E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/14/07
Hello once again!
<Hello Ryan, Brenda here>
I have yet another question for you.
<Not a problem!>
It never ends, does it?
<No, but this is how we all learn, and why we are here.>
Thanks for all your great help so far and hopefully you can help me out with this interesting situation?
<I’ll try!>
I recently moved my bubble tip anemone and its clone to a new tank. The new tank was setup with existing live rock and water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae.
<This is not an instant cycle. This creature needs an established environment, including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6 months, one year is best.>
Everything has been going well, except the endless walking around the tank.
<It is not happy.>
Different flow and lights will cause that.
<The new tank is likely the cause.>
Yesterday I came home from work and found something interesting. The anemones had been fed the day before and looked a little unhappy.
<What are you feeding it?>
I took a look and found something interesting? I've posted this on three forums and no one has responded, which, in my opinion means no one has an answer? Today the anemones look much happier and the "egg sac" in the attached picture is gone. After I took the picture last night I noticed the tentacle started to tear open but I did not stay up late enough to see if anything was released? I added some carbon and did a water change just in case something in the tank was off.
<You need to keep a close eye on your water parameters.>
Thanks for looking, Ryan.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
It is just to the right of the mouth.
<Yes, I see this.>
Any ideas?
<Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here is a link to a thread that shows eggs inside of an anemone. The pictures in this thread are amazing. http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a good article to read: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm As far as what is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to me like one of its tentacles has become injured or irritated. What are the tank mates, including fish, corals and invertebrates? Have you noticed anything bothering it? Are there any possibilities that salt accumulated somewhere and dropped into the tank, landing on the anemone? What are your water parameters? How long has this tank been up and running? Did you transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how long did you leave it cycle before adding the livestock?
Thanks again.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/15/07
Hi Brenda, thanks for the reply.
<Hello Ryan, and you’re welcome!>
You are not going to like this?
<Yikes!>
I did the entire change over in one day!
<Ouch!>
After asking many people if it would be OK if I used existing live rock and water as well as some Chaeto, they all said yes.
<No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.>
So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were fine until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp I've fed for over a year. My ammonia was a little high the day after and I'm assuming that one or both of the anemones did not eat their "dinner", causing the higher ammonia.
<The ammonia spike is caused by the cycle. This is extremely toxic to anemones.>
I did a water change to fix the problem, a rather large water change and after that they both looked fine. Here are the water parameters, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10 DKH, salinity 1.025, temp. 79....I think that's it.
<I do recommend a salinity of 1.026 for anemones.>
The tank has a couple of frags that were attached to the live rock, Montipora and that is it, no other corals or fish....oh other than the one Palythoa hijacker. Please let me know if there is a way I can fix this situation?
<I suggest getting the anemones out of there for a while. See if you can find someone local to take it in. If you are starting with a new sand bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6 months. If you transferred the old sand bed, it will take less time, but I can’t give you an exact time frame. It could take a few weeks, or even a few months. There are too many variables. You will need to keep checking your water parameters. Once everything has been stable for a while, you can put the anemones back in.>
I assure you I did a lot of questioning before I went ahead with this move and everyone said it was fine. Now I need your help, please. I did not check the links yet because I'm in a bit of a rush and trying to catch you today rather than tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/16/07
Thank you Brenda!
<You’re Welcome!>
Sorry to keep this going back and forth with you.
<No need to be sorry!>
The sand is new, I thought I was saving myself cycling issues by doing this rather than using old "dirty" sand, apparently I was wrong.
<Even when using old sand, there will still be a cycle.>
I have little trust in others in my area, I work at a LFS but don't want my anemones there because they cram them all in one little tank.
<Ouch! I know what you mean! When visiting a LFS, I first look at how they treat their anemones. I can’t count how many times I’ve left feeling sick! I have found very few LFS that provide an adequate environment for this creature.>
I don't know anyone else (local) with a tank that would be suited to keep anemones.
<Wish I could help, I would gladly take the anemones in for a while if you were local.>
So that being said I would prefer to try and fix the problem by myself. I watch things very carefully and hopefully I can pull this off? I have a SPS reef tank that has been doing great for over a year (started it before that). Here's what I've been doing. I'm making 5 gallons of new saltwater per day, letting it rest (with a pump) for a day, adding that to my reef tank, then I take 5 gallons out of my reef tank and change 5 gallons on my anemone tank.
<This is a waste of effort in my opinion. You simply can not create an instant cycle. Your new tank needs time to cycle. Dirty water is not the solution. Once your tank has cycled it will still not be an adequate environment for anemones.>
Not the best method but hopefully this will get me through this 6 month period? I know you are not going to be all that fond of this idea.
<No, I’m not fond at all, neither are the anemones. They need an established environment, no less than 6 months, no short cuts here.>
Do you think it is possible to keep my anemones if I continue to do this?
<It is a possibility, but not a probability, also not fair to the anemones to be kept in such an environment.>
My other option would be to somehow get them back in my reef tank.
<This would be my choice, with a slow drip acclimation to reduce added stress.>
I would prefer not to lose my corals. That is an option that I would rather not go for.
<Were the anemones in the SPS tank previously? Were there problems that made you decide to move them, roaming, etc.? I keep anemones with SPS, and have had no issues. My anemones do not roam, and I keep the SPS away from the anemones. Granted, this is not a guarantee that they won’t roam someday. Can you tell me more about your SPS tank? Size, equipment, livestock, water parameters, amount of flow, RO or RO/DI water, is there room for the anemones?
I appreciate your help a lot. Please try and see things from my point of view on this.
<I do, (and the anemones view) we’ve all made mistakes.>
I am doing my best to keep them happy. I guess I should have emailed you first, before I made the transfer. By the way both anemones look very healthy and happy!
<This may not be long term.>
Thanks so much, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues... Brenda! Refer Ryan!  – 11/16/07
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Ryan!>
Thanks again!
<You’re welcome!>
The anemones were in the SPS tank before but the two used to be one, it split and then both started roaming.
<Both are a sign of stress.>
They are also very large so their tentacles swaying in the current (lots of flow) were causing problems with my corals and clam.
<Yes, that is a problem!>
I use RO/DI water, have 4000 gph of flow (90 gallon tank),
<That is a lot of flow, likely too much for anemones.>
a EuroReef skimmer, Kalk reactor, refugium with a DSB and Chaeto, 500 watts of metal halide lighting (10K), 100+ pounds of live rock, 30 gallon sump, etc.
<Nice equipment!!!>
My water parameters in the SPS tank are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 1.5, calcium 400, DKH 11, Ph 8.3, temp. 79, SG 1.025-1.026.....I think I got all of those? My SPS tank is packed full of corals and my main concern is the anemones wandering or letting loose of the live rock and floating into a Tunze powerhead.
<I don’t recommend the use of powerheads with anemones. If you must use them, they need to be covered with something to protect the anemone.>
I can provide you a link to a picture to show you my tank so you get a feel for how packed it is. My other thought was putting them in the refugium but then I would have to buy an additional light and most likely keep that light on at the same time my tank lights are on (not sure why I think that?).
<I don’t know why you think that either. I recommend the refugium light to be on at opposite times of the main tank. Placing the anemones in the sump (with proper lighting) is an option as long as you can be sure the anemones are protected from all pumps. Anemones going through a pump can wipe out an entire system. Without seeing your set up or knowing how much flow is going through it, I really can’t recommend it.>
I certainly want to keep the anemones happy so I'll do what I need to. I'm also wondering if there would be a safe way to connect the two tanks for a period of 6 months. I cannot drill the tank, it's brand new acrylic and cost enough that I would not feel comfortable putting a temporary hole in it.
<I don’t blame you. What size/type tank is your new one? How close is it to the old one? What lighting do you have on it? Do you have any old tanks around that you could temporarily connect to the established tank, a 20 gallon or so? I do suggest running carbon, and frequent water changes when mixing coral and anemones. The initial problems you experienced may have been caused by chemical warfare, along with too much flow.>
I really appreciate all your help. Here's a picture so you can see what I'm dealing with. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1508.jpg
<Yes, a bit crowded for anemones.>
I guess the other option would be to cage them in with some egg crate until they are attached and happy?
<There are no guarantees that creating a cage will create happiness. I believe there is simply too much flow in your main tank, and possibly chemical warfare. In the mean time, take a cup or two of sand out of your established tank, and start seeding your new tank.>
Thanks once again, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 11/17/07
Thanks Brenda!
<You’re welcome>
Wow the longest running WWM FAQ ever....I'm joking. I do have extra tanks but connecting them safely would be an issue. The only way I could do that is to have a pump in the main tank and a pump in the connected tank, both pumping water back and forth, we both know you should not do that. The refugium may work. I have no pumps in the Fuge, just a feed pump from a different area of the sump which supplies clean water and lower flow. I would need to upgrade the lighting but other than that I think that may work. Here's what I'm going to do today. Take some sand out of the refugium, add it to the anemone tank, take a large amount of Chaeto and add that to the anemone tank as well. I am also going to try and add some flow without having a pump directly in the tank with the anemones. I think they miss the flow. Both settled in a very high flow location in my reef tank so maybe that's what they're looking for.
<They are suffering from being placed in a non-cycled/non-established tank. It is important that you get them out of there. This is not only very stressful on anemones, but also one of the leading causes of death in captivity.>
I'll assume this will be the last email about this, so once again thanks so much for all your help. I'll give you an update in a month or so. Thanks, Ryan.
<Good luck to you! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 4/7/08
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Ryan! It has been a while! >
I hope you’re the one who gets this?
<Sorry for the delay, I’ve been out for a few days. >
I wanted to let you know everything with the two anemones is going well, no issues at all. It was a little rough at the start but after a month or so everything seemed to cool off.
<Keep an eye on them. You are just approaching the 6-month mark. The stress that the move has caused them over the last few months could cause them to rapidly decline if there is even a slight problem. >
The anemones have not moved in months and are very happy in their new home.
<Good to hear! >
I seem to have a bit of a nutrient issue which caused a population of Aiptasia to explode, but other than that everything is going really well.
<You’ll want to get that under control. Aiptasia can sting BTAs.>
I recently bought a used AquaC Remora skimmer, which will help with the nutrient load.
<Awesome product! Keep the pump away from the anemones. >
I know you thought and insisted this could not be done, but with frequent water changes and careful feeding I seem to have accomplished something most apparently cannot?
<My thoughts have not changed. It is very stressful on the anemones, unfair, and often deadly. See the before and after pictures that you submitted below. >
I also added 2 black and white clowns (tank bred), which love the anemones!
<Adorable clownfish! >
Here is a picture of the happy anemones and their happy clowns. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
<It looks like they have lost quite a bit of color (zooxanthellae) since this picture that you sent me in November:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
This really shows just how stressful the last few months have been on them. If there are no more problems, they should continue to recover.>
Thanks for all your help!! You’re welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues – 4/8/08
<Hello Ryan!>
Thanks for the concern and pointing out the color difference to me, but I think I have an explanation of why they looked so bright before?
<Okay.>
That picture, the one from November was taken when the lights were off using flash and possibly a flashlight. The color from the flash or flashlight is much more yellow than the color from the lights on the tank. The reason I took that picture at that time was because it was the only time the anemone was deflated enough to see the weird egg shaped tentacle. I'm not saying this was a brilliant idea to put the anemones in a new tank and I hope things continue to work out the way they have.
<I hope so too. However, this photo http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg leads me to believe this anemone has not completely regained its health. >
The lighting they were in before was 500 watts of metal halide and now they are under 130 watts of PC lighting.
<What size tank are they in now?>
Maybe that caused a difference in color as well?
<Lighting does play a role in coloration. However, I’m seeing some white and some areas that look a bit transparent.>
They have been eating when I feed, which has been very sparingly so far and appear to be perfectly happy?
<Try feeding some small portions of silversides soaked in Selcon, and feeding more often.>
I really hope I'm not wrong and this continues to work out?
<With an adequate environment, they will continue to improve.>
About the skimmer, it's located in a back chamber of the tank; the tank has an internal filtration system so everything is hidden behind the overflow which should prevent any damage to the anemones from pumps.
<Great!>
Thanks for all your help and if you would like I can give you another update in a month or two?
<That would be great!>
Thanks again, Ryan
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Hi Brenda,
<Hello Akila!>
I have attached some pictures.
<It appears that you have two anemones! This would explain why it went into hiding. Stress! Anemones do split in two when they are stressed, resulting in two anemones. Collection is enough to stress an anemone enough that it will clone itself. More information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonereprofaqs.htm >
I have another problem. I tested my water for dKH and Calcium. I have 15 - 16dkh & 370 - 380mg/l. Can this be right???
<It could be. What test kits are you using? Are you adding anything for calcium and magnesium? For now, stop adding additives. There is more information here regarding Calcium and Alkalinity: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Best regards, Akila
<Brenda>

E. quadricolor, BTA, Hiding, Acclimation – 3/14/08
Dear Mr. Bob Fenner
<Hello Akila, Brenda here this time!>
I have wrote to you a lot of times and you guys have been a real help to me over the years.
<Good to hear!>
I appreciate your advice with regards to what I am facing now. Some details of my 80G tank would be, I have 1 large canister filter (works as a refugium for me), 2 power filters (1500lph each), protein skimmer, UV sterilizer 5W, Compact Florescent lighting 6500K - 400W,
<Are you sure this is compact florescent lighting?>
& Chiller. My pH is 8.2-8.4(can't figure out the exact color from the chart), Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate <10. I do a 20% water change every month.
<I recommend 10% weekly.>
I also add 4 - 5 teaspoons of baking soda every month along with the water change to maintain my pH.
<Are you testing before adding this? Are you gradually adding the baking soda?>
I don't have fish in my tank at the moment due to some problems with lifted temperature that finally led me to buy a chiller. The tank is cycled and I ran it for 2 years with no problems. I currently have 3 tube worms, grape macro algae (I forgot the name of the algae), and some sails. After adding the BTA (Rose) 2 days ago it is hiding under a cavity inside my rock work. It did not come out for a day. I read a lot of FAQs on your site and learned that this could be normal until it gets settled in but is there any other parameters or something else I need to check.
<Yes, what is your temperature and salinity? How did you acclimate this anemone?>
Do I need to get any other equipment or something to make it feel more comfortable?
<Do you know any history on this anemone? Was it recently shipped? What kind of lighting was it kept under previously?>
I don't understand why it is hiding inside a rock.
<I wouldn’t be overly concerned just yet. This anemone may be acclimating itself to its new environment. Placing an anemone into a new environment is stressful. >
Thought they liked bright lighting???
<They do, but I’m not convinced you have extremely powerful lighting.>
Can the tube worms be a problem???
<No. Do you have any coral in the tank? If so, what?>
Also how can I increase the calcium level in my tank. I heard the tube worms like more calcium in the water???
<Your LFS should have the additives you need. I do recommend researching before you start adding chemicals. Here is a good place to start: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Thanks in advance for your advice,
Best regards, Akila
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E. quadricolor – 1/18/08
Hi WWM crew and thanks for several years of good advice for weird
situations.
<Hello Tracy, Brenda here, and you are welcome!>
I have another question for you.
<Okay!>
Context - 7 yr old stable 150gal reef w/ 10,000K MH lighting and no real problems for a long time. Blennies, gobies, clown, mushrooms, a few SPS, yellow polyp forest, pulsing xenia that reproduce so madly they pay half my maintenance costs.
<A lot of mushrooms?>
Crisis - My rose BTA (favorite thing in the whole tank, had it 18 months, grew ~10x in size in that time, skunk clown lives in it) had
some sort of horrible, unexplained accident yesterday. I found it in the overflow box with a piece (~15%) torn off.
<The anemone was not happy. It was looking for a better place.>
The mouth appears badly damaged, the pedicle is fine, and tentacles are fine. The small piece is really small, has only 5-10 tentacles on it & is mostly a blown up balloon. I put both pieces in my refugium, assuming it was going to die quickly but wanting to give it a chance.
<Many anemones survive this type of injury, including going through powerheads. Protect all of your intakes. The recovery process will depend greatly on the health of the anemone before its injury. I do recommend a water change if you haven’t already.>
Well, this morning, all the tentacles are out and beautiful. The damage is still very severe, but neither piece is dying quickly.
<I’m not surprised.>
I am wondering where and how (if?) to try to rehabilitate it.
<Provide it with pristine water parameters and time.>
My refugium has only a PCF bulb (can't remember the wattage). I replace it every year, it is bright enough to sustain an insanely thick garden of Caulerpa, but I doubt it's bright enough for an anemone.
<No it is not. However, the anemone will be ok for a few days without sufficient light. Moving it again will cause more stress. For now, let us try to figure out why it moved in the first place. Also, keep it away from all pumps in the refugium.>
I am obviously very leery of putting a mangled anemone back in the main tank, where crabs & fish will pick on it; it will wander restlessly into some bad situation & die in a corner where I can't find it, etc.
<What are you water parameters, including temperature, salinity, ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, calcium and alkalinity? How many watts of metal halide do you have? I also need to know what skimmer and amount of flow you have in the tank. How often do you feed the anemone, what size portions, and what are you feeding?>
What would you do with it right now?
<Leave the anemone where it is for now and try to figure out the cause of it roaming. Running fresh carbon will also help in the recovery.>
Under what circumstances would you feed it or put it back into the main tank?
<The anemone is no where near ready to eat. This will take some time, perhaps weeks and will depend on the damage, previous health, and if you can correct the initial problem quickly. You need to wait until the anemone is completely healed before feeding. Trying to feed now will only cause more stress.>
A few answers in your archive recommended Reef Dip for injured anemones. Do you think this is important?
<No, and it may be more harmful. I don’t recommend dips for anemones.>
Thanks a lot. Tracy
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E. quadricolor – 1/18/08
Hi Brenda & thanks for your reply.
<You’re welcome!>
My anemone had been in the same place, happy, for many months, and growing very fast. I got him in mid-2006 and he was about the size of a quarter, now bigger than my hand. I feed mysis thawed in Selcon, 1 cube/week.
<I would feed smaller portions 2 – 3 times a week. Over feeding can cause stress. It can also cause the anemone to regurgitate several hours later.>
Not much has changed in the tank lately. I did recently start adding strontium for some new small SPS corals, about 3 weeks ago.
<Are you testing these levels before dosing?>
Light: 2x 150w MH, 4x 54w actinics, total watts=529
<Did this anemone typically stay up high in the tank?>
Temp usually 77 (chiller)
<This is a bit low, try to aim for 80 degrees, without going over 82. Increase temperature slowly.>
Sg=1.026
NH3, NO2, NO3=0
KH=8 (constant battle to get higher, but usually 8 no matter what I do)
<A dKH of 8 is an acceptable range. I would not go much higher, if any. I would check your magnesium. If you are having trouble maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels, low magnesium may be the cause. An abrupt change in alkalinity will cause stress to anemones. So use caution here!>
Ca=450
I actually don't have any intakes or powerheads in the tank, just a fast/powerful main pump with 2 returns in the tank.
<No powerheads!!! Yeah!!! You have no idea how seldom I hear that! I am a strong believer in not keeping anemones with powerheads. Congrats to you for not using powerheads!>
The anemone must have dived over the top of the overflow box, there's no other way in there!
<Anemones can get through very small spaces when flow/suction is involved. I’ve seen them get sucked into a rather thick sponge filter on a powerhead.>
I have ~20 mushrooms. I'm about to sell half of them and 1/3 of my
basketball-sized xenia colony. Perhaps this will cut down on some of the chemical warfare that probably stresses the anemone.
<Removing some of the mushrooms will help with chemical warfare.>
I have carbon and a poly filter running all the time (time to change, about 2 months old).
<Yes, carbon is only useful for a few weeks at best.>
No skimmer, just a 20gal sump full of Caulerpa and detritivores (pump & turbulence segregated at one end by a screen).
<I do recommend you purchase a reputable skimmer. This is one very important piece of equipment for any reef tank.>
I'll do a 20% water change tonight and will take any other suggestions you have. How long do you think I can leave it in the refugium before the low light starts to impact its recovery ability?
<This is hard to say. Some can go a few weeks or even a few months with inadequate lighting.>
I don't want to go overboard with the quarantine and end up doing even more damage.
<I understand. I would try giving the anemone 3 or 4 more days and then re-evaluate. Send me an update on it and I will help you decide. If things suddenly worsen during this time, let me know as soon as possible. Keep in mind that when this anemone does go back to the tank, it will need to be acclimated to the light. It may also immediately go into hiding (normal) or roam again so you will need to monitor it. Also, if you can, send me a picture of the anemone. If you are a member of a local reef club, you may be able to find someone willing to let you borrow some PC lighting to put over the sump during this time. You may also want to consider purchasing some back up lighting. Keeping the anemone in its current location as long as possible will help greatly. If you need help finding a local club, let me know. I will find out what is available in your area.>
Tracy
<Good luck! I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you! Brenda>

Re: Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E. Quadricolor – 1/26/08 Update and need to move? The anemone(s) are looking good. Moving around a bit, staying small, and no necrosis. <Yeah!!!> I have attached pics. It's been a week. The question of course is what to do now. I would like to leave them in the refugium for their whole convalescence if possible, then sell the small one & reintroduce the big one once they can eat. <You would need to buy additional lighting to keep them in there much longer. They are already showing signs of hunger and loss of zooxanthellae. Unless you can provide better lighting in the next 2 – 3 days, I would move them now.> In the refugium, they sit on the top of a Caulerpa forest just under the water surface. I gave them a glass bowl to sit in but they moved out. Ironically, there is a dreaded powerhead in there; otherwise it stagnates because the screen holes are small to keep in the Caulerpa. This weekend I will move the powerhead to the other side of the screen and just use a hose to get the same flow. The intake is buried deep in Caulerpa so low risk, but not zero risk. I took apart the refugium light to read the label - it's a Coralife 6700k 96 watt PCF bulb, last changed 5/07. They are about 7 inches from the bulbs. In the main tank they were always in the exact middle. How long do you think they can be healthy with that wattage? <I would go ahead and move them now. I would not take a chance on having them deteriorate.> Usually this light stays on 24/7, but I've been giving them a 12hr light/dark cycle like the main tank, do you agree with that? <Yes, no need for a refugium light to be on 24/7.> As for your other questions - I don't have Strontium or Magnesium test kits, and just add Strontium. This is one of those "don't fix what isn't broke" things. I've never tested for those in 7 yrs. <It is a bad practice to dose anything without testing. Since you just recently started dosing Strontium, it may be contributing to the anemone roaming.> If you think high or low levels could be affecting the anemones, I could test, which kits do you recommend for those? <You should be testing Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium. If your going to dose Strontium, you need to test it before dosing.> How do I decide when to feed? Give them x number of weeks looking good, then try a few mysis? Wait till I can clearly see nice round mouths in each one? (The little one was mostly mouth, the big one had most of its mouth ripped out). <They don’t appear to be badly damage in the picture. I would go ahead and try feeding a very small piece of food (sliver size). If it takes it, I would try another tiny piece the next day. I would also get some window screen and put over your tank for a week or so, to acclimate the anemone to the lighting.> Thanks for ongoing advice. Tracy <You’re welcome! Brenda> Re: Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E. Quadricolor – 1/28/08 <Hello Tracy, Brenda here!> A few developments: <Okay!> I talked with several guys from the Atlanta Reef Club. They all thought that 96 watts over 17 inches (quad bulb) should be fine for anemones for longer than a week, and wondered if I just needed a new bulb. <It is possible, but we are already dealing with an unhealthy, injured anemone. I don’t want to see the health decline any more. We are at the 10 day mark already.> So I did a little more looking at my setup. The bulb I had was indeed 96 watt PCF and only 7 months old, but it had no actinic component! So I replaced it with a new 96 watt 6700k 50/50 bulb. Do you think the lack of an actinic component could have caused loss of zooxanthellae that quickly? <No, the loss of zooxanthellae is not caused by the lack of actinic. A bulb without the actinic would be a better choice, yet still not sufficient, in this case.> If not, I can still move to the main tank but at least now they will have a day or 2 at a higher light level to help them acclimate. <You have actually decreased the lighting by adding the actinic.> I fed them both - turned off the flow and dropped a mysis right in the middle of them. The big one eventually, after 5-10 minutes, ate 2 mysis and I see there is a well-healed mouth. <Two mysis shrimp may be a bit much for this anemone. I would try just one for now.> I also got him to stick on a small rock, which will make moving him easier. <Good sign!> The little one didn't react to the food at all, didn't close up around it, eventually it fell off and was eaten by an Aiptasia nearby. <Yikes! The nearby Aiptasia are not doing the little guy any favors. It needs to be kept away from the Aiptasia. An unhealthy anemone will not be able to compete with them.> I am especially reluctant to lose this tiny one in the tank if it is weak and not eating. What do you think? <I would move return them both to the main tank. I feel that the main tank is a better choice.> Tracy <Brenda>

Going, going...

Re: E. quadricolor 911 – 1/04/08
I just tested the tank on New Years Day. I use a master reef test kit.
<I don’t recommend this test kit. I would go with a more reliable product, such as Salifert. In the mean time, take a water sample into a reputable LFS and have your water tested.>
My tank is 47 gallon. I started out in a 10 gallon tank and upgraded to the new tank, having been up for about 7 months now. I added the anemone in August and it came from Live Aquaria.
<Your tank was not ready for an anemone. It needs an established environment, six months to one year, with one year being best.>
It was healthy looking when I got it and for a while after. It has looked this way for close to 3 months. I use compact lighting with a dual actinic and dual daylight. The bulbs are about 7 months old, and I have ordered more. The water parameters are: salinity 1.023,
<Your salinity is too low. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by using pre-mixed saltwater as your top off water daily.>
Nitrite 0.2,
<Needs to be zero.>
ph 8.0, Nitrate 50,
<Nitrates are much too high, needs to be zero. I suggest a large water change and continue to monitor daily.>
Alkalinity is low (added reef buffer)
<How low?>
ammonia is .25
<Much too high, a large water change should help, but you need to get to the root of the problem.>
and the temp is 76.
<Temperature is too low; gradually bring up to 79 – 80.>
I added 15 lbs of new rock on new years.
<Was it cured?>
I also added phosphate control.
<Why? What were your phosphate levels? Where does your source water come from, RO, RO/DI, or Tap?>
I am still learning my tank, so it is very possible I do not have something right. The size of silverside I have been feeding it is about the size of a pencil eraser.
<That is too large of a piece for an anemone in this shape. Try feeding as small of a piece that you can tear off. Foods soaked in Selcon may also help.>
I did notice today that the foot is spreading on the rock. I check it sometimes at night and it looks the same as under the lights. I turn on the tank when I get up in the mornings and off when I go to bed. I hope all this information helps. Oh yea, his tank mates are a yellow tang,
<A 47 gallon tank is much too small for any tang.>
maroon clown, blue damsel (new) several snails and crabs,
<I don’t recommend crabs, they can be predators.>
and a new Condy anemone.
<Mixing species of anemones is dangerous and likely deadly.>
It lives on another rock across the tank. I hope the pictures help too.
<Based on those pictures, your anemone is in very very poor shape, if not already dead. Also, you have Aiptasia anemones, which are no doubt stinging your BTA. A peppermint shrimp may help this, but you may need to protect the anemone from the shrimp while you feed it. I also suggest you be prepared for a large water change in the event that your anemone dies. Having 20 gallons or more available at all times is a good idea. Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor 911 – 1/04/08
I will try everything you suggested.
<Excellent!>
Could the nitrate and ammonia level be high because of the addition of the new cured rock I added on New Years Day?
<Yes, if the rock was not cured. Since your anemone has been on the decline for a while, the addition of this rock is not the root cause of its poor health. However, you need to get those levels down quickly.>
I did test the water the day after I added it. I have been zapping the Aiptasia with Joe’s juice.
<I would discontinue for now until the anemone is recovered. Peppermint shrimp may help, but you need to get your water parameters up to par.>
I added the phosphate control due to some hair algae growth. That is what my LFS recommended.
<What were your phosphate levels? I would also discontinue this for now. You don’t want to stress the anemone out any more than you have to. You need to get to the root of the phosphate problem. Where is your source water coming from? Have you tested the source water? How are you storing the water? >
You mentioned soaking food in Selcon. What is that? I have not heard of it.
<Here is a link to Selcon: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=5009&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=All&pc=1&N=0&Ntt=selcon&Np=1 >
I will try everything you recommended.
<Great! I did not see a protein skimmer listed with your equipment. Are you using one, if so, which one? >
Thanks for all your help.
Becky
<You’re welcome! I’ll be here to help you along the way! Brenda>

White markings on RBTA -12/22/2007
Hi Guys,
<A gal here :)>
First time poster! You have provided so much valuable info as I expand into the hobby. I have a 8-10" RBTA which has bright white markings as seen in the photo. I've had it for 4 months and seems healthy, its already split twice. Are these white marking normal?
<Yes, they are (and pretty too--imo).>
Also, the tips have never bubbled, they stay as seen in the picture. Whats that about?
<Hmmm... maybe they only bubble when you're not looking. ;) J/k, well, sorta... it might be changing at night. Or, it might be a little unhappy. I can't tell if it's just the lighting of the photo or not, but it could be a wee bit faded/bleached.>
Water levels are perfect!
<What size tank? When it comes to anemones, there can be allelopathic concerns you can't necessarily test for.>
Thanks in advance.
Eric
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/2/07
Dear Crew,
<Hello Andy, Brenda here>
It’s been a while since I rapped at ya. I have a question about the health of my BTA. I have had it for 7 months or so, during which time its color has gone from tan to a deep red. It is paired up with a Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, and they have a good relationship. I feed it about once per week with (I rotate) Mysis, small pieces of table shrimp, and chopped oyster, all soaked in Selcon. It has always readily taken food and remains open and pointed upwards most of the time.
I have a 110g display (30" high) with 6x54W T5 HO (4x10000K and 2x460nm actinics) that is on about 12 hours per day (I use a timer). I plan to swap out at least the 4 10000Ks with 14000Ks when I replace my bulbs. The BTA is attached to LR very near the bottom of my tank. Since day 1, it has been in this same location, with minor realignments from time to time. I have previously posted a question to WWM about its position at the bottom of the tank and my lighting, as I was concerned that my lighting might not be enough for it, but the response was to leave things alone if the BTA was happy and doing well.
<Yes, I remember. If I’m not mistaken, both James and myself answered your questions. This fixture does not have individual reflectors correct?>
Over the last 7-10 days, however, I've noticed that the BTA appears a little wilted (both its foot and its tentacles) and is no longer positioned up/towards the light.
<How old are the bulbs?>
In fact, it appears to be resting on the glass bottom of the tank. It is still deep red in color and its foot remains attached to the same ledge of LR. Last night I tried to feed it, but it did not take the food or close up around itself as usual.
<This is not a good sign. Can you send me a picture of the anemone?>
As you know, you get to know your animals, and I just know that the BTA is not itself.
<Yes>
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate are all 0. Temp is stable at 77-78*,
<I prefer a bit warmer temperature for anemones. I try to keep mine at 80 degrees.>
pH is 8.3, alk is 3.5 meq/L, and salinity is 1.0245 (I have tried to get it up to 1.025 but can't keep it stable there due to top-off, salt creep, etc.).
<Be careful with salt creep, it is dangerous to live stock. I recommend 1.026 for anemones. I suggest topping off with salt water until you get to 1.026.>
I also employ a 30g fuge (4" DSB, LR and Chaeto) and a Coral Life Super Skimmer, and I run carbon in my sump (change every 4 weeks).
<I would try increasing the carbon change to every 2 weeks.>
I have about 85lbs of LR, a Sailfin Tang, a Royal Gramma, a Brown Combtooth Blenny, and a Canary Wrasse (in addition to the Clown), two Cleaner Shrimps, about 22 various types of shrooms,
<Mushrooms are toxic. You may have a chemical war going on here. Changing your carbon more frequently may help.>
2 small tree corals, a Lemnalia, and some Xenia. I do a 10% water change each week. Water is RO/DI.
<Is it time to change the filters?>
Circulation is about 10x per hour. I am very careful about not introducing any foreign substances (cleaners, etc.).
<Good!>
Do BTAs go through these phases, or should I be worried?
<This is not a phase, something is wrong here.>
I don't know what I could be doing wrong or not doing.
<It may be a combination of things. I suspect the mushrooms contributing largely to the problem. Lighting and RO/DI filters may also be contributing. However, I would expect the anemone to move higher up if it was not getting enough light.>
Thanks for any insight you may have.
Andy
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/2/07
Thanks for the response, Brenda.
<You’re welcome Andy! I received both of your e-mails, and will answer both here.>
I have attached 2 pictures of the BTA. Unfortunately, it's positioned itself under a ledge, oriented perpendicular to the front of the tank
and out of light, so the pictures aren't that great and I couldn't get a picture of its mouth. I also don't have a macro lens yet, so the image quality is what it is . . .
<Hard to tell. The pictures are much too dark. The anemone is much too small for a Maroon Clownfish. Maroons can be rough on smaller anemones. It is recommended that the anemone be 3 times larger than the clownfish. The anemone is also too small for having it 7 months with your feeding schedule. It is not getting the proper nutrition. Is the clownfish or the shrimp stealing its food?>
I forgot to mention in my last e-mail that my calcium is 400, so that is where it should be as well. I tried tonight to feed it some fresh clam. It captured the clam and started to swirl its tentacles, but I'm pretty sure it never ate the food (it didn't form a bulb around itself as usual).
<I suggest trying some silversides. Not all anemones will accept the same foods. There are many cases where some anemones reject many common foods, and will accept silversides. Based on the condition of the anemone, I would feed a 1/8 inch sized portion of silversides daily. Once it improves I would go to 1/4 inch sized portion every 2 to 3 days for a month or two.>
Thanks again for your help.
<You’re welcome!>
Shoot! I forgot to answer your other questions too. My RO/DI unit is 4-5 months old, and my TDS reads 148 going in and 0 going out, so I think the filters are working fine.
<I would take a sample into your LFS to double check. It is not uncommon for 4-5 month old filters to need to be replaced.>
My T5 bulbs are about 7 months old or so--they do not have separate reflectors.
<Is it time to clean the salt off of the reflector and bulbs?>
All of my mushrooms are at the edges of my tank, and the BTA sits in the middle of my tank. Relatively speaking, there isn't a mushroom near the BTA.
<They do not have to be next to each other to have chemical warfare.>
I will start swapping out the carbon more often. I realize that things in the marine world happen slowly (sometimes). The BTA and the shrooms have lived together for 5 or 6 months.
<Chemical warfare is a perfect example of things going bad slowly. With anemones, it can take months, or even a few years before it starts showing ill signs. Brenda>

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/4/07
Thanks again.
<You’re welcome!>
The anemone is actually quite big when healthy, at least 3 times as big as the clown. I was able to get a feeding response from it by trying another piece of fresh clam, but it wasn't nearly as vigorous as usual.
<I would still try the silversides. Are you positive that what you have is a BTA? After our last e-mail, I started thinking it may possibly be an LTA, which may explain why it hasn’t climbed higher in the tank.>
I clean the salt spray from the shields on my lights every week.
<Good!>
Andy
<Brenda>

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/5/07
Brenda,
<Andy>
I'm not sure of anything, although it was sold to me as a "bulb anemone" and did have bubble tips for about the first month or so, so I'm pretty sure it's a BTA.
<It does appear to be.>
I will get silversides tonight and start the feeding routine you suggested. I'll keep you posted.
<Great! I’ll keep my fingers crossed!>
Thanks for all your help.
Andy
<You’re welcome and good luck! Brenda>

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/7/07
Well Brenda, I am at a loss as to what is going on with my BTA. For three nights I have tried to feed it small pieces of silversides and I am pretty sure that the BTA failed to eat at least 2 of those 3 times. Tonight, I stood on a chair with my arm in the tank for 45 minutes chasing all my hermits and shrimps away from the anemone hoping to ensure that it could eat unmolested.
<I would remove the hermits and shrimp, or you could place a plastic strawberry basket over the anemone. However, based on the location of the anemone, I don’t know if you are going to be able to do this. Removal of the shrimp and crabs is best! I have seen shrimp go digging inside an anemone looking for food several hours after feeding an anemone. Eventually the shrimp became the anemones dinner. Pay backs are rough sometimes. All crabs have the potential to be predators.>
My back now aches and the skin on my hand became shriveled, and the BTA ultimately released the silverside without eating.
<Ouch!>
I raised my temp to 80 degrees and the salinity is now over 1.025.
<Needs to be 1.026 and stable.>
Is it possible that it is getting ready to split and that's why it is not eating?
<Is possible, but I don’t believe this is what is going on.>
If it starts to die, how in the heck do I get it out of my tank?
<First, I’m not sure that your anemone is going to die soon, but it is possible. It is hard to say without a better picture. However, in the even that it does, you will need to remove it quickly before the rest of your livestock dies. It is not going to be a fun easy task. If it is already falling apart (this happens rather quickly) when you find it, you may be able to suction it out. Either way, it is going to be extremely unpleasant for you and your livestock. Keep plenty of extra saltwater on hand. You will need to do a large water change and run fresh carbon. Keep a close eye on the water parameters for the first two week.>
It's at the bottom of my tank with its foot firmly planted under LR. Also, I seriously believe my Clown will die from loneliness.
<As I stated before, your anemone is much too small for the Maroon. They need to be separated. Maroons are harsh on a smaller anemone and likely deadly to a sick anemone. Your clownfish will be a little upset over the loss, but will not die without an anemone. Have you taken your water samples in to be tested yet? Were the readings the same as your test kits? I still believe that you do not have enough lighting to support this anemone. Unfortunately, I can not explain why it regained its color after you got it and is now ill. Your lighting, a Maroon loving it to death, water parameters, toxins in the water, the shrimp and the crabs, are all possibilities. I would start looking into finding another home for the anemone, preferably someone experienced with sick anemones. I believe this situation is going to continue to worsen. If you need help finding someone, let me know your location and I will see if I can find someone local to you. For now, I suggest contacting your closest reef club. A LFS is not likely going to take on this task.>
Andy
<I wish I had better news for you! Brenda>

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/7/07
Brenda,
<Andy>
Without breaking down my entire tank, there is no way that I am going to get this BTA out of the tank. His foot is wedged deep between the bottom of my tank and a piece of LR. It just isn't going to happen.
<Try aiming a powerhead at it (without blasting it). Maybe you’ll get lucky and it will move on its own. Can you see the anemones foot from underneath the tank? Is it attached to the glass? If so, possibly something cold (soft ice pack) from underneath, along with the powerhead may irritate the foot enough to make it move. It is a long shot, but worth a try. If this doesn’t work, there really is no other option other than tearing the tank apart. Letting it die is not an option in my opinion.>
Believe it or not, the Clown was just a tiny sucker when I got her--dwarfed by the BTA. And as I said in a previous email, when healthy, the BTA is actually quite large--double if not triple the size of the Clown.
<Yes, I am aware of that, but circumstances have changed drastically.>
The one thing I totally forgot to do, and which I will do Saturday, is take my water to the LFS. Thanks again for all your time/help. Andy
<You’re Welcome! Brenda>

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/7/07
Brenda,
<Andy>
I've read many times on WWM that "allowing an animal to die is never an option". With all due respect to the love that we all have for our animals, I don't necessarily agree that allowing an animal to die is always "wrong" and is never an "option".
<I am not convinced that your anemone could not live a long healthy life if it were given the proper environment.>
In fact, under appropriate circumstances, it may even be the right option. Rather, in deciding to entirely break down a large tank to save one animal, I think one needs to consider the incredible amount of stress that such action would place on all the other livestock and the possibility that, in saving one animal, you may kill others.
<I am fully aware of the stress involved in tearing a tank apart. I can assure you that a dead anemone, can crash your entire system quickly, leaving you with a total loss. I did recommend the lesser of the two evils here.>
In addition, in my particular situation, one needs to consider whether you will actually be able to dislodge the anemone without severely injuring it in the process.
<Extreme caution is always required when handling anemones. However, it is not an impossible task.>
Add to all of that the stress placed on the fish keeper, his or her available facilities (e.g., ability to move and hold healthy livestock while breaking down the tank, etc.), and any number of other factors.
<When you purchase any animal, you are ultimately responsible for their care. This animal did not ask to be removed from the ocean.>
My tank is large, heavy and sits on an oak stand. I can't see or access the bottom of the tank. The BTA's foot is wedged deep between the glass bottom and a large piece of live rock. I honestly do not believe that I could physically get this anemone out of this crevice without tearing its foot. The power head idea may work, though.
<If you can see the foot, or have a general idea where it is, aim the powerhead in that direction.>
As with everything in life, there are no absolutes, there is never only one "right" way to do things, and there is no "single" moral compass
that we all must follow. We all love our animals, or we wouldn't be in the hobby. Some hobbyist obviously are more caring/thoughtful than others, but I honestly believe that very few of us go out and spend thousands of dollars on a display and thousands of hours of hard work only to take a "I don't care about my animals" attitude. I certainly do not want to see my BTA die, and I am certainly committed to keeping my livestock healthy and happy and to nurse them back to health when they are sick.
<You are correct, there are no absolutes. However, given a proper environment and proper care, they won’t get sick. The lack of lighting issue was mentioned to you back in early or mid October. Nearly two months have gone by. You stated that upgrading the equipment was not an option at this time. Sufficient lighting, double checking your water parameters with another source, removing the clownfish for a month or two, or finding a new home, may save this creatures life. That my friend is the “single” moral thing to do.>
Hopefully things will work out for my BTA.
<I truly hope so too!>
Andy
<Good luck to you! I hope that someday you are able to send me an e-mail telling me that the anemone is thriving. Brenda>

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, – 12/8/07
Brenda,
<Andy>
I hereby crown you the Angry Crew Member.
<You are sadly mistaken here. I am not angry, but I am disappointed in your lack of willingness to satisfy this animals needs.>
The WWM Crew frequently requests that posters read their e-mails twice to make sure that the spelling, grammar, etc. is correct.
<Yet I’m still fixing yours!>
In the same vein, I ask you to save your responses for 12 hours and then come back and read them again to make sure you really want to hit "send".
<I answer when time allows, and will continue to do so.>
The only reason I am dignifying your tone/comments is that I celebrated the holidays with our friends tonight and I have a few beers in me.
<Is your drug altered state of mind supposed to be funny, insulting or threatening? It is not welcome here!>
I have news for you--long before October, long before you were involved in my BTA issue, even before I bought my BTA, I asked two reputable local fish stores about the suitability of my lighting system with a BTA, and each of them stated that my T5 lighting would be fine.
<How is that working out for you?>
In fact, I even posed the question to WWM and RMF (if memory serves) stated that my T5 lighting system should be sufficient, that the BTA would likely find its "spot" in my tank and that I would know soon enough by its movement, etc. whether it was happy. It's been 6 or 7 months . . .
<The words “likely” and “should” are key words here, and “soon enough” has now passed. Providing Bob with the correct information on your lighting would have been more helpful. You did not know if your T-5 lighting system had individual reflectors or not. In fact you did not understand what individual reflectors were. I explained this to you.>
This is a 10-day old problem.
<No, the problem started the day you purchased the anemone and placed it in your tank without researching their requirements.>
When I asked you previously about my lighting, my BTA was seemingly in fine health, eating, large, and happy.
<Perhaps a refresher is needed: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spgidf7.htm >
I asked you BECAUSE I was being proactive by trying to get as much info/opinion as possible. While I respect your opinion, it is not universally shared.
<I have spent many hours researching and caring for anemones. The information that I provided to you is the best available to date.>
Define "proper environment" and "proper care". Is it lighting? Is it food? Is it luck?
<There are many factors involved. This information was previously provided to you. It is also posted many times on WWM. “Luck” is not the answer when providing long term care for this delicate creature.>
You don't know the answer, and you've admitted to me as much.
<My statement in my first e-mail regarding this issue: “The anemone appears healthy. If you have individual reflectors on your T-5s, I would leave things alone.”>
If my lighting is so bad, why has my BTA remained in the same spot for 7 months and not moved to the top of my LR so that it can be as close to the light as possible?
<It may not have the energy to move. It clearly doesn’t even have the energy to eat.>
Why has its color improved?
<I have not seen this. Again, this is based on your description.>
Don't lecture me about my responsibilities. I have spent countless hours researching WWM, books, articles, etc.
<This is not a lecture, but a repeat of the hundreds of posts already on WetWebMedia.>
I have spent thousands of dollars on supplies, equipment, etc. to ensure that my pets have a good environment.
<A million dollars invested in the wrong equipment won’t help.>
My wife thinks I live in my basement as it is. I'm not the Baltimore Aquarium, for God's sake. I don't have 30 tanks waiting to house my fish and inverts while I rescue an animal.
<You have a 110 gallon tank here. Do the math! You won’t need 30 tanks.>
I'm doing the best I can here, by writing you as soon as I see a problem, by feeding, by testing water, etc.
<No, not the best, just what you are willing to do, and you are not considering the animal’s life. Writing won’t help much unless you actually act.>
That's what's moral.
<Obviously we don’t agree here.>
I fully intend to take a sample to my LFS.
<Is a good choice, should have been done already.>
I don't know what your day job is, but mine doesn't involve sitting at home with hours of free time on my hands to run off <to> the LFS whose hours don't always match up with my schedule.
<My day job is not your business.>
It will get done tomorrow. And, what if my water checks out fine? What then?
<Does upgrading your lighting, removing the clownfish, chemical warfare, correcting your water parameters sound familiar?>
What if the BTA is simply dying?
<Anemones don’t just “simply” die without cause. They can out live both of us if given the proper environment.>
I just put down my dog. She was 15. I could have spent thousands of dollars on surgery, but the vet said she probably wouldn't make it through the surgery and, even if she did, there was a good possibility that she would die anyway. He said it was just her time.
<May she rest in peace! So it must be the anemone’s time too?>
Sometimes things just happen, and all the water changes, and MH lighting, and food, and isolation won't change a thing.
<I’m not sure where you are getting your information here, but it is incorrect in this case.>
Clearly there is something wrong with my BTA.
<Oh yes! Clearly!>
I will do all in my power to figure out what that is and hopefully remedy it.
<It has been figured out for you. I have listed the remedy. It won’t fix itself.>
I honestly do not want my BTA to die or to foul my tank. I have invested too much time and money to want that to happen.
<Perhaps a little more time and money will fix the situation.>
I thank you kindly for all of your insight and help. Happy Holidays.
<Andy, when you do sober up please know that I will no longer be assisting you. Brenda>

Re: BTA Health... effective communication    12/9/07
Brenda,
<Mmm, no, BobF this time>
You don't have to assist me anymore, but I need to set the record straight because you aren't reading.
<Have just reviewed this corr. Here: http://wetwebmedia.com/btadisf6.htm>
You seriously have issues.
<...?>
Threatening? Don't be ridiculous or a jerk.
<......?>
Nothing in my post could be construed as threatening. Funny? A good assessment? Yeah, those two. Maybe it's just your email mannerism, but my problem with you is that you come across as a holier than thou, know-it-all jerk (and I have seen this in many other responses from you to others, including one in which you scolded a poster by making a reference to your dying grandfather-- your day job is no one's business, but your grandfather is?).
<Take care here my friend... this is neither pertinent, nor proper>
I will ignore your "sober up" and "drug induced" remarks (as well as your typos that were in your earlier responses--people who live in glass houses . . .). They are wholly inappropriate based on an incorrect reading of my post. I was simply in a good mood.
You have made these grand statements about how I failed to do my research, how I neglected to tell Bob about my lighting, how I am unwilling to buy a different lighting system, how I am unwilling to take the steps necessary to help my anemone, etc. They are all just plain wrong.
You are right, I willingly misrepresented my lighting system to Bob when I told him that I had the "Current Nova Extreme T5 HO lighting system." I have used this same description with others as well. You guys are the fish experts, which is why we write. Even though this is an extremely popular and common unit, I guess I should have known that no one knew that it didn't have individual reflectors (and known to even ask the question/know the difference!).
I take exception to your comment that I failed to do research. First, I did do research before I purchased the BTA. I read WWM, I read CMA, I researched other sites, and I asked the industry. Apparently you want me to take a college course. Many people successfully keep anemones using T5 lighting--this is evidenced by hundreds of posts on WWM and elsewhere. Show me a site other than your posts which states "if you're going to use T5 lighting with anemones, you must use individual reflectors--that Nove Extreme system just won't work." If (1) the manufacturer's description, (2) the retailer's description, and (3) two separate LFSs all indicate that the fixture is appropriate, and RMF doesn't mention anything about individual reflectors after I described my situation, why in the world would I think to ask the question? What more research could I have done? You just need to be right today, that's all.
<For some/whatever record, reflectors can/do help to focus, re-direct considerable amounts of light energy>
Also, I didn't say I wasn't willing to upgrade lighting--I said it was less than a year old and expensive, and I hated to trash it if I didn't have to. You suggest reflectors or MH, someone else suggests swapping in 14000K bulbs the next time I replace, someone else says my T5s are fine. Clearly a consensus, and I can understand how you could think that I am a totally irresponsible, uninformed hobbyist.
<Mmm, I don't see/read Brenda as coming across, stating this>
As for the 30 tank comment, I guess you don't recognize hyperbole when you see it.
FYI, my water checked out fine except phosphates were a little high (0.2) and iodine levels were extremely low to non-existent, which is odd because I do weekly water changes. The LFS stated that these two factors could definitely be the cause of my BTA's refusal to eat. I have taken chemical steps to fix these issues and will try to figure out what could be causing my phosphates. I have also been able to get my BTA to eat thawed mysis shrimp the last 2 night--I don't know why it won't touch the silversides.
<I encoura