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FAQs on Establishing Nutrient/Biological Cycling in
Marine Systems, Using Live Rock, Live Sand
Related FAQs: Establishing Cycling 1,
Establishing Cycling 2, Establishing
Cycling 3, Establishing Cycling 4, Establishing
5, Establishing Cycling 6,
Establishing Cycling 7,
Marine Cycling 8,
Marine Cycling 9,
Biological
Filtration,
Marine Cycling 10, & FAQs on Biological
Cycling: Science/Rationale,
Techniques/Methods:
Seeding Filter Media,
Using Livestock,
Cycling Products: By Manufacturers/Names:
Bio-Spira,
Cycle... Chemical Feeding,
Anomalies/Fixing 1,
Trouble/Fixing 2, &
Fluidized
Beds,
Undergravel
Filters/Filtration, Denitrification/Denitrifiers,
Ammonia, Nitrites,
Nitrates, Phosphates, &
Nutrient Export,
Related Articles: Establishing Cycling, BioFiltration,
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Oh, yes... does indeed work... to establish both cycling
directions... nitrification and denitrification. Dry sand on the other
hand... |
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Dry Live Sand 4/5/08
Hi I have a question regarding DSB's I currently have two inches of
aragonite sand and want to seed it with live sand, my LFS told me to use pink
live sand (not really pink just called that) which is the type they claim to use
on their tanks which look great.
<OK>
My only problem with this is that the sand is shipped like aragonite sand in
that it is dry in a plastic bag. I was wondering if dry live sand is just a scam
or if the microfauna is able to live dry?
<There will be absolutely no seeding benefit from this sand, and for that matter
very little from water packed sand in a bag. The best thing you can do to seed
your system is to talk someone with an existing tank into a cup of their sand or
to simply add live rock to the system. Regards, Scott V. >
Re: Dry Live Sand 4/7/08
This question is for Scott V.
<Hello, with you.>
I Recently asked if dry live sand is at all reliable as a live sand and upon
further research found a company that sells wet live sand by the pound which is
perfect for me because I only need about 7 pounds to seed my aragonite sand.
They claim that there live sand has lots off little pods, worms and such but I
wanted to ask if these beneficial beasties would survive the collection/shipping
process and make it to my tank. Thanks and I will try to procure a cup of live
sand from an aged tank!
<True wet live sand will be of some benefit, much of the life in it will survive
shipping. Although simply seeding from another tank or live rock is the easiest
and most cost effective. Welcome, enjoy the new tank, Scott V.> |
Tank Breakdown...
re-establishing SW cycling with dead live sand 11/11/07
Hi there,
<David>
I recently broke down a 72 gallon tank and stored the live sand in buckets.
After s few weeks,
<... stinky...>
I set up a tank solely for the purpose of preparing replacement water for my
water changes on a smaller tank that I have. I put in this sand after I washed
it many times.
<Oh, good>
As expected, the readings were off the charts. I know all the fauna perished -
however, I want to - at some point - reuse the sand. I am weekly changing 50% of
the water in this tank - yet the readings have not dropped - am I not being
realistic here?
What should I expect? Should I just start fresh and throw this out?
<Mmm, I would just add a bit... a few pounds, of live rock... and let this
re-seed the sand>
I am confused.
<Mmm, more impatient...>
Your advice is valued....and as always - many thanks for maintaining this
invaluable source of info for a hobby that I love.
Cheers,
David
<It is for you we endeavour to share. Ten deep breaths, long walks... let time
go by here... with some LR added. Bob Fenner>
Live Rock Cycling 5/11/06
Hello Again WWM Crew, Your help thus far has gotten me to where I am and I
am ready to take my next step! I was hoping you could answer a few questions to
help me do this.
<<Woo Hoo! Off to the races! Will be glad to help out.>>
I have a 75gal display tank with an overflow plumbed down to my basement into a
55gal tank converted to a refugium/sump. I have 1 inch of 50/50 live
sand/aragonite in the display tank and 4 inches of the same in the
refugium. The live sand has been in the system for over a month and there are
definite signs of life. I have been curing 70 lbs. of previously uncured
Caribbean and Tonga live rock for the past 2-1/2 weeks with my Aqua C remora in
operation in plastic drums. There is no detectable ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate
at this point.
<<Sounds like a very nice set up! All sounds very good.>>
This leads to my questions: Some of the rock still has a strong odor, is it safe
to place into my
system yet? Once it is in the tank, should I expect another Nitrogen cycle?
<<Hmmm... Shouldn't still be all that stinky unless there is a lot of decaying
matter still attached. I would go over the rock an carefully remove any dead or
dying material (even using a toothbrush or small scrub brush in
places). Afterwards, do a large water change... on the order of 50%. If you
haven't been doing water changes, change another 50% in a few days. The rock
should not cycle again after moving to the display.>>
Will the tank be considered safe to add fish at this point or do I need to cause
another cycle - perhaps using cocktail shrimp? (raw or cooked?)
<<I would wait until you resolve the smell issue. The fact that you aren't
getting any ammonia, nitrite or nitrate could just mean that it is being
processed as fast as it is being produced. If there is enough stuff on your
rock to stink... there is plenty to fuel the cycle. There is no benefit to
using a piece of shrimp or other piece of rotting meat to drive a cycle.>>
How long should I wait until I can a few fish (pair of clowns) after all looks
good?
<<After the stink is gone, you should be fine to move the rock to the display
and start adding animals. I guess I should concede that the "stinkiness" of
live rock is quite subjective. If I unloaded my tank right now, my wife would
say it stinks to high heaven, but I would say it smells like the beach. Whether
or not you find such smells pleasant or objectionable the difference in odor
between living things (even unpleasant ones) and the stench of decaying organic
matter is usually instinctively clear. Your rock may be just fine now.>>
I have reviewed most of the articles available on your regarding tank cycling
and live rock but I am having trouble piecing it all together for my
situation. Thanks again for doing what you do. You have been there every step
of the way. Andy
<<Every circumstance is different, so the posted articles don't always have all
of the answers. That is why we are here! Best Regards. AdamC.>>
Live Rock Cycling part 2 5/15/06
Thanks AdamC!! I have been doing 100% water changes every 2-3 days.
<<Awesome!>>
I have been scrubbing the rock during most of the water changes. Many of the
pieces do not have that odor. On some of the pieces it is evident and I cannot
see any decaying matter, but I expect it is "inside" the rock where I can't get
to. Nevertheless, I will keep curing until I cannot detect the decaying odor on
any of the rock. I have been patient for this long, what's another few
weeks? Thanks again for your help, this clears things up!
<<Glad to help. I am guessing that you are being overly cautious (which is
better than being cavalier!). Unless the odor is strong, and as long as no
ammonia is present, you can at very least move the rock to the display and get
it aquascaped. After giving it a few days or so to settle down after being
moved, you should be fine to start slowly adding animals. Best
Regards. AdamC.>>
LR Cycling – 4/12/2007
I just got a 12g Nano tank and I added 12lbs of Molokai live rock. I
heard from multiple people that if the rock is already cured that it
might not do a normal cycle spike.
<Theoretically true, but “cured” doesn’t always mean the same thing.
Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrcurefaqs.htm >
So far it’s only been 4 days but nothing really changed.
<Really?>
People from the forums suggested I can already add a cleanup crew
and a fish.
<Hopefully you are not planning to put more than one tiny fish in this
small of a tank.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm is a very nice article
with links above.>
Should I do a PWC and start adding?
<Based on the water parameters listed below, your tank IS cycling, and
you need to have patience and let it finish. Um, ammonia going from
0.25 the first day to 1.5 the next 3 days is a spike!! When it is zero
and the nitrite is zero, then it is cycled. I am not sure why the NO3
is so high so early, unless you brought your water from an established
tank. You will need to do a PWC (or several) to bring this down after
the cycle is finished.>
Will the coralline spread to the front rocks and dead coral?
<Yes. The live rock will seed the other pieces.>
Should I remove the clam?
<No. It will not hurt anything. If it is alive (closing when
disturbed), I would leave it alone. However, you might want to remove
the Aiptasia anemone in picture 3. And more reading material:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/aiptasia/aiptasia.htm>
Thanks, Jarett
<You’re welcome. Cheers, Alex.>
pH = 8.0 all four days <A little low, should come up when cycling is
finished.>
NO2 = 0.3 all four days <Will spike next.>
NH3 = 0.25 first day, 1.5 three next days <Spiking now.>
KH = 10 third and 9 fourth day
NO3= 25 third and fourth day <Starting high.>
<Your subscripts didn’t translate to our font, so I had to assume
subscripts based on your values.> |
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Cycling A SW Tank With Dead "Live Rock" - 01/04/2006
Hey Hey,
<Hello Angelo.>
First off, your site is the BEST on the web for saltwater help and tips!
<Thanks for the kind words.>
I'm new to saltwater tanks. I bought a whole setup from a friend, 55gal, rock,
lights, heater, protein skimmer, 2-powerheads and sump.
<1-2 more powerheads will be a good future purchase.>
Thing is that the "live rock" had been sitting in a big bucket for about a year
in his basement so it's safe to say it is now dead. Now I've read that you can
cycle a tank with just rock (no sand, no inverts, no fish etc.) without any
light (because using light would grow unwanted algae).
<In this situation you're rock won't import the bacteria to jump start the cycle
so I would fill (substrate, rock, Etc.) and run the tank. The cycle will happen
regardless so just give it time. Can toss in some food to start things or if
your friends tank is in good shape (matured, disease/medication free) perhaps he
will allow you a scoop of sand (or a few gallons of "used" from his next water
change perhaps). >
Is this true, that I can cycle a tank with just rock?
<Can cycle a tank with just water.>
I've been told to rinse, rinse and rinse the rock because it's been sitting out
for a long time and scrap off anything that looked biological on the outside of
the rock.
<I wouldn't bother. This stuff can get you started also.>
Now once my tank gets a stable temp of 78, stable SG of 1.020-1.025
<You realize this fluctuation can't be considered stable, right?>
and stable pH of 8.1-8.4,
<Nor can this one.>
can I add the dead "live rock" to start the cycle process?
<Yep, and you don't even have to torture any fish. Good stuff!>
Will the dead rock give off enough ammonia to start the cycle?
<If it does in fact have old life crusted on, it should.>
And at the end of the cycle, what should the Nitrate level be?
<What you're looking for is when the ammonia and nitrite become zero (after
they've peaked).>
Please help.
<Hope I have.>
Any other tips or advice you feel like sharing would be greatly appreciated
<Just the above.>
Angelo
<Josh.>
Tank Start Up
Bob:
<Ben>
Just thinking out loud here, please help.
<Will try>
Trying to wrap my mind around the startup concept of adding live sand in the
DSB's (Tank and Refuge) and a portion of the overall total of live rock that
will eventually enter the aquarium.
What bothers me is that the LS and LR will be sensitive to ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate etc. and in the process of building up a good population of bacteria the
LR and LS will be stressed with some micro and macro organisms dying off.
<Yes>
Why can't I take it real slow and dose the tank with a pharmaceutical grade
ammonia and add bottled bacteria from a reputable vendor.
<You can... and even skip the exogenous ammonia>
In theory I should be able to build a strong bacterial base which would be
augmented with doses of LS and LR once everything is at ZERO or very close to
ZERO. My thinking is that with as few as possible living things going through
the cycle, more will survive and less will be stressed and the introduction of
LR and LS will produce minimal ammonia spikes if any.
Your thoughts?
<Your thinking is correct here... the only "downside" is the added amount of
time to "really" livestocking. Bob Fenner>
Thank You,
Benjamin
New larger aquarium set-up 9/5/05
Greetings Staff. <Hello Dean>
I have a question that I hope you can help me with. <Shoot>
I am in the process of setting up a new 180 gallon marine tank. I have had
it running for about 2 weeks. Originally I filled it with approximately 50 %
seasoned water from another tank and a few cups full of seasoned crushed
coral (substrate) and the balance of water I mixed fresh. I have been
measuring the usual components but have not experienced an ammonia spike.
Will I or should I get a large reading of ammonia or will I need to feed it
further with something? <You need to feed it. Add a couple of hardy fish. You
probably won't experience a spike since the crushed coral you added should have
a good starter culture.>I have about 80 pounds of fully cured live rock on
hold at the LFS and will add about 50 pounds from another tank that I have.
Is it better to add the rock now or should I wait until my new tank has
fully cycled on its own ? <I would add it now and also, no lighting for at least
three weeks, preferably four. We don't want nuisance algae to take hold during
start up.>
Thanks for all of your help. All the members of the crew have been very
helpful to all of us marine enthusiasts and it is very much appreciated. <Thank
you, James (Salty Dog)>
Dean Fowler
Live Rock Cycling
<Hello! Ryan with you>
My tank has been running for just over 2 weeks now and I was told that since I
setup my new Aquarium with Cured Live Rock/Live Sand, it cycles in like 5-10
days. <It may, but it's always better to over-shoot. Give it at
least 3 weeks to stabilize.> ( I have a 29gallon Acrylic tank with a
Corallife
130w (65w white, 65w Actinic), 100w Heater, SeaClone 100 skimmer, Fluval 2 Plus
Underwater Filter, Aquaclear 301 power head, 40lbs Live Rock and 40lbs Live Sand
) I talked to the Store where I bought my stuff to start the tank, and told him
that the Ammonia was at 0.50 as well as my nitrites at 0.50 and he said I should
do a 15% water change. <I'd wait until fully cycled> I said that I thought
you were suppose to wait for the Tank to cycle (4-8weeks) before you did your
first water change. <Yup> He said since I used the cured Live Rock/Live
Sand my tank should have already cycled. I have read that until your
tank cycles you will get above normal ammonia, then above normal nitrite, then
above normal nitrate, then it is cycled. Help me out here, what is
the deal, is my tank cycled and I should start doing weekly 10-20% water
changes. <What are your reading to date?> My Brown algae kicked in around
day 4 and was kind of there for like 3-4 days but is gone now, and the tank is
actually doing well with the exception to this ammonia/nitrite thing. Heck I got
a Dwarf Flame Angel and a Bicolor Pseudo that are doing really well as well as
some snails/cleaner shrimp and 4 hermits with a Sand Sifter Star. <Whoa! Don't
you think you should make sure it's cycled before adding all that livestock? Now
that I get the picture, it seems like you a re-cycling. By adding all
that bio-load in a short period of time, you've maxed out the available
resources for processing waste. You need to be very mindful of your
nitrite and ammonia- they could easily stress your livestock. And be
extra light on feedings until everything pans out.> They are all swimming and
eating well, I take out the extra food they do not eat or miss and am only
feeding them like 1/4 part of a small frozen Mysis Shrimp cube. I was
reading that until a tank is well established you will get these small
Ammonia/Nitrite amounts until the Live Rock/Live Sand Biological environment
gets established.
<Please read>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/feeding.htm
I am new to the Saltwater realm coming from 10 years of freshwater, and have
read a lot of different opinions as well as listened to the opposing two fish
stores I shop at. I think I bought a good starting setup for a Reef
Aquarium and just want to make sure I can get this started well so I can start
putting more Inverts/fish in my system. I know I should wait like 4-6
months before I put Corals in my tank, but I want to get some inverts and fish
established first with a stable system. ( Dwarf Flame Angel Might peck at hard
and soft corals, but they say that only 2 in 10 peck at hard and soft corals. My
wife liked him so I am taking the 80% chance that he will not.)
<You're already pushing things- A Flame Angel in a tight fit in a 29 gallon. The
smaller a tank is, the more likely he is to "sample" your corals. Please
go very slowly, and check out Mr. Fenner's portion of CMA on smaller systems. It
should be very helpful in your new project. Good luck! Ryan>
Thanks,
The Light At The End Of The Tunnel...
HI Guys,
I just wanted to say thanks a lot to Scott F for the good advice and here is an
update as to what is going on in the tank now.
<Glad the response was helpful to you!>
The ammonia levels have dropped quite a bit ( Almost undetectable) I think I
gave some misleading information about how long I have had my tank going. I have
had it for approximately 3-4 years, I had to move (lots of fun, with anemone's
and lots of live rock!) So I had to take it down and then set it up again but
kept 1/4 of the water and had all the original sand and stuff.
<A good technique!>
So it is kind of established, the live rock is covered in algae, green hair and
purple calcareous. I think that it really helped the tank bounce back
from that dosage incident that happened. I was really happy to see the tank
stabilize and I did not lose a single fish.
<Excellent!>
I did lose one Turbo snail who did not acclimatize well to my tank. I can deal
with that with all things considered. The next issue to deal with is getting
that phosphate down and controlling the green algae.
<Another battle- but one that is relatively easily solved with some simple
techniques!>
Thanks again Scott I really appreciate the good advice, you guys help so many
people in this hobby every single day. You should get an award or something.
<Ya know what? Just knowing that we've helped out a fellow hobbyist through a
frustrating situation is a reward in itself!>
Cheers! J*
<Continued success, J. Regards, Scott F.>
Cycling with liverock
I will try to be brief.
<No problem>
I am brand new to this stuff, at least to marine. I have started the
set up
process with used tank and accessories from an individual who upgraded to
larger. I have set up a plenum with "live" sand, at least
that is what the
bags said. About 60 lbs of live sand, 20 lbs of aragonite, and 20 or
so of
"substrate/ gravel". Using the equipment below, I let the
sand settle and
run for two days. Now the fella I bought the equipment from said I
needed
to get something in the water otherwise I would "loose the
sand". On his
suggestion I ran out and got a half dozen damsels and a dozen
hermits. 72
hrs later still all tests are quite good and livestock are hanging in.
Everything I have read suggest I should be cycling with LR right
now. My
question is this, is it ok to put some in (100 lbs), it is supposed
to be
fully cured Fiji. Should I expect a large enough spike to kill the
little
livestock I currently have?
<Any ammonia or nitrite will stress the livestock. It is preferred to add
liverock and cycle the tank with this. If you decide to keep the livestock
use water changes when necessary to control the ammonia and nitrite. Yes, you
can add the rock now. Hope this helps, Don>
What I have;
100 gal tank
two 14000 k MH : on for about four hours/ day
four compact actinic : on for 12 hours
emperor power filter/ BioWheel
three power heads
Berlin HO skimmer
I will be converting to sump after I gather up all the remaining items.
Cycling tank with live rock
>Hello crew, you guys are great!
>>Greetings, Marina here.
>I have couple questions to ask if I may? Getting ready to fire up
my 120 gal tank FOWL. Can I just add 120lbs of cured premium live rock to bare
bottom then add 1" of CaribSea special blend aragonite sand about 2mm to
quickly cycle my tank provided the ammonia and nitrite are 0 with a hint of
nitrate?
>>(Scratching head here..) Are you asking if the sand will
cycle your tank? Or are you asking if you can cycle the tank with the
sand in it? Or are you asking if you can cycle with the live rock in
the tank? Are you adding one inch of sand (1")? Or 2
millimeters (mm)?
>Also I plan on leaving my lights on 3 hours and the rest off to cut down on
algae but gain coralline.
>>I see no need to worry about lighting during the cycling process.
>Should my skimmer be on at this time?
>>Yes.
>Or at what stage should I fire the skimmer?
>>Ok, since I'm not sure what, exactly, you're asking, I'll just jump in
and give my suggestions. First, IF the rock is really cured then yes,
you can go ahead and put it in your tank (assuming you're also positive it
harbors no pests such as Mantis), then add the sand to the desired depth, then
add some raw shrimp to begin a cycle. If the rock is really
well-cured, then it should quickly handle the ammonia and nitrites, and the sand
will become seeded during this process. Since you haven't mentioned
it, I'll suggest you look up information on site about refugiums, deep sand beds
(DSB), and natural nitrate reduction. Good schtuff. Should
you decide to run a 'fuge, then you may decide to not run the skimmer, but
during cycling it's a good idea. I hope this helps, and best of luck! Marina
Live Rock! (7/2/03)
Can I use fully cured live rock to cycle my tank? or do I need to get
partial cured and let the cycle occur? <Fully cured will be just fine it just
speeds up the process.> I have a 120 gal FOWLR tank to start up. and also
when is a good time to start the skimmer?<Right away!> if fully cured rock
start it with substrate early? also will a white full spectrum and a blue
actinic be ok for the live rock? <What kind of bulbs are they, if they are
just SO I would upgrade to VHO or add a couple more bulbs. Cody>
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