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FAQs About Goldfish Disease/Health 58

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FAQs on Goldfish Medicines Antifungals, Antibacterials, Anti-protozoals ( Copper, eSHa, Metronidazole, Formalin, Copper, Malachite Green), Dewormers, Organophosphates, Salts, Mela- et al. non-fixes, Misc. Med.s,

Goldfish Disease by "Types", Causes:
Environmental 1, Environmental 2, Environmental 3, Environmental 4, Environmental 5, Environmental , (Absolutely the Biggest Category)
Floaty Bloaty Goldfish
Nutritional (Second Largest)
Eye Troubles
Lumps/Bumps/Growths (including idiopathic tumors)
Viral and Bacterial, Fungal Infectious
Parasitic: (Ich, Protozoans, Flukes, Worms, Crustacean/ Anchorworms/Lernaeids, ) Fish Lice (Argulus),
Goldfish Swim Bladder Problems
Anomalous (Misc., Injuries, etc.)

Re: Black Moor Goldfish with white patches. Now Pearlscale concerns      1/31/18
Hello again!
<Hi Melissa>
Thank you for your quick response.
Unfortunately the moor took a turn for the worse two days ago, and I suspect recovery is unlikely (right now she's laying on her side, poor girl). She's been moved to a quarantine tank because one of the other fish was nipping at her sides (and its this bully fish that I'm now concerned about).
<Ahh, I see>
I've been consistently removing 20% of the tank water every two days, and the levels still look good with low levels of nitrate (under 5 ppm) and no ammonia or nitrite.
I'm a bit concerned because the other fish (a Pearlscale) has a scale that's hanging off, which I imagine will fall off. This particular scale doesn't have a pearl on it, and doesn't look red or inflamed. A week ago this fish and another fish (both are Pearlscales) had very small red marks on one of their scales, the marks healed up within two days on each of them so I suspected it was damage (they are both clumsy swimmers and will bump into pieces of driftwood in the aquarium). I know scale loss can be a sign of infection, or could be tied to chemical burns.
<... Now I'm getting concerned. You haven't added something... like decor here in the last few weeks have you? I might jump ahead to using some chemical filtration (ChemiPure, PolyFilter) to remove potential/real toxins here>
Normally I wouldn't be quite so concerned with this, but with what happened to the black moor, I'm worried there's some issue with my tank that I'm not considering.
Thanks again for any help you can provide!
<The amount of time it might take to go over most possibilities, the lack of diagnostic tools... at times is disconcerting. Bob Fenner>

Re: Black Moor Goldfish with white patches     1/31/18
Hello again Bob,
I'll look into ordering some ChemiPure later today (the selection for aquarium supplies locally is dismal)
The fish only moved into the 55 gallon about three weeks ago (the Pearlscales are both new additions and had been quarantined in a bare-bottom twenty gallon previously, while the black moor and an Oranda were in a 35 gallon). The decor in the tank is just terracotta pots, driftwood, and then plants.
<I'd remove the driftwood for now>
The Pearlscale in question is a very pushy fish who tends to bump into the decor a lot.
I'll also try to get a picture of the loose scale when I get home later today.
As a precaution, I'm also going to start storing water ahead of use- do you think storing for 24 hours be long enough?
<The longer the better; a week or more is ideal... the -amine sanitizer (as opposed to the days of gaseous chlorine) takes about this long to dissipate; and more goes on....>
Thanks again for your help!
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Black Moor Goldfish with white patches     1/31/18

Sorry for sending an email so quickly after the last, but my sister decided to investigate what our municipality treated the tap water with.
It turns out that nitrite/nitrate are both added (grouped together), plus chlorine and chloramine all of which I suspected were added, and I know prime dechlorinator would detoxify.
<Yes to all>
What concerns me greatly is the addition of lead and zinc to the water.
<Not (likely) added, but present in low concentrations>
I now fear that heavy metal toxicity could be part of what caused the black moor's condition (she was in this area when she first developed fin rot and when the burns/slime-coat issues started).
<Perhaps a contributor; but not likely a great one>
Previously, another one of the three rescued fish (the sick black moor and a still healthy Oranda were the other two) was acting lethargic and then died suddenly while the tank parameters were perfect; at the time I suspected it was her age and the chronic exposure to high nitrates in her previous aquarium, now I'm thinking it could have been tied to the heavy metals in the water.
Would ChemiPure remove heavy metals from the water?
<Yes; as will/would the PolyFilter product>
Or is there something else I should add to remove them?
<Mmm; there are water conditioners, resins/filtrants that will precipitate these, other metals (e.g. SeaChem's Cuprisorb)>
If it isn't possible, I can move the fish back to my mother's home (where lead and zinc are not added to the water) although I would miss having them with me during most of the year I want what's best for them.
Thanks again!
<Welcome. B>
Re: Black Moor Goldfish with white patches     1/31/18

Hi again,
I just ordered some ChemiPure which should arrive on Thursday (I'm obviously excited to try it out)
These are the pictures of the scale that's about to fall off on the Pearlscale (sorry about the quality, the grainy green spots are algae on the glass that I really need to scrub off) he didn't want to stop and pose for a picture .
<Again; due to a physical trauma... the driftwood?>
Upon further inspection, it looks like a translucent covering, I'm not sure if that's normally how scales look when they fall off.
Thanks again Bob (and for dealing with all my messages today!)
<Welcome Mel.>

Re: Black Moor Goldfish with white patches. Pearlscale        2/2/18
So an update on the Pearlscale, I'm a bit concerned because it looks like there are clear (maybe fluid filled) rings/'bags' around his eyes.
<Mmm; there are such rings with fluid; natural>
(Sorry, my pictures don't quite capture it)
My tank parameters are still 0 ammonia and nitrite, and less than 5 ppm nitrate.
My first thought is that this is pop-eye,
<Nah, this isn't exophthalmia>
and that I should quarantine him and begin treatment (the other Pearlscale has now begun to nip at him, but the little guy is pretty good at out-running him).
What would you recommend?
<No treatment period>
Thanks again for all your help!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: .... Pearlscale       2/3/18
Hi Bob,
<Ms. P>
The fluid filled bags, which I think may be actually be fluid in his eye/lens (it's somewhat difficult to tell as he's only a little bit larger than 3 inches) only appeared on Tuesday (they were so small I hadn't noticed at the time and only realized it when I was looking back at pictures) and since then have grown. In particular, the bubble looks a bit
larger on his left eye than on his right and is concentrated underneath his eye.
<I can't make this out in your image>
If this is a natural reaction, do you have any idea about what could have caused it to start so suddenly?
<Unilateral... a physical trauma likely>
Also, do you think it will resolve on its own with clean water?
Thanks again, Bob.
<W. B>

Black Moor Goldfish with white patches     1/27/18
I've been scouring the internet for the last two days to try and figure out what my black moor is afflicted with.
The aquarium levels (taken with an API liquid master test kit this morning) are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and <5 ppm nitrate.
My tank setup is as follows: four goldfish in a 55 gallon, two Fluval 206 canister filters, two air-bars/one sponge filter. The fish are fed Repashy's Soilent green gel food, and shelled peas.
For some background on the black moor in question, she's about 8 years old, but for most of that time she was kept in pretty bad conditions (she had been my mom's fish, but she didn't clean the tank often, and with three
fish in a 35 gallon it was crowded) as a result I believe she has chronic issues getting oxygen (she gasps at the surface, especially whenever prime has been added during a water change).
This fish has been battling Finrot on and off for the last few months (she had a bad outbreak back in November, which calmed down only to resurge in late December with more fin tissue rotting away), but her fins haven't
gotten any worse since then (at the time I started feeding her garlic-soaked food, but have now stopped)
I'm a college student and the fish move back and forth twice a year from my apartment to my parents' home (which is only a 3 hour drive). When I was moving the fish into the 55 gallon in my apartment, I noticed a substantial die-off of algae had occurred in the tank (which I had been trying to achieve by lowering the amount of light in the tank) I always leave the tank running with a sponge filter and air bars when the fish aren't in it.
I didn't think much of it, changed out 75% of the water, set up the canisters, and then added the fish. Three days later I detected ammonia in the tank and promptly dosed the entire tank with prime and Seachem stability. I also started doing 25% water changes every other day.
The last time I detected about 0.25 ppm of Ammonia in the tank was a week ago. (Since then I've only detected low levels of nitrate)
<I see>
What I'm concerned about are the white patches that have formed over her scales mostly on one of her sides, some of them look a bit fuzzy in areas, I've attached two pictures of the patches. I'm very concerned because the
white has spread since yesterday.
Her energy and appetite are very good, she likes to swim around the 'mid-level' of the tank, which is where she has been hanging out. If this white wasn't on her, I wouldn't think that anything was wrong.
The first picture was from last night, and the other two are from this morning to show how much it has spread.
The other three fish are all doing fine and I don't see any white patches on them (they are all mostly orange).
I'm not sure what's causing this (ammonia burns, bacterial or fungal infection, slime-coat, etc.) Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for you help and I hope you have a great day!
<Have encountered this set of conditions and expression many times with fancy goldfishes. I do think this is principally an "ammonia burn" (or related) as you speculate, and not pathogenic; and would continue with your checking water quality, foods use; and not treat the tank with a medication. Bob Fenner>

You think it might be swim bladder disease?      12/27/17
Hello. I have a 765 gallon pond with 10 adult goldfish and 5 tiny fry in it. I am trying to determine if one of my fish has a swim bladder disease problem.
<I'm a skeptic with regard to "swim bladder disease". Let's be clear, it's a symptom, and not a specific disease. It's not like a healthy fish is swimming about one day, gets infected with some type of bacteria, and that bacteria zips its way straight to the swim bladder, puffing it up and causing the fish to die! When most aquarists mention "swim bladder disease" what they mean is "my fish was fine before, but now it's swollen and swimming upside-down" -- a much different thing! Assuming the fish was healthy before, there's two main reasons for fish being both swollen and swimming upside-down. The first is constipation. Let me direct you to some reading here:
This is rare in pond fish because these fish consume green foods and algae naturally, keeping their digestive tracts in good health. The second cause is a systemic bacteria infection, of the sort often called Dropsy.
Crucially, as well as looking bloated, the scales on the fish will tend become raised from body, causing a "pine-cone" appearance when viewed from above. Fish with Dropsy will often also be lethargic and off their food,
whereas fish with constipation will be swimming about normally and eating normally. Systemic bacterial infections are usually caused by some sort of environmental stress, such as poor water quality or chilling, though I suppose it's possible bad luck or bad genes can play a role too. Fancy Goldfish in particular are sensitive to water temperatures much below 15 C/59 F.>
The fish is a white Oranda. It has always stood on its head when feeding.
Here is a photo of the fish doing that. Sorry about the fuzzy quality. Here is another photo of the same fish swimming normally just the other day. She was feeding normally when I was feeding during the fall. But today my
father found her swimming upside down. She righted herself and swam away alright. But I am wondering, if it is swim bladder disease, should I take it out of the pond? Or should I let it continue to live in the pond where it has more room to swim and companions?
<Systemic bacterial infections are best treated indoors in a tank, using some sort of antibiotic. While Goldfish are social, they're fine on their own for a few weeks. This time of year be careful about moving fish between
ponds and tanks -- sudden temperature changes of more than a couple of degrees will be stressful, so you really want to fill the tank with pond water, set it up somewhere cool like a garage, and then put the Goldfish in so that any temperature changes are slight and gradual. As always, remember water quality in the hospital tank needs to be good, and remove carbon from the filter (if you use carbon) while medicating.>
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: You think it might be swim bladder disease?      12/28/17
Thank you Neal. This is not my first time with swim bladder issues in my fish. I had one with genetic swim bladder disease years ago. She was fine, no dropsy, swam and ate normally. But when she would rest she would always turn upside down and float. She would right herself to eat and swim. But it was definitely not constipation.
<Genetic problems with swim bladders are very common in 'fancy' (i.e., inbred) varieties of fish. We sometimes call these fish "belly sliders" when they're newly hatched because they slide about the bottom of the tank on their bellies, rather than swimming normally like healthy fish fry. Ethical breeders will usually (humanely) destroy such fish, eliminating the faulty genes responsible from the gene pool, so that fewer fish in subsequent have the problem. Of course such fish can make perfectly serviceable pets, as yours seems to have done, but because these fish can't swim, feed, and interact socially in the normal ways, their long term wellbeing isn't assured.>
The disease eventually caused her to stop eating and she passed away. But she was a great and beautiful fancy goldfish while I had her. But I am wondering if my white Oranda might be developing it. It has always kind of stood on its head when feeding actively at the bottom of the pond. Do you think this head-standing is the start of a swim bladder disease problem?
<Possibly. As I say, genetic problems are usually obvious from birth. It's rather uncommon for genetics to explain how a fish can mature across, say, twelve months and go from being a perfectly healthy baby Goldfish into one that cannot swim at all. Of course it's not impossible, especially if some additional factor, such as vitamin deficiency or exposure to Mycobacteria are brought into the equation. Still, because fancy Goldfish have deformed swim bladders and spines, they are especially prone to swimming imbalances, not least of all when constipated (the solid mass of food shifts their centre of mass, so that they no longer balance as they should). That's why, by default, a 'floaty, Bloaty' Goldfish can be assumed to be constipated first, unless other obvious symptoms, such as bleeding sores on the skin and/or fins, imply something other than constipation.>
I can’t feed the afflicted fish right now and have not fed my fish in two weeks because the pond is in winter mode now and I am not supposed to feed them in winter.
<Quite right; hence, bringing Goldfish indoors for any treatment that requires feeding. I will observe that as a general rule fancy Goldfish are not well suited to overwintering outdoors where the water drops much below, say, 15 C/59 F, and I'd argue they're indoor fish unless you happen to live somewhere that winters happen to be mild (southern California, for example). Here in the UK, where ponds do ice over, it's generally considered safe enough leaving the hardy fancy varieties (such as Fantails) outside, but the more delicate varieties (like Pearlscales) are meant to be brought indoors for winter. Exposure to low temperatures causes a number of problems for fancy varieties of Goldfish, including a tendency towards bacterial infections once their immune systems become suppressed. Also, because fancy Goldfish have those deformed digestive tracts, if the gut hasn't been completely cleared out by the time it gets really wintery, there's a greater risk of undigested food 'sitting there' and causing problems when they're compared to their non-fancy cousins.>
So I don’t really think it is likely constipation related. And it’s definitely not dropsy related. Only conclusion I can make is that if it is swim bladder problems it might be genetic like my previous fish with swim bladder problems.
<As I say, possible, but if your Goldfish is 'floaty, Bloaty' completely out of the blue, I'd be thinking more about environment than genes.>
I just need some expert advice as I am not an expert.
<Let's see what Bob F has to say, he's the real fancy Goldfish guy around here!>
Thank you so much for your help.
<Most welcome. Neale.>

Trying to treat my fish with the genetic swim bladder problem      1/6/18
I am preparing to treat my white Oranda for a genetic swim bladder problem.
I will be treating it outdoors as I have no room to treat indoors. And I live in a warm desert climate so temperature wise it should be ok. But I will not be feeding it at all because it is outside and it is currently winter. I was looking at using a method that involves 4 teaspoons of non-iodized salt and 2 teaspoons of Stress Coat.
<...? For how many gallons?>

But it also suggests using aged water. Should I put the recommended amount of Stress Coat in to make the water safe for the fish and the 2 teaspoons of Stress Coat?
<I would, but I'd use a good part (at least half) of the old pond water.
What is this treatment being done in? A tank? Of what size, how kept filtered, aerated, stable?>
And how long should I administer this treatment for? Should I keep it in the treatment tank for a few minutes or will it take longer than that to treat my fish?
<Will likely have to stay in for weeks>
Thank you.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Trying to treat my fish with the genetic swim bladder problem (RMF, am I being unfair here?)<<IMO, no>>      1/6/18

I am preparing to treat my white Oranda for a genetic swim bladder problem.
<Can't recall how we concluded this was genetic, to be honest!>
I will be treating it outdoors as I have no room to treat indoors. And I live in a warm desert climate so temperature wise it should be ok. But I will not be feeding it at all because it is outside and it is currently winter. I was looking at using a method that involves 4 teaspoons of non-iodized salt
<Won't work. This is just sodium chloride. Could the writer of this offer any explanation at all about why it would help? Magnesium sulphate, on the other hand, known as Epsom Salt, can help with constipation and bloating, and to some degree, Dropsy too.>
and 2 teaspoons of Stress Coat.
<Again, no real reason how/why this will work. Stress Coat is great for use when transporting fish, or if they've been damaged in a fight. But it's really just water conditioner plus aloe Vera. About as much use for treating a swim bladder problem as wishful thinking, and the latter is a lot cheaper.>
But it also suggests using aged water.
<Why? Aged water is from the Palaeozoic Era of fishkeeping -- when people thought aquarium water magically became better for fish life as time passed. This made some sort of sense in the 1950s and 60s when people
didn't completely understand water chemistry, and didn't really have practical ways to check it. So doing small, infrequent water changes made sure the fish weren't exposed to big water chemistry changes. But nowadays
we appreciate that old water can be toxic because of the high levels of nitrate, so regular water changes are important to keep the tank (or even a pond) nice and fresh. To be clear, there's no medical reason why dechlorinated tap water with the same water chemistry and temperature as your pond should be any worse than the old water in the pond. In fact, it's likely to be better.>
Should I put the recommended amount of Stress Coat in to make the water safe for the fish and the 2 teaspoons of Stress Coat? And how long should I administer this treatment for? Should I keep it in the treatment tank for a
few minutes or will it take longer than that to treat my fish? Thank you.
<Don't see any point to what you propose, to be honest. So I'd do some more reading first. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Trying to treat my fish with the genetic swim bladder problem      1/6/18

The treatment is being done in a 3 gallon bucket
<... this won't work. PLEASE read WWM re goldfish care. NONE can live for days in such small volumes. B>
if my family who shares my house with me has anything to say about it.
Could I give it a bath there then release it back into the pond? How long would I have to leave it in the bucket for? And Neal recommended Epsom salt instead. How much do I use per gallon of water if I use Epsom salt?
Reply to previous email about fish with genetic swim bladder problem... Bath       1/6/18

I found this online regarding Epsom salt baths.
To give your fish an Epsom salt bath, pour half of the tank's water into a clean container. Add 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt for every 1 gallon of water. Have the fish swim in the solution for 15 to 30 minutes. Remove the fish promptly and return him to his aquarium if he appears stressed or relieves himself.
Would this Epsom salt bath be helpful to a goldfish with genetic swim bladder problems? Thank you.
<MgSO4 will not do anything of value here; no.
Re: Reply to previous email about fish with genetic swim bladder       1/6/18

Thank you Bob.
<W. C.>
Re: Trying to treat my fish with the genetic swim bladder problem       1/6/18

Thank you Neal. How much Epsom salt should I use per gallon of water?
<A tablespoon per 5 gallons is the usual recommended amount. I would recommend doing a big water change afterwards though -- while Epsom salt is safe for a few weeks, you don't really want it sitting in the pond indefinitely. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Trying to treat my fish with the genetic swim bladder problem       1/6/18

Thank you Neal.
<You're welcome. Neale.>
Me again on the Oranda with swim bladder problem      1/6/18

I tried an Epsom salt bath before you replied to me before. It could be just wishful thinking but he is swimming upright a little more than he has been recently. Or so I think... But he is still doing his headstands.
Should I try to continue the Epsom salt baths?
<Definitely worth a shot. If you can extend the baths for a few hours in a large bucket or even a Rubbermaid container holding a couple gallons, that's fine! Repeat daily for a couple weeks and see what happens.>
Some sites suggest that if nothing else helps to euthanize the fish.
<Epsom salt? Not really toxic. A good euthanising method is quick and painless. Epsom salt would have to be used in a massive concentration such that'd it'd kill the fish by osmosis, effectively like putting salt on a slug. Hardly humane.>
I have looked into everything I could hoping it was not a genetic problem but I fear it is. Should I euthanize the fish?
<If the fish is swimming and feeding normally, I would not; I prefer to euthanise fish only when they have no chance of recovery and their quality of life is low (e.g., they can't feed any more).>
Thank you.
<Welcome, Neale.>

When to euthanize goldfish     9/20/17
My blue Oranda Zeus is very sick with hemorrhagic septicemia. He has petechiae on his throat and belly along with necrotic flesh sloughing about his mouth, head, and lower gill area. I am treating with Kanaplex and salt.
He is not eating and is bottom sitting. I bought clove oil today but every time I put my hand in to scoop him up he perks up and scoots around. I guess my question is this...in your experience, have you ever seen or heard of a fish this ill recovering?
<Yes; I have; in several cases>
Does necrotic flesh ever grow back?
<Yes... for fins, if the basal area is not completely eroded. On the body, emarginated tissue can regenerate completely>
It's even to the point of flowing in and out of his mouth (the dead flesh). I suppose this is happening internally as well. I am suspecting Columnaris.
<? The Kanaplex should treat this>
He is alone in a 30 gallon bare bottom tank that got cloudy a few weeks ago due to over feeding and lax HOB filter maintenance, followed by a hydra outbreak which was treated with "No Planaria". He went downhill from
there. Current water parameters are fine...0 ammonia...0 nitrate...nitrate not tested...pH 7.4....temp 72. Should I try and do more or euthanize?
<I am not a fan of "giving up" at all easily. I would continue with investigation (reading, books and the Net) and treatment here. Bob Fenner>

Pearlscale with dropsy?  9/4/17
To start, my aquarium parameters are 0 nitrate, and 0 nitrite (I'm not sure about ammonia, since I've been dosing with prime I know that can change results/ give false positives) I detected a presence of ammonia a week ago (0.25 ppm) , which alerted me that my cycle had crashed.
<I see>
For reference, this is a 55 gallon I just set up a few weeks ago with four goldfish; however, both canister filters were moved from previous aquariums the fish lived in (which led me to incorrectly believe my cycle would be fine in the upgraded aquarium).
<Should have been... if the canisters didn't "go anaerobic", and water conditions were similar>
Since detecting the ammonia I'm now doing 45% water changes every two days (before that I was doing water changes biweekly).
My Pearlscale has what I assume are ammonia burns (red areas, which later started to turn black); however, in the last two days she has lost two scales and the red areas are spreading. (Pics included show both sides of her) I am the most concerned about her scales beginning to pinecone out (she's had it for a little longer than a week), obviously my main concern at this point is dropsy. She isn't floating or having any trouble swimming, her gills are red, and I haven't detected any 'air bubbles' underneath her scales.
She's eating fine, but I'm not sure that she's pooping as much as she should (she normally has long, dark poops, but hasn't recently).
<What are you feeding? Some greens I hope/trust, and not much protein>
Her behavior is okay, she's resting near the bottom/in plants more, but I'm not sure if it's because she's sick or because one of the other fish (a larger Oranda) seems to get agitated when the tank light is on and nips at her; which causes her to stay hidden more often (This Oranda and Pearlscale got along fine previously to them moving to the new tank)
I was going to leave her in the main tank and continue to do water changes; but would it be better to set up a ten gallon quarantine tank for her?
<Not move>
If so, would you recommend that I begin treating her with antibiotics? Or should I do salt baths?
<I would leave all fish where they are and cut back your water changes to no more than 25% at a time; AND pre-treat and store change water if you can... ahead of use>
Thank you so much for your assistance,
<Time alone should see these fish improving here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Pearlscale with dropsy?       9/5/17
Hello again,
<"Little sweet one">
Thanks so much for your quick reply!
The condition of my pearl scale hasn't really changed, her scales are still sticking out, there are also increasing red areas around her bottom, and she is continuing to lose scales (I suspect more will fall off). (I have included another picture of her below)
I fed her peas, and she did end up pooping (normally I feed Repashy Soilent green fish food daily or every other day, and then feed peas once a week) her behavior is still fairly normal, she swims around the tank and isn't sitting with her fins clamped.
My next concern is my largest Oranda has developed fin rot, I have included two pictures I took yesterday; what concerns me most is that her tail has gotten even worse since I took these pictures (I'll try to get more pictures later today), as there are now red sections along the edge of her fin.
Is it safe to treat the entire tank for fin rot while it's still cycling?
<Not really; and the principal reason for my previous suggestion NOT to treat. The toxicity of such is far greater concern>
I would like to treat the entire tank in this case because my other Oranda and black moor have tears in their fins and white spots along the edges.
(although not nearly as severe as the fish I've pictured, I'm still a bit concerned about them both)
<I would still hold off till the system is thoroughly cycled. There are means of advancing such, mostly via the use of exogenous bacterial culture products; ala "Dr. Tim's One and Only">
What's especially bizarre is I noticed a white fuzz on one of the Anubias nana plants I have in the aquarium (once again I'll try to get a picture later today); it's coming from the stalk and from some of the ends of the roots, it looks like some sort of fungus. Should I remove the plant from the aquarium or is it safe to keep it in?
<I would leave all as is. The fuzz is simple decomposition from excess food. You can remove when doing partial water changes>
Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
<Mmm; IF I was going to add anything... it might be simple NaCl and/or Epsom Salt. Please read through Neale's piece here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/SaltUseFWArtNeale.htm

Re: Pearlscale with dropsy?      9/8/17
Hi again,
<Hey Melissa>
If I were to treat with salt, would you recommend doing a salt dip or to treat the entire aquarium?
<The whole tank. Dips/baths in whatever salt/s employed would do very little here>

I moved the pearl scale to a ten gallon a few days ago; normally, I wouldn't, but the Oranda was nipping/chasing her so much I was scared that it would continue stressing her. I've included two pictures that show how red her stomach/behind has gotten (the reddest portion is where she is missing a scale that fell off, and the red is around her scales in case it isn't clear in the photos)
I'm cleaning her tank everyday with 70% water changes, and she has an air pump and sponge filter set up with her.
<... is it cycled. Id est, there is NO nitrite or ammonia present? If not...>

She isn't bottom sitting or hiding in this tank, and she eats (I'm only feeding her a few peas every couple of days now). She is a very social, good natured little fish (which hasn't changed since she became sick).
At this point should I be concerned about septicemia? Or would you say the red is ammonia burns/poisoning?
<The latter, perhaps aiding in the former>
Another note, one of her scales fell off but is still attached to her (just by a little bit), it's become 'fuzzy' looking, I figured I would leave it be and let it fall off on its own, but would it be better to cut it off?
The other fish (in the main tank) are doing better, the fin rot on my larger Oranda looks about the same (barring a few tiny red patches that I couldn't quite photograph).
I've been putting Tetra Safe Start in the tank (definitely not my first choice, but the only thing locally available), so far ammonia levels seem lower than they were originally, but I haven't detected any nitrite or nitrate.
<Not cycled, cycling unless nitrate is accumulating... AND this likely will NOT occur due to the too-large too-frequent water changes. SEE our prev. corr. and where I've referred you to re cycling freshwater systems.>
I will continue doing small water changes with the hope that it will cycle.

and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again for all your help!

Goldfish with red lumpy operculum     7/25/17
I have a 60-65 gallon aquarium with 6 comet goldfish, 1 black moor, and 2 Chinese or Siamese Plecos. I have a hang on side filter system for 85 gallon tank and a submersible pump for circulation. There are variegated
philodendrons rooting in tank. When the tank was first started 2 years ago, my daughter threw some crawdads and snails and mollusks from a creek in with the fish. The snails and mollusks were eaten and the crawdads eventually killed off each other. Saturday's are 10% water change and vacuum days.
<Good. I'd increase this to 20-25%>
Water conditioner is added with new water....sometimes distilled, other times tap.
<Likely no conditioner necessary, and is the distilled nec... Oh, I see this below>
We have hard well water.
<How hard? GH, KH?>
Ph is usually in low to mid 7s. Ammonia is always less than or equal to 0.25 ppm. One in the past I noticed a fish with red streaking of its tail fin that went away untreated.
<Ahh; then I WOULD keep using the conditioner, or store the new change water a week in advance of use>
The black moor was a Wal-Mart guilt buy that brought ich to the tank a year ago. It was treated with malachite green....something that turned water ugly almost opaque green. It cleared up fast. Now. 1 week ago, the largest goldfish had a lumpy red operculum on right side. Looked like a mass.
<I see this in your pix>
It wasn't there the day before....I remember because family was visiting and looking at fish. Oh--temp of tank is around 70 in summer and cooler in winter. By that evening the lump had spread like a thick red ring with extra slime (??) at periphery of lesion.
<Good description>
I don't have an isolation tank. I added 1 tablespoon aquarium salt to each 5 gallons and put a heater in water....max temp it gets to is 78 degrees Fahrenheit.... pulled out my charcoal and floss filters (2 of each.). The initial site looks better if not pale with darker splotches. I thought it was working but next day the red ring crossed over top of head
and to other side. The margin that advances is very red and highlights the periphery of each scale. I don't know septicemia in fish but it's the closest I can match image to. However, all fish are acting fine eating fine. No flashing, rubbing. Only the one fish has symptoms.
<Thankfully; perhaps it has a/the weaker immune system>

We had one fat bivalve that was missing it's creature the day before I noticed signs. It was only one and it hid in gravel under big decorative rock forms. Can't swear fish ate it but they eat everything. I bought some quick cure..... for what???? ....my daughter swore she saw ich and was frantic....so treated 3 days.....did 25 percent water change. The fish looks same except the ever advancing red line with snotty margins.
<Mmm; I wouldn't use the Quick Cure here... too toxic, and won't help>
The first picture is day one....I know it's a side view but it really just looked thickened. I thought is it a tumor?
<Yes; this is my assessment as well>
The second picture was the next morning. I tried to swab site and look at it under a scope, but I wasn't sure what I was looking for. I know what dog parasites and Protozoans look like but not fish. I saw little Coccidia like clusters....ovals with a circle inside. I also saw a couple budding yeast like ovals. This may be a wild goose chase though. I read many posts and went through dichotomous keys....never found the answer.
<I suspect this is a tumorous growth, and not a pathogenic condition (Sporozoan, Microsporidean...) as if the latter, most all fishes would be similarly afflicted>
Please help. I need to stop letting the kids put live edible wild caught critters in tank. I need to cut back on number of fish, but don't know where to move fish to....my husband is over more tanks. The water quality hasn't changed really. It fluctuates little. There is small amount of algae on glass but not much. Sonya
<I'll refer you here to our generic "Goldfish growths FAQs":
and the linked files of the same name above.
Not treatable.
Bob Fenner>

Fwd: Goldfish with red lumpy operculum  7/27/17
Thought I'd update.... I did 25% water change and changed filters and charcoal. The fish 24 hours later looks amazing relative to the day before.
<Great news!>
The swarming margin crossed over to other side and all that is left is little red ring. The right side - the original side - is discolored but not inflamed at all that I can tell...pale operculum and a c shaped crescent of black pigment. It truly looked like a mass and it changed so fast day to day. Thanks for your time. I've grown quite fond of my daughter's fish. I'd hate for anything to happen. I will do bigger percent water changes from now on. Thanks again!
<Incredible improvement... just by fixing the environment. Bob Fenner>

My bubble eyed goldfish popped one of his bubbles, it looks very painful and he is darting around looking agitated.. What can I do to help him      6/17/17
<Doing your best to prevent further damage/trauma by removing all sharp, hard objects that this fish might get snagged on, assuring good water quality (see WWM... moderate alkalinity/hardness and pH...), and good nutrition is
about it. Some folks might suggest the use of salts; see here:
Given these, this goldfish should heal in time. Bob Fenner>

lump on goldfish tail       5/21/17
Sent from my iPad
<Claire.... text? Image? Bob Fenner>
Goldfish With Lump on Tail       5/21/17

Hi there I'm wondering if you can help me
Please see the photo below with my fish with the white lump on his tail.
<I see this>
We have had this fish for approx 3 years and the lump appeared about 6 months ago and has got bigger over time.
The lump does not appear to be affecting him at all as he is still swimming and eating well
Do you have any idea what it could be and if there is any cure
Many thanks for your help
Kind regards
<A growth of some sort... common; genetic, viral?... environmental, likely partly a matter of nutritional issues with goldfishes. Please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/GFgrowthsFAQs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Fwd: Goldfish With Lump on Tail       5/21/17
Hi again
I don't think it's anything to do with feeding or the water as there are 2 other fish all of which we've had for 5 years and seem to be extremely healthy with no lumps or problems
Could it be a cyst?
<Mmm; yes ("a thin-walled, hollow organ or cavity containing a liquid secretion; a sac, vesicle, or bladder."); but doubtful... peruse where I've referred you. B>

Unknown disease        5/10/17
I've seen my share of diseases and parasites since I've rescued fresh/salt water fish from LFS and people but this one is a tad different.
I have 150 gallon, sump with about 13 varying sizes of goldfish (Moors, ryukins, calico) Last week I lost my 6 year olds and blind Moor that rather unexpectedly but all the other tank mates showed no signs of distressed.
The Moor appeared to have a lump on the forehead/nasal area. I wrote it off as a tumor or an injury thinking he bumped into the glass but now 7 days later I see the same lump but now LUMPS on my Calico...the lumps almost
look like a fluid filled blister aand they are growing. The Calico shows signs of dropsy and I know the prognosis and will most likely put him down but WTH is this? I haven't introduced any new fish in over a year...guesses?
<... either genetic trouble and/or poor environment, and/or bunk nutrition.
You offer no information of use.
Bob Fenner>

"The Scream", GF version

Re: Unknown disease....       5/10/17
I offer no information of use? Just because I didn't include ammonia levels pH and so forth it's automatically genetic or environmental aka I don't keep a clean tank?
<GIGO... vague generalities in response to no data proffered>
Apparently you Bob aren't the expert
<Previously married, flow under pressure.... I stand or sit accused>
just as I am not because you can't identify the alignment.
<... ailment?>
...<Vulgarisms deleted. B>

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