Hippocampus erectus Tank  – 11/17/07
Hello, I am looking to change one of my existing reef tanks into a seahorse tank.
<Okay>
I have already kept dwarf seahorses, so I know the basics of marine fish keeping and seahorses but I do have a few questions and concerns.
-The tank is a 36 gallon bowfront tank.
-It has a Corallife protein skimmer for 65 gallons.
-It has a emperor filter - not sure what model, but it only has one Biowheel, and takes cartridge E.
-It has over 40 lbs of live rock in it now - I am looking to redesign it, by creating 2 pillars on the sides of the tank. I want to create a large bed of various macro algaes in the middle between the 2 pillars. For this re designing, I will need to take out some rock, and return it to my LFS because I will not have enough room, so in the end there will probably be just under 40 lbs of live rock in the tank.
<Mmm, would be great if you could use this rock... in a tied-in refugium elsewhere>
-I am looking to start with either erectus, or reidi. I am leaning towards getting erectus because there are some amazing batches on Seahorse.org, with some very good breeders taking care of them but the species is not set in stone.
<Both good aquarium species... if tank-bred>
Here are my questions and concerns:
?? -Chiller - I most definitely want a chiller, even if I need to lower the tank just a few degrees to get the tank around 72*. But my question on the chiller is, which should I get, a 1/10 hp, or a 1/15 hp?
<Depends on your "draw down"... if the temp. in the room only gets into the mid 80's F., you can likely get away with the smaller unit. The price differential being what it is though, I'd get the 1/10>
The tank is running about 74 right now without a fan, but in summer it can easily get up to 80, so I need a chiller.
<Mmm, not really>
Just which one? Also, what external pumps are good to use for a chiller that requires a 300 - 600 GPH?
<See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the third tray down...>
Have any of you had a Current USA prime chiller - 1/15 or 1/10 before?
<Not I>
Are they good quality?
<I'd ask on the various specialty BB re gear evaluations...>
I have heard of using a canister filter for pushing water through a chiller, it is just that they can be expensive, as can the chiller. I think though, it would have added benefits to my tank be providing more filtration. Do you recommend any of the less pricey, yet efficient canister filters?
<... also posted>
I was looking at the RENA series. Can you make your own canister filter?
<I would not>
?? -Flow - right now I have the protein skimmer, the HOT filter, a maxi jet 900 and a maxi jet 1200. This will most definitely be too much flow for the seahorses I think, especially along the back wall where the maxi jet 1200 is. Should I just stick with the chiller pump, the HOT filter, and the protein skimmer, or should I also utilize a smaller power head?
<I would, yes>
If I do choose to use another powerhead along the back of the tank, which spot should I put it in?
<Along the back, near the bottom>
In the top right corner, pushing the water along the back surface of the tank. The middle back, for pushing the water along the middle of the back of the tank, or at the bottom, to push it along the substrate at the back of the tank? I would like to put it in the place where the seahorses do not swim the most, most likely the top area, but since I have never seen any of the larger seahorses in an aquarium, I am not positive on their swimming habits.
?? -I hope I would never need any, but what would you say are the 3-4 most important medicines to always have on hand?
<None>
?? -Reidi vs. Erectus - which do you think are easier or do you like better?
<Either>
?? -How do you drill rocks, if I want to thread them over a PVC stand to make my pillars? Do you just use a regular drill?
<With a carbide et al. bit, yes>
?? -I think I will only add 2 horses to this setup. I would like to keep the bioload low, and allow the seahorses more room to move around in a smaller setup. Do you think water quality would be much of a problem with only 2 horses, around 40 lbs of live rock, a protein skimmer, a HOT filter, lots of macro algae, and 5 gallon water changes every 2 - 3 weeks?
<I think this will work out fine>
???-A Sump - I would, at all costs, like to avoid using a sump or refugium or something along those lines. It seems much too complicated for me at this point, and plus, I like the space for my supplies under the tank. Do you think my plan can work without without a sump?
<Yes, but would be better... reduce maintenance hugely>
?? -I absolutely do not have enough time, space, or money to raise fry right now. I was thinking of getting 2 seahorses of the same sex. I have heard that same sex seahorse tanks sometimes have lots of sickness and disease due to the seahorses not having a partner or a friend. I would hate to have to kill all the fry from the parents every two weeks, but, I also don't want to raise any. Is there any safe way around this? If I do get a pair of the same sex horses, which would you suggest, 2 males, or 2 females?
<Two females>
Last thing:
??? -I have a bubble wand on the side of the right side of the tank, in order to keep my O2 levels up because I was having pH problems in the past. The pH was always on the low side, while the dKH was fine, or even high due to too much buffer being added in the tank. Now my pH levels are perfect so I would like to keep the bubble wand in there but... I also have the protein skimmer which gives of a few bubbles during regular operation, but a TON after a water change or feeding (at least with the food I feed now). My question is, if I get 2 males, will they flush their pouches still if there are no females in the tank?
<Don't know>
Is there any way for them to get the bubbles lodged in their pouches even if they are not mating or showing off their pouches?
<Mmm, no, not likely>
The bubble wand creates medium - large bubbles, but the ones that escape the protein skimmer are, obviously, very small.
Thank you for your time and advice in advance!
Marc
<To increase your knowledge and enjoyment, I would join in or at least become a regular browser of the couple most prominent seahorse BBs... Their URLs and more can be found by reading here: http://wetwebmedia.com/tube-mfi.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Ignorance included, manual not
Marine Set-Up 10/29/07
<Hi Amber>
I'm attempting the best I can to make sure that I'm aware of what I want to ask exactly before I send this email to you as I clearly read the very angry and obviously Bryna in your search area. Here is my best disguise at having studied your forum for 3 1/2 hours in the middle of the night for my newest hobby and step toward the marine biology degree I wish to get someday...
<Best of luck in your endeavor.>
I bought a 28 gallon tank for my first salt water tank. I'm aware most aqua fiends insist on 55 or above, but as I wish to have a seahorse tank, I've been insisted that it's entirely large enough.
<Yes.>
I read about cycling and felt that while I read plenty on how to do it myself, live rock seemed the most natural and safest way to go, keeping the chemistry mostly out of my incapable hands.
<Live rock is a good method of bio filtration.>
I realize I still have regular testing to do but for the most part, live rock, being natural and all, seemed the best way to go to keep the environment as "natural" as possible for the future inhabitants. I called the "LFS" or for those of us who don't know as I have just learned today...the "Local Fish Store", which was recommended by my father who's been doing his tank for 15 years and more now having visited all the stores and this being the best with the most knowledgeable human inhabitants. As I spoke with the very friendly man on the other side of the phone, he said that there
were many ways to do my tank to keep it natural and affordable, especially for first starting out. Instead of mixing my own water for the first time, he said he could inexpensively sell me premixed water, which I thought was nice, and then I'll make sure to have him teach me how to maintain it myself and mix it as well after this.
<Mmm, no need for the extra expense, very easy to do. Read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/Water_Makeup/makeup_water.htm>
He recommended certain take mates rather than the tang I'd been informed was not aggressive which was then explained to be an aggressive eater.
<Your tank would be much too small for a tang.>
Then, when I mentioned how I wanted live rock aka LR as the one thing I knew I wanted and needed, he recommended little or no LR in order to minimize the expense along with the possibility of getting unwanted creatures who could harm the seahorses I intend to inhabit this tank. He then recommended live sand and base rock.
I didn't know what base rock was and after hours of finding little info online, I finally found a nice site, not yours unfortunately at the time, but rather wikipedia.com which explained how LR came with bacteria and other such things and then when I searched BR it explained it came with none at all. If BR comes with none at all, does that not defeat the purpose of getting it in general? I'm not getting this for my own aesthetic desire, but rather for a true habitat which may be peaceful and enjoyable to its inhabitants. I understand that most people are looking for aesthetics, but I find the seahorses to be the enjoyment, not a rock so much as I can find plenty in other places. Which would you recommend, or would you recommend both LR and BR and in what percentage if you could explain please. I don't intend to have many in habitants, as I read it's not so much the amount of rock but the number of inhabitants in one of your other responses.
<Live rock will contain beneficial bacteria which will develop to the levels required by the bio load in the tank. Base rock is generally dry when you get it and is generally used to build up areas to place live corals and such. It saves money in this regard as it is much cheaper than live rock and in time the base rock will be populated with beneficial organisms.>
That sounded like a true enough answer. Keeping that in mind, I thought I'd let you know what I DESIRE to have. Keep in mind that doesn't mean it will work as I continue to research this more. I desire to acquire 2, at most 3 seahorses of medium size, 2 Mandarin Dragonet as tank mates,
<For these fish, live rock is most essential along with live food supplements in the form of copepods. Do read here.
Mmm, here we go again, our web site not responding, but do search Callionymids on our site. You may be able to get through, and if not, try later.>
and 1 Chocolate Chip Starfish...unless otherwise informed that this is a bad decision and an explanation as to why since these are the only things I've found that consistently go together.
<I'd like to paste a link here on these but cannot display the page. Do search the starfish on our site and read before deciding.>
Also, I would actually get 1 Mandarin Dragonet, but I fear having 1 fish by itself as I don't wish it to get lonely...do you know if it does better in 1 or 2 as some are not happy together and others are unhappy alone.
<Better to go with one, males generally fight in such small quarters and no guarantee you will get a male/female.>
I honestly haven't found much on them other than about how "beautiful they are".
<Yes they are but require proper feeding as above. Very difficult to acclimate them to prepared foods.>
The LFS also said he'd give me a small protein skimmer free since he had an extra, as I asked about them since I HAVE been doing my reading and was noticing how these seahorses are about as messy as my 4 year old while eating. Is a small one a good idea or should I find a larger one in your recommendation.
<If it is free, I'd try it before buying one.>
Also, I have a filter which is 150 gallons per hour aka gph. Do you feel this is sufficient or should I upgrade or even downgrade as I've learned that they need a filter which does its job, but doesn't blow them around.
<Exactly, food needs to come to the seahorses as they aren't very speedy at catching food. Also search our site on seahorses and their care.>
So far from your site I've learned a lot about LR and BR placement, stabilizing and keeping the flow of water. I've read plenty about feeding and I'm ecstatic that I can include my abalone shell as a feeding trough and am happy to learn of the feeding tubes as I'm sure that just saved the carpet of which I felt was likely going to be sacrificed. I've learned that Mysis is enhanced with nutrients, likely to keep from having to starve the seahorses trying to get them to eat krill with their 2 year old like diets and picky behavior. I'm reading up on the importance of monitoring pH levels and how to do so, but was hoping that while my email was likely full of ignorance and simplicity, that you would take pity on a woman with a dream and a goal and help me out or at least point me into the right directions as to links to specific areas.
<Do search "ph and alkalinity">
I've been sifting through your masses of emails, and finding them enjoyable, knowledgeable and humorous all in the same moment. I've utilized your search link 3 times already, that's not including my least 2 days of research or my last couple years with oceanography and marine biology books I read on hobby. I just...find the way you approach things rather easy to understand in its breakdown. I appreciate all your help, even if the email is discarded as I'll just learn to be more specific...or keep my emails a bit more brief. Thank you for your help in advance. ;)
<Amber, keep reading/learning on the animals you want to keep before making the plunge, make sure you can provide what they require and also compatibility issues. I'm sorry I could not paste the links, but having trouble today getting the page content to appear. James (Salty Dog)>
Amber P
P.S. Do you think seahorses won't do as children do when given a choice of go hungry or eat what is given? I ask because if Krill are so much better for them, should I attempt to force it more than enhanced Mysis or keep to what is already known?
<The Mysis is fine, and you may also mix with adult brine shrimp fortified with vitamins. Krill is a little too large for seahorses in my opinion.>

Seahorses/refugiums/flow rates etc., sys.  8/7/07
Hello Crew,
<Jerry>
I've done a lot of reading and have found most of what I've been looking for, but I need your help a couple things. Here's the plan so far. Until I can afford my dream tank, I've decided to set up a 37T glass tank that I have, it's not drilled. I plan on a DSB, live rock and seahorses. This tank does have a small footprint so I plan on stacking up the live rock without taking up to much of the floor space, SH need a little room to roam. I've figured out the lighting and plan on a Remora skimmer. A sump/refugium in the stand is out.
I'm not willing to take the chance of the tank overflowing and by the time you add an extra over flow for backup and the skimmer box for the remora, there just isn't much room around the edge of this tank.
I do plan on buying a HOB refugium from CPR, I have read many times that something was better than nothing. So here is what I couldn't find or just needed more clarification.
<Okay>
1. Have you heard of anyone having trouble with the extra weight on a glass tank from a HOB refugium?
<Not an issue with commercial tanks... the compression strength of glass is sufficient...>
2. Any thoughts on whether I should go with the biggest AquaFuge2 on the back and put the Remora on the side, or CPR does make a AquaFuge2 with a skimmer built in. Does anyone like this all in one set-up?
Or should I stick with the two separate unites?
<Mmm, well, "bigger is better"... and these particular all-in-one units are fine...>
3. There is a lot of talk of the importance of water flow in the tank, but with seahorses, I have read that you don't want to have too much flow.
<Correct>
I've read on Seahorse.org that people have seahorses with live rock but no one address the water flow issue. Do you think the flow from the AquaFuge2 and the Remora will be enough for water circulation?
<I do. You may find that a small submersible pump placed near the bottom will be of benefit though... in keeping "dust, dirt" stirred up for ready removal>
I'm just not sure how to balance the two out.
Thank you for your help and any other suggestion are appreciated,
Jerry
<Sounds like you're well on your way... Bob Fenner>

Can I keep a Seahorse? - 8/1/07
Hello.
<Good Morning, Brenda here!>
I have a 37 gallon tank (I know awkward size)
<Not really.>
I have a Lawnmower Blenny (2 inches) A pair of Ocellaris Clowns (1 inch each) and a Banggai Cardinal fish (1 inch)
I have 10 Blue leg hermits and a few snails.
I have a very small set of star polyps only like 5 or 6, but there population is growing, and one mushroom.
I also have about 15 pounds of live rock and 2 inches of live sand.
<This is not enough rock for a reef tank. It is recommended to have 1 ½ to 2 pounds per gallon.>
All my fish are thriving, living peacefully for about 1 month now.
<Your tank is still new, and likely going through mini cycles.>
My question is could I add a seahorse, of any sort into a tank like this?
<No, a Seahorse should be kept in a species only tank. They are very poor swimmers and can not compete for food. They are also very delicate creatures. Some also have different temperature requirements than the fish that you keep.>
I’ve read up on your sight in numerous different spots but this question was never really asked.
<I have found that the best place to find information regarding seahorses is located here: http://www.seahorse.org/>
Thank you for you time.
Ryan
<You’re welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>

Seahorse hitching post height  7/31/07
I have been doing a bunch of reading on seahorses and their care to prepare for the arrival of my seahorses. In all my reading I seem to remember reading (I should have taken notes!) that hitching posts are best in the lower half of the tank. Is this a correct statement?
<Mmm, yes>
I would love to put some tall decorations in my tank to add height to the decor, but I don't want to set up an unhealthy situation.
Thanks for the help,
Laurie
<Not likely to be a problem wherever these fish/es "hitch up" in captivity... in the wild, most all such material is, of course, attached near the bottom. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Seahorse homicide, hlth, sys  – 07/18/07
<Hey Bill, sorry about the delay in response. Unfortunately life is kicking me in the pants lately.>
I didn't think of that but the only tank that has a heater is the 55 which is the tank I put her in when I was doing the move but the heater barely ever turns on and my other seahorse is always attached it and nothing has happened to him. <I always recommend not having internal heaters or having the heater placed behind something with a seahorse because all it takes is one time for it to turn on while the seahorse is holding on and they are just such tempting things for the ponies to grab onto.>(knock on wood). Can it be something else or do you think she was more sensitive than the other seahorse? <I really believe it turned on and got her. I'm sorry for your loss. But on the bright side that is something that is very correctibly for your tank and the safety of your babies. Good luck, MacL>

Seahorse tank set up/sand sifting gobies   7/17/07
Hi!
I am in the process of setting up a 56 gal. tall tank for seahorses. I am in the cycling stage right now and only have the substrate (CaribSea Arag-Alive Indo-Pacific black ) a protein skimmer and a refugium with live rock on the tank (will add algae end of the week). I also added Turbo Start 900 to help seed the tank and speed up the cycling process.
<The LR will do this...>
After my water is correct I will begin to add copepods to the tank and refugium and then livestock. How long should I wait to add the livestock after the copepods?
<A week, few weeks>
I am planning on adding snails (Cerith and Nassarius) and dwarf blue legged hermits to be a clean up crew, and I would like to add a sand sifting goby to keep the sand nice and clean.
<Mmm, not much surface area here... will likely keep the system "too clean" of the copepods...>
I am not planning on putting any live rock in the tank-just some fake corals to be used as hitching post for the seahorses. What would be the best goby to use and when is the best time to add it to the tank? I like the V. sexguttata
<http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/zoo/fish/gobies/Valenciennea/Vsexguttata.htm>Sixspot
Goby, and V. strigata
<http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/zoo/fish/gobies/Valenciennea/Vstrigata.htm>Yellowheaded
Sleeper Goby, but I am not sure if either of these are the best choice for my tank.
<I would not place a genus Valenciennea goby here... again, too big for the amount of substrate...>
I've read that you should keep a pair (M/F) of both of these species of goby as they do better, how can you tell what sex they are?
<Much happier in pairs... but you don't have enough room>
Thanks for the help. Your site has been a great help to me in the past.
Laurie
<Likely the Hermit, Nassarius species will do about all that can be done to turn, clean the gravel here. Bob Fenner>

Re: seahorse tank set up/sand sifting gobies   7/17/07
I forgot to mention that the skimmer is not running right now. I will turn it on with the addition of livestock.
<Real good. BobF>

Zulu - lulu Seahorses 7/14/07
Hello Bob, Leslie, or anyone else who happens to be taking questions today,
<Mmm, methinks Leslie only looks over on WWM occasionally, so you're unfortunately "stuck" with me for now... I can/will place this missal in her in-folder for later review, response however, as she knows immensely more re this groups husbandry>
I have a few questions? and concerns.......... actually many? about keeping Zulu - lulu seahorses after reading the FAQs here, Pete Giwojna's work here and on seahorse.com, Bob's work here and just Googling them and trying to get as much information as I can because they can be quite an expensive mistake!
<Am out in HI/Kona currently, know Carol and Craig's biz, OceanRider, which produces this variety...>
1) I have another 36 gallon reef tank that is set up with live rock, and live sand that has no major problems. But the pH does seem to drop quite often and quite quickly.
<Mmm, what sort of buffering mechanism do you have/provide? Perhaps the addition of more-more readily soluble substrate here...>
It has had no major negative effects yet on my hardy corals and fish since it was set up in 06 but it could? definitely cause problems in the tank I would like to set up for a pair of Zulu - lulu seahorses, due to it's small size (10 gallons) and the fact that seahorses are a? "tad" bit more sensitive to fluctuations than damsels and clownfish. I was thinking about adding crushed coral to the 10 gallon tank? mixed in? with live sand,? I have heard this helps keep the pH at a more stable level?? Is this a good choice and? does the coral have this? effect on the pH?
<Yes, yes, and yes>
I may even add some to the 36 gallon if it seems to keep the pH up.
2) It is possible for me to get RO/"DI" water from a friend for free instead of buying it from my LFS, although it does seem to have a tid bit of phosphate in it. I do not plan on keeping any corals in my Zulu - lulu tank so that being said, can the seahorses handle that little bit of phosphate, after adding water due to evaporation and after water changes before the granular phosphate remover in my internal filter (the kind that sticks onto the glass completely under the water) is able to take it all out? Or will the constant fluctuation of phosphate stress my ponies?
<Mmm... I would try other methods of phosphate control... macroalgal culture... AND I would buy/install my own RO device... not expensive and much easier (and cheaper) than lugging RO from away>
3) This one is a tough one for me. I read on various sites that Zulu - lulu's prefer lower temperatures, due to them being temperate seahorses, that they cannot stand temps over 75F and they can become very stressed. I read that at seahorse.com, in? a couple of Pete's articles? and FAQs there, and I believe here in a couple of FAQs. But then I read over more FAQs at seahorse.com and it was said that they can stand temps all the way to 77F, that they should be kept at temps ranging from 75F - 77F, and that the higher temperatures seem to bring out their most beautiful and bright colors such as oranges and yellows. Yet the care sheets on seahorse.com says to keep them at temps from 68F - 72F. ?????!!!!!????? What is your opinion? My tank is set up and cycling with live rock, ready to get live sand and a clean up crew and it is about 77-78F now, during the summer. Is this an OK environment for my little ponies?
<Mmm... this is Hippocampus capensis: http://fishbase.org/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=6303&genusname=Hippocampus&speciesname=capensis
a temperate species... the higher the temperature, the more stressful, and shorter these animals life spans will be... I would not allow the temperature to get much higher than those stated>
4) I have also read conflicting opinions on this area also, so Leslie, since you have dealt a lot? with seahorses you could maybe help. I have read that Zulu - lulu's, in their natural habitat locate themselves in areas where freshwater meets saltwater, causing the specific gravity to go down. Different sites, such as seahorse.com say that they should be kept at the normal? specific gravity, around 1.023. As long as the specific gravity remains stable is the number as important?
<Mmm, IMO, yes... I would keep the spg constant as is practical and NSW strength... likely 1.026 with a floating type hydrometer at this temp.>
5) I have heard that hydroids can kill dwarf seahorses and seahorse fry, but are they of much harm to Zulu - lulu's?
<Yes>
6) Pete explains in one of his articles on seahorse.com that if you are not ready, or able to care for Zulu - lulu fry, it is possible to keep them in the tank, give no special care to them, and sometimes the lucky and strong survive while most die off. The ones that do die, if they are left in the tank, wouldn't that create water quality problems? What if one gets wedged between rocks and dies, and you don't know about it, then what?
<Likely a slight rise in organic contamination... but given good care, maintenance, not likely problematical>
7) Is it necessary to adjust the amount of time the tank light is on, to simulate the seasons with seahorses?
<Yes>
I think it is the same with regular fish, it is just more natural, but not completely necessary, am I correct?
<Correct>
FINALLY!!!!!! THE LAST QUESTION
8) I have read just about everything I could find on the Internet about keeping Caulerpa but it just seems to not work for me. I tried one type of Caulerpa, the grape type in my 36 gallon reef tank. All values were 0, pH was as usual on the low side, maybe about 7.8
<This is actually quite low... the pH scale is base 10 logarithmic... akin to the Richter Scale for earthquakes... a small difference in numerical value denotes a large change in chemistry, biological implication/s>
but after about a day and a half of being in my tank, it got all white and slimy and died. I now know that the grape stuff leaches poisons if that happens, right???
<Can, yes>
BAD.? I tried it again but it did not work so I gave up. But in my Zulu - lulu tank, I would like them to have more natural hitching posts than just rocks, and plus it looks nice so I want to give it another shot. If I am able to keep my pH at about 8.2-8.3 (I do not know if that was the reason my other attempts at keeping it were unsuccessful in my 36 gallon), could you tell me which of the following would be more likely to live in my tank with a 15 watt regular fluorescent bulb? Or will they all grow successfully?
? -Caulerpa
??? ~Prolifera
??? ~Taxifolia
? -Hawaiian Ogo
??? ~Gracilaria sp.
? -Chaetomorpha
<I would try the last two first here>
(It is usually used in refugiums right? but I saw pictures of someone hang it on the side of the tank in a little plastic like basket with little holes for the horses to poke around and hunt in. I though that was a creative idea. Like a little in - tank refugium)
If I do keep the tank at a lower specific gravity for the Zulu - lulu's, will the algae still survive, hopefully thrive?
<Hopefully>
AND I have read many articles on trimming Caulerpa, but I have never got the fact that you don't cut it, you pluck it. And not at any strand??
<Yes... this genus, family has some unusual physical properties in the internal make-up of its cellular material... by tearing strands, much "leaking" is reduced...>
You have to find certain ones??? If you could clarify that would be nice. But it may not even grow because I was unsuccessful at freshwater planted tanks, and now saltwater planted tanks.
<Best to buy/use material that is "local", well-established...>
If for any reason you believe my tank is not suitable for Zulu - lulu seahorses, feel free to tell me, and if it is not the best environment for the Zulu - lulu's, is there any other species I can keep in my empty 10 gallon, aside from the dwarf seahorses?
<There are other small species...>
Thank you so very much! I appreciate you reading this huge book of an E - mail! Feel free to give me links, in order to save time,? that will help to guide me to success, and so that you can answer other peoples questions because I am sure I am not the only one in this hobby who has a question or two!! (Many more on the way)
<Oh yes!>
Thanks for all of your help, and you all run a greatly informative site. It is so nice of what you guys do!
Thank you again!
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>

Re: Zulu - lulu Seahorses, sys. fdg., sel.     7/15/07
Dear Bob,
Thank you for responding to my email quickly. I just came up with another question or two.
1) What did you mean when you said this? "I would keep the spg constant as is practical and NSW
strength... likely 1.026 with a floating type hydrometer at this temp". I realize that I may not get a correct reading if I have the hydrometer with the swinging pin because of the temperature, is that what you were partly getting at? I just don't understand the bolded portion.
<Mmm doesn't show up as such on our webmail... Likely the area you're referring to is related to the calibration of such devices. My point is I would NOT keep your spg artificially low, but akin to Natural Seawater strength... which on these hydrometers reads about 1.026... and that such readings do vary by temperature, but that this reading is about where you want to be at this part. temp>
2) I have read about getting rid of hydroids with Panacur. Could you guide me to a place on your site with this solution? Or anywhere else for that matter.
<Mmm, do just try the Search Tool embedded on the site with these terms: Panacur Hydroid Control. There may be little...>
3) Can female seahorses get bubbles caught in their bodies as well, or is it just males with the brood pouch?
<Much less common, but there are some similar complaint/symptoms... Please see OceanRider's archives. PeteG's input here>
4) Can a full grown Zulu eat Hawaiian red shrimp?
<Mmm, I think these may prove to be too large. Mysids would be a better choice>
I am thinking about getting my ponies from Ocean Rider, but they are real expensive...... all seahorses are.
<Mmm, yes... a good deal of time, handling goes into these captive raised animals>
My LFS didn't really know much about this species and it wasn't in the book they had of marine fish!
<See fishbase.org... there are tens of thousands of species likely not in "their book">
I am thinking I will have to buy them from Ocean Rider despite the expensive price, but I hear that seahorses from Ocean Rider are of really good quality and that they will always eat frozen food. A big plus in my book!!
<Ah, yes>
Thank you very much Bob.
<Welcome! BobF>

Hippocampus capensis aka Zulu Lulu Seahorses  7/31/07
Bob did a great job with your query. There are just a couple of things I would like to add and reinforce. 10g is to small for all the usual reasons small tanks are not recommended as well as I believe they need more space. 20 would be good and 30 even better. They seem to be bottom dwellers and love to cruise around along the substrate and IMO a bigger footprint would be better for them. Since they do spend so much time on the substrate a softer finer sandy substrate would be best for them. Anything rough or sharp is not a good idea, because they actually drag their tails and bellies on the substrate. The information about capensis doing well at higher temps and showing prettier colors is dated information. The pretty colors are not worth the risk of their health IMO. Please do not attempt to keep them at 77 to 78 degrees. This is a certain death sentence for them. They are adorable little creatures no matter what color they display. They do not do well at warmer temps it will more than shorten their life span. Everyone I know of including myself who attempted this quite a while ago lost their capensis to tail infections and as a matter of fact some of those people were able to "cure" them for a while by lowering the temps. They are indeed a temperate species and need a chiller. They should be kept in the 66 to 69 degree range. I would not even attempt 72, which is the upper end of the range for them. I hope this helps. Leslie>

Hi Crew, Sump + Seahorse question  7/10/07
Thanks for your support, it's difficult out here!
<Hello Asher>
Ending my month long cycle of a LR & sand in a 55gl , I am also adding my SUMP with protein skimmer, filter sock.
<These steps should be done first. The protein skimmer is an excellent device to help raise oxygen levels and remove dissolved organics from the water column>
I would really like to have a Seahorse tank, I like the fact they are tank bred and peaceful.
wondering if there is any preference to the type of SUMP setup in regards to the seahorses quality of life: Miracle mud? plants? LR? DSB? Berlin? Shrimp?
<Lots to talk about here. Let me try to address them one at a time. Seahorses...There are several species, however a H. kuda would probably do best for you. Seahorses should have tall tanks to breed in but can be housed in shallower tanks for viewing. Seahorses also require frequent feedings and do best being isolated from other species. I personally would set up a 30 gallon tank next to your 55gallon tank and plumb the 30g and 55g to the same sump. You could Tee of from one pump or use 2 Hagen 70 powerheads for flow or the type submersible return pump. Keeping seahorses separately in the 30g would be much better than keeping them in the sump. This set up would afford you up to 80-90gallons of systems water which would be an added benefit.
The sump design is limited by it's size. A larger sump can have more equipment, combined fuge, etc. however a smaller sump may not be possible to combine equipment and refugium. For the sake of conversation will assume a 3 foot long sump. If you have the skimmer mounted in the first chamber of the sump then you can use the rest say 20 inches) of the sump's length for a refugium. (external pump assumed, shorter second chamber if pump is submersible type). You can then add a DSB (Deep Sand Bed) here with some Chaetomorpha Caulerpa and some cerith snails. This would handle the Mud/plants/DSB question. Macro algae in the main tank can prove difficult to remove later if you choose to ever do so. For that reason it is best grown in the refugium area of a sump.
The Berlin system would be a system that uses no substrates, a large protein skimmer, and lots of live rock. Many people now use anywhere from 1 inch of sand (not crushed coral) to several inches of sand as a substrate, protein skimmer, and live rock. I would also recommend this approach rather than a traditional "Berlin" set-up.
Shrimp, hermit crabs, and other invertebrates should do well in this setup.>
Thanks in advance, I just want to create the best biosphere for them...
<your welcome, Rich aka Mr. Firemouth>
Asher
<here is some more reading...
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/livesand.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seahorsecare.htm>

<Hi Rich aka Mr. Firemouth>< Sump+Sea horse question>– 7/10/07
Thanks for the detailed answer, I'm sorry I left my specific details out of original question.
<No problem!>
The main tank is a 55gl high with 100lb rock and about 2-3'' LS.
I have one extra, a 25 gallon long tank, will make it into sump, I bought a mag drive 9.5 and a AquaC urchin (space is tight).
I will run a Y return on both sides of the tank with 2 U loc on each return , one pointed at substrate one at surface. The return is an overflow box, not drilled, with a little power pump to help flow.
I have a power filter working meanwhile on the LR cycle, I wish I had more time to setup sump promptly but working full time as a cook and going to school are also demanding (not to talk about cat and girlfriend).
<I know the feeling of a busy schedule!>
in the sump i planned to have a protein skimmer in first compartment than a deep mud, some live rock, extra crushed coral etc, than pump in last compartment.
<This refugium will work fine and will allow for plenty of copepods and small Mysis shrimps>
I have was wondering if it would work to have a shrimp colony in sump, or other food source for sea horses, and try to feed horses through sump, I would like to keep 4-6 horses in display and maybe a fish that is compatible.
<Having the seahorses in the main display tank will be beautiful! Small gobies and maybe a small cleaner shrimp will be good tank mates. In a mature system a mandarin is also possible but your system is new and pod life will be low. Booster kits are available from places like Seahorse Source and other similar seahorse vendors. It is best to Train the horses to eat frozen Mysis Shrimp so live food will be a treat but not a necessity. Try to wait 30 days before stocking so tank fully cycles and some pods have the chance to reproduce.>
Sorry if not making total sense just got off work...tired...
Gracias, Asher
 

Nano-Reef Stocking    5/15/07 Hey Crew, <Hello.> I have a ten gal. nano with a small yellow clown goby, and four dwarf seahorses. <Too much and wrong type of livestock for this type of tank.> If I were to add a chalk Basslet, would I be over crowding the tank? <Already 'tis my friend.> Also, does the amount of bio-filtration (macroalgae, live rock etc. .) reduce the needed frequency for water changes? <Mmm, not in your case, you'll be needing' at least 20% weekly or bi-weekly on this tank.> I don't really have a problem with water changes, but it just seems a shame to waste more water than I need to. guess I'm in the wrong hobby) :) <Please see our nano articles on the main site.> Thanks! <Welcome.> Amanda <Adam J.>

Re: My opinion regarding a question of 10 gallon tanks and dwarf seahorses  5/15/07 Hi Crew, Someone asked about a 10 gallon with 4 dwarf seahorses and a clown goby and wanted to know about adding a chalk bass. (see below) Aside from the overcrowding there is an issue with seahorses in that they are slow eaters. They should be in their own tank. Dwarfs are fed freshly hatched brineshrimp and that goby will take care of the shrimp long before the horses get started eating. A 10 gallon for 4 dwarfs is too big. You can not get enough food concentrated around the horses to have them eat enough. As far as reducing water changes if you have more live rock etc. You also have to remember that 10 gallons is a small tank to begin with ( I have one) and rock displaces water and so does sand. So effectively you end up with a much smaller volume of water than 10 gallons. So when you try to figure what fits in a 10 gallon you have to take all this into account. Actually water changes is your only chance to make  a 10 gallon work. And if the writer is looking for an easy way out then be aware that dwarfs are the most time consuming of all horses because it is almost impossible to get them to eat anything other than live food. A good source of info about all seahorses and dwarfs in particular is http://seahorse.org. I used to have dwarfs and that site was very useful. <Thank you for this useful input Samuel... Is it getting time for you to be joining the Crew? BobF>

Re: My opinion regarding a question of 10 gallon tanks and dwarf seahorses  5/15/07 <Thank you for this useful input Samuel... Is it getting time for you to be joining the Crew? BobF> Thanks for the offer but really all I have is 4 years with a 10 gallon which is really a very limited experience.  And you would be upset with me if I told you what was in it. But I give you the credit for making it work. And besides, I do not think I could handle seeing some of those ungrateful emails. <This I do understand. Thank you for your ongoing friendship. BobF>

Stocking Density for Dwarf Seahorses 2-16-07
Hi Guys,
<Good morning! You actually have one of the gals here, Leslie at your service this morning.>
I have a question regarding dwarf seahorse. I have six saltwater
tanks. <Wow, you must be pretty busy.>
Four of which are seahorse tanks.  
<They are my favorite sea creatures!>
The smallest is 2 gallons. The largest is 110 gallon. I have just about every seahorse that I can get. My question is.. I have dwarf seahorses in my 2 gallon set up and they are over populating this set up. There are now 51 seahorses in there plus 2 tiny hermit crabs. They keep having babies.
<Yes, they certainly do. You are obviously doing a great job with them.>
The youngest babies are 2 weeks old now.<Congratulations!>
I was going to get a six gallon nano cube for these guys and gals. Would this be an appropriate size for these little guys.
<I think you should go a little bigger.>
I feel a 12 g would be to big for them.
<Actually 12 g would be a perfect size if they were at zero population growth. Since you are doing so well with them it would be safe to assume that they will continue to reproduce so you should probably go a little bigger, perhaps a 15g for a while. >
I still might need to get the 12 g in a years or so. How many pairs per gallon for these little guys?
<2 pairs or 4 individuals per gallon is usually recommended which is a conservative stocking density.>
I bought 4 pairs 2 years ago, and now there are 51 seahorses.
<They are quite prolific little creatures, aren’t they? Their life span in captivity is about 2 to 3 years, so you may be seeing some losses due to old age soon with your population stabilizing a bit. >
Will a nano cube have good water circulation for them? It will not be to much for them, or will it?
<It most likely will be, unless you can control the flow.>
I currently have a sponge filter in with them now, plus a small piece of live rock (1/2 #) and plants. Would I be better off with a regular 5 g aquarium and my sponge filter?
A sponge filter will be just fine but as mentioned above you need more than a 5 gallon for that size herd.>
I think I have done GREAT with this small 2 gallon.
<Yes, you certainly have. >
I heard it is much harder to keep a smaller tank.
<Yes, it most definitely is. Larger tanks are much more stable.>
I have 9 years experience in saltwater and about 7 of those years were devoted to seahorses! Sounds like you are doing a great job.>
If you have not already seen it you might want to consider having a look at Alisa Abbots book The Complete Guide to Dwarf Seahorses in the Aquarium. It is available at Amazon.com>
Please HELP! <I hope I have, Leslie.>

Genus name Caulerpa confusing... like this title. Seahorse tank use   12/31/06
I am wondering if I could impose on you to clarify a seemingly endless argument on the use of Caulerpa prolifera.  Often I read about Caulerpa pros and cons. It seems there are several suggestions that Caulerpa prolifera is great for  a seahorse tank.
<Mmm... remember the ancient Egyptian measure or moderation, "Ma'at"...>
I remember reading that they have a slime that can be problematic to ponies.
<Yes>
I have been setting up a sea horse tank attached to my reef tank.  I have Caulerpa prolifera in my sump and tons and tons of organisms.  Can I use the prolifera in the seahorse tank?
thanks for any info you can offer
Cathy
<I would seek out other algae to use here, OR be careful to keep this species of Caulerpa trimmed back (weekly) to just a few strands. Bob Fenner>

Re: genus name Caulerpa confusing  1/2/07
Sorry
thanks so much but I still do not understand why.  There is lots of room for Caulerpa prolifera of which I have tons and  a small bunch of Chaetomorpha of which I know you prefer.  I use the Caulerpa in refugium.  Should I actually remove the bunch?
<Mmm... well... the genus/family has largely fallen out of favor due to its propensity for rapid growth... and production of allelopathogens... But the species C. prolifera is one of my faves... is less toxic... A Halimeda species would be beautiful/similar... and less noxious... I would just keep the Caulerpa trimmed back myself...>
I would love to read more but can't find the specifics.
thanks for any info you can send.
Cathy
<There's a bunch written about the genus in books... not that much on the Net. Bob Fenner>

Re: genus name Caulerpa confusing   1/3/07
sorry I recently replied and then found this response on Seahorse.org. (pasted it below) Just thought it would help explain my confusion.
I wonder sometimes if people are using the correct species name and I am just checking before my horses come in.
thanks again
Cathy
<Is likely correct, accurate Cathy. Bob Fenner>
Try Caulerpa prolifera, its very popular with the horses, safe can get it from several online sources just be careful to check for unwanted hitchhikers. Pref do a hypersalinity bath before you put it in the tank. All macros will need decent light but don't go crazy, don't need reef lighting. Just try a variety, mostly about what looks good to you. Red feather kelp on a rock from Live Aquaria is also nice looking but not good for hitching. Halimeda is also a good choice, more like a bush very sturdy leaf but sometimes seems to just die out, slow growth.

Juwel Compact Filter Powerhead Pump   11/24/06
Hi Guys,
<Hi Dorian - Tim answering your question today!>
I'm a newbie to the WWM and would like to issue a big thank you for the help and advice you give to all Aquarium hobbyists.
<It is a pleasure - welcome to the hobby!>
I have a Juwel Vision 180 Marin/Reef Aquarium and have a question about water turbulence, for want of a description. I got my reef about a month and a half ago and have awed at it's wonder. Anyway, I have been running and maintaining various devices and tests, and have come across an issue that I would like some professional advice. The powerhead on my Juwel Compact Filter, has been running constantly thus causing a good tidal effect, the anemone loves it but various other fish hide especially the Yellow Tang, Green Chromis and Yellowtail Damsels. The Copperband tries constantly to escape the tank at the opposite end to the powerhead and the Seahorse hangs on the water extraction tube (to pump).
<The seahorse is, in my opinion, inappropriate for this mix of fish. Seahorses require low water flow and time to get to the food as they are very weak/slow swimmers. The seahorse will likely die of starvation as the fish will be much quicker to eat the food you feed. I would return this. <<Also... it will very likely be "blown" into the anemone here and consumed. RMF>> Also, if your tank has been running for only a month since you first set it up, then this is a large number of fish to be adding to an aquarium of that size in such a short time span. Do keep a very close eye on your ammonia and nitrite levels! Are you using proper quarantine procedures?>
Today 24 Nov 06 I fed the fish as normal, turning off the main Pump/Filter and the Powerhead which has an air diffuser attachment to increase Oxygen in the tank.
<I am afraid I do not fully understand - I was of the belief that it is the powerhead in the Compact filters that drives the filter?>
After most of the food had been scoffed, I turned on only the Pump/Filter and forgot to put on the Powerhead. I  have only noticed this now that all Fish seem peaceful with the powerhead off, my Copperband was picking about on the reef very peaceful not trying to perform an escape from the tank, the Yellow Tang comes out of hiding and damsels were all going about their daily business very well. My question is that does the powerhead have to be constantly run or would it still be beneficial to run a timed tidal flow ?
<It is very possible to run your powerhead on a timer, assuming that the powerhead does not run the filter. In fact, this is encouraged in some situations where the powerhead is very powerful, and it is thus possible to reduce overall circulation during the night (e.g. the larger Tunze stream pumps adopt this approach). In your situation, however, I would not expect the powerhead to be a problem. If anything, the powerhead supplied with the standard Juwel aquariums is inadequate for marine purposes where the aquarium houses anything more than a fish-only system. Do have a read through the articles on marine circulation and the brilliantly written article on powerheads found on this site. A quick search will guide you there...>
Thanks again for your great help and if this question has already been asked, I do apologize and what is the link.
Dorian

Re: Juwel Compact Filter Powerhead Pump   11/24/06
Hi Tim and thanks for returning my reply so promptly.
<I do what I can :o)>
First of all the tank is a 5 year mature tank
<I apologize for the misunderstanding - when you said you had the reef for just over a month, I thought you meant it was a new tank...>
I purchased from a friend and is quite stable. Yes the powerhead does provide internal filtration support through nitrate sponges, carbon pads etc. I was always suspicious of the seahorse after reading various articles on fish mixes. I was taking advice off my friend but it is a catch 22 situation, do I listen to my friend or a pro ? Well, I will take your advice as the odds are against my friend (Don't tell him ! Hee Hee).
<Who is this pro you speak of? Surely not me... But seriously, in marine aquaria for every yes you receive in response to a question you can expect a no from someone else. And this is true not only of the blatantly controversial issues, but also what at first might seem like no brainers. Ultimately it comes down to the fact that what works for some fails miserably for others... And so whilst a seahorse may survive long term in your current set up, I think the odds would be against you...>
Anyway, you mentioned that a timed powerhead would be ok but yes it does power the Compact Filter so this would mean that the
compact filter would also be timed, is this acceptable ?
<I would not have the filter running only periodically. Whilst it should not impede the functionality of the carbon or nitrate sponge you use, it will be detrimental to the extent that it may damage the biological filter currently covering your filter media (the bacteria would eventually be starved of oxygen when the pump is not running). Instead, keep both running constantly but if you find that the flow is causing distress amongst your inhabitants, consider redirecting the output flow, perhaps to bounce off of a glass pane, creating a wider and more turbulent flow as it is reflected.>
I have a Eheim canister filter as well, do I really need to use the Compact filters well ?
<Not necessarily. You could just run your nitrate sponge and carbon in the Eheim filter. But to avoid stagnant water in the filter compartment, you would have to remove the whole filter which, speaking from personal experience, is a very tedious task involving a long razor blade and the loss of much needed skin from your finger tips as you try to cut through the black silicone holding the filter. To do this, you would have to empty the tank and the stress on the residents does not seem justified. I would continue using it, especially if the system has been successful for the last five years! As always, I wish you the best of luck!>
Thanks
Dorian