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FAQs on Other Brands of Synthetic Seawater
Related Articles: Synthetic or Natural
Seawater,
Saltwater Impressions (Synthetics Review) By Steven Pro,
Specific Gravity, Water Changes/Changing, pH,
Alkalinity,
Marine Alkalinity Related FAQs:
Seawater 1, Seawater 2,
Seawater 3, Seawater 4,
Seawater 5,
Seawater 6, & FAQs on Mixing,
Supplementing, Storing,
Moving, Physical/Chemical
Troubleshooting/Fixing... By Make/Manufacturer:
Natural Seawater. Synthetics: Aquarium
Systems (Instant Ocean, Reef Crystals),
Aquacraft (Marine Environments, BioSea...),
Central Garden (Oceanic), Kent Marine
(SeaSalt), Red Sea (Red Sea Salt, Coral
Pro Salt), SeaChem Marine (Marine
Salt, Reef Salt), Energy Savers
(Coralife), Tropic Marin,
Other Brands... About Buying Pre-mixed
Seawater, About Synthetics
Manufacturers Advertising Claims...
Spg 1,
Treating Tapwater For Marine Aquarium Use,
Reverse Osmosis Filtration |
Marine Environments (Crystal Seas) Hw (Marine Mix) Sera
Natures Ocean (Nutri-Sea Water) |
Coral Reef Salt by TJK Marine 11/12/08 I was unable to
locate any info on Coral Reef Salt by TJK Marine Research, Sunnyvale, CA
. <I can't either.> It is used by a local aquarium maintenance
company. Before placing in my tanks, I wanted to check with you and see
if it is better than Instant Ocean, Coral life or Red Sea, the only
other salts available in my area. <I don't really know, but most the
commercial mixes really do about the same thing. Voodoo you hear aside,
just test the water after mixing. The results will tell you if you want
to use it or not. The trace elements many salts claim make them special
are actually in all salts, extra junk left in the stuff in minute
amounts.> I have a 75g FOWLR and a 12g Nano with fish and corals.
More worried about the corals in the nano being affected by inferior
product. Thanks for your help and the vast amount of info you
provide. Sid <Welcome, Scott V.>
Tunze reef excel salt mix 10/4/08 All, <Matt>
Just wanted to tell you what a great site you have. I only have one
question that regards synthetic salt mixes, well only one brand. I see
that Tunze is now manufacturing a lab quality synthetic mix. They call
it "Tunze reef excel". Their claim is that the composition is based on
the latest international marine biological findings as well as analyses,
and that it contains traces and bio elements in quantities which are
identical to those in natural sea water and that it is a further
development of hw brand sea salt. Do you have any experience with this
salt mix <I do not, but have "heard" only good about it> and
would you recommend it. I am a big user of Tropic Marin <I as well>
and have used it for over three years with good results, but I am always
looking for something better for my fish and corals. Regards Matt
<Well... in general I'm an old "fuddy duddy" re changing anything for
changes sake... "If it isn't broke...", but up to you. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tunze reef excel salt mix 10/6/08 Mr. Fenner,
<Matt> Thanks for your expert advice, I love your site and read it
everyday. The reason I was asking about reef excel is that I am getting
a little older <Heeee! I'm getting a lot older!> and do not like
the ideal of having to clean the glass on a daily base due to the green
film algae that I seem to always have with the Tropic Marin salt. I just
want to set back and enjoy all my hard work that has gone into my reef
set-ups. So if you or know of a good salt mix that compares to Tropic
Marin but does not have the film algae issues please let me know.
<Don't think it/this is the salt here... likely "just" "recycled"
nutrients from foods. I'd take other avenues... bioaccumulation,
transport... maybe assiduous use of chemical filtrant/s> I have used
IO and s few other salt mixes but seem to always go back to Tropic
Marin. <Is a mighty fine, consistent product> I currently have a
90 gallon soft and mushroom coral set up. My other set-up is a 125
gallon LPS/SPS with two Tridacna clams. The 90 gallon unit has two
Sunlight Tek T5 (HO) light fixtures each with 4 x 54 watt Giesemann T5
(HO) lamps. The 125 gallon has two Giesemann Reflexx light fixtures,
each with 4 x 54 watt lamps. I use Giesemann Powerchrome "Aquablue,
midday and one pure actinic lamp in each set-up. <Good fixtures>
With this set up I have had orange tube coral (Tubastrea aurea)
reproduce into separate colonies in my LPS/SPS set up. I do a 25% water
change every Sunday in both set-ups and do not add any additives to the
tanks. <Good for you> In fact my corals grow so fast in both
set-ups that I have to sell frags back to my LFS. There is so much stuff
on the internet these days, some of it true and some of it so very
untrue, that one really should seek the advice of a true expert like
yourself or the WWM crew before they just decide one day that they want
to have a marine set-up and go out and jump into the hobby. By the way
in my 125 gallon set up which I have had up and running for five years
now, I Have the following list of fish: One (1) Copperband butterfly
(I have had it for 3 years) One (1) Blue and Yellow Hippo Tang (I
have had it for 2 years) One (1) Sailfin Tang Desjardini (I have had
it for 3 years) One (1) Yellowstripe Maroon Clownfish (I have had it
for 4-1/2 years) One (1) Court Jester Goby (I have had it for 2
years) One (1) Green Mandarin (I have had it for 4 years) One (1)
Flameback (African) Angelfish (I have had it for 3-1/2 years) One (1)
Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse (I have had it for 4-1/2 years) One (1)
Scott's Fairy Wrasse (I have had for 1 year) In the 90 gallon set-up
I have the following fish: One (1) Purple tank (I have it for 1 year)
One (1) Spotted Mandarin (I have had it for 1-1/2 years) One (1)
Clarkii Clownfish (I have had it for 1 year) One (1) McCosker's
Flasher Wrasse (I have had it for 2 years) My feed all my fish the
following: H20 life frozen fish food, H20 life Aquarium Seaweed, New
life Spectrum pellet fish food, Ocean Nutrition pellet fish food and
Nutramar or reef nutrition live Copepods. Thanks For all your hard
work. Matt <Ahh, thank you for sharing input re your success. Bob
Fenner> Bad batch of
salt burning my corals? Oceanic 6/27/08 I have a
question about some oceanic salt i purchased which happened to coincide
with a sharp downturn in my corals, snails, and starfishes' health.
<Okay> I didn't notice the problem until the 3rd water change I did,
which by that time the corals were already distressed. I put 12 scoops
of salt in my water change tank, then added the water, used a power head
to stir up the salt and dissolve it, and I put a heater in to get the
temp up. I used R.O. water, and the salt dissolved almost immediately
like Oceanic does, and it looked fine, I came back about an hour later,
and the water was milky white. In addition to the water being white,
there was a very fine silt settling on the bottom and sides of the tank,
and the powerhead. <Alkaline precipitant.. insoluble calcium
carbonate> How it ended up in my tank was I had previously been using
white buckets, and hadn't noticed the cloudiness, I noticed it a little
when I put the water in, but it seemed to go away really quickly and the
fish in the tank were, and still are seemingly in perfect health, so I
didn't think much of it. I had the water tested and the parameters were
fine according to my LFS, <For future use, I would recommend
purchasing your own testing kits so that you can keep an eye on your
aquarium. LFS testing is usually done with cheap, inaccurate dip strips,
and their view of 'fine' often isn't.> no ammonia, nitrate, nitrite,
calcium was 450, and alkalify was in the 3.75 range. I am thinking that
the silt that seemingly reconstituted after initially dissolving may be
settling on or coming in direct contact with the corals and burning
them. <Most likely not burning them, a precipitate is inert, but
irritating yes. Other things may also be at work here.> My questions
are, any idea what this silt might be? Also, I switched salts, and using
the same water did not have the problem, so I am pretty sure it was the
salt. <I have had only bad experiences with Oceanic salt. You get
what you pay for.> As far as getting rid of this stuff so my corals
and anemone can come back home from the friend who is keeping them for
me, what might you suggest? I am thinking 15% water change each week
till I have the water completely turned over, and in addition to this
lightly targeting the top of my sand, and my rock to get rid of anything
that settled. <Just do a couple big water changes to get rid of any
remaining particulate matter, and you should be fine.> I know it is
still there because my friend gave me a small piece of xenia to use to
see if the water had improved for corals, and it turned white overnight.
<Could be because of lighting, water chemistry, moving, fragging, etc.
Not a single-variable test by any means> My parameters as of now, and
which have been steady are: ammonia 0, ph 8.4, nitrate, 0 creeping up to
5 or so by the day i do water changes, nitrite 0, phosphate 0, calcium
450, alkalinity 3.75. Again, through all this my fish are showing
absolutely no signs of stress, have no visible spots or injuries, aren't
scratching on rocks, and are eating great. Sorry for being so
long-winded, but I have not been able to find any insight into what
might be causing the corals and certain inverts to die like this while
the fish do so well. Btw, I did buy a kit and test for copper too, there
was none. <If things have actually died, I would begin to suspect
things other than just precipitate from alkalinity troubles...metals in
the tank, medications, etc. Otherwise this should just be a problem of
corals irritated by the grit in the water.> Any help would be greatly
appreciated, Chris. <Best of luck. Benjamin>
Salt mix recommendation 8/17/06 Hello crew.
<Hey there, Leslie in for the crew this evening> Without a doubt
this is the best site for information. <Well, thanks so much, glad
you are enjoying it and finding it helpful. > Thanks again for
taking the time to help out this newbie. <Your most welcome. We were
all new at least once.> I have used Oceanic in FOWLR set-ups for the
past 2 years and the pH is consistently around 7.9. I haven't bothered
to pH up the system as all the fish seem happy, but as I try to improve
my system I wanted to switch to a salt mix that can consistently hit
around 8.2 without additional buffering. Could you make a couple of
recommendations so I can find a source that is affordable.
<My favorite is Marine Enterprises-Crystal Sea Marine Aquarium Salt. I
think it is quite reasonably priced. I get it online at Aquarium Supply
Store
http://www.aquariumsupplystore.com/Productspages/marine_enterprises_int.htm
There was a study done on it along with some other popular salt brands.
If you are interested you can read about it here….
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-03/rs/feature/index.php>
Thanks again. <Your most welcome, Leslie> Nutri-SeaWater
HI ! My name is Peter and I have a question about Nutri-SeaWater. What
is your opinion on it is it worth of try. Thank you .Peter! <Peter,
never heard of the product and the only reference I could find was
written in a foreign language. James (Salty Dog)> <<James, Peter,
try this:
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLD,GGLD:2004-27,GGLD:en&q=Nutri%2DSeaWater
RMF>> Re: Nutri-SeaWater Hi James (Salty Dog) it's
Peter again. About Nutri-SeaWater. www.naturesocean.com it is
natural live ocean saltwater. It has all ``planktonic`` natural live
marine bacteria. How do you think is it any good. Thank you for your
time. <Peter, I guess I would weigh it with cost vs. product. I'd have
to believe 50 gallons of it would cost more than a 50 gallon mix of Reef
Crystals. Shipping cost would have to be a killer. Let me know what it
costs. James (Salty Dog)> Peter. Crystal
Seas Salt - 8/17/03 When I started my reef several months ago, I
had no basis for choosing one salt over another, except Ron Shimek's
study, so I ended up using Crystal Sea Bioassay. Everything seems to be
going fine, except I'm concerned by reports of some hobbyists who
reported problems after switching from IO to CS. <with over 10
years experience in the hobby/industry... and one who has long used
commercial quantities of sea salt purchased in 8,000 gall mix skids... I
will tell you that I would not take CS brand for free> I'm hoping
there are legions of satisfied CS users, who, as is human nature, do not
publicize their praise as readily as those who publish their
complaints. <perhaps> Can I continue on with peace of mind or
should I be thinking about switching my salt? <if you are not having
any trouble (common complaints include suffrage of echinoderms and
gastropods, e.g.), my advice is to stick with CS believe it or not. If
its not broke don't fix it, as they say. FWIW - I don't regard CS as a
very reliable product. I use IO because of value and long-standing
consistency/quality. But if you ask me to recommend the highest quality
among popular brands IMO... I'll tell you to buy Tropic Marin. Best
regards, Anthony> Crystal Seas Salt II - 8/17/03
Ouch. That's what I feared you would say. <heehee... and I stand in
a long line if the complaints we have heard over the years is any
indication> Since my tank is still very young and my investment in
livestock is relatively limited, wouldn't I be better making the switch
now, rather than waiting for problems a year from now (after much growth
and more dollars spent)? <oddly enough... perhaps not. Hate to admit
it as I might, you might very well go a lifetime and never have a
problem with it as other folks do. Yet if we add up the complaints heard
per brand and use that as a point of referral, then yes... I would
suggest that you consider switching to IO or Tropic Marin early on>
P.S. what is "suffrage of echinoderms and gastropods"? <my fault...
a common thread in complaints has been starfish and snails in particular
often stunned (and then die after days)... also some complaints with
corals bleaching although I have never had that problem. Of course, the
reason I've never had that problem is because I've never trusted the mix
to be used with them... just on fish and macro-motile inverts <G>>
P.S.S. Based on your writings, can I fairly state that you would not
regard my DSB in the display tank another gaff? <excellent choice in
my opinion... 4 or more inches always. Never less than 3". Best regards,
my friend. Anthony> Crystal Seas Marinemix Dr. Ron is at
it again...heavy metals. <sometimes I'd really like to know what
he's smoking> Now he claims that Crystal Seas Marinemix is the salt
to use. <yes... formerly of "Forty Fathoms" infamy! Change the name
and suddenly it isn't so bad anymore <G>> However some of my friends
have used it and tell me that their corals have undergone substantial
bleaching (after the 30% water change recommended by the dear doctor).
<I have had commercial experience with this salt and from it would not
personally take that product for free nowadays> What is your take on
this subject ? <not surprising from above comments... have chatted
about this at length in the WWM archives and on RC over and over
again... the theory is fundamentally flawed and bunk IMO> Is there
really a major difference in the composition of this salt that would
benefit my tank? I use Tropic Marin and unless I see hard evidence that
it is detrimental to my tank, I want to continue to use it. <Tropic
Marine is tried and true... and one of the finest salts available.
Continue to use it my friend if you want my opinion. Best regards,
Anthony> Salt mixes cloudy... Hi Again I am already
setting up a 150 gallon aquarium. I put 400 pounds of live sand and I am
waiting for a Euro-reef skimmer that I already bought (CS8-2). I am also
waiting for Hamilton lighting 2 Reefsun with metal halide bulb 14000k,
but I am having some problem with the salt I bought here in Colombia,
Crystal sea from Marine Enterprises International. I mixed on Friday
and today Monday 14 is all cloudy. The temperature at the aquarium is
of 72 F. and I have been moving the water with 2 pumps for 4000 LPH
what can I do? I bought this salt because I read an article in
reefkeeping online magazine about the good quality for
invertebrates. Marine Enterprises advertise in their web page that this
salt will clear in minutes I wonder if it is solar minutes Best
Regards, Andres Saravia Colombia, South America <Hi Andres, You don't
mention your source water, if it is filtered with reverse osmosis or DI
and if not, it's hardness and pH. If this is RO/DI water, I would aerate
and heat it for 12-24 hours before adding salt, then continuing mixing
and aerating for an additional 12 hours. If this isn't RO/DI water, then
I would suspect this is a reaction with the hardness mineral content of
the source water. I hope this helps. Craig> Sea Salt
Brands/woes and excess light 5/14/03 Hello, I recently tried the
Crystal Sea salt <by Marine Enterprises International> and have
experienced a major problem in the tank I tried it in. <for what its
worth... I have had experience (a few thousand gallons over a some
years) and I would not presently take this sea salt for free!> The
tank is a 50 g (18 x 18 x36) reef that's been up since about 1994. I
thought I would be safe by doing a 5 gal change with a mix of 75% IO and
25% CS (normally this would have been a 100% IO 5 gal - so the only diff
was the CS). I immediately noticed my pipe organ retracted its polyps
and when they did come out in a day, they were drastically shrunken and
a bright un-natural lime green. A Pavona (3 yrs) that was med. green
over a dKH reddish body turned bright lt green over the whole coral.
Within a week a encrusting short tentacle Goniopora that I have (3 yrs)
had started to turn brighter green. A rock (6 yrs) covered with brown
Zoanthus w/ small dk grn cntrs and green zoos w/ brown fringe - they
were fine for 1 1/2 wks but are now closed and the brown is totally
bleached and the green cntr is lt gr, the other Zoo is now a very lt
green w/ no brwn. Waving hand anthelia faded to a light bwn in a day.
Xenia is fine (2 types). Pink Pocillopora - fine. In about 1 - 1.5 weeks
the following changes happened :Yellow leather - bright yellow (the only
color change that actually looks better than the original color). Teal
blue zoo's that I just got from Trop bleached to a light green. Lime
green Nephthea - fine. Lime green Caulastrea - lighter grn. Caulastrea
w/ green cntr and red-brwn perimeter - red brwn is starting to fade. Bwn
Lobophytum (8 + yrs) is now light tan heading toward white. Green
mushrooms - brighter grn even thought they are partially shaded??? Blue
Indo sponge is fine. 7 yr old pink bubble tip Anemone is fine. 8-9 yr
grn/ wht flower A is also fine. To me it looks like everything affected
is suffering from severe light exposure. Any suggestions - I am cutting
back on the lighting. <do not cut back on lighting unless you know
that was the problem (changed to new lamps, excess photoperiod,
increased intensity, cleaned bulbs or increased water clarity after long
period of neglect). Reason being... The OK corals and the zooxanthellae
left in the struggling ones will be further challenged to feed their
host with the diminished light. Terrible idea. Please keep the
photoperiod the same... never make any sudden changes... and try to feed
the stressed corals a little better to compensate until zooxanthellae
recover> At first I thought I could just wait but after getting back
this weekend, I noticed that the changes are just getting worse. The
pipe organ and bwn /grn zoos are now totally closed and some of the
fading corals are even more faded. Not sure what to do??? The corals
affected are high and low in the tank, lighting is 4 - 95w VHO's that
are over due for a gradual change. I would estimate 2 are 9 months old
and 2 are 14 old. The rock w/ zoos has them on top and down each side.
Its about 9" x 9" x 9". All zoos at all exposures are affected - even
where slightly shaded by algae. Only thing changed was use of CS salt.
<yes... do check the other message boards for similar experiences. You
are not alone> I would appreciate your thoughts. At this point I am
also tempted to do an all IO water change. <not a terrible idea...
but the water change (with either brand) could have just been done a
little inaccurately and caused the stress just the same (harried with
temp or salinity adjustment?)> I was wondering if there is something
in the CS that makes the zooxanthellae more sensitive to light? <many
possibilities here> The reactions all seem to be as if the light
level has drastically changed. <possible if a change of carbon after
a long period of neglect coincided with the water change... or the
cleaning of a very dusty/dirty lamps or lenses> This amount and
timing of the water change is on my normal schedule (actually a little
ahead of schedule). The water removed was not in bad shape i.e. heavily
tinted. I had not used activated carbon before or after but I did add
Kent Tech I right after (maybe 2 days later). <wish you would use
carbon or do larger water changes... but no worries on the Iodine>
Right now my photo period is 15.5 hours. <yikes! that is a very long
photoperiod with any lighting system. I did not guess photoinhibition at
the top of this query... but it sure is possible. 6-10 hours with
halides... 10-14 hours max with fluorescents> Its now been 16 days
and there have not been any losses yet. I was thinking about moving some
of the corals to a different tank. <no way, bubba... too stressful. >
Corals seem willing to eat, so I have been feeding a little heavier.
<excellent> Fish and inverts are fine. Algae is fine. Aquarist is not
fine. Thanx for your time. Tim <best regards, Anthony>
Sea Salt recommendations 5/22/03 Anthony what is the best sea
salt that money can buy . <Japanese money can buy a mix from Tetra
that is hailed as the best in the world, quite expensive... and only
sold in Japan as I understand it. For us, I'd be hard pressed to say
anything other than Tropic Marin. Yet that is not what I use. I have
been quite happy with Instant Ocean and Omega brand sea salts for
getting reliability and the most "bang for your buck". As of late, I'm
inclined to stray towards Omega... may stay there too. Quality, price,
and the fact that they have employed the brilliant chemist and
all-around good guy, Tom Frakes, for consultation [original formulator
of Instant Ocean... a pioneer]> Hope you are well. RGibson
<keeping very busy, my friend... but well :) With hope for you in kind.
Anthony> Using sodium chloride (rock salt) to cycle a marine
aquarium Hi: I am setting up a fish only 300 gal marine
aquarium. I plan to cycle it using ammonium chloride. After the tanks
zeros out I plan on a 100% water change to rid to system of the high
nitrate aftermath. Because the cost of replacing 300 gal of marine water
is expensive. I am wondering if I could use sodium chloride (rock salt)
to cycle the tank? and then replace it with Instant ocean. If this will
not work could please tell me why not! Or is there another inexpensive
way to go, Lobster salt etc. Thank you kindly: Rick Luckert <There
are cheaper lines of salts from a few of the manufacturers (e.g. Instant
Ocean, Marine Environment) if you can find them... but I would just look
for the "200 or 300 gallon buckets on sale" and use the "standard" brand
from your manufacturer of choice. Bob Fenner> Salt (mix)
question Hi Bob, Why do you consider Tropic Marin salt better
than others. <Better, more consistent composition, more ready
dissolution w/o pH anomalies> I'm using red Sea Salt, what do you
think about its composition? <Not a consistent product, particularly
in terms of calcium, alkalinity. Bob Fenner> Thanks Lorenzo
OmegaSea-Salt 7/1/03 Anthony-I got some OmegaSea-Salt from north
coast it rapidly dissolves in minutes just like they say it will and
becomes very clear not like some other sea salt that I used for years.
<indeed... I was surprised myself, and not inclined to switch brands
from something I was previously content with. I do wish them the best
for the future... seems like a fine salt/brand/company> Thank you for
telling me about it. And now you and Bob go out there and sell lots of
books, I hope you will get time to finish the one you have started. Have
a good day. RGibson <best to you too, my friend. Anthony>
Formula ! (salt mix) Hi there. I saw your particulars at the
Wet Web Media Site. Is it possible to get the sea salt formula to
prepare salt at home. I live in Calcutta, India and at times it gets
very difficult to get good quality salt mixes. Getting chemicals is no
problem though. Thank you, Vidul <There are printed works that offer
such formulae. See Stephen Spotte's "Fish and Invertebrate Culture in
Closed Systems", or a university library if interested. By and large
this is not a worthwhile approach... better to just buy a pre-made
synthetic. Bob Fenner>
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