|
|
FAQs about Marine Aquarium Heating, Rationale
Related Articles:
Heater Impressions (Reviews) by Steven Pro,
Marine System Heating, Coldwater Systems, Controllers,
Related FAQs: Heating 1,
Heating 2, Heating 3, & FAQs on:
Heating Methods/Gear, Heat Controllers
(Fans et al.), Measuring/Thermometers,
Heating Troubleshooting/Repairs,
Makes/Models by Manufacturer, &
Chillers, & FAQs on: Fans For Cooling,
Chiller Rationale/Use,
Selection, DIY,
Installation, Maintenance,
Troubleshooting, & Water Temperature, |
Look to the worlds oceans, reefs as an example of thermal
stability... they do change, but gradually... Too much change in too
short a period of time adds to stress.... disease. |
Temperature Variation, Austr./Fiji biotope 1/25/09
Hi
Crew. I have read through your temperature FAQ, but wanted to ask a
question of a slightly different focus.
<Sure>
I am endeavoring to
built a tank of Coral Sea / Fiji species (except for my Duncans, which I
love). I was wondering whether the wide seasonal temperature illustrated
below (admittedly probably surface temperatures for divers) suggest any
value for seasonal variation in temperatures.
<I see this data, have
been diving in both locales...>
Besides the fish and coral, is there
any suggestion that any of the organisms benefit from seasonal
variation?
<Mmm, good question... I don't know>
Bacteria, pods,
phyto, etc?
Aside from high swings "finishing off" already stressed
inhabitants, is there any suggestion that variation in Redox, growth
velocity etc actually increase strength? Many plants that thrive in
colder temperatures need seasonal variation.
<Again... you posit an
interesting/intriguing situation...>
I had set my controller to vary
from the winter maxima and summer minima indicated below.
Your
thoughts appreciated.
http://www.naia.com.fj/research/watertemp_lrg.gif
<A great
live-aboard for diving... Mmm, perhaps a visit to a large college
library... a computer search bibliographic search... Bob Fenner>
Re: Temperature Variation 1/25/09
Thanks Bob. I
will keep searching.
And actually I meant Koro Sea, but since I have
Duncans I guess both are true...Koro+Coral.
<Ahh, had thought you
meant your Duncanopsammias hailed from Australia's Coral Sea>
All the
best,
John / Fishnu
<Thank you John. BobF>
Tank Temperature 6/29/08
Hello!
<Hello!>
Since I started in
the aquarium hobby, I always thought that the ideal temp was between 75f
and 80f but recently, reading Ronald Shimek's "Marine invertebrates", he
says quote "I consider the temperature range of 81 to 84f as the optimal
and normal temperature to maintain all reef animals" also in About.com
they think the same way, can anyone clarify this?
<Well, either
temperature range can work. The key is to avoid swings. If 75 and 84 can
work, it won’t if your tank is 75 in the morning and 84 in the
afternoon! The lower temperature range is more natural for most of the
corals and fish we keep in the hobby. The lower temperature affords more
oxygen carrying capacity in the water and a slightly longer lifespan for
most. The push toward the lower to mid 80’s is twofold in my opinion.
First, many people battle to keep their tank below 80, while it can be
stable at a slightly higher temperature, 83 for example. The other
common argument for the higher temperature range is faster metabolism;
things should theoretically grow faster. >
Thanks
Gerardo
<Welcome, I hope this helps clarify, Scott V.>
<<A comment... this "position" re temp. of marine systems is a bit
contentious... the basic pros/cons have been gone over and over... even
on WWM. My opinion/direction is to encourage folks to keep their systems
a bit cooler by and large... the mid to upper 70's F.... granting them
some margin for safety should there be an issue with rising thermal
influence... along with slowing metabolic rate and all this implies...
longer lives, less maintenance... There are few habitats in the world's
seas where natural temperature is in the eighties F. continuously. RMF>>
Re: Tank Temperature 6/29/08
Thanks for your answers! I guess
I'll maintain my tank at 78-79f.
Gerardo
<Welcome, sounds good. I
too do maintain at 77-78 deg. F for all the reasons mentioned. Scott V.>
Is Stability The Key?? Temp. control, SW 8/8/07
Ok, so like everyone I want to say thank you and tell you what a great
job you do! Now, on to my question. What I can't seem to find is this.
If I keep my reef tank so stable that my temp swings are no more than +
or - .3 degrees am I ruining my corals (and other inhabitants) ability
to handle any sort of major swing in temp?
<Interesting to
speculate... don't know>
Is it better to have a swing of at least 1
degree?
<Mmm, don't think/consider that this makes much difference>
Is my tank more prone to disaster if it does swing after being so stable
for so long? Should I be less worried about stability and more worried
about my corals ability to deal with a slight swing in temp? Am I over
doing stability?
<Don't think so... Though there are definitely areas
of the seas/reefs that do undergo at times rapid and extreme changes in
chemistry, physics, a good deal of places have very slight, slow changes
only>
.....lol I guess what I am asking is this....Should a tank be
kept so stable that it runs the risk of possibly depleting the natural
ability of it's inhabitants to deal with temperature swings?
<Again,
I think this is likely a minor matter>
Is it better to let the tank
have a swing of a degree or maybe even 2 over a 24 hour period to keep
things "on their toes" so to speak? I'm really curious as to what you
folks think!
Regards,
John
<I sense a doctoral thesis or three
here... Bob Fenner>
Stable water temperature? SW speculations on a return from HI
snorkeling...
Aloha Mr. Fenner!
<Howdy!>
I just got back
from the Big Island and Kauai, where I spent ten days snorkeling to my
heart's content.
<Bet you have a nice tan!>
I want to ask you a
question that's been on my mind for some time. I have read, over and
over again, on this site and in your book how important it is to keep
the water in one's aquarium at a stable temperature, and that stability
is more important than achieving a specific temp.
<Mmm, yes>
The
reason given is that the enormous ocean environment provides a stable
temperature, which our livestock is inherently accustomed to.
<Agreed>
So, on to my question: I have noticed in years past, and
again on my recent trip, that when I snorkel, I encounter patches of
colder water, and then patches of warmer water, in the same general
area, while I'm observing species that I have in my tank at home. What
do you think?
<You are certainly correct... Particularly on the Big
Island, there are zones where much cooler freshwater is intruding from
"Pukas" and cracks in the rock... having traveled from higher
elevations... this presents a difference in osmotic pressure and density
as well as a varying thermal regime... Yet the life there appears
healthy to me>
Are these temp differences I notice more subtle than I
realize?
<I believe so... Maybe one way of putting this situation in
perspective is to realize that the motile animals (do note the
difference in species make-up and abundance in these areas in the way of
not-so motile and attached biota) do move in/out of such zones (near the
land, surface)... and that they are in good shape to begin with... and
I'd speculate that the mixing in these areas is to their advantage in
avoiding predation...>
I have been very curious about this, as I do
struggle to keep a stable temp in my tank in my south florida home,
especially in winter months.
By the way, I was struck by the
incredibly strong currents in the ocean!
<Heeeee! More than Tunze and
Hydor powerheads?!>
I have four power heads in my 130 gallon, and I
fear they are woefully inadequate!
<Ah, yes... a useful lesson>
I
appreciate whatever comments you have to make, and continue to enjoy and
learn from this site, so thanks!
Elise
<Thank you for sharing... I
do think "constancy" is an important aspect of our successfully
maintaining a small part of a captive sea... but it is only one area of
concern/influence. Cheers and a hu'i hou! Bob Fenner>
Heating/ cooling and too much too soon? 4/19/07
<Greetings,
Hays.>
I have a 26 gallon bow front tank. It has been set up for
about 3 months.
<"Set up" as in cycled, or filled with water? I hope
you mean cycled.>
I have lost several fish lately and currently have
only a prawn goby, sixline wrasse, cleaner shrimp and emerald crab.
<For starters, several fish more than this would be too many. Test
figures are very helpful here, and if you don't own a kit, you need
one.>
Coral include, polyp Zoë, pulsating xenia, feathery leather
toadstool, flowerpot coral, double ricord. mushroom and tube worm.
<Is this a first attempt at reef-keeping? I am surprised at the species
of coral you have together here for such a young system. Goniopora is a
species regarded by the majority to be an "advanced" reef-keeper
species.>
My lights are 130-watt power compact,
<Just one?>
heater is a 100w Rena Cal (best one I could find locally) with temps
staying between 76-80.
<Too much fluctuation, here.>
I live in
Mississippi with ridiculously hot summer days approaching. I am
wondering if I need to get a chiller and/or remove my heater?
<Removing the heater may seem well and good at first, but for stability,
you should have both and set them so that neither is working against the
other.>
Is it a good idea to use both in order to keep the temp in a
certain range?
<Oh, yes. See above.>
I turn my air conditioner
off during the day to save on electricity, but it is cool at night.
<Temperature swings of two or more degrees in a day are also stressful
to fish and inverts. Imagine the volume of the ocean and the relative
temperature stability of that huge mass of water.>
I am also curious
of how many hours you recommend the lights be on.
<See below.>
I
have had a problem with brown algae on the glass, is that more from the
fish dying or too much light?
<Hmm. Interesting point. Many algae
problems are attributed to chemical instability or imbalance in the
system, and this condition is very stressful to animals. Usually the
brown film you mention is considered by most to by a mild irritant, but
only visually. Most of the time it is part of general maintenance of the
system, and can even phase out as other more desirable forms of
competition spring up. As for the lights, I would think that everything
in this system *should* be fine with the light levels you currently use
(Goniopora is often found/collected in less than clear waters, in medium
light. I would recommend 8-11 hours of operation, depending on factors
such as heat-contribution, power consumption, and even algae control
(But the last the least). Ease into this if it is different from your
regular schedule.>
Thanks for the help.
Hays
<Welcome, and
good luck!
-GrahamT> Reef Tank Water
Temperatures/Fluctuations - 12/14/06
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I
have a 75 gallon reef tank with some fish and other creatures in
it. I'm having some temperature adjustment issues now that it's
winter. My sump [55 gallon] with the heater is in the basement, so it’s
colder there. I try to keep the sump temp at about 77, so it doesn't
get too hot in the tank during the day. My range generally goes from
about 76, 77 at night [75 really cold nights] to 78, 79 during the day
in the tank - it's hard to tell because I have both digital and paste on
thermometers and sometimes they read slightly differently, even from one
side of the tank to the other.
<<Mmm...the temp swing (3-degrees) is
not that bad, but you should ditch the paste-ons and obtain/use a single
reliable digital thermometer for reasons of consistency>>
I'm trying
to keep both the fish & the corals happy. I'd appreciate it if you
could let me know what the acceptable ranges are, as I've read different
opinions.
<<Water temperatures between 77-84 degrees are
acceptable...in "my" opinion [grin]. The key is to keep the night/day
fluctuations to a minimum, though a "swing" of three degrees has not
proven deleterious in my experience. I suggest you add a second heater
to your sump in the basement to help with maintaining temperature at
night>>
Thank you!
Linda in upstate New York
<<Quite
welcome. EricR in sunny South Carolina>> Heating/Cooling a
Tank
Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
After reading
through many articles at WWM I found that water temperature fluctuations
may be one of the main impacts to fish's health.
<yes...very
significant! Welcome to Ich-ville for starters>
There are some days
in the summer where the outside temperature swings way up and way down
and my condo is poorly insulated so these changes affect the inside
temperature dramatically... even with the central air on all the time.
This has lead to many parasite outbreaks and loss of livestock... and
yes I do have a 25watt UV sterilizer.
<do read my past posts about
how to correctly keep up with a UV for efficacy (weekly carbon, monthly
cleaning, 6 month bulb life, prefiltered water only)>
I am thinking
about getting a 1/4 hp Chiller for around $750.00 for my 180 gal. FOWLR
system. I am trying to stabilize the water temperature as much as
possible. I was told by some aquarists that fish get stressed if the
temp. fluctuates 2-3 in degrees at any given time within the day. Is
this true especially on a tank of this size?
<true of any tank
size... 4 or more degrees and I would be surprised if they didn't get
Ich within a month>
Is it really necessary for me to invest in the
chiller device?
<if your max high temp is not so severe (under 83F)
then simply set your heater for a naturally higher temp (add second
heater for stability) and compensate by less fish, less feeding and
better aeration (protein skimming, ozone and the like)>
Some feel
that a chiller is not so effective... unless you are spending well over
1,000 on the best models.
<not true... a properly sized and
installed chiller will do its job regardless of the price. A chiller
throws heat... do not mount it in the cabinet under the tank where the
heat will build up. Near the ceiling or in the next room (downstairs,
behind the wall, whatever... to dissipate the condenser heat will go a
long way toward energy savings and efficacy)>
Are there any
affordable solutions for maintaining a stable temperature in my fish
tank?
<do make the very best use of cooling fans for lights when on
and reduce the number of internal powerheads by replacement with a
single large external water pump on sump... sources of heat. Best
regards, Anthony> Reef tank Hots, or Not so Hot
Hi Bob
<Gary>
I have a short question with regards to the best temperature
to keep a Reef tank at. So many people say different things. I have
both Corals and Fish in my tank and I all seems to be fine, but I would
like to know if my temperature that I have my tank at is correct. I
currently have the water at 75.2F. Some people say that this is to
low. What would you say.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Kind regards
Gary
<This is actually quite a "challenging" question. You and I have
heard much higher temperatures recommended for general reef set-ups...
some folks advocate mid eighties F and there are proponents of even
warmer water! I am much more akin to suggest moderation here... and can
present the principal advantages to both ends of the spectrum. At higher
temps. most all life (fishes, invertebrates, algae, vascular plants...)
that folks keep does grow faster (not always better however), looks more
"vibrant" is more active... at lower temperatures the opposite of the
previous is so... but "things" that go "wrong" do so much more slowly at
reduced metabolic rates, livestock lives longer, tanks are easier to
maintain... Sorry for going on and on... the short answer is I would/do
keep my tanks in the mid to upper 70's F. Bob Fenner> Temp
concern 7/26/05
What is considered a big swing, ( sorry for the
dumb question ) temp at current is 77.8 degrees. A time factor is
involved here, Heather. A five degree swing in eight hours isn't
good. In my opinion, no more than a 5% swing in 24 hours. Keep in
mind, the water temp where our fish come from is relatively stable,
there are no swings. James (Salty Dog)>
thanks for the quick
response and help :) Stability Is The Key...
Hey guys,
I had two quick questions. First, what temperature should I keep my
tank, which houses a Humu and a damsel.
<I like a temperature of 76-
80 degrees Fahrenheit...Stable temperature is more important than any
one specific number, IMO>
My other question is that I have some sort
of reddish dots/algae on the glass that I am not able to scrape off
successfully, do you have any clue to what it is? I do 25% water
changes weekly. Thanks a lot, Jon
<Well, Jon- it sounds like some
sort of algae or diatom...Hard to be specific without seeing it.
However, it's a safe bet that, if you continue to exercise good
husbandry (such as the water changes, with high quality water), and
utilize various nutrient export processes, than this possible nuisance
algae will go away. Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Tank
Temperature 10/8/03
I have had all kinds of advice on tank temp.
Anywhere from 72 f to 78 f. What temp do you prefer? And what temp would
you recommend for a 40 gallon reef tank with 3 fish and lots of coral?
My current temp is steady @ 75 f. Thanks, Jason
<the water temp
depends on what you will be keeping. Freshwater or Saltwater, and fishes
from what region? In general though... 76-78 F is a good range for most
tropical species. Anthony> - Specific Gravity & Temperature -
Hi, Hope all is doing well there. I have a 75 gallon F/O tank. My fish
are: 2 percula clowns, 2 lemon butterflies and 1 coral beauty angel.
Please tell me what you recommend for tank temperature and specific
gravity. I have been keeping the tank at 76 degrees and the specific
gravity at 1.021. Thank you, James
<James, I'd shoot for 1.025 for
salinity - it's what the ocean is typically at. As for temperature, you
could go a little higher, but there's nothing wrong with 76F - 76-78F is
ideal.
Cheers, J -- > - Dealing with Heat -
Howz it
goin??
<It's goin'...>
I have what could be a
problem... I am living in Ottawa Canada, and our summers are VERY
hot. It was 34 degrees today, and my fish tank's temperature is
currently at least 31. First of all, will this be a problem. <Yes... it
will raise the metabolism of anything you are keeping in the tank - most
certainly will be fatal for corals. Fish can tolerate it for a while,
but not for too long.> If so is there anything I can do to fix it. <I'd
start by running a fan across the surface of the water... then, perhaps
lighting the tank opposite daylight, to avoid heat build up... there are
other options, but I would start here.> Thanx for the help.
Steve
<Cheers, J -- > Questions on temperatures - 11/17/04
Hi guys.
First like to thank you for the great site, I have been
finding so much info here. <Excellent. Tis our modus operandi!> But I do
have a question. I have had my saltwater tank going for 87 days now. <2
and a half months is still quite a new tank in my opinion.>
45
Gallon tank, 44 lbs. Live Rock, (2) AquaClear 200, (2) Powerhead 402,
Red Sea Prizm Protein Skimmer, 30lbs. Seeded Aragonite powdered sand,
40lbs. Crushed Coral Substrate. <The sand is underneath the crushed
coral? Not necessary to do this> (2) 30W Aqua Glo "12 hours/day" (2)
10000K Blues "14 hours/day"
Livestock:
(1) Bianni Cardinal,
<Banggai??> (2) Pajama Cardinals, (1) Scopas Tang, (2) Clownfish
"Percula", (1) Dwarf Lionfish, (1) Coris Wrasse <Too many fish for this
small a set-up The cardinals are a good choice, the clownfish is likely
fine, the Scopas, the Lionfish, and the Coris concern me. This a quite
mis-understood fish. The usually range in size but if I were you, I
would positively identify my fish and do some research on their size and
habitat. I think you will be shocked.>
(4) Electric Blue Hermits,
(1) Scarlet Red Hermit, (1) Electric Orange Hermit, (2) Mithrax Crabs
(1) Pineapple Brain Coral, (1) Xenia Pulsing Coral
Temp: 25, <77
Fahrenheit> pH: 8.3, Ammonia 0.0., Nitrite 0.0, Nitrate 0.0
,Phosphate 0.1, Gravity 1.025, kH: 13 dKH, Cu 0.0, Ca 440
I do
regular maintenance every week, having got my brown algae under control.
<Excellent to hear!!! This the proper way to start out. Good on ya,
mate!>
My question is this. I have read that many reef keepers are
keeping their tanks between 80-85 degrees. What are the pros and cons
of keeping my tank this warm? <Well, I would rather state, in my
opinion, having traveled to quite a few tropical locales and have been
diving in various tropical regions, I would be more concerned with the
average of low and high water temps as it relates to reef keeping. Do
some research after positively identifying you inhabitants, look at
their region, there should be some info on the average temps of their
location. Then adjust your tank. I personally prefer the average of
77-80. My tanks do tend to fluctuate in temp as lights tend to warm the
water a bit. Plus summer temps tend to also help my water to warm. So
you may need do some adjusting or add a chiller or something of that
magnitude.> Do corals prefer a warmer tank? <74-84 is, in my opinion
considered extreme ends of the spectrum when it comes to most corals>
And do you think my lighting schedule is ok? <Should be OK. Watch the
corals. For pulsing Xenia it is likely enough light but I think the
Pineapple coral will likely need more powerful PAR lighting. I keep my
schedule at around 10 hours or so. It really is determined by the
animals, then by lighting, then schedule in that order, in my personal
opinion. Thanks for participating! ~Paul>
Water temperature
for my FOWLR angelfish tank
Good Afternoon,
I have a 125 gal
FOWLR tank. 1 5 inch Imperator & 1 7 inch Blue Faced Angel. I just added
a 36 watt UV on the tank with a pump for it in my wet/dry. The
temperature of my water is 83 degrees. Do I need a chiller? I was told
that Angels like warmer water, but will that do harm long term???
<Should be fine... will slightly shorten lifespans, could cause trouble
in terms of gas solubility... in the event of power outage, overfeeding,
die-off... Bob Fenner> Tank Overheating - 06/13/05
Hi!
<<Hello!>>
It is miserably hot at the moment in Montreal (no joke,
it can be hot in Canada too). My tank's temperature is peaking at 30C
since a week.
<<Okay, for my/our readers use that converts to
86F. This temperature is higher than I would recommend someone to keep
their tank, but not really "out of bounds" if kept consistent.>>
I
just bought 130lbs of Fiji LR a month ago. For now that's all there is
in the tank with a baby ocellaris and a wormfish (magnifica). I am
already running a fan over the tank and within a week I am getting air
conditioning (ouf!).
<<Wonderful stuff that air conditioning...of
course I live in the sultry Southeast.>>
Is the LR/micro fauna
endangered by such temperatures (30C)? I am freaking to think the LR
may be "damaged" (it was a big investment) and also worried about the
friendly fishes. Should I really be worried?
<<If you're "peaking"
at 30C and dropping no more than a couple degrees at night I think
you'll be fine for now. The elevated temperature will get everyone's
metabolisms running, but if you ensure good water flow and oxygenation
your rock and critters should make it without any permanent damage. And
keep in mind your rock was collected from very shallow waters that get
"very warm" under the hot tropical sun...even totally exposed at times
during low tide...little concern here, really. But if you want to go to
the trouble, fill a couple 2L soda bottles about half full of water and
freeze 'em. Then during the hottest part of the day float the frozen
bottles in the tank to help keep the temperature down. If that's not
practical for you then add another fan to blow across the surface of the
water. You can also set the timer on your lights to shut off during the
hottest part of the day; it won't hurt to do this until you get your
conditioned air. At any rate, I think all will be fine until the air
conditioning kicks in.>>
Thanks! Dominique
<<Welcome, Eric R.
(currently sweltering in 90+ temps and humidity himself)>>
Temperature Swings and Algae Things (New Tank Breaking In>
Hiya
Bob or whoever is sitting in today,
<Howzit? Scott F. here today!>
My tank has been circulating and in operation for about 5 months, the
lights were only switched on for the first time about 4 weeks ago, only
a number of Chromis in the tank when they got switched on. The tank is
9'x2'x2', about 320g including sump and refugium (which isn't populated
yet), with what can only be described as an abundance of lights, 4x400w
MH and 4x60w actinics.
<Sounds great!>
Originally I was going
for an SPS setup but my tastes have changed and primarily I will be
going for stonies, mushrooms and zoanthids.
<I am a big fan of some
of the LPS corals, myself, such as Faviids. Maybe not as "trendy" as the
SPS corals, but every bit as pretty and interesting, IMO!>
So my
lighting needs have definitely reduced, although I would like to keep
clams.
<An interesting mix.>
The problem I had is soon after
switching on the lights, I had to go away for 2.5 weeks with work. My
girlfriend kept an eye on the tank, and I had a man from the LFS who
helped set it up come round once a week.
<Good!>
When I
returned, I had a serious algae problem. The front of the glass had been
cleaned by the LFS guy, but there were filamentous algae growth in nice
bunches over various parts of the tank, and the back screen had almost a
total cover of it that looked like it could be peeled away.
<Unfortunately, this is a very common occurrence in new systems, which
are rich in nutrients and short on mature nutrient export systems.>
I went to the LFS and bought a load of snails and hermit crabs (I did
have a small number of both of these already), and also got myself the
first of my real fish, 4x Yellow Tangs. These were preplanned and not an
impulse buy and it seemed like a good time to get the algae eaters in.
<It is. However, I'd like to think that you'll embrace a quarantine
procedure in the future with all new fish, particularly Tangs, which are
notoriously susceptible to parasitic infections.>
Upon return I
discovered my second problem, the temperature outside was about as hot
as it gets in England, about 31C, and my tank temperature was up to 29C.
This I found out as I was letting my Yellow Tangs acclimate in their
bags. (As the tank was empty bar the Chromis and cleanup crew I
didn't quarantine)
<Still a good idea, as you don't want new fish to
bring potentially infectious diseases into this new tank...>
Immediately turned off the lights and went outside to check if the
chiller was working, it was, but I guess the poor thing was struggling
with it being so hot outside.
<Understandable!>
Next day, the
Tangs seemed to be fine, the cleanup crew were getting around and
nothing seemed the worse for wear.
<Good to hear.>
I changed the
lighting period to switch on later than usual, bringing the lighting
period to start as the sun is setting, and hence colder outside to give
the chiller a better chance. This didn't seem to make much of a
difference, as for the last hour or so of the 12 hour main lights
lighting period my temperature had once again hit 29C. Fortunately,
there is little in the tank to get stressed over this, and the Tangs are
coping far better
than I thought they would. I have read from Eric
Borneman's book that temperatures on the reefs can exceed this.
<Yes, but it's not a good idea for extended periods of time, of course.>
But I bet the swings were not so high overnight.
<Correct, in most
cases, although some lagoons and reef flats affected by tidal changes do
have such fluctuations.>
I have read on your site that swings of
over 4F are to
be avoided.
<Ideally, yes.>
Is this
definitely a big problem that I need to sort out or can I allow the tank
to take a nearly 5F swing almost everyday?
<Well, it's not an ideal
situation on a daily basis, so you will most likely want to make some
hardware changes to cope with this fluctuation in temperature.>
I
assume not and see 3 potential solutions to the heating issue:
1>
Change the lights, as stated, it is a lot of lights for the system and
probably should be reduced.
<Certainly will save on energy costs,
but you have to make sure that your future plans for this system will
not require such high intensity lighting, or you'll be in for
frustration!>
2> Add a second chiller outside inline with the first
to maybe kick in at about 0.5C higher than the first.
<A functional
idea, but it may be better to simply invest in a more powerful chiller
and just have one.>
3> Redrill the lighting fitting to have the
lights sit another few inches above their current location.
<Again,
another potentially viable idea.>
Any thoughts on which I should use
or definitely shouldn't use?
<Personally, I like the idea of cutting
back on the lighting (if that works for you), and perhaps a more
powerful chiller. Additionally, you may want to blow a fan or two
directly into the sump, for evaporative cooling to occur.>
Also my
algae problem is real bad, I am going to trim back as much of it as I
can for now, and I have no idea where the nutrients for its growth have
come from.
<Lots of possibilities: Source water, material in the
rocks and substrate, even salt mix or carbon! Do investigate.>
Once
it is pretty close to the rocks I am going to see how well my Tangs can
handle the situation.
<Hopefully, they can make a measurable
impact.>
Any ideas on algae control or do you think I should be ok
with what my current course of action is?
<I would look into the
possibilities outlined above. As stated previously, such algae outbreaks
are common in new systems, so don't be discouraged. Continue to manage
nutrient export processes (i.e.; aggressive protein skimming, water
changes with good-quality source water (RO/DI), careful feeding, general
good husbandry habits, and a healthy dose of patience! You can and will
get through this phase if you think along those lines.>
Sorry for
the lengthy email but I wanted to set the scene a little first.
<No
apology needed; you did a great job!>
Thanks in advance, Gary
<Best of luck to you, Gary! Hang in there! Regards, Scott F.>
|
|
