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FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Health 4 Related Articles:
Bubble Tip,
Rose
Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob
Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim
Black,
Recent
Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones,
Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: BTA Disease 1,
BTA Disease 2,
BTA Disease 3,
BTA Health 5, BTA
Health 6 & E.
quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2, E.
quad. FAQ 3, E. quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA
ID, BTA
Compatibility, BTA Selection,
BTA Behavior, BTA
Systems, BTA Feeding,
BTA Reproduction/Propagation,
Anemones,
Anemones 2, Caribbean
Anemones, Condylactis,
Aiptasia
Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone
Reproduction, Anemone
Lighting, Anemone
Identification, Anemone
Selection, Anemone
Behavior,
Anemone
Health, Anemone
Placement, Anemone Feeding, Heteractis
malu,
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Rose Anemone Color variation, Possible Shipping Stress – 4/13/07
Hi Team
<Hello Christyna, Brenda here>
I thought I was buying a rose anemone but when I received it from Aquacon- (it
was tank raised) it looked very irritated.
<Rose Bubble Tip Anemone? I’m going to have to assume here that when you say
“received” you mean it was shipped. This is not uncommon for any anemone to be
stressed from shipment.>
It has a burgundy colored stump (foot) but the tentacles are looking really
green? (It is still scrunched up) Is this truly a rose anemone? I paid 140.00
for a small guy and want to make sure it is a true rose.
<Rose Bubble Tip anemones come in many different color variations. Some of
those variations include some green. On the other hand $140.00 for a “small
guy” seems expensive to me, however if shipping was included in that cost, that
may be the correct ball park.>
Also, understand that this was out of light for a full day- but last night it
looked not so good- its mouth was open huge and lips were very loose on it-
also, the tentacles are not extended- is there something I can do to help it
out?
<Pictures would help me out a lot here. A mouth wide open is never good, but
“if” the anemone was shipped, and placed in a healthy environment, I wouldn’t
worry yet. Give it some time. Your anemone may need a week or so to over come
the shipping and its new environment. Do check your water parameters. Anemones
need pristine water conditions.>
Also, aqua con has said to NOT feed the anemone- that it only needs light and by
feeding it will kill my tanks water- any thoughts to that?
<Ouch!!!! Yes, some not so pleasant thoughts. Your anemone needs to be fed
meaty foods. Silversides, krill, lance fish, are all good choices. I’m not
familiar with the company you are dealing with, but I can tell you they are
giving you some very bad advice. I can’t tell you how many people have been
told the exact same thing. I usually hear about it when the anemone is
starving.>
BTW- your website is great, is there a membership?
<Thank you! No, there is no membership. This is a free service provided by Bob
Fenner and several volunteers that are dedicated to helping people like you and
the livestock you keep.>
Thanks so much!
Christyna
<You’re welcome. Christyna if you need more help with your anemone, please
provide me with your lighting information, age of set up, water parameters,
other equipment, tank mates and pictures if you can. Good luck with your new
anemone! Brenda>
Shrinking BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor – 4/10/07
<Hi Brad, Brenda here>
Hello, I am fairly new to aquariums. I have a 55 gallon salt water tank with a
satellite lighting system with dual actinic and dual daylight compact
fluorescent bulbs. I have a Bak pak protein skimmer, a cascade 300 filter, a
power head, 40 lbs live rock and 30 lbs live sand. I have had it for eight
months. I just started playing with coral about 2 months ago. I have 1 tang, 1
maroon clown, I have one small mushroom coral, 2 large feather dusters, 1 sponge
coral, 1 polyp, I just purchased a BTA (4 to 6 inch) 5 days ago it has been
doing fine. It was doing great this morning when I went to work. I came home at
6 it had shriveled up drastically its bubble tips are about the size of long
grain rice.
<A picture would help. If the tentacles are short and stubby, it is likely
hungry. It needs to eat meaty foods like krill, silversides, lance fish or
mysis shrimp.>
Tested water, all levels are at zero the temperature was low at 72.
<The temperature is much too low for an anemone. Gradually bring it up to
around 79 – 80 degrees. What is the salinity, pH and alkalinity?>
I do not know if this is the problem or not please help. Has it died or what has
gone wrong.
<It could be the problem, or it could be a combination of things. It could be
expelling waste, what have you been feeding it? It may still be acclimating to
its new environment. Anemones will shrivel up from time to time to expel
waste. I doubt that it is dead. If it starts to look like it is melting or
decaying get it out fast and do a large water change. A dead anemone can really
spike the ammonia.>
Thanks, Brad
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Reef tank with BTA and Sea Star without Live Rock – 4/7/07
Hi,
<Hello, Brenda here>
I tried to find my answer on your FAQs and such, but could not find what I was
looking for. I started a 55 Gallon reef tank with live sand (no live rock).
<No live rock? This doesn’t sound like a reef tank.>
My water tests have all come out as 0’s. I have two tank-raised ocellaris
clowns, two small damsel fish, a small orange Linckia, and have added two small
bubble tip anemones. This is my first effort with anemones so I don’t know what
exactly they do when first introduced to the tank. Neither is attaching to
anything. They are both sitting on the bottom of the tank.
<Please research before you buy an animal.>
One seems to be repeatedly puffing up, and then gets smaller. The other has
gotten very small and looks to be spewing some slime out of its mouth. Is this
what they are supposed to do or are they dying?
<Could be expelling waste, but my guess is it is dying. You have not provided
an adequate environment for them.>
If they are OK, will they attach to something in the tank on their own or do
they need a little guidance?
<Your tank needs live rock, for many reasons. I’m not sure what you are
expecting it to attach to.>
I have a question about my little sea star as well. It seems to ball up on
itself quite a bit. It almost looks like it is inside out. Is this supposed to
happen?
<Again, it sounds like you have not provided it with an adequate environment.>
I’m new to all this. Please help.
<This sounds like a new tank also. These animals need an established
environment, which includes live rock. It sounds like you are rushing into
things. Please search WWM for the benefits of live rock, and the care
requirements for your anemone and sea star. I suggest you return your anemones
and sea star to the LFS until you can provide an established environment for
these animals.>
Thanks,
Mistie
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
BTA, Possible Splitting, Entacmaea quadricolor – 3/15/07
Hi,
<Hello, Brenda here>
I have checked out your site for more information on my current problem. My
Green BTA has developed a small tear in its column and this morning when I
checked on it its guts were starting to hang out.
<Is it splitting? Or was it injured somehow?>
I know this probably means it is not going to survive too long but I was
wondering what I could do to try and help it recover.
<Keep pristine water conditions.>
It appears to have torn itself coming out from behind a rock but was fine and
all puffed up an hour or so before I checked it according to my husband so I was
hoping it wasn’t too late.
<A picture would be helpful, but it sounds to me like it is splitting, and you
will end up with two very soon.>
I have a 500 gallon reef tank and the BTA has been in there over a week now
feeding and looking fairly happy other than hiding occasionally.
Thanks for your help.
Francesca Wise
<You’re welcome. Brenda> |
Re: BTA, Possible Splitting, Entacmaea quadricolor - 3/15/07
Hi Thanks for your reply,
Things seem to have gotten a lot worse since this morning and I think
it’s probably now too late. I have attached a picture. Is there anything
we can try?
<The only thing you can do for it now is keep your water parameters
stable. Is it possible that the anemone was injured by a power
head? They have been known to recover from this. I do agree it doesn’t
look good. Keep a close eye one it. If there are any signs of life,
the anemone has a chance. Here is a website with pictures of others
that have been
injured. http://www.karensroseanemones.com/coverpowerheads.htm >
Thanks, Francesca
<You’re welcome. Brenda> |
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Goner |
Bubble Tip Anemone and Prime – 3/11/07
Bob,
<Hi Cindy, Brenda here>
I have a question about a Bubble tip. My husband got this guy on Thursday. He
put Prime in the tank today.
<Why? Prime is used to remove chlorine and ammonia. It is also used during
cycling to reduce ammonia, nitrate and nitrite toxicity. You should be using RO
or RO/DI water. An anemone should not be added to a tank until it is well
established. It is recommended to wait six months to one year before adding an
anemone.>
Now the Anemone is sucked back until it is very small and looks a little jelly
like.
<It is not unusual for an anemone to deflate from time to time. It needs to
expel waste. If it looks like it is melting or decaying, it is dead. Need to
remove it, do a large water change and monitor your water parameters closely.>
What could be wrong with this guy and is there anything we can do to help him?
<Without more information on your tank such as equipment, age, water parameters,
and as to why Prime was added, I can’t offer much help.>
He did try to feed him today but he wouldn't eat.
<That is not unusual for a newly introduced anemone.>
Cindy
<Sorry, need more information. Brenda>
Bubble Tip Anenome... Dippppp! 3/1/07
Hi Crew,
<Patrick... email attachments of no more than a few hundred Kbytes...
what does this mean to you?>
Your site has helped a ton with me setting up my first reef tank. Thank
you.
<For?>
About my system: 75gal Oceanic with Oceanic stand, 20gal sump with
AquaMedic Protein Skimmer. 80lbs of live sand, 70 lbs of Totoka live
rock. Tank lighting comes from a 48 inch Coralife Aqualight with 2 150
watt metal halides, and 2 96 watt fluorescents. The tank has fully
cycled from what I can tell, all water parameters look fine. (Tested
last night.) Fish: 1 Purple Tang, 1 Tomini Tang, 5 Chromises, 2 Signal
Gobies, 2 Purple Firefish, 1 Gold Striped Maroon Clownfish. Inverts: 2
Cleaner Shrimp, 1 (new) bubble tip anemone. SO... here is my question,
(also, any other suggestions won't hurt, I need all the help I can
get:) Last night I got a new BTA that looked great. I bought the piece
of live rock that it was on at the LFS so we wouldn't have to force it
to move it's foot.
<Good>
So I come home, acclimate it using the drip method for about 2 hours,
then I submerse the bag it was in and take him out of the bag
underwater. All is going good. I put it towards the top of the tank
under one of the metal halides.
<Mistake numero uno...>
I was hoping my clown fish would go into the BTA and sure enough he went
right for him. It this point I turned on the metal halide because I
wanted to see if he would react to the light. Sure enough, his tentacles
bulbed up nicely. Now, the clown fish started to swim very aggressively
in the BTA, and it looked like it didn't like it. It began to move its
foot and slowly creep down the rock pile towards the bottom. All the
while the clown fish is aggressively swimming in it and keeping it from
closing itself. So, now the BTA is anchored towards the bottom of the
tank, where it doesn't get enough light. I am not going to try to move
it and whenever I try to move the rock it is on it just goes to the
bottom of the tank. Also, its tentacles are not bulb shaped anymore, I
think because it isn't getting sufficient light. Attached is a picture.
Thanks in advance for any advise on what I should do,
Patrick
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm
and the linked files in blue. BobF> |
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BTA Troubles,
Entacmaea quadricolor, Overstocking – 3/1/07
Hi Crew,
<Hi Patrick, Brenda here tonight>
Your site has helped a ton with me setting up my first reef tank. Thank
you.
<Happy to hear you find it helpful.>
About my system: 75gal Oceanic with Oceanic stand, 20gal sump with
AquaMedic Protein Skimmer. 80lbs of live sand, 70 lbs of Totoka live
rock. Tank lighting comes from a 48 inch Coralife Aqua light with 2 150
watt metal halides, and 2 96 watt fluorescents. The tank has fully
cycled from what I can tell, all water parameters look fine. (Tested
last night.)
Fish: 1 Purple Tang, 1 Tomini Tang, 5 Chromis, 2 Signal Gobies, 2 Purple
Firefish, 1 Gold Striped Maroon Clownfish. Inverts: 2 Cleaner Shrimp, 1
(new) bubble tip anemone. <Twelve fish and an anemone in a newly cycled
tank is too many. You are way over stocked, especially with a new
setup. These fish need to be added slowly, after each one has been
quarantined for 30 days. Please research the tank size requirements for
you tangs, your system is not large enough.>
SO... here is my question, also, any other suggestions won't hurt I need
all the help I can get. Last night I got a new BTA that looked great. I
bought the piece of live rock that it was on at the LFS so we wouldn't
have to force it to move its foot. So I come home, acclimated it using
the drip method for about 2 hours, then I submersed the bag it was in
and took him out of the bag underwater. All is going good. I put it
towards the top of the tank under one of the metal halides. I was hoping
my clown fish would go into the BTA and sure enough he went right for
him. At this point I turned on the metal halide because I wanted to see
if he would react to the light. Sure enough, his tentacles bulbed up
nicely. Now, the clown fish started to swim very aggressively in the
BTA, and it looked like it didn't like it.
<Maroon clownfish are known to be aggressive. Looking at the pictures,
the anemones size is border line compared to the size of that Maroon.
It is recommended that the anemone be a minimum of three times larger
than the Maroon. You system is not ready for an anemone. You need to
have a well established home. It is recommended to wait a minimum of
six months before introducing an anemone.>
It began to move its foot and slowly creep down the rock pile towards
the bottom. All the while the clown fish is aggressively swimming in it
and keeping it from closing itself. So, now the BTA is anchored towards
the bottom of the tank, where it doesn't get enough light. I am not
going to try to move it and whenever I try to move the rock it is on it
just goes to the bottom of the tank.
<It is still acclimating itself to its new environment. Your lighting
may be more intense that what it was used to.>
Also, its tentacles are not bulb shaped anymore, I think because it
isn't getting sufficient light.
<It is not yet completely understood why these anemones lose their bulbs
or bubbles. The anemone will roam until it finds a suitable place.>
Attached is a picture.
<Looking at the pictures it appears that this anemone is slightly
bleached, or loss of zooxanthellae. The anemone needs small portions of
food fed every 1 - 2 days with meaty foods soaked in Selcon. Given the
fact that your tank is not established and is over stocked, you can not
provide an adequate environment for it. I suggest looking for a local
hobbyist to look after the anemone, or returning to your LFS until you
can provide a better environment. Continue to search WetWebMedia so you
are able to gain more knowledge on anemones, cycling, stocking, and
quarantine.>
Thanks in advance for any advise on what I should do,
Patrick
<You are welcome Patrick! Good luck with your setup. Brenda> |
Update: My new BTA is Shrinking, Entacmaea
quadricolor – 3/2/07
<Hi Josh, Brenda following up>
Thanks again for all you help here.
<You’re welcome.>
To answer your questions from your response: The anemones mouth is
gaping wide open as long as it is deflated like that (as pictured).
<Yes, I see that. That is not a good sign. However, there is still
hope.>
Then his mouth closes up nice and tight when he re-inflates (as
pictured).
<It looks much better, but not as tightly closed as I’d like to see. It
has also expelled some (not all) of its zooxanthellae (bleached).>
The lighting at the fish store it was kept in was a couple small PC's
which seem like plenty for the size tank it was in.
<Would need to know wattage and tank size to be sure. Unfortunately we
don’t know what misery this little guy went through to get to the
LFS. Shipping can be harsh on them.>
I actually get all my stuff from one of your sponsors - That Fish Place
- fantastic place I must say.
<Yes, I have a wish list of things to purchase there.>
I am not overfeeding the anemone as most of the time when I am home he
is too deflated to eat anyhow. I have managed to get him a small piece
of shrimp 2 different days in the week that I've had him. Although, I
have seen him catch some of the fish food and eat that as well.
<Being able to catch food is an excellent sign!!!!!>
The lighting, filtration, tank mates and equipment I have are as
follows:
- 75G tank - established 4 months
<An aquarium established 6 months or more is recommended for an
anemone.>
- Coralife Lunar Aqualite PC setup (260W)
- (2) - Aquaclear 50 power heads
- Red Sea Prism protein skimmer
<This skimmer has not had the best reviews. I strongly suggest
considering upgrading.>
- 50lbs live rock - adding more later
<Good, I recommend a minimum of 1 ½ lbs per gallon>
- (5) - large turbo snails
- (9) - small snails
- (10) - tiny blue leg hermits
- (10) - red leg hermits
<Yikes, that’s a lot of hermit crabs. Crabs have been known to pester
and sometimes kill small fish, anemones, and polyps. The rule of thumb
for crabs is one or less per 10 gallons.>
- (2) - yellow tail damsels
- (1) - red firefish
- (2) - cinnamon clowns
- (1) - green serpent Star
- (2) - very small false percula clowns - they are temporarily
partitioned off in this tank till my wife’s tank matures here shortly
and are placing those in her tank. Those clowns, one damsel, the fire
fish and the anemone are on the partitioned side.
<Make sure the anemone is getting enough flow.>
The tanks parameters are very stable and seem not to budge much at all
which is a little frustrating since a couple of the numbers aren't where
I would like them to be. I keep the temperature between 76-78. The
salinity is at 1.024, PH - 8.3, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate – 20 (can't get
that to move, even after a water change). I do 10% water changes
weekly.
<Your temperature and salinity are a little low. Try a target
temperature of 79-80, and target a salinity of 1.026. Start topping off
with premixed saltwater to bring the salinity up. You need to work on
those nitrates some more. Anemones need pristine water conditions. A
better skimmer would help with that. Do you have, or have you
considered a refugium? That will also help with the nitrates. More
information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
>
Anyhow, the two pictures attached are new. The deflated picture is from
last night at 11:00 and the inflated picture is this morning at 6:30.
It is doing this religiously once a day but it is never the same
time. He is expelling waste every time.
<If he starts loosing more color, he is expelling zooxanthellae, not
waste. It is still a possibility that he is still acclimating too your
light.>
I have been feeding it raw shrimp, what else should I feed it or is that
sufficient?
<The little guy needs some Selcon! http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/product/productInfo.web?infoParam.mode=1&infoParam.itemKey=207914 You
will need to soak small portions of food in Selcon every 1 – 2
days. His color should start to improve. Start with about 1/8”
portions. His tentacles are a little shorter than they should be, a
sign he is hungry. The foods I recommend are silversides, Mysis shrimp,
krill, lance fish, along with the raw shrimp you are using. All of
these can be soaked in Selcon before feeding.>
Also, as there are none right now, can I put ANY other inverts in with
the anemone in the future?
<Most snails will be fine. Shrimp are usually fine. Sometimes they
will bother an anemone, especially if there is not food readily
available to them. Make sure they are reef safe and that you have
researched them before you do. Crabs are unpredictable and can be
predators, but are still listed as reef safe most of the time.>
Thanks again, Josh
<You’re welcome! Brenda> |
Re: BTA Troubles, Entacmaea quadricolor,
Overstocking – 3/2/07
Hello Bob and Brenda,
<Hi Patrick, Brenda following up.>
Thank you both for your quick replies.
<You’re welcome!>
Mr. Fenner, I don't know what you mean by "Bubble Tip Anemone...
Dippppp!"
<Not quite sure myself.> <<It's derogatory... STOP sending too-large
files/attachments... Brenda... reject these... please. RMF>>
I'm sorry about the size of the attachments. I thought a picture may
help you to understand what I was talking about. In the future I won't
attach a picture.
<Please do send pictures. Without them my chances of helping you with
your anemone decrease. The problem was the size of the pictures. They
were placed in my in-box while I was out. It was several hours before I
read my mail. They were causing problems with the server and Bob
desperately need to move them.>
Also, when I said your site has helped me with my new tank I meant that
by reading your advice to other people with similar issues as me I was
able to find solutions.
Brenda, thank you for your in-depth advice.
<You’re welcome>
The person at my LFS said it would be okay to put the anemone in the
tank, but after reading your email I have brought it back to the store.
<Good choice. Once your tank is suitable you can try an anemone again
if you desire. I also recommend you research everything before your
purchase. The LFS is there to make money.>
In terms of the tank being overstocked, I have had the tank going since
the middle of December and have just now finished adding the fish for
the tank. Also, I took out 3 Chromis and the Tomini tang. Hopefully this
reduces the bioload. So far though, everything is going very well. Thank
you again for your advice and Bob I apologize again for the size of the
message.
<Bob will see your message.>
Patrick
<Good luck with your hobby. Brenda> |
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My new BTA is Shrinking, Entacmaea quadricolor – 2/28/07
<Hi Josh, Brenda here>
I just got a bubble tip anemone 4 days ago on a Friday evening. Sunday morning
10:30 it looked great, then I left and came home around 2:00 and it was
shriveled up to about 1/4 of the size and excreting a white/clear slime.
<It is expelling waste.>
Also, the mouth was enlarged and looked inverted with some curly stringy stuff
coming out.
<Yikes! Is the anemones mouth tightly closed the rest of the time?>
For all practical purposes it looked about 10 minutes away from death.
<I have seen that often. I remember being in a panic the first few times. My
anemones have me trained now.>
I checked all my water parameters and everything was great, I did a 10% water
change anyway. We then left again around 4:00 and came home around 8:30 and he
looked great, completely re-inflated and actually the overall body looked bigger
than the day before.
<Great!>
He did well all day Monday until about an hour after I got home and he started
shriveling up again and this time was excreting a brown substance which I am
assuming was waste.
<Yes, anemone waste is not always the same color.>
He then continued to shrivel up as bad, or worse, than Sunday morning. I though
he was a goner this time for sure. Nothing I could do at this point but to just
wait it out. He was still that way when I went to bed around 11:00. I got up
the next morning and checked him before I went to work around 6:30 and he was
completely re-inflated again and yet still looked even bigger and perfectly
healthy.
What is he doing?
<Possibly acclimating to your lighting. Do you know what kind of lighting it
was kept under previously?>
From what I understand, anemones don't typically shrivel up that bad right?
<Wrong, they can shrivel up to almost nothing.>
I know it is hard diagnosing without a picture.
<Yes, but we still try.>
I don't know if it is just still acclimating to my tank or what.
<Yes, it is likely still acclimating to its new home, but will still expel waste
from time to time.>
Does the anemone coming back what seems bigger each time have any significance?
<Not necessarily, would need to see a picture. My guess is that it is still
part of the acclimation process.>
I have yet not even seen a picture on the web with one shriveled up as bad as
mine was.
<I can fix that. http://www.karensroseanemones.com/deflating.htm Great
website! Be sure to read through all of it.>
Any ideas?
<Most of what I’m reading seems normal. The curly white appendages you are
seeing, is not typically seen externally on an anemone. Are you over
feeding? I suggest meaty foods, no bigger than the anemones mouth 2 – 3 times a
week. Make sure you have adequate lighting, filtration, and water
parameters. Also make sure your anemones color is up to par, meaning no loss of
zooxanthellae. If you have any more problems or questions, please give us your
exact water parameters, including salinity and temperature along with your
equipment list, age of your setup, other tank mates, and a picture if possible.>
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much - your website is
extremely helpful for so many other things I want to learn about.
Josh
<You’re welcome! Good luck with your new anemone! Brenda>
Problems with Bubble Tip Anemone, Entacmaea
quadricolor – 2/22/07
Hi,
<Hi Brian, Brenda here. I received your second e-mail before I had a
chance to respond to the first, so I will take care of them both now.>
I love the site – thanks!
<Thank you!>
I have a new rose tipped anemone in my 75 gallon tank. There is a
satellite light fixture with 4 65 watt bulbs (two are 10000k, and two
are actinic). It seemed great yesterday, but this morning it looks bad
(see attached photo – sorry for the bad resolution, I only have my phone
with me at work). I gave it a piece of defrosted krill yesterday
afternoon. Is it a goner? The water is seemingly great – nitrates at
0, specific gravity at 1.0225.
<Too low, gradually bring it up to 1.026.>
I’ve got about 100 pounds of Florida and Fiji live rock. There is also
a 30 gallon refugium with miracle mud below the tank.
Thanks!
Brian
Resurrection!
Hi,
Looks like all is well. The anemone spit out some brown goo, and it’s
back to normal.
<Glad to hear it is looking better. It was probably expelling
waste. Let us know if it starts to bleach (loss of zooxanthellae) or if
you have any other problems. Work on bringing the salinity up
gradually. Also search WetWebMedia FAQs for more information on these
anemones.>
Thanks,
Brian
<Your welcome. Brenda> |
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Joes Juice for Aiptasia Control Versus BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor - 2/4/07
Hello,
<Hi Sharon, Brenda here>
I have 3 BTAs and an Aiptasia problem. Before using Joe’s Juice, I would like to
know if this will harm the BTAs.
<There is mixed results with Joe’s Juice for Aiptasia control. To answer your
question, too much at once may harm your BTA. If you choose this route, I would
not use it near your BTA. Start out slow and watch your livestock closely.>
My first thought was to move the infested rock to a bucket filled with saltwater
and zap them there, but all of my rock can be removed. Help!
<An alternative that I have used is Peppermint Shrimp, Lysmata Wurdemanni.
Unfortunately others have had mixed results with Peppermint Shrimp. There is
more information on both here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/aiptasia_impressions/aiptaisia_impressions.htm
>
Sharon
<Hope this helps. Brenda>
Bleached Sebae Anemone - 01/07/07
Hey guys!
<<Hello Michael>>
Would first just like to say what a great job you all do to help us out with
answers we should already know if we had just done our homework ourselves!
<<Hmm, much truth to that...but folks also wish/need to call on other's
opinions/greater experience in the trade...and many merely want to validate
their own thoughts/findings. But as you state, much of the information is
already available for the reading...and even if one doesn't find the answers
their looking for, reading beforehand can often make it easier to ask/bring to
light the right questions>>
Here are my tank parameters -
75-gallon 48x18x20
H.O.T. Refugium with skimmer - Razor Caulerpa
2 Fluval 404 with modified spray bars
Prizm Skimmer
Coralife PC 260W, 2 actinic and 2 10000K placed @ surface of tank
9 watt U.V.
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 20
<<Mmm, edging up there...>>
pH - 8.4 - 8.6
Temp. - 78
Calcium - 380
Alk - (don’t really know - The 5 in 1 strips I use say over 300ppm)
<<The dip-strips are worthless in my opinion...much better to invest in a
titration test kit (Salifert, Seachem, etc.)>>
Mushrooms, Zoos, Star polyps, small frag of Monti, Condy. All flourishing! My
concern is with a Sebae anemone I have bought within the last week (first
mistake).
<<Indeed, not a good addition...I do hope you have read our information on
anemone care/systems>>
I saw a gorgeous white Sebae with yellow tips at a LFS (second mistake) and I
had to have it.
<<No such creature/color...bleached>>
Well, of course, it doesn't seem to want to attach to anything or eat.
<<This animal is possibly stressed beyond recovery>>
I have tried mysis, krill, and silversides. The only way I have gotten him to
eat is by gently sticking a piece of silverside literally in his mouth and
gently force him to take it down.
<<But does it stay down? Likely the food is too large (minced meaty foods are
best), and you are also probably causing more stress/possible physical injury>>
He has very minimal stickiness, which worries me a lot. I am really curious
about his behavior however. When the lights are off he seems to attach to
something for the night and has decent polyp extension, and when the lights go
on, he loses his foothold and shrinks up.
<<Hmm, sounds like a reaction to the lighting due to the absence of UV filtering
pigmentation in the bleached anemone's tissue...though I wouldn't have though
your specified PC lighting to be that strong>>
At night looks like a bleached Sebae but during the day he shrinks up and almost
looks like a bubble coral.
<<Well Michael, the coral is likely instinctively opening at night to feed as
this is when the water column would normally be full of plankton (you might try
feeding after lights-out with a slurry of Sweetwater Plankton, Mysis, and
Cyclop-Eeze...or similar. With no symbiotic algae in its tissue to foster
photosynthesis the "daytime" reaction may simply be a way to conserve energy for
the nighttime feedings...or perhaps it is truly irritated by the light
(hopefully there are no clownfish present exacerbating the problem)>>
His tentacles are half the size and very round almost egg shaped. Any idea as
to why he is doing this?
<<Tentacle size/shape can be variable due to environmental conditions or the
mood/health of the anemone. This animal was probably on the decline when
purchased...should have done your homework beforehand my friend>>
Will the Condylactis help or hurt in his survival? (help with zoox or hurt with
chemical warfare?)
<<As stated in much of our data re, it is never good to mix anemones with
sessile inverts, and usually worse with other anemones. Not only due to the
potential for disaster if the motile anemone decides to go walkabout, but these
organisms detect one another's presence and yes, chemical warfare becomes a
factor. Couple this with the Sebae anemone's weakened state, the very noxious
nature of the Zoanthids and Corallimorphs, and the Condylactis' ability to
release nematocysts to physically attack the Sebae...well...you do the math...>>
I hope this is enough information, please let me know if you would like a
picture or more info.
<<This is enough information to know the Sebae is likely doomed I'm
afraid. It's not unheard of for the odd specimen to recover from such bleaching
events...but under the current circumstances I hold out little hope>>
Much Appreciated!
Michael
<<Regards, EricR>>
Bubble Tip Anemone Trouble 1/5/07
Hello,
First of all, I love your site. Your site has helped me many times and I think
I may need your help again.
I have had a bubble tip anemone for about 3 months now and it has begun to look
very ill.
First of all, when it arrived it looked very healthy and was greenish/ blue in
color.
<Unusual... perhaps artificially dyed...>
It moved around for a week or two and never found a spot it really could stay
in until about 2 months ago.
<Also a bad sign...>
Anyways, it has recently become almost pure white in color.
<Bleached>
This could mean that he was bleached right?
<Yes...>
My friend also ordered an anemone from the same site and his BTA seems to be
losing its color too.
<Can be "just" shipping stress...>
Also, my anemone chose to settle upside down (hanging upside down),
<... bad>
rooted to the bottom of an overhang of my live rock. In this spot it receives
virtually no light at all but hasn't moved for over a month now. At first it
came out daily and slowly began to open less and less until recently when it
does not open at all. I try to feed it 2-3 times a week.
<Good>
Here is my problem now. I woke up this morning to find that my coral banded
shrimp was eating part of the anemone (yuck...).
<Mmm, yes... Stenopids are quite opportunistic...>
I thought the anemone was definitely dead but it still moves a little and opens
partially before closing back up. Anyways, I got the shrimp away from it but
that is not all that is wrong with it. My BTA now refuses food by holding it
and then dropping it. Also, its mouth is now sticking out and there seem to be
frilly things hanging out of the place where the shrimp took a bite. I am
currently trying feeding it with foods that are vitamin enriched but as far as I
can tell it is a lost cause. It did not seem to be in bad shape until the
shrimp attacked it.
I have owned a few anemones successfully but this is the first one that seems to
really be in trouble (if it was bleached would that be the cause of this decline
in health?).
<Oh yes>
I have tried everything I can but nothing seems to be working. As soon as he
decided to settle under that rock and especially after he was attacked by the
coral banded shrimp (I have removed the shrimp from the tank) the BTA's
condition has worsened and I cannot remove him from the rock without tearing him
or chiseling off part of the rock.
<Best to move the anemone with the rock... attached... to another setting... one
with a higher nutrient availability... really, a "dirty" tank with high/er
nitrate, phosphate... mulm on the bottom, subdued lighting...>
My main question is whether or not I should let him be and see if he can recover
<Very unlikely in the present setting>
or try and take him out and let him live out what seems to be the final moments
of his life in my quarantine tank. Also, if he passes away how would I remove
him without contaminating the tank. I heard that siphoning out a dead anemone
may be a good idea, is that true?
<Mmm, yes... if decomposed to that point>
Thanks for any help you can give me,
Michael.
<I would move the rock/anemone... to the QTank if this is the best... change
water out with the gunk you siphon out from the substrate... Your and your
friends anemones were likely "doomed" through improper "handling" through the
"chain of custody", twixt collection, holding, shipping through parties... a
lack of lighting, feeding... other sources of stress... I would contact your
supplier re... the more such data points they have, use, the more likely
something/s will be done to limit such losses. Bob Fenner>
Success! BTA... health, clown symb.
12/17/06
Hello To All.
I just wanted to take a moment to thank all you. Your informative
sight has given me the ability to successfully mate a pair of wonderful
animals that belong together. Took me a couple tries. I had a percula
clown who was not interested in my BTA. So, the poor guy went from a 150
gal tank to a 10 gal hospital tank. He's fine, but the tomato would of
beat him up.
<Oh yes>
That and my son wanted him. :-) I have browsed your sight left and
right and continue to do so. All the articles i read and some personal
attention through emails are all greatly appreciated. Please see
enclosed pic of my tomato clown fish 2 days old and a 3 week old BTA.
<This last badly bleached...>
Not even 24 hours in the tank, well as you can see he's having a blast.
Although, i feel the clown is a bit large for the size on the anemone
but he doesn't seem to mind.
<Do keep a close eye here... Clowns can be too exuberant... for their
hosts>
Right now i am running 2 150w MH bulbs. Is that enough light or do you
think i should upgrade to 2 x 250w MH bulbs?
<Mmm, not necessarily, no>
Just wondering. All I can do to make him grow is make sure my water is
in check, and feed him. In time, he'll grow. It seems like the BTA
accepted him. My clown has been cleaning him. All good stuff.
Thanks again. I really love your web site.
<Ah, good... Your Anemone needs to re-incorporate useful endosymbiotic
algae... Do a bit of searching re this issue please... and thank you for
sharing your success, enthusiasm. Bob Fenner> |
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Re: Success! 12/17/06
Thank - you so much bob!
<Welcome>
I am not really sure what you meant by your comment here:
<This last badly bleached...>
<Please see, read on WWM re... the indices, search tool...>
In regards to this comment:
<Do keep a close eye here... Clowns can be too exuberant... for their
hosts>
What do I do in this case?
<Again... reading>
I am a bit worried about that. He seems to be a but rough with him.
Before I had this clown, my BTA would be fully open! Not he has parts of
him open and certain parts covered. I just thought it may take some time
for the BTA to get used to its host. Last night the clown was doing
allot of moving around here. 3 weeks later the BTA has not moved. Only
once the first day after that he seemed to be happy.
in regards to this comment: <useful endosymbiotic algae> I most
definitely will and thanks again for the advice.
<Ah, good. BobF> |
Re: Success! Bleached BTA 12/18/06
In regards to: <This last badly bleached...>
<Please see, read on WWM re... the indices, search tool...>
Just to clarify, you want me to do some more reading on an article title "
This last badly bleached"? or did you want me to search for an article titled
the indices
<The article, FAQs on BTAs...:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the linked files above...>
Also what article should I search for in regards to the exuberant clown?
<Please... learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM>
Should I type that or is there a title or link you can recommend? I have read
almost every FAQ on Anemones and clown fish. Most clown and anemone behaviors.
Sorry, hope I am not a bother.
<Please make known what process you've employed to find this information...
specifically. Am desirous of amending what we have in the way of "instructions",
examples of how to find what folks are looking for. BobF>
Re: bleached? 12/18/06
Hi Bob,
You saying that my BTA looks bleached. Now I understand. Please note that
when that photo you saw was taken, it was taken at night, w/ no light on or
anything. What ever color you see in the pic came from the camera's flash. Can
that be the reason?
<Mmm, no>
I never really thought it was a problem because he does have some color. His tip
when they are bubbled up during the day are white, but he was always a cream
color.
<Read my friend... Don't write, read. RMF> |
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