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FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Health 4 Related Articles:
Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea
quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner,
Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black,
Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones, Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones, Related
FAQs: BTA Disease 1,
BTA Disease 2, BTA Disease 3,
BTA Health 5, BTA Health 6
BTA Health 7, BTA Health 8,
BTA Health 9, BTA Health 10, &
E. quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2,
E. quad. FAQ 3, E.
quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA ID,
BTA Compatibility, BTA Selection,
BTA Behavior, BTA Systems,
BTA Feeding, BTA
Reproduction/Propagation,
Anemones,
Anemones 2,
Caribbean Anemones,
Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and
Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting,
Anemone Identification,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, Anemone
Feeding, Heteractis
malu, | 
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Rose Anemone Color variation, Possible Shipping Stress – 4/13/07
Hi Team <Hello Christyna, Brenda here> I thought I was buying a
rose anemone but when I received it from Aquacon- (it was tank raised)
it looked very irritated. <Rose Bubble Tip Anemone? I’m
going to have to assume here that when you say “received” you mean it
was shipped. This is not uncommon for any anemone to be stressed from
shipment.> It has a burgundy colored stump (foot) but the tentacles
are looking really green? (It is still scrunched up) Is this truly a
rose anemone? I paid 140.00 for a small guy and want to make sure it is
a true rose. <Rose Bubble Tip anemones come in many different color
variations. Some of those variations include some green. On the other
hand $140.00 for a “small guy” seems expensive to me, however if
shipping was included in that cost, that may be the correct ball park.>
Also, understand that this was out of light for a full day- but last
night it looked not so good- its mouth was open huge and lips were very
loose on it- also, the tentacles are not extended- is there something I
can do to help it out? <Pictures would help me out a lot
here. A mouth wide open is never good, but “if” the anemone was
shipped, and placed in a healthy environment, I wouldn’t worry
yet. Give it some time. Your anemone may need a week or so to over
come the shipping and its new environment. Do check your water
parameters. Anemones need pristine water conditions.> Also, aqua
con has said to NOT feed the anemone- that it only needs light and by
feeding it will kill my tanks water- any thoughts to that?
<Ouch!!!! Yes, some not so pleasant thoughts. Your anemone needs to be
fed meaty foods. Silversides, krill, lance fish, are all good
choices. I’m not familiar with the company you are dealing with, but I
can tell you they are giving you some very bad advice. I can’t tell you
how many people have been told the exact same thing. I usually hear
about it when the anemone is starving.> BTW- your website is great,
is there a membership? <Thank you! No, there is no
membership. This is a free service provided by Bob Fenner and several
volunteers that are dedicated to helping people like you and the
livestock you keep.> Thanks so much! Christyna <You’re
welcome. Christyna if you need more help with your anemone, please
provide me with your lighting information, age of set up, water
parameters, other equipment, tank mates and pictures if you can. Good
luck with your new anemone! Brenda> Shrinking BTA,
Entacmaea quadricolor – 4/10/07 <Hi Brad, Brenda here>
Hello, I am fairly new to aquariums. I have a 55 gallon salt water tank
with a satellite lighting system with dual actinic and dual daylight
compact fluorescent bulbs. I have a Bak pak protein skimmer, a cascade
300 filter, a power head, 40 lbs live rock and 30 lbs live sand. I have
had it for eight months. I just started playing with coral about 2
months ago. I have 1 tang, 1 maroon clown, I have one small mushroom
coral, 2 large feather dusters, 1 sponge coral, 1 polyp, I just
purchased a BTA (4 to 6 inch) 5 days ago it has been doing fine. It was
doing great this morning when I went to work. I came home at 6 it had
shriveled up drastically its bubble tips are about the size of long
grain rice. <A picture would help. If the tentacles are short and
stubby, it is likely hungry. It needs to eat meaty foods like krill,
silversides, lance fish or mysis shrimp.> Tested water, all levels
are at zero the temperature was low at 72. <The temperature is much
too low for an anemone. Gradually bring it up to around 79 – 80
degrees. What is the salinity, pH and alkalinity?> I do not know if
this is the problem or not please help. Has it died or what has gone
wrong. <It could be the problem, or it could be a combination of
things. It could be expelling waste, what have you been feeding it? It
may still be acclimating to its new environment. Anemones will shrivel
up from time to time to expel waste. I doubt that it is dead. If it
starts to look like it is melting or decaying get it out fast and do a
large water change. A dead anemone can really spike the ammonia.>
Thanks, Brad <You’re welcome! Brenda> Reef
tank with BTA and Sea Star without Live Rock – 4/7/07 Hi,
<Hello, Brenda here> I tried to find my answer on your
FAQs and such, but could not find what I was looking for. I started a
55 Gallon reef tank with live sand (no live rock). <No live
rock? This doesn’t sound like a reef tank.> My water tests have all
come out as 0’s. I have two tank-raised ocellaris clowns, two small
damsel fish, a small orange Linckia, and have added two small bubble tip
anemones. This is my first effort with anemones so I don’t know what
exactly they do when first introduced to the tank. Neither is attaching
to anything. They are both sitting on the bottom of the tank.
<Please research before you buy an animal.> One seems to be
repeatedly puffing up, and then gets smaller. The other has gotten very
small and looks to be spewing some slime out of its mouth. Is this what
they are supposed to do or are they dying? <Could be expelling
waste, but my guess is it is dying. You have not provided an adequate
environment for them.> If they are OK, will they attach to something
in the tank on their own or do they need a little guidance? <Your
tank needs live rock, for many reasons. I’m not sure what you are
expecting it to attach to.> I have a question about my little sea
star as well. It seems to ball up on itself quite a bit. It almost looks
like it is inside out. Is this supposed to happen? <Again, it sounds
like you have not provided it with an adequate environment.>
I’m new to all this. Please help. <This sounds like a new tank
also. These animals need an established environment, which includes
live rock. It sounds like you are rushing into things. Please search
WWM for the benefits of live rock, and the care requirements for your
anemone and sea star. I suggest you return your anemones and sea star
to the LFS until you can provide an established environment for these
animals.> Thanks, Mistie <You’re welcome! Brenda>
BTA, Possible Splitting, Entacmaea quadricolor – 3/15/07 Hi,
<Hello, Brenda here> I have checked out your site for more
information on my current problem. My Green BTA has developed a
small tear in its column and this morning when I checked on it its
guts were starting to hang out. <Is it splitting? Or was it
injured somehow?> I know this probably means it is not going to
survive too long but I was wondering what I could do to try and help
it recover. <Keep pristine water conditions.> It appears to
have torn itself coming out from behind a rock but was fine and all
puffed up an hour or so before I checked it according to my husband
so I was hoping it wasn’t too late. <A picture would be helpful,
but it sounds to me like it is splitting, and you will end up with
two very soon.> I have a 500 gallon reef tank and the BTA has
been in there over a week now feeding and looking fairly happy other
than hiding occasionally. Thanks for your help. Francesca
Wise <You’re welcome. Brenda> |
Re: BTA, Possible Splitting, Entacmaea quadricolor - 3/15/07
Hi Thanks for your reply, Things seem to have gotten a lot
worse since this morning and I think it’s probably now too late.
I have attached a picture. Is there anything we can try?
<The only thing you can do for it now is keep your water
parameters stable. Is it possible that the anemone was injured
by a power head? They have been known to recover from this. I
do agree it doesn’t look good. Keep a close eye one it. If
there are any signs of life, the anemone has a chance. Here is
a website with pictures of others that have been
injured. http://www.karensroseanemones.com/coverpowerheads.htm
> Thanks, Francesca <You’re welcome. Brenda> |
Goner
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Bubble Tip Anemone and Prime –
3/11/07 Bob, <Hi Cindy, Brenda here> I have a question
about a Bubble tip. My husband got this guy on Thursday. He put Prime
in the tank today. <Why? Prime is used to remove chlorine and
ammonia. It is also used during cycling to reduce ammonia, nitrate and
nitrite toxicity. You should be using RO or RO/DI water. An anemone
should not be added to a tank until it is well established. It is
recommended to wait six months to one year before adding an anemone.>
Now the Anemone is sucked back until it is very small and looks a little
jelly like. <It is not unusual for an anemone to deflate from time
to time. It needs to expel waste. If it looks like it is melting or
decaying, it is dead. Need to remove it, do a large water change and
monitor your water parameters closely.> What could be wrong with
this guy and is there anything we can do to help him? <Without more
information on your tank such as equipment, age, water parameters, and
as to why Prime was added, I can’t offer much help.> He did try to
feed him today but he wouldn't eat. <That is not unusual for a newly
introduced anemone.> Cindy <Sorry, need more
information. Brenda>
Bubble Tip Anenome... Dippppp! 3/1/07 Hi Crew,
<Patrick... email attachments of no more than a few hundred
Kbytes... what does this mean to you?> Your site has helped a
ton with me setting up my first reef tank. Thank you. <For?>
About my system: 75gal Oceanic with Oceanic stand, 20gal sump with
AquaMedic Protein Skimmer. 80lbs of live sand, 70 lbs of Totoka live
rock. Tank lighting comes from a 48 inch Coralife Aqualight with 2
150 watt metal halides, and 2 96 watt fluorescents. The tank has
fully cycled from what I can tell, all water parameters look fine.
(Tested last night.) Fish: 1 Purple Tang, 1 Tomini Tang, 5
Chromises, 2 Signal Gobies, 2 Purple Firefish, 1 Gold Striped Maroon
Clownfish. Inverts: 2 Cleaner Shrimp, 1 (new) bubble tip anemone.
SO... here is my question, (also, any other suggestions won't hurt,
I need all the help I can get:) Last night I got a new BTA that
looked great. I bought the piece of live rock that it was on at the
LFS so we wouldn't have to force it to move it's foot. <Good>
So I come home, acclimate it using the drip method for about 2
hours, then I submerse the bag it was in and take him out of the bag
underwater. All is going good. I put it towards the top of the tank
under one of the metal halides. <Mistake numero uno...> I
was hoping my clown fish would go into the BTA and sure enough he
went right for him. It this point I turned on the metal halide
because I wanted to see if he would react to the light. Sure enough,
his tentacles bulbed up nicely. Now, the clown fish started to swim
very aggressively in the BTA, and it looked like it didn't like it.
It began to move its foot and slowly creep down the rock pile
towards the bottom. All the while the clown fish is aggressively
swimming in it and keeping it from closing itself. So, now the BTA
is anchored towards the bottom of the tank, where it doesn't get
enough light. I am not going to try to move it and whenever I try to
move the rock it is on it just goes to the bottom of the tank. Also,
its tentacles are not bulb shaped anymore, I think because it isn't
getting sufficient light. Attached is a picture. Thanks in advance
for any advise on what I should do, Patrick <Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm and the linked
files in blue. BobF> | 
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BTA Troubles, Entacmaea quadricolor, Overstocking – 3/1/07 Hi
Crew, <Hi Patrick, Brenda here tonight> Your site has helped
a ton with me setting up my first reef tank. Thank you. <Happy to
hear you find it helpful.> About my system: 75gal Oceanic with
Oceanic stand, 20gal sump with AquaMedic Protein Skimmer. 80lbs of
live sand, 70 lbs of Totoka live rock. Tank lighting comes from a 48
inch Coralife Aqua light with 2 150 watt metal halides, and 2 96
watt fluorescents. The tank has fully cycled from what I can tell,
all water parameters look fine. (Tested last night.) Fish: 1
Purple Tang, 1 Tomini Tang, 5 Chromis, 2 Signal Gobies, 2 Purple
Firefish, 1 Gold Striped Maroon Clownfish. Inverts: 2 Cleaner
Shrimp, 1 (new) bubble tip anemone. <Twelve fish and an anemone in a
newly cycled tank is too many. You are way over stocked,
especially with a new setup. These fish need to be added
slowly, after each one has been quarantined for 30 days.
Please research the tank size requirements for you tangs, your
system is not large enough.> SO... here is my question, also, any
other suggestions won't hurt I need all the help I can get.
Last night I got a new BTA that looked great. I bought the piece of
live rock that it was on at the LFS so we wouldn't have to force it
to move its foot. So I come home, acclimated it using the drip
method for about 2 hours, then I submersed the bag it was in and
took him out of the bag underwater. All is going good. I put it
towards the top of the tank under one of the metal halides. I was
hoping my clown fish would go into the BTA and sure enough he went
right for him. At this point I turned on the metal halide because I
wanted to see if he would react to the light. Sure enough, his
tentacles bulbed up nicely. Now, the clown fish started to swim very
aggressively in the BTA, and it looked like it didn't like it.
<Maroon clownfish are known to be aggressive. Looking at the
pictures, the anemones size is border line compared to the size of
that Maroon. It is recommended that the anemone be a minimum
of three times larger than the Maroon. You system is not ready
for an anemone. You need to have a well established home.
It is recommended to wait a minimum of six months before introducing
an anemone.> It began to move its foot and slowly creep down the
rock pile towards the bottom. All the while the clown fish is
aggressively swimming in it and keeping it from closing itself. So,
now the BTA is anchored towards the bottom of the tank, where it
doesn't get enough light. I am not going to try to move it and
whenever I try to move the rock it is on it just goes to the bottom
of the tank. <It is still acclimating itself to its new
environment. Your lighting may be more intense that what it
was used to.> Also, its tentacles are not bulb shaped anymore, I
think because it isn't getting sufficient light. <It is not yet
completely understood why these anemones lose their bulbs or
bubbles. The anemone will roam until it finds a suitable
place.> Attached is a picture. <Looking at the pictures it
appears that this anemone is slightly bleached, or loss of
zooxanthellae. The anemone needs small portions of food fed
every 1 - 2 days with meaty foods soaked in Selcon. Given the
fact that your tank is not established and is over stocked, you can
not provide an adequate environment for it. I suggest looking
for a local hobbyist to look after the anemone, or returning to your
LFS until you can provide a better environment. Continue to
search WetWebMedia so you are able to gain more knowledge on
anemones, cycling, stocking, and quarantine.> Thanks in advance
for any advise on what I should do, Patrick <You are
welcome Patrick! Good luck with your setup. Brenda> |
Update: My new BTA is Shrinking, Entacmaea quadricolor – 3/2/07
<Hi Josh, Brenda following up> Thanks again for all you help
here. <You’re welcome.> To answer your questions from your
response: The anemones mouth is gaping wide open as long as it is
deflated like that (as pictured). <Yes, I see that. That is
not a good sign. However, there is still hope.> Then his mouth
closes up nice and tight when he re-inflates (as pictured). <It
looks much better, but not as tightly closed as I’d like to see. It
has also expelled some (not all) of its zooxanthellae (bleached).>
The lighting at the fish store it was kept in was a couple small
PC's which seem like plenty for the size tank it was in.
<Would need to know wattage and tank size to be sure. Unfortunately
we don’t know what misery this little guy went through to get to the
LFS. Shipping can be harsh on them.> I actually get all my
stuff from one of your sponsors - That Fish Place - fantastic place
I must say. <Yes, I have a wish list of things to purchase
there.> I am not overfeeding the anemone as most of the time
when I am home he is too deflated to eat anyhow. I have managed to
get him a small piece of shrimp 2 different days in the week that
I've had him. Although, I have seen him catch some of the fish food
and eat that as well. <Being able to catch food is an excellent
sign!!!!!> The lighting, filtration, tank mates and equipment I
have are as follows: - 75G tank - established 4 months <An
aquarium established 6 months or more is recommended for an
anemone.> - Coralife Lunar Aqualite PC setup (260W) - (2) -
Aquaclear 50 power heads - Red Sea Prism protein skimmer
<This skimmer has not had the best reviews. I strongly suggest
considering upgrading.> - 50lbs live rock - adding more later
<Good, I recommend a minimum of 1 ½ lbs per gallon> - (5) -
large turbo snails - (9) - small snails - (10) - tiny blue
leg hermits - (10) - red leg hermits <Yikes, that’s a lot of
hermit crabs. Crabs have been known to pester and sometimes kill
small fish, anemones, and polyps. The rule of thumb for crabs is
one or less per 10 gallons.> - (2) - yellow tail damsels -
(1) - red firefish - (2) - cinnamon clowns - (1) - green
serpent Star - (2) - very small false percula clowns - they are
temporarily partitioned off in this tank till my wife’s tank matures
here shortly and are placing those in her tank. Those clowns, one
damsel, the fire fish and the anemone are on the partitioned
side. <Make sure the anemone is getting enough flow.> The
tanks parameters are very stable and seem not to budge much at all
which is a little frustrating since a couple of the numbers aren't
where I would like them to be. I keep the temperature between
76-78. The salinity is at 1.024, PH - 8.3, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate –
20 (can't get that to move, even after a water change). I do 10%
water changes weekly. <Your temperature and salinity are a
little low. Try a target temperature of 79-80, and target a
salinity of 1.026. Start topping off with premixed saltwater to
bring the salinity up. You need to work on those nitrates some
more. Anemones need pristine water conditions. A better skimmer
would help with that. Do you have, or have you considered a
refugium? That will also help with the nitrates. More information
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
> Anyhow, the two pictures attached are new. The deflated
picture is from last night at 11:00 and the inflated picture is this
morning at 6:30. It is doing this religiously once a day but
it is never the same time. He is expelling waste every time.
<If he starts loosing more color, he is expelling zooxanthellae, not
waste. It is still a possibility that he is still acclimating too
your light.> I have been feeding it raw shrimp, what else should
I feed it or is that sufficient? <The little guy needs some
Selcon! http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/product/productInfo.web?infoParam.mode=1&infoParam.itemKey=207914 You
will need to soak small portions of food in Selcon every 1 – 2
days. His color should start to improve. Start with about 1/8”
portions. His tentacles are a little shorter than they should be, a
sign he is hungry. The foods I recommend are silversides, Mysis
shrimp, krill, lance fish, along with the raw shrimp you are
using. All of these can be soaked in Selcon before feeding.>
Also, as there are none right now, can I put ANY other inverts in
with the anemone in the future? <Most snails will be
fine. Shrimp are usually fine. Sometimes they will bother an
anemone, especially if there is not food readily available to
them. Make sure they are reef safe and that you have researched
them before you do. Crabs are unpredictable and can be predators,
but are still listed as reef safe most of the time.> Thanks
again, Josh <You’re welcome! Brenda> |
Re: BTA Troubles, Entacmaea quadricolor, Overstocking – 3/2/07
Hello Bob and Brenda, <Hi Patrick, Brenda following up.>
Thank you both for your quick replies. <You’re welcome!>
Mr. Fenner, I don't know what you mean by "Bubble Tip Anemone...
Dippppp!" <Not quite sure myself.> <<It's derogatory... STOP
sending too-large files/attachments... Brenda... reject these...
please. RMF>> I'm sorry about the size of the attachments. I
thought a picture may help you to understand what I was talking
about. In the future I won't attach a picture. <Please do
send pictures. Without them my chances of helping you with your
anemone decrease. The problem was the size of the
pictures. They were placed in my in-box while I was out. It
was several hours before I read my mail. They were causing
problems with the server and Bob desperately need to move them.>
Also, when I said your site has helped me with my new tank I
meant that by reading your advice to other people with similar
issues as me I was able to find solutions. Brenda, thank you
for your in-depth advice. <You’re welcome> The person at
my LFS said it would be okay to put the anemone in the tank, but
after reading your email I have brought it back to the store.
<Good choice. Once your tank is suitable you can try an anemone
again if you desire. I also recommend you research everything
before your purchase. The LFS is there to make money.> In
terms of the tank being overstocked, I have had the tank going
since the middle of December and have just now finished adding
the fish for the tank. Also, I took out 3 Chromis and the Tomini
tang. Hopefully this reduces the bioload. So far though,
everything is going very well. Thank you again for your advice
and Bob I apologize again for the size of the message. <Bob
will see your message.> Patrick <Good luck with your
hobby. Brenda> | 
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My new BTA is Shrinking, Entacmaea quadricolor – 2/28/07
<Hi Josh, Brenda here> I just got a bubble tip anemone 4 days ago on
a Friday evening. Sunday morning 10:30 it looked great, then I left and
came home around 2:00 and it was shriveled up to about 1/4 of the size
and excreting a white/clear slime. <It is expelling waste.>
Also, the mouth was enlarged and looked inverted with some curly stringy
stuff coming out. <Yikes! Is the anemones mouth tightly closed the
rest of the time?> For all practical purposes it looked about 10
minutes away from death. <I have seen that often. I remember being
in a panic the first few times. My anemones have me trained now.> I
checked all my water parameters and everything was great, I did a 10%
water change anyway. We then left again around 4:00 and came home
around 8:30 and he looked great, completely re-inflated and actually the
overall body looked bigger than the day before. <Great!>
He did well all day Monday until about an hour after I got home and he
started shriveling up again and this time was excreting a brown
substance which I am assuming was waste. <Yes, anemone waste is not
always the same color.> He then continued to shrivel up as bad, or
worse, than Sunday morning. I though he was a goner this time for
sure. Nothing I could do at this point but to just wait it out. He was
still that way when I went to bed around 11:00. I got up the next
morning and checked him before I went to work around 6:30 and he was
completely re-inflated again and yet still looked even bigger and
perfectly healthy. What is he doing? <Possibly
acclimating to your lighting. Do you know what kind of lighting it was
kept under previously?> From what I understand, anemones don't
typically shrivel up that bad right? <Wrong, they can shrivel up to
almost nothing.> I know it is hard diagnosing without a picture.
<Yes, but we still try.> I don't know if it is just still
acclimating to my tank or what. <Yes, it is likely still
acclimating to its new home, but will still expel waste from time to
time.> Does the anemone coming back what seems bigger each time have
any significance? <Not necessarily, would need to see a picture. My
guess is that it is still part of the acclimation process.> I have
yet not even seen a picture on the web with one shriveled up as bad as
mine was. <I can fix that. http://www.karensroseanemones.com/deflating.htm Great
website! Be sure to read through all of it.> Any ideas?
<Most of what I’m reading seems normal. The curly white appendages you
are seeing, is not typically seen externally on an anemone. Are you
over feeding? I suggest meaty foods, no bigger than the anemones mouth
2 – 3 times a week. Make sure you have adequate lighting, filtration,
and water parameters. Also make sure your anemones color is up to par,
meaning no loss of zooxanthellae. If you have any more problems or
questions, please give us your exact water parameters, including
salinity and temperature along with your equipment list, age of your
setup, other tank mates, and a picture if possible.> Any help would
be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much - your website is extremely
helpful for so many other things I want to learn about. Josh
<You’re welcome! Good luck with your new anemone! Brenda>
Problems with Bubble Tip Anemone, Entacmaea quadricolor – 2/22/07
Hi, <Hi Brian, Brenda here. I received your second e-mail
before I had a chance to respond to the first, so I will take care
of them both now.> I love the site – thanks! <Thank you!>
I have a new rose tipped anemone in my 75 gallon tank. There is a
satellite light fixture with 4 65 watt bulbs (two are 10000k, and
two are actinic). It seemed great yesterday, but this morning it
looks bad (see attached photo – sorry for the bad resolution, I only
have my phone with me at work). I gave it a piece of defrosted
krill yesterday afternoon. Is it a goner? The water is seemingly
great – nitrates at 0, specific gravity at 1.0225. <Too low,
gradually bring it up to 1.026.> I’ve got about 100 pounds of
Florida and Fiji live rock. There is also a 30 gallon refugium with
miracle mud below the tank. Thanks! Brian
Resurrection! Hi, Looks like all is well. The anemone
spit out some brown goo, and it’s back to normal. <Glad to hear
it is looking better. It was probably expelling waste. Let us know
if it starts to bleach (loss of zooxanthellae) or if you have any
other problems. Work on bringing the salinity up gradually. Also
search WetWebMedia FAQs for more information on these anemones.>
Thanks, Brian <Your welcome. Brenda> | 
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Joes Juice for Aiptasia Control Versus BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor -
2/4/07 Hello, <Hi Sharon, Brenda here> I have 3 BTAs and
an Aiptasia problem. Before using Joe’s Juice, I would like to know if
this will harm the BTAs. <There is mixed results with Joe’s Juice
for Aiptasia control. To answer your question, too much at once may
harm your BTA. If you choose this route, I would not use it near your
BTA. Start out slow and watch your livestock closely.> My first
thought was to move the infested rock to a bucket filled with saltwater
and zap them there, but all of my rock can be removed. Help! <An
alternative that I have used is Peppermint Shrimp, Lysmata Wurdemanni.
Unfortunately others have had mixed results with Peppermint
Shrimp. There is more information on both here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/aiptasia_impressions/aiptaisia_impressions.htm
> Sharon <Hope this helps. Brenda> Bleached Sebae
Anemone - 01/07/07 Hey guys! <<Hello Michael>> Would
first just like to say what a great job you all do to help us out with
answers we should already know if we had just done our homework
ourselves! <<Hmm, much truth to that...but folks also wish/need to
call on other's opinions/greater experience in the trade...and many
merely want to validate their own thoughts/findings. But as you state,
much of the information is already available for the reading...and even
if one doesn't find the answers their looking for, reading beforehand
can often make it easier to ask/bring to light the right questions>>
Here are my tank parameters - 75-gallon 48x18x20 H.O.T. Refugium
with skimmer - Razor Caulerpa 2 Fluval 404 with modified spray bars
Prizm Skimmer Coralife PC 260W, 2 actinic and 2 10000K placed @
surface of tank 9 watt U.V. Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 20 <<Mmm, edging up there...>> pH - 8.4 - 8.6
Temp. - 78 Calcium - 380 Alk - (don’t really know - The 5 in 1
strips I use say over 300ppm) <<The dip-strips are worthless in my
opinion...much better to invest in a titration test kit (Salifert,
Seachem, etc.)>> Mushrooms, Zoos, Star polyps, small frag of Monti,
Condy. All flourishing! My concern is with a Sebae anemone I have
bought within the last week (first mistake). <<Indeed, not a good
addition...I do hope you have read our information on anemone
care/systems>> I saw a gorgeous white Sebae with yellow tips at a
LFS (second mistake) and I had to have it. <<No such
creature/color...bleached>> Well, of course, it doesn't seem to want
to attach to anything or eat. <<This animal is possibly stressed
beyond recovery>> I have tried mysis, krill, and silversides. The
only way I have gotten him to eat is by gently sticking a piece of
silverside literally in his mouth and gently force him to take it down.
<<But does it stay down? Likely the food is too large (minced meaty
foods are best), and you are also probably causing more stress/possible
physical injury>> He has very minimal stickiness, which worries me a
lot. I am really curious about his behavior however. When the lights
are off he seems to attach to something for the night and has decent
polyp extension, and when the lights go on, he loses his foothold and
shrinks up. <<Hmm, sounds like a reaction to the lighting due to the
absence of UV filtering pigmentation in the bleached anemone's
tissue...though I wouldn't have though your specified PC lighting to be
that strong>> At night looks like a bleached Sebae but during the
day he shrinks up and almost looks like a bubble coral. <<Well
Michael, the coral is likely instinctively opening at night to feed as
this is when the water column would normally be full of plankton (you
might try feeding after lights-out with a slurry of Sweetwater Plankton,
Mysis, and Cyclop-Eeze...or similar. With no symbiotic algae in its
tissue to foster photosynthesis the "daytime" reaction may simply be a
way to conserve energy for the nighttime feedings...or perhaps it is
truly irritated by the light (hopefully there are no clownfish present
exacerbating the problem)>> His tentacles are half the size and very
round almost egg shaped. Any idea as to why he is doing this?
<<Tentacle size/shape can be variable due to environmental conditions or
the mood/health of the anemone. This animal was probably on the decline
when purchased...should have done your homework beforehand my friend>>
Will the Condylactis help or hurt in his survival? (help with zoox or
hurt with chemical warfare?) <<As stated in much of our data re, it
is never good to mix anemones with sessile inverts, and usually worse
with other anemones. Not only due to the potential for disaster if the
motile anemone decides to go walkabout, but these organisms detect one
another's presence and yes, chemical warfare becomes a factor. Couple
this with the Sebae anemone's weakened state, the very noxious nature of
the Zoanthids and Corallimorphs, and the Condylactis' ability to release
nematocysts to physically attack the Sebae...well...you do the math...>>
I hope this is enough information, please let me know if you would like
a picture or more info. <<This is enough information to know the
Sebae is likely doomed I'm afraid. It's not unheard of for the odd
specimen to recover from such bleaching events...but under the current
circumstances I hold out little hope>> Much Appreciated! Michael
<<Regards, EricR>> Bubble Tip Anemone Trouble
1/5/07 Hello, First of all, I love your site. Your
site has helped me many times and I think I may need your help again.
I have had a bubble tip anemone for about 3 months now and it has begun
to look very ill. First of all, when it arrived it looked very
healthy and was greenish/ blue in color. <Unusual... perhaps
artificially dyed...> It moved around for a week or two and never
found a spot it really could stay in until about 2 months ago. <Also
a bad sign...> Anyways, it has recently become almost pure white
in color. <Bleached> This could mean that he was bleached right?
<Yes...> My friend also ordered an anemone from the same site and
his BTA seems to be losing its color too. <Can be "just" shipping
stress...> Also, my anemone chose to settle upside down (hanging
upside down), <... bad> rooted to the bottom of an overhang of
my live rock. In this spot it receives virtually no light at all but
hasn't moved for over a month now. At first it came out daily and
slowly began to open less and less until recently when it does not open
at all. I try to feed it 2-3 times a week. <Good> Here is my
problem now. I woke up this morning to find that my coral banded shrimp
was eating part of the anemone (yuck...). <Mmm, yes... Stenopids are
quite opportunistic...> I thought the anemone was definitely dead
but it still moves a little and opens partially before closing back
up. Anyways, I got the shrimp away from it but that is not all that is
wrong with it. My BTA now refuses food by holding it and then dropping
it. Also, its mouth is now sticking out and there seem to be frilly
things hanging out of the place where the shrimp took a bite. I am
currently trying feeding it with foods that are vitamin enriched but as
far as I can tell it is a lost cause. It did not seem to be in bad
shape until the shrimp attacked it. I have owned a few anemones
successfully but this is the first one that seems to really be in
trouble (if it was bleached would that be the cause of this decline in
health?). <Oh yes> I have tried everything I can but nothing
seems to be working. As soon as he decided to settle under that rock
and especially after he was attacked by the coral banded shrimp (I have
removed the shrimp from the tank) the BTA's condition has worsened and I
cannot remove him from the rock without tearing him or chiseling off
part of the rock. <Best to move the anemone with the rock...
attached... to another setting... one with a higher nutrient
availability... really, a "dirty" tank with high/er nitrate,
phosphate... mulm on the bottom, subdued lighting...> My main
question is whether or not I should let him be and see if he can recover
<Very unlikely in the present setting> or try and take him out and
let him live out what seems to be the final moments of his life in my
quarantine tank. Also, if he passes away how would I remove him without
contaminating the tank. I heard that siphoning out a dead anemone may
be a good idea, is that true? <Mmm, yes... if decomposed to that
point> Thanks for any help you can give me, Michael. <I
would move the rock/anemone... to the QTank if this is the best...
change water out with the gunk you siphon out from the substrate... Your
and your friends anemones were likely "doomed" through improper
"handling" through the "chain of custody", twixt collection, holding,
shipping through parties... a lack of lighting, feeding... other sources
of stress... I would contact your supplier re... the more such data
points they have, use, the more likely something/s will be done to limit
such losses. Bob Fenner>
Success! BTA... health, clown symb. 12/17/06 Hello To
All. I just wanted to take a moment to thank all you.
Your informative sight has given me the ability to successfully
mate a pair of wonderful animals that belong together. Took me a
couple tries. I had a percula clown who was not interested in my
BTA. So, the poor guy went from a 150 gal tank to a 10 gal hospital
tank. He's fine, but the tomato would of beat him up. <Oh yes>
That and my son wanted him. :-) I have browsed your sight left and
right and continue to do so. All the articles i read and some
personal attention through emails are all greatly appreciated.
Please see enclosed pic of my tomato clown fish 2 days old and a 3
week old BTA. <This last badly bleached...> Not even 24
hours in the tank, well as you can see he's having a blast.
Although, i feel the clown is a bit large for the size on the
anemone but he doesn't seem to mind. <Do keep a close eye
here... Clowns can be too exuberant... for their hosts>
Right now i am running 2 150w MH bulbs. Is that enough light or do
you think i should upgrade to 2 x 250w MH bulbs? <Mmm, not
necessarily, no> Just wondering. All I can do to make him grow
is make sure my water is in check, and feed him. In time, he'll
grow. It seems like the BTA accepted him. My clown has been cleaning
him. All good stuff. Thanks again. I really love your web
site. <Ah, good... Your Anemone needs to re-incorporate useful
endosymbiotic algae... Do a bit of searching re this issue please...
and thank you for sharing your success, enthusiasm. Bob Fenner> | 
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Re: Success! 12/17/06 Thank - you so much bob!
<Welcome> I am not really sure what you meant by your comment
here: <This last badly bleached...> <Please see, read on WWM
re... the indices, search tool...> In regards to this comment:
<Do keep a close eye here... Clowns can be too exuberant... for
their hosts> What do I do in this case? <Again... reading>
I am a bit worried about that. He seems to be a but rough with him.
Before I had this clown, my BTA would be fully open! Not he has
parts of him open and certain parts covered. I just thought it may
take some time for the BTA to get used to its host. Last night the
clown was doing allot of moving around here. 3 weeks later the BTA
has not moved. Only once the first day after that he seemed to be
happy. in regards to this comment: <useful endosymbiotic algae>
I most definitely will and thanks again for the advice. <Ah,
good. BobF> |
Re: Success! Bleached BTA 12/18/06 In regards to: <This
last badly bleached...> <Please see, read on WWM re... the
indices, search tool...> Just to clarify, you want me to do
some more reading on an article title " This last badly
bleached"? or did you want me to search for an article titled
the indices <The article, FAQs on BTAs...:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
and the linked files above...> Also what article should I
search for in regards to the exuberant clown? <Please...
learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM> Should I type
that or is there a title or link you can recommend? I have read
almost every FAQ on Anemones and clown fish. Most clown and
anemone behaviors. Sorry, hope I am not a bother.
<Please make known what process you've employed to find this
information... specifically. Am desirous of amending what we
have in the way of "instructions", examples of how to find what
folks are looking for. BobF> Re: bleached?
12/18/06 Hi Bob, You saying that my BTA looks
bleached. Now I understand. Please note that when that photo you
saw was taken, it was taken at night, w/ no light on or
anything. What ever color you see in the pic came from the
camera's flash. Can that be the reason? <Mmm, no> I
never really thought it was a problem because he does have some
color. His tip when they are bubbled up during the day are
white, but he was always a cream color. <Read my friend...
Don't write, read. RMF> |
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