
|
|
FAQs on Glass Aquarium Repair, Frames/Moulding/Trim
Related Articles: Aquarium Repair,
Acrylic Aquarium Repair, Cleaning
Aquariums, Marine Tanks, Stands and Covers, Used
Gear for Marine Systems, Designer Marine
tanks, stands and covers, Related
FAQs: Glass Aquarium Repair 1,
Glass Aquarium Repair 2, Glass
Aquarium Repair 3, Glass
Aquarium Repair 4,
Glass Aquarium Repair 5, & FAQs on Repairing Glass Tank:
Scratches/Blemishes, Cross-Braces,
Leaks, Chips/Cracks,
Whole Panes, Tools: Cutting Glass,
Silicone; Techniques;
Olde Tank (Slate Bottom, Metal Frame, Pecora...) Repairs,
Troubleshooting/Repairs, &
Acrylic Aquarium Repair, Used
Aquarium Gear, |
This material is largely non-structural (unless part of bracing)... useful for for assembling
tanks... However, it is necessary to hide water lines, and must be
complete or entirely absent for the bottom rim for supporting the
"floating bottom" within it.
Aqueonproducts.com (used to be AGA) |
Cracked Frame 10/15/09
<Hello Doug>
I have one long continuous crack in the bottom black plastic frame of my
210 gallon tank along the entire bottom of one side of the tank.
<From what I can tell you are talking about the black plastic frame on
an all glass style tank?>
The crack has also wrapped around the front corner and spread about 8
inches in on the front section. I filled the crack on the front section
with silicone and this seems to have stopped the crack from spreading. I
also covered the cracked side section with JB Weld hoping this would
help stop future cracking. I would describe the cracking as hairline
since the cracks are not large, but what concerns me is that it is one
continuous crack along the entire bottom of frame and due to how All
Glass builds their tanks, the side section with the primary crack is a
weight bearing side.
<Doug, generally these frames are considered visually pleasing, not so
much functional, they are also helpful during the initial assembly of
the tank. If it was the center brace on the top I would be more
concerned. Please read here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/glstkmoldng.htm?h=cracked+frame for
yourself.>
Please let me know if I am overreacting or if this something I truly
need to worry about.
<Your likely in good shape, but it never hurts to call the manufacturer
and have them send you a replacement for you to fit on when the tank is
empty.
Good luck and don't hesitate to contact All Glass,
Josh Solomon.>
Repairing 55 gal tank, trim, brace... 10/5/09
Hey Guys!
<Hey DAngelo! JustinN here tonight!>
I recently received a used 55 gal tank that the previous owner had kept
for years outside. After giving it a good cleaning I found the top trim
very loose and cracked in half in a couple of places. The bottom trim is
also a little loose.
<Ah yes, the baking of the sun. This former boat repair/body man knows
it all too well.>
I decided to remove the old top trim and wanted to know if it could be
glued with epoxy or super glue and then use silicone to reattach it to
the tank?
<Does this trim include a brace for the tank? If so, I wouldn't
bother... see below.>
After I removed the trim I thought about also removing all the old
silicone inside and replacing it. The tank doesn't leak, but I thought
it may be a good idea to do it due to the age of the tank.
<More so than the age, I'd be worried about the effects of the sun and
time.>
After reading some old post here I found that you recommend keeping the
top and bottom trim attached before resealing the sides and bottom
seams. If this is so, should I fix the top and bottom first and let them
cure before attempting to do the inside of the tank or can I do it all
at once? Thanks for any help you can provide.
<Resealing a tank is a tricky feat to start with -- considering the
deterioration of the frame (and potentially the bracing), I wouldn't
trust the tank as far as I can throw it... and leverage for a 55 gallon
isn't
real great in a wheelchair ;) Unfortunately, it really sounds like
you've got a lot of work involved for a relatively common (and typically
cheap) tank.. If you were to do a reseal job, I would likely reseal
every seam first, and perhaps even look into buying/building an entirely
new trim fascia for this tank. A less weathered tank might be more
optimal. Good luck! -JustinN>
|
Fish Tank Problem (72 gallon
All-Glass Bowfront)--------No Date on Purpose ;-P 05/26/09
I have a 72 gallon All-Glass Aquarium 72-gallon bowfront set-up that I
purchased in 2002. Recently the plastic top near the front bow has
started
to split (see attached photo).
<Unfortunately all too common with these tanks over time.>
I was wondering what my options were to manage this (a) can I order a
replacement top plastic piece (if so, any suggestions on how to
install)?,
(b)any way to repair this without removing the top piece and (b) do I
have to replace the tank?
<Well, there are a couple of avenues. You can fabricate an acrylic brace
and bolt it in with nylon screws and nuts. Search some of the larger
aquarium forums on removing the center brace and you will find much info
on this. For my tank I would simply call up the manufacturer and procure
a new top trim piece. They are not all that expensive. You will need to
drain the tank down somewhat, enough to where the bowing at the top is
small enough to fit the new piece. Replacing is fairly straightforward,
you will need to rip off/out the old trim. This can easily be done with
your fingers alone, they will just ache when you are done! Then cut off
what silicone you can with a razor, followed by siliconing in the new
trim.
Not all of the silicone needs to be completely off the glass as the
plastic does not truly bond to it anyhow.>
I've attached two photos:
1) - top view of the split in the top plastic piece
2) - left front seam (all other seams seem fine, however; when I run my
fingers along the seam it does seem to widen a bit toward the bottom of
the tank).
<I do not see an issue with this from the photo, has it changed over
time? Many times there will be larger gaps in the seam on the top
or bottom, no
real issue for concern.>
Any advice you can provide would be very valued.
With warm regards,
Mike Paul
Minnetonka, MN
<All above, Scott V., Fresno, CA>
Re: Fish Tank Problem (72 gallon All-Glass Bowfront) 5/26/09
Scott, thank you so much for the well thought response. I will go with
replacing the top piece!
Many thanks,
Mike
<Sounds good. Best, Scott V.>
|
 |
|
Re: Fish Tank Problem (72 gallon All-Glass
Bowfront) 9/3/09
I just wanted to follow up and let you know that your advice was right
on.
<Ah, good to know when one feels like they are losing their mind.>
I ordered the replacement top piece from Aqueon (All Glass Aquarium).
* I used a common moving strap that I put around the tank (about 10
inches from the top) as a safety net as I removed the existing top piece
(I used a Dremel and small hand saw to separate into four pieces).
* After removal of the existing top piece and old silicone, I put down
new silicone and fit the new piece in fairly easily.
* I let the silicone set for 15 minutes and then removed the moving
strap....everything went smoothly and the tank is in great order.
<Great!>
Definitely felt good about spending $50 for the top piece vs. the cost
of a new tank and hassle of scrapping an old one!
Again, thanks for the sage advice.
<Thank you for the update.>
Regards,
Mike Paul
<Scott V.>
|
Aquarium frame replacement
help 8/12/09
I appreciate the information you provide and have found it most helpful.
I have tried to find my answer all night and could not. I have a 150
gallon tank I purchased with stand for 50.00. I am resealing it. It has
3 cracks in the bottom frame, one in the middle and one on each side ~ 1
ft from the corner and the cracks are vertical and only on the front.
With all I have read this is not a problem. The top frame however needed
replaced for sure.
I removed the old one, cleaned all of the silicone off and then the new
frame wouldn't go on. It seems to be just a little shy of fitting the
glass.
<Mmm... you may need to contact the supplier, ask for one a skosh
larger... otherwise, if you have some practical way of heating up the
one have, you may find it will slip (with two friends pushing it toward
the free end and a rubber mallet's help) over the top glass>
Front to back and side to side are both too short by about a 1/16th in.
I am afraid to force it on. I thought about laying it in the sun for
awhile and see if the heat helped but then thought what if it shrinks
and breaks?
The tank frame is 72 x 18 in., the glass is 7/16ths in. thick and I see
an anchor on what's left of a little sticker on the bottom. The original
frame had one center brace the new frame has two and has a part
number 91120 on it.
<Mmm... is this an old Atlas tank?>
Any help would be appreciated. If this frame won't work can you point me
to appropriate options?
Thanks, Brian.
<Well... FWIW, or rather for what the frame's are worth structurally,
I'd just go with something home made that is ornamental around the
edges, but of use in the middle, one brace or two, or devise a
Euro-brace (see WWM, the Net re) and forget about straddling bracing...
In other words, you are not "locked into" using a conventional to
brace... these are more for looks, holding the panels in place while the
Silastic sealant is setting up, curing. Bob Fenner>
Cracked Bottom Trim On A 90
Gallon Tank – 07/30/09
Hello experts!
<<Uh-oh, pressure/expectations [grin]…Hiya Heidi!>>
I asked this question prior and received an adequate answer
<<Only “adequate”… (just messing with you)>>
but I have a little more to the story now.
<<Ah…okay>>
I have a 90 gallon RR AGA tank set up fully stocked and doing well. I
bought the tank used. The bottom black trim started to crack along the
back after I filled it and has now extended extensively all around the
base. Some pieces have even come off.
<<Not a concern>>
It hasn't bothered me (you guys reassured me it's only cosmetic)
<<Indeed…and a small amount of cushion/protection to the glass edges>>
but I am breaking down the tank because I am moving to Connecticut. I
have a friend that wants the tank but I'm scared to give it to him
because of the trim.
<<…?>>
I'm sure once it's empty the entire trim will come off. It definitely
needs to come off and it can't be glued back on as it will be in pieces.
<<You could try contacting the tank manufacturer to see if you can
obtain a new bottom trim piece>>
The trim around the top is fine. Can the tank sit on the stand without
bottom trim?
<<Sure…and though not really necessary, lining the top of the stand with
something like the thin fan-fold insulation material from a home center
(Lowe’s/HD) may provide some peace of mind here>>
I would hate for him to have a disaster so I'm looking for a little
guidance on what to suggest to him. I was going to just get rid of the
tank and buy myself a new one once I got settled in CT. I appreciate any
help you guys can give me! I want to do the right thing.
<<If the bottom trim is simply coming off due to brittleness of the
plastic/loss of adhesion there shouldn’t be any concerns…but…final
decision is up to you>>
Thank you,
Heidi
<<Happy to share… EricR>>
Re: Cracked Bottom Trim On A 90 Gallon Tank – 07/31/09
Thank you Eric!
<<Quite welcome Heidi>>
You guys always make me feel reassured!
<<Ah good>>
I did try to contact the manufacturer back when it first started
cracking. And, to no surprise, there was no phone number and they did
not reply to emails. Go figure!
Thanks again for being a great resource for us needy hobbyists! No
pressure....=)
Heidi
<<Happy to help my friend… EricR>>
|
Crack in Trim 7/2/09
Hello-
<Hello Douglas.>
I recently bought a used 72 gallon Oceanic bowfront tank. While cleaning the
tank, I noticed that the trim along the bottom is cracked at the right front
corner. I have checked the tank all over, and everything else seems to be in
good order (the braces, the glass, etc.) I was wondering if this crack is a
concern; i.e. will this compromise the structural integrity of he tank, or
is it purely aesthetic?
<Nope, a purely aesthetic issue here, no worries.>
Please find attached a picture of the crack.
<Likely either from a drop at some point or the corner getting
knocked/banged.>
Thank you for your time and help!!!
<Welcome.>
Douglas Maki
<Scott V.>
|
 |
48" Bowfront all glass
5/14/09
Tank Repair
Hello,
<Hello Marianne?>
I have a 48" all glass bowfront tank which is leaking from the lower
right hand corner, but in order to make repairs I need to replace the
plastic trim surrounding the tank. I <Are> there any place on the Web
where I might get those braces?
<I'd contact the manufacturer of the tank or an etailer that carries All
Glass aquariums. A Google search should give you plenty of hits.>
Thank you
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Tank Repair, trim/frame 3/11/09
Hi I'm Dylan.
<Hello Dylan, James here today.>
I have a fifty five gallon tall fish tank that is missing the bottom
trim/molding, is it needed?
<No, just cosmetic.>
If so where can I get it some, one told me I should just make one out of
wood and dry wall screws?
<Too much work for me.>
You be the judge and how much do you think it would cost me for new
trim?
<I don't know the pricing of trim, but I'm sure it isn't very expensive.
Better to contact your dealer.>
Thank you for your time!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Missing Tank Frame 2/7/09 Hello WWM crew. <Hello Johnny.>
I am a freshwater hobbyist and found your site by searching the web for
"fish tank repairs" That’s right I have a broken tank. I did find the
subject in your site but continued to have an error when on your site. I
don’t know why, I figure my pc don’t like fish. <I am a Mac guy
anyway!> Any how this is my situation. A friend of mine has given me
a 100 gallon long tank that he said was leaking and today I picked it
up. WOW its heavy and it is a mess! Now cleaning the glass is no problem
and resealing the tank is something I’ve done before. However the frame
or most of it is missing. This is the only thing that will keep me from
having this tank restored to its intended capacity. <OK, not life or
death.> I have the ability to have a stainless steel frame made and
welded at cost but I don’t know if this is the best way to go with
reframing this tank. <No, not really. If the tank needs a functional
cross brace that may have been built into the frame there are better
ways to repair IMO.> I was hoping to converse with some one on this
matter. The tank has a recessed bottom and if it is necessary for you to
see it I can take photos and send them to you. <Well, the trim can be
functional it some cases. For many it is just aesthetic. So, my first
question to you is do you know if the frame has or had any kind of cross
brace built in? If not you need not worry about the integrity of the
tank. If so do search the web and WWM re crossbracing or eurobracing.
Either way you can contact the tank’s manufacturer (if you know who made
it) regarding replacement frames. If the glass thickness and tank
dimensions are one of the more common sizes you may be able to get a
frame that will fit from about any tank manufacturer.> I have had
fish over 25 years and this is my first tank over 50 gallons. And I’m as
excited about this tank as I was about my first tank. The child will
never die and as they say BIGGER IS BETTER. <Heee, know that
feeling!> I’m looking forward to your reply JOHNNY <Hope this
helps out, Scott V.> Re: Thanks... Missing Tank Frame
2/8/09 Thanks for your prompt reply on the missing frame.
<My pleasure.> Cross bracing, interesting. Never thought of that! It
would be so much easier to add that rather than the whole frame.
<Yes.> And as far as looks I plan on making my own hood for this one.
<Good.> I am going to do some more investigation on this as you
suggested. And will be reading more from WWM on the cross bracing and
other things. I see a lot of interesting topics in this site (one of the
best I've found). <Thank you, I think so too.> I will be sending
all my fish buddies to it too. Again I would like to thank you for
your prompt reply. And I have added you to my mail addresses for future
use. JOHNNY <LOL, thanks and welcome, Scott V.>
Vertical cracks in tank trim 1/3/09
Okay, I'm sure that this question has been asked a hundred times, but I
just can't seem to find an answer that is really applicable to my
situation. So, sorry if you've already answered this!! <Don't think
we have... as yet!> I recently bought a 75 gallon aquarium with lots
of accessories for just $60. <Way under a dollar per pound!> The
only thing lacking was the stand. I finally got one at the local LFS
after convincing hubby that $210 wasn't that much to spend on it and
would be much, much better than getting a cheap used dresser. In my
excitement, I quickly set up the tank and filled it (I had tested it
partly when I first got it but didn't fill it all the way up then) to
about 2" from the top. I left it overnight and for the next day, and
there was no sign of leakage or anything. Due to all the silt from the
play sand (gave up and got gravel instead), I drained it and refilled
it. I switched over the filters, decor, etc from a smaller tank that was
housing the fish that were to go into the 75g. I also used some media
from another tank. That all went well, and this is day 4 with water and
everything. I have not had any trouble with leaking or anything. My
concern is that the trim is cracked vertically at 3 and possibly all 4
of the bottom corners. There may be more cracks that I have not seen
yet. Hubby thinks they are hideous, but I don't even notice them
because I'm looking at the fish. But I am worried that they may cause
the tank to fail. <Me too...> I really don't want to lose my fish
and ruin my house! There is even a bit of a gap between the trim and the
glass on one corner. I'm not sure what brand the tank is, but there is a
symbol like a slightly tipped anchor on the bottom of the tank. The
symbol looks a sort of like the Perfecto symbol on one of my lights.
<May well be> I, unfortunately, have not taken any pictures of these
cracks. <Really need to see these> The bottom and top middle
braces seem to be intact. Also, the silicone seems just fine. I do not
see any chips or cracks or even scratches in the glass. I know I was
hasty in filling this tank, but I was just so excited about finally
getting the stand. Also, I had posted on aquarium forums regarding this
question in the past (among others), but no one addressed the cracked
trim. Everyone focused on the other questions. I am finding conflicting
information regarding whether or not I need to worry about it. I
really, really do not want to attempt trying to replace the trim. I
don't have the time or patience to try this nor do I have that DIY
ability. I'd rather just buy a new tank if need be. Especially since I
do not know the brand of the tank and hence would not know who to
contact about it. Thanks for any help!!! Bekah Loofboro <Where
are the cracks? In the "front" as in the vertical pieces? Do they run
only horizontally? Did you place anything under the glass, or the entire
frame underneath? IF the cracking is "only superficial"... i.e. it's not
splitting outward, allowing uneven pressure, you're likely fine... but I
might put a piece of foam under the tank, twixt the stand and it, to
even out the weight... Please do take, send images... Bob Fenner> |
Re: Vertical cracks in tank trim Thanks for the quick
reply! I was able to take a few pictures of the cracks in the trim.
<Nice ones!> I couldn't really get the ones in the back of the
tank. All four corners on the top and the bottom trim have cracks
running vertically (some slightly horizontal, but overall vertical).
So, I guess that's 8 corner cracks, really. I also took a look at
the bottom brace in the middle, and that also has a crack in it,
though that runs from the back of the tank to about the middle of
the tank (parallel to the ends of the tank, perpendicular to the
front and back of the tank). I was not able to get a picture of
that. Attached are pictures of the front bottom corners and one
of the top front corners. So, could I get by without replacing the
frame(s)? If the bottom brace wasn't cracked, would it be safe?
The stand is a Perfecto, so it is designed to take the weight at the
corners (that's what the salesman said). <Correct> The middle
is open, and we did not put anything under it. <Agree> The
glass sits on top of the frame, rather than flush with the frame, if
that makes sense. Bekah Loofboro <These are strange cracks...
unusual in that all are about the same... I do think they are due to
shrinking of the material of the frames themselves... The best
way I can express myself re the use of this tank is: "If it were
mine, and knowing what I do re Perfecto and their fine history of
glass aquarium manufacture, I would continue to use this tank as
is." It is my opinion that this tank is unlikely to fail as a
consequence of these frame cracks. Cheers, Bob Fenner> | 
 |
Broken trim, Center support 10/31/08 I have a 75 gallon
aquarium that I purchased from PETSMART in 1994. The center brace
snapped at the back trim and took some of the moulding with it. I am at
a loss. Do you have any suggestions? <Measure the footprint (width
and length) of the tank. Just about any tank manufacturer with the same
footprint tank will be able to supply you with new trim, just be sure it
has the center brace too (most will at this size). Scott V.>
Aquarium repair made easier, glass, frame removal 10/20/08
Good Morning Crew from Florida!! <Hello Tom.> I hope all is well
with all Crew and readers. <Me too!> I thought that I would pass
on some information that I learned trying to repair a 150G AGA tank. In
taking down the tank in preparation for a massive remodel project, I
broke one of the braces. Lucky for us, we have a 125G long “back up”
tank to house our fishy family. <Quite a backup!> Five weeks later
the house is done and I have my garage back, so I started working on
replacing the frame. I found that I wasn’t getting anywhere trying to
cut the silicone loose to pry the frame off. Let me add that I have
arthritis in the thumbs on both hands and don’t have the grip strength
that I once had. <These frames can be tough to remove.> After
some thinking, I came up with a better way to remove the frame. All it
takes is a Dremel, a large number of cutting wheels and a steady hand.
Through trial and error, I found that if I cut the frame along the top
edge, the ‘high’ part of the frame, not the recessed part that the glass
lids sit in, I was able to separate the frame into 2 pieces (the top and
the side) making it easier to remove. Naturally, I cut the silicone
first. Even though I took my time and was careful not to touch the glass
with the cutting wheels, the times I did resulted in no damage to the
glass and more often then not, a broken cutting wheel. Anyone trying
this will find that the wheel also melts the plastic, so multiple passes
are required to get down to the glass. After spending about an hour just
using the knife to cut the silicone and not making any headway, I
removed one long side and the 2 short sides in about 15 minutes when I
ran out of cutting wheels. Today it is off to Home Depot for more
cutting wheels and the Toluene for cleaning the silicone that I couldn’t
scrape off (this I got from reading the archives, it does pay to
read!!!). I hope this makes a somewhat painful process (at least with my
arthritis) easier to get done. Once again, I want to thank the Crew for
their collective efforts. When you share your skills/knowledge to help
others, blessings come back tenfold to you. Thanks again! <Thank you
for sharing, Scott V.> Thomas N. (Tom) idea for
refinishing decorative area on hexagon tank... Repair, frame –
09/07/08 Hello. Firstly, I want to thank you for operating
this wonderful, and informative website. I have learned much by reading
through the countless questions and answers here. <Ahh! It is for
you, your benefit> My question today deals with a 29 gallon hexagon
tank that my girlfriend came by. It is made by O'Dell, <A worthy
manufacturer of the seventies, eighties... of glass systems> and it
is the type on which the top and bottom have a border of some type of
glossy black film. <Mmm, plastic> I am sure that it looked really
good in its day, but now the film is damaged and peeling off, so I would
like to rework this nice, if not the most desirable shaped, tank.
<This "surround" is useful... to prevent chipping, directly damaging the
glass> I was thinking of peeling off this glossy black film, <Best to
place something here for the above reason and looks... though not
structurally important> and painting the underlying wood/particle
board with glossy black Rustoleum. <A good idea> The water in the
tank does not come in contact with this outside area; it is strictly
decorative. I looked into getting perhaps a glossy black contact paper,
but all I found was stuff that was selling for $65 per 49 foot roll, and
I definitely do not need that much. What do you think of my idea of
using Rustoleum in this instance? <Also a good product (line) and
application> Thanks for your suggestions. Best regards, Jeff
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Broken 55g top frame w/ support 8/16/08 Hi, Love your site...
very informative! <Great, thank you!> I found a link in a post on
where to purchase the top frame with support for a 55g tank. The link
would not work for me. Any other suggestions? <Most all manufacturers
will sell these frames, it would be best to contact your particular
manufacturer directly. Most 55 gallon tanks are made to the same specs,
if you have no luck with your particular manufacturer do check the
dimensions vs. those posted at Aqueonproducts.com (used to be AGA), they
have been particularly helpful/customer service oriented.> Warmest
Regards! <Have a good one, Scott V.>
Staining and varnishing tank trim, and live rock pollution? 2/22/08
Hi. <Hello there.> I am refinishing an old wood trimmed tank with
mahogany stain and spar varnish. <Sounds nice!> I am curing my
live rock at the same time. <Good way to do things.> When I had a
chance to think about it, I realized that doing both in my basement with
the skimmer running on the rock might be introducing fumes into the
rock. <Unless you have the can right next to the rock, I wouldn’t
worry. Do be sure to provide sufficient ventilation for yourself and
your rock will be fine.> Do you feel that I should stop doing this
work in the same basement? <No, but by all means do if you are
concerned about the fumes, for your own sake.> Any suggestions on
testing whether I have de-lived my rock? <Your rock will be fine,
enjoy, Scott V.>
Scared, please help! Tank trim gaps 2/2/08 Crew, <Hello Ben.>
Thanks in advance. I'll preface this by saying that I will call the
manufacturer on Monday. My new Visio 240gal. was put on it's stand
yesterday. If I crouch down and look from one end down the length of the
bottom plastic trim in front, the trim separates from the glass in 2
spots about 1/8". Is this normal? <It is not normal, nor is it
uncommon.> It does not appear that it has separated from any
silicone, there's just this gap. Where the front pane meets the bottom
pane inside, that silicone seems just fine. Are those 1.5" trims around
the top & bottom of tanks siliconed to the outside of the tank glass?
<Yes they are siliconed on. You are likely seeing this gapping due to
the glass deflecting a bit while the tank is full. You have nothing to
worry about here, this is purely an aesthetic issue.> Thanks, Ben
<Welcome, relax and enjoy your weekend, Scott V.>
Re: Scared, please help! Tank trim gaps 2/2/08 Scott, Thank
You for your quick reply. I probably was not clear, but the tank is
empty and I haven't filled it yet. Do they fill at the factory to test
and that could have made it bow the first time? I guess I'll clear the
kids from the room and fill with a hose to test. Thanks Again! <Even
gapping when empty there is no concern here. Your structure (sic, 's
strength. RMF) comes from the glass to glass bond. This is purely
cosmetic, nothing to worry about structurally. Welcome, Scott V.>
Help locating aquarium trim 5/9/07 Hello Sir, I am really
hoping you can point me in the direction where I can buy plastic
aquarium trim like this. I think the pictures explain themselves and
I really can not give you any background on the tank except it was
purchased at a reptile show in California 2-3 years ago. Thank
you for your time, jack <Mmm, am almost certain this is one of
Bob Mancuso ("Stay In Reptile") units... Use the Net to try and
locate him, the company. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Tank Repair Question - 4/21/07 Crew, <Hi Chris> I am
fixing to repair a tank, and have a question for you. What is the
easiest way to remove the plastic trim from the top and bottom of the
tank, so I can remove the broken glass and replace it. Is there a type
of solvent, or will this just "pop" off with enough force. I don't want
to break it. <I’d use a single edge razor or something similarly
slim and sharp (maybe even a flexible sharpened putty knife) to slip up
under the trim and free it from the silicon’s grip, then gently pry
off.> Thanks, Chris Harris <You're welcome and
good luck! -Lynn> Question about 110
gallon fish tank- please look , :) , Glass Aq. repair 7/7/06
Hi there I came across your site and reviewed the many questions that
were answered in the aquarium repair sections. I did not see what I was
looking for and was hoping to get expert advice. <Good... we
really need a comprehensive couple of articles with good pix here...
showing how to cut out old beads, hold panels together...> I
recently got a 110 gallon freshwater aquarium from a reputable neighbor.
They upgraded and I got the tank pretty cheap. They included a low metal
stand for it as well, but it is rusting on the top. I plan to clean up
and sand down as much rust as possible. <Good... and coat the
metal with a rust-inhibiting paint... Do take care re support in turn
under this stand...> The fish tank is very heavy and it was myself
and my boyfriend who brought it into the apartment, its very heavy!
<I know> There was a point when bringing it in that it was vertical
on its nose and was "dropped" on its side in the grass, it was slowed
down to not shatter as it fell over but it did fall to the side.
This did not create any cracks or chips that I could see. Would this
have loosened anything? Structure wise? <Not likely, no> Most
everything looks pretty tight, no loose silicone. The only damage I see
is the secondary wooden trim and the primary hard plastic/metal? trim
has come undone at the base on one corner. <Can either just
"push" this in place while filling, or use Silastic to re-fit it
permanently. Is more ornamental than functional, but you want the tank
to "sit" evenly on its edges on the stand> There's also a
"chip"/shard about 1/2 inch on the outside of the tank near the edge of
the seam. The tank appears to have double panes of glass on the
sides, but its hard to tell, <Mmm... unusual. Some commercial glass
tank manufacturers over the years did make aquariums with doubled
bottoms. Never doubled sides as far as I'm aware> it looks very
thick compared to my 20 gallon. <Is> The chip doesn't worry me,
its the bottom where the trim has come loose along with the silicone
holding it onto the glass. Is this seen as a real problem? <Not
likely, no> I don't want 110 gallons of water damage in my
apartment. Also, is it a bad thing to store the tank on its side
vertically up? <Should be of no consequence. Not a problem> The
sides seem very strong and durable for storing it this way but I wasn't
sure if it compromised the structure or not. It has a black hard plastic
or metal panes around the top and bottom glued on and additional
wood paneling that's very thick on top of that, it seems sound.
Thanks for any advice you can provide me, hopefully it will be good news
so my fishies can move up in their world. Kristin <The chip is more
concern to me... I would try filling outdoors on the stand... once the
latter is spiffed up. Bob Fenner> Re: Question about 110 gallon
fish tank- please look , :) 7/7/06 Thank you for your quick
reply! That's a good idea to show pictures of the process of
restructuring a tank- most helpful to those who are visually inclined. I
in turn will get you a photo of the chip on my tank- it almost seems
like its a inverted bubble more than a chip, its so smooth. Hopefully I
can get my camera back within the week. Thank you again! Kristin
<Thank you for the follow up... will post your pic with our corr. when
you send it along. Bob Fenner> Tank perimeter trim and back
wall over flow vents 8/30/06 Hey crew! <Jean-T>
I made a sump out of an old 55 gal tank. I added silicone over the
existing silicone <Not a good practice... doesn't adhere well.
Should be cut out, replaced...> just to be safe. (I know this is
somewhat useless since its the film between the glass that does the
job.. <Oh! Yes> but I feel better still) I noticed that the
plastic perimeter trim on the top and bottom of the tank was cracked in
all corners. <Mmm, this is more for assembly, looks than
structural...> I am having a hard time finding replacements at local
pet shops and have no credit cards to order them via internet.
<Make a deal with someone who does... send them a check in advance...>
Do I really need this trim ? <Mmm, very likely not> I have 4
baffles in the sump so this may compensate as reinforcement?? <To
some extent yes... I wouldn't worry re... you probably won't have this
filled very high...> Also I have 4 drains across the top of my
back wall (1 inch bulk head) and my pump will be pushing 1200 gph.
Do I need to pipe vents into the overflows so they can draw air?
<Mmm, likely a very good idea to have "tees" at the down junctions...
may well have to aspirate these to cut the "gurgling" noise... See
WWM...> I once herd that if no vent is present it can greatly
lessen flow? is his true? <Mmm, in some cases these small diameter
lines can/do operate as siphons... but this is not a good idea all the
way around... if the size, number of drains is insufficient and one or
more should become occluded...> Do you think my drains will handle
1200 gph? <No... all this is gone over and over...> my return to
the tank is via 4 3/4 inch returns ? does this sound right for 1200
gph in a 90 gal tank? <Depends on the pumping mechanism, but no...
not real 1,200 gallons per hour> tanks so ever very much for your
precious time! thanks!!!!!!!!!! Tristan!!! <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm Scroll down to the
areas on plumbing, overflows, bulkheads, noise... and read... Better to
re-drill, fit large-enough through-puts now. Bob Fenner>
Q?...55 gal. molding 12/10/06 Hey guys great site.
<Thank you for your kind words. Mich with you tonight.> I just
bought an old 55 gallon tank, and the top molding that connects the
center of the tank in the middle/top is broken off. I filled it up
outside and it seems to bow out around less than 1/4 inch so is this ok?
<Mmmm, No.> This kind of thing relates to my job a little and I
believe the tank is in little danger of (exploding outward at the
middle?!!?)BUT I am a newbie aquarist of 6 months. <But with good
sensibilities!> Someone told me they had a tank like this and they
box knifed the silicone and removed the top molding (empty of course)
and replaced it with a new part sealed it and it was good. Is this
likely and/or recommended? (no/yes 55 gal) <Highly
recommended. It's quite easy to do. The replacement molding is
cheap. You will enhance the structural integrity of the tank. Really,
there's no down side.> I'm very dexterous so I could do this no
problem but is the right thing to do? <Absolutely!> I only saw
one other inquiry like this but it only pertained to damaged exterior
edge of the molding whereas mine is missing the middle divider.
<Just do it! Just do it! Just do it!> Thanks so much thank you for
your time. <You are quite welcome. -Mich> Larry b.
100 gallon saltwater aquarium A friend of mine has recently given
me a 100 gallon tank. The only problem with the tank is the plastic
trim at the top and bottom of the tank has been busted. He was using the
tank for a snake. Do I need to replace the molding? <Yes, while the
top molding is probably more cosmetic than anything, it does provide
some extra support, especially on longer tanks needing extra support in
the center. However, the molding on the bottom is what the whole tank
is resting on. If it is broken, the tank may or may not be level, or
could settle later is it breaks further. With the tank full of water
you will most likely end up with leaks.> If so, any suggestions where
I could get the materials... <I’ve never personally had to track down
parts, but if you can identify the manufacturer, that would be the best
place to start. Most of them have web sites now and should be easy to
locate. Is there a tag on the bottom or any markings on the glass with
the manufacturer’s name? Would your friend recall the brand
otherwise? I hope that helps some. Best of luck to you! Scott V.>
100 gallon saltwater aquarium A friend of mine has recently
given me a 100 gallon tank. The only problem with the tank is the
plastic trim at the top and bottom of the tank has been busted…He was
using the tank for a snake……Do I need to replace the molding. If so any
suggestions where I could get the materials….. <The plastic frames on
all-glass aquariums have little to do with structural integrity/function
other than supporting the individual panels during assembly, having a
place for the top to be secured. The bottom piece though, must be
entire... to provide a level cushion for the glass that "floats" inside
it. If concerned, interested you can contact the maker of the tank and
likely buy, silicone a replacement top on. Ask your friend re the
manufacturer's name (there are only a few in the trade). Bob Fenner>
Finding Aquarium trim 4/30/04 Crew, I am having a very very hard
time trying to local aquarium trim for the top and bottom for my tank I
am building. The size of the tank isn't standard (74L x 18W x 44H), so I
need to buy stock lengths of it and cut it down myself. I am looking for
the something like Oceanic's trim. But they will not sell any. So... I
am looking to you to see if you know of such a place that would sell it.
Thanks for your help. Peter <the trim is indeed available, but not
always listed for how uncommon they are in sales. Do ask some of the big
mail order companies perhaps... I recall seeing them recently at
ThatFishPlace.com Best of luck, Anthony> Repair question
Hi, My name is Michelle and I tried to find my answer on your web site,
came close but not close enough, I have a 135 glass aquarium, I am
trying to save it, the plastic molding on the top I repaired with
aquarium sealant and some old plastic edging from some glass tops, it is
pretty sturdy. The problem is the bottom plastic is trash, bottom is the
plastic molding for looks or for support, (remember this is a 135 gallon
aquarium, I have tried to find any info on the net and I come up with
nothing, is there something I can make [without going to extremes of
melting and molding one myself). <You could fashion strips of
plastic or wood...> Is there a reason you cannot find these parts?
<Not enough demand... however, if you can find out the make (All-Glass,
Odell, Oceanic...) of the tank, you might contact the manufacturer and
purchase replacement framing from them> They make and sell the
aquarium sealant to redo your tank but not the molding? Maybe not
enough of a demand or is it that they want you to buy a new one? Why
sell the sealant then? Can anyone help? Thank you for your time,
Michelle W. <Michelle, have folks in the trade help you discern who
made the tank... or settle on DIYing something for the frame. These
moldings are largely ornamental... for looks. Though the frames do lend
minimal support in the process of assembly... Bob Fenner>
Cushioning Glass 12 Aug 2004 Hi <Hi Mike, MacL here.>
What do you recommend for cushioning glass from being in
contact with the frame, whether it is made of wood or metal. If
silicone is used by the time the frame is covered the silicone already
skimming over. <Gosh silicone is all I have ever heard being used to
cushion glass.> Thanks Mike
Aquarium trim - replacements 10/05/04 Hello, I am having a
very hard time finding the plastic frame that goes around the top and
bottom of the tank. I have looked and made phone calls but have had no
luck finding any where to get them. I would greatly appreciate it if you
could help me out. Thank you Janel <Janel... most any local pet
store can order these for you. I do encourage you to support your LFS.
If for some reason this doe snot work out, many mail order companies
like That Fish Place sell these items (if not visible on the website, do
call them... I am certain they have them).
http://www.thatpetplace.com/ best of luck, Anthony>
Plastic molded tank trim?... Bob, I am setting up an old
30 Gal. tank that use to belong to my father like 30 years age. It
looks Identical to the newer tanks with the plastic molded tank trim
on the top. Before even considering using it I filled it up and left
it for a few weeks and it seemed to be tight, but I did notice that
the corners of the molded plastic tank trim on one side were
cracked. It appeared to be cracked a long time ago and I was worried
that maybe if they broke the tank would fall apart. <Might>
Then I found this article on your site and it said the trim â€little
or no structural support€. So is this something I don€™t need to
worry about? <Actually, yes... if the trim doesn't offer
continuous support on the bottom... If the bottom is not
"free-floating" (i.e. it rests on just a narrow, flat edge of the
plastic bottom), you may be able to just go with it as is, or patch
the cracked piece/s with silicone sealant...> And if that does
not provide the support to the tank what does? <The silicone
between the glass panels, at the edges where they are joined. In
most cases, the plastic "framing" provides a simple frame to
assemble the tank and "looks" only> Also I was going to use an
Eclipse 3 System for my filtration. Is that good enough for a 30 Gal
tank? <A very nice unit. Fine for most freshwater and with a
skimmer added, marine set-ups. Bob Fenner> Thanks Eric
(Your Article) Tank Trim Sorry I was not clear. What I am
looking for is the plastic that covers the top edge of the tank.
this provides the lip for the glass top, which I have. Dwight
Triplett <ahhhh...yes. This is the molded tank trim. If your tank
was commercially made (Perfecto, O'Dell, etc) look up some of the
mail order companies on the net... many sell this tank trim. I know
that Perfecto makes a lot of them... but they are expensive and
offer little or no structural support. Many aquarists have nicely
stained/painted crown molding mitered and polyurethane and silicone
sealed in its stead rather than spend $30 for replacement trim on a
tank that is only worth $65. Try some of the big dealers advertised
on this site or That Fish Place if you are near Pennsylvania. Best
regards, Anthony>
|
Re: Plastic molded tank trim?... cracks in the top tank trim
corner. Now that I look at it harder I think they are from when
someone pried it off to reseal the tank. <Ahh, not an uncommon
occurrence. Should be no problems... Do read here re stands:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Thanks again, Eric |
Tank Trim Sorry
I was not clear. What I am looking for is the plastic that covers the
top edge of the tank. this provides the lip for the glass top, which I
have. Dwight Triplett <ahhhh...yes. This is the molded tank trim. If
your tank was commercially made (Perfecto, O'Dell, etc) look up some of
the mail order companies on the net... many sell this tank trim. I know
that Perfecto makes a lot of them... but they are expensive and offer
little or no structural support. Many aquarists have nicely
stained/painted crown molding mitered and polyurethane and silicone
sealed in its stead rather than spend $30 for replacement trim on a tank
that is only worth $65. Try some of the big dealers advertised on this
site or That Fish Place if you are near Pennsylvania. Best regards,
Anthony>
|
|