|
| |
|
FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Health 6 Related Articles:
Bubble Tip,
Rose
Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob
Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim
Black,
Recent
Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones,
Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: BTA Disease 1,
BTA Disease 2,
BTA Disease 3,
BTA Disease 4,
BTA Health 5, &
E.
quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2, E.
quad. FAQ 3, E. quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA
ID, BTA
Compatibility, BTA Selection,
BTA Behavior, BTA
Systems, BTA Feeding,
BTA Reproduction/Propagation,
Anemones,
Anemones 2, Caribbean
Anemones, Condylactis,
Aiptasia
Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone
Reproduction, Anemone
Lighting, Anemone
Identification, Anemone
Selection, Anemone
Behavior,
Anemone
Health, Anemone
Placement, Anemone Feeding, Heteractis
malu,
|

Mis-matched |
Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral
Doing Poorly, More Information Needed – 6/4/08
I am new to this site and am not sure where this will end up on the
site---it appears to be a bit confusing to me. I have 2 questions.
<Okay! >
I found several articles on bulb tipped anemones and found some great
information. Mine (Annie--2 weeks old) has just decided last night to fill with
water and float all over the tank. I understand this behavior means she is not
happy and is looking for a prime spot.
<Correct>
Also, she seems a little lighter in color---perhaps she is not getting the
proper nutrition/lighting.
<It has expelled some of its zooxanthellae. This can be caused from lack of
lighting, nutrition or another form of stress. >
However she refuses to stick anywhere and has very little reaction to tentacle
stimulation---and refuses to eat anything.
<This does not sound promising. >
I used tongs to target feed some fresh shrimp, then brine shrimp---she may have
eaten a small amount of a shrimp pellet.
<Brine shrimp is useless unless it is newly hatched, or enriched. Discontinue
the pellet food, and try small portions of Krill, Mysis Shrimp, or Silversides.
>
My tank parameters have been consistent and good, and all of my critters are
doing very well. How long do they usual do the
float?
<Until they find a suitable spot. If one is not available, it may float around
until its death. >
I know no one that has a different/better set up. Any ideas I can do? I also was
given a small tentacle coral plate.
<Fungia? >
I also have read about their behavior----swelling with water at times.
However-mine lives on a sandy substrate and the only indicator I see that she is
alive, is that she is still orange. I see no tentacles and no food moving
towards her mouth and refuses target feeding. She also has mucous around her.
<Is it getting any flow? What are you feeding? How long have you had it? >
I hope to hear from you soon-in the meantime I will continue to read more on
your website!
<Good! >
38G, live rock---mushrooms and polyps (1/2 the tank)---"shelf" model---rest is
sand and small shells
Nova extreme lighting-4 T5s-2 actinic blue, 2 VHO-Led light at night Penguin
BioWheel 150 filter and a protein skimmer
<What kind of protein skimmer? Do you have any other flow? >
2 Percula clowns, 3 green Chromis, 1 black and white Damsel, 3 blue/yellow tail
Damsels
<That’s a whole lot of Damsels! >
Several species of snail and hermit crabs,
<Crabs can be predators. >
1 scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 serpent star, 1 bristle
star, 1 shifting sand star
T=78, PH=8.2, SG=1.022,
<This is much too low of salinity for anemones. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by
adding pre-mixed saltwater as your top off daily. >
ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrates=5-10,
<Work on getting nitrates down to zero. >
calcium---350-400ppm, 12-14 dKH,
<Your calcium is a bit low and your dKH is a bit high. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm What is your magnesium level? >
phosphates=.5
<Needs to be zero. >
I also perform a 5 gallon water changes weekly and rinse filters daily.
<Filters do not need to be rinsed daily. How old is your system? How much live
rock do you have? >
Thank you!
Christina
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral
Doing Poorly, More Information Needed – 6/4/08 6/9/08
Thanks for the reply Brenda!
<You’re welcome! >
Annie (BTA) is still alive-I am not sure how-unless she is getting minimal
nutrition from the shrimp that I feed the fish.
<It is likely getting some nutrition from the waste from the fish. >
I lightly squished her into the live rock before bedtime-and hoped she wouldn't
die---But she actually likes the spot!!!
<Perfect! I’ll keep my fingers crossed that it stays. Just be careful when
handling the anemone. They are very delicate creatures.>
Today I am going to buy some Krill, Mysis shrimp and silversides.
<Great! >
Re: the Fungia-I have no alt flow-I can buy a powerhead also.
<You will need the added flow. This may have been what the anemone was looking
for also. Be sure to cover the intake to protect the anemone.>
I am feeding-frozen brine shrimp, shrimp pellets, sometimes fresh shrimp (small
chunks), and Nori.
The Fungia is still bright orange. I have had her for 4 weeks.
My tank overall is a new tank---approximately 9 months old.
I put in 19 lbs live rock when I set the tank up.
I am bringing the SG up-as you said and yes, a lot of Damsels---a couple have a
"gig" next week-to help cycle my mom's tank.
<I don’t recommend using fish to cycle a tank. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcyclfaq2.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
The parameters are better (ca2+ and alkalinity, ca=440ppm, and Alk=10dKH)
Plan:
Get Krill, Mysis shrimp, Silversides and Powerhead
Slowly increase SG
Get Magnesium tests
I am trying with frequent water changes to bring the nitrates and phosphates
down.
<Have you considered a refugium and/or macro algae. More information found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm >
What is the best food for Fungia-I have heard many different opinions.
<Meaty foods such as the Mysis, Silversides or Krill. >
I will have to get back to you about the type of protein Skimmer. Thanks again!!
Teena
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral
Doing Poorly, More Information Needed – 6/11/08
Just a quick update--The Anemone is eating the Silversides and the Fungia is
eating (I now actually see it) the Mysis shrimp!! Everyone if happy with the
increase in flow! Thanks again and I will talk to you soon!
<That is great news! Brenda>
|
Troubled bubble tip- Bubble Tipped Anemone Lacking
Light 4/29/08
Hi Crew,
<Yunachin here.>
Hopefully you can give me some promising information.
I have a small bubble tip anemone that has been happy in my tank for a little
over a year. This past week, the ballast in my light went out and I only have 36
watts on my tank until the replacement gets here on Friday. In the past few
days, it has begun to detach itself from the rock and that seems a little
worrisome. Would this be in regards to the lack of light?
<Yes. Anemones will position themselves to get the best light or avoid too much
light.>
I will have the new ballast and 72 watts back on by Friday, but I wasn't sure if
this is the problem, or something else.
I have attached a picture that shows the foot detachment from the rock.
It seems healthy otherwise, but if there is something I can do to prevent any
further stress, then I wanted to get ahead of the game.
<Everything looks good. I am sure when you replace the light that everything
will be back to normal. It may move a bit but it looks healthy otherwise.>
Thanks in advance for all the help!!
Thanks!!!!
<You’re welcome. –Yunachin>
Rachael |
There is a Euphyllia to the right... RMF |
Anemone
Health and Systems – 4/24/08
My BTA is deflating in a very alarming way since Saturday morning. I
understand they can deflate to defecate but this is not it. I've had the
BTA for 3 months now and she has never acted this way. She is deflating
with mouth wide open.
<This is not good!>
I can see her cavity empty. She is releasing a very thick gel (no poo)
She will remain like this for the next 3-4 hours and come back to life.
When she does, especially during night time, she gets very enlarged
(over inflated) tips bubbled up, not normal for her.
<It is not uncommon for this species to have bubbled tips some times and
not at other times.>
The water parameters are PH 8.0-8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrates 0, the hard
Nitrates 0.5 (just fed 2 hrs ago) the KH 10. The GH text never works for
me but today is the schedule water change. There are a few factors to
consider so I need your help. First, I did a Blackout on 4/12 for 40
hours to control algae bloom.
<What is causing the algae bloom?>
After that my largest Clownfish changed behavior. He is the only
clownfish that was purchased at a store. He (or should I say She) is
projecting dominance towards my other clownfish. These acts of dominance
are staged on the anemone. Can the clownfish be roughing up the BTA?
<Yes.>
Could she be repelling the fish?
<It looks to be starving and slightly bleached. What have you been
feeding?>
On Friday I moved my small Hammer coral 5 inches down from the BTA who
sits in the top of a cave. The BTA did not show any signs of harm or
stress. See April 18 pic.
<You have only sent April 23 pictures.>
On that day I also change the power head that is pointed in the
direction of the BTA (on 15min intervals). It is a stronger power head
than the last one.
<Be careful with powerheads. I don’t recommend there use in a tank with
anemones. If your anemone starts to wander, which is a likely event, it
will be shredded.>
Because she looked fine around 5pm, I decided to meet with my clownfish
breeder to get more fish. I had 4, one died and soon after the
aggression began.
<You will have aggression with more than one pair of clownfish. Only one
pair per tank unless you have a system of a few hundred gallons or more.
Even with a few hundred gallons, there is no guarantee that the
clownfish will get along.>
That Saturday night I also purchased some frags a Xenia and a Frogspawn
from the breeder. When I came home to add the new species the BTA looked
normal. I positioned the Frogspawn 3 inches from the Hammer coral who
immediately released thin streaks of gel.
<How did you acclimate?>
It was late at night and I didn't pay any attention to it and went to
bed. Next morning the corals look great but the anemone didn't. After
finding out the chemical war I probably initiated between the two
corals, I moved the Frogspawn to the other end of the tank. Still, the
BTA shriveled up and released gel the next day. Can the corals be
causing the problem?
<They are not helping.>
The BTA is fed Mysis and little shrimps.
<You may want to try small portions of Silversides soaked in Selcon.>
By accident we fed the anemone 4 times last week (boyfriend forgot to
check the feeding calendar I keep on the fridge) I normally place the
shrimp on the tentacles next to the mouth and she picks it up if
desired. Apparently she desired all 4 times.
<Is there anything stealing its food?>
To add to it...On Monday night my mother in-law got me a Sebae Anemone.
It is sitting in the opposite side of the tank, attached and looking
great. I don't know if my tank is big enough to keep both.
<It is not recommended to keep different species of anemones in the same
tank.>
I will get a smaller tank to keep it separate if needed.
<This tank needs to be a well established environment for an anemone.
Six months to one year of age is the recommendation.>
I have a 120g tank that has been running since Nov 07, skimmer, sump, 3
power heads and VHO light system.
<Your tank wasn’t ready for an anemone. This is adding to the problems.
I recommend using Metal Halide Lighting or some T-5 with individual
reflectors on a tank of this depth. This may be part of the anemones
problem.>
The BTA was added to the tank 3 months ago Hammer Coral in tank for 3
weeks Neon green Nephthea in tank for 1 month Frogspawn Coral and Xenia
and a small frag of Porites coral were added on Saturday night
Sebae anemone, blue hippo tang and new small frag of pink polyps were
added Monday night (gift from the in-laws).
7 Clownfish (one died before the blackout)
<Yikes! That is a lot of clownfish! Five of them need to find new
homes.>
Yellow Tang
Blue Hippo Tang
Snowflake Eel...don't ask :)
<You really need to research your live stock before you purchase and add
to your system.>
I added pics from this morning changes 10am and 2pm. I will appreciate
ANY advice you can give specially in the landscaping area.
<More live rock would help. You don’t have nearly enough for a 120
gallon system.>
As you can see, it's very difficult for me to plan the landscape based
on species, temperament, light and water flow.
<This becomes easier in time with a lot of research. More information on
anemones found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm >
Thank you
<You’re welcome! Brenda> |
|

 |
E. quadricolor, BTA Health –
4/24/08
Hi Crew,
<Hello, Brenda here! >
We have a local reefer who was sold a "rainbow" BTA that I'm calling out as
bleached.
<There is no such thing as a “rainbow” BTA. Yes, this anemone is definitely
bleached. >
I'm trying to give some tips on care (heavier than normal feeding, low to
moderate light) and I'd like your opinion on it as well, and appreciate it:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k133/lishoop6/Jeannastank4-22-08001.jpg
<Heavy feeding will only cause more stress on this animal. Over feeding will
cause regurgitation, leaving the anemone with nothing. I recommend feeding small
portions soaked in Selcon daily. What lighting is this anemone being kept under?
More information found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonehealthfaqs.htm
Brenda >
|
E. quadricolor, New Tank
Issues – 11/14/07
Hello once again!
<Hello Ryan, Brenda here>
I have yet another question for you.
<Not a problem!>
It never ends, does it?
<No, but this is how we all learn, and why we are here.>
Thanks for all your great help so far and hopefully you can help me out with
this interesting situation?
<I’ll try!>
I recently moved my bubble tip anemone and its clone to a new tank. The new tank
was setup with existing live rock and water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae.
<This is not an instant cycle. This creature needs an established environment,
including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6 months, one year is best.>
Everything has been going well, except the endless walking around the tank.
<It is not happy.>
Different flow and lights will cause that.
<The new tank is likely the cause.>
Yesterday I came home from work and found something interesting. The anemones
had been fed the day before and looked a little unhappy.
<What are you feeding it?>
I took a look and found something interesting? I've posted this on three forums
and no one has responded, which, in my opinion means no one has an answer? Today
the anemones look much happier and the "egg sac" in the attached picture is
gone. After I took the picture last night I noticed the tentacle started to tear
open but I did not stay up late enough to see if anything was released? I added
some carbon and did a water change just in case something in the tank was off.
<You need to keep a close eye on your water parameters.>
Thanks for looking, Ryan.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
It is just to the right of the mouth.
<Yes, I see this.>
Any ideas?
<Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here is a link to a thread that
shows eggs inside of an anemone. The pictures in this thread are amazing.
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a good article to
read: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm As far as what
is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to me like one of its
tentacles has become injured or irritated. What are the tank mates, including
fish, corals and invertebrates? Have you noticed anything bothering it? Are
there any possibilities that salt accumulated somewhere and dropped into the
tank, landing on the anemone? What are your water parameters? How long has this
tank been up and running? Did you transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how
long did you leave it cycle before adding the livestock?
Thanks again.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor,
New Tank Issues – 11/15/07
Hi Brenda, thanks for the reply.
<Hello Ryan, and you’re welcome!>
You are not going to like this?
<Yikes!>
I did the entire change over in one day!
<Ouch!>
After asking many people if it would be OK if I used existing live rock
and water as well as some Chaeto, they all said yes.
<No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.>
So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were fine
until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp I've fed for
over a year. My ammonia was a little high the day after and I'm assuming
that one or both of the anemones did not eat their "dinner", causing the
higher ammonia.
<The ammonia spike is caused by the cycle. This is extremely toxic to
anemones.>
I did a water change to fix the problem, a rather large water change and
after that they both looked fine. Here are the water parameters, ammonia
0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10 DKH,
salinity 1.025, temp. 79....I think that's it.
<I do recommend a salinity of 1.026 for anemones.>
The tank has a couple of frags that were attached to the live rock,
Montipora and that is it, no other corals or fish....oh other than the
one Palythoa hijacker. Please let me know if there is a way I can fix
this situation?
<I suggest getting the anemones out of there for a while. See if you can
find someone local to take it in. If you are starting with a new sand
bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6 months. If you transferred the old
sand bed, it will take less time, but I can’t give you an exact time
frame. It could take a few weeks, or even a few months. There are too
many variables. You will need to keep checking your water parameters.
Once everything has been stable for a while, you can put the anemones
back in.>
I assure you I did a lot of questioning before I went ahead with this
move and everyone said it was fine. Now I need your help, please. I did
not check the links yet because I'm in a bit of a rush and trying to
catch you today rather than tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor,
New Tank Issues – 11/16/07
Thank you Brenda!
<You’re Welcome!>
Sorry to keep this going back and forth with you.
<No need to be sorry!>
The sand is new, I thought I was saving myself cycling issues by doing
this rather than using old "dirty" sand, apparently I was wrong.
<Even when using old sand, there will still be a cycle.>
I have little trust in others in my area, I work at a LFS but don't want
my anemones there because they cram them all in one little tank.
<Ouch! I know what you mean! When visiting a LFS, I first look at how
they treat their anemones. I can’t count how many times I’ve left
feeling sick! I have found very few LFS that provide an adequate
environment for this creature.>
I don't know anyone else (local) with a tank that would be suited to
keep anemones.
<Wish I could help, I would gladly take the anemones in for a while if
you were local.>
So that being said I would prefer to try and fix the problem by myself.
I watch things very carefully and hopefully I can pull this off? I have
a SPS reef tank that has been doing great for over a year (started it
before that). Here's what I've been doing. I'm making 5 gallons of new
saltwater per day, letting it rest (with a pump) for a day, adding that
to my reef tank, then I take 5 gallons out of my reef tank and change 5
gallons on my anemone tank.
<This is a waste of effort in my opinion. You simply can not create an
instant cycle. Your new tank needs time to cycle. Dirty water is not the
solution. Once your tank has cycled it will still not be an adequate
environment for anemones.>
Not the best method but hopefully this will get me through this 6 month
period? I know you are not going to be all that fond of this idea.
<No, I’m not fond at all, neither are the anemones. They need an
established environment, no less than 6 months, no short cuts here.>
Do you think it is possible to keep my anemones if I continue to do
this?
<It is a possibility, but not a probability, also not fair to the
anemones to be kept in such an environment.>
My other option would be to somehow get them back in my reef tank.
<This would be my choice, with a slow drip acclimation to reduce added
stress.>
I would prefer not to lose my corals. That is an option that I would
rather not go for.
<Were the anemones in the SPS tank previously? Were there problems that
made you decide to move them, roaming, etc.? I keep anemones with SPS,
and have had no issues. My anemones do not roam, and I keep the SPS away
from the anemones. Granted, this is not a guarantee that they won’t roam
someday. Can you tell me more about your SPS tank? Size, equipment,
livestock, water parameters, amount of flow, RO or RO/DI water, is there
room for the anemones?
I appreciate your help a lot. Please try and see things from my point of
view on this.
<I do, (and the anemones view) we’ve all made mistakes.>
I am doing my best to keep them happy. I guess I should have emailed you
first, before I made the transfer. By the way both anemones look very
healthy and happy!
<This may not be long term.>
Thanks so much, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor,
New Tank Issues... Brenda! Refer Ryan! – 11/16/07
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Ryan!>
Thanks again!
<You’re welcome!>
The anemones were in the SPS tank before but the two used to be one, it
split and then both started roaming.
<Both are a sign of stress.>
They are also very large so their tentacles swaying in the current (lots
of flow) were causing problems with my corals and clam.
<Yes, that is a problem!>
I use RO/DI water, have 4000 gph of flow (90 gallon tank),
<That is a lot of flow, likely too much for anemones.>
a EuroReef skimmer, Kalk reactor, refugium with a DSB and Chaeto, 500
watts of metal halide lighting (10K), 100+ pounds of live rock, 30
gallon sump, etc.
<Nice equipment!!!>
My water parameters in the SPS tank are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate
1.5, calcium 400, DKH 11, Ph 8.3, temp. 79, SG 1.025-1.026.....I think I
got all of those? My SPS tank is packed full of corals and my main
concern is the anemones wandering or letting loose of the live rock and
floating into a Tunze powerhead.
<I don’t recommend the use of powerheads with anemones. If you must use
them, they need to be covered with something to protect the anemone.>
I can provide you a link to a picture to show you my tank so you get a
feel for how packed it is. My other thought was putting them in the
refugium but then I would have to buy an additional light and most
likely keep that light on at the same time my tank lights are on (not
sure why I think that?).
<I don’t know why you think that either. I recommend the refugium light
to be on at opposite times of the main tank. Placing the anemones in the
sump (with proper lighting) is an option as long as you can be sure the
anemones are protected from all pumps. Anemones going through a pump can
wipe out an entire system. Without seeing your set up or knowing how
much flow is going through it, I really can’t recommend it.>
I certainly want to keep the anemones happy so I'll do what I need to.
I'm also wondering if there would be a safe way to connect the two tanks
for a period of 6 months. I cannot drill the tank, it's brand new
acrylic and cost enough that I would not feel comfortable putting a
temporary hole in it.
<I don’t blame you. What size/type tank is your new one? How close is it
to the old one? What lighting do you have on it? Do you have any old
tanks around that you could temporarily connect to the established tank,
a 20 gallon or so? I do suggest running carbon, and frequent water
changes when mixing coral and anemones. The initial problems you
experienced may have been caused by chemical warfare, along with too
much flow.>
I really appreciate all your help. Here's a picture so you can see what
I'm dealing with.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1508.jpg
<Yes, a bit crowded for anemones.>
I guess the other option would be to cage them in with some egg crate
until they are attached and happy?
<There are no guarantees that creating a cage will create happiness. I
believe there is simply too much flow in your main tank, and possibly
chemical warfare. In the mean time, take a cup or two of sand out of
your established tank, and start seeding your new tank.>
Thanks once again, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor,
New Tank Issues – 11/17/07
Thanks Brenda!
<You’re welcome>
Wow the longest running WWM FAQ ever....I'm joking. I do have extra
tanks but connecting them safely would be an issue. The only way I could
do that is to have a pump in the main tank and a pump in the connected
tank, both pumping water back and forth, we both know you should not do
that. The refugium may work. I have no pumps in the Fuge, just a feed
pump from a different area of the sump which supplies clean water and
lower flow. I would need to upgrade the lighting but other than that I
think that may work. Here's what I'm going to do today. Take some sand
out of the refugium, add it to the anemone tank, take a large amount of
Chaeto and add that to the anemone tank as well. I am also going to try
and add some flow without having a pump directly in the tank with the
anemones. I think they miss the flow. Both settled in a very high flow
location in my reef tank so maybe that's what they're looking for.
<They are suffering from being placed in a non-cycled/non-established
tank. It is important that you get them out of there. This is not only
very stressful on anemones, but also one of the leading causes of death
in captivity.>
I'll assume this will be the last email about this, so once again thanks
so much for all your help. I'll give you an update in a month or so.
Thanks, Ryan.
<Good luck to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank
Issues – 4/7/08
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Ryan! It has been a while! >
I hope you’re the one who gets this?
<Sorry for the delay, I’ve been out for a few days. >
I wanted to let you know everything with the two anemones is going well, no
issues at all. It was a little rough at the start but after a month or so
everything seemed to cool off.
<Keep an eye on them. You are just approaching the 6-month mark. The stress that
the move has caused them over the last few months could cause them to rapidly
decline if there is even a slight problem. >
The anemones have not moved in months and are very happy in their new home.
<Good to hear! >
I seem to have a bit of a nutrient issue which caused a population of Aiptasia
to explode, but other than that everything is going really well.
<You’ll want to get that under control. Aiptasia can sting BTAs.>
I recently bought a used AquaC Remora skimmer, which will help with the nutrient
load.
<Awesome product! Keep the pump away from the anemones. >
I know you thought and insisted this could not be done, but with frequent water
changes and careful feeding I seem to have accomplished something most
apparently cannot?
<My thoughts have not changed. It is very stressful on the anemones, unfair, and
often deadly. See the before and after pictures that you submitted below. >
I also added 2 black and white clowns (tank bred), which love the anemones!
<Adorable clownfish! >
Here is a picture of the happy anemones and their happy clowns.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
<It looks like they have lost quite a bit of color (zooxanthellae) since this
picture that you sent me in November:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
This really shows just how stressful the last few months have been on them. If
there are no more problems, they should continue to recover.>
Thanks for all your help!! You’re welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank
Issues – 4/8/08
<Hello Ryan!>
Thanks for the concern and pointing out the color difference to me, but I think
I have an explanation of why they looked so bright before?
<Okay.>
That picture, the one from November was taken when the lights were off using
flash and possibly a flashlight. The color from the flash or flashlight is much
more yellow than the color from the lights on the tank. The reason I took that
picture at that time was because it was the only time the anemone was deflated
enough to see the weird egg shaped tentacle. I'm not saying this was a brilliant
idea to put the anemones in a new tank and I hope things continue to work out
the way they have.
<I hope so too. However, this photo
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg leads me to
believe this anemone has not completely regained its health. >
The lighting they were in before was 500 watts of metal halide and now they are
under 130 watts of PC lighting.
<What size tank are they in now?>
Maybe that caused a difference in color as well?
<Lighting does play a role in coloration. However, I’m seeing some white and
some areas that look a bit transparent.>
They have been eating when I feed, which has been very sparingly so far and
appear to be perfectly happy?
<Try feeding some small portions of silversides soaked in Selcon, and feeding
more often.>
I really hope I'm not wrong and this continues to work out?
<With an adequate environment, they will continue to improve.>
About the skimmer, it's located in a back chamber of the tank; the tank has an
internal filtration system so everything is hidden behind the overflow which
should prevent any damage to the anemones from pumps.
<Great!>
Thanks for all your help and if you would like I can give you another update in
a month or two?
<That would be great!>
Thanks again, Ryan
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
|
BTA anemone.... hlth.
3/30/08
I Just want to make sure my BTA is ok.
<Hi, Mike I here with you today>
I had a GBTA shipped to me it looked great the first day. It was acclimated
properly all of my parameters are ok according to Salifert tests
<You don't list them, so cant comment>
My salinity is 23 with a refractometer.
<This could do with being pushed up slowly over time to around 1.025/6
I have a 180 g with 30 g sump at least 100# live rock. It 's been up for over a
year I have a G+4 skimmer with recirc mod and a canister carbon filter. Lighting
is 3 250w MH 4 96w compact actinic and moon lighting all on timers coralline
power heads and 1200 maxi jets with the impeller mod.s There is no coral yet can
I have Acans with a BTA?
<Other have, and providing you're skimmer is adequately sized for your tank, and
perhaps you run a little carbon frequently, there should be no issues>
Fish are tangs, true Percs gobies and a 6 line. My question is it shriveled a
lot but is still bright green It doesn't open all the way not much for balls on
the tips. it did the first day I also left the MH off the first day)
<It's common for anemones to take a little while longer after initial
acclimation to settle, deflation and re-inflation, providing it does not go on
into 2 weeks I wouldn't initially be concerned with the information you have
provided. However, if something is off in your water quality, then could be
linked>
It secured itself to one of my overflows but what is all the white slime? I
removed the slime is it poop?
<I don't know without a picture. It not common for white slime to slough off
anemones, only when they are in the final stages of decomposition.>
It has some dark balls in it looks almost like spider webs is it digesting
<Dark balls/spiders web, hmmm, the only thing I can think of regarding dark
balls is that BTAs can brood eggs/sperm and release fertilised planulae - not
likely in this case however. Again a picture would help>
I fed it a silver side the second day I have had it for about 5 days opens more
under the moon lights than it has during the day.
<Again, not uncommon while it adjusts to your lighting regime, which may be
considerably more than it has been used to of late>
I just want to make sure It survives. The Percs love it. I let it go in the
current and place it self and have not moved it. Thanks for the help
<Firstly, please run your question through a spell check before sending if
possible, and don't forget punctuation - it makes it much easier for us to deal
with your queries. I recommend you start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and
then the linked indices on BTAs starting perhaps here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
I'm concerned to hear you animal has settled near overflows - do be careful;
these are very delicately bodies animals and can tear/injure easily. This goes
for the powerheads you mention too. make sure they are covered/protected so the
animal cannot hurt itself. Do write back if you have any extra information as
requested, or if we can help further. Good luck! Mike I>
Re: BTA anemone 4/1/08
It doesn’t look like it is decomposing. It is mostly open today. I was just
wondering what the white slime was. I can't take a picture of it cause I took
the slime out there was a lot of it all around the anemone thanks.
<Hi Tayler! Mike I again. The only thing I can think of
could be the animals own mucus that sometimes comes from handling. If it
reoccurs do take a picture, but if not, it may be nothing to worry about. Good
luck, and watch those powerheads! Mike I>
Re: E.
quadricolor, BTA, Hiding, Acclimation – 3/16/08
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Akila!>
Thanks for your reply.
<You’re welcome!>
I add the baking soda just to maintain the pH as mentioned in Dr. Bob
Fenner’s Marine Aquarist book under maintaining pH (p.130). My pH is
within the safe limits I guess.
<Just be careful not to add too much too fast. Anemones do not do well
with a sudden change. Add it gradually.>
And yes I use the Compact Florescent lights - CFL. Each has 125W, 1250
Im, 6500K & 50/60 Hz. I have 4 lights that totals up to 500W & 5000.
This is being used on a tank that is 27 inches deep, 37 inches long and
18 inches wide. Do you think it is adequate???
<Yes, I believe it is, especially if the anemone has enough rock that it
can climb to higher levels if it needs to.>
I keep my temperature at 25C - 26C (78.8F) and the salinity at 0.024.
<Increase salinity to 1.026 gradually by topping off daily with
pre-mixed saltwater.>
As I live in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) I bought the anemone directly from a
collector and probably it was collected couple of days back. When I saw
the anemone it was in a small tank with starfish and the place was
pretty dark and the anemone was a little bit shrunken up. After directly
putting it to the tank, only a day later the anemone got 3 times bigger
than it actually was. Is this a good sign or a
bad sign???
<Anemones will shrink to expel waste and to acclimate themselves to
their environment. If this is happening often, it is a bad sign.
However, since this anemone has only been in your system a few days, I
don’t see reason to be alarmed.>
And I do not keep any corals except some dead ones.
<Okay.>
Today half of the anemone came out but the other half was still under
the rock. The entire day it was like that. During the day time the
anemone got real big on the side that came out and the tentacles were
long and reaching upwards. But at night it again went to hiding and also
became 3 times smaller. Why is this change in size??? Is it a sign of
bad health??? Or bad conditions??? Shall I take it out from there and
close that hole with some stones.
<No.>
Because I can't even feed the anemone when its hiding as I can't reach
its month opening.
<I don’t recommend touching the mouth.>
Is it possible to keep some bits of shrimp meat on the tentacles. Is it
possible to feed it like that???
<You bet! This is the best way to feed in my opinion. Hopefully the
anemone is healthy enough to be able to hold on to the food. If not,
place food near the mouth, without touching the anemone.>
I'll get some pictures of the anemone tomorrow and mail you.
<Great!>
I'll also buy another pH test kit along with Calcium and Alkalinity kits
and send that data to you also if the kits are available at the LFS.
Thanks, Best regards. Akila
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Akila!>
I have attached some pictures.
<It appears that you have two anemones! This would explain why it went
into hiding. Stress! Anemones do split in two when they are stressed,
resulting in two anemones. Collection is enough to stress an anemone
enough that it will clone itself. More information here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonereprofaqs.htm
>
I have another problem. I tested my water for dKH and Calcium. I have 15
- 16dkh & 370 - 380mg/l. Can this be right???
<It could be. What test kits are you using? Are you adding anything for
calcium and magnesium? For now, stop adding additives. There is more
information here regarding Calcium and Alkalinity:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Best regards, Akila
<Brenda>
E. quadricolor, BTA, Hiding,
Acclimation – 3/14/08
Dear Mr. Bob Fenner
<Hello Akila, Brenda here this time!>
I have wrote to you a lot of times and you guys have been a real help to me over
the years.
<Good to hear!>
I appreciate your advice with regards to what I am facing now. Some details of
my 80G tank would be, I have 1 large canister filter (works as a refugium for
me), 2 power filters (1500lph each), protein skimmer, UV sterilizer 5W, Compact
Florescent lighting 6500K - 400W,
<Are you sure this is compact florescent lighting?>
& Chiller. My pH is 8.2-8.4(can't figure out the exact color from the chart),
Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate <10. I do a 20% water change every month.
<I recommend 10% weekly.>
I also add 4 - 5 teaspoons of baking soda every month along with the water
change to maintain my pH.
<Are you testing before adding this? Are you gradually adding the baking soda?>
I don't have fish in my tank at the moment due to some problems with lifted
temperature that finally led me to buy a chiller. The tank is cycled and I ran
it for 2 years with no problems. I currently have 3 tube worms, grape macro
algae (I forgot the name of the algae), and some sails. After adding the BTA
(Rose) 2 days ago it is hiding under a cavity inside my rock work. It did not
come out for a day. I read a lot of FAQs on your site and learned that this
could be normal until it gets settled in but is there any other parameters or
something else I need to check.
<Yes, what is your temperature and salinity? How did you acclimate this
anemone?>
Do I need to get any other equipment or something to make it feel more
comfortable?
<Do you know any history on this anemone? Was it recently shipped? What kind of
lighting was it kept under previously?>
I don't understand why it is hiding inside a rock.
<I wouldn’t be overly concerned just yet. This anemone may be acclimating itself
to its new environment. Placing an anemone into a new environment is stressful.
>
Thought they liked bright lighting???
<They do, but I’m not convinced you have extremely powerful lighting.>
Can the tube worms be a problem???
<No. Do you have any coral in the tank? If so, what?>
Also how can I increase the calcium level in my tank. I heard the tube worms
like more calcium in the water???
<Your LFS should have the additives you need. I do recommend researching before
you start adding chemicals. Here is a good place to start:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Thanks in advance for your advice,
Best regards, Akila
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
|
|
 |
Sick Anemone / Possible unknown
toxic conditions... Allelopathy, light, lack of HPO4... – 03/13/08
Hello WetWebMedia Crew,
<Brad>
First of all your website is amazing. The wealth of information is so
useful. I have been struggling to find the cause of my problems for
weeks now and I'm finally just going to ask your help.
First of all my 75 gallon SW tank w/ a 20 gallon sump underneath has
been set up for about 11 months.
Currently in my sump i have:
about 10 lbs of rubble
Chaetomorpha macro algae
8 mangroves floating (have had for month and a half...just starting to
grow new roots)
<... Mmm, these may prove problematical with time, growth...>
700 GPH Mag Drive return pump w/ 500 GPH actual
Whisper 20-40 gallon hang on mechanical filter which i use to run
phosphate resin pads
<... these may be an issue>
and Chemi-Pure
18' 10,000k Daylight bulb
6500 k long lasting bulb from Wal-mart
<... this as well>
Also my sump is connected to a 5 gallon bucket
<What is this made/composed of?>
with filled w/ a deep sand
bed probably 3/4 of the way full
In the 75 gallon tank i have:
about 60lbs of live rock
an inch of live sand
2 Hydro Koralia 1's at 400 GPH
1 Hydro Koralia 3 at 850 GPH
SeaClone Protein Skimmer rated for up to 100 gal
<Uh, no... I'd upgrade here>
Whisper 20-40 gallon hang on mechanical filter which i use to run
phosphate resin pads and Chemi-Pure
4 46.5' VHO Two Super Actinic R's, 1 Actinic white 50/50 12,000K, and 1
Aqua sun 10,000K replaced about 5.5 months ago
<I'd replace, get rid, cycle out anything called actinic... see WWM re.>
My inhabitants include
1 Green/Brown bubble Tip anemone
Mushroom Coral
A few Green button polyps
A couple of clusters of Zoanthids
1 Ocellaris Clown
1 Yellow Tang
1 Engineer goby
2 Peppermint Shrimp
2 Cleaner Shrimp
2 Emerald Crabs
4 blue legged hermit crabs
2 electric blue hermit crabs
2 unknown small hermit crabs
1 unknown large hermit crab
2 Turbo snails
4 Cerith snails
4 Astrea snails
2 more snails (i can't remember what their called)
Water Quality on average for the last 4 months:
Ammonia (API) 0
Nitrite (Tetratest) 0
Nitrate (API) 10-12.5
Calcium (API) 400-420
KH (Tetratest) 12-14
PH 8.3
Salinity 1.024-1.025
My water is RO/DI free from a friend. I do 10 gallon water change every
3 weeks and top off water every 3 days which i also add iodine 8 drops
(Kent Marine), Iron 8 drops (Kent Marine), Trace Elements 8 drops (Kent
Marine), check my alkalinity (Seachem reef builder supplement), check my
pH, and check my calcium (Kent Marine supplement).
<I'd switch to SeaChem>
All this started a couple of weeks ago when i noticed that my 3 stripped
damsels where too aggressive for the newly added ocellaris pair. I
decided that i needed to give the damsels back to the fish shop where i
bought them and had to take out most of my live rock to do this. I
finally got them out and my clowns started hosting my BTA (I have had
him a month and a half at this point) immediately and all seemed well.
Then about a week later the clown pair stopped hosting the anemone, they
just ignored it for a few days then mysteriously one of the clown fish
started mouth breathing and i noticed one white lump on his head. Within
12 hours he was dead (i had him for two weeks exactly). Shortly after (a
couple of days) the clown's death i noticed the BTA's tentacles where
changing shape (pic: anemone health). I watched the anemone closely and
he did not really get in better or any worse. Then a few days later my
tank developed an algae bloom.
My friend told me it was b/c i stirred up my sand and probably had a
little die off from removing most of my rock from the tank. I started
learning about Diatom algae and how to control it and found that it is
more of a silicate problem
<Unlikely>
then a phosphate problem and that it needs plenty of Nitrate and plenty
of red light. By this time my anemone had moved to underneath his rock
and was acting like he was uncomfortable. I noticed that he had little
nodules on his tentacles (anemone health 1-5)
<I see these>
and was not inflating like usual. My Zoanthids and button polyps where
all closed up with little strings of diatom algae hanging of them.
<A clue...>
I did a 10 gallon water change and scraped the algae off of everything.
The polyps and Zoanthids opened up a little but soon closed right back
up. So i started searching around on your site to see if i could find
anything about the condition of the anemone and possibly to see if high
phosphates or silicates could cause such this burning scaring on his
tentacles. I searched Google as well and even for pictures but could not
find any information on anemone diseases or toxic reactions except that
their is not much known and no way to really treat them. The anemone has
plenty of circulation, decent light,
<Mmm, maybe>
and before he showed signs of stress i was feeding him about 2 times a
week (brine shrimp mostly-I know not very nutritious-have switched to
Mysis Shrimp-will buy Selcon). So i decided to run Chemi-Pure to my tank
in case some toxin had gotten into the water and to do a 20 gallon water
change.
After the water change the anemone looked a little better but since then
(5 days ago) he has gotten much worse. I read online that if the anemone
has any openings or tears in their tentacles they are decaying. So i
picked up the rock out of my tank and smelled him but he does not smell
bad and he still inflates a little during the light hours. I noticed
that he has been puckering his lips a lot too. I did another 10 gallon
water change today with some distilled water i bought for Wal-mart
thinking that maybe my friends RO/DI unit needs new cartridges. I also
replaced the Chemi-Pure which had a bad odor as well as my phosphate
resin pads. I also stopped adding supplements into the tank except for
iodine, calcium and reefbuilder.
I took some advice from your site and bought an iodine/iodide test kit.
Tested it yesterday and found that it is .01 mg/L which is low so I'm
slowly bringing the concentration back up.
Also something i forgot to mention probably about 4 weeks ago i noticed
my shrimp had all developed little black dots on them. I read that this
is commonly due to either high or low concentration of iodine?
<Can be related or not>
All the livestock is perfectly fine right now. The ocellaris is a little
stressed and i noticed he is a little reluctant to eat spectrum Thera
pellets (he has eaten in the past) i have been feeding the past two
days.
<Also possibly related>
Also i have little micro bubbles coming into the water from my Whisper
20-40 hang on filter recently as well as my protein skimmer. Is this ok?
Is their any potential threats to the livestock from tiny air bubbles
being blown all around the tank by power heads.
<Likely not an issue, factor>
I'm wondering if my whole problem is iodine in regards to my anemone?
<Mmm, no>
Would a combination of low iodine levels, high nitrate levels, and the
presence of phosphate / silicate cause these kinds of symptoms?.
<Actually, the lack of presence of soluble HPO4 is likely a contributing
cause...>
Could the tiny little air bubbles be hurting the anemones tentacles?
From what you see in the pictures is my anemone decaying alive? If this
was your aquarium what would you do next?
Thank you so much for taking your time to read through this and helping
me out. I'm really at a loss right now as far as what to do.
Let me know if you can't open the pictures i attached with this email?
brad
<Likely the root issue here is allelopathy. Read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
but the phosphate pads should be removed... and you should do a bit of
reading re Entacmaea on WWM... measure the quantity, quality of light...
The best short/er term solution is to move the Actinarian elsewhere...
as you'll see by reading. Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
BTA Health Issue?
Failing Anemone, Lack of Lighting, Use of Copper in Reef Tank – 2/20/08
Hey Crew, Steve here.
<Hello Steve, Brenda here today!>
This is my first time posting a questions so hopefully it goes through
all right.
<It sure has!>
I have a BTA problem. I have a 55 gallon tank that has been set up for 2+ years.
About 3 weeks ago I thought I'd change to stronger lighting and try out some
inverts and soft corals. Here are the specs of the tank: 55 gal All-Glass
aquarium, Satellite 48 inch with lunar lights and two SmartTag 65 Watt
10,000K/460nm actinic bulbs,
<130 watts of PC lighting is not enough to support an anemone in a 55 gallon
tank.>
80 lbs live rock (in there for at least a year, crushed coral substrate, Top Fin
60 tank mounted filter (media changed one month ago), Protein skimmer that moves
295 gph,
<What protein skimmer is this?>
heater and glass hoods. It should also be noted that the tank is in the sun for
about 6 hours a day. Fish included are one Ocellaris (currently changing to
female I believe, started eating like crazy and getting territorial, she head
butts my hand every time I put it in the water), and a snowflake moray
(currently 12" long). So now to my question, I bought a Condylactis gigantea
about 2.5 weeks ago that seemed to be doing well. I had 1.5 watts per gal when I
got him then upgraded about a week later. I then bought a healthy BTA with a
3.5" diameter from the LFS.
<I don’t recommend keeping mixed anemone species in a tank less than a few
hundred gallons.>
I bought the rock that he was attached to in the store to reduce the chance of
injury in the move. I got it into my tank and it opened up well. I then got a
green mandarin that I lost after 2 days (despite copepod supplement). I then
lost the Condy a few days later. The water levels after losing them were great
except the nitrates were a bit high and pH was a bit low; so I did a 10% water
change then did a 5% water change the next day and added marine pH buffer. The
next day (yesterday) the BTA was shrunken a bit so I tested the water these were
my results: pH 8.35, Salinity 1.023,
<The Salinity is much too low for an anemone. Slowly increase it to 1.026.>
Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 0 ppm, Temperature 79.5 degrees. I was
confused to say the least. He is expunging more waste than I thought he had in
his body.
<What are you feeding and what sized portions. It may be regurgitating.>
Right when I got him the waste was the milky photosynthetic waste but this waste
is the fluffy balled variety with white dots in it. The mouth seems to be wide
open all the time, expelling waste almost constantly.
<This anemone is failing quickly.>
I put in Reef Solution yesterday to give him some filterable food but I only
feed him twice a week (a nice ball of Mysis). The Moray is such a messy eater
that the BTA picks up brine shrimp scraps all the time.
<Anemone eat meaty foods. The Reef Solution will not benefit the anemone. Brine
shrimp his little or no nutrition and is also not recommended for an anemone.>
The tentacles on the BTA are getting shorter and stubbier, as well as getting
very pointy at the ends, sort of like a Christmas light shape.
He has lost all sorts of body mass but has darkened in color.
<The short, stubby tentacles may be sign of starvation. Can you send me a
picture of the anemone?>
I was told that the "plant" part of the animal was starting to take over now
that the lights were strong and that he was developing a sort of "sun-tan."
<I assume you mean zooxanthellae, which is the algae that lives inside them.
Anemones do not get suntans. Was the anemone bleached when you got it?>
They also told me that the pointed tentacles were a way of minimizing direct
light to them because it was causing sunburn.
<This is not true. Healthy anemones will find a new location when they are
unhappy with the light. >
The neon green he is turning seems to support this because I assume that it is
reflective algae that he is growing.
<Zooxanthellae. >
He hasn't really moved at all and is still shrinking.
<It sounds like it is starving, and my not have enough energy to move. >
He is still spitting out fluff-balls of waste and only has one or two tentacles
truly open at a time. I got up today and two of the tentacles that were open
really big all day yesterday were clear looking and seemed dead. It is also
probably pertinent that I treated icky 1 year ago with straight copper (when the
tank was still fish only) but I would assume that that is not the cause of any
problems because of the small dose I administered and the water changes I have
done since then.
<Yikes! Did you have live rock in there at the time? If so, your rock may be
leaching copper into the tank. Copper should never be used in the main display.
It needs to be used in a quarantine tank only. The anemone will not survive long
with copper. >
The clown and moray are eating and acting as healthy as ever. What is wrong with
my BTA?
<You have a few things going on here. I would start by testing your water for
copper.>
Sincerely, Steve B.
<Brenda>
|
Injured Anemone, Will it
survive? E. quadricolor – 1/18/08
Hi WWM crew and thanks for several years of good advice for weird
situations.
<Hello Tracy, Brenda here, and you are welcome!>
I have another question for you.
<Okay!>
Context - 7 yr old stable 150gal reef w/ 10,000K MH lighting and no real
problems for a long time. Blennies, gobies, clown, mushrooms, a few SPS, yellow
polyp forest, pulsing xenia that reproduce so madly they pay half my maintenance
costs.
<A lot of mushrooms?>
Crisis - My rose BTA (favorite thing in the whole tank, had it 18 months, grew
~10x in size in that time, skunk clown lives in it) had
some sort of horrible, unexplained accident yesterday. I found it in the
overflow box with a piece (~15%) torn off.
<The anemone was not happy. It was looking for a better place.>
The mouth appears badly damaged, the pedicle is fine, and tentacles are fine.
The small piece is really small, has only 5-10 tentacles on it & is mostly a
blown up balloon. I put both pieces in my refugium, assuming it was going to die
quickly but wanting to give it a chance.
<Many anemones survive this type of injury, including going through powerheads.
Protect all of your intakes. The recovery process will depend greatly on the
health of the anemone before its injury. I do recommend a water change if you
haven’t already.>
Well, this morning, all the tentacles are out and beautiful. The damage is still
very severe, but neither piece is dying quickly.
<I’m not surprised.>
I am wondering where and how (if?) to try to rehabilitate it.
<Provide it with pristine water parameters and time.>
My refugium has only a PCF bulb (can't remember the wattage). I replace it every
year, it is bright enough to sustain an insanely thick garden of Caulerpa, but I
doubt it's bright enough for an anemone.
<No it is not. However, the anemone will be ok for a few days without sufficient
light. Moving it again will cause more stress. For now, let us try to figure out
why it moved in the first place. Also, keep it away from all pumps in the
refugium.>
I am obviously very leery of putting a mangled anemone back in the main tank,
where crabs & fish will pick on it; it will wander restlessly into some bad
situation & die in a corner where I can't find it, etc.
<What are you water parameters, including temperature, salinity, ammonia,
nitrates, nitrites, calcium and alkalinity? How many watts of metal halide do
you have? I also need to know what skimmer and amount of flow you have in the
tank. How often do you feed the anemone, what size portions, and what are you
feeding?>
What would you do with it right now?
<Leave the anemone where it is for now and try to figure out the cause of it
roaming. Running fresh carbon will also help in the recovery.>
Under what circumstances would you feed it or put it back into the main tank?
<The anemone is no where near ready to eat. This will take some time, perhaps
weeks and will depend on the damage, previous health, and if you can correct the
initial problem quickly. You need to wait until the anemone is completely healed
before feeding. Trying to feed now will only cause more stress.>
A few answers in your archive recommended Reef Dip for injured anemones. Do you
think this is important?
<No, and it may be more harmful. I don’t recommend dips for anemones.>
Thanks a lot. Tracy
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Injured Anemone,
Will it survive? E. quadricolor – 1/18/08
Hi Brenda & thanks for your reply.
<You’re welcome!>
My anemone had been in the same place, happy, for many months, and
growing very fast. I got him in mid-2006 and he was about the size of a
quarter, now bigger than my hand. I feed mysis thawed in Selcon, 1
cube/week.
<I would feed smaller portions 2 – 3 times a week. Over feeding can
cause stress. It can also cause the anemone to regurgitate several hours
later.>
Not much has changed in the tank lately. I did recently start adding
strontium for some new small SPS corals, about 3 weeks ago.
<Are you testing these levels before dosing?>
Light: 2x 150w MH, 4x 54w actinics, total watts=529
<Did this anemone typically stay up high in the tank?>
Temp usually 77 (chiller)
<This is a bit low, try to aim for 80 degrees, without going over 82.
Increase temperature slowly.>
Sg=1.026
NH3, NO2, NO3=0
KH=8 (constant battle to get higher, but usually 8 no matter what I do)
<A dKH of 8 is an acceptable range. I would not go much higher, if any.
I would check your magnesium. If you are having trouble maintaining
calcium and alkalinity levels, low magnesium may be the cause. An abrupt
change in alkalinity will cause stress to anemones. So use caution
here!>
Ca=450
I actually don't have any intakes or powerheads in the tank, just a
fast/powerful main pump with 2 returns in the tank.
<No powerheads!!! Yeah!!! You have no idea how seldom I hear that! I am
a strong believer in not keeping anemones with powerheads. Congrats to
you for not using powerheads!>
The anemone must have dived over the top of the overflow box, there's no
other way in there!
<Anemones can get through very small spaces when flow/suction is
involved. I’ve seen them get sucked into a rather thick sponge filter on
a powerhead.>
I have ~20 mushrooms. I'm about to sell half of them and 1/3 of my
basketball-sized xenia colony. Perhaps this will cut down on some of the
chemical warfare that probably stresses the anemone.
<Removing some of the mushrooms will help with chemical warfare.>
I have carbon and a poly filter running all the time (time to change,
about 2 months old).
<Yes, carbon is only useful for a few weeks at best.>
No skimmer, just a 20gal sump full of Caulerpa and detritivores (pump &
turbulence segregated at one end by a screen).
<I do recommend you purchase a reputable skimmer. This is one very
important piece of equipment for any reef tank.>
I'll do a 20% water change tonight and will take any other suggestions
you have. How long do you think I can leave it in the refugium before
the low light starts to impact its recovery ability?
<This is hard to say. Some can go a few weeks or even a few months with
inadequate lighting.>
I don't want to go overboard with the quarantine and end up doing even
more damage.
<I understand. I would try giving the anemone 3 or 4 more days and then
re-evaluate. Send me an update on it and I will help you decide. If
things suddenly worsen during this time, let me know as soon as
possible. Keep in mind that when this anemone does go back to the tank,
it will need to be acclimated to the light. It may also immediately go
into hiding (normal) or roam again so you will need to monitor it. Also,
if you can, send me a picture of the anemone. If you are a member of a
local reef club, you may be able to find someone willing to let you
borrow some PC lighting to put over the sump during this time. You may
also want to consider purchasing some back up lighting. Keeping the
anemone in its current location as long as possible will help greatly.
If you need help finding a local club, let me know. I will find out what
is available in your area.>
Tracy
<Good luck! I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you! Brenda>
Re:
Injured Anemone, Will it survive? E. Quadricolor – 1/26/08
Update and need to move?
The anemone(s) are looking good. Moving around a bit, staying
small, and no necrosis.
<Yeah!!!>
I have attached pics. It's been a week. The question of course
is what to do now. I would like to leave them in the refugium
for their whole convalescence if possible, then sell the small
one & reintroduce the big one once they can eat.
<You would need to buy additional lighting to keep them in there
much longer. They are already showing signs of hunger and loss
of zooxanthellae. Unless you can provide better lighting in the
next 2 – 3 days, I would move them now.>
In the refugium, they sit on the top of a Caulerpa forest just
under the water surface. I gave them a glass bowl to sit in but
they moved out. Ironically, there is a dreaded powerhead in
there; otherwise it stagnates because the screen holes are small
to keep in the Caulerpa.
This weekend I will move the powerhead to the other side of the
screen and just use a hose to get the same flow. The intake is
buried deep in Caulerpa so low risk, but not zero risk.
I took apart the refugium light to read the label - it's a
Coralife 6700k 96 watt PCF bulb, last changed 5/07. They are
about 7 inches from the bulbs. In the main tank they were always
in the exact middle. How long do you think they can be healthy
with that wattage?
<I would go ahead and move them now. I would not take a chance
on having them deteriorate.>
Usually this light stays on 24/7, but I've been giving them a
12hr light/dark cycle like the main tank, do you agree with
that?
<Yes, no need for a refugium light to be on 24/7.>
As for your other questions - I don't have Strontium or
Magnesium test kits, and just add Strontium. This is one of
those "don't fix what isn't broke" things. I've never tested for
those in 7 yrs.
<It is a bad practice to dose anything without testing. Since
you just recently started dosing Strontium, it may be
contributing to the anemone roaming.>
If you think high or low levels could be affecting the anemones,
I could test, which kits do you recommend for those?
<You should be testing Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium. If
your going to dose Strontium, you need to test it before
dosing.>
How do I decide when to feed? Give them x number of weeks
looking good,
then try a few mysis? Wait till I can clearly see nice round
mouths in each one? (The little one was mostly mouth, the big
one had most of its mouth ripped out).
<They don’t appear to be badly damage in the picture. I would go
ahead and try feeding a very small piece of food (sliver size).
If it takes it, I would try another tiny piece the next day. I
would also get some window screen and put over your tank for a
week or so, to acclimate the anemone to the lighting.>
Thanks for ongoing advice. Tracy
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Injured Anemone, Will
it survive? E. Quadricolor – 1/28/08
<Hello Tracy, Brenda here!>
A few developments:
<Okay!>
I talked with several guys from the Atlanta Reef Club. They all
thought that 96 watts over 17 inches (quad bulb) should be fine
for anemones for longer than a week, and wondered if I just
needed a new bulb.
<It is possible, but we are already dealing with an unhealthy,
injured anemone. I don’t want to see the health decline any
more. We are at the 10 day mark already.>
So I did a little more looking at my setup. The bulb I had was
indeed 96 watt PCF and only 7 months old, but it had no actinic
component! So I replaced it with a new 96 watt 6700k 50/50 bulb.
Do you think the lack of an actinic component could have caused
loss of zooxanthellae that quickly?
<No, the loss of zooxanthellae is not caused by the lack of
actinic. A bulb without the actinic would be a better choice,
yet still not sufficient, in this case.>
If not, I can still move to the main tank but at least now they
will have a day or 2 at a higher light level to help them
acclimate.
<You have actually decreased the lighting by adding the
actinic.>
I fed them both - turned off the flow and dropped a mysis right
in the middle of them. The big one eventually, after 5-10
minutes, ate 2 mysis and I see there is a well-healed mouth.
<Two mysis shrimp may be a bit much for this anemone. I would
try just one for now.>
I also got him to stick on a small rock, which will make moving
him easier.
<Good sign!>
The little one didn't react to the food at all, didn't close up
around it, eventually it fell off and was eaten by an Aiptasia
nearby.
<Yikes! The nearby Aiptasia are not doing the little guy any
favors. It needs to be kept away from the Aiptasia. An unhealthy
anemone will not be able to compete with them.>
I am especially reluctant to lose this tiny one in the tank if
it is weak and not eating. What do you think?
<I would move return them both to the main tank. I feel that the
main tank is a better choice.>
Tracy
<Brenda> |
|
 |
|
Injured Bubble Anemone - flush or mend?
Anemone Meets Powerhead – 1/13/08
Hey folks,
<Hello Christopher, Brenda here>
So my Bubble bailed on his tomato clown in favor of the in-port of my power-head
(any way I secure the port, something always finds it's way into "the chipper").
<Ouch! I don’t recommend the use of powerheads with anemones. However, if you
must use them, here are some ideas:
http://www.karensroseanemones.com/coverpowerheads.htm >
Long to short, the bubble anemone is about half ground, foot to tip w/ a gapping
mouth sequestered in a bowl, & I wonder if there is any sense (or possibility)
in nursing it back to health, or if it would just be toxic to my 24 nano halide
coral/clam garden?
<Many anemones have survived powerhead incidents. I would do a water change
today and tomorrow. Keep a close eye on your water parameters.>
The water is cloudy, but the T-Clown, Yellow-head Goby, DOB Damsel & Chromis
seem ok. My environment levels are good & I added a little pro-bacteria to boost
the cycling of any ground anemone protein, & expect nitrates to increase.
<I would rely on water changes to correct any ammonia and nitrate issues. You
also need to figure out why your anemone started roaming. Anemones move when
they are unhappy, in search of a better place. More information regarding their
care can be found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
>
Toast or viable?
<It is definitely worth the effort.>
Thanks,
Christopher
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Anemone Meets Powerhead –
1/14/08
Brenda,
<Christopher>
Thanks for the info.
<You’re welcome!>
Soon after my email, I tossed Mr. Bubbles back in the tank &, after much
finagling, including a trip BACK to the grinder,
<Yikes!>
I successfully relocated him/her to a better home. The thing with this one is
that he/she was always looking for high-flow from day one. Now the choice made
is a low-flow rock channel far away (in a 24 nano) from the circ. pump, with
fully exposed tentacles, & the T-clown has resumed
his duty.
<The clown is hosting an injured anemone? The anemone needs time to heal before
the clownfish is allowed back in.>
Lucky for Mr. Bubbles I am a miser, or I would have flushed only after a few
tries.
<Ouch! Miser or not, flushing a live creature should never be an option.
Providing an adequate environment is a much better choice. There is plenty of
information available in the links I previously sent you. Research before you
purchase. If you are not up to the task of providing adequate care, finding it a
new home is the appropriate action.>
Now, to catch that pesky Damsel...
<Brenda> <<Time for me to leave this country... RMF>>
Bleached E.
Quadricolor, Zooxanthellae, Inadequate Environment – 1/6/08
Hello, my name is David.
<Hello David, Brenda here>
I have just started my saltwater adventure and am running into a little
problem. I have an 8 gallon tank, everything is running very smoothly. I
have one false Percula clown, 5 snails and a peppermint shrimp.
<An Ocellaris needs at least a 20 gallon aquarium.>
I also have one grape frogspawn. I recently bought a white anemone from
my LFS. I need help identifying the anemone. I can’t find any pictures
that resemble it.
<It is a bleached E. quadricolor (Bubble Tip Anemone / BTA). Your
anemone is white because it has expelled its zooxanthellae. This is an
unhealthy anemone, and should not be kept in an 8 gallon tank. It needs
to be kept in an established (6 – 12 months old) tank of approximately
50 gallons or more. Some people have kept anemones in smaller tanks (20
– 25 gallons). However those that are successful at it have been in the
hobby for a while, and are knowledgeable in the care and requirements of
an anemone.>
Also I keep placing it in a little hole in the rock and it keeps
floating down onto my frogspawn and they seem to bind tentacles, I think
they may be fighting.
<They are stinging the heck out of each other. The anemone is unhealthy,
and will not be the winner.>
This is going on quite consistently and it has me worried. I bought the
anemone as a host for my clown; will this provide a good host?
<No, this anemone will not survive long term in an 8 gallon tank.>
How can I stop these attacks?
<You can’t. The anemone is stressed, unhealthy, and in an inadequate
environment. It will continue to roam until its death. I recommend
taking it back to the place that you bought it from and researching
before your purchase.>
Thank you so much.
<You’re welcome! I wish I had better news for you. Brenda> |
|
Going, going... |
Re: E. quadricolor 911 – 1/04/08 I just tested the tank on New Years Day. I use a master reef test kit. <I don’t recommend this test kit. I would go with a more reliable product, such as Salifert. In the mean time, take a water sample into a reputable LFS and have your water tested.> My tank is 47 gallon. I started out in a 10 gallon tank and upgraded to the new tank, having been up for about 7 months now. I added the anemone in August and it came from Live Aquaria. <Your tank was not ready for an anemone. It needs an established environment, six months to one year, with one year being best.> It was healthy looking when I got it and for a while after. It has looked this way for close to 3 months. I use compact lighting with a dual actinic and dual daylight. The bulbs are about 7 months old, and I have ordered more. The water parameters are: salinity 1.023, <Your salinity is too low. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by using pre-mixed saltwater as your top off water daily.> Nitrite 0.2, <Needs to be zero.> ph 8.0, Nitrate 50, <Nitrates are much too high, needs to be zero. I suggest a large water change and continue to monitor daily.> Alkalinity is low (added reef buffer) <How low?> ammonia is .25 <Much too high, a large water change should help, but you need to get to the root of the problem.> and the temp is 76. <Temperature is too low; gradually bring up to 79 – 80.> I added 15 lbs of new rock on new years. <Was it cured?> I also added phosphate control. <Why? What were your phosphate levels? Where does your source water come from, RO, RO/DI, or Tap?> I am still learning my tank, so it is very possible I do not have something right. The size of silverside I have been feeding it is about the size of a pencil eraser. <That is too large of a piece for an anemone in this shape. Try feeding as small of a piece that you can tear off. Foods soaked in Selcon may also help.> I did notice today that the foot is spreading on the rock. I check it sometimes at night and it looks the same as under the lights. I turn on the tank when I get up in the mornings and off when I go to bed. I hope all this information helps. Oh yea, his tank mates are a yellow tang, <A 47 gallon tank is much too small for any tang.> maroon clown, blue damsel (new) several snails and crabs, <I don’t recommend crabs, they can be predators.> and a new Condy anemone. <Mixing species of anemones is dangerous and likely deadly.> It lives on another rock across the tank. I hope the pictures help too. <Based on those pictures, your anemone is in very very poor shape, if not already dead. Also, you have Aiptasia anemones, which are no doubt stinging your BTA. A peppermint shrimp may help this, but you may need to protect the anemone from the shrimp while you feed it. I also suggest you be prepared for a large water change in the event that your anemone dies. Having 20 gallons or more available at all times is a good idea. Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor 911 –
1/04/08
I will try everything you suggested.
<Excellent!>
Could the nitrate and ammonia level be high because of the addition of the
new cured rock I added on New Years Day?
<Yes, if the rock was not cured. Since your anemone has been on the decline
for a while, the addition of this rock is not the root cause of its poor
health. However, you need to get those levels down quickly.>
I did test the water the day after I added it. I have been zapping the
Aiptasia with Joe’s juice.
<I would discontinue for now until the anemone is recovered. Peppermint
shrimp may help, but you need to get your water parameters up to par.>
I added the phosphate control due to some hair algae growth. That is what my
LFS recommended.
<What were your phosphate levels? I would also discontinue this for now. You
don’t want to stress the anemone out any more than you have to. You need to
get to the root of the phosphate problem. Where is your source water coming
from? Have you tested the source water? How are you storing the water? >
You mentioned soaking food in Selcon. What is that? I have not heard of it.
<Here is a link to Selcon: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=5009&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=All&pc=1&N=0&Ntt=selcon&Np=1
>
I will try everything you recommended.
<Great! I did not see a protein skimmer listed with your equipment. Are you
using one, if so, which one? >
Thanks for all your help.
Becky
<You’re welcome! I’ll be here to help you along the way! Brenda> |
 |
|
White markings on
RBTA -12/22/2007
Hi Guys,
<A gal here :)>
First time poster! You have provided so much valuable info as I expand
into the hobby. I have a 8-10" RBTA which has bright white markings as
seen in the photo. I've had it for 4 months and seems healthy, its
already split twice. Are these white marking normal?
<Yes, they are (and pretty too--imo).>
Also, the tips have never bubbled, they stay as seen in the picture.
Whats that about?
<Hmmm... maybe they only bubble when you're not looking. ;) J/k, well,
sorta... it might be changing at night. Or, it might be a little
unhappy. I can't tell if it's just the lighting of the photo or not, but
it could be a wee bit faded/bleached.>
Water levels are perfect!
<What size tank? When it comes to anemones, there can be allelopathic
concerns you can't necessarily test for.>
Thanks in advance.
Eric
<De nada,
Sara M.> |
|
 |
|
Sick BTA, E.
Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/2/07
Dear Crew,
<Hello Andy, Brenda here>
It’s been a while since I rapped at ya. I have a question about the
health of my BTA. I have had it for 7 months or so, during which time
its color has gone from tan to a deep red. It is paired up with a Gold
Stripe Maroon Clown, and they have a good relationship. I feed it about
once per week with (I rotate) Mysis, small pieces of table shrimp, and
chopped oyster, all soaked in Selcon. It has always readily taken food
and remains open and pointed upwards most of the time.
I have a 110g display (30" high) with 6x54W T5 HO (4x10000K and 2x460nm
actinics) that is on about 12 hours per day (I use a timer). I plan to
swap out at least the 4 10000Ks with 14000Ks when I replace my bulbs.
The BTA is attached to LR very near the bottom of my tank. Since day 1,
it has been in this same location, with minor realignments from time to
time. I have previously posted a question to WWM about its position at
the bottom of the tank and my lighting, as I was concerned that my
lighting might not be enough for it, but the response was to leave
things alone if the BTA was happy and doing well.
<Yes, I remember. If I’m not mistaken, both James and myself answered
your questions. This fixture does not have individual reflectors
correct?>
Over the last 7-10 days, however, I've noticed that the BTA appears a
little wilted (both its foot and its tentacles) and is no longer
positioned up/towards the light.
<How old are the bulbs?>
In fact, it appears to be resting on the glass bottom of the tank. It is
still deep red in color and its foot remains attached to the same ledge
of LR. Last night I tried to feed it, but it did not take the food or
close up around itself as usual.
<This is not a good sign. Can you send me a picture of the anemone?>
As you know, you get to know your animals, and I just know that the BTA
is not itself.
<Yes>
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate are all 0. Temp is stable at
77-78*,
<I prefer a bit warmer temperature for anemones. I try to keep mine at
80 degrees.>
pH is 8.3, alk is 3.5 meq/L, and salinity is 1.0245 (I have tried to get
it up to 1.025 but can't keep it stable there due to top-off, salt
creep, etc.).
<Be careful with salt creep, it is dangerous to live stock. I recommend
1.026 for anemones. I suggest topping off with salt water until you get
to 1.026.>
I also employ a 30g fuge (4" DSB, LR and Chaeto) and a Coral Life Super
Skimmer, and I run carbon in my sump (change every 4 weeks).
<I would try increasing the carbon change to every 2 weeks.>
I have about 85lbs of LR, a Sailfin Tang, a Royal Gramma, a Brown
Combtooth Blenny, and a Canary Wrasse (in addition to the Clown), two
Cleaner Shrimps, about 22 various types of shrooms,
<Mushrooms are toxic. You may have a chemical war going on here.
Changing your carbon more frequently may help.>
2 small tree corals, a Lemnalia, and some Xenia. I do a 10% water change
each week. Water is RO/DI.
<Is it time to change the filters?>
Circulation is about 10x per hour. I am very careful about not
introducing any foreign substances (cleaners, etc.).
<Good!>
Do BTAs go through these phases, or should I be worried?
<This is not a phase, something is wrong here.>
I don't know what I could be doing wrong or not doing.
<It may be a combination of things. I suspect the mushrooms contributing
largely to the problem. Lighting and RO/DI filters may also be
contributing. However, I would expect the anemone to move higher up if
it was not getting enough light.>
Thanks for any insight you may have.
Andy
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E.
Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/2/07
Thanks for the response, Brenda.
<You’re welcome Andy! I received both of your e-mails, and will answer
both here.>
I have attached 2 pictures of the BTA. Unfortunately, it's positioned
itself under a ledge, oriented perpendicular to the front of the tank
and out of light, so the pictures aren't that great and I couldn't get a
picture of its mouth. I also don't have a macro lens yet, so the image
quality is what it is . . .
<Hard to tell. The pictures are much too dark. The anemone is much too
small for a Maroon Clownfish. Maroons can be rough on smaller anemones.
It is recommended that the anemone be 3 times larger than the clownfish.
The anemone is also too small for having it 7 months with your feeding
schedule. It is not getting the proper nutrition. Is the clownfish or
the shrimp stealing its food?>
I forgot to mention in my last e-mail that my calcium is 400, so that is
where it should be as well. I tried tonight to feed it some fresh clam.
It captured the clam and started to swirl its tentacles, but I'm pretty
sure it never ate the food (it didn't form a bulb around itself as
usual).
<I suggest trying some silversides. Not all anemones will accept the
same foods. There are many cases where some anemones reject many common
foods, and will accept silversides. Based on the condition of the
anemone, I would feed a 1/8 inch sized portion of silversides daily.
Once it improves I would go to 1/4 inch sized portion every 2 to 3 days
for a month or two.>
Thanks again for your help.
<You’re welcome!>
Shoot! I forgot to answer your other questions too. My RO/DI unit is 4-5
months old, and my TDS reads 148 going in and 0 going out, so I think
the filters are working fine.
<I would take a sample into your LFS to double check. It is not uncommon
for 4-5 month old filters to need to be replaced.>
My T5 bulbs are about 7 months old or so--they do not have separate
reflectors.
<Is it time to clean the salt off of the reflector and bulbs?>
All of my mushrooms are at the edges of my tank, and the BTA sits in the
middle of my tank. Relatively speaking, there isn't a mushroom near the
BTA.
<They do not have to be next to each other to have chemical warfare.>
I will start swapping out the carbon more often. I realize that things
in the marine world happen slowly (sometimes). The BTA and the shrooms
have lived together for 5 or 6 months.
<Chemical warfare is a perfect example of things going bad slowly. With
anemones, it can take months, or even a few years before it starts
showing ill signs. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E.
Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/4/07
Thanks again.
<You’re welcome!>
The anemone is actually quite big when healthy, at least 3 times as big
as the clown. I was able to get a feeding response from it by trying
another piece of fresh clam, but it wasn't nearly as vigorous as usual.
<I would still try the silversides. Are you positive that what you have
is a BTA? After our last e-mail, I started thinking it may possibly be
an LTA, which may explain why it hasn’t climbed higher in the tank.>
I clean the salt spray from the shields on my lights every week.
<Good!>
Andy
<Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor,
Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/5/07
Brenda,
<Andy>
I'm not sure of anything, although it was sold to me as a "bulb anemone" and did
have bubble tips for about the first month or so, so I'm pretty sure it's a BTA.
<It does appear to be.>
I will get silversides tonight and start the feeding routine you suggested. I'll
keep you posted.
<Great! I’ll keep my fingers crossed!>
Thanks for all your help.
Andy
<You’re welcome and good luck! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E.
Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/7/07
Well Brenda, I am at a loss as to what is going on with my BTA. For
three nights I have tried to feed it small pieces of silversides and I
am pretty sure that the BTA failed to eat at least 2 of those 3 times.
Tonight, I stood on a chair with my arm in the tank for 45 minutes
chasing all my hermits and shrimps away from the anemone hoping to
ensure that it could eat unmolested.
<I would remove the hermits and shrimp, or you could place a plastic
strawberry basket over the anemone. However, based on the location of
the anemone, I don’t know if you are going to be able to do this.
Removal of the shrimp and crabs is best! I have seen shrimp go digging
inside an anemone looking for food several hours after feeding an
anemone. Eventually the shrimp became the anemones dinner. Pay backs are
rough sometimes. All crabs have the potential to be predators.>
My back now aches and the skin on my hand became shriveled, and the BTA
ultimately released the silverside without eating.
<Ouch!>
I raised my temp to 80 degrees and the salinity is now over 1.025.
<Needs to be 1.026 and stable.>
Is it possible that it is getting ready to split and that's why it is
not eating?
<Is possible, but I don’t believe this is what is going on.>
If it starts to die, how in the heck do I get it out of my tank?
<First, I’m not sure that your anemone is going to die soon, but it is
possible. It is hard to say without a better picture. However, in the
even that it does, you will need to remove it quickly before the rest of
your livestock dies. It is not going to be a fun easy task. If it is
already falling apart (this happens rather quickly) when you find it,
you may be able to suction it out. Either way, it is going to be
extremely unpleasant for you and your livestock. Keep plenty of extra
saltwater on hand. You will need to do a large water change and run
fresh carbon. Keep a close eye on the water parameters for the first two
week.>
It's at the bottom of my tank with its foot firmly planted under LR.
Also, I seriously believe my Clown will die from loneliness.
<As I stated before, your anemone is much too small for the Maroon. They
need to be separated. Maroons are harsh on a smaller anemone and likely
deadly to a sick anemone. Your clownfish will be a little upset over the
loss, but will not die without an anemone. Have you taken your water
samples in to be tested yet? Were the readings the same as your test
kits? I still believe that you do not have enough lighting to support
this anemone. Unfortunately, I can not explain why it regained its color
after you got it and is now ill. Your lighting, a Maroon loving it to
death, water parameters, toxins in the water, the shrimp and the crabs,
are all possibilities. I would start looking into finding another home
for the anemone, preferably someone experienced with sick anemones. I
believe this situation is going to continue to worsen. If you need help
finding someone, let me know your location and I will see if I can find
someone local to you. For now, I suggest contacting your closest reef
club. A LFS is not likely going to take on this task.>
Andy
<I wish I had better news for you! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E.
Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/7/07
Brenda,
<Andy>
Without breaking down my entire tank, there is no way that I am going to
get this BTA out of the tank. His foot is wedged deep between the bottom
of my tank and a piece of LR. It just isn't going to happen.
<Try aiming a powerhead at it (without blasting it). Maybe you’ll get
lucky and it will move on its own. Can you see the anemones foot from
underneath the tank? Is it attached to the glass? If so, possibly
something cold (soft ice pack) from underneath, along with the powerhead
may irritate the foot enough to make it move. It is a long shot, but
worth a try. If this doesn’t work, there really is no other option other
than tearing the tank apart. Letting it die is not an option in my
opinion.>
Believe it or not, the Clown was just a tiny sucker when I got
her--dwarfed by the BTA. And as I said in a previous email, when
healthy, the BTA is actually quite large--double if not triple the size
of the Clown.
<Yes, I am aware of that, but circumstances have changed drastically.>
The one thing I totally forgot to do, and which I will do Saturday, is
take my water to the LFS. Thanks again for all your time/help. Andy
<You’re Welcome! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E.
Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare – 12/7/07
Brenda,
<Andy>
I've read many times on WWM that "allowing an animal to die is never an
option". With all due respect to the love that we all have for our
animals, I don't necessarily agree that allowing an animal to die is
always "wrong" and is never an "option".
<I am not convinced that your anemone could not live a long healthy life
if it were given the proper environment.>
In fact, under appropriate circumstances, it may even be the right
option. Rather, in deciding to entirely break down a large tank to save
one animal, I think one needs to consider the incredible amount of
stress that such action would place on all the other livestock and the
possibility that, in saving one animal, you may kill others.
<I am fully aware of the stress involved in tearing a tank apart. I can
assure you that a dead anemone, can crash your entire system quickly,
leaving you with a total loss. I did recommend the lesser of the two
evils here.>
In addition, in my particular situation, one needs to consider whether
you will actually be able to dislodge the anemone without severely
injuring it in the process.
<Extreme caution is always required when handling anemones. However, it
is not an impossible task.>
Add to all of that the stress placed on the fish keeper, his or her
available facilities (e.g., ability to move and hold healthy livestock
while breaking down the tank, etc.), and any number of other factors.
<When you purchase any animal, you are ultimately responsible for their
care. This animal did not ask to be removed from the ocean.>
My tank is large, heavy and sits on an oak stand. I can't see or access
the bottom of the tank. The BTA's foot is wedged deep between the glass
bottom and a large piece of live rock. I honestly do not believe that I
could physically get this anemone out of this crevice without tearing
its foot. The power head idea may work, though.
<If you can see the foot, or have a general idea where it is, aim the
powerhead in that direction.>
As with everything in life, there are no absolutes, there is never only
one "right" way to do things, and there is no "single" moral compass
that we all must follow. We all love our animals, or we wouldn't be in
the hobby. Some hobbyist obviously are more caring/thoughtful than
others, but I honestly believe that very few of us go out and spend
thousands of dollars on a display and thousands of hours of hard work
only to take a "I don't care about my animals" attitude. I certainly do
not want to see my BTA die, and I am certainly committed to keeping my
livestock healthy and happy and to nurse them back to health when they
are sick.
<You are correct, there are no absolutes. However, given a proper
environment and proper care, they won’t get sick. The lack of lighting
issue was mentioned to you back in early or mid October. Nearly two
months have gone by. You stated that upgrading the equipment was not an
option at this time. Sufficient lighting, double checking your water
parameters with another source, removing the clownfish for a month or
two, or finding a new home, may save this creatures life. That my friend
is the “single” moral thing to do.>
Hopefully things will work out for my BTA.
<I truly hope so too!>
Andy
<Good luck to you! I hope that someday you are able to send me an e-mail
telling me that the anemone is thriving. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E.
Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, – 12/8/07
Brenda,
<Andy>
I hereby crown you the Angry Crew Member.
<You are sadly mistaken here. I am not angry, but I am disappointed in
your lack of willingness to satisfy this animals needs.>
The WWM Crew frequently requests that posters read their e-mails twice
to make sure that the spelling, grammar, etc. is correct.
<Yet I’m still fixing yours!>
In the same vein, I ask you to save your responses for 12 hours and then
come back and read them again to make sure you really want to hit
"send".
<I answer when time allows, and will continue to do so.>
The only reason I am dignifying your tone/comments is that I celebrated
the holidays with our friends tonight and I have a few beers in me.
<Is your drug altered state of mind supposed to be funny, insulting or
threatening? It is not welcome here!>
I have news for you--long before October, long before you were involved
in my BTA issue, even before I bought my BTA, I asked two reputable
local fish stores about the suitability of my lighting system with a
BTA, and each of them stated that my T5 lighting would be fine.
<How is that working out for you?>
In fact, I even posed the question to WWM and RMF (if memory serves)
stated that my T5 lighting system should be sufficient, that the BTA
would likely find its "spot" in my tank and that I would know soon
enough by its movement, etc. whether it was happy. It's been 6 or 7
months . . .
<The words “likely” and “should” are key words here, and “soon enough”
has now passed. Providing Bob with the correct information on your
lighting would have been more helpful. You did not know if your T-5
lighting system had individual reflectors or not. In fact you did not
understand what individual reflectors were. I explained this to you.>
This is a 10-day old problem.
<No, the problem started the day you purchased the anemone and placed it
in your tank without researching their requirements.>
When I asked you previously about my lighting, my BTA was seemingly in
fine health, eating, large, and happy.
<Perhaps a refresher is needed: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spgidf7.htm >
I asked you BECAUSE I was being proactive by trying to get as much
info/opinion as possible. While I respect your opinion, it is not
universally shared.
<I have spent many hours researching and caring for anemones. The
information that I provided to you is the best available to date.>
Define "proper environment" and "proper care". Is it lighting? Is it
food? Is it luck?
<There are many factors involved. This information was previously
provided to you. It is also posted many times on WWM. “Luck” is not the
answer when providing long term care for this delicate creature.>
You don't know the answer, and you've admitted to me as much.
<My statement in my first e-mail regarding this issue: “The anemone
appears healthy. If you have individual reflectors on your T-5s, I would
leave things alone.”>
If my lighting is so bad, why has my BTA remained in the same spot for 7
months and not moved to the top of my LR so that it can be as close to
the light as possible?
<It may not have the energy to move. It clearly doesn’t even have the
energy to eat.>
Why has its color improved?
<I have not seen this. Again, this is based on your description.>
Don't lecture me about my responsibilities. I have spent countless hours
researching WWM, books, articles, etc.
<This is not a lecture, but a repeat of the hundreds of posts already on
WetWebMedia.>
I have spent thousands of dollars on supplies, equipment, etc. to ensure
that my pets have a good environment.
<A million dollars invested in the wrong equipment won’t help.>
My wife thinks I live in my basement as it is. I'm not the Baltimore
Aquarium, for God's sake. I don't have 30 tanks waiting to house my fish
and inverts while I rescue an animal.
<You have a 110 gallon tank here. Do the math! You won’t need 30 tanks.>
I'm doing the best I can here, by writing you as soon as I see a
problem, by feeding, by testing water, etc.
<No, not the best, just what you are willing to do, and you are not
considering the animal’s life. Writing won’t help much unless you
actually act.>
That's what's moral.
<Obviously we don’t agree here.>
I fully intend to take a sample to my LFS.
<Is a good choice, should have been done already.>
I don't know what your day job is, but mine doesn't involve sitting at
home with hours of free time on my hands to run off <to> the LFS whose
hours don't always match up with my schedule.
<My day job is not your business.>
It will get done tomorrow. And, what if my water checks out fine? What
then?
<Does upgrading your lighting, removing the clownfish, chemical warfare,
correcting your water parameters sound familiar?>
What if the BTA is simply dying?
<Anemones don’t just “simply” die without cause. They can out live both
of us if given the proper environment.>
I just put down my dog. She was 15. I could have spent thousands of
dollars on surgery, but the vet said she probably wouldn't make it
through the surgery and, even if she did, there was a good possibility
that she would die anyway. He said it was just her time.
<May she rest in peace! So it must be the anemone’s time too?>
Sometimes things just happen, and all the water changes, and MH
lighting, and food, and isolation won't change a thing.
<I’m not sure where you are getting your information here, but it is
incorrect in this case.>
Clearly there is something wrong with my BTA.
<Oh yes! Clearly!>
I will do all in my power to figure out what that is and hopefully
remedy it.
<It has been figured out for you. I have listed the remedy. It won’t fix
itself.>
I honestly do not want my BTA to die or to foul my tank. I have invested
too much time and money to want that to happen.
<Perhaps a little more time and money will fix the situation.>
I thank you kindly for all of your insight and help. Happy Holidays.
<Andy, when you do sober up please know that I will no longer be
assisting you. Brenda>
Re: BTA Health...
effective communication 12/9/07
Brenda,
<Mmm, no, BobF this time>
You don't have to assist me anymore, but I need to set the record
straight because you aren't reading.
<Have just reviewed this corr. Here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/btadisf6.htm>
You seriously have issues.
<...?>
Threatening? Don't be ridiculous or a jerk.
<......?>
Nothing in my post could be construed as threatening. Funny? A good
assessment? Yeah, those two. Maybe it's just your email mannerism, but
my problem with you is that you come across as a holier than thou,
know-it-all jerk (and I have seen this in many other responses from you
to others, including one in which you scolded a poster by making a
reference to your dying grandfather-- your day job is no one's business,
but your grandfather is?).
<Take care here my friend... this is neither pertinent, nor proper>
I will ignore your "sober up" and "drug induced" remarks (as well as
your typos that were in your earlier responses--people who live in glass
houses . . .). They are wholly inappropriate based on an incorrect
reading of my post. I was simply in a good mood.
You have made these grand statements about how I failed to do my
research, how I neglected to tell Bob about my lighting, how I am
unwilling to buy a different lighting system, how I am unwilling to take
the steps necessary to help my anemone, etc. They are all just plain
wrong.
You are right, I willingly misrepresented my lighting system to Bob when
I told him that I had the "Current Nova Extreme T5 HO lighting system."
I have used this same description with others as well. You guys are the
fish experts, which is why we write. Even though this is an extremely
popular and common unit, I guess I should have known that no one knew
that it didn't have individual reflectors (and known to even ask the
question/know the difference!).
I take exception to your comment that I failed to do research. First, I
did do research before I purchased the BTA. I read WWM, I read CMA, I
researched other sites, and I asked the industry. Apparently you want me
to take a college course. Many people successfully keep anemones using
T5 lighting--this is evidenced by hundreds of posts on WWM and
elsewhere. Show me a site other than your posts which states "if you're
going to use T5 lighting with anemones, you must use individual
reflectors--that Nove Extreme system just won't work." If (1) the
manufacturer's description, (2) the retailer's description, and (3) two
separate LFSs all indicate that the fixture is appropriate, and RMF
doesn't mention anything about individual reflectors after I described
my situation, why in the world would I think to ask the question? What
more research could I have done? You just need to be right today, that's
all.
<For some/whatever record, reflectors can/do help to focus, re-direct
considerable amounts of light energy>
Also, I didn't say I wasn't willing to upgrade lighting--I said it was
less than a year old and expensive, and I hated to trash it if I didn't
have to. You suggest reflectors or MH, someone else suggests swapping in
14000K bulbs the next time I replace, someone else says my T5s are fine.
Clearly a consensus, and I can understand how you could think that I am
a totally irresponsible, uninformed hobbyist.
<Mmm, I don't see/read Brenda as coming across, stating this>
As for the 30 tank comment, I guess you don't recognize hyperbole when
you see it.
FYI, my water checked out fine except phosphates were a little high
(0.2) and iodine levels were extremely low to non-existent, which is odd
because I do weekly water changes. The LFS stated that these two factors
could definitely be the cause of my BTA's refusal to eat. I have taken
chemical steps to fix these issues and will try to figure out what could
be causing my phosphates. I have also been able to get my BTA to eat
thawed mysis shrimp the last 2 night--I don't know why it won't touch
the silversides.
<I encoura | |