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FAQs on Glass Aquarium Repair, Techniques
Related Articles: Aquarium Repair,
Acrylic Aquarium Repair, Cleaning
Aquariums, Marine Tanks, Stands and Covers, Used
Gear for Marine Systems, Designer Marine
tanks, stands and covers, Related
FAQs: Glass Aquarium Repair 1,
Glass Aquarium Repair 2, Glass
Aquarium Repair 3, Glass
Aquarium Repair 4,
Glass Aquarium Repair 5, & FAQs on Repairing Glass Tank:
Scratches/Blemishes, Cross-Braces,
Leaks, Chips/Cracks,
Whole Panes, Tools: Cutting Glass,
Silicone, Moulding/Frames;
Olde Tank (Slate Bottom, Metal Frame, Pecora...) Repairs,
Troubleshooting/Repairs, &
Acrylic Aquarium Repair, Used
Aquarium Gear, |
Mmm, you can buy or build clamps to hold all in relative position...
Or use wood clamps... I use strips of strapping tape most of the
time myself. RMF |
Tank Repair Question - 4/21/07 Crew, <Hi Chris> I am
fixing to repair a tank, and have a question for you. What is the
easiest way to remove the plastic trim from the top and bottom of the
tank, so I can remove the broken glass and replace it. Is there a type
of solvent, or will this just "pop" off with enough force. I don't want
to break it. <I’d use a single edge razor or something similarly
slim and sharp (maybe even a flexible sharpened putty knife) to slip up
under the trim and free it from the silicon’s grip, then gently pry
off.> Thanks, Chris Harris <You're welcome and
good luck! -Lynn> Aquarium Leak (Possibility For Catastrophic
Failure?) – 03/09/07 Hi there, <<Hello>> I hope you can
help me out. <<I shall try>> We have a 140 gallon fish tank that
is probably about 10years old. Last night my dad noticed water droplets
on the outside of the tank and thought it was nothing until he put his
hand over to wipe it and it formed an even bigger droplet and started
coming out in a very very fine stream (more like trickling down).
<<Bad news indeed>> I've read your website but most of the questions
concern leaks in the silicone sealing - the leak that we have is on the
side panel of the fish tank and is the actual glass itself.
<<Yeeikes! I would drain this tank immediately for fear of catastrophic
failure of the glass panel>> It is pretty much like someone stuck a
pin right through the glass and caused a leak. <<Hmm...no youngsters
(or oldsters) running around with BB-guns are there?>> Now what we
don't understand is how it possibly could have happened and what to do?
<<Can’t say how it happened (likely something got knocked against the
tank), but the tank will need to be drained and repaired/replaced>>
My dad is looking for another tank right now but I want to know whether
we can fix it with a piece of glass and silicone or just sealing that
hole itself with silicone? <<”Patching” with a piece of glass
“might” be an option, though not often recommended...but simply trying
to fill the hole with silicone is not. Replacing the entire glass panel
is the better/recommended option, but considering the age of the tank,
perhaps simply replacing it makes the most sense here. See if your
local fish store/hobby friends can house your livestock while the new
tank gets established>> My dad is also worried that the longer we
leave the leak the worse the chances of it actually turning into a crack
and leaking the whole basement. <<Worries me as well...depending on
how low down on the panel the damage is, I can see the tank coming apart
with a “bang!”>> Should he be worried about that and what do you
think is the best thing for us to do right now. <<Yes, be
worried...and drain the tank...>> Thank you very much. An
<<A pleasure to assist. EricR>> Resealing 137 gal tank
I have resealed this tank 3 times now and I lost all my fish so now for
the question. I need to take the panels apart and reset/reseal them,
Do I need to C-clamp the glass in place while it's drying or is the
weight of the glass enough to do the job? <The weight of the glass
should do it> This tank is 6 feet long. The last time I sealed it I
scraped all the silicon out, cleaned it using alcohol and installed new
silicon. I wanted 36 hrs for it to dry and then refilled it with just
water and waited 6 hrs with no leaks. I then emptied it, put in the
black sand, rocks, plants, water and fish back in it. That night while I
was asleep the bottom seam opened up and 1/2 the water dumped out into
the living room! I don't want to risk that again so I want to replace
all the silicone. It seems to me the glass would seal better if it
were clamped tight while it was drying. What do you think???? <Too
likely to break if uneven stress is put on. If you do use clamps, either
make them wood, or insert something soft between them and the glass>
This tank must weigh 250lbs empty! Should I use a 400 wet sand paper
to ruff up the edges so the silicone will stick better? <No! The
silicone will adhere to the clean glass (use toluene to clean the last
bit off, and take care not to touch the cleaned surfaces with your
hands, fingers. Bob Fenner> Thanks! Old chromium frame tank
repair I have a couple of Tanks that where my Grandmothers and
they have a chrome finish around them, well just today I cracked the
side panel is there anyone I can have it repaired, I love the vintage
look they have and since they been in my family since the 50's is
there anything I can do, if so money would be no object. Edward
Reiman <Yes, this tank can be repaired... in a sense, updated. You
need to have strong wrists and a sharp box cutter, you will cut out the
present sealant and glass, get a new panel (from a hardware store
likely) and silicone (100%) it and the old joints all the way around
into the empty space. Bob Fenner> Repair of 65Gal hex tank
Hi. I've just finished reading all the tank repair FAQ's currently
posted and did not see this addressed. I have a >20 year old 65
gallon hex glass tank . It's not made anymore so a replacement is not
available. All the glass is fine. The tank has been used for salt water
and fresh water. Over the years algae or bacteria have grown between the
silicone seal and the glass, undermining the seals. Obviously it is
starting to spring small leaks. I'd like to repair the tank. <Not
hard to do> Several questions: Are there specific braces to use
to hold the necessary angles while the joints are caulked and curing?
<There are corner and cross braces made for the carpentry field that can
be used, but many folks find "reinforced tape" (like the types with
"lines" in them that are the Dickens to cut through) work fine to hold
the panels in place> If not, can one joint at a time be re-caulked or
should the entire tank be dismantled at once? <If all needs to be
done, should be done all at the same time. Build "upside down, with the
bottom on top> How do I estimate how many tubes of silicone caulking
I need so that I can have enough on hand? <Mmm, if done "properly"
doesn't take much. Maybe buy two cartridges (10.5) ounce and take one
back if un-used> I am especially concerned here as one of the faq's
said old and new silicone won't bond even after only 24 hours. Parallel
sides are 24 inches apart and the tank is 30 inches high. <I
remember this shape, size tank. Very attractive> Any suggestion on
sequencing of the seams since there are the six joints around the
hexagonal base glass and then the vertical joints between adjacent
vertical panels. <Best to make like tightening the lug nuts on a
tire, in roughly opposite arrangement, then bottom last> Thanks in
advance for any help. Laura <Do look, ask around if there is
someone, perhaps through a local store or hobby club, who has done this
re-sealing work recently. Much easier to "see" and do with a little
help. Bob Fenner> Re-siliconing glass tanks I've just
read through your advice on re-sealing a tank and it was very useful and
informative. However, I have one more silly question. If you remove all
of the old silicone will the tank not fall apart? <Don't know if I'm
following you here. If there is no sealant left... and you've
necessarily (to remove the old silicone) removed the plastic frame, yes,
the side, front and rear glass panels will not stay upright. Some folks
use the "old" frame to hold the newly-cleaned glass pieces in place
while re-sealing tanks... others use tape of various sorts or
wood/corner clamps. Bob Fenner>
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