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FAQs about Fishes and Invertebrates, aka FOWLR Marine System
Livestocking
4 Related Articles: Fishes and Invertebrates Marine Set-ups,
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LR Lighting,
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Plumbing, Biotopic presentations,
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Many fishes are far better off
in "reef" settings.
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FOWLR compatibility question?, 9/4/08
First off I have to say I
love your site and use it regularly to research new fish and also to gain new
information.
<Great>
I currently have a 46 gal tank with about 75 pounds
of live rock and also have about 50 pounds of live sand. As
of right now I
have one flame cardinal and a dwarf or falco hawk and I was thinking about
adding one or two more fish to my system in which I would like to get a
Valentini puffer and/or a Picasso trigger.
<The Picasso gets way to big for
this tank, the Toby may work, but I would be concerned with the Hawkfish, which
it may nip due to it's sedentary behavior.>
I have been looking for a hardy
fish that is also very active and entertaining to watch and happen to come
across these two at the my LFS and was wondering what your opinion would be on
these two fish?
Thanks Chris
<Definitely no on the trigger, and I would
probably skip the Toby as well. Perhaps on of the smaller wrasses or a pair of
good old clowns would work here. Lots of other choices available as well.>
<Chris>
FOWLR System Stocking – 08/29/08
Dear Crew,
<<Steve>>
I have a Sea Clear system II 125, already aged 3 yrs with a 1 mandarin, 1 yellow
tang, 1 blue tang, 7 chromis, 1 imperator angel, 1 Pseudochromis, 1 cleaner
shrimp, 1 clown, 1 coral beauty, 1 emerald crabs. All doing very well. Are these
guys compatible with a Naso tang and Heniochus acuminatus butterfly fish?
<<Compatible, yes…but “too much” for this already well stocked tank. Best to
pass on these additions and allow the fishes you have to continue to mature,
grow, and live with some room to do so, in my opinion>>
Thank you,
Steve
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
Over stocked marine tank.
Stocking Concessions-Considering the "End Game" 8/21/08
Hello all.
<Hey there! Scott F. in today!>
I have a 500ltr main tank with a 200ltr sump.
I moved from freshwater to marine about months ago and have built up a
nice stock of fish. But as the fish have started to grow I have found
that I am now over stocked and want to remove one or two fish to allow
me to buy a banner fish which I have taken a shine to.
<It happens all the time! I commend you on your awareness, and the
desire to rectify the situation!>
Stock - fish
6" Niger trigger
7" Regal tang - Kids are fond of this one
5" Yellow Tang
2 x 3" Clown fish
3 x 5" Convict Blennies
3 x 3" Green Chromis
4" Tasseled Filefish
3" Purple Dottyback
4" Red Hawkfish.
<Whew! That IS overstocked for a 500 liter aquarium...you will
definitely have to make some concessions here!>
Inverts
Various turbo snails
Large brittle star
Sand sifter
red and black urchin (name unknown)
Coral banded shrimp
2x scarlet cleaner shrimps
Various hermit crabs
other unidentified crabs (poss. Emerald but hard to find and not bought
intentionally)
Firstly am I over stocked ( I think I could be).
Secondly what recommendations would you make to get the stock ratio
right.
Many thanks in advance
Paul Brindle
<OK, Paul, let's think it through. It helps to consider the ultimate
potential adult size of the fish that we keep. Even in the confines of
an aquarium, these fishes will reach large sizes and suffer as a result.
The Trigger, in particular, needs huge amounts of physical space,
produces copious amounts of metabolic waste, and just gets plain old
mean as it grows. With a number of other larger fishes in the aquarium,
this is not a viable long-term choice for this system, IMO. Even though
the Regal is a gorgeous fish, and very commonly kept, I'm of the opinion
that they need HUGE systems to live in-like thousands of liters. They
are potentially very large fishes, and need large quarters to live happy
lives...they can live over 20 years in captivity! Consider finding a
much larger home for this fish in the near future. The Tassled Filefish
can get pretty large, and is a potentially voracious predator on your
smaller invertebrate life. The other fishes are good choices, but do
keep eye on the Convict Blennies! In the end, I think that you'll do
well with some of these trade offs-and more important, your fishes will
do well. Remember the "end game" when stocking an aquarium, and you'll
become very adept at making good stocking choices in the future! Good
luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Over stocking, SW FOWLR ...
double-posted? 8/22/08
Hello all.
<Paul>
I have a 500ltr main tank with a 200ltr sump.
<Good proportionality>
I moved from tropical to marine about 18 months ago and have built up a
nice stock of fish. But as the fish have started to grow I have found
that I am now over stocked and want to remove one or two fish to allow
me to buy a banner fish which I have taken a shine to.
<Mmm, okay... many Heniochus are social though>
Stock - fish
6" Niger trigger
7" Regal tang - Kids are fond of this one
5" Yellow Tang
2 x 3" Clown fish
3 x 5" convict blennies
3 x 3" green chromis
4" tasseled filefish
3" purple Dottyback
4" red Hawkfish.
Inverts
Various turbo snails
Large brittle star
Sand sifter
red and black urchin (name unknown)
Coral banded shrimp
2x scarlet cleaner shrimps
Various hermit crabs
other unidentified crabs (poss. emerald but hard to find and not bought
intentionally)
Firstly am I over stocked ( I think I could be).
<Mmm, you're "right about there"... with growth, yes>
Secondly what recommendations would you make to get the stock ratio
right.
<Mmm, either the Filefish (which will get too big) or the Odonus (which
may prove too aggressive soon)>
Many thanks in advance
Paul Brindle
<Welcome! Bob Fenner> |
Stkg. 75 gal., FIWLR 7/20/08
Hi all,
It's me again, sorry about all the stocking questions all the time, just don't
want to over crowd, and I still have fish I would love to have if I could. Right
now, I have a Pink Skunk Clown fish, a Six line Wrasse, a Flame Angel, 3 Green
Chromises, a Lawnmower Blenny, a Fire fish, a Chalk Bass, a Serpent Star, a
Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Feather Dusters, 2 Emerald Crabs, a Sally Light Foot,
and assorted Mushrooms all in a 75 gallon tank. I have a Remora Pro, and an
Emperor 400 that I only run with 2 generic cut to fit filter pads, and 80 lbs of
live rock. I do a 20% water change, replace the filters in the Emperor, and
clean the protein skimmer pre filter every Friday morning.
I wanted to know if you think this is maxed out. What I still really like for
fish are, another Pink Skunk Clown, a Fairy Wrasse, another star fish, and or
more Mushrooms. I would also like to take out the three Chromis and give them to
a friend. Do you think I can add any of these to my tank with/without taking out
the Green Chromises? And if so, which ones?
Also, how would suggest getting the Green Chromises out of the tank? Aside from
taking the whole take apart. And last, how often would you suggest giving the
whole protein skimmer a vinegar bath, to clean out the inside.
Thanks again,
Marc
P.S. Do you think feeding the fish a half of cube of frozen food once in the
morning and once at night is sufficient, or too much?
<I do not believe your aquarium is maxed out. A 75 gallon tank is large enough
for fish such as clowns, fire fish, etc. You may want to add a tang such as a
yellow or purple, maybe even a bristle mouth tang such as a Chevron or Kole for
algae control. I would also clean the protein skimmer as it becomes full with
waste. Hope this helps, IanB>
Stocking question, Marine 7/4/08
Hey Guys,
<Hello>
I really enjoy the site, lots of great info there!
<Thanks>
I have some questions about the stocking of my tank, and what you think of it so
far. I have a 30 Gallon saltwater system, with 35 pounds of live rock, a Prizm
Skimmer, (rated for 100 gal)
<Does not have a great reputation.>
two smallish powerheads for circulation. I have finished adding fish to it, I
added them over a period of a few months, one or two at a time. The order went
as such 1 Ocellaris Clown (Genghis), followed by two more a few weeks later
(Kublai and Attila) as I was told that adding just one more would lead to one of
them probably killing the other.
<Actually 2 will most likely pair up and kill the third as they mature.>
The cleanup crew came after that, over a period of a few weeks. The cleanup crew
comprises 2 scarlet hermits, five tiny blue legged hermits, five neisseira
<Nassarius?>
snails, and a Monaco shrimp (Paul). Finally I have added a scooter blenny and a
coral beauty angelfish.
<Both of these need larger tanks, the angel will outgrow this tank and the
scooter "blenny" (really a dragonet) will not be able to find sufficient food.>
I don't plan on adding any more. The fish are all eating well and swimming
around fairly energetically. The clowns have found a niche by the heater, and
the Angel sits behind one chunk of live rock most of the time, coming out and
swimming around every now and again.
They come out a lot more during the day. Am I overstocking this tank?
<Not really overstocked, but inappropriately stocked in my opinion.>
Every other site I have found states that a 30 gal tank should be sufficient and
my LFS said it should be fine, but I don't want the fish to be unhappy so want
to check as your site suggests a larger tank for what I have.
<I would agree with what you found on our site.>
I am also having a lot of algae problems... though I was told this is normal for
a new tank... I'm getting brown algae, lots of green hairy algae, and following
that a but of this nasty purple goopy stuff that bubbles a lot (I'm guessing
Cyanobacteria, so I try to clean it out when it happens).
<Its common for this to happen in new tanks, but you want to control it as best
as you can since it is quite difficult to remove once it has gotten a foothold.>
It usually comes back a few days after I've cleaned it off. I do a 3-5 gal water
change every couple weeks, and my water chemistry is as follows S.G 1.026, pH
8.3-8.4, Alkalinity is in the normal range, Temp 78-79 F, Nitrate almost 0,
Ammonia is less than .25, but above zero, though this is a few days after adding
the last fish so probably doing a little cycle of sorts.
<Watch this very closely, ammonia is very toxic even in small amounts, be
prepared for extra water changes.>
Should I expect the algae to go away soon, or should I try switching to RO/DI
water?
<I use RO/DI, removes some guesswork, but time will tell if you need it or not.>
(Currently use tap water but it apparently has no nitrate, phosphate etc when I
tested it).
<Good>
I also cut back on the amount I feed them, I feed them New Life Spectrum flakes
with garlic, some green Nori seaweed, and mysis shrimp (frozen) for some
variety.
<May want to feed every other day for a while to get the algae under control.>
I do hope to eventually add some soft corals too.
Does this tank have a chance of succeeding?
<You have some stocking issues, but the basic setup has a good chance of
success.>
I'd hate for anything to die or even suffer here. Thanks so much for your help.
I have looked over a LOT of your stocking suggestions etc, but nothing that
really addressed my specific situation.
Eric
<I would look for new homes for 1 of the clowns, the angel, and scooter blenny,
then find a couple of more appropriate fish.>
<Chris>
120g FOWLR Livestock Plan –
06/29/08
I'm finally getting there! Eric gave me some good tips on my livestock plan
so I have revised and am ready for a review before I start stocking.
<<Okey-Dokey Jean…Eric here again… let’s see what you have>>
I've attached the last email, so you can delete it but wanted you to be able to
see the backup info.
<<Thank you…is always helpful and requested>>
Quick summary: Current: 20 gal tank with 14# live rock and a DSB with plenum,
current occupants, 6 year old cinnamon clown (A. melanopus) and 6 month old
mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus),
<<And just to reiterate for other reader’s edification…this tank is too small
for both these fishes…combined OR on their own>>
4 red mushrooms (7 yr old), and green star polyps (3x3 size) with a half dozen
blue legged hermit crabs. Upgrading to: 120 gal 2x2x4 tank, running since 6-4-08
(just over 3 weeks - so very young yet).
<<Indeed>>
Euro-Reef 180 skimmer, Eheim 1262 return pump, Current Sundial T5HO 4x54 watts
(have them on only 5 hr a day at this time, since don't have anything in the
tank per se), 125# live rock, 1 inch sugar fine sand in display (inoculated with
1 cup from 20 gal tank) and 50 gal refugium with 6" deep sand bed (sugar fine)
also inoculated with another cup from 20 gal tank. Refugium lights on for 12 hrs
at night. 3 Maxi-Jet 1200 and 2 Koralia-4 circulating the tank. Added a good
number of copepods (from my LFS's tanks), 3 Astrea turban snails and 4 Nassarius
snails along with Chaetomorpha linum and some red macroalgae (looks like red
Gracilaria) on 6-22-08.
<<Mmm… Though many folks do this, I don’t recommend “combining” different
species of macroalgae in the refugium. These organisms “compete” for space just
like any other…releasing chemicals to inhibit the others growth or even kill it
outright. Such activity, aside from the obvious harm caused, engages
energies/processes better spent on the reasons you placed the macroalgae in the
refugium in the first place>>
Feeding the tank/copepods phytoplankton daily (1T/day).
<<Do be cautious/monitor closely…is easy to overdo>>
Since my rock was already cured and I used live sand with some from my old tank,
I'm not sure if I've "cycled" or not,
<<Observation/testing will reveal this…but no need to be in a rush. I think I
have already stated that the longer you let this tank run sans fishy livestock
the better it will be>>
so am hoping that with the addition of the snails, I may be cycling/cycled (can
I be cycled with my nitrate at zero?).
<<Um, yes…though this should be monitored with each addition>>
So my question is not only around my stocking but whether or not I should do
anything else before stocking?
<<While this tank continues to run, and in the absence of fishes and associated
foodstuffs added re…I would be adding some “protein” in the form of a pinch of
flake food or my favorite for this, a few shrimp pellets every couple days.
Doing so will help to grow and sustain those organisms that require such>>
I plan on quarantining for 3 weeks so if I get my first fish, it would be a
minimum of 3 weeks before it goes into the display (have a filter sponge in my
20gal that is seeded and ready). Testing (using Salifert tests) so far:
6/28/2008
Spg: 1.026
pH: 8.2
Temp: 81
NH4: <0.25
<<Should be ‘0’…this tank is NOT cycled>>
NO2: 0
NO3: went from 0 last week to 1 this week with the addition of the snails,
copepods and macroalgae
<<Not unusual…and the reason I say to test after each addition…as it seems you
are doing>>
P04: 0.5
<<Best to get this to 0.02 or below>>
dKH: 8.4
Alk: 2.98
Ca: 400
I started out using Mike Paletta's stocking suggestions and since reading Bob's
conscientious Marine Aquarist and his and Anthony's Reef Invertebrates. I went
through the CMA and read about all fish - wanting to keep the copepod
competition down so the mandarin gets most of the copepods; I eliminated the
Longnose Hawkfish and the Midas Blenny from my list. I wanted a Jawfish, but I
chose to keep the DSB in my refugium, so guess he is also off my list. Eric, you
asked me what I like so I went through the CMA and here are my picks...I'd love
your feedback as well as suggestions as far as the order of introduction (I know
it is usually the peaceful first, aggressive last).
<<Indeed…and I am happy to offer my opinions here (as usual [grin])>>
I tried to stick to easier fish and more peaceful, but I'm not sure how
"peaceful" these all are, which is why I'm coming to the experts.
1. Amphiprion melanopus (Cinnamon Clown) - from old tank, thinking last since
she is probably the most aggressive (she is used to having the world to
herself).
<<Hee-hee! This is an aggressive fish, regardless…and in more than three decades
of petfish keeping, is the only fish species I’ve been lucky enough to have draw
blood! (I used to keep Piranhas that were less scary to work around than a well
acclimated/established Cinnamon Clownfish can be!)>>
Will keep her in the 20 gal if you think she is a roadblock to these fish - I'm
looking for a more peaceful tank - and clowns are not peaceful from what I read.
<<Is a “Damsel” ya know…>>
2. Synchiropus splendidus (Mandarin) - (from old tank) also thinking of adding
last to allow my copepods to grow in the refugium since she is doing good in the
20 gal; which I know is too small but the rock is apparently keeping her fat and
happy along with the Cyclop-Eeze, Arctic Pods, and live brine shrimp I'm feeding
her (the clown's not complaining either).
<<I think the jury is still out on this fish…but time will tell>>
3. Zebrasoma xanthurus (Purple Tang) or Z. flavescens (Yellow Tang) – how many
months do you think the tangs need - since my rock doesn't have algae yet -
except for the rock that will come from the 20 gal?
<<Not to worry…the alga component can be easily supplemented (I like the ‘Sea
Veggies’ offerings from Two Little Fishies>>
I know I'll feed them other sources as well, but don't want to put them in a
premature tank either.
<<The longer the better… My tank ran fishless for seven months at startup…and
yes, it is difficult to wait/look at a fishless tank for so long>>
4. Acanthurus japonicus (White faced Tang) or A. pyroferus (Chocolate Tang) -
same as above - would plan on introducing both in the tank at the same time if I
can.
5. You had also recommended possible Ctenochaetus strigosus (Kole Tang), but
unsure if you meant choosing between the Acanthurus and Ctenochaetus or both.
<<I meant one or the other>>
Would 3 tangs be too much for a 120?
<<Mmm…this is starting to push the envelope I think…though the species you have
listed would be the best choices re, in my opinion. But still…better to stick to
two specimens>>
6. Centropyge loricula (Fame Angel) or C. bispinosus (Coral Angel) or C argi
(Cherub/Pygmy Angelfish) - also needs algae for grazing
<<And just one more reason to let the tank “mature” for some months>>
- they also will compete somewhat for the copepods?
<<Yes>>
Should this one go before/after the tangs?
<<Although not “passive” in nature, I would add this fish before any tangs>>
7. Pterapogon kauderni (Banggai Cardinalfish): would like a school (no more than
5) of them and think they would be introduced in the beginning, since they are
shy?
<<I have rarely seen this fish cohabitate as a “school” in captive systems…and
then not for long. Usually a dominant pair will form and badger the others to
the point of death from starvation/stress>>
Since I need to introduce them together, might be too much of a test for the new
tank although Bob says they need an established system as well.
<<Yes…and is best for “all”>>
I have lots of hiding places ready for them. You suggested the Pajama Cardinals
as more successful and may need to choose them instead as much as I love the
Banggai.
<<I very much suggest this, yes>>
8. Gramma loreto (Royal Gramma): I'm thinking he may be the first one to add?
<<No…of those listed thus far, I would add the Cardinals first…then the Gramma>>
9. Heniochus acuminatus (Long-fin Bannerfish): These looked like some really
cool schoolers as well (pg 235). Should be introduced all at once as well?
Number? Five?
<<Way too many for this tank (grows to nearly a foot in length in the wild). No
more than one if you wish to keep adding other fishes here>>
10. Johnrandallia nigrirostris (Barberfish) (p239): Another cool species that
could also be kept in a school?
<<Seemingly so, and a better choice than the Heniochus re relative size>>
Could I keep 2-3 schools (Bannerfish, Barberfish and Cardinals)?
<<Not in this volume… Perhaps a half-dozen Cardinals (Pajama, hopefully) and a
pair of the Barberfish. One must not forget the Tangs and other fishes you also
want to add. Else, you need to rethink what you wish to do with this
tank…perhaps a “species” tank with a “schooling” fish as the “primary”
inhabitants and the rest “built around” this choice>>
(I'm sure I can hear you groaning at this point!)
<<That obvious, eh [grin]>>
11. Forcipiger flavissimus (Yellow Long-nosed Butterflyfish) or F. longirostris
(Big Long-nosed Butterflyfish) (p241): Bob says that they are good "first
timer's Butterflyfishes, so added them to my list, but do they go with this
list?
<<Yes…but now you are getting to the point where you must start to decide
between one or the other based on space limitations. I’m sure this new 120g tank
seems huge as compared to the 20g…but it is not infinite in what it can
suitably/responsibly house>>
12. Cirrhilabrus punctatus (Finespotted Fairy Wrasse): They also may eat
copepods as a secondary source, but I see wrasses recommended often and these
are beautiful.
<<Yes…and jumpers too>>
13. Pholidichthys leucotaenia (Convict Blenny): (not a true blenny I guess). Can
keep
in a group or single?
<<Yes>>
Maybe another possibility for one of the first to be introduced?
<<Yes again…though maybe a more cryptic species than you will prefer>>
14. Gobiosoma oceanops or evelynae (Neon Goby): for their janitorial duties and
coolness.
15. Linckia or Fromia starfish? I like the orange Fromia star or the red reef
starfish and the orange Linckia.
<<Stick to the Fromia species…much more aquarium suitable than the Linckia
species>>
Not sure if I need one and if so, for the display and/or refugium? (don't want
carnivorous ones)
<<These are omnivorous creatures…and better in the display than the refugia>>
I'm thinking of not transferring my hermit crabs to my big tank - they ate all
my snails and my coral banded shrimp in my 20 gal.
<<Yes…very opportunistic>>
Any other detritus or sand shifting invertebrates that you would suggest?
<<A few more Nassarius snails and some Cerith snails…added to both the display
and the refugium>>
I am willing to switch any around - I'm not dedicated to any - so if I need to
skip the tangs to keep the schoolers, I'm willing...just have my heart set on
keeping the mandarin happy and providing a home for rest of the clown's life.
<<Understood… If you skip the Tang and Heniochus species, and probably
Forcipiger too, you could have a trio of Barberfish and a small school of
Cardinalfish (5) along with your other choices, and have a more successful yet
still very nice display I think>>
If she is the problem to having a peaceful tank, then I'll keep her in the 20
gal and build the 120 without her.
<<She may be fine in the 120…though she will likely be “the boss”>>
Also, don't want to overstock so am not saying I want all 15 choices if it
overloads the system.
<<Indeed it would…greatly so in my opinion>>
You've been with me through the design and I've learned so much!
<<Ah, very good…but more to go, yes? Do keep reading my friend>>
I sure don't want to make a mistake with the livestock.
<<Then please take your time and consider your options/choices carefully>>
I'm also willing to wait as long as it takes, so if you say add one or none now
and wait for 3 months, I'll do that too.
<<Hee-hee! I say wait three months (or longer!) before adding ANY!>>
It's a big investment and patience is the key to success.
<<Ah yes…an investment in money AND lives>>
Thanks Eric or Bob and all of you, you've been great!
<<We are all happy to share>>
This wouldn't be possible, at least successfully, without all of you.
<<And don’t forget your part…reading, researching…and caring. Is quite the
collective effort indeed. Cheers, Eric Russell>>
Re: 120g FOWLR Livestock Plan -
06/29/08
Thank you so much Eric for your advice!
<<Is my pleasure to share, Jean>>
My husband is worried for my sanity because he said there must be
something wrong when one can just sit and stare at rocks in a tank
watching for any type of growth.
<<Hee-hee! Not a fish nerd, eh?>>
Thinks I'm just seeing things since he doesn't get down on the floor
(like me) to see the copepods moving around in the refugium.
<<Indeed…and much more to come!>>
So I'll tell him that I'm not crazy and the tank will remain fishless
for the summer!
<<Excellent! It will truly gain form this>>
Couple of questions before I go though; the Salifert tests don't go to 0
for the ammonia tests; there is no color when I test, so < 0.25 is the
lowest the tests go.
<<Ah, okay…is probably fine then>>
What is your suggestion to remove the phosphate?
<<This should sort out on its own at this point, as the tank/rock/sand
bed continues to mature>>
Could it be the phytoplankton that is adding it?
<<This is a possibility, yes…and easy to test>>
I'm using CaribSea seawater at this point, so it can't be coming from
the water.
<<Mmm, have you tested for such? Also, I highly suggest you obtain a
quality mix (Tropic Marin or Seachem…or better yet, both and “blend”
together) and start making/storing your own saltwater for this much
larger tank. Do a keyword search on our sight re…and give me a shout if
you need to discuss further>>
When I add top off water I'm using R/O water that I tested and its zero
for phosphates.
<<Stop dosing the Phytoplankton and see what happens…though this
Phosphate reading could also be attributed to any “new” rock that’s been
added>>
Would you recommend that I add the extra snails and the Fromia now to
keep the sand clean? If not, when?
1. Fromia starfish
2. Nassarius snails
3. Cerith snails
<<Go ahead and add these now>>
Plan: Begin stocking around December - 6 months - just so I have this
straight - I continue to run this tank empty (per se) and just feed it
shrimp pellets (in display and/or refugium?) and some phytoplankton
(watching my ammonia and nitrite levels to ensure they stay zero) and
wait for about 6 months before stocking with fish?
<<You got it!>>
How often would I do water changes during this time?
<<There will be biological processes occurring/bio-minerals being
utilized, though at a much lower rate than will happen later once
stocking begins. You could possibly get by with “no” water changes
during this fallow period…but a 10% exchange each month can’t hurt>>
(I'm always amazed at how much I can read and still have so many
questions!)
<<As we all do…but don’t stop reading! [grin]>>
Finally, can you help me with the order of introduction then with the
revised list?
<<Sure>>
I have the following:
1. Sphaeramia nematoptera (pajama cardinal) x 5 (first?)
<<Yay!!! And, yes!>>
2. Gramma loreto (Royal Gramma) x 1
3. Gobiosoma oceanops (Neon Goby) x 1
4. Pholidichthys leucotaenia (Convict Blenny) x 1
<<These are very social fishes…do get at least two>>
(What did you mean by-may be more cryptic than I may prefer?)
<<They tend to stay within the rockwork much of the time/won’t show
themselves much but at feeding times…but still very neat fish>>
5. Johnrandallia nigrirostris (Barberfish) x 3
6. Cirrhilabrus punctatus (Finespotted Fairy Wrasse) x 1
7. Centropyge (one of the angels - most probably the Flame Angel)
8. Mandarin
9. Cinnamon Clown (last?)
<<This order of introduction should be fine>>
Again, thanks so much Eric for all your help!
<<Always welcome, Jean. Be chatting, Eric Russell>>
R2: 120g FOWLR Livestock Plan -
06/29/08
Eric, also wanted to add one more question to my last reply about
the 2 types of macroalgae in my refugium - remembered just after I send
the reply - sorry.
<<No worries my friend…ask away>>
Should I completely remove one or remove the red macroalgae and put it
in my display or put the red in my 20gal for now - the clown may munch
on it.
<<The Gracilaria seems to be more palatable to herbivorous fishes, I
would place this in the display>>
Seems the Chaetomorpha is more favored - so am assuming that would be
the best one to keep.
<<In the refugium, yes…in my opinion. It is quite “user friendly” for
this purpose>>
<<Regards, EricR>>
|
Aquarium Sizing & Such,
Marine Stocking 6/22/08
Hi, I have a kind of silly question to ask. First, I have 10+ years of
freshwater experience, 4 years of brackish and 1+ years of marine. So my
basement looks like a fish store, lol. Anyway I would like to set up a show
tank, preferably about 200 gallons. Currently I only have damsels and clowns in
FOWLR systems. I've learned not to trust coral. The fish I would love to have
would be
1 Dwarf Zebra Lionfish
1 Blue Dot Puffer
1 Powder Brown Tang
1 Metallic Foxface Rabbitfish
3 Banggai Cardinal Fish
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish
Now I have friends who keep fish too but not really of the kind I'm looking for.
One problem is some say yes and some say no. One problem would be that the Blue
Dot Puffer would nip at the Dwarf Lionfish, but one of my friends say that as
long as the puffer is fed, he won't be a problem.
<Not often related to feeding, more along the lines of general
aggression/territorial issues. Depends on the individual personalities of the
fish.>
Is that correct, or do I owe my friend a smack?
<Smack them anyways.>
Another would be that the Lionfish would eat the Banggai Cardinals, but again,
I've heard if there is enough rockwork that they are fast enough to not become
meals, and if the lionfish is fed right, there won't be a problem with him
anyway.
<If they can fit in his mouth the lion will most likely try to eat it, and it
only has to get it right once.>
Is that all correct? I've also looked up how big an aquarium should be, but it
only comes up per fish. If it's all added up, it should be a 350 gallons. That
just seems like it would be too much open space to not enough fish.
<Not really possible in my opinion but I know what you mean.>
So would it be ok to place them in a 200 or 250 gal?
<This would probably work, the tang needs the most room here, at least six feet
of straight line swimming room.>
Is 350 the minimum? I want to move my hobby upstairs, that is why I want a show
tank. I'm just afraid a 350 gal (even a 250) might be too heavy
and bust through the floor.
<Definitely a concern.>
I live in a house built in 1950. How do I test my floors without taking the risk
of just filling up a 350?
<I would call a professional and have them take a look.>
Sorry if this is just a "duh!" question. Thank you for your time.
<Welcome>
<Chris>
Question regarding stocking - Sorry,
this is a long one, FOWLR - 6/20/08
Hello Guys/Gals of "the crew" of my favorite website.
<I'm flattered! Benjamin here today.>
I've been reading up on specific fish for the past 2 weeks straight now,
at least an hour or two a day from your website and I'm still probably
only about halfway through the information that relates to what I'm
proposing to do, simply amazing how much information is compiled here, I
really appreciate the time you guys put into this.
<Thank you. This is a tremendous resource...I am amazed by the
information stored here by my predecessors; continually learning from my
counterparts>
Instead of asking questions every day when I had a new one, I've been
slowly compiling this email and adding or removing questions as I read
through WWM, consequently it has gotten long but I think it's shorter
overall than if I had asked a question every day or two as they popped
up :) And with this method I've been able to take quite a few questions
off the list as I figure out the answer on my own.
<Thanks for your conscientious effort!>
Up until now, I've always kept a reef tank. While it is beautiful, I
find it kind of boring in that nothing really moves around much. I was
fascinated at first and I still am from time to time, but it's time for
me to move on I think. The corals wave in the "breeze" and I have a
couple smaller fish that move around, but nothing big that catches the
eye and moves all around the tank, I want an active tank now.
<Hmm....large reefs can have large, beautiful fish as well...all a
question of space and careful stocking>
A lot of the corals I have are some of the more needy species, I spot
feed them every other day and have to keep my water quality pristine, it
isn't really "work" as I enjoy it, but it does consume quite a bit of my
time, I'd like to cut back. They are only in a 75g tank but I have about
150g total water volume, my sump is actually 2x bigger than my display
tank but only about half full since that's the nature of a sump. Kind of
a shame to waste all that room, but at the same time my corals really
appreciate the stability and the cleanliness that the extra water seems
to provide.
<Indeed...a good situation for all.>
Anyway, I'm just clarifying that I have been keeping high water quality
saltwater tanks going for a couple years now without much incident. I'm
interested now in trying to keep angelfish, singular and maybe plural
depending on what the reply back is.
I recently came into a 180g aquarium, my local pet store was having a
huge sale and it was too good for me to pass up.
<I would love to "come into" a large system...but would need to mortgage
my family to do so!>
I've been wanting to get out of the coral reef setup and into a FOWLR,
this seems to be the perfect opportunity for me. My stocking plans are
this... I'd like to have 3 or 4 Yellow tangs (my wife's favorite fish
bar none),
<I wouldn't go with that many...pushing it. One or two will ultimately
be more enjoyable.>
a Purple tang, and a angelfish, perhaps two. I've seen incredible
aquariums with 10-20 angelfish crammed into them and would love to be
able to do that, but I understand that is like putting 20 murderers into
the same prison cell. Sure, they will survive for a while, but will they
be happy and not fight? Highly unlikely, and you cant turn around
without stepping on someone's toes.
<Bingo...not good long term.>
I'd also like to get two blue throat triggers, male/female pair, I
really like the way triggerfish move and from the research I've done,
the blue throats seem to be pretty mild as far as triggerfish go, not to
mention I really think they are gorgeous fish.
Not really flashy like some species, but they just are a pretty fish,
kind of like how some women look better without makeup. And if I didn't
end up going with the blue throats, I'd probably go with a harlequin
tusk.
<This is possible, but I wouldn't recommend angels AND triggers. I think
you could have a really splendid aquarium with a pair of triggers, some
good aquascaping, and a few medium-small companions>
I'd love a Regal angel instead of the Emperor or Queen but I've
just read too much negative press about them and how they eventually end
up dying even if eating like pigs, I don't want to get attached to a
fish and know it will die within a year or two, so I've decided against
Regals although I sure would like one :)
So that is 8 or 9 fish total in a 180g (220g total water volume) and
probably one or two more sand sifting goby types. I'll have plenty of
live rock (I plan on trying to make my own for the main tank so I can
have it exactly the contours and shapes I want, then I'll put "real"
live rock into the 75g sump, and maybe a piece or two of the real stuff
into the display tank) and good filtration, both biological and
mechanical. I'm planning on ordering a EV-240 with the Mag 12 pump that
will go into the sump and I'll have some Caulerpa and perhaps some other
macro algae type in there as well. I'll probably use two Eheim 1262
pumps to return to the main tank and then I've got 4 of the Koralia size
4 power heads which claim to be around 900 gph but in my thinking aren't
nearly that much.
<You might be surprised...these are good powerheads>
However, I should have a good amount of current and turbulent water.
I have multiple questions... 1) I'd really like an Imperator angelfish.
I also like the Queen angelfish. I realize both of these can reach
12-18" with good water quality/food/time. I fully expect to upgrade to a
300g in the future, but after looking around on the web and seeing what
a LFS has to offer, I would probably be getting either of the fish at
only about 3-4 inches, so I'd assume I could house them in a 180g for a
couple years before needing to move to a bigger tank? Is that correct?
<My advice is never to use a 100 watt fuse in a 150 watt socket, if you
get my drift. Waiting until you have a properly sized system will be
better for both you and the fish.>
And what are my chances of being successful with two of the larger
marine angel species in the same tank?
<In a truly huge tank, maybe. In a 300 or smaller, don't count on it.>
I realize it isn't recommended but if possible I'd like to try it, and
like I say I'm 100% planning on upgrading my tank to around 300g within
2 years or so. And also, any problems with aggression between a
Imperator and/or Queen angel and Yellow/Purple tangs? I realize there
might be some small nipping and snapping to establish dominance between
the tangs and angels, but I assume after everyone settles in there
should be relatively little bickering as the tangs are different in both
body shape and color when compared to the angels?
<If you keep the stocking light, aggression should be limited.>
2) I cant really decide what to do for substrate. I've always had 6" or
more deep sand beds in my reef tanks and sumps, but I don't know what I
want to do with this 180g. That's a lot of bottom space to cover, 24" by
72" at 6" deep would be a LOT of sand and I'm not sure its necessary in
a FOWLR? I'd really rather keep it down to an inch or so, easier to
clean if needed and it isn't displacing so much water.
<Bare bottom would also be a good option, especially in a tank like
this. Of course, if you intend to have sand-sifting gobies I would stick
with 1" of sand tops.>
I figure a 6" deep sand bed in a 180g tank is taking about 30-40 gallons
of water out of my total water volume... I'm having a hard time
stomaching that. I would do a good DSB in my sump regardless of what I
put in my display tank, so I'd have the denitrifying characteristics of
a DSB still in effect.
<Yes, the sump DSB would be effective.>
Would only an inch or so of aragonite sand be OK as a substrate in a
FOWLR of this nature?
<Yes>
I read around on WWM and I didn't really see anything that covered the
substrates angelfish prefer, if any, and also I was curious if you
guys/gals had any experience with Southdown play sand?
<Not a good idea. Play sand is most likely a silica sand- not suitable
for marine use>
Seems like a good product for making a cheap sand bed I can later
"activate" with a much smaller amount of live sand.
<If you're referring to the stuff sold in bags of water, save your
money. Not much more 'live' than the dry stuff- and dry will quickly
become live with live rock, old substrate, etc.>
3) How long does Selcon stay good if refrigerated?
<Most vitamin supplements like this have an effective life of about 6
months *from bottling*>
I'm up in Alaska and shipping is usually more expensive than the product
itself, so I'd like to order a big thing of Selcon if it lasts for a
long time, rather than order small ones once a month.
4) Do I need "good" lighting for a FOWLR with angels? I'd like to stick
to something around 150-200 watts, just typical florescent bulbs, maybe
one actinic blue and one daylight 10k?
<I'd go with more. Your fish don't photosynthesize, but they DO have
circadian rhythms dictated by diurnal/nocturnal cycles. I would go with
maybe double that watts in PC fluorescent>
I don't really want a lot of lighting so that I don't have as much
worries about algae, but if the fish are like people and need lighting
to process vitamin D and what not, I'll go ahead and provide more
significant lighting. I'll probably have about 100 watts for my sump,
but that will mainly be over the refugium area of it so the macro algae
hopefully grows fast.
5) Cleanup crew in an angel tank? What does this consist of? If I don't
go with the Harlequin tusk, I think I'll be able to get away with some
hermit crabs and a lot of snails? My question though is that when I see
beautiful pictures of people's FOWLR tanks, I almost never see any with
snails on the glass. How do they keep the algae down? Or is it just
because they are a FOWLR with minimum lighting that they just don't have
algae problems?
<Snails, or copious glass scraping.>
Ideally, I would like to have some snails and crabs just because they
are "cool" to watch, but I'm just wondering why I never see pictures of
them in most FOWLR tanks? Or is that because the medication people use
in their FOWLR's would most likely kill inverts?
<Medication would also kill the LR and some of the FO in that setup-
medication should always be performed under close supervision in a
quarantine tank.>
6) I've heard that Caulerpa is slightly noxious
<More than slightly>
and not really a good tang/angel food? I just know how easy a time I
have growing Caulerpa since I've always done that in my sumps, I'd
really like to be able to use this macro algae since I'm familiar with
it, but is there better fast growing macro algae that I should be using?
I've been reading about Gracilaria, sounds pretty good but maybe slower
growing than Caulerpa?
If you consider that better than Caulerpa, I'll probably make an order
from IPSF a couple months before I get my first fish and get the stuff
growing and settled in. I'll probably have some damsels in the tank once
the ammonia and nitrates die down, just to have something in there to
feed and keep the biological processes going like I want, so the algae
should have plenty of nutrition to feed off before I get my main fish.
<Consider Chaetomorpha for your sump, and Gracilaria- the trouble with
this is it does grow slowly, and your tang will eat it like crazy>
7) How do people get away with placing multiple yellow tangs in the same
tank? Almost every large tank (150g or more) I see with a yellow tang
doesn't have just one, they have 3 or more but I see recommended on WWM
to only place one per tank. Personally I'd much rather go with a school
of yellows than with just one but everything I read says only place one
in a tank however I'm hoping there is some magic number like 3 or 4 that
I could put in there.
<Not all fish are schoolers. You will note that the tanks with a large
number of fish don't have exploratory, happy fish- they have what looks
like a choreographed traffic problem. Milling all over, never stopping,
never actually going anywhere.>
If not, is there a different type of fish you would recommend that is
both bright and active, but handles a couple of the same species in the
same tank? And hopefully wont fight with a Imperator or Queen angel? Or
I was also thinking, would I be better off keeping maybe 3-4 purple
tangs and no yellows? Would they accept a "schooling" type situation
better than a yellow?
<No>
8) Neon gobies with this stocking plan?
<May wind up as food for a larger species...as is often the case with
cleaner species>
I was hoping to have one or two for their parasite picking abilities
<Limited in aquaria>
and the fact that they are just a funny little fish but I haven't been
able to find anything referring to how yellow/purple tangs and the
angelfish would treat them?
<My recommendation is to look a little more and do some hard decision
making. Ultimately I believe you will be happier with less fish in more
space- resulting in more natural behavior and interesting activity, not
just milling- and your fish certainly will be healthier.>
Thanks ahead of time for the effort that goes into answering this long
email.
<No problem, it's a pleasure!>
It took me almost a week to create it and I'm not in any rush for a
reply back :)
<Good luck with your continued research, project. Feel free to ask
anything you can't find indexed, and check out our forum at
bb.wetwebmedia.com where there are some very helpful folk ready to chat
about aquariums! Benjamin>
Re: Question regarding stocking -
Sorry, this is a long one - 6/20/08
Thanks for the helpful answers.
<No problem!>
Well I knew the answer would be no on the school of yellow tangs but
hey, I had to ask. Also, what is your reasoning behind not mixing
tangs/triggers?
<I think the tangs and the triggers would be fine, I just wouldn't mix
the triggers and the angelfishes>
The triggers I'm hoping to have are pretty peaceful as far as triggers
go, do you think they will just be bullied by the tang?
I was assuming with 180g of space and lots of crevices and caves, they
would be able to co-exist happily.
<I would think so too>
I think I might go with a Red Sea Raccoon butterfly as my yellow fish (I
think my wife will be fine as long as there is a couple yellow
somethings in there) I might even do two or three although I cant really
find anything about them being a schooling type butterfly? Will they be
better off just one to a tank?
<I'll admit right now that butterflies are not my specialty, but I do
believe they would do best one or two to a tank, if you found a pair.>
Then hopefully two blue throat triggers.
Then a Purple tang and either a Emperor angel or a Queen angel. A sand
sifting goby of some sort and then the usual assortment of cleaner
snails and hermits. That will only end up being 6 or so of the larger
fish and one sand sifter, in about 215g total water volume with a sump
and lots of circulation plus plenty of live rock which I'm making myself
so it will have lots of hidey holes and plenty of stuff to explore. I
think in a 180g that will look quite nice and be around 30g of water per
fish. If you don't recommend mixing 2-3 Raccoon butterflies in the same
tank, is there a butterfly that is a nice bright yellow which you do
recommend as more of a schooling type?
With this stocking plan, I would assume I could introduce the Heniochus
first along with the sand sifter, then the triggers, then the Purple
tang (hopefully around 3 inches) and then whatever Pomacanthus I decide
on, either Emperor or Queen? Or should I do the Purple tang last and the
angelfish second to last? I'm hoping both the angel and tang will be
only around 3-4 inches, nothing too big or small.
<I would introduce the angel or triggers (whichever you decided on)
last.
So really, you guys recommend 400 watts of lighting on a 180g tank
that's just a FOWLR?
<Well, lighting is pretty subjective. I recommend that for you because
it really isn't that much light spread out across such a large tank. You
could probably do well though with a lot less watts of T5 light- but
whatever you do, the fish will look better under good light.>
Most of the really alive "LR" part of my tank will be in the sump with
high lighting. I'll just have rockwork in the main tank and it will
slowly become live over time but I don't need anything too amazing, as
you can probably tell I'm trying to avoid algae problems. I'm really
wanting to cut back my lighting if possible from what I have to use now
on my reef tank, 400 watts makes some decent heat and also drives the
electrical bill up when compared to say 4 lights at 54w each which is
what I had planned. If you think the fish will derive a lot of benefit
from it though, then so be it, but if they could get by happily on 200w
I'd much prefer that.
<Well, they don't need to have a tanning bed. Maybe take a look at
lower-watt T5 units?>
Also, what temperature of lights do you think would make this
combination of fish look the best and thrive? I'm not really well versed
as far as lighting goes despite my experience with reef tanks, I've
basically always just used half 10k T-5 VHOs and half actinic blue 460s.
I'm assuming the actinic blue will help the fish look good, but a yellow
fish like the Heniochus might be brighter in appearance if I get some
lights more in the 6-7k range?
<I think a 50/5o mix should be pretty good for a fish only tank>
I just don't like the looks of bare bottom tanks... Maybe I'll just
stick 1/2 an inch or so of sand around the bottom and have a DSB in the
sump only. OR, what do you think about maybe doing some of the crushed
coral substrate, the stuff that is around 1/8th of an inch in size? And
just skip the sand sifter goby?
<If you kept it shallow and vacuum it, that would work.>
I'm just having a hard time coming across aragonite sand up here in
Alaska, the only live sand I can get is
$10 a lb at the LFS I trust and to put even a 1 inch layer across the
bottom would cost me $400, kind of ridiculous.
<Wow! No kidding!>
But the bags of crushed coral (not wet, the dry stuff) are about $30 for
a 30 lb bag, I could
buy $100 of that stuff and it would be enough I think. I'm not CHEAP,
but I hate spending $400 on substrate that the fish don't even care
about.
<Understood!>
Crushed coral would also give me some good buffering ability.
<Actually not as good as the aragonite sand, but a lot better than
play/silica sand.>
I'll definitely get some Chaetomorpha and Gracilaria for the sump and
hopefully be able to feed my Purple tang a lump of fresh algae once a
week or so rather than always eating frozen mixtures and Nori clips.
<I'm sure the fish will appreciate the nice snack!>
Thanks again for all the help.
<No problem! Glad to be of service.>
Grant Gray
<Benjamin>
|
Compatibility and Design Questions Yet
Again…a Lionfish Dominated FOWLR Tank – 06/16/08
Thank you very much for devoting your time, and for so long a time, to
helping out the hobby by providing this service. It's truly inspirational and
greatly appreciated.
<<Thank you…we are very glad to be here/to be of service, Jeff. And you have my
apologies for the tardiness of this reply>>
My questions regard fishes that I don't have for a tank that I haven't yet
purchased.
<<Ah! The dreaming/planning stages are so fun, yes?>>
Every time I think that I've got a tank design settled, I read something on your
site that highlights a misconception or an oversight on my part.
<<But kudos to you for researching beforehand. And do let me suggest you broaden
your searching by looking to other sources along with your research on WWM. As
much as we like what we say here at WWM [grin], it’s best to not limit yourself
to any “one” resource>>
And thank you very much for that.
<<We’re happy to share>>
I'd rather sacrifice time in the research phase than do it in real time with
actual animals.
<<All is precious (even our/your time)…but proper research is a “necessary”
function…and can even be quite enjoyable>>
What I've done is to decide on the fish I want to keep, then work "backwards" to
figure out the system necessary to properly house them.
<<Very good…and maybe this is obvious, but… do also look closely at your fish
selection for compatibility/suitability. I won’t be of much use to design the
system around the fish if they can’t cohabitate>>
A Volitans Lionfish is top of the list.
<<My favorite among the Lionfishes>>
I still vividly remember walking into that fish store as a youngster and
immediately standing in front of a large hex tank with a lion looking directly
at me, fins splayed and being told that it was venomous. Spectacular.
<<Agreed, and if I may share… My enthrallment with the saltwater side of the
hobby began with the site of a tank chock-full of 1” Blue Damsels against a
background of white gravel and bleached-white coral (yes, I hail from the days
of undergravel-filters in saltwater tanks), though I long since learned this is
hardly a feasible (or responsible) display>>
Similarly, I remember seeing pictures in a book in dad's library showing a moray
eel, mouth agape and full of needle-like teeth.
<<Mmm, yes…and I remember many an enjoyable evening watching ‘The Undersea World
of Jacques Cousteau’>>
It sent a shiver down my back. So, I would like one of those too. Since then, I
have learned about and am also drawn to Tuskfish and triggers.
<<Hmm, I hope this is just a list of “favorites”…and not what you plan to keep
“together”>>
Then I read that apparently, the only way to responsibly own a trigger of any
sort, is in a specimen tank.
<<Ah, well…not exactly…in my opinion. There are several species that can often
be kept with other fishes (e.g. – Xanthichthys, Rhinecanthus), but I don’t
generally suggest Triggerfishes with Lionfishes>>
Nuts! Perhaps that will be my (possible) second tank.
<<There ya go>>
Then I read that a moray and a Volitans are not a good match.
<<Depends much on the species of eel I think…but this seems to be the popular
school of thought>>
There goes the moray. Nuts again!
<<Another tank? [grin]>>
Am I okay with the Volitans and the Tuskfish?
<<Should be fine…in a big enough tank>>
I'm now considering a Miniatus Grouper.
<<Mmm…>>
Will that go well with the other two?
<<As long as it isn’t big enough to eat them…can reach about 20” in the wild>>
Finally, I would love to have a Queen Angel, however I'm not going to be able to
turn my living room into an aquarium, and they sound too aggressive for the
other fish on the list anyway. Would a French or Blueface Angel work with this
group?
<<The Blueface can be “touchy” or hard to keep, but given plenty of space, the
French Angel would make a spectacular addition…in my opinion>>
Given this group of four (Volitans, Tuskfish, Miniatus, Angel), will a 240g (72
x 30 x 25) suffice?
<<Yes…though probably “just.” And it will certainly need some good ancillary
filtration>>
I am planning on about 200# of LR,
<<Be careful not to overdue this… While you will certainly need to provide some
caves/dark places for the Lionfish and Grouper…it is important to maintain lots
of “swimming room” as well>>
a 65g sump, ATB medium cone skimmer,
<<An interesting design…I would be very interested in your appraisal of this
skimmer>>
and a large RDSB. Am I even in the ballpark?
<<I think you are, yes…but do also consider a canister filter for chemical
filtration (carbon or Poly-Filter), as well as a fluidized-bed filter to assist
with biological filtration>>
One fear I'm having is that this is getting out of control.
<<Is easy to do>>
Maybe this all boils down to: should a Volitans be in a specimen tank?
<<Not necessarily…as long as you make your choices (livestock and setup) with
this animal’s needs/well-being in mind>>
Thanks much,
Jeff
<<Quite welcome…let me know how things progress. Regards, Eric Russell>>
Re: Compatibility and Design
Questions Yet Again…a Lionfish Dominated FOWLR Tank – 06/18/08
Thank you Eric for the reply.
<<Quite welcome, Jeff>>
It helps greatly with forming a game-plan.
<<Ah…am happy to know>>
And, yes, the planning stage is great fun, and it's free.
<<Hee-hee! Indeed>>
Based upon the assumption that I'll be housing a Volitans, Tuskfish,
French Angel, and a Miniatus (Are you sure about the 20" max length? My
reference (Scott Michael) lists 16.1". That's a huge difference.),
<<As sure as I can be using fishbase.org as a reference, yes>>
I would like to get your opinion on a few further details of the design.
<<Okey-dokey>>
I agree about the possibility of having so much LR as to limit swimming
room for this group of fish, esp. the Volitans and Angel. However, since
LR will be the primary biological filtration for these waste machines as
fish, it also seems imperative that I push it as far as I can go and
still leave adequate maneuvering room.
<<Is one approach…but a better method (in my opinion) is to either use a
remote vessel to hold live rock if possible…or boost biological
filtration with ancillary installation of a wet/dry or fluidized-bed
filter (my preference being the latter)>>
Since I'll be starting with juveniles, maybe a option is to start with
the LR on the low side and add more only as necessary in order to keep
the open volume maximized.
<<Is up to you…but for this type system I think a fluidized-bed filter
(even two or more plumbed in series if necessary!) is the way to go.
This frees up room in the tank, and these filters are able to “ramp-up”
very quickly to adapt to fluctuating bio-loads>>
The obvious difficulty is that the need for the LR is directly
proportional the size of the fish,
<<This is “part” of the equation, yes…along with overall numbers,
feeding habits, your husbandry skills/maintenance habits, etc.. Rarely
in my experience is anything we do relating to this hobby based on a
“single” factor>>
yet inversely proportional to the free-volume for swimming.
<<Agreed here…and so overlooked…especially with “reef” systems>>
In addition, this strategy requires water quality to deteriorate before
addressing it with increased LR.
<<Not with “my” solution [grin]…that FB filter will sit there and idle,
but will also be up and “working” before you even know it is needed>>
I'm inclined to go at start-up with the amount of LR that should
approximate the ultimate amount needed.
<<Ahh, but then you lose the benefits of adding “fresh” rock at a later
date>>
Thoughts?
<<You have them>>
A fluidized-bed filter?
<<Yep>>
I will not debate that such a properly functioning filter can be the
acme of efficiency, I'm sure that it is.
However, they strike me as too delicately balanced for comfort.
<<How so? The design is quite simple and elegant in its function…and any
“balancing” is done automatically, based on the nutrient load of the
system>>
If flow is diminished or interrupted and the bed collapses and goes
anaerobic, then you can quickly have big trouble.
<<Is a small concern (if at all)…and certainly less so than a canister
filter utilized for carbon filtration as the sand in the FB filter does
not trap/store up organic matter. And like that canister filter full of
carbon…the benefits far outweigh such an unlikely event. And to be fair,
good husbandry would mandate cleaning/flushing such filters (canister or
otherwise) after an extended loss of flow before putting them back “on
line”>>
The need for additional nitrate removal is what led me to choose the ATB
skimmer.
<<I’m a huge fan of Euro-Reef…but this design intrigues me>>
It's a princely sum for some bent plastic and an electric motor, but its
reputed efficiency at removing pre-nitrate organics
<<This is what all skimmers do (to differing degrees of efficiency)…this
is a fancy way of saying the skimmer generates a “bunch” of skimmate
[grin]>>
causes me to believe that its money well spent. Okay, I'll admit it; I
really like the design and quality too.
<<Ah-ha!>>
You mention a canister filter for chemical filtration.
<<Yes>>
I'm planning on building a manifold in the return line, powered by
something like a Dart or Barracuda, and separately diverting water
through sub-systems before dumping back into the return portion of the
sump.
<<Ah! Perhaps some simple media reactors then>>
These sub-systems will be the remote deep sand bed, a chamber for
carbon, and another chamber for a phosphate filter.
<<Very good…and to reiterate…more “deadly” re an anoxic situation than a
fluidized-bed filter…but oh so beneficial/worth the “risk”>>
I'm considering a refugium for tumbling Chaetomorpha.
<<Another worthwhile effort. And by the way…the Chaetomorpha does not
have to “tumble” (it’s not likely you would get it to do so anyway).
Simply flowing 3-5 times the vessels volume per hour (can be more “if”
you wish) is quite adequate in my experience with this macro-algae>>
An algae scrubber makes a lot of sense to me, but the additional
maintenance issues make me hesitate.
<<Best to stick with what you can/will keep up with>>
Are the other components of my system adequate for the task, or is the
refugium worth the trouble?
<<It may not be so much a matter of “need,” but a refugium is certainly
of “benefit.” The Chaetomorpha will help you with Nitrate and Phosphate
export and is very easily “pruned,” not being a single-cell organism
like Caulerpa. Chaetomorpha also provides a wonderful matrix for the
hosting/fostering of micro- and macro-organisms that, while they may not
provide “food” directly to your FOWLR livestock as they do in a reef
system, they certainly provide and replenish the “bio-diversity” which
helps to stabilize the system>>
Appreciatively,
Jeff
<<Is a pleasure to share. Eric Russell>>
|
Compatibility -FOWLR stocking, triggers,
puffers 05/30/2008
Hi Guys,
<<And ladies I hope....Andrew with you this evening>>
I just have a quick query; your website has been really useful but I just want
to ask something specific. I'm considering a marine FOWLR setup. I have fallen
in love with three fish, and I just wanted to know 1. would they get along and
2. what sort of a tank size would best fit these guys (I'm guessing pretty big,
but would like to see if it is within price and room!)
The fish are a Pinktail trigger, a narrow-lined puffer (Arothron manilensis) OR
dogface; both are cute, and the last is the fuzzy dwarf lionfish that's just
too... fuzzy to resist. Could these three ever get along and in what size of
tank?
<<Three very nice fish indeed. I don't see any problems with the puffer and the
trigger in a tank of about 200 gal plus ( they both can get pretty large,
especially the trigger, which can reach about a foot, sometimes a little more,
and about 3/4 of a foot for the puffer, in captivity)...I would not add a lion
in with these due the to the aggressive nature of them, and I feel the Lion
would ultimately meet its demise through harassment>>
Thanks a lot in advance, your website has been such a great resource
Jo
<<Thanks for the questions, please do read more on these species here, including
linked articles and FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/triggers/melichthys/index.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tetraodontpuffers.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrochirus.htm
Hope this helps. A Nixon>>
90 gallon fowler, stkg. 5/17/08
Dear wet web media crew, I have a 90 gallon fowler tank with two false Percula
clowns, one falcula butterfly, a valentini puffer, a hippo tang, a
coral beauty, a six lined wrasse, and two fire fish. I was just wondering how
many more fish I can add. It has a 20 gallon sump and a huge skimmer. It
has an overflow and170 pounds of live rock. thanks.
<Depends on the species... some smaller ones might be able to be fitted here...
perhaps some Apogonids, Anthiines... Bob Fenner>
FOWLR stocking order- Stocking Compromises 5/7/08
Thank you in advance for your help.
<We're happy to be of service. Scott F. in tonight!>
Your site has been invaluable for me in setting up my tank. I have just set up a
180 gal FOWLR tank with 200lbs LR, Euro Reef RS180 skimmer, 2 X Tuneze 6060
Stream pumps. I would appreciate your opinion about selection and stocking order
of the following: Flame Hawkfish, Yellow Tang, Auriga BF, Longnose BF, Hippo
Tang and Passer Angel.
<Well, first of all, although you have chosen an interesting array of fish, I'd
be hesitant to stock your aquarium with all of them. I'd make some compromises
here. In particular, I would only go with one of the Tangs, and one of the
Butterflies. I'd recommend the Yellow Tang and the Longnose Butterfly. The Hippo
simply gets huge, and really requires an even larger aquarium than the one you
have to live a long and healthy life. I'd also pass on he full size Passer
Angelfish. It's another fish that gets very large and requires an equally large
aquarium. Really, to accommodate the entire collection that you contemplate, it
will require an aquarium of hundreds of gallons, and at least 8 feet in length.
If you really want to have an Angelfish, I'd definitely select a Centropyge
(dwarf) Angelfish, which will have a smaller need for physical space than the
Passer. In stocking, it's all about compromises, so please keep this in mind and
you'll be successful with your aquarium! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Compatible fish? FOWLR 05/02/2008
Hi WWM crew
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
I'm going to setup a 50 gallon saltwater FOWLR tank with separate trickle filter
sump, protein skimmer and T5 lighting. The fish I want to keep in it are:
1.Coral Beauty
2.Long Nosed Butterfly fish
3. Royal Gramma
Would these fish all be able to live happily in the tank?
Would any other fish be able to live in it as well
<<All the above fish would be fine in that aquarium. Any further purchases
should be peaceful inhabitants like Goby, clown or blenny>>
Thanks a lot, Dean
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>
Re: I Need A Quiet External Pump For
My New 120g FOWLR System (Livestock Plan) – 04/29/08
Thank you so much Eric for all your help.
<<Is my pleasure>>
I feel so much better about my pump concerns and plan to go with the Eheim.
<<An excellent choice>>
I also feel better about my LFS because of your comments.
<<Ah, good>>
I understand what pressures they're dealing with to keep alive,
<<Indeed…>>
but I don't want to be stuck with buying inferior equipment either,
<< Sadly, cheap and inferior seems easier (too easy?) to sell. I know it’s
easy for me to say, but…even though more expensive, beginning hobbyists
might be more successful; and save a little money in the long run due to
replacement, if offered and urged to by quality functioning gear from the
start. One should at least have options/choices available if they’ve done
their homework and wish to be more discerning in their selections>>
so I'll continue to support them as much as I can because I don't want to
buy my livestock via mail order.
<<The dollar savings from buying off the NET are very small usually, once
you factor in shipping (less than $10 difference in my dealings and with
“my” LFS), while the advantages of buying your livestock through an LFS you
trust can be many>>
So I'll do my best to keep them in business!
<<Very good>>
Speaking of livestock, you helped me solve my equipment problem, but what I
thought was a good livestock plan sounds not so great by your comments.
<<Yes…in fact I “strongly disagree” with some aspects your plan as
originally presented>>
I seriously was taking the list from Michael Paletta's book, "The New Marine
Aquarium".
<<And much fine information to be found there…but we have a difference of
opinions re stocking selection/densities>>
It was the list for the 75 gal tank (I believe),
<<Making it even more disagreeable to me>>
so thought if that was good, then a 120 should be "under stocked".
<<Not with a “pair” of Paracanthurus hepatus>>
My two fish that I currently have in my 20 gal is the Tomato clown and the
Green Mandarin (which I'm keeping fat and happy with frozen Cyclops, live
and frozen brine shrimp and now I'm culturing copepods until my new refugium
is up and running) - sorry - she was an impulse buy - my fault for not
researching
<<Yes…[grin]>>
and another LFS which I no longer frequent said was easy to care for and
fine for a 20gal
<<An all too common tale>>
- but I take personal responsibility and am working hard to keep her happy.
<<Very well>>
So I do need to build my list around them, and knowing that the Tomato's
reputation is that they don't always play nice in the sandbox,
<<Pretty much true for all the Clownfishes. And ironically… In more than
three decades in the hobby (and including a brief stint working the retail
side), clownfish species are the only fish to have ever “drawn blood” from
me while working in the tank>>
I'm hoping to come up with a good livestock list to go with him. I would
like to keep the list as reef safe as possible in case I want to add "easy"
corals at a later date.
<<I see>>
I love to watch them flow with the water movement - it's mesmerizing and
relaxing. Is there a good suggested list to begin with knowing my starting
point?
<<Many choices… But what do “you” like? Best to start with a list of desired
fishes and then research them individually for compatibility and suitability
to your system>>
I've read for many hours on all the different types of fish and
invertebrates (Bob and Anthony's Reef Invertebrates is a great book).
<<Agreed>>
I thought I had a good handle on the list until now. The recommended list
was: 2 Yellow Tail Blue Hippo Tangs; which you said was too many for that
tank and one was even pushing it.
<<I did, yes>>
I found from reading that these didn't grow as large
<<Mmm…where did you read this I wonder?>>
as the yellow and purple's and the powder blue, so thought that was why he
was recommending them and that they got along better as a pair compared to
other tangs.
<<I don’t recommend a pair of “any” Tang/Surgeonfish from the same species
for your tank…and most certainly not Paracanthurus hepatus. This fish grows
LARGER and more robust than the two Zebrasoma and one Acanthurus species you
mention (to 12” in the wild>>. And in my opinion/experience, is one of the
more high-strung and easily damaged (socially/psychologically) tang
species…suffering terribly from just being “raised up” in a “too small”
system>>
So you're vote is no for a 120g.
<<Yes…better choices available>>
Any similar type fish that you would recommend - I'm for long term survival
- I cry when any fish die - that's just me.
<<Though I stated I don’t recommend a pair from the same species (or genera,
for that matter) for your tank…I do think you could get away with two from
“differing” genera, with some though to selection and introduction. The
Yellow or Purple Tang would be a fine Zebrasoma choice for the 120…and among
Acanthurus species I think A. japonicus (White-Faced or Gold-Rimmed Tang) or
A. pyroferus (Chocolate or Mimic Tang) are good choices…you could also
choose one of the smaller Ctenochaetus species if you wish like C. strigosus
(Kole Tang)>>
7 Blue Green Chromis; these are ok?
<<These are considered a more “docile” Damsel species, and are always a
popular choice for a “schooling” fish…but with the exception of very large
tanks (several hundred gallons and more), I don’t really recall any
instances where the subordinate individuals didn’t all just “disappear”
until only one or two specimens were left. As such, it is hard for me to
recommend these. If you decide to give them a go, I do recommend no more
than five for your tank>>
I like to watch the schooling – if not any other suggestions?
<<Either Sphaeramia nematoptera (PJ or Pajama Cardinal) or Apogon
leptacanthus (Threadfin or Longspine Cardinal) would be more successful
re…in my opinion. And again…no more than five either species>>
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish; You said these are difficult to keep
<<Many come in “damaged” from collection/shipping>>
- so odd that he recommends for a beginner
<<Differences of opinion…though they can be very hardy/long-lived if a
“healthy” specimen can be obtained and acclimates well>>
- what about other angelfish?
<<Ah well, my personal fave Centropyge species is C. loricula (Flame Angel).
These are gorgeous fish that do well in captive settings…and the best choice
here I think>>
1 Longnose Hawkfish, 3 Banggai Cardinal fish, you said these would likely
end up as a pair.
<<Yes>>
Why? Because one would be killed off??
<<Indirectly…through stress, yes>>
Then I only want to start with two...so these are better as pairs or more
than 3?
<<Results are much like those of the Chromis... And just purchasing a “pair”
can be difficult as differences between sexes are not readily apparent (the
male has a more angular head and a longer second dorsal fin)>>
I want to add the Long-Spine Urchin because of the relationship they have
with the cardinals
<<Mmm…more as juveniles than adults>>
- similar to the clown and the anemone but urchins are hopefully hardier
than the anemones.
<<Diadema sp Urchins can get quite large…and in my experience can be
destructive in a reef system...but the choice is yours>>
Any other suggestions? The more I read, the more I get nervous that I may
mix Pacific fish with Atlantic and so on and really do want what's best for
the fish.
<<Do look up your choices/selections on fishbase.org. This site is very
useful for determining locale/origin… and for determining adult “size” of
the fishes you are thinking of keeping>>
Any suggestions for other invertebrates with these suggestions for a
beginner?
<<Hmm…the Hawkfish will make adding shrimp difficult as they may be preyed
upon…but do consider some detritus feeding snails like Nassarius sp and
maybe a Brittle Starfish or two>>
I wouldn't mind starting off with a known successful mix rather than trial
and error by killing off perfectly helpless fish.
<<Nothing is a guarantee…even “my” selections [big grin]>>
I've read the article on Steven Pro's 55 gal setup http://www.pmas.org/pro/
<<Ah yes, and do note how the tank is NOT filled up with rock…>>
but wish he would update us with his new 120 gal so I can see how he stocked
it.
<<Why not ask him to do so (http://forum.marinedepot.com/Forum14-1.aspx)>>
Do you know what he ended up doing?
<<I’m afraid I don’t>>
He had a Maroon Clownfish-Premnas biaculeatus an Orange Tail Fiji
Damsel-Chrysiptera cyanea, an Algae Blenny-Salarias fasciatus and a Yellow
Tang-Zebrasoma flavescens in the 55 gal. My tomato has been with me since
2004 and has been playing nice with the mandarin who has been with me for
over 6 mos. I couldn't find any sample combination lists in the FAQ
sections, only very nice write ups on the individual species. Any help or
direction you can point me to would be absolutely great.
<<I hope I have done so>>
I have plenty of time, my new tank has to cycle for a few months, but need
to get my plan going so I know when to introduce my tomato - before or after
the others to help keep the fighting to a minimum. I want a happy tank!
Thanks so much Eric for all your help!
<<Quite welcome>>
Sorry my email is so long
<<No worries>>
- hopefully it gives you the info you need though to help me out!
Jean
<<Species selection is a serious process but is also part of the fun of
system setup. Do keep reading/researching, and feel free to discuss
with/bounce your selections off me if you wish. Regards, Eric Russell>>
My New In-Wall FOWLR System! –
04/21/08
Hello everyone at WWM!!
<<Hi there, Art!>>
I am currently in the final planning stages of setting up my 125G
"in-wall" tank (picture attached).
<<Neat…though speaking from experience (my current system is my second
“in-wall” system), I think you will find you wished you put some access
doors above the tank on the “front” side. Keeping the front glass clean
from “behind” is a real pain…and may even become impossible if corals
are kept/grow large>>
The R/O water is currently mixing in the tank with the salt and 135 lbs
of live rock will be arriving on Thursday.
<<Mmm, a lot of rock…do think to keep an “open” design to allow the
fishes room to swim>>
I also have a 55G corner tank with live rock, which was cycled with a
protein skimmer and water changes about a year ago (still do periodic
water changes). After the tank was cycled I read some information that
makes me question how I should cycle this larger tank.
<<Oh?>>
For my corner tank I ran my skimmer from the moment the rock was
introduced, but I read somewhere (I know it's not very helpful when I
can't recall from where.... but now it's at the back of my head) that
the protein skimmer shouldn't be turned on until your ammonia levels
sky-rocket.
<<I disagree…it is my opinion/preference to run the skimmer from day-1.
Letting Ammonia and Nitrite levels “sky-rocket” as you say only further
harms the emergent life on the rock>>
I don't know if this is correct or not, but to me, it doesn't seem very
beneficial to all of the microorganisms that make their home in the
rock.
<<Indeed…macro-organisms too>>
I will also be adding some rock from my sump/fuge along with that
"bacteria in a bottle". What is your opinion about cycling a tank with
the protein skimmer at onset?
<<Is my preference to do so>>
Now here is my other question. I have neglected, or better yet put
aside, my stocking list for this tank, because of all of the issues
associated with carpentry, plumbing, and everyday hassles that come with
building a new tank.
<<I see…and is understandable. But do give this aspect of the planning
process its due diligence>>
From the beginning I knew it was going to be a FOWLR tank, my 55G Reef
has cute small fish that get along with coral, but until recently I have
decided to keep more aggressive larger fish in the 125G since I now have
space for them.
<<Mmm…better than the 55g for sure>>
Here goes:
1 Humu Humu Trigger
1 Niger Trigger
<<Even at 125-gallons, this tank is not really big enough for this fish
in the long-term…and your stock-list should be with consideration for
the long-term>>
1 Volitans -or- Radiata Lionfish
<<Not a good choice with the triggers>>
1 Lyretail Wrasse
<<Would do better as a trio (a male and two females) in my opinion>>
1 Yellow Tang
2 Maroon Clowns
<<These will likely claim a good-size portion of the tank as their own>>
OK. So this is my dream list. I have a friend that has successfully kept
a Niger and Humu in the same (150 G) tank for about a year with no
problems,
<<A “year “ is neither “long-term” nor a measurement of “success”>>
but as I have read these fish aren't very predictable in the temperament
department, so I know it's not a guarantee.
<<Will be trouble sooner or later…for sure>>
Seeing as how all of these fish are aggressive, I think it's a gamble
either way to go with one or the other, but I would like to hear an
expert’s opinion.
<<Aggressive fishes or not…you can’t just lump any species together and
hope for the best. Compatibility is still an issue…and “just” getting
along or just “existing” in the same tank will manifest in social and
health issues. I recommend you pick a “show fish” you would like and
that is suitable to your tank size and then research/build a stock-list
of “suitable tankmates” around this fish>>
As for the Lionfish, I much prefer the look and size of the Radiata to
the Volitans, but from what I've seen at LFS they are not as easy to
come by.
<<Can likely be “ordered”>>
What do you recommend?
<<Volitans is “my” favorite (the black color phase), but go with your
fave…just not with the triggers>>
Do you think the Maroons would be able to hold their own in this tank?
<<A very aggressive Clownfish species…if not small enough to be
swallowed…likely, yes>>
I currently have a Maroon in "time out" aka my sump/fuge because what
was once a pretty friendly going fish, turned into a big bully from one
day to the next.
<<Not atypical>>
I would most likely introduce the clown fish first, to give them the
alpha seat, and then the other more aggressive fish at the same time, if
you approve of my list.
<<You have my opinions thus>>
I have a Skimmer rated for 250G because I know larger fish are pretty
messy eaters.
<<Yes, I see it…looks to be a Berlin HOT skimmer. These can work
“fair”…but usually need continual fiddling/adjustment…I would opt for a
better and more efficient make/model. I also see you have installed
check-valves on your pump return lines...a source of trouble. Best to
design the plumbing such that these devices are not necessary>>
If there is any more room in this tank I would like to put some smaller
(about the same size or smaller as the maroons) aggressive "dither" fish
to add some contrast and bring out the larger fish, but if I'm
overstocked already then I'll just stop now.
<<Mmm…not so much overstocked as mis-stocked>>
Thank you in advance for taking the time to answer my question!
<<Is my pleasure to share>>
Your site really is a godsend!
<<A collective effort…we’re happy you find it of use>>
Art Perez, 20
California
<<Eric Russell…South Carolina>> |
|
Re: My New In-Wall FOWLR System! –
04/23/08
Thanks for the quick reply,
<<Quite welcome Art…and thank you for writing back as it gives me the
opportunity to correct a mistake I made during our previous
correspondence which I will explain shortly>>
I am taking your advice and have decided not to add the Niger or the
Lionfish.
<<For the best…considering>>
I love the shape and color of the Lyretail Wrasse, so having 3 sounds
like a good idea to me! Will I have enough room in the long run? If so,
my only problem regarding this species is being able to find females. Do
I just purchase 3 similar sized specimens and hope they are all females
and the dominant one becomes male?
<<This is where I made an error in my reading of your previous query,
Art. My eyes saw you had written Lyretail Wrasse, but my brain processed
Lyretail “Anthias.” Even if three of this Thalassoma species of wrasse
were to get along (not a likely occurrence), your 125g tank is too small
for three very aggressive, foot-long, fast-movers. My apologies for the
error>>
I have made some revisions to my list.
Here goes:
2 Maroon Clowns
1 Purple Pseudochromis
1 Yellow Tang
3 Lunare Wrasse
<<Should be amended to ‘1’>>
3 Yellowtail Damsels
1 Snowflake Eel
Do you think an angel of either Annularis or Imperator would be a good
"show fish" for this tank?
Or would it be harassed by the Tang and the wrasse?
<<Spectacular fishes for sure…and either one would be “King Fish” in
this tank…but either one would require a tank at least double the size
of yours in the long term. Best to keep looking for another “show
fish”>>
As for the order I was thinking of putting the clowns, Pseudochromis,
and damsels in at the same time, and let them establish themselves.
<<Probably fine>>
Then put the eel and the Angel, (if suitable) and finally add the
wrasses and the tang. Should the order be altered?
<<Since the Angel is out (at least these two species), the Thalassoma
Lunare should go in last>>
Thanks in advance!!
<<Always welcome… And again…sorry for the earlier mis-communication.
EricR>> |
My New In-Wall FOWLR System! –
04/21/08
Hello everyone at WWM!!
<<Hi there, Art!>>
I am currently in the final planning stages of setting up my 125G
"in-wall" tank (picture attached).
<<Neat…though speaking from experience (my current system is my second
“in-wall” system), I think you will find you wished you put some access
doors above the tank on the “front” side. Keeping the front glass clean
from “behind” is a real pain…and may even become impossible if corals
are kept/grow large>>
The R/O water is currently mixing in the tank with the salt and 135 lbs
of live rock will be arriving on Thursday.
<<Mmm, a lot of rock…do think to keep an “open” design to allow the
fishes room to swim>>
I also have a 55G corner tank with live rock, which was cycled with a
protein skimmer and water changes about a year ago (still do periodic
water changes). After the tank was cycled I read some information that
makes me question how I should cycle this larger tank.
<<Oh?>>
For my corner tank I ran my skimmer from the moment the rock was
introduced, but I read somewhere (I know it's not very helpful when I
can't recall from where.... but now it's at the back of my head) that
the protein skimmer shouldn't be turned on until your ammonia levels
sky-rocket.
<<I disagree…it is my opinion/preference to run the skimmer from day-1.
Letting Ammonia and Nitrite levels “sky-rocket” as you say only further
harms the emergent life on the rock>>
I don't know if this is correct or not, but to me, it doesn't seem very
beneficial to all of the microorganisms that make their home in the
rock.
<<Indeed…macro-organisms too>>
I will also be adding some rock from my sump/fuge along with that
"bacteria in a bottle". What is your opinion about cycling a tank with
the protein skimmer at onset?
<<Is my preference to do so>>
Now here is my other question. I have neglected, or better yet put
aside, my stocking list for this tank, because of all of the issues
associated with carpentry, plumbing, and everyday hassles that come with
building a new tank.
<<I see…and is understandable. But do give this aspect of the planning
process its due diligence>>
From the beginning I knew it was going to be a FOWLR tank, my 55G Reef
has cute small fish that get along with coral, but until recently I have
decided to keep more aggressive larger fish in the 125G since I now have
space for them.
<<Mmm…better than the 55g for sure>>
Here goes:
1 Humu Humu Trigger
1 Niger Trigger
<<Even at 125-gallons, this tank is not really big enough for this fish
in the long-term…and your stock-list should be with consideration for
the long-term>>
1 Volitans -or- Radiata Lionfish
<<Not a good choice with the triggers>>
1 Lyretail Wrasse
<<Would do better as a trio (a male and two females) in my opinion>>
1 Yellow Tang
2 Maroon Clowns
<<These will likely claim a good-size portion of the tank as their own>>
OK. So this is my dream list. I have a friend that has successfully kept
a Niger and Humu in the same (150 G) tank for about a year with no
problems,
<<A “year “ is neither “long-term” nor a measurement of “success”>>
but as I have read these fish aren't very predictable in the temperament
department, so I know it's not a guarantee.
<<Will be trouble sooner or later…for sure>>
Seeing as how all of these fish are aggressive, I think it's a gamble
either way to go with one or the other, but I would like to hear an
expert’s opinion.
<<Aggressive fishes or not…you can’t just lump any species together and
hope for the best. Compatibility is still an issue…and “just” getting
along or just “existing” in the same tank will manifest in social and
health issues. I recommend you pick a “show fish” you would like and
that is suitable to your tank size and then research/build a stock-list
of “suitable tankmates” around this fish>>
As for the Lionfish, I much prefer the look and size of the Radiata to
the Volitans, but from what I've seen at LFS they are not as easy to
come by.
<<Can likely be “ordered”>>
What do you recommend?
<<Volitans is “my” favorite (the black color phase), but go with your
fave…just not with the triggers>>
Do you think the Maroons would be able to hold their own in this tank?
<<A very aggressive Clownfish species…if not small enough to be
swallowed…likely, yes>>
I currently have a Maroon in "time out" aka my sump/fuge because what
was once a pretty friendly going fish, turned into a big bully from one
day to the next.
<<Not atypical>>
I would most likely introduce the clown fish first, to give them the
alpha seat, and then the other more aggressive fish at the same time, if
you approve of my list.
<<You have my opinions thus>>
I have a Skimmer rated for 250G because I know larger fish are pretty
messy eaters.
<<Yes, I see it…looks to be a Berlin HOT skimmer. These can work
“fair”…but usually need continual fiddling/adjustment…I would opt for a
better and more efficient make/model. I also see you have installed
check-valves on your pump return lines...a source of trouble. Best to
design the plumbing such that these devices are not necessary>>
If there is any more room in this tank I would like to put some smaller
(about the same size or smaller as the maroons) aggressive "dither" fish
to add some contrast and bring out the larger fish, but if I'm
overstocked already then I'll just stop now.
<<Mmm…not so much overstocked as mis-stocked>>
Thank you in advance for taking the time to answer my question!
<<Is my pleasure to share>>
Your site really is a godsend!
<<A collective effort…we’re happy you find it of use>>
Art Perez, 20
California
<<Eric Russell…South Carolina>> |
|
|
FOWLR/Compatibility 4/17/08
Hello--
<Hi Tom>
Let me first off state that your website is a terrific resource. The volume of
information is almost overwhelming!
<Thank you.>
I have a 75 gal reef tank that has been set up for about four years. For the
most part its inhabitants have thrived, although I have quite a bubble algae
problem on my hands. A few months ago my wife and I honeymooned in Kauai, and
after returning home and thinking about it I decided I would like a long-term
reminder of that trip. So I am planning on getting rid of the reef tank and
constructing a FOWLR tank.
It will be sad to say goodbye to the corals but I am pretty sure this is the
direction I want long-term.
I was planning on buying a new tank anyway, one with a built-in overflow, so one
question is in regards to tank size. The fish I would like to keep include a
Rectangular Trigger, a Raccoon Butterfly, a Dragon Wrasse, and a tang or two. I
currently have a Blue Hippo tang in the reef tank and would like to keep it as
I'm quite partial to it. Ideally I would also keep one Yellow Tang or one
Convict Tang. Which would you recommend in this setup (or neither)?
<Both the Dragon Wrasse and the Trigger are aggressive fish, they could be kept
together but I wouldn't chance putting the tangs in there with them. As for the
tangs, I'd go with a Yellow Tang, will give more color to the system and should
get along well with the Hippo. Do add them at the same time.>
So am I missing any compatibility problems with these fish? What size tank will
I need?
<With the tangs, I'd go with at least a 125 gallon tank and go for length and
width rather than height. The same would hold true for triggerfish and the
Dragon Wrasse.>
I know it would be out of place, but I have always loved lionfish. If I added
one of them, what size tank would it need to be?
<The above will work fine.>
Finally, are there any species of coral that would likely survive? Everything
seems to point to "no", but I am hoping there might be an exception that you are
aware of.
<I would not, the Dragon Wrasse is very adept at moving rock and pieces of rock
landing on corals would lead to their demise. Triggerfish have the habit of
looking under rocks for tidbits also, but do not have quite the rearranging
skills of a Dragon Wrasse. Do search/read on our site on fish you have in mind
before making any decisions, make sure compatibility and requirements can be
met.>
Thank you so much for the help. Have a great week.
<Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Tom
|
Stocking 75g...Maybe
FOWLR – 04/14/08
I would just like approval before I dive in.
<<Happy to provide my opinions>>
My tank is 48" x 18" x 20"
Currently in tank.
6 Chromis
None of these fish have been added...but this is what I'm thinking.
Gold striped maroon clown
Yellow tang
Blue Hippo, I know he will outgrow the tank, and when he does I will
take him to the LFS.
<<A fine notion, though the fish will likely expire before this is
realized. Aside from “outgrowing” the tank, this large, robust but
“twitchy” Tang species will suffer from just “growing up” in a too-small
system…resulting in health and behavioral issues that will certainly
shorten its life. Do yourself and this fish a favor, and take a pass
here>>
Humu Humu Triggerfish, again I know he will outgrow the tank, but it
will take awhile.
<<Indeed…and a better prospect for growing up in this tank than the
Hippo Tang. Also important to keep in mind here…although this is one of
the more “sociable” species of Triggerfishes…overcrowding can/will lead
to problems, especially as the fish matures>>
And maybe 2 pink square anthias.
<<These large Anthiines are better suited to a larger tank…and too,
unless received as a male-female pair, would not likely co-exist in this
size tank>>
I have a wet dry sump, 3 inch sand bed, and about 75lbs of dense and
porous rock.
<<Hmm…isn’t that a contradiction (dense and porous)?>>
There is a good amount of swimming room.
<<An important aspect to the fish’s social health. EricR>>
Re: Stocking
75g...Maybe FOWLR – 04/14/08
I might pass on the hippo,
<<I do strongly suggest this>>
and the anthias.
<<Probably for the better>>
Just stick with the gold stripe maroon, yellow tang, school of chromis
(or rather group of shoaling chromis) and Humu, for a while.
<<You will likely find that this “fills you up”…especially as the fish
mature>>
Oh and I meant I have both dense and porous rock.
<<Ah!>>
One of them is a shelf rock, beautiful, however weighs quite a bit.
<<I see>>
Any other suggestions?
<<Pertaining to stocking? The Trigger, Tang, and Clown you have listed,
along with the half-dozen Chromis, should about do it for this tank.
Regards, EricR>> |
Inverts... title please...
sel. 04/11/2008
Hello
<<Hi, Andrew today>>
I have a 72 gallon FOWLR tank.
My stocking list looks like this:
2 Ocellaris clowns
1 Blue-green Chromis
1 Royal Gramma
1 Neon goby
1 Yellow tang
1 Scott's fairy wrasse
1 Flame Angel
1 Black brittle star
2 cleaner shrimp
30 Nassarius snails
5 Cerith snails
I still have not purchased the wrasse or angel for my tank yet.
<<I would suggest you don't have anymore room for more fish>>
Fishwise my tank is pretty stocked and lately I've become interested in the
inverts for my tank. I have been looking to add some but I am starting to get
worried that I might overload the tank or worse off starve them to death as I do
not like to overfeed my fish. I am looking to add 3 camel shrimp, an urchin
(probably a pincushion) an emerald crab for my hair algae and a pink sandsifting
cucumber. Would this be to much for my tank?
<<I would add all besides the cucumber, its personal preference, but i have seen
too many tanks go bad because of an issue with these, and to me, its not worth
the risk. With regards to feeding / bioload...Its all fine, you should not
experience any issues>>
Thanks, Adam Law
<<Hope this helps, thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>
|
Stocking levels for 65 gallon
04/07/2008
Hi
<<Hello Dean, Andrew with you today>>
I'm going to start a 65 gallon FOWLR tank with separate filter sump,T5
lighting, protein skimmer. The fish i want to keep in it after gaining
experience keeping damsels are as follows
1.Coral Beauty
2.Royal Gramma
3.Purple Tang
4.Long Nosed Butterfly fish ( would drop it from my wish list if i would be
overstocking with it)
i just want to make sure I wouldn't be over-stocking
<<Do you still have the Damsels? If so, i would remove them and return to a
store for some credit as these will cause aggression issues. All the above are
fine except the tang. This would need a larger home. Look for another room mate
which does not get so big.>>
Thanks
kind regards
Dean
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Re: 65gal Stocking
FOWLR question 04/09/2008
Hi WWM crew
<<G'Morning, Andrew today>>
I have already asked you if a coral beauty, long nosed butterfly fish,
Royal Gramma and a purple tang in a 65 gallon FOWLR tank would be
overstocking, you said it would be alright except for the tang and you
advised that I search for another compatible tank mate. I was wondering
if 2 black and white false clowns would be a good replacement.
<<Sounds like a very good choice to me, tank bred, not wild caught of
course ;O) >>
thanks for all the help
Kind regards
Dean
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Re: stocking levels
for 65 gallon 04/09/2008
yes, I was planning on removing the damsels from the tank and taking
them back to the store, I've heard they can severely attack or even kill
other fish that are added to the tank .
<<Very true>>
So I'll drop the purple tang. I've also got another question. Are you
meant to add the substrate before adding the saltwater to the tank or
after.
<<It does not really make much difference. I do find it easier when
setting up a new tank to put the sand in first, leaving the empty space
for the live rock, add saltwater, add rock, fill in the sand. This way,
the rock is sitting firmly on the glass bottom and provides stability to
the rock structure>>
Thanks for all the help
kind regards
Dean
<<Thanks for the questions and follow up. A Nixon>>
Re: 65gal Stocking
question 04/09/2008
yes tank bred of course
<<Good stuff>>
What order should the fish be added (Coral Beauty, Long nosed
Butterflyfish, Royal Gramma and two black and white false clowns.)
<<I would go clowns first, coral beauty, butterfly and Gramma>>
And another question, are there any tangs that be kept in a 65 gallon
FOWLR.
<<I would august not, no, i am afraid>>
Thanks for all the help
Kind Regards
Dean
<<Thanks, A Nixon>> |
Mixing Wrasse In FOWLR…other
stocking questions 3/31/08
Hi guys,
<<Hello Brian.>>
Got a quick question that I hope you can help me out with.
<<I will try.>>
I have a 72 gallon FOWLR. Currently in the tank include 2 ocellaris clowns, a
yellow tang (3 inch), and 2 scarlet shrimp. A mystery wrasse 2.5
inch (Pseudocheilinus mysterii) was added last week. I wanted to add a few more
wrasses but wanted to confirm compatibility. My LFS has a great
looking Laboutei wrasse (Cirrhilabrus laboutei) and blue flasher wrasse, can
those two be added together safely with my current stocking list?
<<In all honesty, with one established wrasse, and considering the overall
volume of the aquarium I would not.>>
My plans to finish the tank will probably include a dwarf flame angel and
possibly an Auriga butterfly.
<<Skip the butterfly.>>
Thanks in advance for you advice,
~ Brian
<<Adam J.>>
A Centerpiece Fish Without
The Bit! (Compatibility Query) -03/27/08
Hello,
<Hey there! Scott F. in tonight!>
About 3 months ago, we bought a 75 gallon tank with a CPR Backpack2
filter/skimmer and Emperor 400 BioWheel. Our levels all seem to be in check. We
purchased a clean up package offered online including Hermit Crabs, 1 Arrow
Crab, 1 Sally Lightfoot, 2 Emerald Crabs, Turbo and Nassarius snails, and 2
Peppermint Shrimp. We have 40 lbs of live rock and 80 lbs of live sand. Our
first fish purchases included 2 Maroon Clowns and 1 Lawnmower Blenny. We have
been looking for more tank mates and would really like to get a Canthigaster
supramacula. What do you think about the compatibility of this fish with what we
have? Or do you have any other suggestion for a "centerpiece" fish.
<Well, the genus Canthigaster is filled with reasonably-sized fish that,
although attractive and generally interesting, tend to be notorious for nipping
and biting the fins off of their tankmates! I'd be hesitant to add this fish to
your aquarium. Your fishes and invertebrates will thank you! An interesting
"centerpiece" fish would be something like a Flame Hawkfish, or perhaps a trio
of small Fairy Wrasses, or even a small Centropyge Angelfish (like C. argi,
etc.)?>
In addition, do we need to purchase an aerator or are our filters adequate for
this job?
<If the returns are breaking the surface tension of the water and creating some
turbulence at the air/water interface, I don't think that you'll need additional
aeration for your system.>
Thanks
Andrea
<Glad to be of service! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
45 Gallon Fish Only Stocking
3/26/08
Hello WWM Crew!
<Hello Michelle.>
First of all, thank you for maintaining such a great website. It's been really
useful for a newbie like me, and a good deal of my basic information has been
gleaned from its resources.
<Thank you, this site is a honor to be part of!>
I'm starting my first saltwater tank (I've done numerous freshwater). I say
"starting", but really I'm continuing a failed 45-gallon saltwater tank my
friend gave to me, as a school project. There is nothing wrong with the tank; my
friend just never got further than two inches of sand, a clownfish
(*Amphiprion ocellaris)*, a striped damsel *(Dascyllus melanurus*)*,* and a
black molly *(Poecilia latipinna)*. It has, however, been established for
over a year and there ar |
