Coral Lighting Question
Coral/Anemone Stocking - 6/16/08
Hello!
<Happy Monday!>
Thanks for the information about my last question. I decided to get Aqualight Pro with 3X150watts MH, actinics and moonlight. Now I'm planning to put 1 anemone only for my pair of true percula. What is the best anemone for them that will not hurt my inverts (1 coral banded shrimp, 3 cleaner shrimp, 5 electric blue hermit, 8 blue hermit, 2 lion snails and 3 turbo snails.
<All anemones have active cnidocysts which will sting protein-based material....corals, shrimps, etc. These creatures will most likely avoid the anemone, but you will always run some risk of injury to them. Corals are most often the victims of a roaming anemone. That said, many have good luck with the bulb-tipped anemone, Entacmaea quadricolor, or a Heteractis spp. I would recommend something in the Entacmaea family, as they are easier to care for and reproduce much more quickly on the reef- and can be purchased from another hobbyist or LFS as a captive-propagated specimen.>
Also please suggest 2 hardy SPS and 4 Soft Corals that will get along with each other.
<Soft corals and SPS really don't mix well, so I can't give you a list of compatibles. That said, with a tank your size you can probably get away with it. I would advise you do some research and decided what you like, whether it is suited to your aquarium and tankmates, and go from there. It's fun to choose your own stocking plan, provided it is a well-researched one.>
Colorful corals will be nice and probably small to medium sizes.
<Coral colors vary within species due to lighting, feeding differences.>
I know that some have compatibility issues so I will leave it to the experts like you guys. :-)
<If you really want to have compatible specimens, decided on either an SPS or soft tank. Although there is some allelopathy between members of these groups, you will have much greater freedom and healthier, more colorful specimens if you choose one group and then only stock its members in your aquarium.>
Aquarium Info:
135 Gallons Tank 72"x18"x24"
125 lbs Live Sand
60 lbs Live Rocks
1 AquaC Remora Pro w/ Rio 1400 Protein Skimmer
2 Fluval FX5
4 Koralia #4
<You may wish to consider a larger skimmer down the road, especially if you have an anemone and corals practicing allelopathic behavior.>
Thank you very much for all the help!
<No problem Ray, it's a pleasure>
Ray
<Benjamin>

Long Tentacle Anemone Vs. Chocolate Chip Sea Star – 05/27/08
<Hello Lindsey, Brenda here. >
I have a sixty gallon tank and the whole bio-ball, protein skimmer filter.
I have live rock and power heads and live sand. I have three long tentacle
anemones, one Chocolate Chip Star Fish,
<Ouch! Anemones and the Chocolate Chip Sea Star cannot live together in peace. The Sea Star will destroy the anemones. I do not recommend the use of powerheads with anemones. >
one Sand Sifting Starfish, Peppermint shrimp, lots of hermit crabs,
<Crabs are opportunistic feeders and can become predators. >
and one Maroon Clown Fish. My tanks levels are all great, as well as the temp in the water.
<I need actual numbers here to be able to help. >
We do water changes on regular basis with RO water. Lately my Chocolate Chip Starfish has lost several of his brown spikes on his back and it looks like
he is being eaten away by something, he is losing pieces of his legs.
<The Chocolate Chip will likely not recover from this. It may be caused from the sting of the Anemone. >
Also my anemones have shriveled up to very small sizes.
<I’m not surprised. >
My Clown Fishes Anemone was great and lately is tiny and is now hanging down almost up-side down from his live rock and looks like he is spitting out some type of white intestine out of his mouth. I cannot get him to eat, it seems like he is not strong enough to hold on to the food long enough to actually eat it. My other anemones are acting the same way but not as bad. What is going on? PLEASE HELP!! I really do not want to lose anything and especially not the anemone that the Clown Fish loves. Can anything be done?
<Remove the Chocolate Chip Sea Star immediately. Please send me a complete list of water parameters including temperature, calcium, alkalinity, pH, Salinity, Ammonia, Nitrates, and Nitrites. I also need to know the age of your system, and a detailed list of all equipment you are using. >
Thanks you for your time. Lindsey
<You’re welcome! Brenda >

Removing an Anemone -5/16/08
Strombus/Columbellid Snail Rapidly Multiplying, Removing a LTA, Mixed Anemone Species, Anemone Stinging Corals
Guys,
<Hi Jim, Brenda here!>
If you could help me with 3 different topics.
<I’ll sure try! >
Ignoring your advice to not keep Anemone's with other corals, I decided my 265 tank could hold an Long Tentacle Anemone. I also decided that when a piece of coral I bought had a bubble tip on in, that it would be fine and they are, but they are also now 12"+ across and have started stinging my corals.
<I’m not surprised. >
I would like to remove them and trade them in. However, my LTA has its foot buried in my DSB. Will removing him be a problem?
<It can be. >
I am not sure how much mixing of the sand can cause and issue.
<In small amounts it shouldn’t be a huge problem. >
The bubble tip is attached to 2 or 3 different pieces of live rock. I am not sure if I can get a nail under the foot as you suggest. Is there another method?
<You can try adjusting flow, in an effort to make the anemone move. Be careful not to blast the anemone. >
Second, I have noticed that small (1/2" or so) pieces of what looks like either Stylophora or a pink Bird’s nest coral have started to grow on 2 different pieces of live rock. Any idea, I have both corals in my tank, but not near these locations. I thought they were coralline or something else at first, but they now have distinct branches and I can see the polyps etc... seemed odd. Do you have ideas how they may have got there?
<My guess is that a small portion of this coral was broken off, and this is were it ended up. >
Lastly, I got a "cleaner pack" that included Strombus Snails from IPSF.
<Also known as the Columbellid. “Strombus” may be a misidentification of this snail. See here: http://www.projectdibs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29&highlight=Strombus+Snail .>
I now have hundreds more every day... at night, it looks like my front glass is covered. The edges of my tank have tons of little ones... can this be bad?
<They can get stuck in undesirable places (see information in link provided above). Other than that, I have never known these snails to cause harm in a reef tank. >
Is there anything I can do?
<Share with friends or possibly even Project Dibs. >
I don't overfeed (IMO) so I figure at some point they will starve?
<They will in the absence of food. >
Just checking. Thanks in advance. Jim
<You’re welcome! Hope this helps! Brenda>

can't we all just get along? -Anemone compatibility (Moving Anemones Into One Aquarium?) 5/13/08
Hi!
Hey there! Scott F. in tonight!.>
I have a few tank-raised questions looking for answers, but first I'll provide a bit of background info:
<Okay...>
29g--mated pair of A. clarkii w/BTA. The Clarkii's have been in this tank with this BTA for approximately 2 1/2 years.
Mates include 1 mature L. debelius, 4 hermit crabs, 4 Turbo snails, 3 Nassarius, and a few (3) soft corals. DSB with 30-40lbs of live rock. 59g--mated pair of A. ocellaris (tank raised with the female in my care for almost 3 years) that have only recently, within the last 2 months, taken to a small BTA. Mates include 2 L. amboinensis, 3 M. sculptus, 1C. potteri (app. 5 months in tank, thus I am assuming acclimation is successful), 1 Blue Chromis, 2 Hawaiian feather dusters, 2 large Turbo snails, 5 hermit crabs (scarlet & blue-legged). This is a tall reef tank with mixed coral, DSB and 60 lbs. plus of live rock. 10g QT--1 ill G. loreto.
<Glad he/she is being treated.>
100g. long--brand spanking new, and empty, TRUVU aquarium with 30g sump/refugium.  Existing equipment, such as protein skimmers, halide lighting, additional filtration and power heads for water flow, was purchased with the intention of upgrading to a 100 gallon.  I have spent the last 4 years reading, then learning how to protect and maintain these miniature marine ecosystems before jumping in 100 gallons over my head.
<With lots of planning and preparation, the odds of getting in over your head diminish substantially!.>
Now I would like to combine the 29g and the 59g into the 100g. I understand that A. clarkii and A. ocellaris will likely not mix, thus
my dilemma.
<And a magnificent one it is!>
To complicate this further, the BTA in the 29g (with the clarkii's) has been in my care as long as the female A. ocellaris
in the 59g--both being purchased at the same time not so much for compatibility with one another but for their relative "hardiness".
Given that it has taken A. ocellaris almost 3 years to interact with an anemone, I am hesitant to disrupt the relationship of all parties
involved.
<I agree wholeheartedly. If you're fortunate enough to have fostered such a relationship, and if the anemone is doing well, I'd be hesitant to disrupt it.>
Do I sell one pair along with their anemone?(the horror!) Or is it even remotely possible that, placed at far ends of the new tank, they
might get along?
<It's always possible, but I cannot recommend it. I would consider moving the BTA to the 59g aquarium, or a larger one, but I wouldn't move it into the same aquarium with the other anemone...too much potential chemical interaction issues.>
I will add I am aware that collecting and moving either pair with their anemone is far less challenging than trying to catch the fish individually.
<Yes, but exercise extreme caution when attempting to move a long-established anemone. Consider the possible trauma that you could cause to the animal by "prying" it up or harshly removing it from its established surroundings. Also, transferring the animal to a newly established aquarium is problematic. Make sure that the new home is completely cycled and well established before moving the anemone. Go very slowly and acclimate the anemone carefully.>
Also I'd like to say that the one aspect of this hobby that I overlooked is the emotional attachment that develops with all occupants of the marine aquarium.
<So true. It's not difficult to develop an emotional attachment to the animals that we keep. This is especially true when you've kept them for years!>
I truly appreciate any advice you can offer!
Jane
<Well, Jane- my best advice is to think this through carefully; consider the pros and potential cons of trying to move the anemones to a new aquarium. Be supremely cautious, patient, and observe the animals carefully. Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.>

Strange Occurrence... Not, Angel, Anemone incomp.  5/6/08
Hi to all at WWM,
First I wanted to say that you guys have the best site on the internet for information. Hands down, a one stop site for reliable info needed regarding marine keeping.
Okay, you guys are going to think I'm crazy when i say this, and if I didn't see it for myself I wouldn't have believed it. Yesterday I paid a visit to my cousin who has a 65 gallon reef tank with a 30 gallon fuge. He has had the tank set up for years as a FOWLR tank and just recently started adding corals to the tank. The only inhabitant that I told him may give him a problem was a lemon peel angelfish since angelfish have been known to go to the dark side and eat coral. He kept his eye on the angel and thus far had been co-existing with the corals in the tank. Now comes the strange part! He recently purchased a BTA for his clownfish and it was a nice sized healthy looking specimen. Was inflated, sticky tentacles, and eating krill. On this visit to his house, while paying close attention to his lemon peel, I noticed something and couldn't believe my eyes. The lemon peel was actively attacking his BTA.
<Mmm, yes... Pomacanthids eat Anemones in the wild...>
The first attack I witnessed I stepped back and asked if anyone else had seen it (I thought I may have been going crazy). The second attack came shortly after and at that point all in the room witnessed it. This lemon peel grew brass ones! He was actually biting at the BTA's tentacles and MOUTH!!
<Yes>
After a few attacks I noticed now the BTA's mouth was gaping as if it had been teared.
<Torn>
I knew this was bad news and told my cousin he should act fast and remove the angel. After moving all the rock out he finally got the angel out and put him into his refugium for the time being.
<Ah, good>
I spoke with him today to get an update on the BTA and it appears it was unable to recover. During a feeding today, while trying to eat, his mouth tore some more from the initial attacks from the Lemon Peel. Unfortunately, the BTA then deflated and was found floating around the tank in the current and was removed.
I have looked ALL over for this type of behavior in lemon peel angelfish and even in angelfish in general.
<Is common knowledge>
The only info I have found is that they can be a danger to coral, clams, and some worms. Have you ever witnessed or heard of this behavior before? What may have triggered this angel to act in such a way? I figured since I couldn't find any information on this that maybe this behavior has not been recorded before and I should let you guys know.
Thanks
Huge Fan of WWM
<Use the term "Angel and Anemone Compatibility" in the WWM search term linked on the left shared border. Read the (highlighted) cached views. Bob Fenner>

Sebae Health, Mixing Species – 4/26/08
Dear Wet Media Crew,
<Hello Nicole, Brenda here!>
Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this.
<You’re welcome!>
I've been exploring your website for the benefit of my bubble time and my brain for a number of months; for about two weeks now, I've been researching Sebae anemones (I was given one by my boyfriend for my saltwater tank). I think I've been incredibly lucky, and am emailing you to make sure I am not wrong. I have a 4 inch anemone that was sold to him as a 'white' Sebae. It came into my tank a light golden-cream color, and after reading the information on your website, I thought I had no chance of keeping it alive, let alone getting it healthy. I have a baby bubble tip in the tank as well, which I've had for about 6 months (about a 1 inch 'clone' from an anemone that split in captivity, very petite, and separated from the Sebae by a sand moat between their pieces of live rock).
<I don’t recommend mixing species of anemones.>
I am emailing you because the Sebae is showing brown patches on the exposed part of its foot, and some of its tentacles are turning a darker almost golden-brown color. From what I've read, this is good.
<It sounds like it is regaining its zooxanthellae.>
He anchored himself of a piece of live rock which I placed with him before releasing him into my tank, and I positioned a powerhead to give strong water flow to his part of the tank (which my baby bubble tip seems to love).
<Powerheads are dangerous with anemones.>
He has released 'poop' particles twice, but has not exhibited the vomiting behavior or the hiding behavior denoted on your site; his mouth opens very slowly to eat (and of course to poop), but is otherwise closed. He responds to physical stimuli, and his tentacles are sticky, but he does not close at night, which I'm worried about.
<This is normal.>
After reading the material cautioning against overfeeding, I have not tried to feed him, but he has caught small particles of clam twice, and eaten them, although it seems to take him significantly longer to move a piece of food to his mouth and eat it than it takes my bubble tip.
<Try feeding pieces no bigger than the mouth, 2 – 3 times a week.>
I've been burning through test chemicals to make sure my water is matches the specs on your site, so far, all is good there. Have I gotten unbelievably lucky for a novice anemone caretaker, or should I be giving this anemone and his piece of live rock to a more experienced keeper?
<I would need to know more information such as the size of the tank, exact water parameters, and equipment to be able to comment. However, I do recommend separating the two anemones.>
The baby bubble tip is the only other anemone I've ever had, and he seems to be thriving; I bought better lighting when I got him in November, and all of my water tests come out well, if occasionally low in calcium (I have a problem with feather dusters spawning in my tank CONSTANTLY- I know that is not really a 'problem', but it gets annoying to keep having to scrub the glass every week to get the new ones off). I'd rather not number one, kill the Sebae, and number 2, risk the rest of my tank by trying something out of my depth. The rest of my tank is comprised of more appropriate aquatic life, a pair of tank-raised clowns. I believe they're Ocellaris; they were sold as 'false percula', and are currently a beautiful orange-shading-to-black: they ignore the Sebae in favor of their favorite piece of live rock, not a surprise there. I also have a damsel and a neon goby, shrimp, stars, a cowry, snails, crabs, and more baby feather dusters every day it seems. It is a very simple tank other than the Sebae, but I'd rather not mess it up since it seems to be doing so well.
<Do you have a protein skimmer?>
Thank you again for taking the time to read this, and for any advice you may have.
Nicole
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Mixing Angelfish with Anemones, Reef Compatibility, 4/9/08
<Hello Brad, Brenda here!>
I first off want to say think you for answering my last question it was very appreciated and helpful.
<You’re welcome!>
I have a Medium Imperator Angel and medium Koran Angel that can’t seem to keep their mouths off my anemones.
<I’m not surprised. These fish are not reef safe. They need to be separated.>
The Imperator was first to start nipping at my green carpet once my clown starting going in it so I finally gave it to a buddy of mine hoping it will live. Then when the clown started going into my rose anemone he started nipping at it. After watching the Imperator the Koran started following suit. Why are they doing it and why are they not being stung?
<It is their nature. It may eventually be stung and eaten by the anemone.>
Before the clown started going into any of my anemones neither even got close to them now that they see the clown inside the tentacles they want to start snacking on it? Any reasoning behind this?
<More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/angelcompafaq.htm >
Thanks for all the help.
Brad
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

LTA attacked by Choc chip star 04/07/2008
Hi,
<<Hello, Andrew here>>
Friday we woke up to find our chocolate chip star hovering over the spot where our LTA was. We removed the star from that spot and could not find the LTA anywhere, not even a trace of it. Needless to say the star went back to my LFS the same day.
<<A wise decision, very predatory>>
I was heartbroken by the loss of our anemone. We have had it for about 8months, and it was about 8 inches in diameter and very healthy. So I bought a new anemone to replace the old one, it is a BTA. When I returned home to acclimate the BTA, to my surprise the LTA was out and alive! I have a 75gallon with a snowflake eel, and volition lion, about 90lbs of live rock, and snails for cleanup crew. The LTA does not appear happy, he will not inflate fully, his tentacles are long and inflated though, appears to have no injuries, has not moved from his spot, however his mouth remains slightly open (which I am aware is not a good sign). He does seem to inflate more as the days go on, but mouth remains open. I placed
the BTA on the opposite side of the tank, where he immediately attached his foot.
My questions are as follows:
1. What precautions should I take when housing two different anemones in the same tank?
<<Plenty of distance between SP.>>
2. What should I do for my LTA?
<<If possible, move to quarantine tank, target feed and monitor closely>>
3. Will the LTA be okay?
<<Given good water parameters, staple diet, lighting, should recover fine>>
4. What should I watch for or be worried about?
<<The main to watch is the distance between these two, else chemical warfare will ensue>>
I did perform a 20% water change yesterday Sat), just to be on the safe side. I use RO/DI water which I mix myself. All of my parameters are perfect. We have had the tank for a year, and it has been very stable for the past 6months. I do have a skimmer, two additional powerheads (which are screened to avoid the anemones being sucked in) and appropriate lighting for anemones.
Thanks in advance for your help! Love your site
Michelle
<<Hope the above helps. If problems do arise between the two nems in the tank, i would suggest removal of the BTA..Personaly, i prefer to only see multiple nems in tanks of 100 gals plus, this gives plenty of room for the two to have "plenty" of space between them>>
<<Thanks and good luck. A Nixon>>

Does my new wrasse have a death wish?
Dare Devil Wrasse and Anemone 4-3-08
So I'm very new to marine aquariums, learning new things every day and your site has been awesome.
<Thanks!>
I have a question about my pink tipped anemone, how poisonous is it to other fish?
<Very. These stinging celled individuals can reach out and nab an unsuspecting fish with a wave of a tentacle. >
About a week ago I added a six-line wrasse and he seems to be doing great in his new tank, except he worries me because he swims between the tentacles seemingly without a care in the world. My question is does the fish have a chance of being eaten, (the wrasse is small enough that it'd be pretty easy if the pink-tip got hold of him I'd think) and if not, is the fish bothering the anemone? I'm pretty sure my wrasse thinks he's a clown fish!
<While his stunts may seem harmless to him, they are actually death defying acts. At any moment he can become a potential meal for your anemone. I would remove one of the two, as these acrobatics of the wrasse may cost him his life. As far as harassment is concerned, on the anemones behalf, I wouldn’t be worried. >
14g
8.0ph
nitrite: 0
nitrite: 5
ammonia: 0
the
Thank you so much for your help!
<Not a problem. You have a brave little wrasse. –Yunachin.>

New Anemone Roaming the tank! Possible Chemical Warfare - 3/7/08
<Hello Carolyn, Brenda here!>
Hi there! I usually find all my answers within your site but can't tonight. We have a 55 gal salt water...all water parameters are great...we check them daily, also I have about 60+ lbs live rock, a few coral in the tank, 2 mushroom rocks, 1 small cluster of zoo's, 1 small brain, feather dusters scattered, frogspawn, green star polyps, 1 small frag of Montipora Cap., also...we have 2 bubble tip anemones... which wont stay put. We just added them to the tank yesterday.
<They may just be looking for a suitable spot in the tank. This is not unusual for a newly introduced anemone. You do have quite a mix of coral. You may have a chemical war going on in there. The green star polyp and mushroom coral can be toxic to anemones, especially if you have a lot of them. Are you running carbon and changing it on a regular basis?>
I know they are mobile- but I had a bubble in the tank for almost a year- he never moved- until I added a second bubble tip. Then I lost them both.
<Anemones of the same clone are best. There is never a guarantee that two anemones that are not of the same clone will be compatible.>
I have plenty of light...400 watt metal halide.
<Wow! That is a lot of light for a 55 gallon tank!>
I feel like here we go again... My LFS guy tells me yes, I can have them together- the bubble tip as long as monitored and kept away from Coral should be fine. Any Ideas?
<Please send me a list of your water parameters to be sure there is nothing else going on. Are you using a skimmer?>
I really want the bubbles for my Clarkii's- they love'em!
Thanks! Carolyn
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Symbiotic tank 01/21/2008
Hi, whoever's there today,
<Riley>
I'm in the early stages of planning a tank to show off as many symbiotic relationships as I safely can.
<Mmm... a matter of perception my friend. Look about you... there is NOTHING but such arrangements on this planet... I take it here that you are referring to more overt ones...>
The tank will be 65g about 50lbs live rock and 2-3 in live sand bed. So far I plan on having an ocellaris clown with Entacmaea quadricolor as its host, and a Hi Fin red banded goby with a red banded pistol shrimp. Any suggestions on other relationships that would co-exist peacefully? Thanks, your website is awesome.
<Mmm, well... the goby may be consumed by the Bubbletip in time... but all might fit in such a small volume. Do seek out a "tank-produced" Entacmaea. Bob Fenner>

Cleaner shrimp and anemone.  1/8/08
<<Hello, Andrew here>>
I have a long tentacle anemone and a cleaner shrimp that is purposely touching it and climbing on it in some cases. It appears that the anemone doesn't like it because he shrinks in that area. It looks like the shrimp is then scraping the nematocysts (stinging cells) off of his forward limbs and eating them. I have never seen this, the anemone seems to be doing okay except he has not yet settled in one spot.
Do you think there is cause for concern?
<<Had a similar experience, nothing to be concerned about>>
Thanks, Nick
<<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>

Anemone Question/Compatibility 1/5/08
 Hi again crew!
<Hello>
 We so appreciate that you are always here and always willing to answer questions. We have read much on your site about the following two questions, but just want to double-check.
<OK>
Here goes: We have a 125-gallon reef tank, up for one year. 4x2x2.
The tank has had its ups and downs (as have we!) but is stable now.
Temp 78-79, ammonia 0, nitrates 0, nitrites 0, calcium <400 (so I am adding Purple Up every other day for a week or so), salinity 1.025.
We have more than 150 lbs of live rock, about 3-4 inches of live sand. Under the tank we have removed the bioballs in our sump and replaced them with live rock. Have a skimmer, two heaters (thanks to WWM for the suggestion; temp is much more stable than using just one), four powerheads (including one that just keeps the surface of the tank moving).
Our tank is an open top,
<Yikes.>
since our light fixture is raised and does not allow for anything underneath it. We top off about 1.25 gallons per day from evaporation. We use R/O water that has been sitting, heated, for a week or more.
Inhabitants: 1 Sailfin Tang (the BOSS), 2 Yellow Tangs, 2 Yellow Chromis, 1 Fairy Wrasse, 1 Fire Shrimp, 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Coral Beauty, 2 Clarkiis, 1 Algae Blenny and 1 unknown striped Goby (the surviving one of three...the other two we found on the living room carpet...our LFS said they didn't know the fish were jumpers).
<Without the tank being covered, this problem will continue. Have you thought about putting a glass top on the tank?>
In the > sump are two Snowflake Eels that apparently went over the edge of the baffles. We can't get them out easily so the next time we pull the underneath apart we'll grab them to return them to the LFS. Oh, and one Sand-sifting Starfish.
Non-swimming inhabitants (all singular): Candycane, Plate, Colt and Torch Corals.
Trachyphyllia, feather duster, mushrooms, and polyps.
Question 1: Our Colt and our Star Polyps are unhappy. For a month or so the Stars and the Colt were awesome, but now all Stars are closed and the Colt is wilted. Not disintegrating, but wilted and slimy looking. We presume this is from allelopathic issues with the other coral?
<More than likely. The use of Chemi Pure will go a long way in removing allelopathic compounds from the water. Is what I use.>
We presume we need to stick with one type of coral? (We have never been able to keep Xenia, either.) If this is correct, we will return both to the LFS, which is happy to take them back.
<Try using Chemi Pure, see if this doesn't help. Also be sure plenty of room is provided between individual corals. Some corals do have sweeper tentacles that extend beyond the coral itself and will sting other corals that are nearby.>
Question 2: The larger of our Clownfish (which used to live in the Goniopora we no longer have) is now sleeping on the Trachyphyllia.
It's kind of cute, but we are worried that it will hurt the coral. It lays on its side and rubs back and forth on the coral all night. The coral (so far) seems not to mind.
<As long as the polyps do not retract, should not be a problem.>
While we realize that most clownfish do not host Anemones,
<Wild caught Clownfish will host anemones to their liking, that is, the anemones they are found with in nature.>
this one seems to be telling us it needs another buddy. Your advice?
<In "buddy", do you mean another Clownfish or an anemone? Would not advise an anemone mixed with corals. They will eventually move and sting corals in their travel and you will be throwing another monkey into the allelopathy bag.
We have no particular issue having an Anemone, as our coral are established and not easy to push around. We aren't worried about a traveler knocking everything over.
<Ah, but as above, the stinging process along the way along with more allelopathy issues.>
We make water changes every three- four weeks, and test regularly. We don't know exactly what kind of  lighting we have .... fluorescent bulbs (daylight, actinic and  moonlight).
<Should make sure you have the proper lighting and intensity for keeping corals. May be another reason why some of your corals are degrading in health. See here and related articles above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
 Thanks as always ... you guys (and you gals) are awesome!
<Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>
 Michael and Dianne

What happens within the tank when an Anemone dies? 12/20/07
Hi Crew,
<Hello Bobby, Brenda here!>
I have a question about Condylactis Anemones.
<Okay!>
If I were to buy a Condylactis, and it happen to die (obviously not hoping, just sort of planning ahead), what would happen within the tank? Would this pretty much crash my tank?
<It is a definite possibility, especially in smaller tanks.>
I'm new to anemones so any information about what happens after their death would help.
<They can fall to pieces, and are very hard to get out of the water in one piece. You may need to siphon a lot of it out. It smells horrible, and will cause an ammonia spike. You will need to do several large water changes over the next few days. Having a supply of premixed saltwater is always recommended for emergencies. I recommend researching their care several months in advance so you can eliminate the chances of it dying. More information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm >
Thank you very much, Bobby
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Condylactis anemones
Mixed Anemone Species, Inadequate Food, Lighting, Environment, and Tank Mates – 12/6/07
Hi there,
<Hello Natalie, Brenda here>
I am new to your website and so far I love it.
<Good to hear! I hope the love continues!>
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. I have a 125 gallon tank (up for 3 months) with 50lbs live rock (I am adding more all the time), crushed coral, live sand, and a plenum filter (not the only source of filtration). My parameters are as follows pH 8.2, ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 30.
<Nitrates need to be zero. What are the temperature, salinity, alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium?>
My lighting consists of 2 50 watt bulbs (5500k) and 2 actinic 420 bulbs.
<50 watt bulb??>
I have 6 small damsels,
<Holy Damsels!!!>
2 Percula clowns, 1 tomato clown,
<Clownfish are damsels also.>
1 large serpent star, tons of tiny feather dusters and starfish (compliments of the live rock), 1 emerald crab, 1 porcelain crab, tons of hermit crabs, turbo snails, zebra snails, 1 BTA, and 3 Condylactis.
<Ouch! You have too many crabs, and are mixing anemone species. A three month old tank is not a sufficient environment for an anemone. I also don’t recommend 3 clownfish, it may end in death. Crabs are opportunistic feeders, and can become predators.>
My question is this, as I have read through your website I am finding that it is normal for the anemones to turn brown.
<If the anemone has previously expelled its zooxanthellae, then yes, this is normal. It is a sign that the anemone is recovering.>
So I am really looking for some validation that even though my anemones look all beautiful and white (even kind of green under the actinic lights) this is not healthy coloring for them.
<A “white” anemone is not a healthy anemone. Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condydisfaq.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/e.quadFAQ5.htm >
They are healthier and happier when they are the brown (light brown) color?
<Yes, loss of color is caused by loss of zooxanthellae. Zooxanthellae, is required for their long term survival.>
They all eat very well. I feed them frozen brine with a baster and will be soon adding pieces of fish and clam to their diets.
<Your anemones are eating, but are not eating well. Brine shrimp, unless newly hatched has little or no nutritional value. I recommend feeding Silverside, Lance Fish, Kill, raw shrimp, Mysis shrimp, etc. I recommend Silversides soaked in Selcon for sick anemones, feeding small 1/8 inch portions daily until it is fully recovered.>
In fact one Condylactis is a host to the tomato clown!!
<This may not be a good thing. A Condylactis is not a natural host to clownfish, and this may end in death. I also don’t recommend allowing a clownfish to host an unhealthy anemone.>
I am absolutely infatuated with them and want to ensure that they are healthy and happy. (I know that I need more light and that is in the works).
<Without sufficient lighting, food, established environment, appropriate tank mates, the anemones will not survive long. I do suggest you return them until you can provide for them. Keep reading.>
Thanks again, Natalie
<You’re welcome! Brenda>