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FAQs on Glass Aquarium Repair, Chips/Cracks 1
Related Articles: Aquarium Repair,
Acrylic Aquarium Repair, Cleaning
Aquariums, Marine Tanks, Stands and Covers, Used
Gear for Marine Systems, Designer Marine
tanks, stands and covers, Related
FAQs:
Chips/Cracks 2,
Chips/Cracks 3,
Chips/Cracks 4, & Glass
Aquarium Repair 1, Glass Aquarium
Repair 2, Glass
Aquarium Repair 3, Glass
Aquarium Repair 4,
Glass Aquarium Repair 5, & FAQs on Repairing Glass Tank:
Scratches/Blemishes, Cross-Braces,
Leaks, Whole Panes, Tools:
Cutting Glass, Silicone,
Moulding/Frames; Techniques;
Olde Tank (Slate Bottom, Metal Frame, Pecora...) Repairs,
Troubleshooting/Repairs, &
Acrylic Aquarium Repair, Used
Aquarium Gear, |
One must consider the time, trouble and likely further issues with
implementing a repair... Is it worth it, or better to just purchase
a new tank to replace the broken one? |
Chip Out of Fish Tank Corner 1/8/08
Hi, I just purchased a used
75 gallon fish tank and noticed that the top plastic trim is cracked in
the upper right corner.
I also noticed that a small chip has been
gouged out of the corner of the tank itself. It does not look like the
glass has any cracks in it.
<Good.>
Just rather that maybe when
it was stored, something bumped into it.
<Fairly common and likely.>
It is in the very front right corner, so it appears that the glass is
now thinner in this area of the corner. Does this weaken the glass?
<Technically, yes. But, if the chip is fairly small and there are no
cracks coming off it you will be fine.>
Will it cause the tank
strength to be lessened and not be able to hold the water when I fill
it?
<It shouldn’t leak so long as the silicone seal is not affected
by the chip.>
If so, is there any type of filler that can be used to
this area that might help it?
<I wouldn’t worry about filling it
in.>
Please help?
<If you have concerns of the tank leaking, fill
it outside and test it for a few days. Minor chips on the corners of
tanks are common and generally no big deal. It is when the chip is deep
in the pane of glass, effects the silicone seal, or radiates small
crack(s) that the chips cause concern. You can contact the manufacturer
of the tank and order a new top trim if you like. The damage you
describe to the trim can be fixed with a plastic epoxy if you want. You
can usually find it with the glues at most hardware stores.>
Thanks
so much!!!!
Bobbie
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
Chip Out of Fish Tank Corner 1/9/08
HI! I just got your response,
thanks so much, Very Helpful!!!
<Great! Happy to help out.>
The
chip is about the size of a dime and kind of deep. Almost like half the
width of the glass. Do you think that will still be OK?
<Likely
could be, a chip like you describe can be ok. Be sure there are
absolutely no cracks, not even small almost undetectable cracks,
radiating from the chip.>
I have not paid for the tank in full yet
and it is out of state. I won’t be able to test it for another month or
so. I'm afraid to pay for the entire tank unless I have a better idea
whether or not it will hold. If it has affected the silicone seal and
that is all. Am I able to just remove the one side of silicone and
re-caulk it? Or does the entire seal of the tank need to get removed and
then re-sealed?
<This depends, if there is a large gap between the
two panes due to the chip, I wouldn’t personally even try to fix it. If
it is leaking for some reason, I would cut out the entire inner seal and
apply new silicone. New silicone does not adhere well at all to
previously cured silicone.>
Also, the top trim that is cracked. This
top trim doesn’t have anything to do with the strength of the top of the
tank, right. It is just a cosmetic piece?
<For the most part it is.
Some tanks do use a plastic cross brace integrated into the trim to help
minimize deflection (bowing) of the glass. If this is the case you may
want to consider a repair or replacement.>
Thanks!!!
<Welcome and
good luck, Scott V.>
Small Chip 12/23/07
Hello,
<Sean>
I have purchased a used Red Sea Max aquarium and have noticed
a very small chip on the outside back panel of the glass. As the max has
an overflow, this chip is on the overflow panel rather than the main
aquarium panel. It appears to be a surface nick (less than 1/2" wide and
just few mm deep). Since the overflow only holds 5 gallons of water I
was wondering if I need to be worried about this chip and if so, if I
should try and repair ?
Thanks!
Sean
<I would not likely be
concerned here... re the size and type/place of this chip. Bob Fenner>
Tank Edge Chips 12/7/07
Here are some pics of the 90 gallon I
picked up for a $100. It's going to be used for a quarantine and
hospital tank. I was in a rush and didn't realize some of the glass
and molding <had chips>. Will this hold up? I have had water in for
24 hours and no problem but wanted your take on it. Sorry about all
the emails lately.
<No problem.>
1st pic is a molding crack
the rest are glass oyster cuts but no cracks. I did my best to crop
and fit for WWM sorry if it's not great. (Bob my apologies I know
you work very hard to make it all readable for the rest of the
readers, and my apologies to the rest of crew if this didn't turn
out to be best email sent. I did try my best before sending.) So
will this hold up for a couple years for a quarantine/Hospital tank?
It's even predrilled for easy access and for a $100 and no scratches
on front glass I fig what the heck. Thanks again guys/girls. Don V.
<The cracks in the frame/trim are of no consequence. The chips on
the outer edge would not concern me since there are no cracks
running off them. The main concern will be the chips along the
silicone seam. How deep are they through the seam? It is hard to
tell from the pictures. As long as most the seam is tact you should
be fine with this purchase. Welcome, Scott V.> |   
|
90 Gallon Glass And Molding Question…Chips In The Tank’s Edge –
12/09/07
Eric,
<<Hey Don>>
I had sent this an email
with new pics, might of got lost or you guys are swamped as always
so I'll resend.
<<Okay mate>>
Think this tank will hold up?
<<Hmm…it’s difficult to be certain from the pics as I’m sure you
understand, but I agree with ScottV’s earlier assessment re…as long
as the seal is intact, it doesn’t look like the small edge chips
should be an issue. But…I would recommend filling this tank
“outside” and letting it set for a day or two and check for any
leaks/failure of the seal>>
Thanks again to you and all crew
members for putting up with us citizens! :)
<<No worries my
friend…is what we do! [grin] Eric Russell>>
Re: Tank Edge Chips 12/9/07
See if these are better, thanks.
<These are easier to see what is going on. This tank may hold (you
have had water in it), but some of those chips appear to be fairly
severe. The two large chips above the thermometer concern me the
most, along with the two large chips on the other seam. Not only are
these large, but three of them appear to be where the panes are
bonded with the silicone. I may use it as a mixing tank outside or
even possibly as a sump with a lower water level, but I would not be
comfortable putting it in my house. Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
Re: Tank edge chips 12/10/07
Hey Scott,
Thank you for the
reply another question though if you don't mind, do you think I can
get it fixed?
<Possibly, I wouldn’t.>
Or fix it myself with
some silicone or buying a glass to brace it so to say?
<You could
put a strip of glass on the seam to help, but I am not confident
that it will. The thin layer of silicone between panes is
structural, effectively making this a structural defect. I will put
this in Eric’s box for any input here.>
Thank you for your hard
work and time.
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
Re: Tank edge chips 12/10/07 – Eric’s input...
Hey Scott,
Thank you for the reply another question though if you don't mind,
do you think I can get it fixed?
<Possibly, I wouldn’t.>
Or
fix it myself with some silicone or buying a glass to brace it so to
say?
<You could put a strip of glass on the seam to help, but I
am not confident that it will. The thin layer of silicone between
panes is structural, effectively making this a structural defect. I
will put this in Eric’s box for any input here.>
Thank you for
your hard work and time.
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
<<Hi
Don, Eric here... I understand and agree with Scott’s hesitancy to
recommend a “fix” for this tank. Without laying eyes on the tank, we
can only advise on the side of caution. You may well be able to
fashion a patch, but we can’t/won’t guarantee it will make this tank
safe for use. If you do decide to try to effect a repair, I would
affix with silicone two-inch wide strips of glass the full height of
the tank (use the same glass “thickness” as that of the tank glass)
on each angle of the "outside" corner creating a
double-layer/laminated effect....extending one strip just past the
edge and abutting the other strip up to it (with silicone betwixt),
and positioning this joint “opposite” that of the tank joint. In
other words, use these strips to create a corner joint just like
that of the tank, but with the “seams” in opposing positions. Also,
what is your intended use for this damaged tank? Even with this
“patch,” I would likely relegate this tank to sump-duty where it
would typically only hold about half its normal volume...and then,
not without filling/testing in a safe place outdoors for a week.
Abundans cautela non nocet... Regards, Eric Russell>>
Re: Tank edge chips 12/11/07
I returned it for a brand new 75
gallon thanks for the advice
Don V.
<Great, much safer. That
will be quite the quarantine tank, if that is still your plan.
You're welcome, have fun, Scott V.> | 
Mmm, makes RMF uncomfortable.
|
Chip outside new 72G glass tank 10/15/07
Hello,
I just
finished setting up my new 72G glass tank (bow face) and, after the
first night, I noticed a small chip on the outside right at the
intersection of the bow with the right side of the tank. Could it just
be the result of "settling"? There is no leak and it appears that it's a
surface chip. Question: should I ignore it, or should I replace? Note:
the tank is pretty level - might be a bit off on the opposite side of
where the chip is (meaning to level it perfectly, would require a small
raising of the opposite end of the tank from the chip)- which leads me
to think that the chip is not the result of the leveling.
Thanks in
advance,
Tejas
<Greetings. Glass chips not so much because of
"settling" as from careless transportation. The fact that the tank isn't
precisely level almost certainly doesn't have any bearing on the chip
you can see. An aquarium should be as level as you can possibly make it
though. But slight deviations don't matter too much. Glass is strong but
brittle, so while it resists the static force of water very well, if it
bumps into something hard, it cracks or chips. Conchoidal fractures
(chips that look like scallop shells) are very typical of glass being
struck against something like stone or metal. As for whether this is a
problem: if you're looking for a guarantee that everything will be fine,
I can't provide one. Glass aquaria are only predictable when they are in
perfect condition. As soon as they are damaged, the explosive forces of
the static weight of water can concentrate on that single "weak spot",
and the chances of failure increase. You might be lucky, and the chip
will cause no problems. But you might not be lucky, and a year from now
the tank will
Cracked freshwater tank – 10/9/07
I have a 45 gal. long with a
crack on the bottom. it is about 14 in. long and goes from one wall to
the other going caddy-corner. I got it from a friend who had before me
and he sealed it with 2 plates of 5/8" in. thick glass with silicone
between the plates and the tank. before setup I took all the trim
(except the plates. couldn't get them off) and resealed it and the crack
with silicone. it sprung a leak at the bottom of the tank on the face at
the joint. just a pinhole.
sealed it once more and let it set for 48
hours. I got the leak down to a slow drip, but would like it to stop. I
don't have money to buy a new tank but I have 3 tubes of all purpose
silicone that is waterproof with mold deterrent (sorry for the
spelling). what should I do and how can I get the plates off to do a
full fix instead of fixing around it. thank you for your time.
Andrew
<Andrew, I sympathise! I was in the same situation a few months ago.
Personally, I'm not one for repairing tanks because of the potential
damage that can be caused if you make a mistake. Check to see if your
tank is covered in your home insurance as well, in which case replacing
the tank won't cost you anything at all. Anyway, there's a whole slew of
articles on repairing tanks in the 'Aquarium Repairs' section of this
page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm
. Cheers, Neale>
Question, chipped glass tank 7/17/07
Hello WWM,
I was just given a 100 gal aquarium that has 2 chips in the corners.
They are sea shell shaped chips that slightly touch the silicon, which
I'm sure is not good. I have read several of the other questions you
have answered from people who have similar situations. From reading
those responses I am convinced that the tank can fail because of the
chips. My question is:
Would it prevent the tank from breaking on
that corner if I reinforced it with something like a PVC elbow and 100%
silicon on the inside and the outside?
<No or at least very
minimally...>
I am planning on building this tank into the wall so
the chipped edge would be unseen, it can be ugly as long as it works.
You guys usually tell people who have had similar questions to "give it
a try", which I am willing to do.
<I am not so cavalier in
general... I would at the least Silicone a length of glass (of at least
two inches width, over the outside and chipped areas... the height of
the panel>
I guess I would like to know if you have ever done
anything like this and had it work or is there a better way. Of course,
if the tank blows up on me I won't get mad at you guys, I just
appreciate the advice.
If it would help I could send some photos.
Thanks for your help.
Craig
<There are extreme possible dangers in
such a "blowing up"... Consider the suggested repair/band-aid. Bob
Fenner>
New 260 litres with corner chip and crack
7/12/07
Greetings from Canada. Great site! I've been reading your
site since I got my 20g :)
Recently I bought a new Hagen Fluval Osaka
260 tank with stand at closing LFS. During transport I noticed left
corner at the back of the tank has small chip (frameless tank with
aluminum brace covering front and sides panels). Good thing the small
glass grains didn't cut my palm. Looks like that corner got struck
before and I didn't see that in that under lighting LFS.
Once I setup
it up in my basement I noticed there is a small crack 2" length at the
back panel close to that corner but doesn't extend to joint. No leak so
far for 3 days now and the crack is not growing. It appears to be
growing from inside glass to outside but haven't reach outside. I will
double check if the crack is inside the tank (not only inside the
glass).
| |
| |
left | /
|__________
bottom
(view
from front)
Since it's final sale I contacted Hagen for warranty
and still waiting for a response. Meanwhile what should I do?
<Lower
the water level half or more...>
I plan to move in few months so
should I plan to patch that crack and test before I move?
<I would,
yes>
If I go with the patch, should I patch inside or outside or both
(I prefer outside since it's easier)?
<The outside... with a
strip/panel of glass... as/at I see below where you've been reading>
I read all Aquarium Repair FAQs and I would rather not go with replacing
back panel is possible.
Many thanks!
Norick
<Welcome! Bob
Fenner>
Chipped tank 7/8/07
Hi, I bought a 65 gallon tank
today. It was in someone's apartment on the 5th floor of the
complex. I had it in a shopping cart to easily move it around. When
taking it out of the elevator, the wheel on the cart got stuck in
the door track and the door closed on my tank. It chipped at the
corner of the tank on the edge of the pane of glass. I'm including
some pics. I feel it's in decent shape to use, but my dad thinks
otherwise. Was hoping you could take a look and assess the
situation.
<I see this...>
In the last two pics, you can see
the edge of the glass panel it's siliconed to and how deep the chip
is.
Thanks,
-Josh
<Mmm, the position (lower) and one
"spidering" of this break worry me. I would really like to see you
apply a thin (maybe two inch wide) piece of glass over both sides of
this broken corner... the height of the tank... perhaps overlapping,
or beveled... to prevent failure... 100% Silicone... Most any
thickness of glass will do... double-strength is sufficient. Bob
Fenner>
Re: chipped tank– 7/10/07
Hi Bob, Do you think using
Plexiglas instead of glass for the repair would work ?
-Josh
<No> |   
|
Cracked Aquarium Bargain! – 06/14/07
After spending an hour and a
half skimming through your site trying to find an answer to my question,
I found conflicting answers, so I decided to email you to get a final
ruling.
<Interesting. I typed "repair" into the search box on the
first page, and came up with whole bunch of pages on aquarium repairs,
such as this... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm >
> There
is an aquarium on craigslist for 75 dollars that I was thinking of
buying. It's a 75 gallon rectangle tank, stand, lights, and filter. The
catch is there is a crack on the bottom of the tank (See picture). Now,
I know that it is very expensive to get the glass replaced and much more
worth it to buy a new tank. However, someone said to me that she had the
same problem, put a new piece of glass on top of the old piece, sealed
it, and it has held fine. All in all, it cost her 36 dollars to do her
40 gallon tank like that. Is this something you would advise?
> Thank
you!
<If you're good with DIY and are willing to take a gamble, sure,
it's worth a shot. Worst case, you get a decent set of hardware and
simply replace the tank with a new one. But if you do try repairing a
tank, read up all the tricks first, take your time, clean the tank
thoroughly, take appropriate safety measures, get a friend to help, and
DO THE JOB SOMEWHERE WATERPROOF so you can check for leaks. Ideally,
work outdoors if its nice and dry where you are. Me, I'd by the set-up,
take the tank to the recycling depot (for the glass), and then go buy a
nice new 75 gallon tank. Cheers, Neale>
Re: banded
bamboo shark... in a tank that went kaplooee! – 5/25/07
Thanks
for your reply unfortunately since I mailed you ,what was a small crack
at the top of my tank has shot down from one corner of the tank to the
middle and back up to the other corner!
<Yeeikes!>
I could
hardly believe my eyes.
There (naturally!) was gallons of water all
over the carpet and the fish have all been moved to my 180l quarantine
tank. Thought this was worth telling you guys incase anyone else out
there like me thinks a little crack is not a threat. A CRACKED TANK IS
ALWAYS A BROKEN TANK! Thank you for letting me air my stress!
Cheers, Andrew.
<Hope all dries, but not the livestock... hope they
all survive! BobF>
Chip in tank 5/15/07
Greetings,
<Likewise!>
I got a deal on a pair of 55g tanks, and while getting them in the
door, I chipped the corner of one of them.
<Oops.>
Attached
is a picture of the chip. The chip itself is shaped like a seashell
half with a bump at the edge tapering to razor thin at the edges and
is towards the bottom of the tank.
<Technically, a conchoidal
fracture, which means precisely what you said, "like a seashell"!>
How serious is this, can it be reinforced without replacing the
whole panel?
<Potentially quite serious, because it is a
definite weakening on the glass.>
I think these are older tanks,
and have no center bracing if that makes a difference.
<A 55
gallon tank holds a lot of water, over 200 kilos of the stuff, and I
wouldn't trust that panel not to break under the force. Perhaps you
can donate or sell to someone keeping a snake or lizard? Replacing
the panel is an option of course, but hard work with a tank that
size and (obviously) has to be done properly and carefully.>
Thanks
Paul
<Cheers, Neale> | 
|
Crack in glass tank… 4/1/07
Hey guys, you seem like the
authorities
<Well Bob hasn’t given me my badge yet or a/my M-16,
hehe.>
Hi, do you know anything about aquarium repair?
<Anything? Yes…>
We just brought a 3 by one foot tank home and it
cracked at the bottom edge.
<Just bought? Is return possible?>
Its about a two inch crack near the bottom that extends to the very
bottom corner in the silicon sealing region.
<That’s not good.>
The top part is a hairline crack that may not even leak, but is at the
edge of the sealant,
<That worries me.>
it then veers out into
the pane before coming back and ending in the bottom corner where its
cracked all the way through, also touching the silicon. Is there any
way to patch from the inside, scraping the old silicone away and using a
small piece of glass on the inside and possibly even the outside?
<No if it is a true “crack” and not just a chip…the tank silicone would
have to removed, the entire tank disassembled, the broken glass plane
replaced…the silicone would have to be redone and allowed to cure. I
wouldn’t take chances with a crack in the glass and the living room
floor, the crack will spread and weaken the tank overtime.>
Or
make a right angled piece of glass on the outside around the cracked
area completely sealed. Will that absorb the pressure.
<No.>
Or should I replace the whole panel and scrape and reseal the whole
tank, which I really don't want to.
<If not this…the only choice is
a new tank.>
Is there any chance just a patch would work, even if
you absolutely coated the repair piece with silicon?
<Unfortunately
no, this wouldn’t be reliable.>
Cheers,
Eric
<Adam J.>
Question about crack in the tank 03/07/06
Greetings, my name is Murphy and I have a question about a crack in the
back panel of my 35 gallon glass tank. The problem, prior to the crack,
was a small insidious leak from th back of a threaded bulkhead in the
upper right-hand corner of my tank. I went ahead and attempted to
tighten the bulkhead up even more to see whether that would alleviate
the leak. Well, needless to say I tightened a wee bit too much and ended
up with a crack going from where the glass had been cut out to make room
for the bulkhead up to the top of the tank. Now, I went ahead and
applied silicone aquarium sealant to both the inside and outside
surfaces of the crack. though I should mention the crack seems to have
not breeched the outside of the tank and just stayed inside, and you can
see the crack taper up to the point where it meet the hole that was cut
out for the bulkhead. I'm in dire need of advice. can I get by with just
the sealant, or is this going to either A) necessitate the purchasing of
a new tank or B) replacing the back panel of the tank all together.
Considering that the crack is small and it's at the top of the back
panel, i figured it wont be exposed to much water pressure whatsoever.
And also, again, it appears to have not gone all the way through to the
other side of the glass, but i understand better safe than sorry.
<It is probably best to just replace the aquarium...on a tank so small
and inexpensive it would be more costly and more of a hassle to replace
the pane of glass. The sealant may work but what happens if you are not
home/on vacation and it breaks? It's better to be safe than sorry. You
wouldn't want 35 gallons of water all over your living room floor. Good
luck, IanB>
sincerely and with beaucoup thanks,
Murphy Conn
Griffin New aquarium cracked/shipped - 2/5/06
Hey! I bought a new, second hand, fish tank to day, quite large about1m
long 30cm wide and 40cm tall (for £10!!!!),
<sounds like a good
deal>
but as I was getting it in my house I clipped it on my garden
wall and it has taken quite a big chip out of the corner and a crack is
running about 6cm down it.
<Oh no!>
Is there a way i can repair
it (because I cant afford a new tank!!)
The chip might've been OK,
but the crack sounds far too dodgy... Only option likely left is to
replace the side panel(s) with new glass. Depending on the glass shops
you approach, it may be cheaper/easier to hunt around on message boards
or auction sites for another tank.>
If you could help that would be
great!
Thanks Robyn
<Best regards, John> Chips in
tank 5/28/06
Hello,
<Mornin'>
I have spent
some considerable time trying to locate an answer to my question, with
no luck so far. I had recently acquired a used 75 gallon
aquarium. Since it is about 5 or so years of age, the scratches on the
tank did not concern me. There is a chip on the outside edge of the
tank, but the glass is very thick and it looks only to be a surface
nick. Do I need to be concerned about that?
<Maybe yes/no... Less
so if "near the top", not deep/large...>
As far as I can see, it's
not near the silicone. The tank has been set up for about 2 weeks now,
with fish and plants in it for the last week and a half. While
maintaining the tank today, I noticed some chips/nicks on the inside of
the tank walls. I'm not sure if they were there when I first acquired
the tank or if they somehow recently appeared (though I wouldn't know
how). I am using a Coralife lighting system with full spectrum lights
for the plants, which can cause the water to get hotter, even though the
lights come with fans. I have also installed another fan which is
helping to circulate the air under the canopy and keep the water temp
down, but the temperature of the water is still
slightly over what
the heater is set at.
It varies around 80-81 degrees (which I have
been told by a fish "expert" that that is no cause of concern; although
it did get to 82 degrees today, but not sure if that is influenced by
the room temp being at 81-82, not yet using the AC).
<This should be
fine>
Anyway, the chips/nicks are very small, the biggest one no
larger than the pinpoint of a pen and they are in the middle of the
glass, not anywhere near the silicon sealant; there are a handful or so
on the same panel though very small in size. Should I be concerned
about these chips?
<Seems like you are... but likely no problem>
I don't want to come home to a carpet full of water and dead
fish/plants, so it has me a little worried. Any suggestions as to how I
can seal or fix the chips, apart from buying a new tank (which is
something I would prefer not to do, especially since the glass of this
tank is very thick). Thank you for any help you can provide!
Michella
<Mmm, some glass can be "filled"... some shallow pitting
can be "ground down"... but these are very likely cost-prohibitive (more
than a new tank). If the tank is fine thus far, it will likely continue
to be. Bob Fenner>
Overflow Crack ? 12/20/06
Greetings WWM. Am very excited
to be mailing the gods of aquaria.
<"Always thought I'd be an
apostle/disciple"... in my best Superstar voice...>
Lots of info
here - please let me know your feelings ...
<It's very pleasant,
warm down here visiting in FLA... and I'd really like a cool beer... oh,
that's not what you were hoping for>
thanks. Got a reef ready for
fresh water Glasscages 55x23x28 inside-water = 150 net gal with a
modified, (w/lotsa work), 45 gal "pre-made" Glasscages acrylic sump to a
wet-dry. Did my homework, it's been three months of work, used sched 80,
silicone and glue in all the right places. It is on the main floor, 3/4
in. Brazilian mahogany, over a weight bearing wall, finished basement
below - usa homeowners insurance no coverage (unless
vandals/fire/nature).? Any recommend?
<Mmm, call your agent here re
coverage itself>
Used double felt on floor under oversized 5/8 in.
plywood foot under modified, (w/lotsa work), wood cabinet carefully
leveled/flat with linoleum, (felt allows easy sliding everything without
water-nice).
<Good tip>
Used 3/4 in. pink foam (as per
Glasscages 90 day warr) and linoleum between stand and tank, to make
flat/level. The tank, (very Euro braced), is very flat/level all four
sides, with or without water, as measured on the top plastic trim and/or
glass. Top of water to inside bottom of Euro glass is 1 1/8 in. all four
corners. Have two center-end, three-side 7x10x29 in. overflows with two
1 1/2 + 1 in. bulkheads ea.
<Mmm, wish these were larger inside
diameter... even if fewer in number>
Tank glass is 1/2 in, overflows
and Euro brace surrounding the bottoms of overflows, etc is 3/8 in. Used
1 1/2 in deep half in. Mex Beach grey-black pea gravel - beautiful.? Is
it ok?
<For?>
Have had water in it for two months. Ultimately
did the fish free cycle thing with 2-5 ppm ammonia (Ace Janitor Ammonia
- comes @ 10% strength) 1 tbs at a time until nitrate spike.
<Mmm,
such exogenous ammonia can be made to be of use...>
Took three weeks
and worked great. Three ppm ammonia vanishes in two days now. Am
planning to get all the fish together from the distributor in one visit,
via the best LFS, (fish will never be in the LFS tanks, they recommended
this - sounded good), and put them all in at one time, (after major
water change).? Think this will work?
<Mmm, possibly... hopefully
no, little nitrogenous, other cycling issues... You're doing this to
lessen the chances of agonistic behavior? To save time, money on
freight? What re quarantine procedures?>
... so ... After six weeks
of water, the side of an overflow cracked from the bottom outside
corner, where the tank bottom meets the side, up 10 inches at a 45
degree angle, towards the center of the tank, across the whole width of
the side of the overflow. The overflow trickle leaks into the overflow
only, at the crack, when empty. There is no outside leak. This means if
there is a power failure, the 29 in high homemade 1 1/2 in. Durso
standpipe will drain the tank down about five inches from top, (to the
bottom of the inverted trap/street L), overflowing the wet dry sump by
maybe 20 gals. The Glasscages recommends drain, cut out the caulking ...
silicone a glass patch to the inside or outside of the cracked pane, and
re-caulk.
<Yes... this is what I would do as well>
They say this
normally happens because of homeowner leveling/flattening problems. Wish
I could find an angle off on this stuff so I could correct it and have
more confidence.?
<Mmm, floors under load are often different then
when tanks are empty... a good idea to fashion something... at least a
piece of plywood under all to even all out a bit... better to make a
more standard support (two plus by...) and set the tank/stand on this...
But, it may well be that an investment in a structural engineer is in
your future here.... See your "Yellow Pages"...>
Am hopeful it was
just a glitch, like a pre-existing crack/chip, or glass
measurements/tolerances off, or forgot/didn't put enough silicone under
that piece - oops. Is this a coin flipper, or what do you guys think?
<Glass Cages make good products in my estimation... Impossible to tell
re all the work from here>
Will wait for your wisdom before I do
anything ... and ... I have a fish dream.
<"Brothers and sisters">
Am starting them together as juvenile's. 5 veil angels, 8 boesemanni
rainbows, 8 Congo's, 5 clown loaches, 3 Bala's(-or-3 tinfoil barbs), 1
gold Severum, 1 stripe headstander, 1 red hook silver dollar, and 3
Siamese algae eaters.? Is this a good load for my 175 net gals? How
would you modify?
<Mmm... well... I'd settle on either a more calm
(centering on the Angels) or brisk (Tinfoils and Red hook) mix/theme
here...>
... aanndd ... Am planning a battery back-up to run an air
stone. Could you recommend a comparable/ better air pump than the super
Luft 38 - 22w (also, to put in the cabinet to keep the moisture down,
and run a stone with a one way check valve)?
<There is no better
choice IMO>
... Is there a comp/better heater than a won bro
titanium pro? ... Is there a recommended battery air pump? ... Mucho
Thanks for your help, Andy
<I do like this heater... Bob Fenner>
Tank Repair
Hi
I've read through your FAQ on repairs. I just
bought a second-hand 2ft*2ft*4ft tank (about 100 gallons I think - we
work in litres in the UK) and managed to crack one of the end panels
quite badly. The way I see it I have two options: Brace it both inside
and out - which I'm pretty sure would be strong enough as the tank has
built in glass corner filters and lots of bracing. It won't look pretty
but would it hold? the tank is made of 10mm glass. So I was thinking of
bracing it with 10mm on the outside ( a complete panel over the whole
thing) and 8mm on the inside.
Or I can dismantle the whole thing and
replace the panel and re-glue it. I've built tanks previously - nothing
quite this big but I'm pretty confident. This would be a nightmare
however because of all the bracing and built in corner filters (10mm
glass no less).
Is there anything I can use to dissolve the silicone
glue if I go for this option?
Please don't recommend I buy new
because it's almost not an option - prices over here for tanks are not
cheap. To buy the glass and glue would be the fraction of the cost of
another tank - even a second hand one. I got an amazingly good deal
when I bought this one. (the usual price for a second hand 25 gallon).
Any suggestions/recommendations would be helpful.
Thanks, Mr. Meirion
Jones
<Hi Mr. Jones, I would recommend replacing the panel with an
exact replica from your glass/glazing store. Probably the best tool for
removing the silicone is a sharp razor knife...be careful to cut only
where you intend. Make sure you cut down to clean glass and plastic or
metal frame, then reseal with new silicone to adhere where needed to
avoid leaks. Sorry I don't have any shortcuts. Should make a nice tank
when it's repaired! Good Luck! Craig> Cracked tank
Hi
<Hi Meirion, PF with you here tonight>
I've read through your FAQ on
repairs. I just bought a second-hand 2ft*2ft*4ft tank (about 100
gallons I think - we work in litres in the UK <Yep, that's approximately
what I get, about 430 litres>) and managed to crack one of the end
panels quite badly. <Ouch>
The way I see it I have two options: Brace
it both inside and out -which I'm pretty sure would be strong enough as
the tank has built in glass corner filters and lots of bracing. <Don't
underestimate the force generated by all that water> It won't look
pretty but would it hold? <I'm not sure, my field of engineering is
telecom, not materials or hydrodynamics. But, going on gut instinct, I'd
have to say no> the tank is made of 10mm glass. So I was thinking of
bracing it with 10mm on the outside ( a complete panel over the whole
thing) and 8mm on the inside.
Or I can dismantle the whole thing and
replace the panel and re-glue it. <IMO, you should go that route. A pain
I know, but better safe than sorry.> I've built tanks previously -
nothing quite this big but I'm pretty confident. This would be a
nightmare however because of all the bracing and built in corner filters
(10mm glass no less).
Is there anything I can use to dissolve the
silicone glue if I go for this option? <I've looked on the web, but I
can't find anything. It seems to me the best option would be to remove
the broken pieces and remove the remaining silicon with a razor.>
Please don't recommend I buy new because it's almost not an option -
prices over here for tanks are not cheap. <Ok, I'll hold my tongue> To
buy the glass and glue would be the fraction of the cost of another tank
- even a second hand one. I got an amazingly good deal when I bought
this one. (the usual price for a second hand 25 gallon).
Any
suggestions/recommendations would be helpful.
Thanks
Mr. Meirion
Jones
<Hopefully that helps. I'd recommend you check with the DIYers
over on the forum:
http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ or at OZ reef's DIY page:
ozreef.org/diy/ Have a good night, PF> Crack in My 150 Gallon
Tank!!
I just moved over the weekend and during the move I
cracked the back glass on my 150 gallon tank!! the crack is in the shape
of an "U". It is in the middle of the glass. I live in Inglewood, Ca
(near Los Angeles). Where can I get the tank repaired? LaTrice
<Bummer :( The best I could say is to contact local glass shops or fish
stores to find someone to do this. Good luck, Don> Crack in my
150 gallon tank!!
Thank you for your response. If I had a sheet
of glass cut and replace with a sealant and tape. would this hold with
all the pressure?
<Oh no, this would be an accident waiting to
happen. Basically the tank has to be totally separated and reassembled
using 100% silicon sealant that does not have any additives. This can be
a daunting task on a larger tank, but if you find some help and go slow,
it can be done. You can try to seal in just the replacement side, but it
very likely to leak and you have to tear apart the tank and do it
anyway. You can find several discussions here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm to see if you want to
proceed. This site
http://saltaquarium.about.com/library/weekly/aa050200.htm has a
discussion and stepwise instructions for replacing a pane of glass.
Unfortunately, many folks just buy a new/used tank. Hope this goes well,
Don>
Repairing cracked glass tank
Hello,
<Hi there>
I
recently unpacked my 48 G bow front tank to discover a crack in the
right hand corner. I have looked over your website and have read
many of the response to the situations many people had. I was
wondering if this crack is repairable and how to go about doing it.
I myself know nothing about the different glues and need advise on
this. I am not in a situation to go out and purchase a new tank. I
am stationed in the military and currently reside in Germany.
<I'd save up for a Juwel tank. The crack (nice pix btw) is "in a bad
place... and all the way into the (non-functional) frame... not easy
to fix... but worth trying>
I have found only one store thus far
to shop at but the language barrier makes it difficult to do
business.
<Uhh, it's someone else's country. The non-occupying
U.S. (how many decades now?) should offer some help here
(translation)... ask someone to go with you>
I know that if I go
in and ask about fixing a cracked tank they will only want me to
spend money on a new one.
<Which is (honestly) what you should
do... As stated, due to the position and extent of this crack it is
doubtful whether a repair can be effected>
I was reading one
e-mail on your site where the guy gets a tank from a college and
discovers a crack in it. The advise you gave was to get some 100%
silicone and a piece of glass and cover the crack. I was wondering
if this would work on my tank.
<It is the only possibility.
Though, it will require cutting away the bottom edge of the outside
"frame"... as I say, If I had the tank, were stuck out in the middle
of "nowhere" I might try this... You're not stuck>
I have
enclosed pictures and hope that they will open. I also wanted to
know if you think removing the complete panel and replacing it with
a new one would work better.
<Yes... but a bunch of work... not
hard, just takes a bit of time... look for 12 mm replacement
glass... I would try this ahead of the other repair mentioned
above... and save up for a new tank ahead of all of these>
Do you
think that a wind shell repair person could perform the work?
<Mmm, none that I know of>
I myself don't have the tools required
to do this.
<Takes (really) single edge razor blades, a steady
hand and lots of time, maybe a holder for same... some solvent and a
rag... a new piece of glass, silicone sealant... that's all>
I
know there are more options out there then just purchasing a new
tank. If it would be cheaper to purchase a new tank I will probably
end up doing that.
<This is likely what I would do>
Thanks for
any help you can provide. Brian
<Bob Fenner, "in the military"
as a dependent and more for thirty years... with about two dozen
broken tanks from such moves> | 
|
Fix-a-Chip?
>Hello,
>>Hello.
>I have a 45 gallon tank I
bought about 6 years ago. I moved it about a year after I bought it and
found that there was a small chip in the corner on the outside of the
tank. The silicone inside was still in good condition. I filled it,
and used it as a marine home for my 2 clowns, firefish, and
shrimp. About a year and-a-half ago I moved again and bought a 46
gallon bow-front. I put the 45 gallon out in my garage in case I wanted
to use it later. (It is currently sitting just on the garage floor) My
question is, as I live in Wisconsin and it gets very cold and because of
the chip, could there be any further damage to the tank that I should no
longer use it? I have watched the chips closely in the changing
temperatures and no cracks have started.
>>It is less likely that the
chip itself would present a problem than it is the silicone would. Even
if there were cracks beginning, there are a couple of different ways to
make repairs. I would let it be, and do the usual routine before using
it again (fill it with water in an area that WON'T be damaged should it
leak - let it set for two to three days). Marina Fix a crack
Back again, different subject... I have a 96x30x30 glass aquarium 10mm
thick glass. During a move the tank was set on a tiny stone (fish tank
type tiny little stone!) and a crack about 10 inches long was the
result. I have heard of repairing glass tanks with another piece of
glass placed upon it and silicone to hold it together, (The tank is
laminated glass, but I am still worried about refilling it!) How is the
silicone placed on the break? Is it placed on the break and the glass
overlaid or is it placed on the cover piece and all over? also, what
size should I use to cover the crack? Thanks!
<Is the crack in the
bottom pane? I would have a 3/16" or 1/4" or equivalent sheet of
acrylic/Perspex cut to fit the inside bottom, as close to the edge as
possible... and silicone all around the edge as well as the cracked
area... AND a smaller piece of the same material cut and fit over the
crack from the bottom... AND set the tank up empty, fill it with water
(after the silicone cures a few days) and see if this repair is going to
hold. KNOW that these sorts of breaks can be EXTREMELY dangerous... if
the tank gives way it not only will cause a huge mess, it could result
in very serious injury, even death to anyone near or under it at the
time. Bob Fenner> Big cracks in
Hello,
<I say a
greeting>
I found a 55g the other day, needless to say one of the
short side panels has multiple cracks running the length of the pane.
I think my options on fixing it are removing and replacing the whole
pane. I'm not sure that siliconing a pane on either side of the broken
pane will be effective or safe. Am I correct in my thinking?
<Not
worth trying... best to cut out old one, replace entirely>
I
would rather not tear the tank down, clean and rebuild it as the cost of
a piece of plate glass would be close to what I can buy a used non
cracked tank for.
<Bingo! If cost is the only or primary
consideration, I would buy a new tank, make the old one into a
non-aquarium... perhaps a terrestrial planted paludarium...>
Now that
I have dragged this into the basement though, I would like to do
something with it.
I am wondering if 55's are made with plate glass
or tempered glass?
<Almost all with plate>
If it is plate, I think
I can cut it for lids for some other tanks, use the good panes for a
plywood tank, or cut the panes and put them back together as a smaller
tank.
I do have some experience cutting single and double
strength glass from the hardware store. I've never done anything that
big though.
Thanks for any advice.
Peace,
-Z-
<I would get
some help... have a glass shop cut the glass for you if you have any
concerns... or lack a cutting table big enough... Bob Fenner>
Repair plans
I have a 72 gallon bow front. I developed a crack
in the center bottom of the back panel. I know without replacing the
panel the tank is shot with regards to fish. However I am considering
partitioning off the tank so the back center of the tank would remain
totally dry while the front and sides would contain water. It would
then be designed into a herp tank. My question for you is this. How
deep can I make the water without threatening tank integrity.
<Likely
enough... a few inches (3,4) >
I would like to take the water depth
up to 5-6 inches to allow for a good aquatic environment. This would
put water about 5 inches above the weak point in the tanks back. The
crack would be sealed and patched and glass siliconed in to isolate
about a 10 x 12 area that would hold small potted plants and
substrate. Do you think this would be to deep?
<With this repair you
should be fine>
I know about old and new silicone troubles and will
use acetone to prepare for the interior walls.
Thanks, Kathy
Brinson-Wagner
<I say press on with your project. Bob Fenner>
Cracked
>I was writing in regards to my cracked fish tank. I
believe it is a 35 gallon fish tank and we had a crack from the bottom
to half way up the side of the tank. It is an octagon fish tank and it
was not cracked completely through to the inside so we decided instead
of trying to take the glass out, we would just get another piece and put
it on the inside of the tank and seal it back up and see how that would
work. Well while checking it for leaks the glass on the outside cracked
even further all the way up the tank but it was only the outside not the
inside. Is there any suggestions that you would have for us other then
what we've done? We plan on taking the glass we put in back out and
trying to seal it better this time, because the first time we didn't
spread the silicone flat we just put it in as smoothly as we could.
Could that have been the problem? Thanks for your time. Tasha Duncan
>>Well, Tasha, that would depend on whether or not the crack extends to
any joints. If so, then the only repair is to remove ALL the silicone
(and I mean every little bit) and replace the panel. A local fish shop
might be willing to do this for you. If you want to do this yourself,
then search our site on "aquarium repair". I and others have outlined
methods. If the crack does not extend to any joints, then if you wish to
sandwich, you MUST be sure of a few things. One; that the silicone beads
have NO air bubbles in them. Two; that you place the glass, press into
place, and do NOT allow it to lift at all - this will create bubbles.
Three; the glass being used to sandwich MUST at least be as thick as the
original, and it MUST extend to all sides, corners, etc. Essentially
what you're trying to do is completely seal off the crack from all water
access, while creating a physically stable panel as well. Marina
Large glass tank... cracked bottom
I just purchased a 300 gallon
fish tank and the bottom glass CRACKED I mean cracked during transit. I
live in/around Chicago Illinois do you know anyone that safely replaces
this glass?
Thanks Larry Watson
<Unless the crack is small, across
a corner where it can be isolated, sealed over with a repair piece
entirely (the whole bottom) I would do as you suggest and replace it.
This is best done by the original manufacturer or their assigns (ask
them where they will warrant the repair). Bob Fenner> Glass
sides Acrylic Bottom
Please give this your best shot,
I have
a 300 gal glass tank with a broken bottom. ½” Acrylic is much cheaper
than ½” glass. Any cons to replacing the glass bottom with an acrylic
one? I have a steel plate stand so the weight is distributed evenly.
Will the silicone adhere to the acrylic and glass properly?
Thank
You.
Cavett Eaton
<This sort of repair can work... but not
always. It is best that the existing bottom (though cracked) be left in
place AND that a piece of plywood be cut, fit into the gap (if any)
beneath it... as the acrylic will flex considerably otherwise. Silicone
does "stick" to acrylic, but not nearly as well as to glass. Bob Fenner>
Glass sides Acrylic Bottom
Bob, Thank You!
I have all the
original glass and can put it into place before I put the acrylic in.
Maybe I can get away with a piece of 1/4 " plexi on top of the 1/2"
glass after I trim the excess Silicone away, or would you suggest
sticking with 1/2" plexi?
<If the pieces are large, with little or
no gaps, the 1/4" should be fine... I would make a good job (continuous
zig zags of bead) of Silicone between the glass and acrylic>
Should
I rough up edges for better adhesion to the silicone?
<No, not
necessary. Do lay in a good bead all around the bottom edge and smooth
with your finger, a tongue depressor or such. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
again! 2 chips in new
tank
Hi bob. I have a problem with a brand new 20 gal
aquarium. I just got it and it survived the drive to my house and I
managed to chip the outside of one corner while rinsing it out. as you
can imagine, I am pretty sick about chipping it. The small chip is
about 5 or 6 inches from the top, but it appears to have a tiny crack
running towards the edge of the glass, and I am afraid it will run into
the inner seal. The second chip is farther down on the same corner and
larger. There does not appear to be any cracking, but it etches in to
the glass deeply, and the surrounding glass looks as if someone shaved
it. It chipped around the corner in kind of an oval (this is on the
side, by the corner) I filled it up outside so it wouldn't cause any
damage, and it has not leaked yet. I would like to know if there is
anything I can do. I have never resealed an aquarium. Could this
damage cause the tank to burst? I live in an apartment and water damage
would not be a good thing. Thanks so much for your help!
Paige
<Good description, bad situation... could result in
catastrophic failure... I would at least seal another piece of glass
over the entire chipped plate... can be eighth inch thickness... with a
thin coat (no need to be continuous, but dispersed, over the cracks for
sure) with 100% silicone... In all frankness, it may be less hassle,
about the same expense to just buy another tank... Bob Fenner>
Transferring Part 2 (chipped, cracked glass tank)
Hey Bob,
<Anthony Calfo sharing e-mail duty, in your service>
Thanks for
getting back to me so quickly....gotta like that.
<indeed... Bob runs
a tight ship here <wink>>
Since the last email I sent you, we have
decided to keep the iron stand that the 125g came with (dh thought it
might have been too low, but alas he changed his mind).
<perhaps you
folks aren't as short as I am...hehe. I'm sure I wouldn't have hesitated
to keep it <G>>
So we don't need to worry about trying to switch the
tanks using the same stand. The 125g is on the stand and about 1/2 full
of water (checking the seams for leaks seeing it is used). But we found
a boo-boo (hopefully it won't cause any problems another reason we are
testing), there is a slight crack on the corner about mid way up
.......HELP!
<ughhh>
What kind of problems might this cause? We
have resealed it with silicone on the inside (didn't go through that far
but better safe then sorry),
<agreed...although old silicone never
truly makes a water tight bond with old silicone... only used for small
details such as this>
and epoxy on the outside. The crack is more
like a chip. Just a surface chip for the most of it. Can you offer me
any suggestions?
<ahhh...very good to hear it. For the purpose of
this discussion, may we call a chip a planar section or shard taken out,
and let us call a crack a concise line or fissure? By that definition, I
can say with experience and confidence that a chip the size of a small
coin is little matter at all beyond aesthetics. A dab of silicone on the
outside to protect fingers is more than enough. A crack of any size
however will inevitably run and is a serious risk that I wouldn't take.
It sounds like you have a chip and that it is no matter. No worries my
friend, you've done a good job with it>
We live in Nova Scotia,
Canada (right next to the ocean actually...what a beautiful sound at
night),
<almost makes you not want to bother with even a tropical
aquarium...beautiful!>
and only have one really half decent LFS
here. We have gotten most of our goodies from JL in British Columbia
<my goodness! And I am actually familiar with them... they are just one
of two dealers for my Book of Coral Propagation in Canada so far>
(would you believe cheaper for us to get it from the other side of the
country then right here in town, even with shipping).
<gee... that
doesn't say much for the LFS! With regards for the dear cost of freight>
So back to the original question....(can you tell I'm a woman...like to
babble...hehe) how serious would you think that chip may be?
<no
worries... and by the way, I'm a bloke and just as chatty!>
Thanks
for all your help and answers. Keep up the good work.
<with kind
regards, Anthony>
Hannah in Nova Scotia Chipped Tank
Hey Anthony,
<hello, dear>
Thanks for a very quick response....I
won't tell anyone you're a bloke...hehehe
<no, no... please do tell
all the attractive, intelligent single ladies you know that like
talkative gentlemen <wink>>
Okay dh feels a bit better now knowing
that the chip should be ok.
<good, as it should be>
His only (and
mine too) other concern is will that chip weaken the tank once the sand,
LR, and water are in? Personally I think he is being overly concerned
about this, but see his reasonings too....all that money and hard work
for it to crack later on us would not be pretty.
<there is indeed
some concern about a stress point, although a small superficial chip
really is of little matter>
I might add here too that if it was not
for Bob and the rest of you lovely people (the web page too), we would
have been out of the hobby long ago. We have gotten many answers and a
lot of help with out tank from yous.
<your kind words are overpayment
for the work done>
The latest was a calcium level of .......are you
ready for this........50. Yes 50!
<aiiiieeee!>
We lost only a
small (smaller then my baby finger round) bunch of pumping xenias.
Everything else is still alive and doing so much better now (go figure
eh) that the calcium level is about 450.
<excellent... indeed on the
higher end. I don't complain if it is over 375ppm>
I am anxiously
awaiting the transfer to the 125g and will send before and after pics to
you (I mean you helped get us this far.....why not share in the glory).
Thanks a million guys!!
<looking forward to it! Anthony>
Hannah :)
Bluenoser Tank Repair
Hi. I have a 45 gallon tank and
the center brace is pulling away from the sides. It is cracked, but not
all the way through. Is there any way that I can repair it?
<Yes,
please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm
A ready
repair can likely be effected by simply siliconing a glass or acrylic
panel over/under what you currently have. Bob Fenner>
thanks for your
help.
Lynne Aquarium Repair - 55 gallon
Hi Bob,
<Steven Pro this evening.>
I have a 55 gal aquarium which I am ready
to setup. I noticed a small chip on the INSIDE of the long front glass.
It is about 1/2 way down and front and center. I am VERY concerned about
putting water in it (55 gallons would be a lot of water on my carpet)!
Isn't there a lot of pressure on the glass with the water inside and
might it cause the chip to crack? If it is suspicious should I not fill
it or should it be fixed (and if so, how)?
Thanks in advance for your
advice.
Linda Ascencio
P.S. I read the article about the tank with
the chip on the outside but mine is on the INSIDE.
Thanks again.
<I would give this tank a test fill somewhere easy to clean up, like say
outside on the porch or in the garage. If you are really concerned about
it, I would not repair it. I would just get a new one. 55's are so
common that their pricing is very competitive and the warranty and the
time to repair would be worth the extra bucks to me. -Steven Pro>
Bit of a crack (repairing aquariums)
Hi there,
I just broke a
panel on a 180 gallon tank that was given to me, they are not very
light, do you think I can patch it, or replace the whole panel?
<Replace the panel.>
I need that cheap option, as a replacement tank
is quite unaffordable. All the cracks are quite well aligned, there has
been little movement.
Thanks for any help you can offer. Matt Adlam
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Aquarium Repair
Sir
<cheers>
One of the end panels on my tank has a serious crack in it.
Rather than just put a new piece over the old, I'd like to remove the
broken end panel.
<that is the best way>
Now comes the problem,
What's the best way to get the old panel out? The edges of the panel are
still held very firmly, the break is right down the middle.
<it is
very laborious work with a lot of single edge razor bladed>
I could
take a hammer to the broken panel, but that would mean risking breaking
one of the other panels. Any ideas on how I can remove the panel safely?
<indeed... after the broken panel is removed, you also have to cleanly
cut the entire inner seal out of the rest of the tank!!! Else, when you
replace the broken panel, the new silicone will not stick to the old
(never does and the tank will leak again). Some aquarists play it safe
and totally take apart the entire tank (fully), clean all edges with
razor blades, sanders and solvents... and then reassemble>
Thanks and
regards, Steve
<I generally don't recommend aquarium repairs... they
often fail unless you are VERY experienced and have the tools (glass
grinders, etc). Not worth the aggravation. Sell the aquarium as a
terrarium for reptiles and go buy another, my friend. Anthony>
Cracked Tank
Dear Bob,
This is my first time visiting your
site.
<We are glad that you found it.>
My son cracked the front
panel of my 150 gallon fish tank which I use for my red eared slider. I
only fill it about half way with water. The crack runs from top to
bottom. Is there any way to fix this or am I out of luck?
<It can be
done, but it is not a simple task or guaranteed. The broken panel must
be removed and all the old silicone, too. The new silicone will not
stick to the old silicone. You may want to pay a store to do the work
(if they will and will guarantee the work) or trade the tank in for a
new one. If you do replace the panel yourself, be sure to test fill the
tank outside or in your garage beside the floor drain incase your seals
do not hold.>
Thanks, Terri Anderson
<Good luck! -Steven Pro>
Scratches or a Crack in a Glass Tank
A little history:
This is
our 42 gallon bow front tank. It is two years old and has been moved
four times. We had it sitting on a home-made stand up until five months
ago when I went for the real-deal stand. We have torn it down (full tank
cleaning) at least four times in it’s life. For the past nine months we
have been using shale in it. It’s a little difficult to work with (and
heavy) and we always took care not to crack anything. This is the
important part: When we inspected the tank prior to fill-up we noticed
these scratches on the outside and are concerned. I filled it up
(outside) and let it sit overnight
<A very good plan.>
with no
leaks but I’m not confident in the tank after reading your board. For
now we put the fish back and left the water level below the major crack,
right where it is in the pictures. We don’t know what to do about this
and don’t trust the fish store advice. They all want to sell us a new
tank!
Thanks very much, Doug
<Unfortunately, neither of your
pictures came through. If you would like to resend them, feel free and I
will advise you as best as I can from the images. In the meantime, I
will say that if the tank is cracked, I would strongly urge you to get
another one. Repairing a tank is a lot of work and not worth it, IMO/E,
for anything under 90 gallons. Sell the cracked tank to someone else for
a reptile or small animal and buy a new one.>
Here is the major
crack/scratch. The depth is “just” detectable with a fingernail. It is
not cracked thru the glass and looks like a scratch but I’m not sure.
Here you can see the second scratch/crack starting at 4 and ¼” and runs
downward thru the water line at (4 and 3/8”) and ending at 4 and 5/8”.
<Good luck to you. -Steven Pro> DIY tank... almost
Hey,
<what?!>
My dad is building a 200 gallon aquarium,
<this doesn't
sound like a good start already>
and a light was sitting up against
the glass, so the glass got so hot that it cracked.
<bummer, dear...
I am sorry to hear>
There are a few cracks and they are in the back
of the aquarium. I was wondering if there is a way to seal those cracks
and prevent the glass from breaking even more, without replacing the
piece of glass.
<not at all... a patch would be structurally unsound
and the tank would burst in time if not immediately>
(because the
piece of glass is huge and rocks are glued to it). please help! THANK
YOU Sheri
<I wish I had better news for you, but it is bad. Not only
does the broken pane have to be removed, but the entire inner seal of
silicone in the whole tank(!) has to be scraped out. The seam of the
glass needs to be sanded down with very fine sand paper (to get the old
silicone out of the micropores) and the whole tank needs to be resealed.
The reason for this is that new silicone does not stick to cured
silicone (even when it is only a day or two old). So if you try to only
take out the broken piece but not all of the silicone too... old will
meet new at some point and that is where the tank will leak or burst
next. Some people say that it is such a big deal that the whole tank has
to be cut down and disassembled to be sure of a leak free tank. Best
regards, Anthony>
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