Tank plumbing
Greetings Crew!
I am in the process of upgrading my 40 gal tank to a 75 gal (w00t, yes...) and have a couple of (nagging?) questions. I have read, read, and re-read countless articles you have on the WWM archives re drilling the new 75gal acrylic tank.  I have drilled the overflow (2" through put) (center overflow)
<I'd make at least one more.>
but am still undecided (hesitant?) to drill the returns.  The tank itself does not lend to the non-drilling (pump -> t-bar -> over tank output) type of return, so it must be drilled.  Currently I'm thinking of having my Iwaki WMD30RLXT (1" output) branch off to 3/4" t-bar to 4 returns (4 return holes in tank).  I know that 2 of them will be on the outside, and high up (re power outage/siphoning), but the other 2... I *was* thinking of placing them on the same plane and just have them pointed more downwards in the tank for circulation purposes.  Should I maybe consider another approach, what would you do if this were your tank?
Thanks as always,
Craig
<Your approach is a good one... if you wanted to, you could drill just the two holes for two discharges each, tying two each together inside the tank... Bob Fenner>

Overflow Question
Hey crew, I was just reading over the dailies and came upon one titled "Overflow Dilemma", and that's when it happened.  I had an idea.  The person writing the question wanted to drill overflow holes in the backside of his tank.  I was already planning on buying hang-on overflow boxes that use a siphon.  My idea is to use 4 modified Durso Standpipes, as seen on Durso's website for external overflows, going directly through the back of the tank, instead of the overflows.  They would be spaced along the back of the tank at the same level.  I would also use the egg crate "screens" on the standpipes to keep debris out.  Would this work?  I'm thinking it would, if I maybe upsized the sump I'm planning on using?
<Perhaps. Easy to do if you provide some "true unions", perhaps some flexible tubing in your install>
This could save a bunch of money!  Please let me know.
<Does sound like a much better arrangement. Bob Fenner>

Plumbing a 90G tank
WWM Team,
<Hi Mark, Don here today>
First of all, I just want to say thanks for taking the time to respond to people's emails and by doing so building an incredible database of info (you may even want to publish a book of Top 500 FAQ's).  
<'Tis a labor of love!>
Anyhow, I have a 90 gallon tank that I want to drill (I have such a fear of my tank/sump
overflowing that I won't do anything until I feel comfortable with water overflow).  
<Could not agree more, siphon overflows are a disaster waiting to happen>
I live on the 15th floor of a condo building so I don't need upset neighbors!  Anyhow, I am just curious if you happen to know of any places in Manhattan (or close) that would come to my place to drill the tank?  
<No, but you might post the question in our forum at www.wetwebfotos.com/forum>
I plan to talk to my LFS and browse the yellow pages but thought I would throw the question out there in case you know of a reliable person.
Also, I was planning on having 2 or 3 overflow holes drilled even though I only have a 500 GPH pump but I'm planning now for future growth.  Is 2 or 3 enough?  How big should they be?  I'm assuming I can "plug" the ones I don't need at first?   
<I would <<not?>> plumb with anything less than 1.5" pipe. You will have to get the bulkhead you need and then drill to fit than. Something like 2.75" if I remember right. You can make the decision but I would drill at least 3 maybe 4. Better to over design. If necessary, you can plug the drains you don't need.>
Thanks in advance for your time.
<You are welcome, Don>
Mark

Plumbing question (overflow and return)
Hi WWM crew,
<Hi Isaac, Don here today>
I am in the planning stage of my new 180 gal reef system. I am moving to a new house in 2004 so I am starting my design drawings now.
<OK>
I plan to have two overflows where water leaves the main tank, for redundancy. How big of a opening do I need for each overflow?
<Minimum 1.5". I would plan on 4 or 5 across the back>
I also plan to have holes drilled in the back wall of the tank, rather than on the bottom. The overflow will just consist of a bulkhead fitting, with a strainer on top to prevent stray snails from plugging the pipes. No overflow boxes. I think this provides me with the cleanest look without taking any real estate. A crude ASCII drawing is below if you see what I mean (equal-space font recommended, such as Courier):
side view
+-------+
|     A |  v
|     | |  |
|     +----+--+
|       |     |
|       |     |
+-------+    To sump
Where the "A" is the strainer and the "v" is a hole on top of an inverted T for a vent hole. Do you see any issues with this design, in terms of noise, surface skimming or other issues?
<I would put in an overflow box the length of the tank. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm. I would also make sure there is enough room for a Durso Standpipe to eliminate noise. Search with google to find plans for these standpipes.>
Now to my return lines. See following diagram:

side view
+-------+
|       |      v
|      -----+  |
|       |   |  |
|       |   +--+
|       |   |
+-------+  From sump

I plan to tee off a vent hole "v" to the side of my return line to prevent back siphon in case of a power outage. Do you think this will work? Will the return water shoot through this vent hole?
<Oh, yes, you will have a real nice fountain out the top. Do not do this. This is another reason to have an internal box to help control the amount of drainage during power off.>
Thanks in advance. Keep up the great work and contribution to this hobby.
<Thank you, Don>
Isaac

Reef Plumbing - 8/27/03
Anthony, I have absorbed almost all I can on the website, plus all the questions you all have answered so graciously in emails.  I believe I have all the kinks worked and am looking to make sure there aren't any more flies in the soup (I've had a few).  10 months of research and I still don't have all the answers *sigh*  The tank is a 90G glass with a 29G Sump that will house the AquaC EV-240 PS, 2 250W heaters, etc.  I found a diagram that you had posted about reef aquarium hardware and am going to use an internal skimmer box that spans the back of the tank.  It will be plumbed with 4 2" bulkheads that drain into the sump.  
<excellent>
The water will be initially returned by an Iwaki MD70RLT (you talked me into it), but the sump will also be pre-plumbed for another Iwaki (55 or 70).  The second pump will be added 6-9 months after the "above the display tank" (your very convincing)  29G refugium is complete to make sure it has time to mature producing ooooodles of zooplankton before corals are added.
<heehee... it will pay off my friend :) >
The second pump should increase the flow rate to ~2000-2400Gph @ 6ft. Each pump will be split for 3 return lines that will be routed through the canopy and have swiveling 45 degree elbows just below the water's surface (4 corners 1 middle front and 1 middle back).  I had initially thought about just getting an Iwaki MD100RLT, but I like the redundancy.  Comments?  
<agreed... the redundancy is good. Also... see here for a manifold description:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbh2oret.htm >
The only other thing I have a question on is who should I graciously mail the check to? haha.  Thanks once again for everything and I'm sure we'll be talking again. Jeremy
<very welcome my friend... best of luck! Anthony>

Reef Plumbing - 8/28/03
Ok Anthony.   The inevitable has happened.  I have discovered 2 more questions since your last response.  
<all good :) >
How far should the internal skimmer box be below the top of the tank?  
<just low enough for comfort/safe running... likely around or not much more than 1-2" from the top of the tank. The running water level will only be 1/4" or so over that>
I also read your article on the manifold setup u gave me the link to (excellent informative reading).  
<thanks kindly>
When I plumb the tank will there be any problems that you foresee by hooking up both return pumps to the single manifold?
<hmmm... I'm not trilled about it... does complicate matters slightly. If both pumps are plumbed at the same height on the same sump... then OK. Else, it is not recommended>
I also anxiously await the arrival of my copy of "Reef Invertebrates" Once again thanks to you, Bob, and the whole crew for the amazing wealth of knowledge you so kindly share with those of us wishing to increase our understanding in this amazing hobby.
Jeremy
<best regards! Anthony>

- Plumbing Question -
I have a 180g reef ready Oceanic Tank that is going to be a FOWLR, the manufacturer claims that the supplied bulkheads should allow for 1800g/hour flow. <Have owned this tank... 1800 GPH is approximately true.> After reading several FAQs this does not seem realistic, the return bulkheads (2, one in each rear corner) are 3/4" ID and the drains (2, one in each rear corner) are 1" ID. Do you think this is realistic, I would like to attain this 1800g/hour flow. <Keep in mind that a this flow rate will be noisy. Better to get decent turnover - I used an Iwaki 40 [1,200 GPH] and then relied on powerheads in the tank to boost the circulation for the organisms in the tank. Much more quiet this way.> I am looking at using a Dolphin AMP Master 3000 or 4700 which I would reduce to the size of the bulkhead fittings right below the bulkhead. I was also thinking of the possibility of using the teed return manifold and using all 4 bulkhead holes as drains, If you think this is a better idea what size pump would you recommend and what would you recommend for plumbing (tubing size etc.). <I think this would work... could add probably another 500-600 GPH per 3/4" fitting. Keep in mind that you still have to pass water past the slots in the overflow towers which will become a limiting factor. I'm pretty sure the 1,800 GPH rating takes this into account.> I was thinking of running 1.5" pipe to the top of the tank and then reducing it and splitting it into either 1" or 3/4" pipe with 3/4" tees to direct the water. <You could do this or build a manifold that distributes the water at several places along the water line - many options open to you here.>
I know this is a lot and not necessarily coherent but I would appreciate any help you can give me.
Regards,
D'Wayne
<Cheers, J -- >

-180 plumbing query-
I have a 180g reef ready Oceanic Tank that is going to be a FOWLR, the manufacturer claims that the supplied bulkheads should allow for 1800g/hour flow.  After reading several FAQs this does not seem realistic <Actually, it probably is. We run a 180 Oceanic at the shop at around 1500gph and the water levels in the overflows are still very shallow.>, the return bulkheads (2, one in each rear corner) are 3/4" ID and the drains (2, one in each rear corner) are 1" ID.  Do you think this is realistic, I would like to attain this 1800g/hour flow. <I would say so, but install a gate valve on your pump just in case> I am looking at using a Dolphin AMP Master 3000 or 4700 which I would reduce to the size of the bulkhead fittings right below the bulkhead. <Have you checked out the pump curves on these guys? Even after a T and a few elbows, this may end up being too much for the tank to handle.> I was also thinking of the possibility of using the teed return manifold and using all 4 bulkhead holes as drains, If you think this is a better idea what size pump would you recommend and what would you recommend for plumbing (tubing size etc.). <If you really wanted to go wild with the return this would be a viable option, but I'd keep it below the max since who knows how high the water level in the tank will go.> I was thinking of running 1.5" pipe to the top of the tank and then reducing it and splitting it into either 1" or 3/4" pipe with 3/4" tees to direct the water. I know this is a lot and not necessarily coherent but I would appreciate any help you can give me. <No worries, and very coherent! I think the amp master 3000 would be a bit much for this tank. Big dolphin pumps, IMO, are best used on a closed loop that by-passes the overflows. Check around the forums for ideas on intake manifolds as well as return options (sea swirls!!!). I would pick a good sized return pump that wouldn't go over 1500-1800 gph after you have taken into account all the head pressure (elbows, t's, height, etc). I hope this helps! -Kevin>
Regards,
D'Wayne

Plumbing Dilemma...
I just acquired a 70 gallon reef ready tank . its got 3 holes on the bottom of the tank  and 2 on one of the ends about 2/3 to 3/4 the way up. I have two canister filters and I'm not sure how to plumb this set up. As of right now I'm not sure if I'm going fresh or salt but I've got to get this plumbing thing figured out.
<The fun part...LOL>
Should the return lines be on the bottom of the tank with check valves in case power out age?
<Frankly, check valves scare the hell out of me! They are vulnerable to failure...at the most unfortunate times... I'd prefer something above the water line, like Sea Swirls, which have the added benefit of oscillating water flow...Neat stuff...>
And the line feeding into the pumps be the ones on the side? I just can't find any info out for this kind of tank.
<Well, there are about as many approaches to tank plumbing as there are hobbyists...No real right or wrong answers...Just do what works or you, and remains reliable and functional...>
I'd really appreciate your help  , and maybe I'm way off , any suggestions ?
<As above...check out Sea Swirls for returns...>
I'm lost. Thanks. Sean McConnell
<Well, Sean-there are lots of approaches here...you can look into plumbing on the WWM site...lots of good information here- check it out! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Plumbing question
Hi,
    I have a small problem and I came across your site.  I can't trust my  local pet store I feel they are lying to me and ripping me off.  I have a 90  gallon reef ready tank and an Amiracle SL wet/dry filter.  I have had it in  storage for a couple of years, and I've seemed to have forgotten how to connect the  filter to the tank.  The pet store is telling me I am missing a part and will  need to purchase a $70 replacement kit.  Knowing that I only need ONE part they are encouraging me to buy the whole kit.  The worst part is I'm not sure  what part I'm missing so I can't order the part through the Doctor's Foster &  Smith catalog.  They are telling me that the part I'm missing connects the white  flex hose to the male end PVC pipe that comes out from the bottom of the tank.
ANY help you can give me will be so appreciated.
< hi, it is kind of hard to understand what you mean with out a picture, on the bottom of your tank you should have 2 bulkheads (they are black and go through the hole in the bottom of your tank. Out of this bulkhead you said you have a piece of pipe. If it is an All glass or oceanic tank it will be 1"pipe)to connect your hose to the pvc pipe you will need a coupling they sell them at home depot in the plumbing section. you do not need to buy the whole kit .take the pieces to the store with you and they can help you. Later MikeH>
thank you in advance

- Plumbing the Overflow in a Small Tank -
To the experts, Please help I'm going nuts! I have searched the web site for hours and cannot resolve my plumbing problem. These are the basics. 30 gallon tank with a 10 gallon sump. DIY overflow (2 lees breeder boxes) 3/4 U pipe and 3/4 bulkhead fitting. 3/4 tubing down to sump. Return back to the tank is as follows: Mag 5 pump to 1/2 in. tubing to a Y fitting to 1/2 in. tubing to 1/2 in. 90's with Line lock fittings ending in the main tank. Now to the problem. I can't run the Mag 5 full open unless I remove the Durso stand pipe I've installed in the over flow. I have made 3 designs with the same results. All are design's from Mr. Durso's web site. All are based on 1 pipe size larger than the bulkhead, meaning they are constructed out of 1 in. pipe tee's, 90's etc. . I even made the straight 1 with out the Tee. All with the same results. Also can you help me out with flow rates with a 3/4 bulkhead and a 1in. bulkhead in my situation? <Hmm... think you are suffering from a couple of issues - first, I'm pretty sure the outlet of that pump is 1/2" which means that you are not restricting the pump when you use 1/2" plumbing which in turn means that the pump will perform at the rated flow. So onto the bulkhead - I think the maximum flow rate for a 3/4" bulkhead is 1,000 GPH, but not sure what the standpipe would do to change that - you might want to experiment by taking off the top of the Durso, so you just have a straight pipe, see how that runs with the pump wide open and then add the parts one by one until you find the limiting factor.> All help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks from a big fan.
<Cheers, J -- >

Plumbing Questions
Hello Crew,
<<Hello Michael!>>
I have been reading your Q and A section have found it to be very informative. Thanks for all the good work. I am planning a 300 gallon reef tank and have some questions regarding design/plumbing that I am sure you can answer.
The tank will be a 300 gallon acrylic with two overflow boxes - one in each corner. I am fairly certain that the standard drains are one - 1" in each overflow, which I am certainly not crazy about. <<way undersized>>I was considering having the 1" increased to 2" or adding a second 1" inch in each box. <<at least>> The return pumps will be 2-Little Giant 4mdq's with 3/4" returns. In addition to the standard returns, I was considering adding a one inch return out of the sump split with a "Y" (pump unknown at this point) and hooked to two 1/2" or 3/4" lines <<For <sic> SeaSwirls <SCWDs?> of this size, likely 3/4">>connected to appropriately sized sea swirls. I want to avoid using powerheads so I was considering adding one additional draw off of the sump to hook into a pvc manifold with two outlets (gate valved for control measures). One 1/2" line would be hooked to a spray bar along the back bottom of the tank. The other would be a 3/4" inch or 1" return line that eventually splits at a T Ball Valve electrically controlled by Aquacontroller or similar device. <<Size plumbing to the valve needed>> The T valve would split into two returns - one for each side of the tank (probably returning through the bottom of the overflow box and out the side of the overflow into a centipede splitter) to act as a wavemaker. While I think I have some good ideas, I am not sure if I can draw all of these lines out of the sump or how to size the returns, predict noise levels, which line to run through the skimmer, chiller etc. Should I bag drawing the additional lines out of the sump and use a typical closed loop system. If so, what size lines should I use out of the back of the tank, where should they be located, what pumps would you recommend, etc...??? I want to nail down the plumbing ideas so I can have the holes pre-drilled etc. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Michael
<<Wow! Lots of goodies! Your turn over (10x tank volume minimum, can be more) is the base figure. It appears you need to size the returns to a minimum 3000 gallons per hour. To get a good idea of the size plumbing and overflows to do this you can see how overflow box manufacturers size their pipe, then go the next larger size. (check out web sites carrying overflows) My own personal experience is to go larger on the overflows and use Durso type overflows for noise reduction. Any vented overflow pipe that draws air from anywhere but the overflow itself will help in reducing flushing sounds which usually come from sucking air with water into the overflow. Flush! Even a small hole will draw enough air and be quiet in comparison to a closed overflow W/O a vent. (Vents work like the roof vents for home plumbing). Then you can size your pumps to provide the needed turnover without fear of limited overflows.
As long as there is enough return flow or a dedicated return you can run as many lines off the sump as you have room for pumps, lines, flow to accommodate. My own choice would be to run the skimmer and chiller on their own line, but they could also be run off a line split off the return and valved for proper flow. To sort this out, start at the needed turnover/flow rates and work backward from there, sizing as needed. You won't regret having larger overflows. 
Don't forget to factor head height in your flow/pump calculations.
With the exception of return lines you intend to split (which require larger pipe to accommodate flow) you can stick with pipe sizes matched to pump outlets. Your closed loop/sea swirls design needs to provide enough flow to the SeaSwirls (they have a minimum flow rate to be useful) Make sure if you do this that they get what they need to run.
Lots of work and plumbing but sounds like a blast! The pumps you site are good, many choices out there. Too many variables to name brands/sizes, they need to be sized in combination with all the other flow schemes. Again, start at needed turnover and work backward from there. Quite the project! Go for it! Craig>> 

Return line from sump
Hi Bob,
I just setup a CPR Overflow (800 GPH) and a CPR Wet/Dry sump on a 50 gal tank. I have it connected to a Mag 9.5(950 GPH). I would like your advice on spray bar design on return line. I would like to drop the two 802 powerheads in the tank and just use the sump pump as water movement. The tank is a fish only, but near future a reef. Should I extend the spray bar from one end to the other with PVC and cut slots in it to dump the water?
Thanks
Jamie
<The PVC idea should work fine, when the tank is converted into a reef you may still need more circulation, it is hard to tell with out the spraybar being set up already. You could cut slots in the PV or drill holes. Check out the links below for more information. Best Regards, Gage
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarfaq3.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm>

Marine plumbing
Here's a drawing of the proposed tank layout.  The overflow box is approx 8 x 8-1/2 deep for a single 1-1/2 drain.  I am targeting about 1500 GPH through this drain (although this may be hard to fine tune since my pump will be in the basement).  Any thoughts as to whether the drain should be 2" rather than 1 1/2"?  
<You won't regret going larger, especially if you decide you want more than 1500 gph later.  Will also help with "sucking" sounds from drawing air.>
The plan contemplates the use of a Stockman standpipe.  (I noticed that R. Gibson asked whether the Stockman was better than the Durso.  Were there any conclusions drawn from his query?)  The 1" returns on each side of the box will be powered by a single pump with an actuated or motorized ball valve.
To me it depends on what fits best. They are both designed to draw air to displace the vacuum which develops at the bulkheads which pulls in air and makes noise.> I like tall vents with end caps drilled with a 1/4" hole.  This draws plenty of air and reduces noise through the drain vent.>
On each side of the tank is a 1" return and 1 1/2" drain which all be plumbed together as a closed loop powered by a single pump with an actuated or motorized ball valve.  I will target about 2000 GPH through this closed loop.
<Better up the size of the plumbing/bulkhead to handle 2000 gph. If 1 1/2" is borderline for 1500 gph, this 1 1/2" bulkhead won't handle it either. I would go 2" myself.>
I have taken to heart your suggestions about have a second circulation loop from the sump, but there doesn't seem to be an obviously good place for the additional returns and drains.
<There never is! Remember, placement of bulkheads just needs to be well below the desired water level, ells and threaded fittings can make the water level adjustable.>
Wishing you a healthy and happy new year.
<Our best wishes to you as well!  Craig>

Re: drilled overflow tanks & flow - FOLLOW UP
So, you don't like overflow boxes. What do you mean?
<The standard ones are generally inadequate for my desired flow rates, they hog up space, they are small and difficult to work inside, etc.>
If you drill to your own specs, don't you still need an overflow box?
<No, but it is helpful. You can merely use an elbow and strained off of the bulkhead and drain from there, but this does not provide for a very thin surface skimming.>
Do you then stick you own overflow, like buying a kit?
<I have built a glass overflow box, similar to Anthony's CAD drawing found here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm There is a PDF or larger GIF file for better viewing.>
Are you referring to dislike of prefab tanks?
<Prefab overflows. They are like anything that is one size fits all.>
And the 1200gph you mention; is that for a single 1" hole?
<I assume so, but am waiting to hear from Ralph for confirmation. -Steven Pro>

Re: drilled overflow tanks & flow
Hey guys/gals and groovy people:
After much research and many questions, (including previous discussion below) I am researching an upgrade from my 55 gallon All-Glass standard tank to a drilled overflow in a 55, 75 or 90 (thanks to an unexpected Christmas Bonus!).
<Congratulation!>
I searched the web and the number of hits is crazy. So a few (hopefully good) questions:
1. Can you please point me in a good direction for tank/stand?
<They are all reasonably good. I will say I don't like overflow boxes. I much prefer to drill the tank to my specifications.>
2. Does a 1" overflow allow for 600 gph?
<A reader, Ralph Gibson, has done some experiments and reported the results to us. I found one reference in my quick search where Ralph reported an All-Glass overflow as being able to handle 1200 gph. Perhaps, Ralph will see this email on the daily page and respond with the specifics, but really we could use him to write an article on his experiments for us to refer others to (hint, hint)!>
Is there a mathematical equation for this?
<There likely is, but I don't know it.>
4. If not, how many overflow holes do I need for the 55, 75, 90 sizes, assuming I want the maximum (20x?) flow for the future?
<A 55 is only going to come with one overflow box. The 75 and 90 may come with two if you specify. These should be ok.>
5. What size holes for the least possible noise?
<The standard is 1" bulkheads in any overflow box.>
Thank you very much.  Without you (and you, and you), I wouldn't be able to advance with so much confidence!
Regards, Rich
<Have a great weekend! -Steven Pro>

Plumbing a 180g AGA Tank
Crew,
<Hi Jeff, Don today>
I'm ready to start plumbing my 180g All-Glass tank (pre-drilled for 1" and .75" bulkheads -2 corner overflows) to my sump but have a few concerns.
<Fire away>
I have searched past FAQs on this site and have read that the AGA corner overflows have the capacity of about 600 gph per overflow. My return pump is a Iwaki MD70RLT, so I may not have quite enough overflow to cut it. Is the "weak link" here the 1" bulkhead or the small slots at the top of the overflow wall?
<The bulkhead>
I have seen that Steven Pro has suggested, in the past, to use the .75" return bulkheads as overflow drains to supplement the 1" drains. If I do this, do you think I would have to cut wider slots in the corner overflows to help supply the addition drain throughput?
<I have no direct experience with this so cannot answer directly. What I would do is wait until you do a live test with fresh water to check the plumbing, leaks etc. At that time you can determine if the overflows give enough volume.>
Also, the sump is up against the opposite side of the same wall that my tank is up against, in another room. If I plumb this with rigid PVC, I am going to need to put two elbows on each drain; One directly below the bulkhead fitting on the tank and one directly above the top of the sump. Do you think these elbows will induce any significant drain restriction.
<Yes, use 45 degree elbows if you can.>
If so, would using a thinner wall pipe, like sched. 26 help improve this, or adapting it to a large pipe, like 1.5"?
<I would use 1.5" for all plumbing. You might want to look into the Durso Standpipe as these corner overflows can be noisy and the Durso Standpipe really helps. Just put Durso Standpipe into your favorite search engine.>
Sorry for all the questions. It is much easier for me to ask experienced folks and get it right the first time than go it alone and screw it up.
<No problem, let us/me know how it goes. Don>
Many Thanks,
Jeff