Cracked Frame 10/15/09
<Hello Doug>
I have one long continuous crack in the bottom black plastic frame of my 210 gallon tank along the entire bottom of one side of the tank.
<From what I can tell you are talking about the black plastic frame on an all glass style tank?>
The crack has also wrapped around the front corner and spread about 8 inches in on the front section. I filled the crack on the front section with silicone and this seems to have stopped the crack from spreading. I
also covered the cracked side section with JB Weld hoping this would help stop future cracking. I would describe the cracking as hairline since the cracks are not large, but what concerns me is that it is one continuous crack along the entire bottom of frame and due to how All Glass builds their tanks, the side section with the primary crack is a weight bearing side.
<Doug, generally these frames are considered visually pleasing, not so much functional, they are also helpful during the initial assembly of the tank. If it was the center brace on the top I would be more concerned. Please read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/glstkmoldng.htm?h=cracked+frame for
yourself.>
Please let me know if I am overreacting or if this something I truly need to worry about.
<Your likely in good shape, but it never hurts to call the manufacturer and have them send you a replacement for you to fit on when the tank is empty.
Good luck and don't hesitate to contact All Glass,
Josh Solomon.>

Repairing 55 gal tank, trim, brace...   10/5/09
Hey Guys!
<Hey DAngelo! JustinN here tonight!>
I recently received a used 55 gal tank that the previous owner had kept for years outside. After giving it a good cleaning I found the top trim very loose and cracked in half in a couple of places. The bottom trim is also a little loose.
<Ah yes, the baking of the sun. This former boat repair/body man knows it all too well.>
I decided to remove the old top trim and wanted to know if it could be glued with epoxy or super glue and then use silicone to reattach it to the tank?
<Does this trim include a brace for the tank? If so, I wouldn't bother... see below.>
After I removed the trim I thought about also removing all the old silicone inside and replacing it. The tank doesn't leak, but I thought it may be a good idea to do it due to the age of the tank.
<More so than the age, I'd be worried about the effects of the sun and time.>
After reading some old post here I found that you recommend keeping the top and bottom trim attached before resealing the sides and bottom seams. If this is so, should I fix the top and bottom first and let them cure before attempting to do the inside of the tank or can I do it all at once? Thanks for any help you can provide.
<Resealing a tank is a tricky feat to start with -- considering the deterioration of the frame (and potentially the bracing), I wouldn't trust the tank as far as I can throw it... and leverage for a 55 gallon isn't
real great in a wheelchair ;) Unfortunately, it really sounds like you've got a lot of work involved for a relatively common (and typically cheap) tank.. If you were to do a reseal job, I would likely reseal every seam first, and perhaps even look into buying/building an entirely new trim fascia for this tank. A less weathered tank might be more optimal. Good luck! -JustinN>

Fish Tank Problem (72 gallon All-Glass Bowfront)--------No Date on Purpose ;-P 05/26/09 I have a 72 gallon All-Glass Aquarium 72-gallon bowfront set-up that I purchased in 2002. Recently the plastic top near the front bow has started to split (see attached photo). <Unfortunately all too common with these tanks over time.> I was wondering what my options were to manage this (a) can I order a replacement top plastic piece (if so, any suggestions on how to install)?, (b)any way to repair this without removing the top piece and (b) do I have to replace the tank? <Well, there are a couple of avenues. You can fabricate an acrylic brace and bolt it in with nylon screws and nuts. Search some of the larger aquarium forums on removing the center brace and you will find much info on this. For my tank I would simply call up the manufacturer and procure a new top trim piece. They are not all that expensive. You will need to drain the tank down somewhat, enough to where the bowing at the top is  small enough to fit the new piece. Replacing is fairly straightforward, you will need to rip off/out the old trim. This can easily be done with your fingers alone, they will just ache when you are done! Then cut off what silicone you can with a razor, followed by siliconing in the new trim. Not all of the silicone needs to be completely off the glass as the plastic does not truly bond to it anyhow.> I've attached two photos: 1) - top view of the split in the top plastic piece 2) - left front seam (all other seams seem fine, however; when I run my fingers along the seam it does seem to widen a bit toward the bottom of the tank). <I do not see an issue with this from the photo, has it changed over time?  Many times there will be larger gaps in the seam on the top or bottom, no real issue for concern.> Any advice you can provide would be very valued. With warm regards, Mike Paul Minnetonka, MN <All above, Scott V., Fresno, CA> Re: Fish Tank Problem (72 gallon All-Glass Bowfront) 5/26/09 Scott, thank you so much for the well thought response. I will go with replacing the top piece! Many thanks, Mike <Sounds good. Best, Scott V.>

Re: Fish Tank Problem (72 gallon All-Glass Bowfront) 9/3/09 I just wanted to follow up and let you know that your advice was right on. <Ah, good to know when one feels like they are losing their mind.> I ordered the replacement top piece from Aqueon (All Glass Aquarium). * I used a common moving strap that I put around the tank (about 10 inches from the top) as a safety net as I removed the existing top piece (I used a Dremel and small hand saw to separate into four pieces). * After removal of the existing top piece and old silicone, I put down new silicone and fit the new piece in fairly easily. * I let the silicone set for 15 minutes and then removed the moving strap....everything went smoothly and the tank is in great order. <Great!> Definitely felt good about spending $50 for the top piece vs. the cost of a new tank and hassle of scrapping an old one! Again, thanks for the sage advice. <Thank you for the update.> Regards, Mike Paul <Scott V.>

Aquarium frame replacement help  8/12/09
I appreciate the information you provide and have found it most helpful. I have tried to find my answer all night and could not. I have a 150 gallon tank I purchased with stand for 50.00. I am resealing it. It has 3 cracks in the bottom frame, one in the middle and one on each side ~ 1 ft from the corner and the cracks are vertical and only on the front. With all I have read this is not a problem. The top frame however needed replaced for sure.
I removed the old one, cleaned all of the silicone off and then the new frame wouldn't go on. It seems to be just a little shy of fitting the glass.
<Mmm... you may need to contact the supplier, ask for one a skosh larger... otherwise, if you have some practical way of heating up the one have, you may find it will slip (with two friends pushing it toward the free end and a rubber mallet's help) over the top glass>
Front to back and side to side are both too short by about a 1/16th in. I am afraid to force it on. I thought about laying it in the sun for awhile and see if the heat helped but then thought what if it shrinks and breaks?
The tank frame is 72 x 18 in., the glass is 7/16ths in. thick and I see an anchor on what's left of a little sticker on the bottom. The original frame had one center brace the new frame has two and has a part
number 91120 on it.
<Mmm... is this an old Atlas tank?>
Any help would be appreciated. If this frame won't work can you point me to appropriate options?
Thanks, Brian.
<Well... FWIW, or rather for what the frame's are worth structurally, I'd just go with something home made that is ornamental around the edges, but of use in the middle, one brace or two, or devise a Euro-brace (see WWM, the Net re) and forget about straddling bracing... In other words, you are not "locked into" using a conventional to brace... these are more for looks, holding the panels in place while the Silastic sealant is setting up, curing. Bob Fenner>

Cracked Bottom Trim On A 90 Gallon Tank – 07/30/09
Hello experts!
<<Uh-oh, pressure/expectations [grin]…Hiya Heidi!>>
I asked this question prior and received an adequate answer
<<Only “adequate”… (just messing with you)>>
but I have a little more to the story now.
<<Ah…okay>>
I have a 90 gallon RR AGA tank set up fully stocked and doing well. I bought the tank used. The bottom black trim started to crack along the back after I filled it and has now extended extensively all around the base. Some pieces have even come off.
<<Not a concern>>
It hasn't bothered me (you guys reassured me it's only cosmetic)
<<Indeed…and a small amount of cushion/protection to the glass edges>>
but I am breaking down the tank because I am moving to Connecticut. I have a friend that wants the tank but I'm scared to give it to him because of the trim.
<<…?>>
I'm sure once it's empty the entire trim will come off. It definitely needs to come off and it can't be glued back on as it will be in pieces.
<<You could try contacting the tank manufacturer to see if you can obtain a new bottom trim piece>>
The trim around the top is fine. Can the tank sit on the stand without bottom trim?
<<Sure…and though not really necessary, lining the top of the stand with something like the thin fan-fold insulation material from a home center (Lowe’s/HD) may provide some peace of mind here>>
I would hate for him to have a disaster so I'm looking for a little guidance on what to suggest to him. I was going to just get rid of the tank and buy myself a new one once I got settled in CT. I appreciate any help you guys can give me! I want to do the right thing.
<<If the bottom trim is simply coming off due to brittleness of the plastic/loss of adhesion there shouldn’t be any concerns…but…final decision is up to you>>
Thank you,
Heidi
<<Happy to share… EricR>>

Re: Cracked Bottom Trim On A 90 Gallon Tank – 07/31/09
Thank you Eric!
<<Quite welcome Heidi>>
You guys always make me feel reassured!
<<Ah good>>
I did try to contact the manufacturer back when it first started cracking. And, to no surprise, there was no phone number and they did not reply to emails. Go figure!
Thanks again for being a great resource for us needy hobbyists! No pressure....=)
Heidi
<<Happy to help my friend… EricR>>

Crack in Trim 7/2/09 Hello- <Hello Douglas.> I recently bought a used 72 gallon Oceanic bowfront tank. While cleaning the tank, I noticed that the trim along the bottom is cracked at the right front corner. I have checked the tank all over, and everything else seems to be in good order (the braces, the glass, etc.) I was wondering if this crack is a concern; i.e. will this compromise the structural integrity of he tank, or is it purely aesthetic? <Nope, a purely aesthetic issue here, no worries.> Please find attached a picture of the crack. <Likely either from a drop at some point or the corner getting knocked/banged.> Thank you for your time and help!!! <Welcome.> Douglas Maki <Scott V.>

48" Bowfront all glass 5/14/09
Tank Repair
Hello,
<Hello Marianne?>
I have a 48" all glass bowfront tank which is leaking from the lower right hand corner, but in order to make repairs I need to replace the plastic trim surrounding the tank. I <Are> there any place on the Web where I might get those braces?
<I'd contact the manufacturer of the tank or an etailer that carries All Glass aquariums. A Google search should give you plenty of hits.>
Thank you
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Tank Repair, trim/frame  3/11/09
Hi I'm Dylan.
<Hello Dylan, James here today.>
I have a fifty five gallon tall fish tank that is missing the bottom trim/molding, is it needed?
<No, just cosmetic.>
If so where can I get it some, one told me I should just make one out of wood and dry wall screws?
<Too much work for me.>
You be the judge and how much do you think it would cost me for new trim?
<I don't know the pricing of trim, but I'm sure it isn't very expensive.
Better to contact your dealer.>
Thank you for your time!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Bottom molding on AGA cracking   2/12/09 Hi Everyone, <Heidi> I have read Bob's take on how molding on tanks are mainly cosmetic but for the bottom. <Mmm, yes... used more to "hold all the panels in place during Siliconing" than structural"> I bought a used 90 gallon AGA with the appropriate stand that is sold with it. I did not notice until after the tank was filled for a couple of days that there were 2-3 small cracks in the bottom molding right in the middle. What has me concerned is that the cracks are extending now and even a new one has formed in the right hand corner. The tank was leveled when we set it up. It rests squarely on the stand. I looked with a flashlight under the tank to see if the molding is cracked through the base and only found one spot (the one in the corner in fact) that I can feel the break but it's flush with no gaps. I even pulled a piece of the molding back to see if there was any water which there was not. I have tried to contact Aqueon. The phone number they have listed does not work so I sent an email but it states it could be 3-4 days for a response. Now I'm scared! So would you consider the base intact? Do I need to buy a new tank? <Mmm, no... not IMO> If you had a piece of plastic with a break in it but those 2 pieces butted up against each other will the tank still be floating? <I'd think so, yes> In my mind I'm thinking the plastic underneath can't go anywhere. But I sure don't want 90 gallons of saltwater on my floor! I've included some pictures and they are through Photobucket email link. I hope that works for this site. Also, the liquid you might see on the molding is from the oil substance I used to secure the background on the tank. Thanks, Heidi _http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff248/hazmat319/?action=view&current=IMG_1239.jpg_ (http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff248/hazmat319/?action=view&current=IMG_1239.jpg) _http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff248/hazmat319/?action=view&current=IMG_1240.jpg_ (http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff248/hazmat319/?action=view&current=IMG_1240.jpg) _http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff248/hazmat319/?action=view&current=IMG_1238.jpg_ (http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff248/hazmat319/?action=view&current=IMG_1238.jpg) <I do think this tank is fine as it is... but IF Aqueon/All Glass are willing to send you new plastic frame material... I'd be tempted to cut away the old and replace it. Bob Fenner>

Re: Bottom molding on AGA cracking   2/13/09 Thanks Bob! Anxiety attack over now! BTW, your book has basically been my bible this past year. I started my first reef tank exactly one year ago! Thanks for a great resource. Heidi <Thank you for sharing Heidi. Bob Fenner>

Missing Tank Frame 2/7/09
Hello WWM crew.
<Hello Johnny.>
I am a freshwater hobbyist and found your site by searching the web for "fish tank repairs" That’s right I have a broken tank. I did find the subject in your site but continued to have an error when on your site. I don’t know why, I figure my pc don’t like fish.
<I am a Mac guy anyway!>
Any how this is my situation. A friend of mine has given me a 100 gallon long tank that he said was leaking and today I picked it up. WOW its heavy and it is a mess! Now cleaning the glass is no problem and resealing the tank is something I’ve done before. However the frame or most of it is missing. This is the only thing that will keep me from having this tank restored to its intended capacity.
<OK, not life or death.>
I have the ability to have a stainless steel frame made and welded at cost but I don’t know if this is the best way to go with reframing this tank.
<No, not really. If the tank needs a functional cross brace that may have been built into the frame there are better ways to repair IMO.>
I was hoping to converse with some one on this matter. The tank has a recessed bottom and if it is necessary for you to see it I can take photos and send them to you.
<Well, the trim can be functional it some cases. For many it is just aesthetic. So, my first question to you is do you know if the frame has or had any kind of cross brace built in? If not you need not worry about the integrity of the tank. If so do search the web and WWM re crossbracing or eurobracing. Either way you can contact the tank’s manufacturer (if you know who made it) regarding replacement frames. If the glass thickness and tank dimensions are one of the more common sizes you may be able to get a frame that will fit from about any tank manufacturer.>
I have had fish over 25 years and this is my first tank over 50 gallons. And I’m as excited about this tank as I was about my first tank. The child will never die and as they say BIGGER IS BETTER.
<Heee, know that feeling!>
I’m looking forward to your reply
JOHNNY
<Hope this helps out, Scott V.>

Re: Thanks... Missing Tank Frame 2/8/09
Thanks for your prompt reply on the missing frame.
<My pleasure.>
Cross bracing, interesting. Never thought of that! It would be so much easier to add that rather than the whole frame.
<Yes.>
And as far as looks I plan on making my own hood for this one.
<Good.>
I am going to do some more investigation on this as you suggested. And will be reading more from WWM on the cross bracing and other things. I see a lot of interesting topics in this site (one of the best I've found).
<Thank you, I think so too.>
I will be sending all my fish buddies to it too.
Again I would like to thank you for your prompt reply. And I have added you to my mail addresses for future use.
JOHNNY
<LOL, thanks and welcome, Scott V.>

Cross Brace Repair how to fix my tank that has bowed out at the top 1/13/09 My 150 gal tank has bowed out at the top and has caused the cross support piece of glass to fall in the tank. I need to know how to fix this. The top frame has been cut to allow for the piece of glass on top to be siliconed in place. Did this allow the tank to bow out at the top? <Sure did.> Also on the one of the sides the frame is cracked. The dimensions of my tank are as follows: 24"W x 31"T x 48"L. Do they make a clear frame for the top to clean up the look? <I never saw one, but I'm sure your local LFS can get you some replacement trim.> Can I make something myself to keep the cost down? I have attached pictures. Please help! <Sure, read FAQ's here on subject and see what the crew has recommended to others. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/glstkbraces.htm> Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Lee Bowles

Vertical cracks in tank trim  1/3/09 Okay, I'm sure that this question has been asked a hundred times, but I just can't seem to find an answer that is really applicable to my situation. So, sorry if you've already answered this!! <Don't think we have... as yet!> I recently bought a 75 gallon aquarium with lots of accessories for just $60. <Way under a dollar per pound!> The only thing lacking was the stand. I finally got one at the local LFS after convincing hubby that $210 wasn't that much to spend on it and would be much, much better than getting a cheap used dresser. In my excitement, I quickly set up the tank and filled it (I had tested it partly when I first got it but didn't fill it all the way up then) to about 2" from the top. I left it overnight and for the next day, and there was no sign of leakage or anything. Due to all the silt from the play sand (gave up and got gravel instead), I drained it and refilled it. I switched over the filters, decor, etc from a smaller tank that was housing the fish that were to go into the 75g. I also used some media from another tank. That all went well, and this is day 4 with water and everything. I have not had any trouble with leaking or anything. My concern is that the trim is cracked vertically at 3 and possibly all 4 of the bottom corners. There may be more cracks that I have not seen yet. Hubby thinks they are hideous, but I don't even notice them because I'm looking at the fish. But I am worried that they may cause the tank to fail. <Me too...> I really don't want to lose my fish and ruin my house! There is even a bit of a gap between the trim and the glass on one corner. I'm not sure what brand the tank is, but there is a symbol like a slightly tipped anchor on the bottom of the tank. The symbol looks a sort of like the Perfecto symbol on one of my lights. <May well be> I, unfortunately, have not taken any pictures of these cracks. <Really need to see these> The bottom and top middle braces seem to be intact. Also, the silicone seems just fine. I do not see any chips or cracks or even scratches in the glass. I know I was hasty in filling this tank, but I was just so excited about finally getting the stand. Also, I had posted on aquarium forums regarding this question in the past (among others), but no one addressed the cracked trim. Everyone focused on the other questions. I am finding conflicting information regarding whether or not I need to worry about it. I really, really do not want to attempt trying to replace the trim. I don't have the time or patience to try this nor do I have that DIY ability. I'd rather just buy a new tank if need be. Especially since I do not know the brand of the tank and hence would not know who to contact about it. Thanks for any help!!! Bekah Loofboro <Where are the cracks? In the "front" as in the vertical pieces? Do they run only horizontally? Did you place anything under the glass, or the entire frame underneath? IF the cracking is "only superficial"... i.e. it's not splitting outward, allowing uneven pressure, you're likely fine... but I might put a piece of foam under the tank, twixt the stand and it, to even out the weight... Please do take, send images... Bob Fenner>

Re: Vertical cracks in tank trim Thanks for the quick reply! I was able to take a few pictures of the cracks in the trim. <Nice ones!> I couldn't really get the ones in the back of the tank. All four corners on the top and the bottom trim have cracks running vertically (some slightly horizontal, but overall vertical). So, I guess that's 8 corner cracks, really. I also took a look at the bottom brace in the middle, and that also has a crack in it, though that runs from the back of the tank to about the middle of the tank (parallel to the ends of the tank, perpendicular to the front and back of the tank). I was not able to get a picture of that. Attached are pictures of the front bottom corners and one of the top front corners. So, could I get by without replacing the frame(s)? If the bottom brace wasn't cracked, would it be safe? The stand is a Perfecto, so it is designed to take the weight at the corners (that's what the salesman said). <Correct> The middle is open, and we did not put anything under it. <Agree> The glass sits on top of the frame, rather than flush with the frame, if that makes sense. Bekah Loofboro <These are strange cracks... unusual in that all are about the same... I do think they are due to shrinking of the material of the frames themselves... The best way I can express myself re the use of this tank is: "If it were mine, and knowing what I do re Perfecto and their fine history of glass aquarium manufacture, I would continue to use this tank as is." It is my opinion that this tank is unlikely to fail as a consequence of these frame cracks. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Broken trim, Center support 10/31/08
I have a 75 gallon aquarium that I purchased from PETSMART in 1994. The center brace snapped at the back trim and took some of the moulding with it. I am at a loss. Do you have any suggestions?
<Measure the footprint (width and length) of the tank. Just about any tank manufacturer with the same footprint tank will be able to supply you with new trim, just be sure it has the center brace too (most will at this size). Scott V.>

Aquarium repair made easier, glass, frame removal  10/20/08
Good Morning Crew from Florida!!
<Hello Tom.>
I hope all is well with all Crew and readers.
<Me too!>
I thought that I would pass on some information that I learned trying to repair a 150G AGA tank. In taking down the tank in preparation for a massive remodel project, I broke one of the braces. Lucky for us, we have a 125G long “back up” tank to house our fishy family.
<Quite a backup!>
Five weeks later the house is done and I have my garage back, so I started working on replacing the frame. I found that I wasn’t getting anywhere trying to cut the silicone loose to pry the frame off. Let me add that I have arthritis in the thumbs on both hands and don’t have the grip strength that I once had.
<These frames can be tough to remove.>
After some thinking, I came up with a better way to remove the frame. All it takes is a Dremel, a large number of cutting wheels and a steady hand. Through trial and error, I found that if I cut the frame along the top edge, the ‘high’ part of the frame, not the recessed part that the glass lids sit in, I was able to separate the frame into 2 pieces (the top and the side) making it easier to remove. Naturally, I cut the silicone first. Even though I took my time and was careful not to touch the glass with the cutting wheels, the times I did resulted in no damage to the glass and more often then not, a broken cutting wheel. Anyone trying this will find that the wheel also melts the plastic, so multiple passes are required to get down to the glass. After spending about an hour just using the knife to cut the silicone and not making any headway, I removed one long side and the 2 short sides in about 15 minutes when I ran out of cutting wheels. Today it is off to Home Depot for more cutting wheels and the Toluene for cleaning the silicone that I couldn’t scrape off (this I got from reading the archives, it does pay to read!!!). I hope this makes a somewhat painful process (at least with my arthritis) easier to get done. Once again, I want to thank the Crew for their collective efforts. When you share your skills/knowledge to help others, blessings come back tenfold to you. Thanks again!
<Thank you for sharing, Scott V.>
Thomas N. (Tom)

idea for refinishing decorative area on hexagon tank... Repair, frame  – 09/07/08
Hello. Firstly, I want to thank you for operating this wonderful, and informative website. I have learned much by reading through the countless questions and answers here.
<Ahh! It is for you, your benefit>
My question today deals with a 29 gallon hexagon tank that my girlfriend came by. It is made by O'Dell,
<A worthy manufacturer of the seventies, eighties... of glass systems>
and it is the type on which the top and bottom have a border of some type of glossy black film.
<Mmm, plastic>
I am sure that it looked really good in its day, but now the film is damaged and peeling off, so I would like to rework this nice, if not the most desirable shaped, tank.
<This "surround" is useful... to prevent chipping, directly damaging the glass>
I was thinking of peeling off this glossy black film, <Best to place something here for the above reason and looks... though not structurally important>
and painting the underlying wood/particle board with glossy black Rustoleum.
<A good idea>
The water in the tank does not come in contact with this outside area; it is strictly decorative. I looked into getting perhaps a glossy black contact paper, but all I found was stuff that was selling for $65 per 49 foot roll, and I definitely do not need that much.
What do you think of my idea of using Rustoleum in this instance?
<Also a good product (line) and application>
Thanks for your suggestions.
Best regards,
Jeff
<And you, Bob Fenner>

Broken 55g top frame w/ support 8/16/08
Hi, Love your site... very informative!
<Great, thank you!>
I found a link in a post on where to purchase the top frame with support for a 55g tank. The link would not work for me. Any other suggestions?
<Most all manufacturers will sell these frames, it would be best to contact your particular manufacturer directly. Most 55 gallon tanks are made to the same specs, if you have no luck with your particular manufacturer do check the dimensions vs. those posted at Aqueonproducts.com (used to be AGA), they have been particularly helpful/customer service oriented.>
Warmest Regards!
<Have a good one, Scott V.>

Staining and varnishing tank trim, and live rock pollution? 2/22/08
Hi.
<Hello there.>
I am refinishing an old wood trimmed tank with mahogany stain and spar varnish.
<Sounds nice!>
I am curing my live rock at the same time.
<Good way to do things.>
When I had a chance to think about it, I realized that doing both in my basement with the skimmer running on the rock might be introducing fumes into the rock.
<Unless you have the can right next to the rock, I wouldn’t worry. Do be sure to provide sufficient ventilation for yourself and your rock will be fine.>
Do you feel that I should stop doing this work in the same basement?
<No, but by all means do if you are concerned about the fumes, for your own sake.>
Any suggestions on testing whether I have de-lived my rock?
<Your rock will be fine, enjoy, Scott V.>

Scared, please help! Tank trim gaps 2/2/08
Crew,
<Hello Ben.>
Thanks in advance. I'll preface this by saying that I will call the manufacturer on Monday. My new Visio 240gal. was put on it's stand yesterday. If I crouch down and look from one end down the length of the bottom plastic trim in front, the trim separates from the glass in 2 spots about 1/8". Is this normal?
<It is not normal, nor is it uncommon.>
It does not appear that it has separated from any silicone, there's just this gap. Where the front pane meets the bottom pane inside, that silicone seems just fine. Are those 1.5" trims around the top & bottom of tanks siliconed to the outside of the tank glass?
<Yes they are siliconed on. You are likely seeing this gapping due to the glass deflecting a bit while the tank is full. You have nothing to worry about here, this is purely an aesthetic issue.>
Thanks,
Ben
<Welcome, relax and enjoy your weekend, Scott V.>

Re: Scared, please help! Tank trim gaps 2/2/08
Scott,
Thank You for your quick reply. I probably was not clear, but the tank is empty and I haven't filled it yet. Do they fill at the factory to test and that could have made it bow the first time? I guess I'll clear the kids from the room and fill with a hose to test. Thanks Again!
<Even gapping when empty there is no concern here. Your structure (sic, 's strength. RMF) comes from the glass to glass bond. This is purely cosmetic, nothing to worry about structurally. Welcome, Scott V.>

Tank Repair Question - 4/21/07
Crew,
<Hi Chris>
I am fixing to repair a tank, and have a question for you.  What is the easiest way to remove the plastic trim from the top and bottom of the tank, so I can remove the broken glass and replace it.  Is there a type of solvent, or will this just "pop" off with enough force.  I don't want to break it.
<I’d use a single edge razor or something similarly slim and sharp (maybe even a flexible sharpened putty knife) to slip up under the trim and free it from the silicon’s grip, then gently pry off.>  
Thanks,
Chris Harris
<You're welcome and good luck! -Lynn>

Question about 110 gallon fish tank- please look , :) , Glass Aq. repair   7/7/06
Hi there I came across your site and reviewed the many questions that were answered in the aquarium repair sections. I did not see what I was looking
for and was hoping to get expert advice.
<Good... we really need a comprehensive couple of articles with good pix here... showing how to cut out old beads, hold panels together...>
I recently got a 110 gallon freshwater aquarium from a reputable neighbor.
They upgraded and I got the tank pretty cheap. They included a low metal stand for it as well, but it is rusting on the top. I plan to clean up and
sand down as much rust as possible.
<Good... and coat the metal with a rust-inhibiting paint... Do take care re support in turn under this stand...>
The fish tank is very heavy and it was myself and my boyfriend who brought it into the apartment, its very heavy!
<I know>
There was a point when bringing it in that it was vertical on its nose and was "dropped" on its side in the grass, it was slowed down to not shatter as
it fell over but it did fall to the side. This did not create any cracks or chips that I could see. Would this have loosened anything? Structure wise?
<Not likely, no>
Most everything looks pretty tight, no loose silicone. The only damage I see is the secondary wooden trim and the primary hard plastic/metal? trim has
come undone at the base on one corner.
<Can either just "push" this in place while filling, or use Silastic to re-fit it permanently. Is more ornamental than functional, but you want the tank to "sit" evenly on its edges on the stand>
There's also a "chip"/shard about 1/2 inch on the outside of the tank near the edge of the seam. The tank appears to have double panes of glass on the
sides, but its hard to tell,
<Mmm... unusual. Some commercial glass tank manufacturers over the years did make aquariums with doubled bottoms. Never doubled sides as far as I'm aware>
it looks very thick compared to my 20 gallon.
<Is>
The chip doesn't worry me, its the bottom where the trim has come loose along with the silicone holding it onto the glass. Is this seen as a real problem?
<Not likely, no>
I don't want 110 gallons of water damage in my apartment. Also, is it a bad thing to store the tank on its side vertically up?
<Should be of no consequence. Not a problem>
The sides seem very strong and durable for storing it this way but I wasn't sure if it compromised the structure or not. It has a black hard plastic or metal panes
around the top and bottom glued on and additional wood paneling that's very thick on top of that, it seems sound.
Thanks for any advice you can provide me, hopefully it will be good news so my fishies can move up in their world. Kristin
<The chip is more concern to me... I would try filling outdoors on the stand... once the latter is spiffed up. Bob Fenner>

Re: Question about 110 gallon fish tank- please look , :)   7/7/06
Thank you for your quick reply!
That's a good idea to show pictures of the process of restructuring a tank- most helpful to those who are visually inclined. I in turn will get you a
photo of the chip on my tank- it almost seems like its a inverted bubble more than a chip, its so smooth. Hopefully I can get my camera back within
the week. Thank you again! Kristin
<Thank you for the follow up... will post your pic with our corr. when you send it along. Bob Fenner>

Tank perimeter trim and back wall over flow vents   8/30/06
Hey crew!
<Jean-T>
I made a sump out of an old 55 gal tank. I added silicone over the existing silicone
<Not a good practice... doesn't adhere well. Should be cut out, replaced...>
just to be safe. (I know this is somewhat useless since its the film between the glass that does the job..
<Oh! Yes>
but I feel better still)
I noticed that the plastic perimeter trim on the top and bottom of the tank was cracked in all corners.
<Mmm, this is more for assembly, looks than structural...>
I am having a hard time finding replacements at local pet shops and have no  credit cards to order them via internet.
<Make a deal with someone who does... send them a check in advance...>
Do I really need this trim ?
<Mmm, very likely not>
I have 4 baffles in the sump so this may compensate as reinforcement??
<To some extent yes... I wouldn't worry re... you probably won't have this filled very high...>
   Also I have 4 drains across the top of my back wall (1 inch bulk head)  and my pump will be pushing 1200 gph.
Do I need to pipe  vents into the overflows so they can draw air?
<Mmm, likely a very good idea to have "tees" at the down junctions... may well have to aspirate these to cut the "gurgling" noise... See WWM...>
  I once herd that if no vent is present it can greatly lessen flow? is his true?
<Mmm, in some cases these small diameter lines can/do operate as siphons... but this is not a good idea all the way around... if the size, number of drains is insufficient and one or more should become occluded...>
Do you think my drains will handle 1200 gph?
<No... all this is gone over and over...>
my return to the tank is via  4   3/4 inch  returns ? does this sound right for 1200 gph in a 90 gal tank?
<Depends on the pumping mechanism, but no... not real 1,200 gallons per hour>
tanks so ever very much for your precious time! thanks!!!!!!!!!!
  Tristan!!!
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Scroll down to the areas on plumbing, overflows, bulkheads, noise... and read... Better to re-drill, fit large-enough through-puts now. Bob Fenner>

Q?...55 gal. molding   12/10/06
Hey guys great site.
<Thank you for your kind words.  Mich with you tonight.>
I just bought an old 55 gallon tank, and the top molding that connects the center of the tank in the middle/top is broken off.
I filled it up outside and it seems to bow out around less than 1/4 inch so is this ok?
<Mmmm, No.>
This kind of thing relates to my job a little and I believe the tank is in little danger of (exploding outward at the middle?!!?)BUT I am a newbie aquarist of 6 months.
<But with good sensibilities!>
Someone told me they had a tank like this and they box knifed the silicone and removed the top molding (empty of course) and replaced it with a new part sealed it and it was good. Is this likely and/or recommended? (no/yes 55 gal)
<Highly recommended.  It's quite easy to do.  The replacement molding is cheap.  You will enhance the structural integrity of the tank.  Really, there's no down side.>
I'm very dexterous so I could do this no problem but is the right thing to do?
<Absolutely!>
I only saw one other inquiry like this but it only pertained to damaged exterior edge of the molding whereas mine is missing the middle divider.
<Just do it!  Just do it! Just do it!>
Thanks so much thank you for your time.
<You are quite welcome. -Mich>
Larry b.

100 gallon saltwater aquarium
A friend of mine has recently given me a 100 gallon tank.  The only problem with the tank is the plastic trim at the top and bottom of the tank has been busted. He was using the tank for a snake. Do I need to replace the molding?
<Yes, while the top molding is probably more cosmetic than anything, it does provide some extra support, especially on longer tanks needing extra support in the center.  However, the molding on the bottom is what the whole tank is resting on.  If it is broken, the tank may or may not be level, or could settle later is it breaks further.  With the tank full of water you will most likely end up with leaks.>
If so, any suggestions where I could get the materials...
<I’ve never personally had to track down parts, but if you can identify the manufacturer, that would be the best place to start.  Most of them have web sites now and should be easy to locate.  Is there a tag on the bottom or any markings on the glass with the manufacturer’s name?  Would your friend recall the brand otherwise?  I hope that helps some.  Best of luck to you!  Scott V.>

100 gallon saltwater aquarium
A friend of mine has recently given me a 100 gallon tank.  The only problem with the tank is the plastic trim at the top and bottom of the tank has been busted…He was using the tank for a snake……Do I need to replace the molding. If so any suggestions where I could get the materials…..
<The plastic frames on all-glass aquariums have little to do with structural integrity/function other than supporting the individual panels during assembly, having a place for the top to be secured. The bottom piece though, must be entire... to provide a level cushion for the glass that "floats" inside it. If concerned, interested you can contact the maker of the tank and likely buy, silicone a replacement top on. Ask your friend re the manufacturer's name (there are only a few in the trade). Bob Fenner>

Finding Aquarium trim 4/30/04 
Crew, I am having a very very hard time trying to local aquarium trim for the top and bottom for my tank I am building. The size of the tank isn't standard (74L x 18W x 44H), so I need to buy stock lengths of it and cut it down myself. I am looking for the something like Oceanic's trim. But they will not sell any. So... I am looking to you to see if you know of such a place that would sell it. Thanks for your help. Peter 
<the trim is indeed available, but not always listed for how uncommon they are in sales. Do ask some of the big mail order companies perhaps... I recall seeing them recently at ThatFishPlace.com Best of luck, Anthony>

Repair question
Hi, My name is Michelle and I tried to find my answer on your web site, came close but not close enough, I have a 135 glass aquarium, I am trying to save it, the plastic molding on the top I repaired with aquarium sealant and some old plastic edging from some glass tops, it is pretty sturdy. The problem is the bottom plastic is trash, bottom is the plastic molding for looks or for support, (remember this is a 135 gallon aquarium, I have tried to find any info on the net and I come up with nothing, is there something I can make [without going to extremes of melting and molding one myself).
<You could fashion strips of plastic or wood...>
Is there a reason you cannot find these parts?
<Not enough demand... however, if you can find out the make (All-Glass, Odell, Oceanic...) of the tank, you might contact the manufacturer and purchase replacement framing from them>
They make and sell the aquarium sealant to redo your tank but not the molding?  Maybe not enough of a demand or is it that they want you to buy a new one?  Why sell the sealant then?
Can anyone help?
Thank you for your time, Michelle W.
<Michelle, have folks in the trade help you discern who made the tank... or settle on DIYing something for the frame. These moldings are largely ornamental... for looks. Though the frames do lend minimal support in the process of assembly... Bob Fenner>