
|
|
FAQs About Goldfish Disease/Health 5
Related Articles:
Goldfish Systems,
Goldfish Disease, Goldfish, Goldfish
Varieties, Koi/Pond
Fish Disease,
Livestock Treatment System,
Bloaty, Floaty Goldfish,
Gas Bubble
Disease/Emphysematosis,
Pond Parasite Control
with DTHP, Hole in the
Side Disease/Furunculosis
Related FAQs: Goldfish
Disease 1, Goldfish Disease 2,
Goldfish Disease 3, Goldfish Disease 4,
Goldfish Disease 6,
Goldfish Disease 7,
Goldfish Disease 8,
Goldfish Disease 9,
Goldfish Disease 10,
Goldfish Disease 11,
Goldfish Disease 12,
Goldfish Disease 13,
Goldfish Disease 14,
Goldfish Disease 15,
Goldfish Disease 16,
Goldfish Disease 17,
Goldfish Disease 18,
Goldfish Disease 19,
Goldfish Disease 20,
Goldfish Disease 21,
Goldfish Disease 22,
Goldfish Health 23,
Goldfish Disease 24,
Goldfish Health 25,
Goldfish Disease 26,
Goldfish Disease 27,
Goldfish Disease 28,
Goldfish Disease 29,
Goldfish Disease 30,
Goldfish Disease 31,
Goldfish Disease 32,
Goldfish Disease 33,
Goldfish Disease 34,
Goldfish Disease 35,
Goldfish Health 36,
Goldfish Health 37, Goldfish Health 38
&
Ammonia,
Nitrite,
Nitrate,
Nitrogen Cycling,
Koi/Pondfish Disease, Goldfish
in General,
Goldfish Behavior,
Goldfish Compatibility,
Goldfish Systems,
Goldfish Feeding, Bloaty,
Floaty Goldfish,
Goldfish Breeding/Reproduction,
|

|
Regarding Fantails
I was just wondering is it normal for my Fantails to lay upside down. I
find them like that once in a while and when I get close they take off.
Thanks Mike
<<Dear Mike; It is not normal, but it happens quite a lot with fantails and
other fancy goldfish. I highly recommend doing some reading up on goldfish care.
Use your search engine to look up "goldfish constipation" and "swim bladder
disease" because these are things they are most prone to getting sick with
internally. External problems are usually finrot (due to bad water quality) and
bacterial infections. Every goldfish owner should be aware of the symptoms for
these problems, so you can see them coming and head them off with the proper
care. One thing I will tell you is to TEST your water with ammonia, nitrite and
nitrate test kits on a weekly basis, until you are confident that your water
quality is consistently excellent. This is THE most important thing when it
comes to keeping fish healthy...all fish! :) -Gwen>>
Goldfish Emergency
I have a goldfish I have had for a very long time but just recently it has
started to get very bloated and all of his scales have fallen of in that area
please help. Thank you
<<Hello. I will repeat to you something I just told another person: I highly
recommend that you do some reading up on goldfish care. Use your search engine
to look up "goldfish constipation" and "swim bladder disease" because these are
things they are most prone to getting sick with internally. External problems
are usually finrot (due to bad water quality) and bacterial infections. Every
goldfish owner should be aware of the symptoms for these problems, so you can
see them coming and head them off with the proper care. One thing I will tell
you is to TEST your water with ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits on a
weekly basis, until you are confident that your water quality is consistently
excellent. This is THE most important thing when it comes to keeping fish
healthy. :) Best of luck. -Gwen>>
Striped Fantail Tale
Hi just a quickie. I have just bought a new tank as well as a
new calico looking fantail to go with my other two older
fantails. Unfortunately one has been hammered by the new
fish and his tail is really stripped. I have put the new fish
in another tank but the victim is on his death bed. Will he
recover? Do the tail's eventually heal? He just lies in the
one spot all the time and looks very depressed. Is there hope
for him/her? can you tell the sex of a goldfish???
Anyway, any info would be much appreciated.
*Sarah*
<<Sarah, you can try to save him. Keep the water in good shape by
doing regular water changes. Test your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
levels, and hopefully he is still eating? If he isn't, he may not
survive. Goldfish can recuperate well if given good care. You must
keep him separate from the others, though, until he has fully healed.
Fish will pick on weaker individuals, so chances are he was not
healthy when you brought him home. Do a web search on goldfish care,
and hopefully he will pull through. I would keep him in his own tank
for at least a month, so he can become strong enough to take care
of himself when you finally return him to the main tank.
It's hard to sex goldfish unless they are actively spawning, or if
you have bred them before and know what to look for. You may as well just
guess, you have a fifty-fifty chance of being right :) -Gwen>>
Goldfish Problems
Hi again Gwen, Still need your opinion.
Well I have to tell you my fishy (Stripes) is not doing very well. His body has
bloated so bad, it looks like it is about to explode (still
upside-down). Sometimes in the morning his body is so skinny, it looks like
he's waste finally came out of his little body and he becomes a sinker instead
(but that only happened a few times). So I put him in a small floating
container tonight, in the tank, so he can still see the other fishies and to
keep in the good water. I read in a book not to feed him for four whole days
because it would clean his whole system. So I decided to feed him peas maybe
just once a day for four days to try to help him, or maybe every two
days. Nothing else worked. Would this kill my fishy if I didn't feed him at
all for four days? I'm so heart broken for him, he's just a baby. I really
want him to get better, do you think this would work? W.Leger
<<Hi Wanda, I'm sorry to hear about Stripes. I assume he is eating still? As
long as he is eating, there is hope. Keep his water clean, as you know. Not
feeding him for four days at this point seems cruel, this is NOT an ordinary
constipation problem, so the "normal" rules (like withholding food for four
days) don't apply. Instead, I would feed him some frozen daphnia, but I don't
recall if you had trouble finding this at your LFS. The problem with being on
vacation (as I am at this moment) is that I am using someone else's computer,
and don't have access to my previous emails with you. At any rate, keep up the
struggle, and hopefully he will show improvement soon. Hang in there! You are
doing a great job so far; sometimes though, it is up to nature and sheer
luck...-Gwen>>
Black Moor and Eye-fluid
Hey there! I sent this a while ago and I'm resending it after reading your FAQ
on FAQs :) Thanks!
Hello! I love your website and all of the information available, it's definitely
helpful in a tight spot. I have a black moor "Hagen" (who has been completely
bright orange for the past few months) 1 year old. He lived in a 12 gallon tank
with another black moor until just recently and now they live in a 46 gallon
bow-front with three mystery snails. The quality of their water has been great
(until now, because their tank is still cycling the ammonia is 0, but the
nitrites are .03), and I do water changes to keep it under control. However, for
a few months now he's had these fluid-filled sacks around his googley eyes. (He
had it in the 12 gallon with great water quality). One of his eyes is worse than
the other and sometimes the donut shaped bags get puffier. I've tried adding
salt to make the swelling go down, but I'm cautious not to add too much because
it will shock my snails. Do you have any idea what might cause these
water-sacks? Could it just be a genetic defect? Also, my other black moor Hämma
has kinks in her tail fins, making them really wavy (not to mention the bites
that Hagen took out of them a while back leaving V shapes in the ends). The
kinks were there when I got her about 6 months ago, but seem to have gotten
worse and multiplied over time. Do you have any idea what may cause this kind of
deformity?
Thanks.
<<Hello. The kinks in the tail are usually a deformity, not much you can do
about it, really. I believe it is due to inbreeding. As for the sacks, please
tell me what your water parameters are, exactly. A nitrite level of .03 is not
perfect, and can cause stress. Black moors are extremely sensitive at levels
that most other fish can tolerate quite well, so even low levels can create
problems. Also, how high did the ammonia levels get during this cycle?
While the fish were in the 12 gallon, what did the nitrAtes measure at? Were
there any problems with ammonia or nitrite in that tank? Once we have eliminated
water quality problems (Sorry, I need to ask for specific levels, many people
test only two of the three levels, since most master test kits leave out the
nitrAtes....) The problem could be aggression from the tankmate (whether or not
you have seen any indication of it, it can still be there..), or some form of
physical eye trauma. Moors are prone to eye problems, firstly because they tend
to "bonk" into things in the tank, especially small tanks, and especially since
many of them suffer various degrees of swim bladder problems, making them
ungainly at the best of times. The best thing to do is keep up with the testing
and the water changes, and hope the moor pulls through. A mild antibacterial
like Melafix may help, but it also may wipe out what few nitrifying bacteria you
have already cultivated. You may have to move him back into the 12 gallon tank,
all alone and with no decorations to bonk into, and treat him there instead.
Separating him from the other goldfish may also help him heal faster. -Gwen>>
RE: Black Moor and Eye-Fluid
I just tested the NitrAtes. I followed the directions exactly and came out
with 10ppm. This seems low. What else could it be? Should I just wait a
couple days, see if he gets better, and if not, put him in a hospital tank
with some salt and MelaFix?
<<Hmmm. This could mean that the tank isn't quite cycled. What happens is that
the ammonia become nitrite, which then becomes nitrate. Ammonia starts
low and increases, then the nitrifying bacteria reproduce until they
can consume the amount of ammonia being produced. Then the same thing
happens with nitrite. However, if the bacterial colony is being disrupted
(like say, by using Melafix, among other things) then the bacteria never
get the chance to reproduce enough to control the amounts being produced,
and your tests will show small amounts of ammonia and nitrite, as in your
case. So...you need to keep testing regularly so the levels of ammonia/nitrite
stay
at around .25 ppm (by doing water changes). Stop using Melafix for now,
until you have zero ammonia, zero nitrites, and your nitrates are all that
is left to test for. In the meantime, yes, you can move him to a hospital
tank, and leave his tankmate in the main tank. You need to realize that the
bacteria will only colonize enough to handle the ammonia being produced by
the one fish, so when you re-add the Moor later on, you may want to double-
check the ammonia levels to be sure that the bacteria is handling the new
bio-load. It sounds more complicated than it is...and most people go
thru this without testing at all, and without detriment to their fish,
but in your case, it is better to know exactly what is going on in your tank
so you can prevent further stress to your pretty black Moor.
Hang tight, things will improve. Oh, and test the hospital tank, too.
Both salt AND Melafix can adversely affect nitrifying bacteria. Salt will
do so at higher levels than I would recommend you use, but it's not easy
to measure the salinity at low levels, so just be sure to measure out your salt
precisely,
and keep track of how much you need to re-add when doing water changes. It
can creep up to high levels over time, which is one reason I tell people
to only use salt to treat with, temporarily. Some people love to keep their fish
in salted water all the time, they don't realize their tanks can approach
brackish conditions over time. This WILL affect biological filtration, since
the nitrifying bacteria in saltwater and freshwater are not the same. -Gwen>>
RE: Black Moor and Eye-Fluid
The ammonia levels didn't get high at all. When I took them
out of their 12 gallon, I transferred the old gravel and the old bio-wheel,
and had been adding Cycle to the water. I checked ammonia and it never got
above .3. The Nitrites were .03 for a bit, but never got higher than that,
and have been 0 for the past few days.
<<While the fish were in the 12 gallon, what did the nitrAtes measure at?>>
I never tested NitrAtes. As you say below, my master test kit didn't
include a NitrAte test. I'll be sure to pick one up. However, there are and
have been live plants in the tank and very good aeration if that makes a
difference. I left the lid-flap off to keep the water cool and when it
evaporated, I removed 10% of the water and replaced it to top it off. So
water changes were small, but done regularly.
<<Okay, you will need to test nitrates. Grab yourself a test kit for it at
your LFS, I imagine the levels are extremely high. You would most likely
need to do weekly 50% water changes to keep it at an acceptable level. If
you use your nitrate test kit regularly, it will tell you how often you
need to do them. Please do NOT rely on a few plants to use up the nitrates,
it's not going to happen. Test it and see.>>
<<Were there any problems with ammonia or nitrite in that tank?>>
Nope, The moor with the eye problem lived in that tank for a year,
from the time he was less than 1" big. He never showed any problems and I
was very consistent on minor water-changes and cleaning the whole system
out.
<<Again, you must test for nitrates.>>
Now that you mention it, his tank-mate was being a jerk yesterday
and chasing him around, trying to bite him in the butt. But I haven't seen
this behavior before, and his eyes have had the bags around them for months.
<<All fish will pick on weakened tankmates. You need to separate them>>
<<Moors are prone to eye problems, firstly because they tend to "bonk" into
things in the tank, especially small tanks, and especially since many of
them suffer various degrees of swim bladder problems, making them ungainly
at the best of times. The best thing to do is keep up with the testing and
the water changes, and hope the moor pulls through. A mild antibacterial like
Melafix may help, but it also may wipe out what few nitrifying bacteria you
have already cultivated.>>
I've added Melafix to his water many times before, mostly for
minor fin-tears or possible tail-rot. Everything has cleared up within a
couple of days. I added Melafix yesterday as well, because his eye-bags were
especially puffy. However, I also measured the water, Ammonia was below .3,
Nitrites were 0. KH is 7, Ph is consistently 7.8. In the old tank, the water
was the same over a long period of time.
<<Ammonia/nitrite at any level will stress your fish. And Moors, as I mentioned
(and this
varies from fish to fish), cannot tolerate ANY levels of ammonia or nitrite.
Melafix can interrupt biological filtration, so perhaps you should not use
this until your nitrifying colonies become more well-established, say another
month or so.
Ammonia MUST be at zero for your fish to heal properly.>>
And nitrates must be kept low, as well. Please heed this, I can guarantee this
information from my own personal experience with these fish. Yes, there are
times
when goldfish are tough enough to be resilient, but not all goldfish are created
equal, and Moors are fragile. Some Moors more so than others.>>
Thanks! I'll be sure to check the NitrAtes as soon as I can get a
test kit.
<<Good luck! Be sure to let me know how it goes. Happy Fishkeeping! -Gwen>>
Bloaty Goldie - More Info, Please - 08/19/2004
I have a goldfish that we have had for a long time but just recently its started
to get very bloated and its scales have come off in that area.
<We'll need more info to be able to be of much help - how big is his tank? Any
other fish with him (how many, what are they)? Do you test for pH, ammonia,
nitrite, and nitrate? If so, what are the readings? What have you been feeding
the fish? When you say he's gotten very bloated, is he just very, very fat
looking, or are his scales sticking out, like a pinecone? Has he been
pooping? If so, what color is it?>
I will do any thing to sort this out. Please help, thank you.
<Without details, the best I can do is recommend that you make sure his diet is
appropriate (lots of greens - anacharis/elodea/Egeria or other water plants
available for him to munch on, blanched zucchini/cucumber, frozen/thawed peas
with the shell removed, spinach....) and be VERY cautious NOT to overfeed
him. Offer him only foods of high roughage content while he's bloated; peas,
daphnia, and adult brine shrimp are some options, here. Epsom salt (magnesium
sulfate) added to the water at 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons will help him pass
any blockage in his gut. Wishing you and your goldfish well, -Sabrina>
Sick Goldfish 12 Aug 2004
<Hi Brenda, MacL here with you today.>
we have a gold fish that has a bulge on the outside of its body . it looks
white, could you tell me what this is please. <It could be several different
things Brenda and without seeing it I can't be sure. Please take a look at this
site and see if anything looks similar.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/parasitcdisovr.htm, I'd be glad to
look at a picture if you could provide one of them as well.>
Goldfish Health
We recently set up a 155 gal tank in my home, about 8 weeks ago.. We have 4
goldfish (fancy gold, black moor, fancy spotted and albino) ranging from
about 1 1/2 inch to 3 inches and 2 tiny Cory catfish. 2 of the goldfish
(the black moor and the fancy gold are the oldest and were transferred from
a 5 gallon tank along with the Cory cats). Unfortunately, I don't know the
sex of any of the fish.
All has been well until a few nights ago when I noticed the largest of the
gold fish (fancy gold) sticks close to the bottom of the tank, with lots of
mouth movement and not socializing as usual (this gold fish and the black
moor typically spend a lot of time swimming together and chasing one
another), and eats less than normal. There are no apparent problems with
the appearance of this fish. Their doesn't seem to be any problems with the
water or the other fish.
Can you offer any advice?
<<Hello. Do you test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates? It seems unlikely in
such a short time and in such a large tank that any of these could reach toxic
levels, however I really do advise getting all three tested ASAP. That done, and
if everything looks all right, it could be something else...Do you have adequate
aeration and circulation? This will help your fish breathe easier, and keep the
temperature more stable. In such a large tank it is easy to have warm spots and
cold spots, you must keep the water well circulated. Especially during warmer
summer months when the tank temp can climb into the 90's if unmonitored.
Normally, fish lacking oxygen will gasp at the surface, so your problem may be a
parasitic one. Your fish may have gill flukes, easily remedied by adding an
anti-parasitic medication to the tank, such as Quick Cure or Maracide. Ask at
your LFS to see what they have in stock.
I would wait a few days before adding meds, just to be sure it is indeed gill
flukes, it's hard for me to tell without actually seeing your fish, so you will
have to use your best judgment. If the heavy breathing doesn't go away AFTER you
check the temp and circulation, then by all means, add the medication. Remember
to remove your carbon while medicating, as carbon removes meds. -Gwen>>
Ick Black Moor
Hi,
<Hi, Mike D here>
I have a variety of different goldfish. They have all been fine till now.
Our Black Moor is sick. The last couple of days he has hid at the bottom of the
fish tank in the corner. Looks like he is having problems swimming. He keeps
tipping to his side and even upside down.<This could be a congenital problem
with just the one fish, as many have "defects" from the centuries of line
breeding and inbreeding, or it could be a symptom of poor water quality with
this one just the first to show symptoms>
I caught another fish attacking him yesterday so I have taken him out and put
him is a small bowl.<Wise choice. While it seems cruel, sick fish are often
attacked and killed by the healthy ones>
I went home at lunchtime today and thought he was dead but he wasn't. He is only
just moving.
What should I do?<My first suggestion would be to purchase a basic test kit to
check water ammonia and nitrogen compound levels in your main tank, and then
increase water changes as needed to keep everything in line.>
I read up on one of the forums that he could be constipated and to give him
peas???<This sometimes helps, adding fibre and roughage to the flake diet.
Another remedy used with some success is to add 1 tspn per gallon of Epsom salts
to the container with the ailing fish. You truly don't have enough information
for anything but general remedies for this one individual, and sadly, it sounds
like it may already be too late>
We do regular water changes and feed the fish flakes.<Water changes are good,
but only if enough is being changed to keep water conditions stable, with
roughly 25% per month the minimum suggested. If the tank is regularly overfed,
the water changes need to be increased or feeding adjusted. I suggest feeding
only enough so that it's completely gone within 5-10 minutes. Even several times
per day is fine, as long as there's no excess accumulation left to decompose. As
to food, it never hurts to very their diet as all foods are not created equal
and some brands barely adequate to sustain life.>
Please help.<Get your test kit and try to monitor the ammonia/nitrogen levels in
your main tank to prevent anyone else getting sick and keep your ill guys bowl
as clean as possible with the peas and Epsom salt for now and keep your fingers
crossed>
Kind Regards
Tanya
Black Moor Eye Problem
Hi,
<Hi! Mike D here>
Recently (with in the last week) I noticed that my black moor has what appears
to be blood in the bubble of his eye. It originally started as a small spot of
blood and went away, but today, I noticed that the blood has come back and
pooled at the bottom of the eye.<If it was a one tome occurrence I wouldn't
attach any significance to it, but since it has returned it may be
noteworthy> He lives in a 10 gallon tank with a filter. The only other fish in
the tank is a pleco who is about 3 inches long. Other than the "blood" in his
eye, he seems to be fine, and has a healthy appetite. Any help would be
appreciated<The causes could be many, from something as simple as a weak blood
vessel in that area that's just a chronic irritation to something more severe,
such as a reaction to ammonia or nitrogen compounds that build in the tank.
Purchasing a basic test kit would probably be a good start so you'll know if
this is the area causing the problem. Increasing the frequency of water changes
can often solve problems such as this all by itself, which improves the overall
water chemistry. One last thing, of course, is to watch and make sure that you
aren't having a fighting issue between the two fish....many Plecostomus species
have a little "mace" type spiny club along either side of their jaw line that
they use to drive away fish that insist on getting too close, with an occasional
rare specimen known to turn homicidal and begin eliminating tank mates.>
Concerned Owner
"Quick Cure" for Goldfish With Ick
<Hi, Mike D here>
I have been treating my goldfish for Ick for almost a week now and he
still seems to have the parasite. His tail is drooping and he stays on
the bottom of the bowl<looking poorly is not the same thing as "still having a
parasite">. I have live plants in the tank, should I take
them out during treatment?<You don't say how large a tank he's in, but the
ingredients in this medication are definitely not conducive to healthy plant
growth>
I'm using QuickCure<Actually, this is one of my personal medications of choice
and is a pretty decent product>, it claims to work in 2 days.<OK, while it's a
pretty fair product, this IS definitely a bit of an exaggeration> Is there
anything
else I can do?<Without knowing anything about your tank size, filtration, etc.,
it's difficult to say. I, personally would have transferred him to a special
treatment tank as I NEVER treat my main tanks themselves. A few things you'll
want to do for sure are 1) some partial water changes ASAP as the tank MAY have
a build up of formalin and Methylene blue (both very lethal in overdose
amounts), as well as any excess ammonia and nitrites that may have already been
present in your tank. 2) I'd suggest getting some basic test kits and a
treatment bowl for future outbreaks, and 3) I'd continue treatment for 7-10 days
minimum WITH partial water changes every other day until done. Without knowing
any of your tank parameters, I strongly suspect that he's now suffering from
poisoning from at least the four previously mentioned chemicals, so the water
changes (up to 50% if need be) will have the fastest immediate visible
beneficial effects>
thanks so much<Your very welcome and good luck>
Goldfish help!
My Goldfish for last few days has been sitting at the bottom of its
tank. It has not been eating because it finds it hard to swim to the top of the
tank to feed and it has a white moldy bit near its rear end. I have removed the
log and one of the two plastic plants in the tank to give him/her more room. I
have also set up another tank full of clean water to transfer him/her into once
the water has oxygenated. The fish has also dug a small hole and the other fish
seems to be protective of him/her. I have two goldfish, the other seems
perfectly healthy. What could be causing this behaviour? and is there
anything I can do to help my fish?
< Sounds like you fish has an internal anaerobic infection. Try treating with
Metronidazole and follow the directions on the package. It is caused by dirty
water, too much food, too high a temperature or old food that has begun to rot
and has been eaten.-Chuck>
Thank you
Jess
Another Bloaty Goldie? - 08/10/2004
Hi Crew.
<Ahoy thar! Sabrina with you, this evening.>
I recently adopted a friend's Black Moor and 38 gallon tank. "Blackie" is a
fairly big fish, and seems to be an awkward swimmer (I'm not that familiar with
how a fish like this should look in the water - all my other fish, in a separate
tank, are tropicals, and good swimmers).
<"Fancy" goldfish are most all funky swimmers. If you're concerned about the
fish's behaviour, I urge you to observe the fancy goldies at any local fish
stores - look for healthy specimens, and watch their movements; it'll help to
familiarize yourself with what's normal and not.>
Anyways, sometimes, Blackie seems to get turned over when he's grazing on the
bottom of the tank. He usually rights himself eventually, but a couple of times
I've found him in the corner, nose down, or upside-down, and I have to move his
plant or decorative rock out of the way so that he can turn around. Is he just
getting stuck, or is he sick?
<Upside down doesn't really sound good.... Do you find the fish to be
"floaty"? What is its diet? If he's on strictly dry prepared foods, I'd
recommend giving him some good greens (blanched zucchini, cucumber, peas, also a
hearty offering of live anacharis/elodea/egeria plants available in the
tank). It could be that the fish is constipated. Getting him on a better diet
will help to clear him of any blockage and will prevent him getting in this
state again. There are other possibilities here, as well.... I'm assuming you
know what to look for in generally 'sick-looking' fish?>
Another thing, yesterday I added our other goldfish (a common goldfish that we
purchased when we were cycling our first aquarium a couple of years ago)
<Might want to look into some fishless cycling options, if you haven't already.>
to the 38 gallon tank as a companion for Blackie. But "Goldie" seems aggressive
towards Blackie - he chases him around, and looks like he's trying to nibble on
him.
<The fact that regular/common/comet goldfish are not malformed makes them poor
candidates for tankmates with "fancy" goldies; the comets tend to outcompete the
fancies for food, and can tend to pick on their more cumbersome counterparts.>
Is he trying to mate?
<I somewhat doubt this, but it is possible.>
How can I tell their sex?
<During breeding season, mature males will develop small whitish bumps on the
operculum.>
Or is he picking on Blackie because he's sick?
<Entirely possible - but I'm not completely convinced that Blackie's sick,
yet. Can you describe Blackie's condition in a little greater detail? Is the
fish very lethargic? Clamping its fins? Exhibit any abnormalities (red
streaks, eroded fins, strange bumps/lumps/marks, anything at all out of the
norm)? Are you keeping an eye on ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate?>
I'd appreciate any insights you can offer into the behaviour of these goldfish.
<Again, fancy goldies are very much poor swimmers in general, but I urge you to
go observe lots of others so you have a base to compare Blackie's actions to.>
Thanks!
<You bet! Please let us know if we can be of further assistance. Wishing you
and Blackie well, -Sabrina>
Bloated comet
Hi Bob
I have a comet that is approx. six years old about seven inches long in my
garden pond. It is quite bloated. Could this fish be egg bound, as I've had
happen with aquarium fish or could it be dropsy. The fish is quite active,
eating ok and otherwise appears to be healthy.
Is there anything I should do?
< If the fish is eating then it is not dropsy but it still could an internal
bacterial infection. I would isolate the fish and treat with Metronidazole as
per the recommendations on the package.-Chuck>
Bernie
Fancy Goldfish Ails and Aggression 8/2/04
Brian, Hello,
I am seeking help with my 2 new bubble-eyed goldfish. Actually I have 1
fantail, 2 medium sized black moors, 1 small black moor and 1 red cap Oranda,
that
I purchased all on the same day (Sunday) and have them in a 25 gallon tank.
This is my first time ever having fish and figured they were all part of the
same family and being community fish I shouldn't have any major problems. But
much to my carelessness of no research, this is where my problem comes in, one
of the fishes a bubble-eyed goldfish got its bubble sac stuck in the filter,
it got out right away and I have now covered the filter with nylon. Since
that happened my kids and I tried to keep a close eye on it and noticed that the
bubble slowly became deflated. Then to add more grief I noticed that my
other 2 medium sized black moors were picking on it, by sucking on it thinking
it's food I'm assuming or just being bullies and just this evening I was
watching them just before going to bed and noticed that one of the black moors
went
right after the bubble-eyed (previously injured in the filter) sucked on his
bubble sac and caused it's eye to turn completely red and is bleeding??? which
it was previously black in color and it's sac is busted. The other
bubble-eyed fish is also showing red veins in its bubble sacs from the moor's
sucking
on them and one has slowly deflated. After the bleeding incident I
immediately took both bubble-eyed fish out and have now separated them in a
bowl,
they seem to be doing fine. I feel so horrible, I hope this will not kill them
or blind my poor bubba. I am planning on switching them to my son's 10 gallon
tank keeping them separated. I am so new to all this and had no idea how much
care fish in general actually needed until my daughter started reading into
it on the internet and found this website where we can hopefully get some quick
help. What should I do?
<Keep the bubble eye isolated and keep the tank clean.
Watch for bacterial infections with red streaks or for fungus infections that
show a white fussy
cottony growth. Treat with Furanace for both. If you cannot find it then use
Maracyn.
After the sac heals it may reinflate but I don't think it will as nice as the
original.-Chuck>
Thanks so much, Shirley
Goldfish Question 8/2/04
I have 1 fantail and 1 black moor in a 10 gallon. The black moor had 2
anchor worms and I removed them and then treated the water with tank buddies
for
parasites and now with Melafix for his wound. I already took the fantail out
because I know parasites are contagious. However, it has been about 4 days now.
There is no filter in because it says to remove the filter. I tested my
water and I have high nitrates, nitrites, hardness of water and the test was
just
bad. I am going to do more than a 50% water change because of the medication
and all this other stuff then put back the fantail into the tank. Any
suggestions?
<<Hello. There is no need to remove the entire filter, just remove the carbon
from the filter, and let the filter
run as usual. Carbon removes chemicals, like medication, and you don't want to
remove the product you just added,
so... Removing carbon varies from filter to filter. If you have a BioWheel
filter, (e.g. a Penguin) with a cartridge,
you can use scissors to cut the blue padding on the cartridge, and shake the
carbon out of the cartridge.
If you have an Aquaclear, just remove the carbon bag. Same with a Fluval, or
other canister filter,
just remove the bags of carbon. If your carbon is still relatively new, you can
just let it dry on a paper towel
on your kitchen countertop, then re-install it back into the filter after the
treatment is done.
It is great to hear that you are testing your water, keep up the good work :)
-Gwen>>
Ailing Goldfish 8/2/04
<Hi, Mike D here>
Thanks very much for your reply. We took "Sunny" the sick goldfish out
of the tank and after a day or so he started to come around. His tail is
actually growing back now too.
<as would be expected>
He's doing something different now though. He's now swimming in a vertical
position
with his head pointing towards the bottom of the bowl
<not good, as this sounds like air in the intestines...was he gulping at the top
before he started this?>
and he has black marks, they look almost like ink, on his lower body and tail.
What can we do for him?
<I'd keep the water clean for now and keep feeding him. Don't be surprised to
see
a "fishy fart, bubble and all, and he might be fine. Trust me, it happens>
Thanks, Michelle
EXTREMELY sick black moor
I searched through your FAQs about goldfish & couldn't find anything related to
our problem. I found bits and pieces, but nothing quite like this.
I bought my son a black moor several months ago. He lives w/ a sucker fish in a
5 gallon tank. The tank has always appeared to be clean. By that, I mean the
water is clear. In the beginning he had ick & I treated him for that. Later he
had something else (I forget the exact problem) & I treated him for
fungus. Otherwise, he has gotten along quite fine. He eats flakes & is quite
the pig (I just read about the peas?). Ok, now the problem:
last week he developed a lump under his eye. It was black just like him &
looked as though it would soft. It was no larger than his eye. We had to live
for two days & upon our return I found him in the absolute worst condition I
have ever seen! One of his eyes is popped. The other is bloody & cloudy. One
side of his body is completely white. The scales look as though they're still
there. It's like he turned white? There are white areas on the other side of
his body. His tail fins literally look like they're disappearing. The other
fins are close to his body.
When I found him, he was sitting on the bottom of the tank. Now he has been at
the top. I'm sure he is going to die. As I look at him now he his close to the
surface & looks as though he's struggling. Sometimes he lays there at the top
still, sometimes he's shaking. I'm not sure what to do.
I guess basically I want to know what happened to him. Do I try to fix him or
let him go. If I have to let him go, do I just let him die on his own? I've
never seen a fish look like this. I am so glad my son is w/ his grandparents so
he doesn't have to see him. I seriously think he would have nightmares.
Btw, the sucker fish looks absolutely fine.
Thank you for any help.
Donielle
<<Hello. Your fish has fin rot and an eye infection. You need to test your water
for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. As you read our FAQ's, you know that water
quality is important, and is 90% of the problem. In order to save him, you will
need to go to your LFS, get your water tested, and buy an internal antibiotic to
feed him, assuming he is still eating. Even if he is not, you can add an
antibiotic to the water, too, for the fin rot (and remove your carbon). Ask your
LFS what they have in stock to sell you for this problem: fin rot, and a
bacterial eye infection. I hope it is not too late, but I think your moor is
beyond hope by this point.
And, for future reference, PLEASE USE PROPER GRAMMAR when you email us. Even
though this is a professional website, we are all volunteers here, and most of
us answer these emails late at night after a long work day. So, please try to
make our jobs a bit easier. Thanks. -Gwen>>
Re: Sick Black Moor
Gwen; Thank you for your feedback. The fish
did indeed die. If
I decide to keep fish again I will be sure to keep the water #1
priority. I believe he also had internal parasites, though.
I remember long orange 'poop' in the beginning along with white.
Lastly, I cannot believe your final comments. The website
appears to be friendly & a good place to go for feedback.
Here you are 'yelling' at me to "USE PROPER GRAMMAR." What in the
world?! I cannot figure out what you thought the big deal
was. I tried to be as thorough as possible. I found a
spelling error, I said "btw" instead of "by the way," and I may not
have capitalized. I find this to be absolutely ridiculous that I
write for help for my 5 year old son's fish & I get accused of not
using proper grammar! For your future reference, you might want
to be more considerate to those who ask for help! I know I was
trying to be considerate by being as detailed about the situation as I
knew how. I am not an expert.
P.S. I do still consider it a wonderful thing that you take
time out of your day to volunteer for this site, but for crying out
loud. Show some respect
<<Donielle; I am sorry to hear about your fish. As to "respect"... I spent a
good deal of time re-typing your email so that all the "i"s were capitalized
before I sent it back to you. All our emails go directly onto the website "as
is", so if I don't correct it for you, my only other option is to send it back
to you, unanswered, but with the request that YOU retype your query and send it
back to us again. I decided to simply do it for you, and ask that next time, you
don't send me all "i"s. You would not believe the amount of time correcting all
these emails consumes, for all of us here, and it adds up. It's really quite
frustrating. It may not be a "big deal" to you, but for us, it certainly is,
after we have spent untold hours of time correcting grammar that could have gone
towards answering more emails from people who need help, like you. My apologies
for coming off as yelling, I was not, but I WAS trying to convey my point.
Respect? We deserve it, too. Please don't force us to return emails, it wastes
valuable time that your fish may not have. You also must remember that this
email is not private. Other people are reading this. My intention is to make
sure folks understand WHY we are returning their emails...it is not personal: it
is necessary. -Gwen>>
Bulge in Body
Hi, I have a Shubunkin which is about 3" in body length with good colouring
and no fin damage. It shares a tank with two other fish, one a "normal" goldfish
(21/2" body length) & the other a fantail (31/2" body length).
All have been very well until we noticed a bulge in the shubunkin's body just
behind the left hand gill. There are no surface marks or lesions. The fish does
not appear distressed or unwell and it feeds & reacts to me at the tank glass.
The tank has a charcoal filter and a Fluval filter as well. (Tank is 24" X 12" X
12").
Please advise on treatment, if any and any other advice you think relevant would
be helpful. Regards, Phil Dorking
<<Dear Phil; The fish you have now are overstocked, and require weekly, if not
bi-weekly, waterchanges, a specific diet, and quite possibly, a bigger tank. I
am sure you already know this, but it never hurts to read a bit more.
Here is a link to some websites you may find interesting:
http://www.fishlinkcentral.com/links/Freshwater/Goldfish/
The bulge could simply be a benign tumor, a cyst, or an indicator of a
problematic internal disorder. Stress levels need to be lower in this tank, so
please, read up! Good water quality is half the battle: I will need more info in
order to diagnose him properly. Do you test your tank? Ammonia and nitrite
should be zero, and your nitrates kept as low as possible with waterchanges. Can
you tell me your test results? Please test your water regularly. In the
meantime, you can add aquarium salt (found at your LFS) to help his condition,
and try feeding him some Pepso Food, also found at your LFS. Good luck. -Gwen>>
Infection 7/29/04
I have read your questions but none seem quite the same as this. I have
recently received a fish tank that is 135L (Australian) It has plenty of live
underwater plants and they are fed twice daily with goldfish food. In it there
are 6 fantails (2 red caps, 2 pearl scales 2 black ones) Also we had 12
minnows. Over the past 2 weeks 7 have died. They have been found surrounded in
white fuzzy stuff. One of the still alive fish has some of this white stuff on
it and I am worried that it might kill all of the fish in the tank. Please tell
me what it is and how I can fix and prevent it.
<White clouds can handle cooler water like goldfish. I would catch the remaining
white clouds and place them in a hospital tank for treatment. I don't think you
have a fungus because a fungus is usually found on dead fish or on damaged
areas. I think you have a bacteria infection. I would treat with Furanace in the
hospital tank. If you don't have one then I would treat with Maracyn in the main
tank. Do a 30% water change and service the filter before treating. I think the
nitrates in the tank got high and weakened the minnows.-Chuck>
Thanks Kelsey
Heaven Bound Celestial Eye
Hi!! Two weeks ago I got a new goldfish, those black ones that have big
eyes. Since the beginning he is not eating well and today he is floating on
one side and having trouble breathing.
< If the water is cloudy then the ammonia from the waste is burning his gills
and the filter needs to be cleaned and some of the water needs to be changed.
Increase the aeration and do a 30% water change.>
I placed him in a separate container
with some Epsom salt but it seem that he is not improving. PLEASE help me!!!
< You fish may have developed an internal infection that will require some
Metronidazole to cure. Your LFS should have some in stock.-Chuck>
Heaven Bound Celestial Eye (continued)
<Hi, MikeD filing in here>
Thanks very much for your prompt reply Chuck...but the problems with my
celestial have increased overnight. You can refer to my previous email,
but here's an update of the last 24 hours:
1. his water temperature drops quite low during the cold nights - I'd say
less than 18C (64F), so I have kept him in a slightly warmer room, and put
towels around his bowl at night to keep heat in. I don't cover the top
though - should I?<Although rapid drops and increases in temperature are taxing
on many fish, less so with goldfish, actually a cooler water fish that is often
stressed by higher temperatures>
2. His tail rot appears to have stabilized, BUT it is not any better, and
the frayed edges have whitish spots on them.<This sounds like a secondary
bacterial infection that's apparently resist to the Furnace>
3. I've noticed clustering of small white spots on his tail fins too (the
spots appeared about 2 days ago, and have since dramatically multiplied in
size and number). I'm guessing this is ich?<I'd have to say this is a realistic
assessment> I have bought some medication
containing 37mg/ml formaldehyde + 0.32mg/ml malachite green, but am unsure
whether to add it yet as it seems like quite an aggressive treatment, and
I don't want to further compromise his immunity.<Ick won't compromise his
immunity, but will rather just kill him. Ick's a protozoan parasite that often
most severely infects a fish's gills and eyes, and unless treated promptly the
die is likely cast>
Last night, on the advice of a couple of aquarium stores, I put 2 tsp of
rock salt into his bowl (which contains about 5L of water). He has perked
up slightly, but still seems quite listless. My major quandary is that I
am out of the country for the week from Thursday, and will not be able to
constantly monitor him - as a treatment with malachite green/formaldehyde
seems to require. Some websites and a vet I spoke to have suggested the
increase in salt content to about 2g/L... is this a good idea, or will it
mean that the ich comes back?<The increased salt would be effective only against
a fungus attack and will likely stress the goldfish as much as it does the Ick
parasites, possibly more>
Aalso, In cases like this, would you recommend
treating with antibiotics
first and then the Ich treatment, or the other way around?<Ick first,
antibiotics second. Have you considered that a larger container with a more
stable environment would likely eliminate most or all of your difficulties? A 10
liter container would cost less than what you've already spent in medications>
Am suffering a
bit of information overload here and am a little confused!
Thanks heaps for the useful info on your website; you guys do a great job!
I feel quite awful as I was given my fish as a gift, and don't want him to
die through my inexperience.<Unfortunately, that often happens. Keep in mind
that it's much easier to prevent illness than to cure it>
Che
Anchor Worm?
My son had two gorgeous goldfish and recently purchased another (huge)
goldfish for his tank. All seemed well for months but then all three
developed red spots. The larger fish spends most of the time now on the
bottom near the filter tube; however, the other two seem to "feel" fine.
They seem to act normally. Anyway, today when I went to look at them, the
two smaller ones have white spikes growing out of them now with black tips.
What is this and where did he go wrong? Can it be cured? We may not have
much time. Thanks, Ruth H. Lancaster
<<Hello. It is very important to do regular, partial waterchanges on
goldfish tanks, generally once a week, if not more. What size is the tank,
and how often are waterchanges being done? Please ensure good water quality,
it really makes ALL the difference. That said, it sounds like an anchor worm
problem. The red spots can be treated with waterchanges and Furan or Melafix
(found at your LFS) but the anchor worm needs an anti-parasitic, Dimilin
works well. Please treat the red spots first, since adding a medication to
treat the anchor worm can irritate those spots and make them worse, so let
the fish heal first, THEN add the Dimilin afterwards. It shouldn't take
longer than a week with the Melafix, and then another four days with the
Dimilin. Good luck. -Gwen>>
Goldfish and Salt
Hi Jess here, My goldfish is laying at the bottom of its bowl and its
not moving I'm
using sea salt that I got at A.C Moore, does that effect my goldfish?
<<Yes, salt affects goldfish: it can help them swim, it can help treat ich and
fungus. Don't add too much though, too much can cause problems. I recommend
simply doing your waterchanges more often, perhaps everyday until the fish
improves. -Gwen>>
Ailing Goldfish
Hi,<Hi, MikeD here>
We have two goldfish in a 40 gallon tank. They've been very happy,
getting along for about 6 months now<It's refreshing to see a tank not loaded to
it's maximum capacity>. Yesterday we noticed the one's
tail is all chewed up and pieces of it are in the filter. We assumed he
got caught in the filter cause we've never seen them fight at all<Logical.
Goldfish aren't noted for fighting>. We
cleaned out the whole tank and put them back in. This morning the fish
with the chewed tail is on his side at the top of the tank. He's still
swimming but only in one spot and he's on his side. He looks so sad. Is
there anything we can do to help him?<About the only thing I can truly think of
would to remove him to a separate hospital tank and treat with an antibiotic,
such as Maracyn. Normally I wouldn't suggest treating without knowing exactly
what's being treated for, but with the damage you imply and obvious stress it
sounds like this guy is a prime candidate to be taken out by a secondary
bacterial infection>
Michelle<Good luck to you>
Black Speckled Goldfish
Hello. Hopefully you can help me out. I have two Sarasa comet goldfish who
are normally very healthy and active. Recently, I noticed my bigger goldfish
hovering horizontally at the bottom corner of my 10 gal. tank. I also noticed
that he appears to have black "freckles" on parts of his body, (which were
otherwise pure white), as well as a black line along the outer edge of his tail.
I did an ammonia test (as I thought they may be ammonia burns) but the levels
were ok. My other fish is still healthy and showing no signs of being sick.
I am confused because occasionally he will "get up" and venture normally about
the tank, playing with his "brother" and swimming in and out of the fake plants.
Sometimes he'll even swim to the top where his feeding ring is, to look for
food. These episodes last for maybe 5 minutes then he will return back to the
same corner and just hover there. His fins (aside from the black parts) are
still healthy and fanned out save for the dorsal fin which has drooped down but
only a little. When he stays at the bottom of the tank his breathing is rapid
but not gasping. So far I have administered two tablespoons of aquarium salt,
added a double dose of Cycle, and just today added a teaspoon of aquarium tea
tree antibiotic solution. So far nothing's changed.
What's wrong with my little guy? What do you recommend I do?
Any advice or information you have would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you. Sincerely,
Andrea
I also wanted to mention that I have a Whisper Filtration system as well as an
air bubbler for extra oxygen.
<<Hello. I recommend you test for nitrite and nitrate, not just ammonia. The
level of ammonia in any established tank should be zero...since it is being
turned into nitrites, then into nitrates. Test for these, they are most likely
the culprits. I also recommend many frequent, partial water changes, until you
get ALL the above things down to the proper levels. Two Sarasas in a 10g will
require water changes twice a week, more if the levels remain high. You may want
to think about getting a larger tank soon. -Gwen>>
GOLDFISH PROBLEMS 7/21/04
Hi, <Hi Sonia, MacL here>
We've recently become first time fish owners with two small Fantails. We've had
them for a few days and they seem to be swimming around a fair bit and generally
seem quite happy. We have them in a 10 litre bowl with an under gravel filter
and we've been feeding them a small amount of flakes 2 times per day. <Way too
much food, please only feed them once a day or possibly once ever other day.> We
just have a few concerns with them though that we're hoping you can help with.
One fish is particularly bloated near it's rear end and constantly has poo
hanging out behind it - this fish also eats about 70% of the food compared to
the other. <Way to much to eat.> As this one seems to be constantly pooing,
there is a fair amount of waste amongst the gravel. <And I'm sure a large amount
of ammonia in the tank which can make them sick.> And lastly, they both
constantly hover around the top of the bowl swallowing the air bubbles.
<Definitely ammonia in the tank. Please do a water change and cut way back on
the food, Don't worry all of us have over fed at one time or another!>
Hoping you can help with these questions!
Thanks - much appreciated.
Sonia
Septicemia in Goldfish III - the Update!
Hi WWM Crew!
<Hi back! MikeD here>
Just thought I'd let you know that all my fish are on the mend thanks to your
excellent website and advice.<It's always better to hear of the advice that
worked!**grin**> The red cap is still in the QT with tetracycline, but has gone
from lying motionless on the bottom to constantly swimming around and begging
for food!<Now THAT sounds like a normal Oranda! Well done, Madam>
Melissa
Ailing <Poisoned> Goldfish
hi <Hi, MikeD here> all of a sudden my goldfish stopped eating.<That's not good>
it was always so active but ever since I noticed pieces of its skin shedding
away from the back near its tail it doesn't move or anything not even eat<That's
really not good!>. its been 3 days and I was advised to give it Melafix but yet
no luck it stays to the top of the water well in an awkward position its head up
and the rest of the body at a slant about a 60 degree angle. please help and
thanks in advance!
<A couple of questions...is this fish in a bowl, an aquarium or a pond? If #1 or
#2, my first suggestion is a partial water change, not forgetting to
dechlorinate the new water before adding and go from there. That's often all
that's needed.>
well its in a bowl I use the water from the tap so there should be some level
chlorine in there.<It's a miracle this fish is alive! All city water contains
enough chlorine to prove immediately fatal. In some cases, simply allowing the
water to stand for 24 hours will allow the chlorine to evaporate, but in others
a commercial dechlorinator is needed, usually requiring 1 drop to 1 teaspoon per
gallon, depending on the brand used.> how can I dechlorinate the water and a
partial
water change meaning how much?<I'd suggest ALL of it, immediately if using a
dechlorinator, in 24 hours if you just let it stand.>
Goldfish Eyes
hi <Hi, Mike D here> I have bought a few more goldfish and one of them is a
fantail that has a mixture of colours - gold, silver, black, blue and it looks
great, almost tropical. However, while one eye appear normal and has a black
pupil and a white outer rim, the other is completely black. Could this just be
a marking<yep, sure could>, like some goldfish have their white bit coloured
orange, this one may just have it cooured black. Or do you think there may be
a problem with it. it doesn't protrude or anything and I can also see the puil
within it if I look closely enough.<You just answered your own question. If you
can see a pupil then the eye is likely just pigmented black and you have an
unusual appearing specimen.> Could it be blind in that eye<That too, is always
a possibility. All goldfish are the same fish species (a carp!) with all of the
different appearances achieved through in-breeding, line-breeding and any other
technique you can think of, so technically all of the unusual forms could all be
looked at as birth defects and you would be correct there as well.> or am I
over-reacting and this appearance is normal<Yep, you're over-reacting a tad
too! **grin**>. Thanks a lot and I'll look forward to your reply as I need
reassuring.<Consider yourself reassured and you're welcome.**grin**> Yours
sincerely Liam
Ammonia in Goldfish
tank 7/16/04
Hi, I read your site quite often and have learned much of what I know about
aquariums from it, thank you.
<Thanks, Pufferpunk here>
I am currently having a problem I can seem to find the answer to anywhere. The
ammonia level in my tank is high (1.2 mg/I) and I cannot seem to bring it down.
The PH is a little low but not too low. I have a 51 gallon tank with 5 goldfish
in it (3 comets, 1 black more, 1 fantail). I do weekly 25% water changes. I have
2 aqua clear filters - 1 300 gallons/hr and 1 500 gallons/hr operating at all
times. The tank is about 1 year old and had me thinking that having fish was the
easiest hobby in the world for the first 10 months. About 2 months ago I noticed
my place's stopped eating and water tests reveal ammonia in the water. One place
died and I took the others back to the fish store so they wouldn't die as well.
I cut down on the food I was giving the fish, although I am quite sure I wasn't
over feeding. I feed them twice a day and they take less than 1 minute to eat
it. The aquarium is a planted aquarium and the plants are growing much faster
than the goldfish can eat them (even with the ammonia problem). Are they getting
too much food from the plants? Any suggestion as to what I can do to lower the
ammonia levels would be appreciated. I don't like the idea chemicals as the
goldfish seem to be tolerating the current environment. I would hate to make the
problem worse in the long run.
<Goldfish are high ammonia/waste producers. The pH is low (acid), from goldfish
pee. You didn't mention how large your fish are, but at around 5-6", they'll
need about 20g/fish. Many serious long-term goldfish keepers do weekly 90%
water changes, to keep their goldfish healthy & long-lived (over 20
years). Since you've only been doing 25%, I'd work my way up to larger changes
by doing 30% 3x in the 1st week & then your fish won't be shocked by the large
change in water quality. Make sure to clean the gravel & clean one filter/week,
leaving the other filter for the next week. Make sure to gently agitate the
plants with your siphon to release any debris/uneaten food. Clean under all
decor too. Most folks consider goldfish as good "beginner" fish, but actually
they're pretty high maintenance. BTW, what's a "place"? ~PP>-
Fantail Help
Hi Mike!
<<Gwen will do nicely :)>>
I need some desperate advice. I've had my 4 fantail gold fish for 2 1/2 months
now. They are fine except for one. He has been floating a lot at the top of
the water and ending up upside down. Lately it has been more frequent. I know
that it is caused by his swim bladder. I have quarantined him, I give them peas
every night and vegetable flakes, check there water quality regularly and water
change when time is due. Everything is good except him. I have tried
everything. The pet store said that there was no cure for this. Is it
true? If not, what else can I do? It is heartbreaking to see him like
that. When he does get a little better, he gets so excited that he can swim
with the other fishies. Please help.
Thanks, W. Leger
<<Is this fish still eating? You can feed him a medicated flake food, which you
may or may not find at your LFS...they seem to think he is beyond help at this
point, so maybe they do not know about or do not stock medicated flake food, or
any medication for Internal bacterial infections. Ask them, anyways. If they
have it, use it, follow directions on the package. Do so for a good three weeks.
As long as the fish doesn't exhibit signs of dropsy, there is a chance to help
him. Dropsy is when the scales stick out, and the fish resembles a pine cone.
Usually fatal, but can be cured if caught at the beginning and treated for a few
weeks. Best luck, Gwen>>
Fantail Help III
Thanks for the tip. What do you think about Maracyn-two?
<<Go for it. Should help, it's a good product. Just follow the instructions to
the letter, as with all medications, they are only as good as their user :) Make
sure you buy the freshwater version.
-Gwen>>
Fantail Help IV
Thanks Gwen, I have started treatment today. The fish that is the floater (I
call him stripes) has a lump on his right side on his buttocks. It is round and
seams like it is were his waste goes because when he eats you can see thru the
skin the color of the food or peas. I bought him that way. Would you know what
that could be. At the pet store they said it could be an accident that happened
when he was a baby (when being shipped). I have to tell you it sure is great to
have someone to talk to who knows what they are talking about. Thanks a
lot. I'm trying to learn more about them as much as I can to keep them
well. Thanks again for the great help. I am little bit less apprehensive.
PS: I gave your e-mail address to my brothers fiancé, she has two tanks (20 and
25). She is having problems lately with her fish to. I'm not sure if she will
e-mail you but I thought I'd let you know that I gave it to her. I told her
that you were a lot more help than the pet store. Thanks a million. W. Leger
<<Wanda, it's a pleasure:) and you are most welcome. Your bumpy fish could have
been that way from birth, yes. It's hard to say without seeing the fishes growth
over time. At any rate, I'm sure he will be just fine. IF he is eating well, you
can also supplement the Maracyn II with Pepso Food (from Jungle), this should
help his little insides, too. I hope your fishy recuperates soon. Let me know
how it's going. Tell your brothers fiancé to mention my name in her email,
otherwise her email will be put into someone else's inbox here at WWM. -Gwen>>
Fantail Help V
Hey Gwen, I have another kinda silly question. What about bran cereal (the
kind that are like string). Would that be bad for the gold fish. I would
pre-soak them to make them soft. They say Goldfish eat anything. So would this
be a bad idea? He still is not better, the medicine did not work.
<<Wanda, sorry to hear. This could take some time, patience is required. Don't
forget, he was pretty much near death, it will be something indeed if he
recuperates at all, never mind quickly. Please keep up with water changes, and
hopefully he will pull through. It could take a couple more weeks, and as long
as he is alive, there is a chance. Good luck. -Gwen>>
Fantail Help VI
Hey Gwen,
But what do you think of bran cereal. Is it a bad idea?
<<Ah, sorry I forgot to answer that part! I'm not sure about bran cereal...I
don't see a problem as long as the flakes do not turn to mush and deteriorate
the water quality. Why would you use them? They can not be considered a food
staple, but perhaps as temporary attempt at treating minor constipation. I've no
idea if they would even work for that. One thing I do know is that it can take
WEEKS for a medication to completely cure a fish, and in NO way can bran flakes
replace an antibiotic as an effective treatment for an internal bacterial
infection. -Gwen>>
Fantail Help Thanks VII
Cool, thanks again and I will tell her to put her name and I will certainly
let you know how my fishy is doing. Wish me luck and take care.
PS: I put you in my address book, just incase, LOL.
W. Leger
<<Wanda, it's always a pleasure to help. Tank care! :P Gwen>>
Fantail Help VIII
Thanks Gwen,
I just needed to know if it could be a good thing. well my little guy is
always upside down now, I guess I'll just have to wait it out. Thanks again
for all your help and tips. I'll keep in touch. Take care. W.Leger
<<Anytime :) -Gwen>>
ANOTHER GOLDFISH PROBLEM
Hi I sent an email a month ago regarding a fantail goldfish who appeared to
have an internal blockage or parasite. I did everything for the little guy
including feeding peas, aquarium salt, changing food, treating with medication,
water changes, hospital tank...etc. But, in the end he didn't make it. I only
had three fantails in a 55 gal. tank with an Emperor filtration system and a
large air stone. The nitrates and ammonia were 0.
Anyway, all has been fine and my remaining 2 fish have been happy and appeared
to be healthy. I continue to do frequent water changes and everything
else. Now, I have noticed that one of the fantails is exhibiting the same
behaviors as the last one that died. He is laboring in his breathing, lethargic
and sitting on the bottom. His poop is clear, with very little color and is in
a long string. His head currently seems to have the beginning of ich with two
very small white spots on it. And, along one side of his body, he has red small
pin-head sized dots in a perfect line going from his gill down his body and
ending at the tail. And, his head seems to be constricting. This happened to
the first one where his head became emaciated looking? I need help and
fast. I have successfully raised goldfish for many years with no problems. I
moved into a new home and started up a new tank. It cycled and everything and
now, it has been problem after problem and I am frustrated. Should he die like
the first one....will the others go too? Even after being so healthy? Healthy
one day, and then the next....this is what I get. What can it be and what can I
do to make it go away forever? I do water changes frequently and
everything. Sinking flakes, live plants, etc., etc., etc.
<<Hello. Check your LFS...I would recommend treating him with a medicated food
like Pepso, and if possible, remove him to a hospital tank where you can also
treat him with Maracyn II, a broad spectrum antibiotic that is absorbed thru the
skin. These meds should help, and the sooner you can begin either or both
treatments, the better.-Gwen>>
<THEY to as fish the and are they aquarium. your of than wallet contents with
concerned more much seems shop this care, Use juveniles. these but pairs, in
live do can because both sell trying size surviving. actually them considering
not now referring grow! will have you forget, Don't now. capacity over or at
you're opinion, my last most lucky,>
Goldfish Problem
Thank you for your information, but he died before I received it. Now, I
wonder how I can ensure that none of the other fish get ill? This is the 2nd
one that has died. The first one died a month ago and then this one just one
day started looking ill and never recovered. Do you know what this might be and
if/how I can prevent the other 2 remaining fish from getting it?
Thank you.
<<Hi. The best way is by prevention...keep the water clean!! That means testing
regularly for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels, and keeping them all low
with regular partial water changes. I usually recommend weekly water changes
with goldfish, they produce a great deal of waste, which builds up quickly. The
smaller the tank, the harder it is to keep the levels low. Also, you can do a
web search for water chemistry, to help understand the nitrifying process, and
also goldfish health, both which should help you immensely.
-Gwen>>
Goldfish I
Hi, three days ago, I changed the water in my tank. I have a ten gallon with
two fancy goldfish. They are both about five years old. I noticed the one fish"
Treasure" had a bubble on his side, it was clear. I spent time on the net and
thought it might be gas bubble disease, so I bought Melafix antibacterial meds
and added more air to the tank. Today he is upside down at the bottom of the
tank, breathing heavily. What more can I do? The other fish "Squirm" has not
shown any signs of illness. Help soon,!-Karla S.
<<Karla, Good job with the aeration and Melafix. How often do you normally do
water changes? Did you use dechlorinator? Perhaps the pH from the tap water is
radically different from the tank water? Test both to be sure they are the same.
Also, test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. Something is not right, and the
only way to figure it out is to test the water for all the above. Let me know
how it goes. -Gwen>>
Goldfish II
Hi Gwen, I have been writing to you about "Treasure", my fancy goldfish. I
have treated him with Furan the last four days, feeding him peas and Tubifex
worms. He is still unable to swim properly. I returned him to the main tank, all
levels are now safe, except nitrates. I continue to do 25% water changes, but he
sits on the bottom of the tank. I have to hold him when I feed him. He has lost
parts of his tail and continues to breathe heavily. I still have hope, but need
advice.
Thanks,
Karla
Hi Gwen, here's the latest on Treasure. Thanks for all of your help. I am
holding and feeding him a pea a day, as much as he'll swallow and not spit out.
I am also feeding him brine shrimp daily. The ph is now safe, but I still have
stress level nitrate. I am continuing water changes, as suggested. I put
Treasure back in the main tank, but he is in a breeder net, my other goldfish
tends to be aggressive. I started using Furan-2 yesterday instead of Melafix. He
tried to flip over last night and today, but without success, he is still upside
down. Your thoughts?
-Karla
<<Karla, I'm sorry to hear he is not recuperating quickly. There may still be a
chance, I recommend you do not overmedicate him, though. Perhaps after this
Furan treatment you should simply keep his water changes going, and let him
be...it may take some time for a full recuperation. Patience, and clean water.
Hopefully this will be enough. I hope he struggles on! Congrats on getting this
far, Karla, you have done your best, and that is all we can ever do. Keep me
informed. -Gwen>>
Goldfish III
Thanks Gwen, I'll keep you posted. I held Treasure and fed him a pea. I'm out to
get the kits now. Thanks again.-Karla and Treas
<<You are welcome :) -Gwen>>
Goldfish IV
Well, I tested the water and all levels were toxic. So, I changed the water,
but the nitrate is still high. Treasure is still floating and breathing, except
he is upside down, the bubbles are much smaller. I have hope. What's next?
-Karla
<<Next is, keep testing, keep changing water, re-add Melafix, keep praying. Is
there any way you can take some of the filter media from the ten gallon tank's
filter to add to the filter on the hospital tank? Adding some media with
nitrifying bacteria would help, but you still need to be careful, Melafix can
harm that bacteria if the colony is not large and well-established. Your best
bet is to keep changing the water till the fish improves, then put him back into
the main tank, and keep that water clean, too..
-Gwen>>
Goldfish V
Hi Gwen, thank you so much for all of your help. I stopped medicating and
fed Treasure sinking food and Tubifex worms. Unfortunately, we lost him on
Wednesday. He was a great fish and survived five years plus. We buried him next
to our rose bush :-(. I learned a lot about goldfish diseases and proper care.
Thanks again, Karla
<<Karla, so sorry to hear about Treasure. But at least you are better prepared
now for keeping future goldfish. I wish you all the best with your next
"treasure". I hope you will call him Treasure, Too :) Chin up! You did a great
job, but sometimes we lose fish no matter how much we do. It happens to all of
us. -Gwen>>
Goldie, Goldfish
Tank: Small 1 gallon bowl with blue stones on bottom and one fake plant
in the middle at the bottom. There are no other fish.
Hi,
We were away for 4 days and when we returned our goldfish had a large
red blotch on her head with some white cloudy stuff over it. It also looks like
it's protruding.
She is darting about and spitting out her food. There were some teenagers in
our home while we were away and a cleaning woman. I'm having trouble
diagnosing because it looks like either ammonia or trauma.
We cleaned the water twice and it is ammonia free. (We couldn't check the
ammonia before we cleaned the bowl because we didn't have the means). I
saw something in the tank that looked one long thread of a spider web.
I hope you can help.
Thank you,
Lorin and my children, Jennifer and David
< Could be trauma and the fish smacked his head on a rock or the side of the
tank. The white stuff is fungus feeding on the dead tissue. Treat the fish with
Furanace and that will get rid of the fungus and treat any bacteria that has
infected the fish. Next time you change the water use a conditioner with some
wound control.-Chuck>
Thank you for your advice and quick response. Just one more question. She is in
a plastic bowl and I noticed that the antibiotics are set up for dosing 10 gal
tanks. (I think one said 1 teaspoon). Do I put one drop in the water while the
fish is in the bowl?
< Place the fish in a clean 5 gallon bucket and cut the dosage in half.-Chuck>
Goldfish ills
Hi,
I have a goldfish, which I have had for nearly 4 years, he has been through
quite a bit in this time, has been sick a few times and always recovered. About
2 years ago, the other fish who was in the bowl with him passed away, and his
stomach got very bloated and black in colour, this disappeared, but he has
always remained quite bloated.
For the first 3 years, I used tap water and drops, he recently had red scaling
over his body, and we were advised this was stress and to put him in filtered
water, he seems to have been okay with this for the past few months. The other
day, I cleaned the bowl and noticed white specks everywhere, which again I was
told was stress related, I cleaned the bowl again and he seemed okay. I went
away for 3 days, when I returned, I noticed that he doesn't seem well, and under
his tail is very red and swollen and there are a few white specks (that seem a
little hard to touch) on the bottom of the bowl. Are you able to tell me what
the red swollen problem is around his bottom, do fish get constipated?
< Yes but I don't think this is the problem. I think you have a bacterial
infection. Clean the bowl and then treat with Furanace. Follow the directions on
the package. If the white spots are on the fish then you need to treat for ich.
Make sure that the water doesn't get too warm during the summer months.-Chuck>
Kind Regards,
Leisa
Injured Bubble Eye
Hi, sorry, I am really frantic now. My bubble eye is now in a critical
condition. I came back home to find the bubble eye's "bubble" stuck to one
of the pipes of the filter. Now although we freed it, but the bubble eye
appears to be highly injured, with the bubble deflated, and there seems to
be red and white pus-like items within the injured bubble. As there are
other goldfishes within the tank, 2 orange/white pearlscale and 2 red
lionheads, so I decided to put it in another separate tank. That's all I can
do for the moment, however, is there anything else I can do??? I am really
worried, please try to guide me. Do you need a picture of it? I can take it
and send you as soon as possible. Please reply me AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.
THANKS. Best Regards, Caroline
<<Caroline, Since the fish is already in another tank, all you need to do
is add a bit of Melafix to the water, and pray :) You can also buy a
medicated food at your LFS, which should help as well. Injuries like this
are not life-threatening, but the fish may not regain the use of the eye,
and the bubble may not grow back the way it used to be. It depends on the
extent of the damage. In the meantime, keep the water quality high with
regular water changes, your nitrates should be low in order to control
secondary infections. Also, test the water in the main tank. This fish
would have had to have been already weakened in order to get "stuck" to an
intake, normal fish do not get stuck to intakes...so you really should test
all tanks for ammonia, (should be zero), nitrites (should be zero) and
nitrates (should be around 20-40ppm). -Gwen>> |
|

|
Goldfish Query
Hello, I am not sure if my Oranda has got dropsy or egg compaction. I'm not
sure of its sex. It's got a swollen abdomen (it has always been slightly rounder
than my other fish but not so much as it is now) and its scales are protruding a
little also its eyes are a little bulged, this concerns me because I know its a
symptom of dropsy. It's behaviour seems normal, maybe a little quiet and
lethargic and its vent seems a tad more noticeable than usual.
I'd be very grateful for your reply. Thank you, Justine
<<Justine; Raised scales always signify dropsy. If it has just started, you
might save the fish. If the fish is still eating, you can go to your LFS and buy
some medicated food for internal bacterial infections. It might take a few weeks
to recover. If he recuperates, make sure you feed your goldfish a high fibre
diet: a good quality Spirulina flake, frozen daphnia, and skinned peas. Also,
keep the water clean with regular partial waterchanges. Nitrates should be as
low as possible, 20ppm is a good level to aim for. -Gwen>>
Sick Goldfish
I have a question about my goldfishes, I recently bought them from Petco and
transferred them into my tank. Things were going fine, until today when I
discovered that there were little white particles attached to the fins of the
fishes, it looked like water bubbles at first, but then when I took a closer
look I realized it wasn't, what is it? And is it normal? Also, the three that I
bought like to lay on top of the rocks middle of the night, sometimes in the
afternoon as well, are they sleeping or is there something wrong? Please reply
as soon as you can, thanks.
<<Hello. Sounds like they have ich, a parasite. You will need to go back to
Petco and buy some Ich medication. Read the label, and follow the instructions
carefully. Also, you might want to take along a sample of your tank water, so
they can test your water for you. -Gwen>>
Septicemia in Goldfish
Hi,
<Hi, MikeD here>
I have a 40 gallon tank with four goldfish in it (6 inch comet, 5 inch red cap,
1.5 inch black/gold fantail, 1.5 inch orange comet). I had another pearl scale,
but it just died with red streaks in all its fins and obvious internal bleeding,
appearing as bruises, and also in the eyes. Now, the two big fish have started
showing streaks in their fins and redness in the joints. I guess it might be
septicemia<that sounds like an accurate assessment>, but I can't get Maracyn 2
in Australia (I've ordered it but since the pearl scale took just two days to
die, I don't think I should wait).<Wise as it's obviously advanced>
I added Triple Sulfa about 6 hours ago. It didn't dissolve quickly - the fish
are so well trained they started eating some!<no problem, in fact that's
actually good> So I'm not sure if they ate too much or anything - the two big
ones are gulping air a lot now. Did I poison them?<not with the medication>
Should I add Tetracycline as well?<too much is a BAD thing, use one at a
time> HELP!!<If you were to check your water, I suspect it has elevated levels
of ammonia in it. Goldfish are notoriously dirty and this is very common. You
don't say anything about any type of filtration, but my FIRST action would be to
do a 25% water change, followed by another 25% and THEN start medicating>
Melissa
Goldfish Rupture
We have a 3 year old comet goldfish that has been healthy until a couple of
weeks ago. After a tank water change, he became very inactive and stayed on
the bottom of the tank. At that time, I noticed that his abdomen had become
a
little swollen. I read that they can sometimes have constipation or
indigestion which makes them inactive, so we did not give him any food (fish
flakes) for a few days.
<<After a few days of not-feeding, you need to give the fish some help in the
form of a high-fibre diet. Goldfish are herbivores and need a good Spirulina
flake on a daily basis, some frozen peas that you cook for 5 minutes and
remove the skins on a bi-weekly basis, and the occasional frozen daphnia, to
help keep the intestines clear.>>
However, that didn't improve the situation, a few days later, we noticed that
something
white was protruding out from his bottom
right side, which was more swollen than before, with the scales being raised
a
little. The next morning, we saw a brown trail about an inch long coming out
from that spot. It didn't look like a parasite, as it was about a millimeter
in width, and an inch long, but we tried the salt bath to try and get it off,
in case it was a worm. It did come off, but it looked more like fish poop
than anything else.
<<Yep. Indicating intestinal constipation problems.>>
Anyway, since then, the fish is back in his tank, and the side has reduced in
swelling somewhat, but it's still raised a little and you can see it's a
little brown underneath. He's more active, swimming around the tank, but he
doesn't use his tail fins, and it looks like he's being pulled up by his
tail,
and he seems to be struggling against floating to the top.
We haven't really tried to feed him too much since the rupture, although he
seems a little hungry, picking things off the gravel and, and acting a little
more normally. I haven't seen him poop either.
<<Not much will come out if you are not feeding him. Start feeding the fish!
Make sure it is in the form of peas ONLY for the first few days. Goldfish are
sensitive to changes in their diets, so be careful in the future when changing
foods, and don't feed the wrong foods..>>
What could be the matter with him, as I can't find anything online that
remotely sounds like what he's gone through?
<<Intestinal blockage, leading to swim bladder disorder, which you will find
information on in any decent goldfish website. Here are a couple of links for
you to read:
http://www.petlibrary.com/goldfish/symptoms.htm,
http://www.goldfishconnection.com/articles/details.php?articleId=83&parentId=8,
http://www.netpets.com/fish/reference/freshref/swimbldr.html
>>
Thank you for your advice! This fish is special because he was a prize to my
son for getting potty-trained! We hate the thought of putting him out of his
misery, but also don't want him to suffer! Esther
<<Please do regular partial water changes to prevent this problem from
worsening. Buy yourself some test kits for ammonia (should be zero), nitrites
(should be zero) and nitrates (keep nitrates at a low level, between 20ppm and
60ppm). And do some more reading! -Gwen>>
Goldfish Rupture II
Thank you for your response! I will try the peas diet right away. The
goldfish did have some more stuff coming out from the side a few days ago
(second time), and we fed him a couple of times with the same fish flakes
(couldn't bear the thought of starving him), and now he's a little inactive
again. Do fish ever have intestinal ruptures like that and still survive? Is
it worth trying to prolong his life? Thanks again, Esther
<<Esther; He should be fine, as long as you can get him onto a high fibre diet,
and keep his water quality as good as possible. Buy him some peas, get those
test kits, and do some water changes, and he should start to perk up within a
few days :) -Gwen>>
Goldfish low activity
Hello-
<Hi there.>
I'm new to keeping an aquarium. Everything is going
pretty good so far. I have two goldfish, an Oranda, and
a fancy tail bubble eye. Yesterday the bubble eye has
started resting on the bottom of the tank, this is the
first time he's done this since I got him. The water
has been checked,
<by checked I'm assuming you mean the standard Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH,
etc... testing.>
I don't dump any unnecessary chemicals in the tank.
<Very good practice to keep.>
I've added some aquarium salt, but that is it. Is it normal behavior, or
something else?
<I'm not sure how large this tank is. My thoughts are that this is due to an
increase in the temperature do to summer. So, you need to check your water
temperature. Goldfish require cooler water, and many owners have difficulties
with goldfish as the weather gets warmer. So, monitor your tank, if it is
getting to warm then try to keep the lights off of it, or if it is in the direct
sunlight to move it out of it. Also, i would consider (if you don't have one
already) to place in an airstone/airpump to help oxygenate the water. As the
water warms it has less diffused air for the fish to breath. This should help
the fish. Also, four goldfish can produce quite a bit of waste and unless kept
in a tank that can comfortably fit them you run the risk of having sick
fish. Monitor your fish and keep an eye to make sure the fish doesn't have any
other health issues starting (spots on the skin, fin rot, etc.) things that
could happen to a fish when it's immune system is not at it's peak. If you
start to notice extern problems you can treat with medicines such as Mardel's
Maracide. But, try not to treat your fish unless you see that they are
sick. Medicine in the water will only help decrease the oxygen levels, and if
the fish really isn't sick it won't help.>
Thanks, Kevin
<Good luck with the fish. -Magnus>
Pearlscale with Swimbladder Problems
Hello Gwen
thanks for the reply but we unfortunately lost the fish two days after I sent
the email, we had transferred him to a separate tank and were trying him on
frozen daphnia but to no avail.
I think that the water quality is ok we've bought and used the test sticks and
all the other fish including our other pearlscale look healthy enough. The sick
fish had been inactive since we bought him two weeks previously but had always
been lively around food. He was even feeding vigorously on the day he died. So
who knows? I don't know whether to buy another Pearlscale or something more
hardy ?Is swimbladder common in Pearlscale's or were we just unlucky?
many thanks, Jenny
<<Dear Jenny; sorry to hear :( But to answer your question, most fancy goldfish
can fall victim to swimbladder problems, it depends on genetics and environment.
Since we cannot change the fishes genetics, all we can do is provide them with
the best environment possible, including clean water (low nitrates) and a
healthy vegetarian diet. You can find a great deal of info on fancy goldfish
using your search engine, to help you keep your fat, sassy goldfish alive and
kickin for many many years :) -Gwen>>
Swim bladder Problems
Hello can anyone offer advice, we have two pearlscale which we've had for 2
weeks, today the fatter and less active of the two started swimming on one side
and may have a possible swimbladder problem to add to this he appears to have a
small gash on his side and is being chased and nipped at by our two small fancy
fantails who nip his bottom and fins.
Would it be best to treat him in the tank which he shares with our other
pearlscale ,two small fancy fantails, and two small telescopic fish? Or to
separate & treat him? What is the best treatment for swimbladder problems.
Many thanks, Jenny
My Sister's Fishes are
Acting Weird...
>My sister's goldfish are acting very strangely. We have 2 goldfish. One is
orange and one is gray/black colored. The orange one has been lying on it's side
on the floor for about a month. The orange one also is kind of crooked. It's
body posture is like a V. It started getting fat and it's eyes are strangely
starting to....grow (like.. budge out). and it doesn't eat. But today, we saw
that the black one was "picking (or eating?)" the orange one. The black one is
like sucking on the orange one's eyes, fin, body, and etc. my sister has been
feeding them in the morning and at night. We've had four fish in the beginning.
Two of them died. So. we've had these fish for over 2 years.. What's wrong with
them? ><<Sounds like you need to take a sample of your tank water to your Local
Fish Store and have them test it for you. Chances are good the water quality has
deteriorated over time, the nitrates are probably wayy high. You should be doing
weekly partial waterchanges! I think your orange goldfish may be beyond help,
pop-eye is a sign of internal bacterial infection. Treatment is necessary to
save him, but unless you can get your water quality back in shape, there isn't
much hope. The other goldfish may survive, but again, you will need to get busy
with those water changes in order to prevent him from developing the same
problem. Make sure the water is the same temperature, and use a good
dechlorinator (water conditioner), which you can buy at your local pet store.
-Gwen>> >
Thank You!
<<You are most welcome. -Gwen>>
Goldfish on Bottom of Tank
Hi,
A few days ago I sent a question regarding my large egg shaped goldfish who has
been sinking (uniformly) to the bottom of the tank. You had suggested it was
swim bladder and suggested not feeding them for a few days. This does not seem
to be working. I have checked the water and the ammonia and nitrates are 0. I
have also added aquarium salt. He was eating peas for several days before. He
is one of three goldfish (he is the biggest) in a 55 gal. tank. I have live
plants and an apple snail. The filtration system is an Emperor and there is a
large airstone on the other side. The other two fish appear to be doing well.
What I have noticed is that he has long strings of clear poop trailing behind
him. It is thin and it looks like an encasing with nothing in it. He is now
beginning to swim less and less. When he swims, he swims normal. When he
sinks, he sinks belly first - no abnormal swimming. No outward signs of
distress. Could this be something else? An intestinal parasite? What can I
do? He was fine for several months. It has now been about 3 weeks of this
behavior.
Thanks so much for your help.
< Your fish has an internal blockage in its gut and requires medication.
Metronidazole will treat the anaerobic bacteria building up in the gut of your
fish. The trick is to catch it early for a complete recovery. Follow the
directions on the package and watch for ammonia spikes because the medication
may affect the good bacteria that break down the fish waste.-Chuck>
Goldfish with dissimilar size eyes
hi! my name is Karen i have a question concerning a bubble eye
goldfish, he
is in a tank with 3 other goldfish. we have had him for about 5 months and
today his one eye as in the pupil is a lot smaller than the other? Is this a
genetic thing? can that happen over night? the eye sacs are still the same
size?
< I suspect that your goldfish is blind in that eye. Sometimes in is genetic.
Other times it may have been damaged during handling. Run a net by your fish on
that side and see if he responds. There is no way to reverse the damage.-Chuck>
Another sick goldfish!
Hey WWM,
My goldfish has bubbles and white spots on their fins. What is wrong
with them?
< Probably ich, a protozoa infection. This is easily cured with rid-ich or some
other Formalin-malachite green formulation. It takes about 3 days to cure,
longer in cooler water. Check for ammonia spikes during and after treatment.
Follow the directions on the bottle carefully.-Chuck>
Swimbladder Problems
Hello can anyone offer advice, we have two pearlscale which we've had for 2
weeks, today the fatter and less active of the two started swimming on one side
and may have a possible swimbladder problem to add to this he appears to have a
small gash on his side and is being chased and nipped at by our two small fancy
fantails who nip his bottom and fins.
Would it be best to treat him in the tank which he shares with our other
pearlscale ,two small fancy fantails, and two small telescopic fish? Or to
separate & treat him? What is the best treatment for swimbladder problems.
Many thanks, Jenny
<<Dear Jenny; You may remove him to another bowl or small tank for treatment.
Make sure to test your water frequently, both in a hospital tank and in the main
tank. Water quality can deteriorate quickly when keeping goldfish, it's
important to have your own test kits and use them to keep your water quality top
notch: Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits are all available at your LFS.
Sometimes swimbladder can be cured by simply improving water quality, and by
changing the fishes diet to spirulina flake, shelled green peas (buy frozen
ones, but cook them for a few minutes to soften them) frozen daphnia, and
pre-soaked Hikari pellets. More advanced cases may require medicated food. Here
is a link to a website that can give you some good info on goldfish diseases:
http://www.goldfishinfo.com/diagram.htm
and another:
http://www.bristol-aquarists.org.uk/goldfish/info/diseases.htm
also, if you need more info, do an Internet search for swimbladder disease.
-Gwen>>
Sick Goldfish
Hello........ Please can you help me..... I have 2 big Veiltails, Both
female. One of them is fine, the other one, 1st, she started to clamp her dorsal
fin, and now she hangs to the water's surface. She still eats well. When i feed
them, she will swim to the bottom to get the food. I have been doing water
changes, and i do use a tap conditioner. What else can i do ?
Thanks very much
< The clamped fins could mean a couple of things. Either a protozoa or bacterial
infection. I would try some rid-ich first for treating protazoas. It takes at
least three days to see if it is working. If you don't see any improvement then
I would use furanace to treat the bacterial infection. Follow the directions
carefully and watch for ammonia spikes because these medications will affect the
bacteria bed.-Chuck.>
Rachel.
Red Red Everywhere
I have three goldfish (2 celestial and one Oranda) in a temporary 10 gallon
tank with a filter. Recently they have begun to show red streaks in their fins
and around their gills, especially the Oranda. I thought it was fin rot but then
the red around the gills of the Oranda threw me off. Could it still be? The
Oranda looks terrible but is acting fine. The other two look a bit better, but
have droopy fins and are less active than usual. Help?
<<Hello. Please do some waterchanges! Also, you can add one teaspoon of salt per
three gallons of water. Do you have any test kits for ammonia, nitrite or
nitrates? Perhaps your LFS can test your water for you. Melafix can also help.
It is an herbal product with great results. The red streaks are a sign of bad
water quality. Depending on the severity of the problem, the waterchanges,
Melafix, and salt should be enough. If you see the problem does not begin to
improve within the next few days or so, you may need an antibiotic. See your LFS
for what they have in stock to treat external bacterial infections. And please
do more frequent partial waterchanges! -Gwen>>
Poorly sick goldfish
Hi
we have 2 goldfish in a 40 gallon tank. One of the fish has become very bloated
& his scales are sticking out, he also has a reddy bloom under his scales. He is
still eating well & is very active.
We have tried the Epsom/sea salt in the water but there seems to be little or no
improvement
What would be the best course of action??????
< Your fish has and internal bacterial blockage( Bloat-Dropsy) as well as an
external bacterial attack too ( Reddish areas under the scales). Check the
ammonia levels (should be zero) and the nitrite levels (should also be zero).
The nitrates should be under 25 ppm. Clean the filter and do a 30% water change.
These things are needed or no medication in the world will help. To treat the
internal bacterial problem you need to treat with metronidazole as per the
directions on the package. For the external bacteria I would use furanace. It
will turn the water green. It is best to treat fish in a smaller isolation tank
as well as much cheaper too. Check for ammonia spike because all medications
affect the "good nitrifying " bacteria to some extant.-Chuck>
Many Thanks
Sedentary Goldfish
my goldfish stays on the bottom in the corner of my 55 gallon tank, why
< If your goldfish has been exposed to poor water quality like dirty water and
the ammonia or nitrite levels have gotten very high and stressed your fish ,
then he may have picked up a swim bladder infection. The air bladder in the fish
helps keep it buoyant. Sometimes bacteria attack the opening to the bladder and
the fish can no longer control the amount of air going in or out. The fish then
becomes a belly slider and scoots along the bottom of the tank. Cleaner water
may help but there really is no treatment that is very effective.-Chuck>
Fantail Sick
Hi. NEED HELP.. I have a fantail goldfish for about a year. It is
constantly having scales fall off, so i got this distinct-m medicine. Everything
was fine until this morning, I notice there was a white little bump on the side
of the body it is as small as a scale. It looks like the scale is going to fall
off but is still partially stuck on. It is eating fine, and swimming around. Is
it Dropsy, but it is not bloated or anything. Thank you very much.
<<Hi Melody; dropsy is a symptom that is easily recognized by viewing the fish
from above...looking down on the fish you will see the scales are all sticking
out uniformly, the body resembles a pinecone. Therefore, one lone scale sticking
out due to a cyst should not be a problem. Scales falling off is usually related
to aggression from other fish. I can't really tell you what the fish's problem
is, so I will ask you to get your water tested at your LFS for ammonia, nitrite,
and nitrates, and let me know the results. Also, if you could give some more
info, it would help. How big is the tank, is the fish eating well, what other
tankmates, how many times a month do you do waterchanges and how often you clean
your filter media (never in tapwater! use old tank-water to clean filter media,
as the chlorine in tapwater will kill off quantities of your nitrifying
bacteria), and how long have you been using this medication? I am not familiar
with Distinct-M, what does it treat, and what are the ingredients listed on the
box?-Gwen>>
Goldfish on Tank Bottom
<Hi Kim>
I am hoping you can help me. <I'll give it a shot.>
I have a 55 Gallon tank. It has an Emperor filtration system and I also have a
large airstone on the opposite side of the tank.
I have one (3 inch) orange fan tail gold fish, one small pearl scale (2 inches)
and one 3-4 inch gold, egg shaped (I don't know the name) goldfish that has the
beginning of a lion style head. And, one apple snail. All of the fish get along.
I have live plants in the tank and have tested the water. The water quality is
good with no ammonia.
I have been feeding the fish floating pellets, but have now replaced them with
peas for about 1 1/2 weeks. <Why did you switch to the peas? Because of the
sick fish? Do you mind me asking how long since you checked the ammonia? Do
you have any bottom feeders to clean up what the fish don't eat besides the
snail?>
Here is my problem:
For the past three weeks, my largest egg-shaped fish has been laying on the
bottom. He swims when he wants, but always retreats back to the bottom. He
seems to have something in his belly that weighs him down. <Sounds like a
possible swim bladder problem.> He can swim, but if he tries to float, he
sinks. He sinks slowly and evenly. I have tested the water and it is fine. I
have replaced his food with peas. <Actually very smart. Either him eating the
peas or possibly having him go without food for two or three days.> The other
fish are swimming around fine and healthy. There are no outward signs of
distress or illness. He seems to be breathing ok, but I have noticed that after
he swims, his breathing is more rapid as soon as he retreats/falls to the bottom
and then it slows to a regular pace. He does eat, but he cannot eat well from
the bottom, because it seems that his belly is too heavy to give him the
buoyancy he needs. I have also added salt and done a water change (not in that
order). He's a pretty wide and fat looking fish with a short tail.
<Unfortunately the ornate goldfish, as I understand it have a predisposition to
this problem. No one really knows what causes it. There are several different
possibilities. Viruses, bacteria (like in an infection, body shape, and or
what's he's eating.> Before, he enjoyed eating everything and swimming. <Sounds
like a lovely fish. Might I ask? Do you soak your food before you feed
it? This can be helpful as it prevents the food from swelling up within
him. Very helpful for this type of fish.> Could he be constipated? <Its a
possibility.> And, wouldn't the peas have helped that by now? <Depends on how
fast he is digesting and if he has any other problems going on.> Or, has he
grown too big and his short tail can't support him? He used to have long trails
of poop following him. I haven't seen that in awhile. <Sounds like he might
have a problem. In all honesty I believe it is with his swim bladder. I would
suggest not feeding the tank for a few days and seeing if it resolves itself on
its own. Very difficult I know for a lovely caretaker. There is another method
that can be done where you basically stick a pin in the swim bladder but since
you are new at this I would not recommend that you do this. If he doesn't get
better in a few days you might consult a knowledgeable vet who knows how to do
this.>
<I'm so sorry he's not well. I wish I had more answers for you on this. His
particular body shape does make him more prone to this type of thing
happening. Keeping his tank as clean as you have been doing, helps more than
anything. Please keep me updated and let me know how he is doing. The only
thing you might try is an antibiotic that's gentle on the chance that the
swimbladder problem is an infection of some sort. Should you try this, you'll
need to watch your tank closely to make sure it doesn't affect your good
bacteria in your filter system. Please keep me up-to-date Kim. Mac>
Thank you,
Kim
Goldfish Parasite?
<Hey Kendra, MacL here>
I have a question about parasites on goldfish. I have a 29 gallon goldfish tank,
and I just recently added a Pearlscale to it. A few days after the addition, I
noticed that another one of the fish (A red Oranda) has what looks to be a
parasite attached to its tail. The parasite is ~.5cm long, is white with black
spots on it, and is surrounded by what looks like a ring of green. <I'm very
much afraid you have been attacked by anchor worms. That sounds very similar to
the worms I had to pull out of a friends pond and off the fish. A picture would
be extremely helpful.> I have been treating the tank with Melafix for the last
several days but have not seen any improvement. The afflicted fish seems
otherwise fine, is still eating and has no noticeable problems. <That's very
good. The problem is that the worms will multiply and attack the other fish.> I
have read the information on parasites but nothing I read sounds remotely
similar to what I'm seeing on the fish. What is this, and what can I do. <If it
is anchor worms, they need to be manually pulled out with tweezers. Then you'd
continue treatment with the MelaFix or another antibiotic to prevent
infection. A picture really would help to make this more accurate. Good luck.>
Dead Fish?
My house pet goldfish, which I won from a carnival on Wednesday night has
just sunk to the bottom of the tank & he is not moving around. Im pretty sure he
is dead but I just wanted to make sure. Thank You.
<<Can you touch him? if so, he might move. If he doesn't, he is dead, if he
moves, I recommend a full waterchange to see if he perks up. -Gwen>>
Bloody Sores
Hi, I have 2 goldfish in a 30 gal. tank. I know that is not big enough at
all. They are waiting for our pond to be built. I'm looking to get a 125
gal. tank for them while they are waiting because this 30 gal. does not seem
to be working for them. One of my goldfish is 11 inches, the other is 9
inches. My problem fish is the 11 inch (2 & 1/2 year old comet). He has
red sores that just showed up yesterday. One is right behind his left fin
(almost in his armpit/fin pit), the other is underneath between the two fins.
The spots are blood red and the one behind his left fin is red with a
whitish gray in the center. He sits on the bottom of the tank all day.
When I feed them twice a day he comes up and eats. He also spits out of the
top of the tank when I open the lid. I started treating with Melafix
yesterday after I did a 90% water change. I do 90% water changes once a
week. I know I should probably do that more often. I clean their filters
every other day. One is a 20 gallon whisper filter and the other is a 30
gallon penguin filter with BioWheel. Any help you can give will be greatly
appreciated. I really love this fish. I got him right after my dad passed
away 2 years ago. I want to do everything I can to get him healthy again.
Thanks for your help, Jennifer
<<Dear Jennifer; Your fish seem to have a bacterial infection. Are you vacuuming
the gravel? You didn't mention it, so I had to ask. Doing so will help keep the
toxins down. Also, you may want to do two waterchanges a week instead of one,
the BEST way to know how often to do waterchanges is to buy yourself some test
kits. Get the Master Test Kit from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, the new version
comes with ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and pH tests. Test them all on a
regular basis. From the number of times you are cleaning your filters, you may
be having some ammonia or nitrite problems. Go to your LFS and ask them for a
decent antibiotic to fight septicemia. Remove the carbon from your filter when
using this, or any meds. Please let me know how it goes. -Gwen>>
Goldfish illness
Hello Again,
Sorry to be asking this many questions in a row-
<No problem. We are here to help>
I have read your site and searched for answers but this is one I cannot find
here..
How can you tell if a telescope eye goldfish has Popeye affecting just one eye-
or if it is just a deformity? No redness, no signs of stress or illness.
<Usually there is a redness or other physical signs, but it still is very hard
in telescopes and celestial goldfish. Keep an eye on the fish and monitor it.>
Would a fish with Popeye seem ill?
<Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Popeye typically is caused by water conditions
not being as good as they can be. sometimes it's caused by other bacterial
infections. But, just keep up with the water changes and monitor your fish. I
have seen goldfish with sever pop eye and they were swimming quite happy aside
from the swollen eyes. Other goldfish are sitting on the bottom. >
The fish is acting just fine, and his eye was like this when I got him a week
ago (he is still small), however it appears it has gotten a bit bigger (or I'm
just noticing it more).
<Sometimes your brain can tell you it's looking bigger. My girlfriend was sure
he one telescope had Popeye.. the fishes eye to me never got larger. after a
month of this she finally believed me. But, not to say that the fish isn't
sick. You might want to consider adding a broad based medicine. Mardel company
offers some nice medicines. Since Popeye is bacterial infection you can always
treat with Maracyn.>
Water is PH 7.6-7.8, ammonia .25-.5 (detoxed, values are from the tap), nitrites
0, nitrates 20ppm (tap). I had seen an entry about slightly uneven eyes in a
moor, but this is very noticeable. Thanks again for all your info!
<Just keep an eye on it. Remember the fish you see in the stores are just the
ones that look good enough to sell. If you ever try to breed goldfish you will
see how many of them are not up to breeding/selling standards. I've seen
telescopes born with only one larger eye. And have seen some that have one eye
facing up.. and another down. So, perhaps your fish just has a slight genetic
abnormality. But, please keep a close watch on the fish. Keep up with the
water changes, and treat if the condition worsens.>
-Jo
<Good luck. -Magnus>
What am I doing wrong? Goldfish systems and
losses
Hello
<Hello there.>
I know that you can help me.
<I will sure try!>
I have been trying to start a freshwater tank for some time. I have been doing
everything that the pet store has advised, but I can't get my goldfish to live
longer than a week!
<yikes.. that's not good.>
I've let the water in the new tank run for at least a week before introducing
the fish,
<Try letting the tank run longer. Set the tank up and let it run for at least
two weeks. During this time add a small amount of the flake food to the tank
(with no fish in it), the flake food will break down and feed the bacteria
needed to promote a healthy tank.>
I've treated the water with a conditioner recommended to me, and the 10 gallon
tank is properly aerated.
<A 10 gallon tank is small for goldfish, you will only be able to keep one maybe
two small ones in there. They are very messy fish. You will also need to have
a filtration system on the tank not just something to aerate the water. Small
Hang on back filters like "Whisper" are very inexpensive and are needed on this
tank.>
The goldfish develop white spots and eventually their fins begin to rot. They
get very weak and soon die. I've treated for ich and fin rot, and I've brought a
sick fish to the pet store for advice. Nothing is working and I am getting very
frustrated. I have thrown out all of the rocks and plants and I would like to
try again, but I am scared of losing another fish. please help! Tiffany
<Well Tiffany, was this tank used for anything else in the past? Perhaps it was
exposed to chemicals or something, even cleaning solvents can remain in a tank
that will kill fish. You can always tear down the tank and rinse it out with
very hot water and start fresh. Set up the tank, gravel and decor inside
it. Fill with water, and turn the filters on. Let it run for two weeks at
least, during this time place in a few flakes. Maybe once every three
days. break them up to fine powder, this increases the surface area and they
break down faster. I suggest you also invest in test kits for Ammonia,
Nitrites, and Nitrates. Test you water and when these are at zero parts per
million then it will be safe to put in goldfish. There are many good books on
the topic of starting a freshwater tank, I suggest you going to your local
library and getting some out. Also look over the articles and forum on
WetWebMedia.com, there you are sure to find some great info. Best of luck to
you and your future fish family! -Magnus>
Goldfish Woes
Hi my favorite goldfish Gilbert has this strange thing wrong with his mouth.
Its very swollen and it looks really red almost bloody. And when I look to the
side you can see a big red vein in his mouth. He keeps hiding behind a statue in
the tank. Whats wrong with him. Please help me save him he is my favorite.
<<Hello. This sounds like mouth rot, though goldfish don't normally get this.
Are his fins normal? Any body sores? How big is his tank? Is he still eating?
Are there other fish in there with him? How often do you do partial
waterchanges? Do you test your water? If not, your local fish store should
provide this service, take a jar of your tank water to them to be tested for
ammonia (should be zero), nitrite (should be zero), and nitrates (should be low,
around 20-40ppm). Most fish illnesses are a direct result of these toxins being
too high.. waterchanges performed more frequently are usually required. While
you are at the fish store getting your water tested, ask them for a good
medication for him. An antibiotic for mouth and fin rot should do the trick.
Follow the instructions on the package. And always remove the carbon from your
filter when treating with any medication. -Gwen>>
Goldfish Woes II
My goldfish is a LITTLE bit better. The guy at my fish store said that he
has mouth rot. And to treat him and so im giving him two kinds of medicine.
But he seems to be getting a little better. But he doesn't eat, he doesn't swim,
he kinda just sits there. There are 2 other fish in a ten gallon. I haven't
gotten my water tested but they told to bring the water in and they could do
it. I looked at his mouth and its a round hole (where his mouth is) and he
has a tiny hole the size of a push pin to breath through. I looked at the
bottom and when he breaths it's a big hole. Thank you so much for replying to
me.
Julie
<<Hello Julie, great to hear that you are treating them, and that you have
access to a decent LFS. I hope your goldfish recuperates :) -Gwen>>
Goldie's turning whitie
>Hello i wondered if you could help me.
>>You must be psychic, I wonder, too.
>I have 2 goldfish and mash has recently turned white over past week or
so. They are a pair of really old men I've had them for 5 years now, i guess
it's to do with their age.
>>Five years is less than half their lifespan. However, fancy goldies are known
to change color. It's rather unpredictable when or how it will happen.
>But i would like to know if there is anything i can do to help them, or is it
just a age thing.
>>Not so much an age thing as a genetics and time thing. Not to worry, as long
as the fish is still fat, happy, and healthy. Marina
>they seem happy enough i just worry he's sick. thank you Hannah
Funky Fins? - 06/07/2004
Overnight my Oranda lost most of her tail fins. I thought it was fin rot
although the other Oranda was doing fine and still is as well as Koi all in a
165 gallon tank.
<It is quite possible for only one fish to be affected by an illness; if you get
the sick fish out, that will reduce the chance of spreading. Also, in an
established system, fin rot usually only comes about with a decline in water
quality - have you tested for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? What were your
readings?>
I took out the Oranda and put her in a hospital tank and started observation and
then the ends of the injured fins became black and the dorsal fin has the orange
color of her back going up the fin.
<Sounds perfectly normal. The black edging of the fins is likely the wounds
beginning to heal, though it could be a simple change in color, as well. The
orange color extending into the fin is quite possibly just a natural color
change. If it is reddish, or if you see red lines/veins, it may be damage from
poor water quality - again, test ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate - fix with water
changes if ammonia or nitrite are above zero, or if nitrate is above 20ppm.>
I thought it might be caused by flukes so I treated with Quick Cure-the
formalin/Malachite green combination for 3 days and there is no improvement,
<Whew, yikes! No indication of flukes, here, that I see. If you haven't
already, I would recommend that you discontinue this medication - I don't see
anything in what you've written so far that would indicate parasites at
all. Medicating when unnecessary, or for something that the fish doesn't have,
can cause the fish further problems.>
the black color is still on all the edges of her tail fin.
<Again, this is likely just the site of the wound left by the damage to the
fin. It can also indicate ammonia burns - pay close attention to ammonia,
nitrite, and nitrate, this is crucial. The fish cannot heal well if there is
*any* ammonia or nitrite in the water. Again, do water changes to remove any
ammonia or nitrite.>
I checked the water and the ammonia level is OK because I do water changes.
<By 'ok' I do hope you mean zero.>
What do you think the black coloration is?
<As above, likely the site of injury, or ammonia burns.>
I did search with google first and found other web sites that a few other people
have noticed the same problem with their goldfish
<I did a few google searches, as well, and all the descriptions I found, in
particular one that was very detailed that the person believed to be some
mysterious "black smudge" disease, all were concurrent with ammonia burns, or
natural color changes. I have seen nothing to convince me otherwise.>
but there was no answer on the sites except change water which the people said
they did and no improvement just as I have done.
<More important than just a single simple water change is that you monitor
ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and *maintain* optimum water quality. This is
crucial. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero, nitrate less than 20ppm, and do so
with water changes, not through chemical means.>
Please help with any suggestions. Thank you
<I do hope this has been of some help. If you have any further questions, or
have anything else to add, please feel free to write back. Also, do keep in
mind, a picture is worth a thousand words - if you have a digital pic of your
goldfish's condition, do please send it along in email. Wishing you and your
Oranda well, -Sabrina>
Goldfish losing fins
hi,
i recently bought two fantail fish and both were in the same tank, i have one
fantail who has really long fins, but when i woke up this morning half of his
tail is gone like it had been ripped off. the fish didn't have any problems
before... they actually get along great.. will he be fine? any info would be
great..
< You need to determine if the tail has been ripped off by the other fish,
caught and torn off by catching it on a rock or branch, or actually being eaten
away by bacteria. I would isolate the fish and see if it gets worse. If it does
get worse then you need to treat with furanace to kill the bacteria because you
have tail rot. If it gets no worse then you know either a fish tore it or it got
caught on something. Check the water quality. I am betting that you have tail
rot and that your nitrates are high. A water chane and cleaning the filter will
help too. -Chuck>
thanks
Fawn
Blistered Goldie
<Hi there, Magnus here to help>
I looked over a lot of your stuff, but didn't find anything specific to my
question,
<that's why we are here to help with emails.>
I have a 10 year old goldfish, do not know what breed, it was a feeder I bought
when I first got my aquarium, with in the last 6 months a large white blister
with some red tinge developed on its head above its eyes,
<blister, does it seem to be a bulge deep beneath the skin, or does it seem to
be right on the outer layer of skin? Reason I'm asking you this is that other
goldfish owner have written in with similar descriptions and the conditions
ranged from ich to tumors.>
it popped a few months ago and a second one grew and became very large. There
are some white spots around its head, but they do not resemble sugar, the fish
does dart and seem lethargic at times, any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated, if a picture is desired I can email one, and if it may be better to
go into a pet shop I can easily to that too, Thank You
<a rupture to the blister doesn't sound like ich, I'm afraid that it might have
a skin tumor. But, it's hard to say without actually seeing the fish. It might
have a secondary fungus infection around the area which could explain the spots
after it "popped". I suggest you look at some of the pictures and links at
http://www.goldfishinfo.com/ they have some good photos and
suggestions. I would at least be treating with a broad based anti-biotic to make
sure the fish doesn't get sick from secondary infections around the head area.
Many of the medicines from Mardel Company have worked very nicely on my
goldfish.>
Tessa Miller
<Good luck, and hopefully that link will offer some help to you. -Magnus>
The Lowdown on Dropsy - 05/31/2004
Hi, my name is Julie.
<Hi, Julie, Sabrina here, today.>
I need some advice please... feel blessed having owned my four goldfish
(1fantail, 1 blue lionhead, 2 x black mores) for nearly five years with no
disease problems.
<Wonderful.>
I went to town with my daughter to buy some new weed,
<Uhm, I assume you mean plants - for the goldfish - yes? Kudos for giving the
goldies their greens.>
and she struck up a friendship with a very cheeky speckled lionhead in the store
which I consequently purchased ($20). First problem was all my fish developed
ich within a week of purchase which I treated successfully.
<Whew. Please consider employing a quarantine tank for new arrivals!>
It's now a couple of weeks later and I have just spent three days nursing
'chops' (the new fish) until his death this morning.
<Oh, so sorry to hear that.>
Having read a zillion web pages on goldfish diseases it was very apparent to me
yesterday that 'chops' had Dropsy.
<I always feel like a broken record for this, but - dropsy is not an
illness. It is a symptom of illness, just like sneezing is. You sneeze, maybe
you're allergic to something, maybe you have the flu, whatever - but the
sneezing is just a symptom of it. Dropsy is similar. There are a number of
bacterial illnesses that afflict the liver or kidneys that cause dropsical
conditions, but even simple constipation can make a fish bloat up. Allergies
can cause similar results, too. Though, all boiled down, if its scales were
sticking out, pinecone-fashion, it is likely that he had a bacterial infection.>
I had noticed his scales sticking out about two weeks ago - it looked like he
had goosebumps, but he seemed quite ok up until a few days ago when he became
very subdued, scales sticking out. I isolated him, added appropriate salt and
he did eat some green peas but as per general advice death was swift.
<Good job on isolating him. I'm sorry he didn't make it, but at least don't
beat yourself up about it; fish seldom survive once you see their scales
sticking out like that. If caught early, sometimes treating with antibiotics in
food can help, but not always even then.>
My problem being - now I'm very anxious about my fish. My blue lionhead has
been darting around the tank which is unusual for him, banging into things and
one of my black mores has his face in the stones, tail up doing very little.
<Have you tested ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? Ammonia and nitrite should be
zero - anything above that should be considered toxic. After medicating for
ich, I'm sure your tank is going through a cycle, and you'll need to do water
changes - perhaps even up to 50% every day - to keep ammonia and nitrite at
zero. I would hazard a guess that this is why your fish are stressing.>
Is there anything preventative that I can do before symptoms appear?
<Some hefty water changes will not hurt, that's for sure. Be sure to vacuum the
gravel well, get any decaying material out of there, and monitor your water
conditions closely. Good husbandry is the best preventative of disease.>
Is Dropsy contagious???
<Well, the bacteria that cause dropsical conditions can be, yes; if you removed
the fish from the tank before he died (you said you isolated him, I assume you
mean in a seperate tank?), that would have significantly decreased the
possibility of the illness spreading.>
Is there a gestation period for Dropsy???
<The infections that cause this symptom can be very, very long and slow in
development. It could take a very long time to surface. If the remaining fish
are kept healthy and in healthy conditions (test water, as mentioned above),
they should not contract it.>
Many thanks for your help, Julie
<Any time, Julie. My fingers are crossed for your fishums. -Sabrina>
Goldfish head rot
Hi,
The head of the goldfish having a small cut of roughly 10cm <2.54 cm =1 inch, 4
inch cut?> and is start
to rot. What can i do to prevent it to get worst and cure it?
< Service the filter and do a 30% water change. The parasitic bacteria thrive in
water high in nitrogenous wastes. It also stress the fish and makes them more
susceptible to diseases. Isolate the fish in a separate quarantine tank and
treat with Kanamycin or furanace until cured as per the directions on the
package.-Chuck>
Thank a lot!
Best Wishes
Chwee Leong
Goldfish head rot - II
Hi,
The head of the goldfish having a small cut of roughly 10cm and is start to rot.
What can i do to prevent it to get worst and cure it?
< Cuts and scrapes on fish should be treated in a separate isolation tank.
Kanamycin and furanace work well on general bacteria problems. Treat the water
with a conditioner with wound control in it.-Chuck>
Thank a lot!
Best Wishes
Chwee Leong
Fish laying on the bottom all day
Hi Wet Web Media crew,
I have been and read your useful site in hope of some answers to my fish's
mysterious illness. I have a beautiful orange fantail and his name is Quasar. He
has been with us for a year, and is living with a red cap in a 26 litre tank
(6.85 gallons) We have been doing exactly the same thing all this time -
changing water every two weeks, feeding them frozen (then defrosted) brine
shrimp in the morning and 2 floating pellets each for dinner. They
have also have a plant, which they did not eat in there. Quasar is resting
on the bottom of the tank all day, and only comes up for food. His lower tail
looks a bit split and stringy, which we suspected is fin rot, though there is no
sign of an infection. This behaviour and the tail thing happened on Friday. The
aquarium shop said it may be because he is laying on the bottom, and bacteria is
able to attack his tail more readily. We have treated him with MelaFix (on
Sunday), a tea tree derived 'natural' medicine that helps to cure fin rot,
whether it is or not - I'm not convinced. The carbon has been removed whilst
treatment is taking place. Our water was tested on the weekend, and
everything is fine. A water change has been made and that has tested fine too.
The red cap seems unaffected by this, though hovers around his friend to give
him support. My fish seem to recognise food time, when I turn off the pump
so their food doesn't go everywhere, and the spread is minimal. Quasar then
comes up for food,( which I have minimized for him), and swims around hunting
for more, then settles back down to rest, when the pump is turned back on (a
sign feeding is over). This may be unrelated, but we have noticed his vision
seems to have deteriorated over the last month as he seems to miss sea monkeys
as they fall almost in front of him, and he seems to be guided by smell to eat
them. Short sighted like his owners. He is quite young still, body length 5cm,
and he used to be so efficient and sharp. We wonder if he has injured himself,
as there is a small brown mole like mark that is seen on the top of his head
through his translucent skin. So here are as many facts as possible. Aquarium
workers may know some, but I am confused, and their answers are inconclusive.
Could he be constipated. We have replaced the plant he doesn't eat with one he
does yesterday (Sunday). As you can tell, we love him very very much.
Please shed some light on his mystery illness, and give us some hope for his
fighting chance. He is strong and healthy when he does swim and the most lovable
fish.
< You fish sounds like it may have come down with an internal swim bladder
infection. The swim bladder helps the fish keep its buoyancy. When it becomes
infected the fish sometimes lose this ability and rest on the bottom as they try
and swim around they seem to bump into every thing. They often injure themselves
as they move around and get bruised up an torn fins. I would put him in a
breeder net for now to minimize the physical damage and treat with metronidazole
for the internal infection. This medication may affect the good bacteria so
check for ammonia. Do not feed during the treatment.-Chuck>
Please answer soon.
Vonda, from Melbourne.
Goldfish losing scales and frantic swimming
My 8" Shubunkin and 3" goldfish were in my garden pond for about a month
where they absolutely thrived and grew.
Worried about the summer heat I bought a 30 gallon aquarium with 2 Top Fin
filters and added a bubble stone strip.
While the Shubunkin was in the pond I noticed it was swimming slightly on its
side occasionally and the goldfish kept rubbing the sides of the Shubunkin and
following it around constantly. At that time I thought it was a mating
procedure, but now I'm not so sure.
Since the transfer (2 weeks ago) the Shubunkin has gotten worse. It is loosing
scales, swimming more on its side, and swims around the tank frantically as if
it is trying to get out.
My 3" goldfish continues to rub the sides of the Shubunkin and follow it around
constantly.
My first thought was the goldfish was rubbing the scales off the Shubunkin, but
the scale loss is mostly on the top at the sides.
Is there something I am doing wrong? Do you think my Shubunkin is ill? If so,
what can I do to save her? I'm REALLY worried that I'm going to loose her.
I did a 1/2 water change today and still can not seem to keep my water clear. I
have cleaned, sterilized sand in the bottom instead of gravel because I was told
that it was easier to keep a tank clean with sand. Should I switch to gravel or
is the sand okay?
Please, please, help!
< Goldfish are messy feeders. The excess food and fish waste generates ammonia.
Ammonia creates grey cloudy water that stinks. It is very toxic to fish. If it
does not kill them outright then it stresses them to a point that they come down
with all kinds of weird bacteria problems like what you are encountering now. By
sterilizing the sand you have killed off all the good bacteria needed to convert
the deadly ammonia to less toxic nitrite and then to even less toxic nitrate.
First clean the filter. Do not feed the fish. Get an ammonia test kit and get
the ammonia under control by water changes or by chemicals that will absorb it.
Remove any carbon and treat the tank with Kanamycin. When the fish is cured you
can start feeding again but check the water for ammonia and treat accordingly
until the tank gets its nitrifying bacteria going.-Chuck>
Donna
Goldfish losing scales and frantic swimming - II
Thank you so much, Chuck!
I do so much appreciate your help! What kind of test kit should I buy?
< If your local fish store does water testing then I would ask them for a
recommendation because they are familiar with the test kits they use and can
answer your questions as far as interpreting the results.>
How often should I test the water and what are acceptable levels?
< Zero ammonia and zero nitrites. The nitrates should be no higher than 25 ppm.
If ammonia/nitrate/nitrite levels are too high will a water change be sufficient
or should I add something to the tank to lower them?
< Ammonia and nitrites should be controlled with good nitrifying bacteria. The
bacteria live in the sand, on a BioWheel or on a wet dry filter tray. Check the
levels first and try the water changes and see what happens. If the levels are
still too high then we need to look at other things. I try not to add chemicals
if possible. This creates a wide variation in water chemistry that fish don't
like.>
How often do I treat the tank with Kanamycin?
<This is a powerful antibiotic and should not be overused. WE need to build up
the fishes resistance to disease first with clean water. The bad bacteria use
the nitrogen to help them feed on your fish. Follow the directions on the
bottle. If the fish are still sick after two treatments then we are on the wrong
track and need to make adjustments. I do not feed the fish the whole time
they are being treated?
< The treatments should only last a few days. Fish can easily go for a week
without eating.>
Should I remove the fish that are not ill before treatment?
< I would remove the sick fish to an isolation tank and then clean up the main
tank.>
If I introduce the Kanamycin to the tank will it kill off good bacteria as well
as bad?
< Some medications affect the good bacteria in different ways. I am afraid that
this one will definitely kill off some if not all the good bacteria.>
If so, should I add something to the tank to replace the natural flora back to
the tank?.
< Before treatment I would remove some of the sand and keep it wet. After the
treatment is over you could put the old sand back in with the good bacteria in
it to reintroduce it to the tank.>
So many questions, I know. But I have so much to learn. This is my first
aquarium and I do, so much, want healthy happy fish.
< I would recommend that you get a general aquarium book for some future
reference. The ones from Barrons are usually pretty good and not expensive. Once
you have gone through it then you will have a better understanding of how an
aquarium really functions and you will have fewer problems. -Chuck>
< Goldfish are messy feeders. The excess food and fish waste generates ammonia.
Ammonia creates grey cloudy water that stinks. It is very toxic to fish. If it
does not kill them outright then it stresses them to a point that they come down
with all kinds of weird bacteria problems like what you are encountering now. By
sterilizing the sand you have killed off all the good bacteria needed to convert
the deadly ammonia to less toxic nitrite and then to even less toxic nitrate.
First clean the filter. Do not feed the fish. Get an ammonia test kit and get
the ammonia under control by water changes or by chemicals that will absorb it.
Remove any carbon and treat the tank with Kanamycin. When the fish is cured you
can start feeding again but check the water for ammonia and treat accordingly
until the tank gets its nitrifying bacteria going.-Chuck>
Swollen Shubunkin
Hi I have a goldfish and a shubunkin in a 10 gallon tank with an under
gravel filter. They are about 9 years old, and until now have never had any
problems. They are fed on flake food, aquarium weeds and thawed bloodworms/brine
shrimps/etc.
During the last few weeks the shubunkin has become bloated, slightly more on the
right side than the left. At first I convinced myself it was the colour (it is
partly black on one side) that made it look lopsided. I have occasionally
thought that in the past, but suddenly, about 10 days ago, it got very much
worse. It is still feeding normally, swimming normally despite its shape, and is
its usual cheerful self. No scales are sticking up, there is no redness, its
fins are fine and the goldfish is not hounding it. I wondered if it could be:
a. egg bound (I don't know if it is a female)
b. constipation, although I wouldn't be so cheerful if I were that constipated!
c. parasites, but there's nothing visible externally, and I did a general
parasite treatment when I first suspected a problem
d. dropsy, although no scales are raised,
e. a tumour (but would it be behaving normally with a tumour that big?) or
f. something completely different.
Can you suggest anything? I'd like to anything I reasonably can for it! Eliza.
<<Dear Eliza; Please read any FAQ's you can find here that deal with goldfish. I
will repeat what I tell everyone who has goldfish in too small a tank: test your
water for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Ammonia should be zero, nitrites
should be zero, nitrates should be low, say between 20-40ppm. Higher means doing
water changes until it reaches that reading. Vacuum and do twice-weekly partial
water changes. Please let me know your water test results. Two goldfish in a 10g
for nine years means these fish are stunted, unless you have been doing daily
50% water changes... Goldfish require at LEAST 10g per fish in order to grow to
their full adult size: 12 inches long for shubunkins, and baseball-sized for
fancies. They may not survive much longer unless you move them into a larger
tank and improve the water quality. -Gwen>>
Swollen Shubunkin II
Hi Gwen
Sorry - I got the tank size wrong. It's 24x12x15, so it's still too small but
not that bad! I think that makes it somewhere between 15 and 18 gallons,
allowing for gravel and filter which take up about 2.5 inches. There's not
much in it apart from some plastic plants, fresh weeds which they eat, and 2
smallish, bottomless pots which they seem to like sleeping
in. Having read your other advice sections, I have given them each the
middles of a couple of small peas (thawed and squashed) and some Epsom salts.
There is some Aqualibrium in the tank, about 1g per litre. Bearing this in mind,
how much Epsom salt can I use? I have erred on the side of caution, I hope, with
1.5 tablespoons so far. I found some pea-coloured poos; I think they came from
the goldfish but there was a bit of something stringy from the shubunkin as
well, so something's moving! I have tested occasionally for nitrites, and
never had a problem. The testing kit is ancient now, so I don't trust it any
more. I assumed that if nitrites were OK, and the fish were OK, and the tank was
clean, things couldn't be too far out - they're hardly exotic, after all! I also
use Safe Guard and Safe Water. What suitable (i.e. hardy, attractive and
not too big) cold water fish would you recommend for a tank of this size?
If I were to go up to a 30x12x16 tank (there's no space for anything bigger), I
think the pump would cope, but what about the filter? Does it
have to be the same size as the tank floor, or could I get away with using the
same one - 6 inches short? Eliza
<<Dear Eliza, the first thing I need to mention is that nitrites should always
be zero, as I already mentioned. Because they are being converted to nitrates.
You really need to test for NITRATES in your tank water in order to know the
level of fish waste. You should prolly buy a new test kit, and start using it to
ascertain how often to do water changes. Keep the nitrate level at
20-40ppm...higher means water changes! Your tank sounds like it could easily
house some white clouds, platies, maybe some nice tetras if you add a heater.
Move your goldfish into a 33g or 40g, they will be happy there for a while.
Water testing will let you know when they are too big for a tank. Also, be
careful with the undergravel filter. They do require being maintained properly.
That means tearing the damn tank down and cleaning beneath the filter plates
every 3-6 months. A pain to do, perhaps your budget will allow you to purchase
an HOB filter such as an AquaClear, Penguin or Whisper. Easier to maintain by a
long shot, with the added bonus that you can change out carbon and cartridges in
seconds. You should look into that. IF you decide to remove your undergravel
filter, or clean it, PLEASE re-email me regarding precautions to follow so your
fish survive the ordeal. UG filters can harbor some nasty stuff. Removing the
fish while you clean the tank may be in order. I can explain the why's and how's
if you need me to.. -Gwen>>
Sick Goldfish
I have had Lloyd the comet goldfish for almost 8 months now. He has always
been healthy, and I have never had any problems out of him. But just three days
ago, I discovered that a lump has formed on his side. In fact, it projects about
1/2 cm from his body. It is right behind his left gill. The lump is the same
color as his body, and he doesn't seem to experience any pain from it. He is in
a ten gallon aquarium with three other comets, one angelfish, one Betta, and two
snails. They all get along well and I have never ran into any problems until
now. Just yesterday, the lump began to put a white, pasty discharge into the
water>Will you please email me back information about what you may speculate is
wrong with Lloyd. I am very worried about him, and i would deeply appreciate any
information about his condition. He is my favorite fish, because he offers the
most personality to the aquarium. I would hate to loose him Stefanie R. Baker
Why aren't the other fish getting lumps, and should I treat them? What can cure
this?
<<Dear Stephanie, just like us, sometimes I can catch a cold, but you
won't...it's about each fishes' resistance level to disease, and that is
directly related to stress. The weakest fish get sick first. And, first thing is
that a ten gallon tank is too small for all of these fish species. The goldfish
should have a lot more space (if you test your water for ammonia, nitrite and
nitrate, you will see how quickly the water becomes polluted) The angelfish
should have a HEATER and a larger tank, their fins become stunted when kept in
too-small tanks. The only fish you own that can live in that 10g for any amount
of time is the Betta. This lump is probably just the beginning of any number of
diseases that will affect your fish if you continue to keep them in this tiny
tank. At any rate, weekly water changes are required, along with some dosing
with Melafix to help control whichever bacteria being released into the tank
from the goldfish's pasty discharge. Please test your water for the above
things! Let me know what your test results are. -Gwen>>
Sick Goldfish
I wrote to you a few months ago about a sick fantail(?) goldfish who had
been upside down for months. Unfortunately, he died a few days later. His
tankmate (Blacklip) seemed ok, so after his death, I disinfected the whole tank
and filters and basically started over. The biofilter finally straightened out
after about a month or so. During the cycling process, I changed the water for
Blacklip twice a day to keep the water quality halfway decent. She never seemed
stressed out during this time. Shortly after the water was ok, she developed
these strange bumps on her pectoral and pelvic fins. They are sort of pinkish in
color and look almost like warts. She also has some flat white spots on her
dorsal and caudal fins. She has had them for months now (since February), but
they don’t seem to bother her. She is eating fine, but she does occasionally
dart around the tank and swim sideways close to the bottom--scratching??
She lives in a 20 gallon long tank with a canister filter that pumps 180
gallons/hour and an airstone. I had not really had any water quality problems
for years and siphon the gravel and change the water at least once per month,
checking water quality (ammonia, nitrites, and pH) weekly between water changes
just to make sure everything’s ok. I also rinse the filters weekly. The water
quality is fine right now--no ammonia, nitrites, pH 7.3 or so. Normally, she
eats flake food, some floating and sinking pellets, peas and occasionally some
spinach (spinach usually 3X/week). She has been eating several thawed peas
(pulled out of their skins) each night in addition to flake and pellets for a
couple years now.
<<HELLO. WHAT DO YOUR NITRATES MEASURE? The spots on her fins sound like
Lymphocystis, a viral disease caused by stress. Most likely due to bad water
quality.>>
When the spots first appeared, I tried adding salt to the water (in February),
about 1 tablespoon/ gallon. After about a month and no change, I slowly
eliminated the salt by many water changes. Around the end of February, she
started to develop a red spot on her back at the base of her dorsal fin and also
more wart-like bumps on her dorsal fin. I treated with Kanacyn and that cleared
up the red spot, but the wart-like bumps stayed the same. A few weeks later, the
red spots returned, so I treated with Maracyn-two, Maroxy, and Coppersafe by
Mardel. Again, the red spots disappeared, the wart-like bumps did seem to get a
little smaller this time. I kept the Coppersafe in the water a few weeks longer,
until the wart-like bumps came back just as before. Then I figured it wasn’t
doing much, so with water changes, it, too was removed. A few days later, again,
the red spots returned. I have noticed that the spots and bumps seem to come and
go. At first, I thought they disappeared with many water changes, but I’m not so
sure. Even without water changes, they seem to come and go. The wart-like bumps
never disappear entirely, but they do seem to get smaller when the red spots
disappear. The red spots completely disappear for a few days and then they come
back for several more days than they were gone. Over the last few weeks, she has
developed more of the red spots--on the side of her face and some just under her
operculum. These spots come and go as well. I wonder if this could mean some
type of parasites??? If they go through a cyst stage the spots are evident and
when they "hatch’ the spots go away for a few days or so until the cycle starts
over. She never seems stressed at all or breathes fast (her gills look fine as
far as I can tell). I borrowed a digital camera and got some pictures of her
wart-like bumps (on her anal fins) and some of the red spots--on her face and
dorsal fin. The pictures aren’t great, but I’m hoping they will help with a
diagnosis. I really don’t know what to try next--salt and copper seemed to have
no effect. I have also looked at some of the "junk" siphoned out of her gravel
and saw what could be some kind of fluke (looks like a worm with attachment
hooks at one end and a big mouth at the other end. There are also tons of little
round creatures darting all around--fluke larval stages???), but I’m no
expert--just comparing to pictures in an aquarium book I have. Plus, I looked at
the "junk" in my African frog tank and those same worm-like creatures are there,
too. Maybe they are just insect larvae. According to some of my books, the bumps
could also be Epistylis.
I should also mention, occasionally, she seems to have trouble keeping her tail
down--it will float up and she will flip over for a second and then dart around
the tank--possible internal infection associated with parasites or just gulping
too much air ?? She does also occasionally swim around the top of the tank and
gulps air. When she does this, she looks like she is just playing, not gasping
for air or stressed.
I haven’t treated her with anything for about six weeks or so. I’m thinking of
trying either Rid-Ich by Kordon or Parasite Clear by Jungle Labs or maybe Clout
by Aquarium Products. There are so many medicines out there. I would appreciate
any suggestions--I hate to just keep trying different medicines, not really
knowing what the problem is.
<<Your problem is bad water quality. Please test your NITRATES>>
Lastly, how would she have gotten parasites or whatever ? I had her and the
other goldfish in the same aquarium for three years with no problems until last
September when her mate got sick. Has she always had them and all of a sudden
they decided to attack? Thanks for reading this rather lengthy note and I
appreciate any suggestions you might have. I really enjoy your website--it’s
very informative.
Georgi
<<Georgi; PLEASE TEST FOR NITRATES. Ammonia and nitrite should be zero in any
established tank, because they are turned into NITRATES. Please test your
nitrate level. Please do MANY more frequent partial water changes, and vacuum
the tank WEEKLY. Nitrates should be kept around 20ppm. Higher means doing many
water changes to lower it. Your goldfish needs weekly water changes or she may
not recover from the next round of whatever disease hits her. Please stop adding
medications and do some water changes. I hope your fish recovers. -Gwen>>
Goldfish laying eggs
Greetings. Have spent hours trying to learn about goldfish laying
eggs...couldn't find what I wanted...so am writing. Thank you in advance. We
have 4 goldfish in a 25 gallon tank. Water is great, they are healthy. The
bubble-cheeked fish has been hanging upside down in a plastic plant for days. I
do not believe she has eaten...barely moves at all. Is she laying eggs? What the
heck should we do? Will the bigger, more aggressive Molly bother her/them?
Please respond if you can...I'll try the library in the meantime.
Thanks again!
< Unfortunately I don't think your goldfish is laying eggs. When fish are
stressed from things like poor water quality, old food or too high a temp, then
their resistance to disease starts to break down. Some of these break downs
occur externally, but many of the break downs occur internally. I am afraid your
goldfish has a case of bloat/dropsy. It has an internal pocket of gas that won't
let it swim normally and so you find it swimming oddly and caught in the
floating plants. I would recommend treating the fish with metronidazole with a
30% water change every other day untill the fish begins to eat again. If you
medicate the main tank then you will need to watch for ammonia spikes because
the good bacteria that break down the fish waste may be affected.-Chuck>
Cindy
Another Sick Goldfish!
Dear Bob Fenner,
Hello. I have a question concerning my goldfish. I have a Bubble-eye goldfish
and recently (maybe about 1 or 2 days now) he has had very veiny bubbles. Also,
his scales by his back fin and his back fin have blood on them. I was
wondering if you knew anyway I can help it.
Thank you for your time.
<Sounds like a bacteria infection. Isolate your fish in a separate tank and
treat with furanace as per the directions on the package. Watch the water
changes in the future. Tanks that are high in nitrogenous wastes tend to lead to
weak fish an bacteria infections. Don't treat in the main tank or the medicine
can kill the "good" bacteria that help break down the waste products.-Chuck>
Black Moor with Cloudy Eye
I have a black moor goldfish and one of her eyes appears to be deflated, no
abnormal behaviors have been observed. The entire eye is cloudy. Is there
anything that we can do to help heal the eye.
Thanks, Colleen
<<Dear Colleen, yes, test your tank to make sure your water quality is
excellent: no ammonia, no nitrite, low nitrates (20ppm) and add a teaspoon of
salt per three gallons of water, gradually. Dissolve the salt before you add it
to the tank. The cloudiness might go away on its own after a few days, if it was
caused by rough handling or some other external injury. If it doesn't begin to
show signs of clearing up after three or four days, you may need to treat her
with a stronger medication. Check your LFS to see what they have in stock for
bacterial eye infections. Don't forget to test your water! -Gwen>>
Goldfish weird behavior
I have a goldfish that's about a year old now and for the last month and a
half has been floating at the bottom of the tank on its right side. It does
occasionally swim around to one side or the other, and it will eat as long as I
drop down some sinking food. But, whenever I try to push it back upright, it
just sinks back down to laying on its side. I think its also affecting the other
fish because they no longer swim around...they just kind of float there. I've
separated the fish and put it in a 'hospital' tank and gave it meds for both a
bacterial and fungal infection (not at the same time) and neither did anything
to improve the condition. The best way to describe it is its as if the fish had
a stroke. and its one side is just not working. its breathing normally but none
of the fins on the right side seem to move (then again.. could be cause its
laying on em). Any ideas?
< Service the filter and change 30% of the water. That should get something
moving . If not. Check the ammonia (0ppm), nitrite(0ppm) and nitrate(<25ppm)
levels. If all of these check out then watch the amount of food you are giving
your fish. Give them only enough that they will eat it all in a couple of
minutes. Vacuum the excess out. If they are not eating then they have an
internal problem and need to be treated. Use metronidazole at 250 mg per 10
gallons of water with a 30% water change every other day until they are eating.
If the tank is sick then the medications will not help or be effective on the
fish.-Chuck>
Thanks!!
Christie
Sick black moor
Hi, I purchased a black moor (my first fish) just under two weeks ago. I
noticed white spot about three days ago so I've put some Interpret Anti-White
Spot plus in the tank (32 liter bowl) but it doesn't seem to have done any good
so far.
< Ich can only be killed when it is in the free swimming stage away from the
host. It takes three or four days depending on the temp.>
Also, this morning I have noticed his eyes seem to have some sort of fungus
around them, white and fluffy. he looks really sorry for himself and spends a
lot of time 'resting' near the bottom of the tank. He also does a lot of
floating around at weird angles, what can I do ? Thanks for your help.
< Follow the directions on the bottle and do a 30% water change every other day.
Use a water conditioner with a slime additive too. Make sure there is no carbon
in the filter because it will remove the medication. The slime you see may be a
natural response from the fish to build up a slime coat. Watch for ammonia
spikes because the medication may affect the good bacteria.-Chuck>
Pauline
2 very sick Orandas
Hi, I'm hoping you could help me out with this problem im having with my
Orandas i had 3 Orandas in my 20 gal tank i know stretching the rule my water
params are ammonia 0,nitrite 0,ph 7.2 one of my blue Orandas passed away the
other day it came on all of a sudden in the morning he was stuck in the plant
and his fins and tail were frayed so i read the charts on my Mardel products and
figured out it was dropsy? so i picked up some Maracyn two and treated him in
the hospital tank he lasted only an hour, so i checked on the other blue Oranda
and my black Oranda he was very swollen and pine Coney looking so i treated with
the Maracyn and 1/8 teas. of Epsom's salt per 5 gal. also have been feeding them
tetra "anti-bacteria" medicated food they eat it fine but, so Monday is there
last treatment and there still the same way sluggish, some activity but i read
on my Mardel instructions use with copper safe, should i have used that do i
need to treat another 5 days with the Maracyn 2 & copper safe? i
also was thinking of a salt dip but there stressed already and my water is very
cloudy but i didn't want to do a partial water change because of the meds.
please help. thanks ~Shauna~
< In treating this disease you need to realize that it is brought on by stress.
Either the wrong food ,dirty water, temp too high, etc... I would recommend that
you service the filter and do a 30% water change for starters. Treat with 250 mg
of metronidazole per 10 gallons of water. Remove any carbon in the filter. Add
the salt just like you have been doing. Repeat the water changes and the
medication every other day. Treat with an ich cure too. It seems to make the
cure faster. The antibacterial food is fine if they are eating. See if the
antibacterial food has the metronidazole in it. They make two different kinds
but only one has the Met. in it. These medications may have an affect on the
good bacteria in the tank so watch for ammonia spikes. This disease seems to
affect algae eating cichlids too and is called bloat.-Chuck>
Re: 2 very sick Orandas 2
thank you for the reply but my black Oranda is deteriorating now scales
coming off ragged fins i keep adding the salt and took my carbon out of the
filter and used TriSulfa for now because the guy at the fish store suspected
they may be suffocating by to much aqua plus so i did a 3 rd of a water change
and doing the meds but i think today is my fishies last day from how the
patterns are going
< I suspect that the medications have killed off all the good bacteria in your
tank and the ammonia is building up and now burning your fishes gills and flesh.
Get some Kent ammonia de-tox now. Stop medicating! Continue with the water
changes at about 30% per day. Sounds like your tank may be crashing.( the pH has
dropped dramatically.) Wait and see what happens.-Chuck>
Goldfish changing color?
I had 2 gold fish in a 30 gallon tank, they seemed to have been doing well,
eating well, usually just flake and pellet food, then NEMO (daughters choice)
started getting black spots all over usually small to medium spots, i thought
maybe he was just changing color, but then it seems his gill area was turning a
little red in color.. it just looked as if he was deteriorating. he has since
passed on. does this sound like anything familiar to you? I have been trying to
do my best with these fish but apparently i didn't
< It sounds like ammonia burn. If the water builds up too much waste from
overfeeding or a lack of water changes then the elevated waste levels become
breeding grounds for disease. Check on the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels.
If there are any readings of ammonia or nitrite then it stress the fish and they
get sick. The nitrates should be less than 25 ppm. Keep us in mine next
time and we will get you through it. -Chuck>
Sick fantail
Dear WWM crew,
My fantail is sick. He was lying on the bottom, not moving very much and not
going after food as usual. I think it could be swim bladder disease, but I'm not
sure. Constipation? Now he is just floating around. I think it may be too late.
I gave him floating flakes and more recently some bloodworms, which also
floated. Hence the swim bladder disease conclusion. Any advice/medication
or is it too late? I isolated him in a shallow tank. All water chemistry is
good.
Thanks for your help
< Wow, It seems like we have gotten a lot of questions on this problem lately.
Two common problems occur when the water quality declines and fish get either
overfed or fed the wrong foods. If your fish is floating it usually means that a
bacterial infection that has infected the gut. As the bacteria increase they
produce gas and this causes the fish to bloat and float to the surface. The
other problem is when the disease attracts the swim bladder and the fish cannot
get up off the bottom of the tank because it is no longer buoyant. It is
probably too late but you can try metronidazole according to the directions on
the package. A 30% water change every other day and a teaspoon of rock salt per
5 gallons of water might help too.-Chuck>
Scott
Goldfish Illness - Need Help
Hi,
I have a goldfish, his name is 'The Rock' who for the last 4 or five days hasn't
been swimming around at all. He just lays on he's left side most of the time
motionless except for breathing. I removed him from the tank and kept him on his
own for the past 3 days, I cleaned the water each day and I also added some
Epsom salts to the water as I'd read on some of the other advice given on your
FAQs page. The Epsom salts seemed to stimulate him a little, for the first while
and he seemed to have much more movement with his front fins, however still his
top fin and two underneath rear fins don't appear to be fanned out as much as
healthy fish. When I say much more movement, it is in spurts, It's like he tries
like crazy to swim, makes a very small distance and then is to tired to keep
going and sinks to the bottom again on his side. My goldfish is spending all
it's time at the bottom by the way. I didn't feed it for 2 days, then just gave
a very small amount of peas and broccoli, he also doesn't seem that interested
in eating.
To help I have attached some photographs I'm hoping you may be able to suggest
what I can do to help him get better.
< Sounds like his swim bladder has become infected and lost all of his buoyancy.
Without it he becomes too tired to swim and stays on the bottom, too tired to
move. Usually fish stressed by a history of poor water quality develop these
weird internal conditions. I don't think you fish can be saved. Some things you
can try, cool clean water can't hurt. The salt will help too. In an isolation
tank you could try a shotgun technique with a broad spectrum antibiotic like
Kanamycin. The medicine will probably cost more than the fish is worth though.
Good luck.-Chuck>
Fred Leduc
Another Sick Goldie
Hello - I was hoping you could help as one of my goldfish seems to have
taken ill. I noticed him swimming a bit strangely a couple of weeks ago - he
seemed to be making jerky movements instead of swimming smoothly - and thought
it might be a swim bladder problem so changed his food to a solid, sinkable type
instead of a floating one. Also I fed him some defrosted shelled peas. There are
2 goldfish in the tank and the other one seems fine. Both are less than a year
old. Anyway he seems to have got worse as now he is spending most of the time
laying down in an ornamental cave that's in the tank, and when he does come out
(quite seldom) he is still doing the jerky swimming thing. He doesn't even come
out when I put food in the tank, although I have seen him eating a little bit
today. I've noticed his tail seems bent in a funny way where it connects to his
body (sorry - don't know any technical terms) and was wondering whether that
might be something to do with it? It could be a bit swollen compared to normal
but I cant really tell. I cant see any abnormal colouring anywhere on him or any
other signs of damage. What do you think the problem could be and what
should I do about it? Any advice would be very gratefully received.
Katy Donnelly
< I think you are correct in your assessment of your fishes problem. Usually a
history of poor water quality is at least partially responsible for these weird
internal problems. These are very difficult to successfully treat. Try cool,
clean water with some rock salt and a shotgun treatment of Kanamycin. I think
you fish will not get any better but may stabilize after treatment.-Chuck>
Fantail's not so Fantastic
I have been searching the web to find out what may be wrong with my fantail
and have not identified it. The fish has a small white protrusion on its side.
There is no redness on the fish and the one bump is just white. Seems to be
eating and swimming fine. The other goldfish all appear to be ok. No new fish,
plants, etc recently. No change in diet. I have put the fish in a hospital tank
(4 gallons). Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks for any info you can give me. I've
had this fish about 4 years. Peg
<Could be a scratch that has become infected and already healed over. Watch for
fungus and treat if needed. If there are no other problems then I would put it
back in a couple of weeks.-Chuck>
|
|