Old Glass, Slate Tank repair, speculations re fish physiology re env. nitrogenous compounds   2/18/07
Dear Crew,
<<Hello, Anne. Tom with you today.>>
I recently purchased a 55 gallon slate bottom aquarium. I've scraped the old silicone out, cleaned and resealed the tank three times. I still have a major leak. The slate is flaking. Could it be leaking the water? It's very hard to lift the tank to tell where the leak is coming from. I am also not sure that I can safely dismantle the tank.
<<This one’s a little out of my area, Anne, but if the slate’s flaking, you won’t get proper adhesion with the silicone. Both the slate and glass must be perfectly clean and, in the case of the slate, sealed, in order for the silicone to bond properly. Now, my shortcoming, if you will, is in knowing how to properly seal the slate in order to get the bond that you’ll need to prevent leakage. I would hazard a guess here that you’ll need a clear epoxy sealer that’s, obviously, suitable for aquarium use but, beyond this, I’m at a loss to provide any hard information.>>
I have been researching fish for ten years and am hoping to get a PhD in aquatic animal medicine.
<<A commendable goal/pursuit.>>
I haven't started college yet and am having trouble understanding a few things. I understand pH and the measuring of Hydrogen ions. What I don't understand is the direct effect pH and ammonia have on fish. Is it merely the fact that fish don't come into contact with ammonia and nitrates in the wild?
<<From an evolutionary standpoint, I would offer that this is, in part, the case. Fish have adapted, around the globe, to a variety of differing conditions which is why we don’t have “one-size-fits-all” water parameters in the hobby. The most obvious example is the difference between saltwater and freshwater life but variations in pH in different areas of the world are certainly other cases in point.>>
Does it affect their bodily functions?
<<Absolutely. Ammonia, for example, adversely affects (burns) the gill tissues causing swelling/damage which inhibits/prohibits the uptake of oxygen and the expulsion of ammonia. The result is suffocation. Likewise, nitrites bond with oxygen-transporting hemoglobin in the blood resulting, effectively, in the same thing, i.e. suffocation. pH fluctuations can cause damage to the skin, eyes and gill membranes as well as altering, with sometimes fatal consequences, the very narrow range of the pH of the fishes’ blood.>>
From what I understand it's not that fish can't handle the levels it's how quickly it changes.
<<This is true, to an extent, with pH levels. Ammonia and nitrite levels, ideally, should never even be measurable but fish can/will adapt to pH levels outside of their particular norms as long as these remain stable. The current thinking in the hobby now is to adapt our fish to the pH levels of whatever our primary source of water – tap water, for instance – might be. Attempting to chemically alter the pH is, all too often, the recipe for a disastrous change in the pH levels of our tanks. Better to maintain stable pH conditions outside of the “ideal” than to set the stage for a potential calamity. (This almost always takes the form of a plummet in pH levels due to insufficient buffering.)>>
I know some fish can survive with gradual acclimation to abnormal levels. I have a bad feeling that I've got things very messed up!
<<I don’t think you have things “messed up”, Anne. These aren’t easy concepts to get a handle on. The important thing to do is take it slowly. Lots of folks become overwhelmed by the volume of information and throw up their hands in despair. Narrowing your focus to very specific topics until you’re comfortable with each one will help in avoiding “information overload”.>>
Please help a very obsessed and very confused fish fanatic.
Thank you so very much,
Anne  ( I hope to one day be as smart and knowledgeable as all of you)
<<Well, in my case that might be taking a step backward but, for all of us, thank you. I’ve got the feeling that you’ll far surpass my knowledge with a little more time and research. Best regards. Tom>>
 

Leaky MetaFrame Aquarium   3/19/07 I have searched your website to see if there were any specific tips on how to re-seal an old stainless steel frame MetaFrame aquarium and while there were some tips, I didn't find anything specific enough. <Let's add here> I have a 10-gallon MetaFrame that leaks all over, and I need to re-seal the entire thing. <Yes> I saw that the black linseed oil <This was/is just a solvent for the "Pecora" tar-like substance> or whatever sealant used back then should be replaced with silicone, and that silicone won't adhere to this old sealant. <Correct> How do I get the old sealant out and remove the glass pieces so I can clean everything thoroughly enough for the silicone to adhere? <Mmm, no need to remove the glass... Removing the old sealant can be a chore... some folks with lots of nerve and good eye-hand coordination can use a propane torch (outdoors) and a wing tip to spread the flame, to soften, loosen the old material... and a sturdy putty knife to remove most all... Otherwise, digging at this with hand tools, single-edged razor blades is what works...> (They're really stuck in there...) And, after cleaning the glass and putting it back in, how do I apply the new sealant and where do I put it to ensure a good seal between the frame and the glass pieces? <In the corners, all inside seams, including the upper inside edge of the frame... I would use black Silastic... to match... easier flow...> Do I put this sealant inside and out? <Only on the inside> And, should I remove the slate bottom too or can I just run sealant around the bottom edges? <This latter... after all the "tar" is removed, and all the surfaces cleaned up with a solvent (my faves are Xylene or Toluene)> Any help you can give would be great, I don't want to break the glass or do this project more than once if I can help it! Thank you, Jessica <Mmm, or there's always selling this relic (on eBay or such) and using the proceeds to buy a new all-glass... which is what I would do if all you're interested in is having an aquarium that doesn't leak. Bob Fenner> Re: Leaky MetaFrame Aquarium   3/19/07 Bob- Thank you so much for your help on this! Your tips were specific and very helpful. I do have a new all-glass aquarium that's low-maintenance, but I love a project, and I like these "relics" too. <Heeee! Are you talking about me or the tank!?> This will be my second one. Thank you again. Jessica <Welcome my friend... Oh, and if you have time, would you please consider making a few images, perhaps penning a short article re your experiences here? I will gladly help you place such. Bob Fenner> Re: Leaky MetaFrame Aquarium  - 03/20/07   I will do that. It will be a little while before all is up and running, but as soon as it is, I will send a couple of pics and a letter. Thanks again! <Do appreciate this... As am SURE many folks will who follow your input. BobF>

Fixed Metaframe   4/16/07 Hi Bob!   You gave me some help about a month ago, suggesting some ways that I could seal up my leaky Metaframe aquarium. You asked me to send pics when it was done and it is...so here are the pics! <A very nice job indeed; including an 'olde' stand!>   I cleaned the entire thing, scraped all of the old sealant out of the cracks, cleaned the glass with both acetone and then glass cleaner, and then I used aquarium-grade silicone and sealed up all of the edges. (Using the old water on the finger trick, I was able to press the silicone down in to the cracks for a good seal.) I then filled it with water to check for leaks, there weren't any after 2 days so I drained it and put it on the stand that I also restored, and it's been humming along ever since. I wanted to let it run a little before adding fish, but in a couple of days, I'm adding those and this project will be complete!   Thank you again for you help, your website is a real asset to the aquarist community. Jessica Beebe <Thank you for sharing! Bob Fenner>

Repair of slate bottomed tanks  9/13/05
G'day Bob
<Peter>
It seems like you know a little bit about slate bottomed tanks.  From what I can find out they were originally sealed with a tar - linseed oil mix (although I'm not sure if the whole tank was sealed with that, or just the bottom).  Seems though that most folks try and reseal them with silicone, which doesn't stick to potentially oily surfaces very well.
<Correct... have to absolutely clean>
  I have a half
dozen 55 gallon tanks that would be nice to get sealed.  Am I better off to try and reseal them with tar-oil, or clean them off with Palmolive and try resealing again with 100% silicone?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for any help.
Cheers
Peter Unmack
<Well, the semi-purist in me would like to encourage you to go with the old tar-seal... the actual lazy person I am would clean up the tar, lay a thick silicone bead down/twixt the angle of the glass walls and bottom, and the practical person would insert a piece of glass in the inside and silicone that in over the slate... Bob Fenner>

Removing Black Tarry Sealant (Chuck's go)
I was given a 45 gal aquarium which has a chromed metal frame. The aquarium leaks around the bottom in several places and I was considering removing the bottom and using silicon to reseal.
The glass and slate like bottom are all sealed with a black tarry type of sealant. The sealant has dried and hardened. How does one go about softening the sealant and removing it?
< I collect antique aquariums and have a few suggestions for you. Many of these tanks actually leaked when new. They recommended that you fill them with hot water and let them sit for a few days. The putty softens up and the weight of the water reseals the tank. Try this first before you tear the tank down. Once the tank is full of water they stay water tight for years. Try and find the hood that goes with them. When they are all together they look unique by today's standards and are still quite functional. If you decide to tear it down you will need an additional piece of glass for the bottom. Sometimes the silicon does not stick to the slate so you have to cut an additional piece of glass for the bottom and them reseal the tank with silicon. Make sure that you use the silicon that is made for aquariums. The silicon you buy in the hardware store has fungicides in it that are harmful to fish.-Chuck>
Denny Earle

Removing Black Tarry Sealant (Bob's go)
I was given a 45 gal aquarium which has a chromed metal frame. The aquarium leaks around the bottom in several places and I was considering removing the bottom and using silicon to reseal.
The glass and slate like bottom are all sealed with a black tarry type of sealant. The sealant has dried and hardened. How does one go about softening the sealant and removing it?
<Good questions. First, an important note re this tank and the prospective project of removing, re-doing the sealant: Do strongly consider NOT doing this and INSTEAD saving or selling the tank as is... it's a collector's item that has more value as is than as a re-done fish tank. Now, if you want to "fix it", there is a possibility that gingerly heating the old sealant (with a gas/propane torch... careful) and cutting with hand tools (putty knives, tile knife, single edge razor blades with a holder...) might do the job, along with cleaning up the residue with an organic solvent (e.g. toluene, xylene)... OR you might have enough seal to just glom on over the existing tar material with the silicone, encasing it if you will... do all the joints, not just the bottom here. But my choice is really to save or sell this "relic" as an antique. Really. Bob Fenner>
Denny Earle