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FAQs about Trachyphylliid Coral Disease/Health,
Parasites, Pests 4 Related
Articles:
Coral Pests and Disease;
pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve,
Trachyphylliid Corals,
Trachyphyllia Reproduction Report,
Related FAQs: Trachyphyllia
Disease 1, Trachyphyllia
Disease 2, Trachyphyllia Disease 3,
Trachyphyllia Disease 5, &
Open Brain Coral 1,
Open Brain Coral 2,
Trachyphylliid Identification,
Trachyphylliid Behavior,
Trachyphylliid Selection,
Trachyphylliid Compatibility,
Trachyphylliid Feeding,
Trachyphylliid Systems,
Trachyphylliid Reproduction,
Stony Corals,
Stonies 2,
Stonies 3,
LPS Stony Corals,
Coral System Set-Up,
Coral System Lighting,
Stony Coral Selection,
Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health,
Propagation, Stony
Coral Behavior,
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Open Brain not doing well!
Pls Help. Poisoning, starving, reading 12/31/09
Hello Crew, <Justin> I got a open brain that has not expanded or
shown it's feeding tentacles in over a week. <Mmmm> This all
started when I added my normal C-balance 2 part solution to my 90g Tank.
<How added? I hope trust as dissolved via new water added as during a
water change> As soon as I added the KH part, it immediately closed
up and been that way since. <Please see WWM re supplement use...
start here: http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm> It's mouth has
receded a little bit and has yet to allow itself to feed. It's not
getting bad, nor is it getting better. I normally feed once a week,
<... and Trachyphyllia re Feeding:
http://wetwebmedia.com/trachyfdgfaqs.htm need to be fed more often
than this...> either freeze dried krill or a piece of frozen shrimp.
<...> My water conditions are: 0-ammonia, 0-Nitrate, <An
essential nutrient...> 0-Nitrite, PH 8.3, Calcium 420ppm, KH
176-196.9ppm range, Temp 80-81*F, Salinity .025. The tank is a 90g with
2x 250MH 14000k, and 2 VHO actinics. I had him placed in the sand
bed, but recently moved him under my frag rack. Assuming the reduced
light may help him out. On Saturday Night I gave him a Reef Dip and a
strange Black worm and Bristle worm came off of him. Also, I saw one
of my Peppermint Shrimps picking at his mouth the other night, so looks
like I will have to cover him at night. <Maybe...> What else can I
do to get him back to his normal state? <Better water quality,
feeding likely> I've tried multiple forums with no resolution! Any
advice or help in this matter to cure my brain is greatly appreciate.
He's my favorite piece!!!!!! Pls look at attached pics! Thanks
in advance !!! -Justin <Please read the above citation areas and
the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
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Re: Open
Brain not doing well! Pls Help/Thanks!! 12/31/08
Hello Crew, > <Justin> Hey Bob, Thanks for responding back so
quickly!!!! <<Welcome>> > I got a open brain that has not expanded
or shown it's feeding tentacles in over a week. ><Mmmm>I know! Too
Strange, but he seems to be getting better IMO! <<Ah, good>> >
This all started when I added my normal C-balance 2 part solution to my
90g Tank. > <How added? I hope trust as dissolved via new water added
as during a water change>No! I added to water stream from my return
pump. Did not know I could add during water change. I use Reef Crystals,
so did not want to overdue the Calcium and KH. <<Best to pre-mix the
water, store for days, a week... and add supplements then... or blend
slowly, well in a sump...>> > As soon as I added the KH part, it
immediately closed up and been that way since. > <Please see WWM re
supplement use... start here: >
http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm> Thanks for the info!
<<Welcome>> > It's mouth has receded a little bit and has yet to
allow itself to feed. > It's not getting bad, nor is it getting
better. I normally feed once a week, > <... and Trachyphyllia re
Feeding: > http://wetwebmedia.com/trachyfdgfaqs.htm > need to be
fed more often than this...>Ok! Is freeze dried shrimp good or
bad? <<Read on!>> either freeze dried krill or a piece of frozen
shrimp. > <...> > My water conditions are: 0-ammonia, 0-Nitrate,
> <An essential nutrient...> Good! I try to keep the water clean!
<<Still, some nitrate presence is necessary>> > 0-Nitrite, PH 8.3,
Calcium 420ppm, KH 176-196.9ppm range, Temp 80-81*F, Salinity .025. The
tank is a 90g with 2x 250MH 14000k, and 2 VHO actinics. > I had him
placed in the sand bed, but recently moved him under my frag rack.
Assuming the reduced light may help him out. On Saturday Night I
gave him a Reef Dip and a strange Black worm and Bristle worm came off
of him. > Also, I saw one of my Peppermint Shrimps picking at his
mouth the other night, so looks like I will have to cover him at night.
> <Maybe...> The cover has worked out so far. Got multiple holes in it
to allow flow. <<Good>> > What else can I do to get him back to
his normal state? > <Better water quality, feeding likely>Based upon
the water parameters I noted, is there anything that is off? Will feed
more often! <<Need some NO3... I would remove part or give up on
whatever chemical filtrant use you have going...>> > I've tried
multiple forums with no resolution! Any advice or help in this matter to
cure my brain is greatly appreciate. He's my favorite piece!!!!!! >
Pls look at attached pics! > Thanks in advance !!! > -Justin >
<Please read the above citation areas and the linked files above. Bob
Fenner> Thanks for the help Bob. Happy New Year!! Wish my Brain
luck!! :) <<Mine too! D'oh!!! BobF>>
Re: Open
Brain not doing well! Pls Help/Thanks!! 1/4/09 Hey Bob
and Crew,
<Hello again Justin> The Trachy is making an awesome recovery.
<Ah, good!> Even though his mouth is recovering, he can still eat
from what I can see. How often shall I feed him to speed up his
recovery??? <See WWM... two, three times per week> And Peppermint
shrimp are they really safe with these types of "fleshy" corals?
<Usually, yes> I ask cause I've seen them steal and eat from the
mouth of this Trachy and I suspect them in aiding into his decline the
past couple of weeks. Shall I pull them out of the tank??? <Or screen
him out for now... like with an all plastic colander or "berry basket"
turned over the specimen> Thanks for all the help! Justin L.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
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Open Brain Coral Help, hlth.
11/30/08 Hello Crew, I'm hoping you can give me some advice on
making my green open brain coral happy again. When I first purchased it it would
fully open and would look like this.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KAYesZ3Ldi9SVZzRSl5a6w
After a few months (beginning of summer) it stopped opening but continued to
live. During this time my nitrates went through the roof, 50 mg/L. Here is the
most it will expand now.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/EzTBpRzNs-nVvkTHzmCEhw
When completely closed it looks like this
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HEJB1__C8iAbesZGeISA5Q
First of all can you confirm that this is an Open Brain coral? <The common
name "open brain coral" can be used for different species... Lobophyllia,
Symphyllia, Trachyphylliidae, etc. See here:
http://www.asira.org/lobophylliasymphylliaothermussideans
http://www.asira.org/trachyphylliidae > Perhaps the person at the LFS was
incorrect. I've seen other open brains before but these had a skeleton that ran
around the perimeter of the coral. This specimen has ridges with individual
polyps with mouths between the ridges. I have also never seen this specimen put
out sweeper tentacles. When the coral first stopped opening I thought it was
because my Ocellaris clown was hosting it.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hPndSXqGFGsEF4m-8dREQA It has since stopped
doing. I do see my yellow tang occasionally picking at it as if there is
something growing on it. It doesn't remove any flesh from it as far as I can
tell. <The fish was/is likely picking of pods or other snacks on the
coral...> Here is what I have done so far: 1. Installed a refugium with a
deep sand bed and also included Chaeto algae. Nitrates dropped to 10 mg/L one
month ago. They are now at 0.5 mg/L and still dropping as measured with a
Salifert kit. <very good> 2. Replaced my PC fluorescent bulbs one month ago
(260W total 2 10,000K bulbs and 2 actinic bulbs). They had been installed for
about a year. I also added some supplemental lighting using 4 6500K spiral
compact fluorescent bulbs (100W total). 3. I lowered my temperature from 79
degF to 75 degF over the course of the last three weeks. <Bad idea... corals
should be in water at about 80 to 82F> I remembered that at the beginning of
the summer I raised the tank temp to 79 degF because I realized that the water
temp was fluctuating with the room temp during the day when the house was
getting hot. Perhaps it didn't like the higher temp. Lowering the temperature
seems to have made some improvement. It expands a little but never fully
anymore. All my other inverts are doing great. My Pom-pom Xenia pulses like
crazy and is spreading like a weed. I have Star Polyps, Frogspawn and Tooth
Coral that are also growing and spreading. My green bubble tip anemone which was
shrinking before replacing the bulbs is now growing again. Here are my tank
parameters: 72 gallon with apx 80 lbs live rock Tank age: 13 months
Nitrate: 0.5 mg/L <Try to lower this if you can.> pH: 8.1 Alkalinity: 2.5
Calcium: 420 Temp: 75 degF Specific Gravity: 1.024 <SG of 1.025 to 1.026
would be better for the coral.> Any advice you can provide will be greatly
appreciated. <Do you have a lid on this tank? If so, take it off. Other than
that, I would recommend some activated carbon filtration. Also, try target
feeding the coral at night (after lights out). Turn the pumps off for about an
hour. Do this daily for a week or so and see if this doesn't help improve the
coral's extension.> Thanks, Paul <Good luck, Sara M.>
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There's a crab living in my
brain! 11/26/08 Crew - In the picture below you will see my
green open brain (Trachyphyllia geoffroyi) coral that I've had for about
a year now. As will see there is a very dark, black in fact, spot on the
tissue of the brain. In the center, if you look real close, you will see
a raised almost circular disk. That "disk" if you will is the shell of a
very small what I presume to be hermit crab (I can actually see tiny
claws emerge from behind the disk when I feed the brain!). <Mmm, not
likely a "Hermit", but other animal... perhaps a Squat Lobster:
http://wetwebmedia.com/galatheids.htm> The crab has inhabited the
brain since I purchased the coral but at that point I had no clue that
it'd be a crab actually living within the tissue of the animal as I
thought the disk to be a natural part of the coral (it was not black
when I bought the animal). Ok, so where do go from here? <"Which
is the way to beer?"> I can tell you that the coral does not appear
to be stressed (but who really knows) about the ordeal but I have to
imagine that there could be a down side here at some point. Or maybe I
am wrong and there is a natural symbiotic relationship between the two
living beings and life goes on. <This is the route I would go> So,
there you have it; your response much appreciated for sure.
[IMG]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p151/gdevine_photo/OpenBrainwithHerm
it.jpg[/IMG] <There are many types and degrees of "living
together"... that can be more deleterious to the host than what one
might desire... But in this case... you've had both of these animals for
"about a year now"... I'd keep both and enjoy them... Perhaps the
Galatheid "does things" for the Trachyphylliid... keeps out other, more
harmful predators perchance. Bob Fenner>
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Trachyphyllia Health Question/Help
7/9/08
Dear Crew,
<Mike Maddox here with you this afternoon>
I have a Trachyphyllia geoffroyi (sold to me as a Wellsophyllia) that
I've had for about 8 months.
<Cool corals>
I fear that it has started to deteriorate and/or die.
<Hardy specimens as a rule, just need lots of food>
When I first purchased it, it was beautiful - red and tan striped and
always puffed up at night with very sticky tentacles out and ready for
food. It has slowly started to fade - its red coloration is now very
faded, and it looks very retracted most of the time (I can see the
ridges of its skeleton through its flesh), although it does puff up a
bit at night. I have been feeding each "mouth" pieces of silverside
soaked in Selcon about once per week, and I also squirt Cyclop-eeze
around it with a turkey baster when I'm feeding my Capnella.
Unfortunately, however, my Cleaner Shrimps tend to sneak in while I'm
not looking and steal the silversides. From time to time, I have tried
to cover the Open Brain to protect its food, but, and I'm sorry to say,
I know I've fallen down on the job with this coral and not paid enough
attention to ensure that it is healthy. I take the blame for its demise
but I am committed to bringing this animal back from the dead. More
troubling, however, is that I noticed last night that a portion of its
skeleton is showing and there is some tissue recession. My Copper Band
Butterfly was picking at this area. I immediately got it out of my tank
(a 110g), dabbed the exposed skeleton/tissue with Lugol's, and placed it
in my 30g cube with no shrimps (other than a Pistol Shrimp - the water
parameters between my two tanks are pretty much identical).
I then fed each of its 3 mouths a piece of Selcon-soaked silverside, and
it did eat them. This morning when I checked on it, it had puffed up
nicely, as it used to do after a nice meal. The lighting in my 110g is
2x250W HQI (14,000K).
<Waaay too much lighting for this species! It's depressingly common for
aquarists (especially for the "fad" aquarists frequenting RC and the
like - those types literally put halides on their nano tanks!) to
greatly 'over-light' their reef tanks these days. This is an "LPS" coral
that in the wild lives on sandy bottoms in less-than-clear water> The
lighting in my 30g (which is 17" or 18" deep, but I have
a 4" DSB) is 2 x 10,000K 24W HO T5s and 2 x 420nm 24W T5s.
<Much more appropriate lighting for this coral. I normally would warn
you against moving an already deteriorating animal, but in this case I
think it's a good thing>
I know this is probably not enough light for this coral, but I would
rather it be in the 30g until it can recover.
<Sounds like the ideal environment, actually - I'd keep it there
permanently>
My plan is to feed this coral every night with Selcon-soaked
silversides. Is there anything else I can do to help it recover?
<Feed every day, and introduce a bit of variety as well. Any minced,
meaty seafood will work. Once it's recovered (and it likely will) feed
3x a week>
Once it recovers, I am considering trading it back to my LFS because I
don't want to keep it in my 30g and I think my 110g is just not
hospitable.
<You're right about the 110 not being ideal>
As always, thank you for your help.
<Anytime>
Andy
<M. Maddox>
Re: Trachyphyllia Health
Question/Help 7/9/08
Mike, thanks for the quick response.
<Gone back studying. BobF here>
Just for the record, the Open Brain was positioned in a relatively
shaded area of my tank, not directly under either of the halides. My
tank is 30" deep, and the lights sit up another 6 or 7".
<Mmm, I would position this animal/colony more in direct light at this
depth>
I would love to keep this coral once it recovers, but it is just too big
for my little 30g. Moreover, I have a Yellow Watchman Goby/Pistol Shrimp
and a Pearly Jawfish in the 30g,
which are constantly reorganizing things and tossing sand everywhere.
Would that irritate the coral?
Andy
<Possibly so... Perhaps it can be set up a bit higher, raised on a bowl
shaped rock, above the bottom a few inches. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/trachysysfaqs.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Trachyphyllia geoffroyi - Follow Up for Mike M./Bob F
7/12/08
Hey Crew. I always like to update you guys/gals on issues
with which you've helped me. Unfortunately, I've deleted the
correspondence that I sent/received last week and can't for the
life of me find it on WWM by searching, so I apologize . . .
Hopefully, you remember that I wrote to WWM about my Open Brain
that wasn't doing so well in my 110g under 500W of HQI. It was
shriveled and had some tissue recession--my Copper Band
Butterfly was picking at it. I moved it to my 30g tank with
2x24W 10,000K and 2x420nm T5s. Mike Maddox/Bob F answered some
questions for me. Anyway . . I've been feeding it silversides
and/or raw oyster soaked in Selcon every night, and wouldn't you
know it . . . the injured portion of the Open Brain has healed
and the coral looks better than it has ever looked (other than
the bleached color). It opens up way more than it ever did in my
110g. What a difference 5 days, attention and good conditions
can make . . . I've attached a picture of what it looks like
now. I wish I had a picture of the "before" so you could see the
difference. Thanks for your guidance. I think I'm going to keep
this animal in my 30g even though it takes up a lot of space--I
hope to bring back it's beautiful red/brown coloration.
Cheers!
Andy
<Ahh! Thank you for this follow-up. Congratulations on your
success. BobF> |
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Bleaching Open Brain - 6/29/08
Hey
<Hello>
I just started with my corals and as a common beginner mistake, I believe I
photoshocked my open brain coral. This is evident by the excretion of goo like
substance, most probably the symbiotic zooxanthellae. I was wondering if the
coral can recover from this or would I have to watch it waste away? Any
remedies?
<If this coral has bleached it will need very clean water and extra feeding
while it adjusts to the new light and regrows symbionts. Feeding small pieces of
squid, fish, or shrimp when the tentacles are out will keep this coral alive
until the algae return. Benjamin>
Help with an Open Brain, allelopathy
likely 6/18/08
Hello WWM Crew!
<Mike>
I have a 14G Oceanic Bio-Cube. It's been an amazing tank, and I have
been fortunate enough to have had minimal problems with it. In fact, it's
been a dream tank for the most part. In the tank:
1 Clownfish
1 6 Line Wrasse
<... needs more room than this>
1 Cleaner Shrimp
Hermits
2 Cerith Snails
3 margarita snails
Some Green Mushrooms
Purple Mushrooms
Pipe Organ Coral
Leather Coral
<... ditto>
Open Brain Coral
<... the loser here>
(I'm upgrading to a new 34 gallon Solana Aquarium in July with MH
lights!
http://www.current-usa.com/solana.html )
<Oh! Much better!>
My tank seemed to take a turn for the worse in the spring. It's been
perfect for years and then something just seemed to happen. My frogspawn
started splitting, which was amazing to watch.
<But due to what prompting? Stress?>
until pieces started rotting and falling off.
<Ah, yes>
I tried hard to save it, but no avail. My Pipe Organ coral also started
to have some problems (and from what I hear that is a good indication of
poor water quality).
<Mmm, can be... in this case, allelopathy>
So I increased my water changes, and made sure to diligently test the
water.
<Good moves>
Small changes, multiple times a week and a 30% water change at the end
of every month. Readings have been perfect. When things didn't get better I
took samples to my LFS, hoping they would find something, and they have
confirmed near perfect water quality. Only one thing out of whack, I do have
high calcium. around 500 but they said it wasn't harmful. Is that true?
<Likely so... as long as you have adequate alkalinity, magnesium...>
The Pipe Organ is doing better, the Mushrooms, Leather Coral, and
various frags are doing amazing (but they are hearty to begin with). My
problem, is with my beautiful open brain coral (image attached).
<I see>
I read through the forums and have some ideas to implement. The image I
have attached shows something I haven't been able to find on your site. in
the middle of the brain coral, between the mouth and the mantle, there are 4
pieces of skeleton that are black in color. What is that!?
<Algal et al. opportunistic growth on damaged, dying tissue living on
septal teeth>
As you can see, the open brain is slowly receding, making parts of the
skeleton around the circumference visible. I read on the forums that in this
state, the brains won't be able to survive on photosynthesis and normal
feeding (I feed the system with a Phytoplankton twice a week), <... most
everything here doesn't eat such>
so now whenever the mouth is open I target feed it. It seems to react
positively.
The mouth eventually closes, and the coral puffs up. And when I say
puffs up I mean puffs up. It inflates like a balloon. And then next day it
seems to recede a bit more (or so it appears). When it puffs up the black
pieces are not visible. It was recommended to me that I add a Strontium
supplement into my routine, but it doesn't seem to be doing much. I also
supplement with Iodine once a week for the shrimp.
<Good>
You will also see some algae growing on the exposed skeleton. I read
something about Boring Green Algae or something like that, but it didn't
seem to fit. Thoughts?
<... secondary>
To complicate the matters, my Clownfish , even with a nice big frogspawn
and leather coral, has hosted in the brain coral (and has for years). They
seem to be fine with one another. In this state though, I'm afraid he is
hindering the healing of the brain. At times he can be found, "splashing and
rolling around in it" . He gets very aggressive to others that come near it,
flipping over snails and such. I think he may have ushered a few of them
into the brain while trying to get them away. Perhaps that started the
downward spiral?
<Possibly>
So, there it is. The only other thing I can think of that has changed is
that I had to purchase a new type of salt. I have religiously used Instant
Ocean, but recently had to switch to KENT (which is apparently supposed to
be better for corals). Would that have made a difference? As for suggested
ways to fix it, I have been given the following advice so far:
<I'd switch back>
1) Someone suggested that I put a cube of shrimp or worms in the center
and then cover the brain with a clear glass cup. Seems strange to me, but
your thoughts?
<Nah>
2) Someone also suggested I try scraping off any algae on the skeleton,
and scrape the dark stuff away. but I'm worried that will do more harm than
good.
<Correct>
3) Freshwater Dip - but then I heard that it would just rupture the
cells that are left
<Nope>
4) Quarantine it
<Moving it period is the route to go>
What would you recommend and not recommend? At my wit's end here, any
help would be appreciated.
wit
Thanks again for all your help. You have a tremendous site, and a great
group of talented people. Don't know what we would do without you!
Thanks,
Mike
<Hurry along that new tank and read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
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Help with my Brain…(he means the one in his
tank) 4/1/08
Hello!
<<What’s up Rob?>>
I have a 65 gallon (love this size!) tank with a built in overflow. The overflow
has a 1" drain and a 3/4" return. (MegaFlow my a$#) They both are used as
drains, the 3/4" goes to my refugium. It is a 30 gallon rubber tub with 4" live
sand and Chaeto that completely fills it! The 1 1/2" bulkhead drains from this
refugium into a ten or so gallon area that houses a diy skimmer (very pleased
with it!), heaters and carbon. This area also receives the water from the 1"
overflow on the main tank. Water is then run back to the tank via a "little
giant mdc-x" I believe. It is rated 1100 per hour. Water is run into a 1" PVC
closed loop with four 1/2" outputs that were heated and squeezed at the ends.
<<Sounds like a well thought out and planned closed system.>>
Main tank; 1/2" to an inch of crushed coral
104#s of live rock
No fish,
<<An interesting and admirable approach I might add.>>
three fingers, a green toadstool, a red and teal open brain and a couple
mushrooms. All up and running for over a year. The tank is lit by two 175 watt
bulbs, one 10k and the other 20k. The refugium is on reverse light cycle and is
lit by two 65 watt 12k PC's.
Water;
nitrite and ammonia-0
nitrate-0-.5
pH-8.2
Alk- 13dkh
calcium-ran out of the tests.. oops was around 450
temp fluctuates between 77 and 80
<<Temp fluctuates a little too much for my tastes but otherwise sounds very
good.>>
I have no algae problems and everything is quite stable. I prefer light
stocking, although I want to add more a little at a time.
Okay, several questions! My open brain has bad tissue loss, it has reached one
of its mouths! I admit, I have been on the road a lot lately and have neglected
my duty a bit. There were probably times where it was fed only once a week,
maybe less! I know. its not fair to the animals! It still eats, in fact I am
still able to feed the mouth that is reduced to half its former glory. I am
feeding fresh gulf shrimp and clam. I will feed it as often as it will eat until
it hopefully recovers. It gets light only from the 20k bulb, shaded from the
10k. I cant imagine this is too much light, the tank is two feet deep and it
doesn't expand to the point that makes me think its reaching for light. It gets
just enough current to gently move the flesh now and again. I am adding iodide
daily. Should I increase flow, lighting...anything?
<<Honestly it sounds like you are on the right track, I wouldn’t change much if
anything….just be as consistent you can.>>>
My water seems fine, I am back to weekly 5 to ten gallon water changes. I use
instant ocean aged for at least two or three days. Only R.O. water is
used for mixing salt and my top off unit. The top off water is buffered before
use.
Another question! I have not noticed much growth in my coral over the past year.
I feed my refugium weekly with some flakes or scraps from the food cuttings for
the brain. It is full of little white stars and Amphi/cope pods! I have baby
snails (Margarita) coming out of my...and there is good Coralline growth. Is
there a need to house a small fish or two for nutrients or something?
<<A need to? No…would it hurt, I don’t think so…as long as you made the right
choice. It does sound as if your cnidarians could be a little nutrient deprived
though, a little extra feeding would certainly not hurt.>>
Other than the feeding the fuge and the brain, I add no other foods.
<<Google, Eric H. Borneman coral feeding re: this.>>
I do not get it! I have noticed that when I turn my Chaeto over and the tank
clouds up a little, that the little hard tubes on my live rock shoot out what
look to be old dusty spider webs. It makes me want to stick a feather duster in
there and clean it out! I think I know the answer, but just to be safe, could
these little guys irritate my coral?
<<No, harmless.>>
I really appreciate your role in this hobby, you are all a great source of help!
<<You are on the right track, keep going…good luck.>>
Thank you!
Rob
<<Adam J.>>
Brain Coral Damage,
supplement use 3/3/08
Hello,
<Greg>
I recently made the mistake of adding some powdered pH buffer (Sea Buffer by
Aquarium Systems) directly to my tank.
<Such supplements should be added to and through water change water...
dissolved...>
Found out the open brain coral did not like this at all.? It began secreting a
lot of clear mucous.? I think some of the powder probably touched the coral
before dissolving.? I removed as much slime as possible and waited to see if the
coral recovered.? The slime production stopped and the coral re-opened.?
However, after a week or so I noticed a small part of the coral was not opening
fully.? There is a small (< 1/4") area that has developed a whitish patch with
something sloughing off.? Coral continues to open daily (except for damaged
area) and everything else appears normal.? I am thinking some type of infection
has taken hold in this area.? Is this coral toast from the pH buffer contact or
is there some chance the tissue will heal??
<The latter... with good care, time...>
Anything I can do to help the tissue heal?? Lastly, how and when will I know if
this is a no win situation and I need to removal the coral before polluting the
tank.
Thanks,
Greg
<Iodine/ate, improved feeding... See WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Open Brain Coral... ID,
hlth... 2/25/08
Greetings WWM,
<<G'Morning. Andrew today>>
I have acquired and open brain coral, I stuck him on the bottom of the tank in
the substrate and he was all closed up and now he has puffed up like a balloon
is this normal? My water perimeters are great any suggestions? Thanks from
Colorado
<<Species of coral? Would always prefer to know you exact water parameters.
<<Sometimes, yes this is normal for an open brain to bloat up as its creating
more surface area for feeding. Maybe provide a photograph to enable us to better
look at the coral>>
<<Hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Return Pump Flow--How Much Is Too Much? – 02/18/08
Greetings WWM Crew,
<<Hello Bill>>
Here is my situation. I have an AGA 180-gallon RR tank with the 'MegaFlow'
system--sort of.
<<Mmm…>>
The ¾-inch return is now 1-inch, and the drains are 1 ¼-inch instead of 1-inch.
The 'MegaFlows' have been replaced with Durso's.
<<I see… I do hope this means you increased the size of the holes/bulkheads in
the tank…not just an upsizing of the pipe>>
I drilled out the 'teeth' in the overflows and siliconed black plastic gutter
guard in its place. My tank has an Ocean-Motions 4 way Closed-loop plumbed
according to Paul's suggestion. This all drains in to an 85-gallon 'fuge,
<<Sweet>>
and then to a 90-gallon sump.
<<Really sweet>>
My skimmer is in the sump. The return I was using was a Mag 1800, and up until
last Tuesday it worked fine--then BAMM.
<<Hate it when that happens… I have used these and do think the Mag-Drive pumps
usually serve pretty well, for the money…but I made the “switch” to Ocean-Runner
a while back and have been very pleased with the result…and when/if you can get
them big enough, Eheim is even better>>
A friend of mine that owns/runs an LFS said he had a 'new' (used for 5 minutes)
pump he would sell me, so OK, I'm good to go right. The pump is an Eco-Plus
rated at 4950gph.
<<Yikes! Much too much flow for your overflows…or are we talking “closed-loop”
here?>>
New plumbing was done--ball valve etc., etc., and I turned the pump on--(now
don't get ahead of me, I know what you are thinking--but the ball valve WAS
turned to 1/2 to start)
<<Mmm…okay…>>
Oh, I forgot--I installed a "Calfo Manifold" around the top of the tank in 1
inch PVC in place of the double returns already in use.
<<Very nice>>
I'm figuring my flow at about 3800 to 4000 gph--just from the return.
<<Not with “two 1 ¼-inch drain bulkheads” my friend (would only safely drain
about 1000gph en toto). I must assume this is a closed-loop>>
With the 1-inch return manifold--it has 12 outlets around the top—I can turn the
valve to 3/4 open with no problem. With ½-inch reducers in the outlets, and with
capped 45 degree pieces drilled with a small hole attached, I can open the valve
all the way, without overflowing the tank.
<<Okay, this “must” be a true closed-loop then…no way you would be running this
much water through your sump/through two 1 ¼-inch gravity drain lines>>
I also have 2 Koralia #4--1200gph each in the rear corners. My 'buddy' at the
LFS says it can never be enough flow. Is this too much flow ?????
Thanks in advance,
Bill Fletcher
<<Well Bill, that depends much on your livestock’s requirements/placement and
how this flow is “arranged” in the tank. A common rule-of-thumb for marine
systems is to have a water-flow rate of at least ten-times the tank’s stated
volume. For your tank of course that would be 1800gph. I have heard of some
hobbyists with flow rates of 50-times and more their tank’s volume. I believe
“lots of flow” is very beneficial if applied properly…my own tank boasts more
than 30-times the tank volume in water flow. I also believe the majority of
hobbyists “don’t have enough” flow in their tanks. So to answer your question…if
the animals in your system are not having their flesh blasted from them…if the
animals in your system exhibit health and vigor, and the corals are not
“closed-up” all the time as a result of the flow…then no, this is not too much
flow. Regards, Eric Russell>>
Re: Return Pump Flow--How
Much Is Too Much? - 02/19/08
THANKS for the reply Eric.
<<Happy to assist, Bill>>
To start, the pump in question IS the tank return pump. On my OM 4 way, I have a
DART.
<<Ah, thank you for the clarification. I must say I think either there is
something I have missed, or the pump is encountering a “bunch” of headloss as
there is no way two 1¼” gravity drains handling the flow volume you mention
(4,000gph+)>>
Each return has 6 one inch "T"s around the top of the tank, into which a 1" to
1/2 " reducer is placed, with a 45 degree PVC piece placed into that, and then
capped and drilled with a small, not real small, hole drilled in the end.
<<So…the water is returned to the tank via these small holes in the caps? Well,
that would explain how the drains can handle the flow with the valve from the
pump wide-open (the “holes” are GREATLY restricting water flow)>>
This allows me to swivel the 45's left or right, and raise or lower the "T"s as
needed. The drain and return tank bulkheads were re-drilled to accommodate the
tubing upgrades.
<<Excellent…too bad you just didn’t go a little larger on the drains [grin]>>
I did forget to add/state that ALL plumbing is in the basement which is just
behind the wall that the tank sits in front of.
<<Cool…does make plumbing/dealing with some associated hassles a bit easier>>
As of now, everybody--all the animals in the tank--- appear to be doing very
well--I did tweak the 'nozzles' initially so as not to blast anybody--so all is
well.
<<Very good>>
THANKS again for ALL you do for us in the hobby--where would we be without your
help and knowledge.
Bill
<<Rewarding and encouraging to read…We are pleased to be of service. EricR>>
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Open Brain Coral Question,
overly lit hlth. ish 2-18-06
Hey sorry to bother you.
<No worries>
I've just recently picked up a 250w MH ballast and XM 10000k bulb for my 75g
tank.
<A little bright there - shallow water 'sps'?>
I now have a few open brains.. one of them seems to be "droopy" like.
<Guess not - your lighting is excessive for 'LPS' corals, I would seriously
consider downgrading. Regardless of popular opinion, throwing high wattage
halides over everything is simply not necessary, with the exception of a few
species of course>
It is a metallic green open brain. It expands during the day and opens up at
night to feed...but when it expands during the day it seems really thinned out
and the on side of it seems to hang down (left side in photo). Could this be a
light problem?
<Sure - especially if it wasn't doing this before the upgrade, and all water
parameters are nominal>
Water is great I test almost everything except iodine.
<Numbers are usually requested, but okay>
I think I bought it from underneath a few T5's. I had brought it home and sat it
in the substrate off to the side for about a week before moving it more towards
the center. Could I have moved it into intense light too fast?
<Yes, and yes, and it may never acclimate to the brighter lighting, or if it
does, it may not open as far as it did>
I fed it for the first time after 2 weeks of having it. Could this be a hunger
thing?
<Possibly, but not as likely, though you should have fed it sooner. I recommend
feeding more often - twice a week should suffice>
I bought some shrimp, successfully fed it and haven't noticed any change in
appearance.
Everything else in my tank is doing great. Could you shoot me any advice? Like
moving it to a new location, or is this coral dying on me?
<From the picture, I'd say nothing is wrong with the coral - but you are going
to know better than I am, as you see it every day. I'd say if anything, the
lighting is too intense>
Also it is in not heavy but moderate water flow. Could this be a problem?
<Doubtfully>
Thanks a lot guys.
<Sure thing - when emailing us in the future, please make sure to use correct
spelling, capitalization, and punctuation>
Jason
<M. Maddox>
Open Brain Coral Question
Part Deuce 2-19-06
Good morning.
<For those of us without chem lab, yep ;)>
Thank you for the quick response.
<Sure>
You say I should downgrade my light set-up? I cannot do that, but I was
wondering...is there any way I could block some of the light intensity by using
typical black screen in between it and the water? Would this work or is it a
long shot?
<It would work fine - window screens work wonders in this situation. However,
unless you're keeping animals that require that much light, why not sell/return
your lights and get a 175w setup, or T5's? Cheaper, less electricity/heat, etc>
I really have no way to move and mount the light anywhere else. It is where it
is.
Another thing, what if I were to buy a 15000k or 20000k bulb instead ( I hate
the colour of my 10000k neways )? Probably wont make any difference will it?
<It will, actually - the farther you move from the ~5500-6500k range the less
photoactive radiation (PAR) there is going to be, and wavelength intensity
decreases as well, if I remember correctly>
Any overall suggestions on killing off some of the intensity from the light?
<See above>
Jason
<M. Maddox> |
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