|
|
FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Health 8 Related Articles:
Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea
quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner,
Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black,
Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones, Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones, Related
FAQs: BTA Disease 1,
BTA Disease 2, BTA Disease 3,
BTA Disease 4, BTA Health 5,
BTA Health 6, BTA Health 7,
BTA Health 9, BTA Health 10, &
E. quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2,
E. quad. FAQ 3, E.
quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA ID,
BTA Compatibility, BTA Selection,
BTA Behavior, BTA Systems,
BTA Feeding, BTA
Reproduction/Propagation,
Anemones,
Anemones 2,
Caribbean Anemones,
Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and
Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting,
Anemone Identification,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, Anemone
Feeding, Heteractis
malu, |  |
sick anemone? BTA rdg. 10/14/08
Hello guys,
I was wondering if you could have a look at this rose bubble
anemone.
I have had it for a couple weeks. It seems to be losing
color and getting more spotty looking. Also, the "bubble" tips don't
really bubble much.
<This last is a clue, but not evidence of
diminished health per se>
It is open most of the day, but seems
to close up into a ball at least a couple times per day.
<Mmm>
It doesn't move very far from this area. I have fed it small chunks
of krill
<How small?>
a couple times per week. My water
parameters are logged, and average at the following:
SG: 1.023
<Too low>
ph 8.4
Alk 10 dKH
ammonia 0
nitrites 0
nitrates 4.0 (steadily decreasing)
<Not an issue>
po4 0
<Might be an issue... how, why is soluble phosphate zero? IS a
necessary component of this (and other) animal's health/nutrition>
calcium 420
temp 80
I dose with iodide (half recommended dose)
daily.
<... I would not do this... Maybe full dose... on
days/occasions when you change out water>
water changes 15% every
other week
Any ideas as to why this guy looks so sad? Any input
would be appreciated. Thank you.
<All the speculations above.
Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> |  |
Re: sick anemone? reading... BTA 10/14/08
Perhaps
I am incorrect about the po4 level. I just started testing for it
with the Salifert test. It is the first time I have used their
products. I will retest in case of an error. What is the best result
for po4 that I should shoot for?
<Mmm... a "trace"... actually,
as I vaguely hinted at "IF" you're not doing something to absolutely
exclude HPO4, then you're likely fine here... That is, enough will
be supplied "incidentally" through all foods, cycling of same...>
In the test kit it says that .1 is critically high.
<Mmm, I
disagree>
As for the krill feeding, I cut the frozen krill into
pieces about the size of a match stick head. Thanks so much for your
help.
Jason
<Please do read where you were referred. BobF> |
Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More
Information Needed – 6/4/08
I am new to this site and am not
sure where this will end up on the site---it appears to be a bit
confusing to me. I have 2 questions.
<Okay! >
I found several
articles on bulb tipped anemones and found some great information.
Mine (Annie--2 weeks old) has just decided last night to fill with
water and float all over the tank. I understand this behavior means
she is not happy and is looking for a prime spot.
<Correct>
Also, she seems a little lighter in color---perhaps she is not
getting the proper nutrition/lighting.
<It has expelled some of
its zooxanthellae. This can be caused from lack of lighting,
nutrition or another form of stress. >
However she refuses to
stick anywhere and has very little reaction to tentacle
stimulation---and refuses to eat anything.
<This does not sound
promising. >
I used tongs to target feed some fresh shrimp, then
brine shrimp---she may have eaten a small amount of a shrimp pellet.
<Brine shrimp is useless unless it is newly hatched, or enriched.
Discontinue the pellet food, and try small portions of Krill, Mysis
Shrimp, or Silversides. >
My tank parameters have been consistent
and good, and all of my critters are doing very well. How long do
they usual do the
float?
<Until they find a suitable spot. If
one is not available, it may float around until its death. >
I
know no one that has a different/better set up. Any ideas I can do?
I also was given a small tentacle coral plate.
<Fungia? >
I
also have read about their behavior----swelling with water at times.
However-mine lives on a sandy substrate and the only indicator I see
that she is alive, is that she is still orange. I see no tentacles
and no food moving towards her mouth and refuses target feeding. She
also has mucous around her.
<Is it getting any flow? What are you
feeding? How long have you had it? >
I hope to hear from you
soon-in the meantime I will continue to read more on your website!
<Good! >
38G, live rock---mushrooms and polyps (1/2 the
tank)---"shelf" model---rest is sand and small shells
Nova
extreme lighting-4 T5s-2 actinic blue, 2 VHO-Led light at night
Penguin BioWheel 150 filter and a protein skimmer
<What kind of
protein skimmer? Do you have any other flow? >
2 Percula clowns,
3 green Chromis, 1 black and white Damsel, 3 blue/yellow tail
Damsels
<That’s a whole lot of Damsels! >
Several species of
snail and hermit crabs,
<Crabs can be predators. >
1 scarlet
skunk cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 serpent star, 1 bristle
star, 1 shifting sand star
T=78, PH=8.2, SG=1.022,
<This is
much too low of salinity for anemones. Gradually bring up to 1.026
by adding pre-mixed saltwater as your top off daily. >
ammonia=0,
nitrite=0, nitrates=5-10,
<Work on getting nitrates down to zero.
>
calcium---350-400ppm, 12-14 dKH,
<Your calcium is a bit low
and your dKH is a bit high. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm What is your magnesium
level? >
phosphates=.5
<Needs to be zero. >
I also perform
a 5 gallon water changes weekly and rinse filters daily.
<Filters do not need to be rinsed daily. How old is your system? How
much live rock do you have? >
Thank you!
Christina
<You’re
welcome! Brenda>
Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More
Information Needed – 6/4/08 6/9/08
Thanks for the reply
Brenda!
<You’re welcome! >
Annie (BTA) is still alive-I am not
sure how-unless she is getting minimal nutrition from the shrimp
that I feed the fish.
<It is likely getting some nutrition from
the waste from the fish. >
I lightly squished her into the live
rock before bedtime-and hoped she wouldn't die---But she actually
likes the spot!!!
<Perfect! I’ll keep my fingers crossed that it
stays. Just be careful when handling the anemone. They are very
delicate creatures.>
Today I am going to buy some Krill, Mysis
shrimp and silversides.
<Great! >
Re: the Fungia-I have no alt
flow-I can buy a powerhead also.
<You will need the added flow.
This may have been what the anemone was looking for also. Be sure to
cover the intake to protect the anemone.>
I am feeding-frozen
brine shrimp, shrimp pellets, sometimes fresh shrimp (small chunks),
and Nori.
The Fungia is still bright orange. I have had her for 4
weeks.
My tank overall is a new tank---approximately 9 months
old.
I put in 19 lbs live rock when I set the tank up.
I am
bringing the SG up-as you said and yes, a lot of Damsels---a couple
have a "gig" next week-to help cycle my mom's tank.
<I don’t
recommend using fish to cycle a tank. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcyclfaq2.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
The parameters are
better (ca2+ and alkalinity, ca=440ppm, and Alk=10dKH)
Plan:
Get Krill, Mysis shrimp, Silversides and Powerhead
Slowly
increase SG
Get Magnesium tests
I am trying with frequent
water changes to bring the nitrates and phosphates down.
<Have
you considered a refugium and/or macro algae. More information found
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm >
What is the best
food for Fungia-I have heard many different opinions.
<Meaty
foods such as the Mysis, Silversides or Krill. >
I will have to
get back to you about the type of protein Skimmer. Thanks again!!
Teena
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More
Information Needed – 6/11/08
Just a quick update--The Anemone
is eating the Silversides and the Fungia is eating (I now actually
see it) the Mysis shrimp!! Everyone if happy with the increase in
flow! Thanks again and I will talk to you soon!
<That is great
news! Brenda> |
Troubled bubble tip- Bubble Tipped Anemone Lacking Light 4/29/08
Hi Crew,
<Yunachin here.>
Hopefully you can give me some
promising information.
I have a small bubble tip anemone that has
been happy in my tank for a little over a year. This past week, the
ballast in my light went out and I only have 36 watts on my tank
until the replacement gets here on Friday. In the past few days, it
has begun to detach itself from the rock and that seems a little
worrisome. Would this be in regards to the lack of light?
<Yes.
Anemones will position themselves to get the best light or avoid too
much light.>
I will have the new ballast and 72 watts back on by
Friday, but I wasn't sure if this is the problem, or something else.
I have attached a picture that shows the foot detachment from the
rock.
It seems healthy otherwise, but if there is something I can
do to prevent any further stress, then I wanted to get ahead of the
game.
<Everything looks good. I am sure when you replace the
light that everything will be back to normal. It may move a bit but
it looks healthy otherwise.>
Thanks in advance for all the help!!
Thanks!!!!
<You’re welcome. –Yunachin>
Rachael | |
There is a Euphyllia to the right... RMF |
Anemone Health and Systems – 4/24/08
My BTA is deflating in a
very alarming way since Saturday morning. I understand they can
deflate to defecate but this is not it. I've had the BTA for 3
months now and she has never acted this way. She is deflating with
mouth wide open.
<This is not good!>
I can see her cavity
empty. She is releasing a very thick gel (no poo) She will remain
like this for the next 3-4 hours and come back to life. When she
does, especially during night time, she gets very enlarged (over
inflated) tips bubbled up, not normal for her.
<It is not
uncommon for this species to have bubbled tips some times and not at
other times.>
The water parameters are PH 8.0-8.2, Ammonia 0,
Nitrates 0, the hard Nitrates 0.5 (just fed 2 hrs ago) the KH 10.
The GH text never works for me but today is the schedule water
change. There are a few factors to consider so I need your help.
First, I did a Blackout on 4/12 for 40 hours to control algae bloom.
<What is causing the algae bloom?>
After that my largest
Clownfish changed behavior. He is the only clownfish that was
purchased at a store. He (or should I say She) is projecting
dominance towards my other clownfish. These acts of dominance are
staged on the anemone. Can the clownfish be roughing up the BTA?
<Yes.>
Could she be repelling the fish?
<It looks to be
starving and slightly bleached. What have you been feeding?>
On
Friday I moved my small Hammer coral 5 inches down from the BTA who
sits in the top of a cave. The BTA did not show any signs of harm or
stress. See April 18 pic.
<You have only sent April 23 pictures.>
On that day I also change the power head that is pointed in the
direction of the BTA (on 15min intervals). It is a stronger power
head than the last one.
<Be careful with powerheads. I don’t
recommend there use in a tank with anemones. If your anemone starts
to wander, which is a likely event, it will be shredded.>
Because
she looked fine around 5pm, I decided to meet with my clownfish
breeder to get more fish. I had 4, one died and soon after the
aggression began.
<You will have aggression with more than one
pair of clownfish. Only one pair per tank unless you have a system
of a few hundred gallons or more. Even with a few hundred gallons,
there is no guarantee that the clownfish will get along.>
That
Saturday night I also purchased some frags a Xenia and a Frogspawn
from the breeder. When I came home to add the new species the BTA
looked normal. I positioned the Frogspawn 3 inches from the Hammer
coral who immediately released thin streaks of gel.
<How did you
acclimate?>
It was late at night and I didn't pay any attention
to it and went to bed. Next morning the corals look great but the
anemone didn't. After finding out the chemical war I probably
initiated between the two corals, I moved the Frogspawn to the other
end of the tank. Still, the BTA shriveled up and released gel the
next day. Can the corals be causing the problem?
<They are not
helping.>
The BTA is fed Mysis and little shrimps.
<You may
want to try small portions of Silversides soaked in Selcon.>
By
accident we fed the anemone 4 times last week (boyfriend forgot to
check the feeding calendar I keep on the fridge) I normally place
the shrimp on the tentacles next to the mouth and she picks it up if
desired. Apparently she desired all 4 times.
<Is there anything
stealing its food?>
To add to it...On Monday night my mother
in-law got me a Sebae Anemone. It is sitting in the opposite side of
the tank, attached and looking great. I don't know if my tank is big
enough to keep both.
<It is not recommended to keep different
species of anemones in the same tank.>
I will get a smaller tank
to keep it separate if needed.
<This tank needs to be a well
established environment for an anemone. Six months to one year of
age is the recommendation.>
I have a 120g tank that has been
running since Nov 07, skimmer, sump, 3 power heads and VHO light
system.
<Your tank wasn’t ready for an anemone. This is adding to
the problems. I recommend using Metal Halide Lighting or some T-5
with individual reflectors on a tank of this depth. This may be part
of the anemones problem.>
The BTA was added to the tank 3 months
ago Hammer Coral in tank for 3 weeks Neon green Nephthea in tank for
1 month Frogspawn Coral and Xenia and a small frag of Porites coral
were added on Saturday night
Sebae anemone, blue hippo tang and
new small frag of pink polyps were added Monday night (gift from the
in-laws).
7 Clownfish (one died before the blackout)
<Yikes!
That is a lot of clownfish! Five of them need to find new homes.>
Yellow Tang
Blue Hippo Tang
Snowflake Eel...don't ask :)
<You really need to research your live stock before you purchase and
add to your system.>
I added pics from this morning changes 10am
and 2pm. I will appreciate ANY advice you can give specially in the
landscaping area.
<More live rock would help. You don’t have
nearly enough for a 120 gallon system.>
As you can see, it's very
difficult for me to plan the landscape based on species,
temperament, light and water flow.
<This becomes easier in time
with a lot of research. More information on anemones found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm >
Thank you
<You’re
welcome! Brenda> |  
|
E. quadricolor, BTA Health – 4/24/08
Hi Crew,
<Hello, Brenda
here! >
We have a local reefer who was sold a "rainbow" BTA that I'm
calling out as bleached.
<There is no such thing as a “rainbow” BTA.
Yes, this anemone is definitely bleached. >
I'm trying to give some
tips on care (heavier than normal feeding, low to moderate light) and
I'd like your opinion on it as well, and appreciate it:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k133/lishoop6/Jeannastank4-22-08001.jpg
<Heavy feeding will only cause more stress on this animal. Over feeding
will cause regurgitation, leaving the anemone with nothing. I recommend
feeding small portions soaked in Selcon daily. What lighting is this
anemone being kept under? More information found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonehealthfaqs.htm
Brenda >
E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/14/07
Hello once again!
<Hello Ryan, Brenda here>
I have yet another question for you.
<Not a problem!>
It never ends, does it?
<No, but this is how
we all learn, and why we are here.>
Thanks for all your great
help so far and hopefully you can help me out with this interesting
situation?
<I’ll try!>
I recently moved my bubble tip anemone
and its clone to a new tank. The new tank was setup with existing
live rock and water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae.
<This is
not an instant cycle. This creature needs an established
environment, including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6
months, one year is best.>
Everything has been going well, except
the endless walking around the tank.
<It is not happy.>
Different flow and lights will cause that.
<The new tank is
likely the cause.>
Yesterday I came home from work and found
something interesting. The anemones had been fed the day before and
looked a little unhappy.
<What are you feeding it?>
I took a
look and found something interesting? I've posted this on three
forums and no one has responded, which, in my opinion means no one
has an answer? Today the anemones look much happier and the "egg
sac" in the attached picture is gone. After I took the picture last
night I noticed the tentacle started to tear open but I did not stay
up late enough to see if anything was released? I added some carbon
and did a water change just in case something in the tank was off.
<You need to keep a close eye on your water parameters.>
Thanks
for looking, Ryan.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
It is just to the right of the mouth.
<Yes, I see this.>
Any
ideas?
<Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here is a
link to a thread that shows eggs inside of an anemone. The pictures
in this thread are amazing.
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a good
article to read:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm As far as
what is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to me
like one of its tentacles has become injured or irritated. What are
the tank mates, including fish, corals and invertebrates? Have you
noticed anything bothering it? Are there any possibilities that salt
accumulated somewhere and dropped into the tank, landing on the
anemone? What are your water parameters? How long has this tank been
up and running? Did you transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how
long did you leave it cycle before adding the livestock?
Thanks
again.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/15/07
Hi Brenda,
thanks for the reply.
<Hello Ryan, and you’re welcome!>
You
are not going to like this?
<Yikes!>
I did the entire change
over in one day!
<Ouch!>
After asking many people if it would
be OK if I used existing live rock and water as well as some Chaeto,
they all said yes.
<No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.>
So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were fine
until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp I've fed
for over a year. My ammonia was a little high the day after and I'm
assuming that one or both of the anemones did not eat their
"dinner", causing the higher ammonia.
<The ammonia spike is
caused by the cycle. This is extremely toxic to anemones.>
I did
a water change to fix the problem, a rather large water change and
after that they both looked fine. Here are the water parameters,
ammonia 0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10
DKH, salinity 1.025, temp. 79....I think that's it.
<I do
recommend a salinity of 1.026 for anemones.>
The tank has a
couple of frags that were attached to the live rock, Montipora and
that is it, no other corals or fish....oh other than the one
Palythoa hijacker. Please let me know if there is a way I can fix
this situation?
<I suggest getting the anemones out of there for
a while. See if you can find someone local to take it in. If you are
starting with a new sand bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6
months. If you transferred the old sand bed, it will take less time,
but I can’t give you an exact time frame. It could take a few weeks,
or even a few months. There are too many variables. You will need to
keep checking your water parameters. Once everything has been stable
for a while, you can put the anemones back in.>
I assure you I
did a lot of questioning before I went ahead with this move and
everyone said it was fine. Now I need your help, please. I did not
check the links yet because I'm in a bit of a rush and trying to
catch you today rather than tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/16/07
Thank you
Brenda!
<You’re Welcome!>
Sorry to keep this going back and
forth with you.
<No need to be sorry!>
The sand is new, I
thought I was saving myself cycling issues by doing this rather than
using old "dirty" sand, apparently I was wrong.
<Even when using
old sand, there will still be a cycle.>
I have little trust in
others in my area, I work at a LFS but don't want my anemones there
because they cram them all in one little tank.
<Ouch! I know what
you mean! When visiting a LFS, I first look at how they treat their
anemones. I can’t count how many times I’ve left feeling sick! I
have found very few LFS that provide an adequate environment for
this creature.>
I don't know anyone else (local) with a tank that
would be suited to keep anemones.
<Wish I could help, I would
gladly take the anemones in for a while if you were local.>
So
that being said I would prefer to try and fix the problem by myself.
I watch things very carefully and hopefully I can pull this off? I
have a SPS reef tank that has been doing great for over a year
(started it before that). Here's what I've been doing. I'm making 5
gallons of new saltwater per day, letting it rest (with a pump) for
a day, adding that to my reef tank, then I take 5 gallons out of my
reef tank and change 5 gallons on my anemone tank.
<This is a
waste of effort in my opinion. You simply can not create an instant
cycle. Your new tank needs time to cycle. Dirty water is not the
solution. Once your tank has cycled it will still not be an adequate
environment for anemones.>
Not the best method but hopefully this
will get me through this 6 month period? I know you are not going to
be all that fond of this idea.
<No, I’m not fond at all, neither
are the anemones. They need an established environment, no less than
6 months, no short cuts here.>
Do you think it is possible to
keep my anemones if I continue to do this?
<It is a possibility,
but not a probability, also not fair to the anemones to be kept in
such an environment.>
My other option would be to somehow get
them back in my reef tank.
<This would be my choice, with a slow
drip acclimation to reduce added stress.>
I would prefer not to
lose my corals. That is an option that I would rather not go for.
<Were the anemones in the SPS tank previously? Were there problems
that made you decide to move them, roaming, etc.? I keep anemones
with SPS, and have had no issues. My anemones do not roam, and I
keep the SPS away from the anemones. Granted, this is not a
guarantee that they won’t roam someday. Can you tell me more about
your SPS tank? Size, equipment, livestock, water parameters, amount
of flow, RO or RO/DI water, is there room for the anemones?
I
appreciate your help a lot. Please try and see things from my point
of view on this.
<I do, (and the anemones view) we’ve all made
mistakes.>
I am doing my best to keep them happy. I guess I
should have emailed you first, before I made the transfer. By the
way both anemones look very healthy and happy!
<This may not be
long term.>
Thanks so much, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues... Brenda! Refer Ryan! –
11/16/07
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Ryan!>
Thanks again!
<You’re welcome!>
The anemones were in the SPS tank before but
the two used to be one, it split and then both started roaming.
<Both are a sign of stress.>
They are also very large so their
tentacles swaying in the current (lots of flow) were causing
problems with my corals and clam.
<Yes, that is a problem!>
I
use RO/DI water, have 4000 gph of flow (90 gallon tank),
<That is
a lot of flow, likely too much for anemones.>
a EuroReef skimmer,
Kalk reactor, refugium with a DSB and Chaeto, 500 watts of metal
halide lighting (10K), 100+ pounds of live rock, 30 gallon sump,
etc.
<Nice equipment!!!>
My water parameters in the SPS tank
are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 1.5, calcium 400, DKH 11, Ph 8.3,
temp. 79, SG 1.025-1.026.....I think I got all of those? My SPS tank
is packed full of corals and my main concern is the anemones
wandering or letting loose of the live rock and floating into a
Tunze powerhead.
<I don’t recommend the use of powerheads with
anemones. If you must use them, they need to be covered with
something to protect the anemone.>
I can provide you a link to a
picture to show you my tank so you get a feel for how packed it is.
My other thought was putting them in the refugium but then I would
have to buy an additional light and most likely keep that light on
at the same time my tank lights are on (not sure why I think that?).
<I don’t know why you think that either. I recommend the refugium
light to be on at opposite times of the main tank. Placing the
anemones in the sump (with proper lighting) is an option as long as
you can be sure the anemones are protected from all pumps. Anemones
going through a pump can wipe out an entire system. Without seeing
your set up or knowing how much flow is going through it, I really
can’t recommend it.>
I certainly want to keep the anemones happy
so I'll do what I need to. I'm also wondering if there would be a
safe way to connect the two tanks for a period of 6 months. I cannot
drill the tank, it's brand new acrylic and cost enough that I would
not feel comfortable putting a temporary hole in it.
<I don’t
blame you. What size/type tank is your new one? How close is it to
the old one? What lighting do you have on it? Do you have any old
tanks around that you could temporarily connect to the established
tank, a 20 gallon or so? I do suggest running carbon, and frequent
water changes when mixing coral and anemones. The initial problems
you experienced may have been caused by chemical warfare, along with
too much flow.>
I really appreciate all your help. Here's a
picture so you can see what I'm dealing with.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1508.jpg
<Yes, a bit crowded for anemones.>
I guess the other option would
be to cage them in with some egg crate until they are attached and
happy?
<There are no guarantees that creating a cage will create
happiness. I believe there is simply too much flow in your main
tank, and possibly chemical warfare. In the mean time, take a cup or
two of sand out of your established tank, and start seeding your new
tank.>
Thanks once again, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/17/07
Thanks Brenda!
<You’re welcome>
Wow the longest running WWM FAQ ever....I'm
joking. I do have extra tanks but connecting them safely would be an
issue. The only way I could do that is to have a pump in the main
tank and a pump in the connected tank, both pumping water back and
forth, we both know you should not do that. The refugium may work. I
have no pumps in the Fuge, just a feed pump from a different area of
the sump which supplies clean water and lower flow. I would need to
upgrade the lighting but other than that I think that may work.
Here's what I'm going to do today. Take some sand out of the
refugium, add it to the anemone tank, take a large amount of Chaeto
and add that to the anemone tank as well. I am also going to try and
add some flow without having a pump directly in the tank with the
anemones. I think they miss the flow. Both settled in a very high
flow location in my reef tank so maybe that's what they're looking
for.
<They are suffering from being placed in a
non-cycled/non-established tank. It is important that you get them
out of there. This is not only very stressful on anemones, but also
one of the leading causes of death in captivity.>
I'll assume
this will be the last email about this, so once again thanks so much
for all your help. I'll give you an update in a month or so. Thanks,
Ryan.
<Good luck to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 4/7/08
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Ryan! It has been a while! >
I hope you’re the one who
gets this?
<Sorry for the delay, I’ve been out for a few days. >
I wanted to let you know everything with the two anemones is going
well, no issues at all. It was a little rough at the start but after
a month or so everything seemed to cool off.
<Keep an eye on
them. You are just approaching the 6-month mark. The stress that the
move has caused them over the last few months could cause them to
rapidly decline if there is even a slight problem. >
The anemones
have not moved in months and are very happy in their new home.
<Good to hear! >
I seem to have a bit of a nutrient issue which
caused a population of Aiptasia to explode, but other than that
everything is going really well.
<You’ll want to get that under
control. Aiptasia can sting BTAs.>
I recently bought a used AquaC
Remora skimmer, which will help with the nutrient load.
<Awesome
product! Keep the pump away from the anemones. >
I know you
thought and insisted this could not be done, but with frequent water
changes and careful feeding I seem to have accomplished something
most apparently cannot?
<My thoughts have not changed. It is very
stressful on the anemones, unfair, and often deadly. See the before
and after pictures that you submitted below. >
I also added 2
black and white clowns (tank bred), which love the anemones!
<Adorable clownfish! >
Here is a picture of the happy anemones
and their happy clowns.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
<It looks like they have lost quite a bit of color (zooxanthellae)
since this picture that you sent me in November:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
This really shows just how stressful the last few months have been
on them. If there are no more problems, they should continue to
recover.>
Thanks for all your help!! You’re welcome! Good luck to
you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 4/8/08
<Hello Ryan!>
Thanks for the concern and pointing out the color difference to me,
but I think I have an explanation of why they looked so bright
before?
<Okay.>
That picture, the one from November was taken
when the lights were off using flash and possibly a flashlight. The
color from the flash or flashlight is much more yellow than the
color from the lights on the tank. The reason I took that picture at
that time was because it was the only time the anemone was deflated
enough to see the weird egg shaped tentacle. I'm not saying this was
a brilliant idea to put the anemones in a new tank and I hope things
continue to work out the way they have.
<I hope so too. However,
this photo
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
leads me to believe this anemone has not completely regained its
health. >
The lighting they were in before was 500 watts of metal
halide and now they are under 130 watts of PC lighting.
<What
size tank are they in now?>
Maybe that caused a difference in
color as well?
<Lighting does play a role in coloration. However,
I’m seeing some white and some areas that look a bit transparent.>
They have been eating when I feed, which has been very sparingly so
far and appear to be perfectly happy?
<Try feeding some small
portions of silversides soaked in Selcon, and feeding more often.>
I really hope I'm not wrong and this continues to work out?
<With
an adequate environment, they will continue to improve.>
About
the skimmer, it's located in a back chamber of the tank; the tank
has an internal filtration system so everything is hidden behind the
overflow which should prevent any damage to the anemones from pumps.
<Great!>
Thanks for all your help and if you would like I can
give you another update in a month or two?
<That would be great!>
Thanks again, Ryan
<You’re welcome! Brenda> |
BTA anemone.... hlth. 3/30/08
I Just want to make sure my
BTA is ok.
<Hi, Mike I here with you today>
I had a GBTA shipped
to me it looked great the first day. It was acclimated properly all of
my parameters are ok according to Salifert tests
<You don't list
them, so cant comment>
My salinity is 23 with a refractometer.
<This could do with being pushed up slowly over time to around 1.025/6
I have a 180 g with 30 g sump at least 100# live rock. It 's been up for
over a year I have a G+4 skimmer with recirc mod and a canister carbon
filter. Lighting is 3 250w MH 4 96w compact actinic and moon lighting
all on timers coralline power heads and 1200 maxi jets with the impeller
mod.s There is no coral yet can I have Acans with a BTA?
<Other
have, and providing you're skimmer is adequately sized for your tank,
and perhaps you run a little carbon frequently, there should be no
issues>
Fish are tangs, true Percs gobies and a 6 line. My question
is it shriveled a lot but is still bright green It doesn't open all the
way not much for balls on the tips. it did the first day I also left the
MH off the first day)
<It's common for anemones to take a little
while longer after initial acclimation to settle, deflation and
re-inflation, providing it does not go on into 2 weeks I wouldn't
initially be concerned with the information you have provided. However,
if something is off in your water quality, then could be linked>
It
secured itself to one of my overflows but what is all the white slime? I
removed the slime is it poop?
<I don't know without a picture. It
not common for white slime to slough off anemones, only when they are in
the final stages of decomposition.>
It has some dark balls in it
looks almost like spider webs is it digesting
<Dark balls/spiders
web, hmmm, the only thing I can think of regarding dark balls is that
BTAs can brood eggs/sperm and release fertilised planulae - not likely
in this case however. Again a picture would help>
I fed it a silver
side the second day I have had it for about 5 days opens more under the
moon lights than it has during the day.
<Again, not uncommon while it
adjusts to your lighting regime, which may be considerably more than it
has been used to of late>
I just want to make sure It survives. The
Percs love it. I let it go in the current and place it self and have not
moved it. Thanks for the help
<Firstly, please run your question
through a spell check before sending if possible, and don't forget
punctuation - it makes it much easier for us to deal with your queries.
I recommend you start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and then the linked indices on BTAs starting perhaps here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
I'm concerned to hear you animal has settled near overflows - do be
careful; these are very delicately bodies animals and can tear/injure
easily. This goes for the powerheads you mention too. make sure they are
covered/protected so the animal cannot hurt itself. Do write back if you
have any extra information as requested, or if we can help further. Good
luck! Mike I>
Re: BTA anemone 4/1/08
It doesn’t look like it is
decomposing. It is mostly open today. I was just wondering what the
white slime was. I can't take a picture of it cause I took the slime out
there was a lot of it all around the anemone thanks.
<Hi Tayler! Mike
I again. The only thing I can think of could be the animals own
mucus that sometimes comes from handling. If it reoccurs do take a
picture, but if not, it may be nothing to worry about. Good luck, and
watch those powerheads! Mike I>
|
|
