Salt Mixes    1/25/06
Good morning Bob, <James this morning.>
I was wondering if you had a particular salt mix that you prefer. <I've been using Instant Ocean for 30 years.> The
reason for the question is that I tend to add a lot of supplements to the mix that I am presently using.  I am using the Red Sea salt right now & I am
always low in Mg, <I use SeaChem's Reef Advantage Calcium which contains both strontium and magnesium.> therefore I am always trying to work with the Alk & pH.  I have read about Marine Environment Salt but I wanted to ask the expert first. <There are several good mixes out there.  I'd feel comfortable with SeaChem, Kent, Marine Environment and Tropic Marin. Red Sea is OK, I just don't like the way it mixes up.  James (Salty Dog)>
Cheers from Florida! <And no cheers from crappy Michigan.>
Rick Waibel Jr.

- Mixing Saltwater -
Hey guys! Oh! I forgot I also have a question regarding mixing up saltwater for the first time for my new tank. Can I just use pure ro/di water with the instant ocean sea salt as directed? Or do I need to add something to the ro/di water? <I'd add some buffer - baking soda will work - just to bring the water's pH close to where you need it, before you add the salts. Cheers, J -- >

- Adding Buffers... Preparing New Saltwater -
Was wondering if there might be a link on the site you could direct me to for step by step instructions for making salt water.  I currently have a Kent Maxxima RO/DI 50gpd, and I only mix about 10 gal. at a time.  I was needing to find out the sequence I should follow as far as aerating, adding buffers, salt, etc.  I'm using Seachem Marine Buffer and Kent OsmoPrep before adding the salt, so I wasn't sure about what to do in between. <No worries... get your RO/DI water ready, add buffers, add a powerhead and heater... circulate water for a day or more if you can. Then use.> I figure this question has probably been asked of you before, but I couldn't find anything on the site. <I'm sure it is somewhere too but am feeling too sleepy to look - do the Search Feature button that is on the left margin of all Wet Web Media links.> Any info would be greatly appreciated.  Awesome site, btw.
Thanks.
Jim
<Cheers, J -- >

Sea Salt and Calcium Questions
Anthony, What brand of salt did you use in your coral propagation facility?
<I used to use Instant Ocean primarily. Changes in the company recently have led me back to Tropic Marin with great pleasure>
I know that you don't recommend the long-term use of calcium chloride, <absolutely not... it is a temporary supplement at best> and I understand why, but do you think it is appropriate to use it to set your salt mix to desired levels?
<nope... not needed. The aspiration of an unrealistic high level of calcium presumes the need for all of that calcium and the precarious water chemistry that goes with it. Corals grow as well or better tapping 20ppm calcium off of a safe 400 ppm level as they do off of an unsafe 500 ppm level. Its still more calcium than most systems will ever come close to using/depleting between water changes and/or proper supplementation. This is a common mistake by aquarists (pushing Calcium unnecessarily high>
I have used Instant Ocean and Tropic Marin in the past, which both mix up low in calcium.
<not low mate... stable and safe. It is deliberate. rest assured>
If you have used Instant Ocean in the past, did you add any magnesium supplements to set the salt mix to higher levels?
<nope... large weekly water changes (or replacement of large volumes of water exported with sales from the pools)>
I have also read that you recommend the use of Seachem's Reef Calcium in certain situations.
<just really for boosting coralline algae the first 4-6 months if desired>
Have you had any experience using this product on an aquarium where an ozonizer is employed? If so, is it safe to do so?
<hmmm... good question. I've used so much ozone in the past (still do) that I surely must have. I do not recall any problems with it... but suggest you play it safe and take this one up with the techs at Seachem>
Thank you for your time,
Nick
<best regards! Anthony>

Adding buffer, and ridding algae.
Hi, Hope all is going well for all of you there.  I have several questions please.  First, I have read on your website that when preparing saltwater in a container for water changes the ph buffer should be added before the salt mix.  Why is this?  It seems it should be just the opposite as the buffer is for saltwater. << I don't add buffer to my mixed salt water.  But if I did, I would be like you and add it after mixing the salt mix.  I'm unsure of why someone told you otherwise, they may have a good reason but I haven't heard that before.  Maybe they meant you add the buffer to your freshwater, before you add the freshwater to your tank as top off water.  That I agree with. >> Also, I have read
a couple of articles about people using hydrogen peroxide to treat algae  in freshwater aquariums.  Do you know if this if feasible in saltwater and if so what would be the dosage? << No I wouldn't do that.  First, because I don't think you should be trying to kill algae... it is the greatest!  Plus, if you do have an algal problem, I think there are many "natural" ways to take care of it. >>  What about barley straw extract in
saltwater? << It would be better to describe what kind of algae problems you have, and then let us go from there to think of ideas. >>  Thanks for your help, James
<<  Blundell  >>

Hard Water 9/7/04
I have some updates and more questions.  I decided to leave my tank alone and setup a 10gallon that I had as a spare.  I used fresh water, not RO, mixed the salt, heated and aerated for a days or so.  Tested the water and found the alk to be through the roof at over 15 meg/L.  
<indeed... it underscores how important it is to buffer RO/DI water before salting it... as the manufacturers presume a certain mineral hardness of average tap water among the many users of their products to get the alkalinity needed>
I noticed that the water began to cloud and then everything got coated with a hard white film. I can hardly scrape it off my glass or heater.  I got suspicious and I measured my tanks alk and it was also high at 5 meq/L and PH at 8.1.  So I thought since I'm not using RO water I would try the 10gallon again with RO to see if my water was bunk.  So got RO water, aerated it and added instant ocean salt mix.  Heated it for 4 hour or so to the right temperature and measured the stats.  PH at 8.1 +/- .1 and alk was again over 10 meq/L.  I left it and after 12hrs I got the white coating and white stuff precipitated to the bottom of the tank.
<that's bizarre for having used RO water (demineralized)>
Did I just happen to get a bad batch of Instant Ocean salt?  
<possibly... and easy enough to test for>
I'm not using any additives or buffer so is there another explanation?  
<do you do drugs? Hmmm... just checking>
I think I'm packing it in for a while since I can't find the source of my problem.  
<before you give up from this rather minor problem... would you consider using a different brand of sea salt and/or a different brand of test kit? Anthony>
I appreciate your help guys.  

Supplements and new seawater
Hey Guys. I have a quick question about the old no matter how much ca you add, nothing happens. After reading much in the archives, (still reading) I am going with old dilution solution. My question is should I stop all additions (buffers, Kalk, calcium Marin plus) until things are back in balance. I'm still trying to perfect treating my RO water and think adding buffers to soon (before aeration) or to much may have been the beginning of the problem. Before I just added tons of buffer and calcium to the tank to keep balanced and Kalk made with untreated ro water. Anyway, thanks for all of your time. Mark
<Hi Mark, If your ionic balance is shot, you need to perform water changes and test your water (pH, Calcium, alkalinity, magnesium) to see where you stand. You shouldn't buffer RO/DI water until after adding your salt mix and aerating for at least 12 - 24 hours before testing to see what, if anything, is needed. It is very risky just adding calcium, buffer and Kalk without testing to see how much is actually needed. Be careful, and test first!  Craig>  

New water pH (marine)
Hi,
<Anthony Calfo here in your service while Bob makes his way to the Outback...where the men are men and the sheep are nervous>
I have a question about ph of new salt water.
I am making my new water with Coralife salt mix. the bag says it should make water with a ph of 8.3 of so.
<a minimum pH in my opinion... natural seawater is 8.45 and pH naturally falls fast enough in aquaria>
I am making it using R.O. water (which tests at about 25ppm total dissolved solids -pretty good I'd say)
<agreed but still needs to be aerated and re-mineralized before any marine use else it will waste buffers in salt mix and system water>
after I make the new water, making it as close to 1.023 sg as I can get, I test the ph and I am measuring between 8.0 and 8.1 I use 2 different ph kits and get very similar results. these ph values seem too low to me, any thoughts on what is going on ?
<above... aerate R/O for 12 hours first, then add SeaBuffer (carbonate, borate, bicarbonate) and mix for another few hours before use as evap top off or salt mixing. Yours is low because the raw R/O water has consumed alkalinity>
thanks for all your great articles and info. Brian
<a pleasure...best regards, Anthony>

Buffers
WWM Guys,
I am topping off and doing changes with RO water. Also, I use B-Ionic two-part mix for calcium supplementation and Instant Ocean to keep SG at 1.025, pH is 8.4. How would you recommend I buffer my RO water? I tried using baking soda and it precipitated out when I added Instant Ocean. Why did this occur?
<You added too much buffer. The salt mix has buffering compounds, too, and with what you put in first, the pH got too high and drove the calcium to precipitate out of solution. I prefer to buffer my water after adding the salt. I aerate and heat the water first for a day. The add the salt mix and mix for another day. Lastly, I test the salt water for salinity, pH, and alkalinity and buffer according to the results of my tests. If you wish to buffer before adding the salt, only add enough buffering compounds to bring your raw RO water to a neutral pH.>
I am interested in raising my calcium to 450 from 350 ppm. I have good coralline growth and tolerable slow growth in my SPS/LPS corals. Perhaps I could cut back on the Bionic I use if I buffered my water?
<Perhaps, on use a calcium reactor to really accelerate growth. That is, if you have a large enough tank. I would find it hard to justify the expense if you told me you had a 29 gallon mini-reef. If 75 gallons or more, the money you save on supplements will outweigh the initial cost in a few years.>
What should I use for this?
<I think Seachem products, Marine Buffer and Reef Builder, but there are other fine products. Aquarium Systems SeaBuffer is also nice. -Steven Pro>

Salt Water
Hi Anthony, just making another batch to try to complete the turn over my whole 125g tank. This time I thought I would try your buffer suggestion. I let the R/O water aerate with a power head for two days, added some buffer to bring the DKH up to 7, let that sit for a few hours, then started to add salt. When I was nearing 1.020 I noticed the salt was not clearing as fast a usual (usually takes 3-5 min to clear, as I add in 1 cup at a time) but did not think anything about this and continued to add up to 1.023. The water stayed cloudy for all last night, and this morning it is still not clear but not as bad as before. I also noticed a white precipitate sticking to the sides of my Rubbermaid container that comes off easily when rubbed. 
<excess carbonates>
Have I just precipitated all the good stuff out and now have a bunch of garbage water? 
<nope... but do a ALK test to confirm>
Why did this happen, was a buffer value of 7 too high for the freshwater before adding salt? 
<hard to say but possibly... just because water passes through a RO doesn't mean it is always and forever pure. Do check the quality of the effluent for minerals (another ALK test to see if it is pure or just very low...hence, some minerals still getting through and less buffer needed)>
I used Tropic Marin salt,
<a very fine salt>
my last bit before going to Instant Ocean. 
<my preference>
I also used my last bit of Kent SuperBuffer before opening my new Seachem buffer. Thanks Larry
<best regards, Anthony>

Re: Salt Water
Test done DKH 11, 400 mg/l calcium water tests O.K. so on to changing...thanks for the quick response. 
<ahhh...yes>
BTW I did purchase an ORP meter, and PH from Pinpoint, 
<excellent!>
my old Corning PH pen style meter needed daily  calibration. 
<indeed not built to last...alas>
After beginning changes of 15 gallons of water my ORP was at 235!! Seems like I have been getting lazy over the years, and have been changing less and less water creating more and more pollution... I do love to feed my fish. 
<a common problem for many kind hearted aquarists>
At least after all the water changes I'll be able to monitor better with the Redox meter. (another great suggestion from your book...yes I am reading some on vacation... not just while in the bathroom)
<it is great to hear that not everyone reads my book with their pants around their ankles. A warm and fuzzy moment :)>
Larry
<best regards, Anthony>

Make up water
Hi Anthony, I was testing some more new make up water and found the following. R/O water buffered to DKH 4 after aeration. 
Add salt, wait 24 hours and check Calcium 420 mg/l, DKH 12, temp 78.
<very fine!>
All looks good but I thought I should verify the PH.... it's 8.0? 
<not surprising for new seawater... even more mixing/time will raise pH>
With a new mix I thought I should get at least 8.2.?? Is this O.K. for new water or do I need more Kalk or buffer? 
<just see if regular Kalk doses in the tank get it up high enough (should).
I'm afraid at these levels If I add anything I'll precipitate out the carbonates as I did early this week. Thanks Larry
<good heavens no! they really are nicely in the ballpark already! don't believe all of the SPS reefer hype of max Alk and Ca levels...only serves... not needed for all>

Re: Acronym, Water Change Chemistry
Hello again, I was just reading your web page Q&A's again. Great content. I have a few more Q's for you. What is FOWLR?
<It stands for Fish Only With Live Rock.>
Also, after adding buffer to my RO/DI makeup water to get it to 8.4 or higher do I use this buffered water for my Kalk slurry or do I use fresh RO/DI?
<Aerated water but not buffer for the Kalkwasser.>
To make water changes do I add the salt first and then the buffer or vice versa?
<I prefer to add the salt first, Anthony the other way around. It probably does not matter much either way.>
I've been using tap water for the Kalk doses because my RO/DI is tied up with the buffer and I figured it would be best to ask first. This has brought my PH up to 8.2 but still drops down to 8.02 but I am not giving up. Do I do this daily?
<I does Kalkwasser just about every night.>
I am adding one tablespoon of Kalk powder to a half gallon milk jug and then shaking for 5 minutes, letting sit for about 5 minutes and then sucking up through my protein skimmer inlet to mix well before going into the 60 gallon acrylic sump.
<One tablespoon is an awful lot of Kalkwasser for a 60 gallon tank. I only use about 1/2 teaspoon nightly. Please get calcium and alkalinity test kits, if you do not already have them, to confirm your dosing regimen.>
Thanks again for all of your A's, Jeff Reed
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Re: Water Changes
Bob,
Carried out a "full" test last night - here goes:
PH 8.6 - 9.0 (more like 8.7, 8.8 - use the Dry Tab Wide Range test kit and the color chart only indicates 8.6 then 9.0!)
<Yikes... this is dangerously high...>
Ammonia 0.0 (NH3/NH+4) - Dry Tab Test kit
Nitrite 0.0 (NO-2) - Dry Tab Test kit
Nitrate 20 (NO-3) - Dry Tab Test kit
Phosphate 2.0 (PO-3 4) - Dry Tab Test kit
Specific Gravity 1.022
DKH 14.08 - Salifert Test kit
Alkalinity 5.0248meq/l - Salifert Test kit
Calcium 425ppm - Salifert Test kit
Carry out a 10% water change every 2 weeks - de-ionized water mixed with Instant Ocean salt and Re-Mineral "M" supplement (will now not add this).
<Good idea>
Feed brine shrimp/mix and flakes everyday.
Lights on from 11am - 11pm everyday.
Replace Activated carbon in Fluval 203 every 6 - 8 weeks. 
<I'd do this monthly>
UV in-line with Fluval 203 filter. Fluval 203 also includes some mechanical filtration and polishing mat.
Biological filtration carried out by external Eheim wet & dry filter (2/3rds cleaned in old tank water every 4-6 months depending on test results and fish behaviour).
Protein skimmer - TurboFlotor 1000.
Lighting by 2No 30W fluorescent tubes.
Only require to clean glass lightly once a week and no algae problems to speak of.
Now we have established that the dKH and alkalinity is way over - what is required to reduce this. 
<Hmm, a few possibilities... Time just going by (reductive events in your system will trend it down), adding some live macro-algae, maybe some new live rock...>
I have read a lot about buffering it up, but not down!! 
<Yes, works both ways... "buffer" implies "keeping" a measure about some value... i.e. not allowing it to move/much "up or down".>
Is it a case of "clean" water changes and more regular maintenance?
<Perhaps...>
Is there something I can add/remove in order to help? 
<Difficult/good questions... once again, maybe...>
Would the introduction of a calcium reactor now bring the tank back inline?
<Ah, finally, a definite yes... is this a worthwhile investment for you?>
I know patience is required to avoid any pH shock etc and that this must be done slowly, but any help would be appreciated.
<Well-stated my friend. The changes you describe, obvious caring in your messages bode well for improved conditions here. Bob Fenner, WetWebMedia.com>
Thanks for your help so far, Scott.

Re: Water Changes, supplements...
Bob,
Once again thanks for the clear advice.
<You're welcome>
I have read the web site details on pH and alkalinity and now have a much better understanding of this. Also re-read your Conscientious Marine
Aquarist book on the subject (some similarities there!!).
<Yes... consistency may be the "hob-goblin of little minds" in some fields, aspects of life... the keeping of living things, no>
With respect to the calcium reactor - I have a FO set-up with one hermit crab (who did a terrific job in keeping the tank clean) - all from what I have read is that the calcium reactors are really there for invert/reef set-ups due to the need for essential minerals etc that these types of creatures require. Are you saying that we FO people should also use this equipment as well now (I say now as I have not previously read anywhere stating that this is a required piece of equipment for a FO marine set-up)?
<Yes... all benefit from "good water quality"... high, consistent (here's that word again), pH, biomineral content, alkaline reserve.>
If so I take it it is to replace supplementing completely or has time and investigation experienced the fact that our swimming friends now benefit
from this?
<As a replacement of almost all types, kinds of supplementing... as the three qualities listed above are most all that folks need tend to... but some organisms benefit from Iodide/Iodine, others from periodic addition of sugars (ala this and that "vital" et al. products), many other materials...>
If this is now the "case" I take it that this is a sign of changing times (and more expenditure!!)?
<Actually, much less expenditure... I make the analogy (for this example) with changing car engine oil... Yes, upgrading to a better brand or even just replacing same is an expense... But compared with poor performance otherwise and the specter of replacing your entire engine much more frequently? I'm not a mechanic... what I'm trying to state is that the alternative "supplement madness" is NO CHEAPER in that a few tens of dollars a month over a few years time is more money than purchasing, operating a calcium reactor... And the "SM" is far more unreliable, outright toxic to all... >
I will test for the alkalinity etc tonight and advise tomorrow. 
Thanks again, Scott
<Be discussing my intelligent friend. Bob Fenner>

Salt mix ?
I know you're a busy guy, but I have a question and value your opinions. I have just started a 72 gallon salt tank. I finished filling it yesterday with
RO/DI water from a Kent Maxxima Hi-s 6o gpd unit. I have not added my substrate yet, as I wanted to mix the Instant Ocean in the tank and get the
specific gravity right first. So, I filled it, brought it up to 78 degrees, and started 4 maxi-jet 1200's for circulation. I added Sea Chem Marine Buffer at the direction of a local pet store to reconstitute the RO water. I then added 15 pounds of Instant Ocean. The tank clouded up bad, which I expected, but it has been nearly 14 hours and it is still cloudy. I still need to add another 7 or so pounds yet to get the SG up, but want to know if the
cloudiness will disappear first. Did I do something wrong or is this normal?
Thanks so much for taking the time to help me, Collin Romanick
<Normal, yes, for the order of operation you detail... The Buffer should have been waited on... and blended outside of the tank... or placed in a setting (like a canister, outside power filter between other media or in a Dacron bag...) where it could/would dissolve slowly with water passing by it... But no worries (as you don't have live rock, other life present), "this too will clear"... Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Sea H2O
Bob--I'm thinking now that my brilliant idea on the reason I was having so much trouble with the calcium level may not be related to my RO/DI unit, although it seemed to make sense at the time. I'm thinking now it may have been caused by mixing the Tropic-Marin Bio-Calcium with fresh top-off water. Here's why.
I've been buying RO/DI from the LFS since then. The LFS tested their RO/DI with a FW test kit at the shop and it showed a pH of 5.0 or 5.5. I tested theirs with my pH probe at home, and it showed 9.2! (The pH probe showed my own RO/DI at 9.4.) 
<What? This isn't right... your probe is out of whack...>
So I decided to test with one of my pool test dip strips, to compare results. The results were that my RO/DI water, on those tests, indicated a pH LOWER than the water from the LFS. Hmmmm. So now I have to wonder why I was getting such a reduction in Ca on water change days. I think a conductivity test of my own RO/DI water is in order. . . And I'm also thinking that my Ca reductions may also have been as a result of the Tropic-Marin not dissolving properly. 
<Hmm, doubtful here...>
I can't explain it chemically--all I know is that I would typically do water tests on water change days--which would prompt me to add more bio-calcium. So it's possible the relation is there. It did seem that whenever I added the BioCalcium, it depressed my Ca level. Perhaps adding it too quickly can lead to that result???
<Not unless there are other anomalies...>
In retrospect, I didn't seem to have problems with Ca/alk when I would add the calcium product directly to the tank. Since it seemed to be "burning" my corals, that's when I started trying to add it to the prefilter area, and also to the top-off water. That seems to be when I started having serious Ca problems. . .
Do you have any other ideas? Based on these tests (and my having a conductivity test done), I'm thinking of going back to using my own RO/DI unit. 
<I would... the water should not be not be this low in pH to start with...>
(I'm thinking I'll also have a conductivity test of the LFS water to compare quality of theirs with mine, just to have a point of reference.) With the increased surface area of the new tank, a more open canopy, the MH lighting and an array of fans for cooling, my evaporation rate I'm estimating will be around 3-4 GPD. So my water needs will about double, and water changes will also be doubled in volume. So I'm now incentivized to really find out if my RO/DI unit was the culprit, or if it rather was caused by my supplementation practices. I'd really like to stop having to make those weekly water runs to the LFS.
BTW--I owe you an update--after using the Ca reactor for a couple of months, I've got Ca at 460 and alk at 4.12 meq/L! 
<Ah, this is about right... much better>
I have had to supplement with Kalk periodically to support pH, but I'm hoping the new system features will allow me to avoid the need for that.
Another question on the new system. I added Southdown sand yesterday, and didn't wash it first. :( I've heard from both camps--some say wash, other not to wash. 
<Yikes, definitely needs to be washed...>
Needless to say, the water is like milk, and I spent several hours last night removing the thick foam from the surface. (Next time, I'll definitely wash it first. . .) I've been told it won't clear up until I add the LR. Is that indeed the case?
<No...not necessarily.>
Also, I tested the water params in the new tank tonight to see what I have. Ca was 440. Alk was really high at 7.2 meq/L! I think that's because of all the crud floating around in the water from adding the sand. pH was 7.85. No cycle yet, as all I've added is dry sand--ammonia tested zero, so there apparently was little to no dead organic matter in the sand.
<Yes and yes...>
My LR is arriving tomorrow--are these water params OK to add the LR? Will the pH come up on its own as the cycle starts and it has lights on it?
<Yes and sort of yes... do add more of whatever you trust... to bolster the pH... just baking soda and water changes would be my choice...>
Thanks again for your thoughts. I'm really hoping that I'll be able to see into the new tank again soon. . .
<Gravel vacuum the substrate every chance you get during water changes... good luck. Bob Fenner>

More questions (seawater making)
Hi Bob,
(I'm getting to be a real regular around here)
<Careful, you may end up answering queries...>
A few questions:
1: As I mentioned before, I'm moving. If the house we purchase has copper piping for it's water supply, will the leeching that occurs
contain enough copper to poison the tank for reef animals?
<Generally inconsequential... not much concentration comes through to matter... but this is one of the myriad reasons I strongly suggest pre-mixing and storing synthetic seawater... per the rationale, protocol of the same name on the www.WetWebMedia.com site>
2: I'm going to get a Rubbermaid Brute (tm) for holding my water (thanks
for pointing those out), would a couple of inches of aragonite (sp?) sand in the bottom be a good idea? 
<Mmm, not really... more trouble to pump/move water...>
I was thinking it could help buffer the water and lead to less of a ph shift when adding it.
<Minimally... adding a bit of baking soda, like a teaspoon per ten gallons, would be much better>
3: I'll be living near (roughly 40 miles) from the Oregon coast, would obtaining a few gallons of sea water and using it to inoculate the tank
be a good idea, or should I not bother since the local biome is so different than a tropical reef?
<Not so much the difference in living component of this water, but the issues of potential pests, parasites and pollution would dissuade me from such usage.>
thanks again! Mike
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Seawater stress 
I have a 40 gal. tank and three weeks ago I added three fish and another live rock.. My ph has dropped to 7.8. I use RO water change 15-20 % a
week. I just tested my RO water, without the salt added and the ph is 7.0. Does the salt raise the ph level ??? 
<Yes, it does, and should... in fact you need to add more, another source of alkalinity to sustain your pH, even elevate it. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm>
when I used to test the RO water it was always 8.2....but I had mixed in the salt already. I also use c-balance.
<The RO only has a tiny amount of alkaline reserve... once "used up" at that pH level, the pH drops quickly to the next one of "reserve">
Also, I have had a yellow tang for 6 months and he always seems to get ick...( then goes to the cleaner shrimp ) every time I change water. I
keep the temp. the same as the tank water. why would he seemed to be stressed when he is getting clean water ?
<The "clean water" is too much different than what it has become "accustomed" to. Do study here... get in the habit of pre-making your new seawater... providing enough buffering capacity to keep pH in the 8.2-8.4 range. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
You will know soon, how to easily make-up, store and maintain higher seawater quality. Bob Fenner>
Thanks, Cheryl