can be aggressive. The anemone is nowhere near the green star. Everything else in the tank is doing fine. Please help!!! 
<Six watts PC per gallon? A lot depends on the depth of your tank. These anemones are difficult to keep with all conditions good, and they do much better under halide lighting.  Even with a shallower tank, 6 watts/gallon really isn't enough for these guys to thrive for any length of time. Please read, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemlgtgfaq3.htm. James (Salty Dog)><<This is little doubt, a case of chemical incompatibility between all this cnidarian life... the size of the system is not stated, but all the water gets mixed about... I would remove this anemone, post haste, to another system. Bob Fenner>>

Carpet anemone
Hello!
I recently, about a week and a half ago, bought a green carpet anemone (S. haddoni). When I bought it , it was very sticky. I have fed it some pieces of shrimp. It isn't as sticky as it was when I got it and isn't taking food eagerly. I have 6 watts per gallon of PC lighting over the tank. I have plenty of water flow in the tank. It has not moved from its initial position in the tank and is attached. Sometimes its mouth is slightly opened (not gapping open) and has some parts protruding slightly. Is this normal while the anemone adjusts to its new tank? If not what could be the cause? What can I do to assure the survival of the anemone or at least make a whole- hearted attempt to bring the anemone to good health? 
<Doug, unfortunately you selected one of the most difficult anemones to keep for any length of time. I suggest that you read the link I will post here. This should provide you with everything you're looking for. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm  Good luck with your carpet. James (Salty Dog)> 

Carpet Anemone ID
Hey Wet Web People...
<Discriminating against extraterrestrials, are we?  The shame!>
I bought a carpet anemone...sadly I for once didn't look up your website and wonder if I will regret it now.  They are cheap here in Bangkok and I got suckered in (US$8) as it looked healthy and well coloured.
<Starting off with a healthy specimen is half the battle, but PLEASE do your research before impulse buying!  Life should not be measured by the cost of acquiring it>
I am not sure what species of carpet it is.
<Most likely Stichodactyla haddoni or Stichodactyla Gigantea...can you get a picture of it, especially a pic of it's mouth?>
The colouration is a soft pinky burgundy base and the tentacles are light green.  Its about 7 inch wide.  Also very sticky.  Is it gigantea?
<See above.  Stickiness is a good sign though, make sure you feed it often>
Are all carpets fish eaters?  I have seen tanks with them with fish in the past...it's one hell of an ordeal to get LFS to take stock back here so I am hoping not to.  The tank occupants are two pipe fish - Doryrhamphus sp.. (black snout/orange front to the body/blue back section with a black tail with a white central patch and rim?), a clarkii clown, and sifting goby of some variety. Other than the clown, I am guessing they aren't the best tank mates with one of these.
<Yes they are, and expect to lose all of your fish eventually except for the clarkii, especially the pipe fish.  Do you have adequate lighting, space, and water flow for your new anemone?  They like bright light, you will need halides or natural sunlight to keep one long term.  Make sure you keep it well fed also, with shredded\small pieces (1\4") of fresh seafoods>
Thanks for the advice
<Anytime>
Brett Moloney
<M. Maddox>
Bangkok
<Aym ah Texan>

Carpet anemone
Hi,  <How goes it?> thanks for any help you can give me on this as I read through your
site and could find nothing that pertains. <Let us add something to the archive then> We have a 90 gallon reef,
with mostly soft corals, a Midas blenny, assorted cleaning crew, about
120 pounds of live rock, 2 maroon clowns and a fantastic green carpet
anemone we've had for about a year. Our salinity is 1.024, <might want to bump that to 1.025> our PH 8.4
and 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates, 0 nitrites. <all good>  We are running a sump with a
Berlin protein skimmer and a MD 40 xlt Iwaki pump. Our lighting is power
compacts, 4 at 65 watts each. <Ack!  Not enough light, at all...and no halides?!  You need to upgrade your lighting before your anemone eventually succumbs> Since we've upgraded from a 75 gallon tank
about a month ago, the anemone sucks itself down under the rocks every
few days and we have to disassemble the one side of the reef to get it
out.  <It may just be stressed from the move> The two maroon clowns are hosting in it and it is very
healthy...the mouth is firm and it eats like a horse <at least you've been feeding it a lot, as that's why it's still alive>...Mysis and
Cyclop-Eeze being the main foods fed to the tank. The anemone seems
completely healthy and is well taken care of by the clowns <Clowns never really take care of an anemone, besides sometimes scaring off potential predators> and never
seems to be in any distress before it sucks itself down into the rocks.
The foot is firmly planted and it has good color...Any way we can stop
him from moving down under the rocks?  <What kind of carpet anemone is it?  Some like to have their foot buried in the sand, and that may be what it's trying to do> Can he get himself out again or do
we have to keep up the rescue operations? <I would leave him be and watch what happens, unless it's a haddoni or another carpet species that prefers sand> He is in almost the exact same
place as he was in the 75 gallon and we never had this problem then. Any
help would be greatly appreciated.  <Definitely look into purchase some metal halide lighting for your anemone.  Slowly acclimate it to the new lighting (check our archives for how) and make sure it isn't a carpet species that prefers sand> Marcye, Orlando <M. Maddox>

Another saddle carpet anemone AWOL
Hi
I have a issue regarding my carpet anemone.  It is in a 46 gallon bow aquarium, w/ 2x96 watt VHO and 175w MH.  I feed him every other day, ground up misc. seafood (shrimp, perch, squid) Mysid shrimp and occasional live brine shrimp and black worms.  Water tests are fine and I did a 20% water change on Friday as I do every other week with R/O water.  I test my water myself and occasionally I take samples to my LFS and everything is inside the normal range. Nitrate is usually undetectable. <How about Ca and Alk?>
I've had him about 13 months.  The past two weeks it has gone crazy eating fish--3 clowns, a lawn mower blenny, maybe a damsel.
<All anemones are predators, and carpet anemones have some of the most powerful stings of all of them.  I have lost several shrimps and a couple of fish to mine.  These are definitely not community tank animals.>
I now have a tank with 100 lbs of live rock, xenia and a Chromis, and one beautiful, green anemone, about 10".
<Hmmm...  I am a bit suspicious here.  Who identified the anemone?  Although green saddle anemones (Stichodactyla haddoni) do come into the aquarium trade, they are unusual.  There is a similar looking Caribbean anemone that is also unusual in the trade, but (being Caribbean), is not a natural clownfish host.... and it is a vicious predator.  See Delbeek and Sprung, "The Reef Aquarium, Vol 2" and/or Fautin and Allen's "Anemonefishes and their host sea anemones" to try and properly ID your anemone.>
I've been pondering getting rid of him.  Although I was willing to dedicate my only  tank to it--I at least wanted to be able to keep some clowns or something, otherwise it just is not worth it.  I've struggled, knowing that if I trade it in--most likely will not get the same level of care and lights, maybe not enough to survive.
<Good to see that you are providing proper care and don't want the animal to fall into less caring hands.  Your local aquarium society can be of great help here.>
Today he is missing.  Somehow he has berried himself under the gravel/sand in the tank.  It is only 1.5" deep and he is under it.  He did this all  within the last hour. He has never moved before. I wondering if it is complications from eating such large food, or if he is just dying as so many anemone's long term do.  Should I leave it or try to fetch it from the tank?
<Both S. haddoni and the Caribbean look alike are capable of withdrawing completely into the sand (although into 1.5" is surprising) as well as wandering the tank.  Be sure it is not on the move (inevitably toward a powerhead, drain or pump inlet).  They do this occasionally as a response to disturbance or sometimes for no reason at all.>
Honestly I'm done with anemones--everyone out there--they are too much of a pain, even if you do everything seemingly right? Thanks.  Jennifer Von Canon  <How very true.  Just like any animal, they have specific needs and certain problems associated with their care.  Unfortunately, they are exaggerated compared to many other animals.  Best Regards.  AdamC>
 

Yellow vs. Green carpet anemone Hello Bob, <Steve> I am curious, why does every authority state that this anemone should be green. It has been yellow for Two years! Thanks Steve <Well, you and I will state otherwise. Have seen this carpet in quite a few colors, including yours here... in the wild and captivity. Can even change color due to lighting, feeding, water quality, perhaps other factors. Bob Fenner>

Anemone troubles?
Howdy Crew,
Looking for some info on Stichodactyla tapetum.  Found one attached to a
colony of pipe organ. I thought it was a Ricordea  and chipped it off to
give it (and the pipe organ) some breathing room. << No real need to chip it off. >> But when it stuck to my
fingers, I thought it a bit odd an looked it up.   I'm not positive but
from the bit of info I did find, Stichodactyla tapetum seemed to fit the
bill.  The poor fellow doesn't look so happy after his move.   What kind of
lighting do they prefer? << Lighting is big.  Lots of light, whole spectrum.  Also they eat anything.  I feed them krill and silversides. >> Any favorite foods? << Leftovers. >> I'd like to place the little
guy ~20" directly under a 150W MH.   This is~4" deeper, but more direct
than where I found it. << Well it will move around. So don't get set on a particular place. >>  Of course,  if it's not happy it I guess it will up
and move ( will it??) << Yep. >>.  Thanks for your help.
-matt
<<  Blundell  >>

Responsible Anemone/Scallop Keeping 8/12/04
Hi there! It's been awhile since I've had a question come up, so here I am. ;]
<we've been waiting with bells on>
I recently got a deep blue carpet anemone. I'm in love. ;]
<this is an illegal relationship in most civilized countries>
It is very sticky, the foot is in perfect condition, and it ate a chunk of food on the first day!  I have it in a tank with lots of light and very good flow.
<all good>
My main question is how can you tell the difference between S. haddoni and S. gigantea?  
<listen for the accent in their speech betraying the locale of their origin/speciation.>
Do S. haddoni come in blue as well?  
<yep... RIT brand dyed fresh from some charming Indo exporters>
I have two rock/flower anemones that are near the carpet (3 inches away) but not touching.  Will this be a problem?  
<I expect the carpet will stress or kill these in time>
Everybody seems happy at the moment. Do pink skunk clowns take to carpet anemones?
<the answer to this question, as with the details of speciation between anemones (like the tentacle-free distinction around the mouth of S. haddoni) and so much more is waiting for you in our archives. We work hard to build this database... please do make the effort to use it and help yourself. There's a clownfish/anemone compatibility chart ta boot:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
be sure to follow the many other links atop these pages>
I feed all of my anemones (3 flowers, RBTA, green BTA) a mixture of live plankton and Prime Reef/Frozen Brine shrimp by Formula foods.  They all seem very happy and are growing.  
Is this an acceptable diet for the carpet anemone as well?
<seem weak to me... the phyto is of dubious value for the carnivorous anemones (they feed on zooplankton principally)... and brine shrimp is a truly hollow food (barely useful even if gut loaded). Please do add better variety here with 4-6 other meats of marine origin. Shredded cocktail shrimp, Mysid shrimp, Pacifica plankton... minced krill... and fish eggs (grouper roe from the LFS or flying fish eggs from an Asian groceria... excellent food for such filter feeders)>
Thanks for everything!  Morgan Mok
ps: Just as an update for the naysayers and the "blind squirrel people", my red flame scallop is over 1 1/2 years old in my system. ;p
<Morgan... you do understand that we are here to serve the greater good in the hobby? I hope you are too. Encouraging the majority of aquarists to keep inappropriate animals like flame scallops just because less than 1% survive over one year is... well... irresponsible. Unless you can clearly explain and document how yours lived to 18 months (still not much of an accomplishment when many simply take longer to slowly starve via a small daily deficit in nutrition as from brine shrimp feedings over time... and all have a natural lifespan on a scale of magnitude much longer!), let me ask... rather, beg (!) that you do not casually promote the keeping of flame scallops or the like as if its a lottery, and telling people the equiv. of "you might win too!". The truth is that most lose... and these are living creatures lives lost... not lottery tickets. Your fave naysayer, perhaps... Anthony :) >

Responsible Anemone/Scallop Keeping II 8/13/04
Hi Anthony, First, I tried to find info about carpet anemone differences in the FAQs/articles and couldn't find anything, therefore I sent a question.  
<no worries... but it was all sitting on that first page. The archives are huge though, understood>
I asked about the skunk clown cause I saw a couple different compatibility charts and wanted to be sure.
<OK>
Don't worry, I warn anyone interested in keeping flame scallops, Tubastrea, and tube anemones about the high maintenance quality of these corals.  I don't ever encourage the casual reefer to keep these or other corals.  
<ahhh... very good to hear>
I just had to give you a raspberry and let you know how my scallop was doing.  You gave me such a hard time originally and called me a "blind squirrel". ;]  
<perhaps still mate ;) Many filter feeders can hang on for over a year or even longer still starving slowly. Without evidence of growth or reproduction... victory on such species living decades is not assured yet <G>>
I can't say exactly why I have had success with it.  I know people that grow their own rotifers and can't keep flame scallops.  
<indeed... many filter feeders need very specific sized zoo- or phyto plankters>
I use the previously mentioned (live phyto (the one I use has 7 diff types, that's what it says)
<truly nifty... good to hear>
prime reef, frozen brine shrimp by the same people, blood worms, and Spirulina chunk) marine soup to feed my corals, anemones, etc.  My DSB is 5-6 inches and 9+ years old.  Good lighting, flow, and a euro-reef skimmer.  Is this a recipe for success?
<dunno... time will tell. But sounds very nice to me>
I don't know, but my corals all grow well, my plate coral is huge (7 inches) and eats like a pig (it has turned from green to almost a solid purple), my flower anemone is 6-7inches wide when open, and my flame scallop has survived in my system for over a year and half.  
I'll probably switch to Hikari foods and get a much larger tank in time, but everything else will stay the same.  My question is, how many years will I have to have my flame scallop before I am "successful"? hehe I collected it myself btw.  
<a subjective valuation... but anything over 3 would be outstanding by hobby standards. Honestly, even over 2 is quite good IMO. Aside from he much longer natural lifespan of these invertebrates. You are on your way>
I totally understand your need to chide people for getting corals with a high mortality rate.  So many people kill animals because their LFS says they're easy to keep, etc.  I don't own an elegance, can't keep pink tipped Heliofungia (sniff), no dendro or chili coral,  etc.
<you can keep the latter easily if you'd care to try it. Anyone diligent enough to feed rotifers or baby brine shrimp can. They are quite hardy if fed regularly>
However I am glad I tried to keep a flame scallop and I have a patch of bright orange colonial tunicates that are doing great (turtle grass tunicates).  Life is about experimentation and I agree that these corals are lives not just lottery tickets, but reef keeping is a continually developing hobby that requires some careful experimentation to figure out animals' limits and abilities within our systems.
<yes... agreed. Careful experimentation>
I guess I have a blue haddoni??  The pics aren't the best and the anemone closed some when I moved the rock to take the pics.  It is usually open and rufflly.  Other pic is anemones and orange colonial tunicates (take my word for it). ha! One last question, do you run aquadesignz? Just curious.  
<nope... not sure what that is?>
Feel free to edit this e-mail if you're going to post it. ;]
<we edit nothing my friend beyond personal info and inappropriate language. Free speech!>
Very nice talking with you.  Have a nice weekend! Morgan
<to you in kind... best regards :) Anthony>

Feeding Carpet Anemone 7/26/04
I recently purchased a Stichodactyla haddoni(3 weeks) I read  several articles and it was recommended to feed it fish. I at first had tried shrimp and then got some frozen silversides.
<this is inaccurate and way too large IMO. Although this sightless animal will sting anything meaty/proteinaceous... they cannot consume all. They often regurgitate large food chunks at night and starve to death to the surprise of some keepers. All meaty foods need to be very fine for such anemones... like the tiny plankton they would receive in the wild. Mysid shrimp and Pacifica plankton work well for this>
He grabs both and closes up around the pieces but then lets go and does not ingest them.
<this is common... and not good for the anemone>
I saw a snail or a hermit trapped the other night, could he have eaten that?
<yes>
Can they digest a small shell?
<nope... regurgitate>
Might he just not be hungry?
<on the contrary... it needs fed weekly or more often>
Do you have any other feeding suggestions? He otherwise appears OK. He has dug a nice hole on the edge of the LR and inflates to about 6". Retracts fine and is very "sticky". Tank is 75g, sg 1.026, 79 F, Alk 3.5, Ph 8.2,  2 x 175 MH and 2 x 96 CF.
Thanks.
<all good. Anthony>

Carpet anemone question
Hello, <Hi> I am a frequent reader and this is my first time submitting a question to you guys. I was interested in purchasing a carpet anemone for my false Percula. I currently have a 30 gallon tank with 25 lbs. of live rock some mushroom corals and a blue devil damsel also about a 3.5 in. sand bed tank has been running for almost two years for filtration I have a CPR USA Bak Pak protein skimmer and biofilter it is powered by a Maxijet 1200 295gph and I have a Rio 90 for circulation. As for my lighting I currently have a Coralife 65 watt 50/50 10000k and actinic. I also have 3 20 watt minis at 6700k, and 2. 20 watt 10 wpf fluorescent bulbs one actinic and one 10000k a total of 165 watts. my water parameters are steady. my question is, in your opinion with the information that I have provided, would it be safe for me to invest in a carpet anemone for my clown. <My concerns are two fold on the anemone. I am very concerned about how big they get. They are known to get huge. Secondly they put out a lot of waste and that could be a very big problem in a 30 gallon tank.> I would really enjoy watching him swim in it. thank you for your time. Oh one more thing do you think I have enough light to keep (SPS) and (LPS) corals in my tank. <The general rule for SPS and LPS is about 4 watts per gallon. In my opinion its also about spectrum, and making sure you have the correct spectrums for what you wish to keep.>

Stichodactyla haddoni coloring 
Hello All, <hello! Ryan with you> 
Foremost, thanks for your site. I have a simple question. I have a Stichodactyla haddoni. 
<Common name Haddon's Sea Anemone, for the search engine> 
Oddly he/she/it is yellow...a somewhat large (about the "flat" size of a new pencil) <Gotcha> Its yellow...not green.  I have it in a 85G with two true Perc's.  The tank is 3yrs old w/120 lbs of LR  Water Q. is excellent.  The light I'm giving it (I did research prior) is from PC's 
2x96 watt 10K 
2x36 watt 10K 
2x36 Actinic 
TW=336 watts /85= 3.95 WPG 
<somewhat on the lower side of anemone requirements, but I'm sure he would move to a higher level in the tank if it wasn't reasonable> 
Bulbs are changed every 180 days.  Why hasn't it changed to green ( I heard yellow is the "its not getting sufficient light color")? <Hmmm....some of these creatures are a more yellow/brown in their tone. You may just have one that isn't predisposed to a green tint. Color is often indicative of which part of the reef they were collected.> 
The little tentacles sparkle and move around.. it seems happy, never moves. <Then I would say he will be more beautiful in time, but don't have your heart set on green. I encourage you to feed a variety of foods- and fresh if possible. Bob has a recipe in CMA that works very well, and will only benefit your tenants. Good luck, Ryan> 
A tad of insight please. Thanks.

Blue Carpet Anemone
I am interested in purchasing the blue carpet anemone. The literature I have on it says it is for experts only. I have been experimenting with several different things in my 180 gal. tank and have been quite successful. This anemone is quite expensive and I don't want to try it if the chances are too slim of it surviving. What do you think about it? Although I read through wet web media very often, this is my first time asking a question so please bare with me. If any other information is needed please et me know. <Please send along all of your info, what type and how much lighting, other tank inhabitants, water params...  These guys definitely take some special attention and pristine water conditions.  I would also (if you haven't already) try some of the hardier anemones such as the bubble tip.  Cody>Thanks, Carol & Tom

Blue Carpet Anemone II
Cody, <Hello again!>
Thanks for responding so quickly on our question about the blue carpet anemone.
The type of lighting we have is 3 - 250 watt metal halide lights which are going to be installed in the next few days. We've just purchased them) We just recently (appx. 1 week ago) set up our 180 gal tank which was transferred from a 150 gal tank. The 150 was a 150 tall, which I hated due to the fact of it being so hard to reach the bottom to clean. Anyway the halide lights are getting installed into the canopy along with a Coralife power compact light, which was our main source of lighting since we started our tank. We were told we could dismantle the Coralife from the outer casing and put that into the canopy too. I'm hoping that will be plenty of light to keep all the varieties of things we want. (what do you think ?) <Should be plenty of light for most things.>As far as what we like and what we already have. We have a leather coral, A Goniopora, some rock mushrooms, xenias, a trumpet coral & we're now experimenting with a blue maxima clam,( although we were told our light source wasn't enough,) we wanted it so we got it anyway! <In the future please hold off on these types of purchases, if you want to be in this hobby 5 years down the road we all have to do what we can to be a conscientious aquarist.>Also we have tiny sun coral,<Make sure you are feeding this guy at least 3 times a week.> some feather dusters, a duster cluster, hammerhead coral, rock flower anemone, and a couple bubble anemones,(1 with a fire clown.)<I would not put these mobile anemones in your tank with sessile corals as it almost always ends with the anemone stinging the corals to death.> The Fish we have are, Yellow, Sailfin, hippo & powder blue tangs,<Watch all these guys closely as you will likely have to remove one or two of these guys in the future.> along with a coral beauty, a wrasse fish 2 small blue damsels.  We have a blood shrimp and the coral bandit shrimp for cleaning as well as lots of snails and hermit crabs. I think that is just about all we have in the tank. As far as what we like I guess there's no 1 certain group of things. It's just what looks cool to us and we like lots of different colors. For the most part the tank is doing great (in our eyes anyway). <Please research before you buy though.>Ya, we've lost a lot of things, mostly fish, due to moving to fast but we didn't care at that point in time. <Eeiiikkkk.  Please don't say you didn't care.  If you don't please realize that because of not caring you will not be able to enjoy these wonderful creatures in the future because the worlds reefs are in danger.>Our tank is not even a year old yet but we believe you learn more from trial & error rather than going by "the book". But now it's becoming a bit of a different story. Whenever things don't survive we feel as if it's because we're doing something wrong. But that doesn't stop us from trying other things.  One thing I'm super confused about is liquid supplements. When you mention pristine water conditions how is one to know exactly what that is? We have Iodine, Snow flakes, Calcium, Cora - Vita & Strontium & Molybdenum. Although all the bottles say to put x amount per gals of water, everyone I've talked to says not to pay attention to what the bottle says but just put 1 cap full in once a week on different days of the week. Now from reading a lot I believe than no one certain way is the only right way, but I can't seem to get the same advice from more than one person. We don't want to put to little in but then again I don't even know what too little or too much is. Any helpful advice on all matters including, lighting, supplements, water conditions etc... would be greatly appreciated.<Please do some reading on our site: www.wetwebmedia.com and then if you still have any questions give me a holler.  Cody>        
Carol & Tom

Lighting a S. haddoni
Hi,<Hello, Ryan with you today> I am wondering if  I have enough lighting to support the anemone.  I
believe that it is a S. Haddoni as it is bright green with stubby tentacles and it
is about 10" or so across.  We have a 90 gal community reef 48x24x24 with a
wave shaped front.  Our current lighting is 2, 40w 03 actinics, 2, 65w  pc
SmartLite bulbs, and 2, 10000K 65w pc bulbs all in 48" hooded design.  Is this
enough to sustain the anemone. <Almost 4 watts per gallon...I'd say he has a good chance of success> Currently it has moved from where I originally
placed it about 3/4 the way up in the tank to about the 1/2 point or even a
little lower. <He'll move again> It at least is facing the front of the tank and looks totally
awesome.  It is curled and tends to swell way up and go down every 10 to 15 min at
first but lately it does it about every hour.  Since I put it in the tank
yesterday it may still be adjusting to the tank.  water quality is good probably
thanks to 100# of live rock and two Eheim pro II 92 gal tank filters with a
remora hang on skimmer. <Great, feed him chopped clams, shrimp, etc.  Good luck! Ryan> Any help will be appreciated as I am a rookie. Kevin

Carpet Issues?
>Hi everyone,
>>Hello Andrea.  Marina here.
>I hate to do this but I am truly worried about the carpet anemone I got about 5 days ago.
>>What do you hate to do?  Ask a question or three?  It's why we're here!
>I have a 100 gal tank with approx 125 lbs LR and a 2 1/2-3 inch LS bed.  It has a Remora pro skimmer, a canister filter and multiple power heads.  The inhabitants are: 3 pajama cardinals, 1 algae blenny, 1 mandarin goby, 1 Percula clown, 1 stripped shrimp goby of some sort, 1 fairy wrasse, various types of polyps, a bubble tip anemone, a smaaaallll piece of gorgonian (less than an inch), various types of mushrooms and now a carpet anemone and the
crab that lives on it. Oh yes, and a couple of hermit crabs and a billion baby snails.
>>Ok.
>It has looked fine up until the day before yesterday when my husband forgot to turn on the lights in the morning. We had a timer system, then he got me a Coralife light with 2 10,000K and 2 actinic bulbs that wouldn't work with the timer (too powerful for it) and the lights were off until about noon when I came home.  
>>This is absolutely NOT a problem.  The problem with carpet anemones is much more so that they seem to do dismally poorly in home systems (require pristine water quality, from what I understand feeding is more important than lighting, though lighting IS important).
>The anemone was lying on its side for hours but finally stood up again by the end of the day.
>>It is not unusual for any anemone to spend a few hours to a full day, day and a half deflated and looking as though they're recovering from a bender.
>Now it has laid down on its side a couple of times since then, and at this moment it is slumped over its rock and is totally deflated!  
>>It is at this point that I'm more concerned about water quality, HOWEVER, you are not outside the window of normal behavior, especially if you do directly feed.  (Have you seen it exuding waste?  Does it appear to be disintegrating anywhere at all?)
>I feed a mixture of frozen Mysis shrimp, BioPlankton and invert food but it has never really looked like it has eaten anything that I can tell.  
>>Try chunks of fish, squid, krill, shrimp.  These anemones have such powerful nematocysts precisely to catch and kill larger creatures.
>The tank is 24" tall and it is on the sand bed.
>What am I doing wrong?  
>>See above, test results are important, and when in doubt, DO A WATER CHANGE.  (That's my mantra, along with QUARANTINE)
>My bubble tip has done so well that it has split about 5 times since I got it more than 3 years ago.  
>>Wow, well it's good to know that you're not completely new at this anemone thing, but BTAs are a bit easier than carpets.
>I am totally at my wits end.  please help...it would be sooo appreciated. thanks in advance.  Andrea Brown
>>Don't panic just yet, remember, all animals are shipped in darkness, this DEFINITELY won't cause harm, especially only a few hours' worth.  Try the feeding, and do watch the water quality closely.  Marina

Carpet Anemone with crab problems - 12/9/03
oh yeah, your reply on the carpet....  no nibbling from the crabs.  I had a large crab, and it
took a huge chunk out of it, as well as swallowed a feather duster one lonely night. <Hmmm. What kind of crab??> As you might think, the large crab is no longer with me......<understood if you are sure the crab was a the likely suspect>  Since then (about 4 weeks), the carpet anemone has stared growing it's tentacles back. <Fantastic! ~Paul>
GR

Carpet anemone problem 11/26/03
I just bought a carpet anemone two days ago and today it started to form a bubble in its mouth and its body didn't look so good it was kind of leaning over and my boyfriend thought it was dying but I told him to leave it in the tank just to see what would happen but I wanted to know is that normal to get an anemone and have the mouth puff up or no. I need to know so I don't come home and have everything in my tank dead     please write back thanks Lori
<hmm... the symptom does not elicit any specific concern with me. Let me guide you to our articles and FAQs where something might catch your attention:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
please notice the many links at the top of this page to follow for ever so much more information. Best regards, Anthony>

Anemone questions 10/18/03
Hi Bob, Anthony, et able...
<Hola>
I have read a lot of different things on your site about anemones
and inverts, amongst other topics and much of what you say makes sense, and some things you have spoke about I have experienced first hand. I hope you can forgive me for the length of this, but there is a lot to tell you so you can better answer my questions as I have many.
<Okey-dokey>
I have a haddoni carpet, and I must say it has been through a lot of things, but in the year and a half I have had it, I am pleased to say it has grown from when I bought it.
<FWIW, do realize that many anemones and corals appear to "grow" but instead are simply panning for light as bulbs age and water clarity darkens from lack of weekly carbon/ozone over time (months)>
If you could get the thing to lay flat, the diameter would be somewhere around 9-10 inches (or what I can ascertain through the glass with a tape measure) and it was around 7 inches before when I got it. Despite my success on that aspect, and given the fact that many hobbyists can't keep a given species of one of these creatures for that long, my success has not been without problems in between. Here is October, since May or so I have had some problems with my tank, and my anemone "seems" to be OK, and I don't know if the way it has been acting was due to any single one thing or a combination of problems. When I moved from FL to where I am now, I put everything in 5 gallon buckets, and from an 80+ temp, the water temp dropped to a chilly 68. I noticed some white spots around the crown of my anemone, and I was scared as I knew this was not good. I immediately got my tank setup, started the power heads to get some O2 going, and of course turn the heater on. The anemone started to settle in its place in the tank, and
it would move around, so it did survive. It took some time for the
tissue to heal, and in time its tentacles even came back.
<good to hear>
When it eats now, I notice as parts of the crown (that were damaged) act as arms, and that part of the anemone inflates to grab food, it looks clear, and the tentacles tend to disappear. However at rest, you could not tell that there was damage to the same parts of the crown. Other parts of the crown that were not damaged sometimes appear to be the same in appearance, so I wonder if the damage done is permanent, or its just going to take forever to heal?
<it will heal in time>
Is it just my imagination and I am in panic mode? It took a few weeks or so for it to look normal and as each day went, it showed improvement. It ate like you would not believe.
<healing an reproduction tend to be slow in these animals>
After that, I had another issue. The center of the critter
inflated like the oral disc does during feeding, but I was not feeding. At the time I added a sebae clown to it, and I noticed this swell. Time went on, it got worse and not better. I did a water change, and it got worse quicker. I had 4 theories as to the cause of this, 1 was reproduction as I was seeing signs consistent with what is noted in the breeders registry and my water params are close to what Dr. Shimek (sp) has (which I know you disagree with),
<indeed... high reef temps are dangerous to recommend to most aquarists.>
the other theory was infection from my sick clown I just added,
<nope... not communicable to this/any cnidarian>
and the third theory said the classic Ca/alk issue,
<irritating if inconsistent>
and the 4th said I over fed the thing. This thing has at
times eaten as much as a quarter of a pound of cleaned squid in a week!
<this is a common mistake... feeding chunks that are too large. Harmful to even some large anemones. Fine minced meats akin to phytoplankton only please>
Possibility 1 is rare, so I was not leaning so much towards that. I
figured later on that a spoonful of fish for a critter twice the size of mine a day was sufficient let alone a quarter pound of squid a week. I then decided to explore the other theory of the Ca and alk problem. My a was off the test kit chart, my alk was next to nothing, and my pH was in the high 7's, and had been for a while.
<yikes!>
So I figured this could be the issue,
<don't make this a habit>
and as far as eating, the thing could not take in food as
much as it wanted to because the oral disc or gut was so inflated it was unreal.
<there is also the matter of the clownfish itself simply being irritating. There is no benefit to keeping a clownfish in well fed anemones. Some are quite irritating>
After a few weeks I got my alkalinity under control and eased up on
the Ca considerably, and all appears to be well on that. My alk is
around 9 dKH, and Ca unknown. The coralline is growing, so something must be right. So anyway, this thing is still inflated to hell, and it is not getting better but worse. The oral disc and the lips for lack of a better description inflated to softball size. I read some things on the breeders registry that said for that specimen consistent with what I was seeing. My critter stood erect, and the softball size inflation was consistent with this. I also noted that a nylon or silky looking substance was excreted from the oral disc, and it was tilted at an angle as it excreted this. These findings have been documented in the breeders
registry for  male specimens of haddoni carpets in captivity.
<understood/agreed>
My water parameters were the same as noted, and after the excrement, the tissue began to shrink.
<stress induced perhaps?>
It took some time for the tissue to shrink and get back to
normal, and then my lights went. I replaced 3 of my bulbs (240W of
fluoros for a 55 gallon), so that was about half of my lighting. I
upgraded from 1 actinic blue and 2 10,000K bulbs to 2 18,000K bulbs, and one appears to be a 6500K but I thought it was a 18,000K bulb.
<if your lamps were over 10 months old... I assure you that this was the biggest stress of all, and contributory to the size of your anemone/growth>
It showed an increased amount of improvement after a brief color change after this. It then looked a little pale in color until I moved a rock to let it open more, and its color came back really fast.   The mouth on it is still open, but I can see the gut is closed, and lately the mouth is not nearly as open as it was, and I would not consider it to be gaping. It seems to be more narrow and more elongated. I am thinking this could be a sign of it closing. It is sticky and it has accepted smaller feedings of cleaned squid for the past few days now. It is more open than it has been in a while. It seems to be closing more with the clown than before, but it is not totally closed. Is this normal with symbiotes?
<I question just how symbiotic the relationship is in many. Studies I have read show that less than half of all anemones that can host clowns even do. Again, not needed and possibly a source of irritation>
I have also noticed in the past when it would not eat that there seems to be a direct correlation between the stickiness and the correct alkalinity of my water. What have your experiences been on that aspect?
<no but interesting>
I am also noticing that some tentacles are becoming significantly
larger than usual or in comparison with the rest. The tentacles near the oral disc look like baby tentacles of a Condy anemone. Is this a sign of growth perhaps?
<perhaps>
When these things grow, do they grow from the crown out
or how?
<fissionary indeed>
I see no other abnormalities with my critter. I am seeing larger
folds in it when it sits in the tank, and depending on how it folds when it eats, I can see another cyclical fold on occasion. I can only presume that it is starting to grow even further, but it will take some months before there is anything more measurable.
As far as tank parameters go, this is a 55 gallon Berlin filtration
tank and I have experimented with Dr. Shimek's advice with no real
adverse affects that I can contribute to the temp issue.
<heehee... other than low dissolved oxygen and a sick looking anemone on a tank with a weak skimmer and a high DOC level. Sorry... I couldn't resist <G>>
I have a DSB, about 50 lbs of LR, 240W of fluoros, a Sea Clone 100 hang on skimmer, and 4 300gph power heads. My water temp used to be near 86, I have since backed it down to about 84, and everything in that tank has been like that for over a year now. The SG is typically between 1.026-1.028 pending evap, pH between 8.3-8.4, alk yesterday was 9dKH and in excess of 15dKH today (but I expect that will erode tomorrow as my lights will go off, and we know what happens).
<ahhh... got the dKH. Now... your RO water is definitely admitting minerals... or... your test kit is inaccurate... or ... you are adding way too much buffer>
I have never had a nitrate or ammonia problem since I moved the tank, but after that I have not had that issue. The fish look great, the clown is no longer sick, and the anemone looks really good now as it ever has for the most part. I am trying to get your insight at least on my anemone, and I know you don't agree with what Dr. Shimek says, however I have found some catches to it, and both your site and Shimek make valid and even overlapping points. If you do use a warmer temp (which I used as his haddoni carpet has bred in captivity in like water params), you can have
a disaster if you don't do other things correctly. However, if you keep your alk in check along with your Ca, that is one issue. The other issue is that you need some very serious current. As both you and Shimek point out, the rate of metabolism doubles with every 10 degrees centigrade increase in temp relative to a given temp.
<but why would you want to speed up an animals metabolism in a closed aquarium system with low DO and high DOCs not to mention a tank that is honestly too small for this animals and the amount of food fed/attempted each week plus other livestock. Add to this the high salinity (even lower DO/oxygen) and you have a problem IMO>
To compensate for such, you need more current to accommodate the speed of which the processes of your biological filtration are metabolizing at. If you don't, yes you will have a disaster on your hands.    My anemone is still growing, but as I have stated problems have come about. Luckily I intervened to prevent it from dying. I am just wondering what (if any) long term affects may be, or if there is not enough information to say either way.
<shorter lifespans too for the higher water temps>
Thanks for reading my novel of an email and in advance for your
opinion. Thank You, Joseph
<very thoughtful Joseph... wishing you the best of luck. Anthony>