Oranda Lost Both Eyes! Please Help!!   4/21/06
Dear Wet Web Crew,
<Adrienne>
I am writing you on behalf of my friend whose Oranda lost both eyes. She said she came home and they were both gone, when just the day before he had
both of them. She says he is acting okay, however seems disoriented and swimming erratically. He lives in a tank with 4 other Orandas and one small
pleco and one small Cory. The Orandas range from about 3-4 inches each. He is one of the larger ones. She has never before seen any of the goldfish act
aggressive. She has also never seen the pleco mess with the goldies. She says the pleco keeps to himself and has never bothered any of them.
<Perhaps at night... or something sharp in the tank...?>
The tank only has gravel, water, bubble bar, and Eclipse filter; no plants or décor. Do you think another tankmate did this? I recommended she add Melafix, but
what else should she do?
<Nothing>
And what kind of life will he have now that he has no eyes?
<Can likely still locate food through "taste" sense...>
  I have heard of this sort of thing happening to telescope eyes and moors, but not Orandas. And it is so strange he lost both eyes at once. This is very disturbing. Please help!!
Adrienne N. Duque
<Not much "to do"... Bob Fenner>

Black Moor Goldfish dis., env.    4/20/06
Hello,
   <Howdy>
  I'm in the UK
<So are some of the Crew>
but your site seems pretty good so I'm wondering if you can help me with my Black Moor Goldfish (Delroy). After researching fishkeeping thoroughly over several months I took the plunge and set up my first aquarium 8 weeks ago. It's a 45 gallon tank with a Fluval filter, air bubbles, natural plants, bog wood and rocks.    
  I've slowly been introducing my fish, carefully checking the water quality, establishing what I hope is a happy and healthy environment for my new friends. I added my fourth fish two weeks ago. Last Tuesday my first fish, Pug, mysteriously died. He had been acting completely normally, swimming fine, eating fine, a very happy Pug I thought. After immediately checking water conditions and inspecting Pug's littly body I could find no outward signs of disease, infection or injury. To be on the safe side I asked my local aquatic centre (I'm very lucky to have a dedicated centre near my home) who tested  the water further and found it to be perfect. They concluded that Pug was probably a weak fish, I had been unlucky and that as long as I kept an eye on the others I should be fine.
   <Some aspects of water quality can/do change quickly...>
  I've had my face glued to the tank for a week and all seemed fine until yesterday Delroy began to try biting the other two fish (a red and white Oranda - Fluval, and a Fantail - Petrie). He seemed to be acting aggressively towards them for about an hour, but today seems ok. What I did notice however is that his poo was white. I've been searching the web and can't find anything about white poo. Can you help because I'm worried he might have an internal infection or something.
<Might...>
I apologize if I'm being paranoid but I was devastated when Pug died and have worked hard to create a happy home for my fish, so if something is wrong I want to put it right! Any advice?   
  Thanks
  Shelley
<No information on the size of this system, history of water testing... I encourage you to peruse our Goldfish Disease articles and FAQs files: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshdisease.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Lola, the Pampered Picky Eater - 04/19/2006
Hi Sabrina
<Steve!  Good to hear from you!  I hope your Abelmoschus crop is doing well - I'm still interested in trying to grow this plant some time.>
This is about Lola, the large fantail.
<I do very clearly recall.>
She was very stable for several months on a diet of mashed, cooked, peeled peas, cooked zucchini, and minced, boiled greens.  When I feed her the greens, she has large, dark green, well formed stools, which she doesn't have with the peas.  
<Sounds like good goldfish poo.>
Other vegetables like mashed, cooked beans and carrots seem to constipate her--as evidenced by a period of immobility and large, well formed stools.  
<Immobility is definitely a symptom to avoid....>
I was--and am--concerned about a varied diet so I thought I would give both goldfish (Golda and Lola) some defrosted, frozen brine shrimp enriched with Spirulina for protein.  I was hoping...    They both loved it.  
<Adult frozen or live brine shrimp is another very good food to use to help correct constipation, actually, as it is very high in "roughage" content.>
Golda was fine, but 3 days after the seafood, Lola stayed on the bottom, dorsal fin clamped, barely moved and barely ate!   
<Yee-IKES!  Any possibility that this was coincidence and related to some other variable?  Water parameters ideal, I trust (ammonia, nitrite ZERO, nitrate less than 20ppm)?>
She didn't interact with Golda at all--even though Golda was constantly nudging her, trying to get her to move.  This was the worst she had been ever.  
<Disturbing.>
The next day, a long, irregular white thread started to emerge from her anal spot.  I had read that this was not a good sign.  
<Indeed....  Can be a symptom of a number of internal complaints (including constipation), but usually associated with parasites.  I would probably wager that it was from constipation (again).>
After fasting for a day, I returned to her usual diet of peas.  It has been 3 days of slow recovery--and a few long, thin green stools-- but she is definitely improving and eating more!   
<Ahhhh, good.>
Today she raised her dorsal fin when I fed her and she actually started to resume her old feeding behavior of chasing Golda away from the peas so she can (try to) eat them all.  (Golda is no dope--she sneaks in when Lola isn't looking and gulps down a lot.)  
<Heh!  I'm glad she's improved....  Whew!>
She is still "resting" with clamped dorsal fin but not nearly as much.  Now when I enter the room, she gets up and swims around.  It appears that mashed, peeled peas are the only food she can tolerate without digestive distress.  
<What about the other greens that gave her well-formed stools but no distress?>
I read that a constant diet of peas can cause cataracts.  
<To be honest, I wouldn't know - however, a diet of only one thing can in fact be harmful, just for not giving "well-rounded" nutrition.>
I am completely at a loss.  Just about everything besides peas causes some distress as evidenced by immobility and then large stools.  (When she gets just peas, I never see stools.)  Yikes!  Could she be that fragile?
<Yes, she really could.  "Fancy" goldfish are notorious for having digestive issues, and once in a while they can be as bad as Lola.  "Fancy" goldfish are bred to be (literally) deformed - deformed, shortened bodies leads to deformed "innards", too.  In Lola's case, deformed to the point of being dangerously unhealthy.  For this and other reasons, I am not a fan of selectively bred fish; I'm still not even sure where I stand on things like fancy guppies and long, fancy finned Bettas....  But I won't get on my soapbox now, I promise.>
What do I give her for better nutrition?  
<Hey, I don't know if I'd written this before our last correspondences:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm .  In Lola's case, I would try with some aquarium plants like Anacharis/Elodea/Egeria....  Maybe also some floating water lettuce or watersprite, as these plants have tasty dangling roots that would be of good nutritional value.  If it were me, I would also experiment by keeping a small tub outside with water lettuce or watersprite in it and "change out" the one(s) I keep in the tank every few days - this way, not only would the plants have a chance to grow their roots back, but you'd be brining in some nice tiny little organisms living on the roots that would also be consumed by the goldfish, adding more nutritional worth.  I canNOT speculate how this would cause Lola's sensitive tummy to react, but if it were me/my fish, I would try it.  You know her better than I do, though, and know better what you can/should risk....  A tough call with the experiences she's had thus far.>
How much protein does she need?  
<Mm, not a great deal.>
Has anyone tried baby food with goldfish?  
<I don't know....  Honestly, I fear this would foul the water significantly and very quickly, so I wouldn't recommend it.>
Do I need to boil the greens even more than 5 minutes?
<Nah, even 5 minutes is longer than I do; they just need to be soft enough for her to munch.>
As usual I am so grateful for your help with Lola.  
<And I am glad to be of service to her and you.  Thank you for your diligent care of your animals!>
Steve
<All the best to you,  -Sabrina>

There is something wrong with my (gold)fish  04/17/2006
Hi,
i have 4 goldfish don't know the kind or many stuff about them but i have been told how to take care of them.
<What size tank are they in?  They need approximately 10 gallons per fish, depending on the size of the animal.  Do you know how to do water changes?  How to vacuum the gravel?  Do you know what a cycle is?>
I have had them for nearly 3 months now and just today one of them started going to the surface and turned to the side. I emptied the tank and i put fresh water again
<You shouldn't do water changes more than 20-30 percent at a time.  Large water changes are extremely stressful for your fish.>
(i did it yesterday) thinking its the water that makes it behave like this. Then i separated it from the other fish and kept it alone in a smaller tank. It seemed to be tired and it made a lot of effort to stay down. Its belly is a bit swollen and i squeezed it just to see air coming out.
<This is a very bad idea.  Manually removing blockage is a task that should be left only for an expert, i.e. a veterinarian.  I suspect that only a handful of the WWM crew would even feel confident performing such a procedure.  I wouldn't.>
The fish now is better it swims more but every now and then it comes up doing the same (turning to the side). Is my fish dying??? What can i do??? Let me tell you that all other fish are ok. Please help me i love my fish.
<Your fish is suffering from a condition called swimbladder disorder.  It is a condition where is unable to inflate or deflate its swimbladder due to an intestinal blockage.  The most common cause is an inappropriate diet.  Do not feed your pets for a few days to allow the ill Goldfish to pass the blockage, and then change their diet to something more appropriate.  I'm going to send you a few links, please read all three.
SBD and correct Goldfish diet:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm
Goldfish systems:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
Cycling:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
>
Thank you.
<Good luck.
Jason N.>

There's something wrong with my fish! Goldfish in not-ready world   4/18/06
<Hi am Dara and am 14. I bought three veiltail fish and a 19 gallon fish tank. I did everything it said to (clean the gravel add the water conditioner, etc.). I’m not sure what gender my fish are. How can i tell?
<... posted on WWM>
I know Veiltails are supposed to be kind of fat but i have a whitey yellowish one and it is far fatter than the other two. Also, the other two fish swim about near the surface of the water and near the bottom, but the white one just stays mainly near the bottom.
<This system is not cycled>
It can swim around ok but it just doesn't behave like the other two. Do you think  there is something wrong with it?
<With its environment, definitely>
Or is it pregnant maybe? How can you tell if your fish is pregnant?
Thank you so much for reading this am so new to owning fish and am worried about the white veiltail! Please help me!
Thanks, Dara
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above. Do this now, as your fish may well die from their present circumstances in short order. Bob Fenner>

Re: there's something wrong with my goldfish!  - 04/19/2006
Hi again,
thank you for reading my previous email, i appreciate it. What do you mean by 'the system is not cycled'?
<Likely this is the root cause of your difficulty>
I added a biological aquarium supplement to the water which produces the good bacteria. doesn't that mean its cycled?
<Mmm, not necessarily. Testing is still required... for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate... most such adjuncts actually don't work... well or at all. The only one I'll "plug" is BioSpira currently>
My tank is 19 gallons, and its far from small and the fish don't seem cramped at all. The white fish is ok now, I think it was just getting used to its new home. I have one more question, my other 2 fish, one speckled and one grey, the speckled one keeps chasing the smaller grey one, sometimes it tries to bite its tail. is this playing or bullying?
<A bit of both. Best to keep your eye on... and read re Goldfish Behavior... on WWM>
much appreciated
Dara
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Please help me Goldfish trouble   4/16/06
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Tom with you this time, Alfredo.>
I am having a lot of trouble with my goldfish. I sent a message to the crew on Friday but it has gone unanswered.
<E-mails "passing in the night", I'm afraid. As you've seen, Bob F. did reply to your original post.>
I also posted in a less detailed manner in the forum that day, without much of the info. I have supplied it this time around. This site is magnificent and I am grateful that you offer this help to fish owners.
<Thanks much for the kind words and, for the additional information.>
I have 3 goldfish, a small pleco and a tiny catfish in a (approx.) 50 litre tank. Their diet is composed of flakes, sinking pellets, pleco pellets, skinless peas, goldfish crisps and live food. The tank has an AquaClear 20 waterfall filter and a powerhead. The temperature is kept at 79 F and I have been using bottled water for the tank (the tap water is terrible here in Mexico City).
I tested the water for the first time today and the readings were as follows: pH = 8.5, NH3 & NH4 = 0.0, NO2 = 0.3.
<Bob already mentioned the tank size and temperature to you so I won't be "redundant" here. You might be aware that your pH level is quite high. Goldfish do best with pH levels in the mid-7 range (7.2 - 7.6) and your Pleco and catfish will appreciate lower pH, as well. (As a side note, ammonia, when present, can be more problematic in alkaline water than acidic water where it tends to be ionized into non-toxic ammonium (NH4).) You don't mention your nitrate (NO3) readings, however, which is normally not an overriding concern except that it may be in this instance. High levels of nitrates can starve the tank of oxygen. Based on what you describe, this might be consistent with the behavior/condition of your lost pets as well as your Ryukin.>
I lost three goldfish in the past month. The Ranchu spent days on end swimming in place by the plants and sometimes by the heater as if hypnotized. One day its eyes became very sunken and it began breathing very quickly, opening its gills very wide and then died. The celestial died soon after with the same symptoms. The others began scratching against the gravel soon after and at times showing jerky movements. I tried Aquarisol unsuccessfully. The lady at the aquarium recommended General Cure (I have read about all kinds of medications that you guys recommend in this site but I cannot find the vast majority of them here in Mexico) pills for 4 days. The treatment was followed by more scratching so I was advised to treat them with a copper containing medicine for 5 days. This had seemed to work until last night that the Ryukin began scratching again. The fish also had stringy feces with transparent bubble-like segments like linked sausages. The redcap died yesterday after a day of sunken eyes, rapid gill movement, and wide open gills.
<Again, please check your nitrate levels.>
Today the Ryukin has been spending lots of time at the bottom, sometimes swimming in place and at other times laying on the gravel; sometimes swims wildly and scratches. It seems that only one gill is working and seems agitated. I did a 35% water change yesterday and added a tablespoon of aquarium salt.
<Wild swimming behavior is sometimes associated with "shock". A number of possibilities here but one cause that stands out, to me, is a dramatic change in water conditions over a very short period of time. Please, test your bottled water. Frequently, we become so focused on what is occurring in the tank that we overlook what we're putting into it.>  
The lady at the Aquarium recommended that I put the Ryukin in a plastic bag with tank water plus 2 drops of  the copper medicine for less than 5 minutes. Waiting for that fish to hopefully recover. Please help me.
I would like to save these fish that I care about so much.
<Nothing would make us happier, Alfredo.>
Thank you very much.---Alfredo Echeverria
<Best of luck. Tom>

Re: Sunken eyes, frantic breathing--- addendum   4/18/06
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Tom>
I apologize for bothering you again.
<Stop apologizing. (It demonstrates good manners and a fine upbringing, however...) :) Tom>
I forgot to add that the current in my tank is on the slightly tempestuous but swimmable side, in case the strength of the current in one´s tank can be harmful (too oxygenated or not enough or something suchlike).
<It would be hard to over-oxygenate an aquarium, Alfredo. Usually we look for the opposite condition. That said, there are species of fish that don't appreciate tanks with too much water current. Shouldn't be a problem in your case, though. (When you say "tempestuous" I assume you don't mean that they're being blown all over the tank.) My "Rule of Thumb" is that, the more delicate, or finely-finned, the fish are, the less current in the tank they will appreciate.>
Thank you very much.
Alfredo Echeverria
<You're very welcome. Tom>

Re: Sunken eyes and frantic breathing goldfish 2   4/18/06
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Tom with you once again, Alfredo.>
I appreciate your response and the thoroughly sound advice you have given me.
<We're only too happy to be of assistance whenever possible.>
I have read in the search feature about Nitrates (which my test kit doesn't cover) and have several questions pertaining. I also researched a bit concerning pH levels --- all matters that you and Tom stated in your replies I should look out for.
<Excellent. You're making my job easier. :)>
Undergravel filters can seriously tinker with nitrates, as I read, and I am afraid I might have one in my tank. Are they the kind with a small platform in the bottom (beneath the gravel) that connected with a tube to a powerhead above gravel level? I have one like that.
<Then, you have an undergravel filter (UGF).>
I also have the kind that one hangs on to the edge of the tank and is outside the water - it has different filter cartridges (a sponge, a carbon filter, and some ceramic bits for beneficial bacteria breeding).
<You might see these referred to as "hang-on" filters, HOB's and "power filters".>
I read that if chemical filtrants like carbon are used too much or too soon they can mess with pH.
<Activated carbon can alter pH for a couple of reasons. The first is that it can "adsorb" (versus "absorb") carbon dioxide (CO2) which can raise pH levels in the tank. This is considered "temporary" but is also dependent on your water chemistry. The second is that carbon contains ash and phosphate, both of which can be leached into your tank. Higher phosphate levels can lead to algae build-up. Ash can lead to what is referred to as "pH shock" and could, potentially, send your pH levels to as high as 10. Please note that a high-quality, acid-washed carbon will likely leach little of either! The problem is that there are companies that market so-called "activated carbon" that is of poor quality and may, in fact, leach a good deal of both of these elements into your aquarium. Everyone needs to be aware of this and it's one reason why I, among others, don't advocate the use of carbon as an "everyday" filter medium. (Note that even well-regarded sources who advocate the regular use of carbon caution hobbyists to purchase carbon with care and to change it, typically, every four weeks.)>
My multi-insert filter has room for the three inserts that I mentioned above; yesterday I fitted the filter with an addition of an Ammonia-reducing insert (containing little white rocks). That makes it 4 inserts in total. Is this an example of too much or too soon?
<In a word, "Yes." Personally, I have three AquaClear filters such as yours and use only the sponges and Bio-Media in mine, occasionally adding some "floss" for a little extra "polishing" of the water. The ammonia remover will tend to starve your bacteria of nutrition, for one thing. Also, your basket may be packed so tightly that the water will bypass the media and you'll lose filtering effect.>
The pH on the tank tested at 8.5 yesterday. How can I lower it?
<The best, and most efficient, way is to use a source of water for water changes that tests near the pH level that you desire. Even Goldfish advocates - not to exclude your Pleco and Catfish - recommend that it's better to adapt your fish to less-than-optimum, out-of-the-tap pH levels than to chemically alter the pH with additives. It's the change in pH that's potentially dangerous to your pets more than the adaptation to pH levels that are higher, or lower, than they prefer. (Peat moss in your filter basket will release tannic acid, lowering the pH. A CO2 injector will form "carbonic acid" into the tank but, now we're back to "toying" around.)>
Is the undergravel filter in my tank (if it qualifies as one) producing deadly nitrates for my fish?
<It's well-known that UGF's can produce serious problems where nitrates are concerned. My recommendation is to pull it out. (I'm betting that many of my fellow WWM Crew members are asking themselves what took me so long to suggest this. :)>
How can I control these two aspects as the fish might be in shock as Tom mentioned? I wrote that I had been using bottled water and Mr. Fenner wrote back that fish need a lot of minerals in the water. Do you mean tap water? Should I start using more tap water instead?
<The minerals needed to "buffer" changes in pH are missing in distilled water. I would recommend using tap water (with a good dechlorinator, or course) for water changes in order to help stabilize your water chemistry. You may have to do a mix of both tap and distilled water here but it's better to do it in a "water change bucket" than in your aquarium.>
(No stores open today. Don't have acids for lowering pH and the like.)
<Already covered, hopefully...>
I am sorry to sound like an overly-concerned Jewish mother (Oi Vey! Oi Gevaalt!), but I should like to keep my dear goldfish alive and happy. I appreciate the tremendous help that you ladies and gentlemen provide.  
Thanks again, 
Alfredo Echeverria
<You're welcome, Alfredo. Tom>

Re: Sunken eyes and frantic breathing goldfish 3   4/18/06
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Tom, again. (I don't like to leave things "unfinished", Alfredo. :)>
Firstly, I would like to thank you for your patience and kind advice.
I wrote you an e-mail this morning but I think I may have sent it to a wrong address--- instead of FennerRobert@ I put RobertFenner or perhaps I wrote BobFenner@.
<Actually, we got it...>
Anyways, I was wondering how I could get the pH down and how I might reduce the nitrates ( my kit doesn't test nitrates). If my readings for nitrites and ammonia were perfect, could there still conceivably be a problem with nitrates?
<Absolutely. Nitrates are the "end product" of the cycle. The Nitrosomonas bacteria feed on ammonia and Nitrospira bacteria feed on nitrites. It's left to us to handle the nitrate levels through proper feeding, cleaning, water changes, filtration, etc.>
I read in the articles that undergravel filters are not recommended for Goldfish as they can boost the nitrates. Are these filters the kind with an underground platform connecting to a powerhead by means of a plastic tube?
<Deja vu. Yes, they're the ones...>
I have one like that, as well as the kind that latches on outside the rim and has insert cartridges of carbon, sponge, and ceramic bits for the bacteria. I managed to carefully cram an extra cartridge containing whitish rocks that remove ammonia (same brand as filter and inserts -- Aquaclear). Would this be an instance of using chemical filtration "too much or too soon" as you warn in the pH article?
<Yes...>
I decided to try using tap water instead of bottled water for the first time today. Please pardon the stupid question: Does one have to stir the bucket of tap water after adding the dechlorinator?
<No such thing as a 'stupid' question. Measure the temperature of the water from the tap, add the dechlorinator and let the tap agitate the water. Let the water sit for a few minutes before adding it, giving it a stir if you like. I like to wait until the water is crystal-clear before adding it to the tank and stirring seems to quicken this.>
I did a 40% water change this evening and added the treated tap water in hopes that beneficial bacteria will thrive in the extra minerals and pH will lower (the water tested 8 in pH as opposed to the 8.5 in the tank).
<The minerals will help the fish and buffer against "dramatic" changes in pH.>
Taking these shots in the dark.
<Not "shots in the dark", Alfredo. I'm only sharing what many, far more qualified than I, have researched, documented and shared with the rest of us.>
I appreciate any advice you can offer.
Thank you and sorry for the trouble,
Alfredo
<What trouble? That's what we're here for... Tom>

Re: Sunken eyes and frantic breathing goldfish 4   4/18/06
Dear Tom and the WWM crew,
I really appreciate all the great advice you have given me and the enormous help you have been.
It is very comforting to know that people like you --- altruistic, dedicated, and passionate fish experts--- are sharing their priceless knowledge and time with the general public.
Personally, I had tried to contact vets here in Mexico City with any knowledge about fish and found none.
I thank you for your time and trouble. (Please excuse me for repeatedly calling you Mr. Fenner, Tom.)
Alfredo Echeverria Ripstein
<On behalf of all of us, I thank you for your kind words and thoughts, Alfredo. We all  take pride in contributing whatever we can to make this site the best it can be and in making every effort to assist all who ask for our help/guidance. Our very best to you, my friend. Tom>

Re: Saving my Pets ( Sunken Eyes Frantic Breathing III)... not reading    4/25/06
Hello, dear members of the WWM crew.
My much loved Goldfish, Snowy, died today. I have lost 6 very dear fish in the last year and I am determined to make the ones I have left survive--- with your help, of course.
These are the details:
I have a 50 litre tank with a small Ryukin, a small Lionhead, and a tiny Catfish.
<A larger system would help you to provide stable conditions>
The tank is heated at 75, and is equipped with two filters and one powerhead.
One filter is undergravel
<I would not use this with goldfish>
and the other is a hang-on Aquaclear filter from which I have removed the carbon insert, as instructed by Tom, and now houses only the sponge and ceramic inserts.
I feed my fish once daily. Their diet consists of goldfish flakes, sinking pellets, skinless peas, and brine shrimp.
<I would not feed dry food daily>
The readings taken this afternoon from the water test are as follow:
Ammonia = 0
Nitrites= 0.3
Nitrates = 5
pH = 8
<This pH is really too high>
Some of the goldfish that died had been scratching against the gravel and on occasion given to wild, erratic swimming. I also noticed that they began bouts of frantic, heavy breathing; opening their gills very wide before their unfortunate death.
<Environmental... likely anoxia, too little oxygen at play here among other possibilities>
Several weeks ago I treated with AquariSol, then with copper
<Aquarisol is copper-based nowadays... you're also likely poisoning them here>
medication and also with general cure pills.
Bad move, I know.
<...>
Since then I have done frequent and well-planned partial water changes (20-50%) and given aquarium salt at recommended doses. I syphon and pick up uneaten food and sometimes add Cycle, the beneficial bacteria solution, to the water.
I haven't been medicating for a while now. I have been doing frequent test of the water and getting readings like the one I included above, but day before yesterday I found my little Pleco dead and my beloved Pearlscale had fallen ill -- spending much time at the bottom. This morning he began with buoyancy problems (I feed them in accordance to the articles and keep the water in very good condition) and died in the afternoon.
One of the fish that is left still once in a while shows the erratic, wild swimming and also scratches on occasion. She otherwise seems fine and swims happily. Sometimes she spends time near the bottom, swimming in place by a plastic plant as if hypnotized. Is this normal?
<No>
Should I treat her with something?
<No>
I love these fish and want them to survive and be happy. Its devastating to lose so many dear pets in such short time.
Please tell me what I should go about doing, given the specific situation, to ensure their survival and well-being. I appreciate all your help tremendously.
Thanks,
Alfredo Echeverria
<... Again... please read the responses you have been sent... and read on WWM re goldfish... Systems, Disease: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestkindex.htm
Your answers are stated, re-stated there over and over. Bob Fenner>

Battling Ich and Septicemia Re: goldfish - using antibiotic and antifungal simultaneously  - 04/15/06
Dear WetWebMedia Crew, I have two fish with severe ick and also early stage hemorrhagic septicemia (possibly due to reduced immune system caused by the ick) <Maybe, but more likely caused by too much organic matter in the system>. I have bought an ick treatment and also an anti internal bacteria treatment. They are both from the same company (Interpet) and no ingredient list is given with them. <Return or throw away. Don't need or want them> It warns that the ick treatment contains formaldehyde and methanol (and I suspect methylene blue also due to the blue colour and staining warnings). No such warnings are given with the antibiotic which is colourless. There is no specific information in the booklet about whether these products are compatible and Interpet appear not to have a website. Can you please give me some advice on whether I should use these treatments can be used together, and if not advise me on a course of action (i.e. which problem to treat for first). Thank you very much,
Lewis.
<Lets treat both at once. It would be helpful to know what species of fish we are dealing with here, but the vast majority of FW fish can tolerate this approach. You will need aquarium salt (and a scale to weigh out the proper dose), heat, a few buckets and a gravel vac. Start with a big 50% water change using the gravel vac to get as much of the organic matter out of the system as possible. Then measure out 76 grams of salt per 10 gallons of water. Put the salt in a jar, fill with tank water and shake to dissolve as much as possible. Pour the brine (only) into the tank, then refill the jar with more tank water. Repeat over the course of a day or two until all the salt has been added. Then crank up the temp to around 86 degrees. Now comes the fun part. You will need to do water changes daily, always with the gravel vac, replacing the water with water salted to the same concentration. It's best to dissolve the salt in the water before adding to the tank, therefore the need for a few buckets. The heat will speed up the Ich lifecycle and clear your fish in a few days. The salt will kill the parasites in their free swimming stage and stop reinfection. The water changes will reduce the organics in the system and allow the fish to fight off the septicemia. I would not use an antibiotic. They tend to kill off the good bacteria in the tank that control your water quality. If the septicemia does not improve then the fish must be moved to a QT tank for treatment. You should never treat in the main. A sick fish in bad water is not a good thing. You can lower the temp a bit when the Ich clears the fish, but keep the salt in the water for at least two weeks after the last spot drops. You can reduce the water changes when you see the septicemia improving. This approach is a sure fire way to remove Ich from your system. Unless reintroduced you will never see a spot again. Keeping up with water changes, always siphoning with a gravel vac, will greatly reduce the chance of seeing the septicemia again. Good luck. Don>  

Black Moor Goldfish env. dis.    4/15/06
Hello, I have a beautiful Black Moor Goldfish, his name is Fred and I think he might be sick or have an infection.
I recently replaced (wed April 12th) all water in the fish tank due to some algae growth and very milky water.
<Not usually a good idea...>
I basically started over.
<How about your biological filtration?>
I noticed yesterday when I got home that he has this pink growth on his butt. Its the color of salmon and it looks like a hemorrhoid.
<Environmental>
I also noticed that trailing it was a white thin substance which I am guessing is poop. Is there anything that I can put in the water or feed
him to help him get better? I have only had him for a little over a month. He also shares his 10 gallon tank with a Calico Goldfish and her name is Ethel.
Fred and Ethel get along great and they play a lot. I haven't noticed any change in his demeanor or eating habits, he still eats like a pig so I
don't think, or at least I hope he's not in any pain.  
Please help!! I don't want to lose my Fred!!!!
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Sunken eyes frantic breathing goldfish    4/15/06
This site is incredible I am very thankful that you offer this help to fish owners.
<And we're very glad to do so>
I have 4 goldfish, a pleco , and a tiny catfish in a sixty litre tank
<Will or do need more room than this>
with a powerhead and a waterfall-like filter -containing carbon, sponge, and ceramic components. I keep them heated at 79
<A bit high...>
and their diet consists of flakes, sinking pellets, skinless peas, pleco pellets, goldfish crisps, and live food - ´´Artemias´´ (are they also called by this name in English?).
<Yes, Artemia salina in Linqua Latina, brine shrimp commonly called>
I also use Cycle, the beneficial bacteria solution. I use bottled water
<Mmm, goldfish need a good deal of minerals in their water>
for the tank which I condition with something called neutrastress (eliminates heavy metals, chlorine and the like). I love my fish very, very much
<I see>
I lost two goldfish in the past month, a Ranchu and a celestial. The Ranchu spent days on end swimming in place by the plants and sometimes by the heater as if hypnotized. One day its eyes became very sunken and it began breathing very quickly, opening its gills very wide and then died. The celestial died soon after with the same symptoms.
The others began scratching soon after and at times showing jerky movements.
<Very bad signs>
The lady at the aquarium recommended that I treat them with Aquarisol, which failed to cure the itching. I then proceeded to medicate with General Cure pills at the Aquarium lady's prompting (I have read about all kinds of medications that you guys recommend in this site but I cannot find the vast majority of them here in Mexico). The treatment was followed by more scratching so I was advised to treat them with a copper containing medicine for 5 days.
<Yikes... too much chemical exposure. I would have just used aquarium salt...>
This had seemed to work until last night that the Ryukin began scratching again.
Also, some of the fish have been exhibiting frayed fins and small splits in the tail and the redcap is missing several scales (from fighting, I am told). The fish also had stringy feces with transparent bubble-like segments like linked sausages.
Today the redcap has very sunken eyes and is spending time swimming in place near the bottom with rapid breathing and wide gills.
The lionhead seems to have the beginning of sunken eyes.
I don't have a water testing kit and everything here in Mexico city is closed until Monday for holidays.
Please help me.
Thank you very much.
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above, particularly on Goldfish Disease... I would just use salt/s as covered there... Do check your water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I strongly suspect that your root problem here is environmental, not a biological disease agent. Bob Fenner>
---Alfredo Echeverria

My goldfish, killing them    4/15/06
i recently decided that i wanted to get a couple of goldfish, so i went to the local tropical fish store and picked up 1 (fish #1) then went to Wal mart
and got 1 more (fish #2), (they were both in a pretty big goldfish bowl and i read through your site and i am going to go get a 10 gallon tank soon) then
the next day my shubunkin (from Wal mart) died.
<...>
I figured maybe it was just because the fish were cared for differently from different stores, so i went back to the fish store and got a little red
fantail (fish 3) and then it was fine for a couple of weeks so i decided to get a calico fantail (fish 4)and a baby clown pleco (fish 5). I noticed
that the calico seemed to be acting kind of funny (spinning and rolling over) in the tank but i had heard of other fish acting strangely when they
are first introduced to a new home and didn't really think anything of it.
<... two>
The calico had just gotten off of hold from the fish store. I had been waiting for 2 weeks to buy it and so it might have been taken off hold too
early, but it died while i was gone (i put it in with my other 2 fish at 3:00 and it was dead at 8:00).
<... tres>
Then the next day fish #1 died too and it was just fine 3-4 hours before. So now i have my little red fantail and the pleco. But then today i noticed
that the fantail has a red and pink spot on his forehead where his nose would be and am wondering what that is and if that could be what's causing
the other fish to die?
<Nope>
Also, am wondering if a filter is completely necessary and if adding salt would help him?
<... is, and maybe>
I know i must sound very irresponsible but that wasn't my intention.
<...?>
I know plenty of people that did the exact same thing as i did and their fish are just fine. Even the people at the fish store said that i was doing everything right but obviously that
isn't the case i all my fish would still be alive... Do you think it could be the water? I was thinking of using bottled water to fill the tank, would that change anything? I usually use tap water and use a stress coat that clears the water of harmful toxins, is that enough?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Elizabeth
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: My goldfish, killing them  - 04/15/06
Do you know what the reddish pink spot on his nose could be and any possible treatments?
<... please read where you were referred to. BobF>

Oranda Stuck on Bottom of Tank Upside Down    4/14/06
Hi,
My name is Brian and I have 3 Orandas.  One of my Orandas, the smaller and rounder of the 3 has always had floating issues.  These seem to always have been corrected by pea feeding and such.  
<Mmm...>
So when it happened a few days ago, I didn't think much of it and went to the peas again.  Her situation has gotten progressively worse.  Over the last couple days, she has gone from floating right-side-up at the top of the tank and eating, to stuck at the bottom of a hospital tank upside-down and no longer eating.  I'm not sure what to do at this point as I think it may be too late.  She has the clear zigzagish poops now also and her eyes have gone back and forth from being "popped".  I've added salt to the hospital tank along w/ medicine for internal bacterial infections.  Any suggestions and/or education to this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Brian
<Please read Sabrina's piece here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm
and the linked files at top... Not an uncommon problem. Bob Fenner>
 

Unknown goldfish disease....    4/14/06
Hi, I have 2 common goldfish in a well established 18G tank. One of them has started just sitting on the bottom of the tank holding its fins close and
breathing slowly. When I feed it, it becomes active and eats plenty food. It has lots of white lumps (1 -2 mm in size) on its tail, and today i noticed
streaks of blood in its tail, with more blood around some of the whittle lumps.
<Do the spots look like Ich?  Look up pictures of Ich on the internet, it is very recognizable, esp. under fluorescent lighting.  If so, the fish likely has hemorrhagic septicemia as well, probably brought on by the Ich, and should be treated with medicated food.  The Ich should be treated with salt and heat, minimal poking around on the 'net should give you an idea of how this treatment works.  If the spots really don't look and behave like Ich to you, you should also look into Carp Pox.  Google is your friend.>
I have searched the internet and cannot find anything resembling this, unless it is a combination of more than one disease? Although they could do with more space i use a canister filter which is rated for aquariums of 21-40G and perform regular water changes of 25-50%, so the water quality should be okay I think.
<The first thing you should do when you see a sick fish is test the water quality.  I strongly suggest that you invest in some test kits.  A savvy shopper can have a test kit including Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH tests for as little as $20.  Ammonia and Nitrite should ALWAYS be at 0 PPM, Nitrate below 20 PPM.  As you gain experience, you will learn how Nitrate and pH can tell you about potential problems with water quality that are difficult to measure.  Second, small (20%-30%) daily water changes should always accompany illness in fish.>
Thanks for any advice you can give.
Lewis.
<Good luck!
Jason N.>

Goldfish with only one open gill... env. dis.
Hello,
<Hi there>
            I have a white fantail goldfish which I've had for several weeks. This morning he was swimming around happily, both his gills were
opening and closing, and there seemed to be no abnormalities. I did a water change today, and for several hours afterward, he seemed perfectly
fine. But then I noticed he was floating on top gasping for air.
<The new water...>
Now, his right gill barely opens (if at all). Sometimes he will start violently shaking and opening/closing his mouth. Then for a few minutes
afterward, his right gill opens and closes just fine. But eventually it seems to seal again. He hasn't ended up floating at the top again yet,
but he does spend a lot of time near the top. I moved him to a small 1 gallon hospital tank so that I could keep an eye on him. I'm wondering
if being in the net could have damaged his gill, or if it is early signs of some disease that needs to be treated.
<... not a pathogenic one, but environmental. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treath2o.htm
Best/better by far to allow new water to "rest" a week or more ahead of use. Bob Fenner>

An update, and another question.... Goldfish dis.   4/12/06
Hi there,
<Hello>
Thanks so much for the earlier help with the "lonely only" goldfish.  I am glad to report that his own tank has now finished cycling, and he is back at
home, having spent almost six weeks in the quarantine tank.  The fungus that he acquired just after his move to the small tank cleared up nicely with the salt.  
<Good>
I have now acquired a chlorine/chloramine test kit (unfortunately, the dip stick type was all I could find), and I now keep an eye on that as
well as the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.  Ammonia and nitrite both zero, with nitrates between 5 and 10.
<Acceptable>
Once the original goldie was back in the 20 gallon, I acquired another goldie, an almost pure silver fantail of approximately two inches body
length, which took up residence in the quarantine tank.
<Good>
  He has now been in there about ten days, and last night I noticed he had started to show some red streaks and veining in his fins and tail.
<Ahh... aren't you glad you quarantined?>
No marks on his body.  I had been doing 30% water changes daily, with the appropriate amounts of Aqua
Plus added each time.  The tank is bare bottomed, and I make sure to pick up all the fish poop with the gravel vac when I'm doing the changes.  As this
is a small 3.3 gallon spare betta tank which had never fully cycled, I was testing the water every second day just to keep an eye out for any unwanted
spikes.  While I did have detectable ammonia and nitrite levels, these were not that high, at 0.6 ammonia and 0.1 nitrite.
<Are actually high... potentially lethal... at least debilitating>
Nitrates tested at 5. These levels had remained pretty steady for the whole period of time he had been in the tank.  Chlorine/Chloramine was undetectable via the dipsticks.  I had
also tested the tap water directly with the dipsticks, as I wanted to know just how effective my Aqua Plus was, and I am glad to report that it works
perfectly, as the raw tap water certainly has detectable amounts of chlorine/chloramine.  The tank has a small corner filter, which is filled
with filter floss only - it initially had charcoal in it too, but I had to take that out as this fish took to knocking the lid off the filter, tipping
it over and spilling the charcoal all over the bottom of the tank.  He then tried to eat it, so out it went.
<Typical goldfish behavior>
I also noted that the fish is spending a lot of time sleeping on his left side at the bottom of the tank.  He rouses easily, and has no problems swimming - he is very active if someone is
around his tank and he thinks there is the chance of a meal.  He is his usual greedy self at meal times.  He is fed two small meals a day - the one in the morning alternates between staple pellets, colour enhancing pellets, and Spirulina flakes.  His evening meal is a thawed, skinned pea.  His poop seems to be normal - varying in colour depending on what his last meal was.   I had initially wondered if the red showing in his fins might have been some colour change brought about by the colour enhancing pellets, but I didn't
like the look of the veining or the lethargy, so I also suspected that I might be looking at septicemia.  I had some Jungle Labs Anti Bacterial medicated food on hand (not sure exactly what medication it contains), that is supposed to be good for septicemia,
<May be bad for biological filtration...>
so I switched his meals to this.  I didn't have any Furan 2 left in stock (figures), but I did have some Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Triple Sulfa, which says it is effective for
septicemia,
<... marginally>
so he got a dose of that as well, as the Jungle Labs food labeling said it could be used in conjunction with external treatments.   I also added some aquarium salt.  He only got the triple sulfa a few hours ago, so I'm not sure yet if it is working, although I'm beginning to wonder if his fins aren't just a little bit less red.  Does this sound like
bacterial septicemia, or am I possibly looking at a combination of colour enhancing food and sheer boredom?
<More likely the latter>
This fish has never really liked the small tank, unlike the other, who loved it, and I'd like to move him to the bigger one as soon as possible, but NOT until I know he's not going to pass anything on to the other fish.  How much sleep is normal per day for a gold fish?
<Akin to dogs, cats... variable, but a bunch>
None of the others I've had seem to sleep quite like this one does, but I saw from browsing your site that its not quite unheard of, either.  Is there anything else I should be doing to try to save this little guy?
<Mmm, not other than you relate here>
My daughter  has already become quite attached to him, and has christened him Snowball.  Thanks for any additional information here.
Fiona
<I'd soon "risk" moving this specimen... Likely is about as clean as it will get. Bob Fenner>

Goldfish Concerns... no info.    4/12/06
Hi guys... Not sure if you guys can help but I have 3 goldfish and my concern is that one of them is bloating up like the one in the picture on your
website in the FAQ's section. The others looks as if he had ashes all over their body...as if peeling white stuff off their skin..?
<Yikes...>
please tell me if this is normal or if I need to do something about it. Thank you.
<Uhh... where's the "beef?"... No info. provided re your system, testing of water quality, history... Please read on WWM re Goldfish Systems, Disease, Nutrition... Bob Fenner, not a mind reader>

Yikes!  White spots and blood!! Goldfish dis.    4/12/06
Good afternoon!
Okay, I've searched your site and my question has been answered...BUT...the link that was posted for "more info" didn't take me anywhere!  It was a  blank
page; so could you please tell me what medicine I need for  septicemia?
<Depends on "cause/s", species involved, the system... Usually just a return to good water quality...>
I have a 35 gallon octagon tank with 3 fantail goldies.   And in my completely ignorant opinion.. I think two are males... and both "males"  have all of a sudden
come down with ICK....AND...one of my "males" who is  solid white, not only has those white spots, but he also has a streak of blood  running thru his tail.
<... have you read re ich on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm>
My lone "female" doesn't have any symptoms of  ICK.  She's her regular happy fat self!  Well, other than the fact  that her "stomach".. the bottom side of
her has turned to a shiny goldish  color... it was previously white.  For a brief moment I thought that maybe  the "males" had the white spots for mating
reasons... but when I noticed the red  streak thru the white one's tail...I knew I was in trouble.  So, can you  please tell me what I need for septicemia?  Oh,
and BTW.. I did add Rid-Ick  (Ich?) a couple hours ago...
Thanks so much!
~Laura
<... use the Google search term on WWM... "Goldfish, septicemia"... view the cached versions (for highlighted terms)... read. Bob Fenner>

Re: Yikes!  White spots and blood!! Goldfish dis, poor maint.
Thank you so much for your fast response.  I did as you suggested and  read all the articles... I do have just one more question:  In one of the  articles
it said to use Maracyn and Maracyn 2... that's not a problem b/c I know  I can get that at the LFS.  This is my question:  Can I put in the M  and M2 in the
same tank that I've been treating with Rid-Ich?
<Yes>
OR... should  I move all the fish (total of 3..one with spots and red streaks in the tail, one  with only spots and one with no apparent disease at this time) into a 29 gallon  tank that
is running but with no fish in it?  The 29 gal. tank I've had for  years... but just started "running" it again about 3 months ago.  (It's my  
"just-in-case" tank...haha...never hurts to be too prepared, right?)  The  35 gallon (the one with the fish) was my brother's tank and it's been up and  running for 3
months as well.  The fish I have in the 35 gallon tank have  been there for over a month...I do weekly water changes at 40%.. I test the water  3-4 times a
week, and everything is 'within' range...except for NITRATES.. and  that is high when I just change the water.. but they settle down to normal after  about 24
hours.... And this leads me to another question (sorry! )....
<... where are the spaces between your sentences?>
I read on your site that  poor water quality could be the reason for the septicemia...but all of
my  numbers are reading that the H2O is okay.. could I be changing the water too much?
This is all very frustrating!  I've had goldfish for 18 years...(off  and on)...and 'in the beginning' before the internet and all the information  that's
readily available...my fish lived longer ( two of them for 7  years!!)...and at that time all I knew about was ICK...and they never had  ICK!  And now, it
seems like I can't keep a goldfish for 3 months!!
Thanks for ANY help you can give me!!!  Keep up the good work...this  website is AWESOME!!!!!!!!!
~Laura
<The Mardel products are mixable with the Malachite Green. I would not move these fish. Bob Fenner<>

Re: Fan Tail Fish sick    4/12/06
Well thank you for your quick response,
I have removed the plant, changed his water and he still takes ''naps'' at the bottom of his tank. The infection isn't white anymore but still a little red and so is where his tail meets the body! His waste is green???
Strange!
I just hope he gets better...
<Me too. BobF>

Unable to diagnose goldfish disease    4/10/06
Hey there, my name is Matt.  I have one female redcap goldfish (appx. 2.5years old) and one male redcap goldfish - about 2 years old. The female
has been getting what look to be pimples where the wen meets the rest of the body and at the top of her gills.  These pimples are orange in color just
like the rest of her body and are about the size of a pin-head at their largest.  I am not sure what is causing these pimples however, as I cannot
find any pictures online that look like what she has.  I feel she is also beginning to lose some of her motor control and uses her pectoral fins
alternately to move now, giving her the appearance of waddling.  Water quality has been fine in the tank whenever I have tested it.  This fish just
doesn't seem healthy though she still eats and still lays eggs which produce several fry about 3 or 4 times a month.
Any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt
<... some "pimpling" of wens does "just" occur... with growth, hormonal/seasonal changes... the "motor control" issue could likewise be "nothing"... not uncommon for very fancy goldfish to "waddle" about... due to their body shapes. That the fish is breeding is telling... that you're likely doing most everything right. I don't find from what you've written here that this fish is actually not healthy. Bob Fenner>

Black Moor Sick    4/10/06
Hi! My name is Stacy, and I am desperately trying to find out what is wrong with my fish. I would appreciate any help you can give me. I have a forty gallon tank with one calico fantail, one koi, and two black moors.
<Best not to mix koi with fancy goldfish... they're too rambunctious, able, greedy to eat all the food... and koi grow to be huge if kept in good health>
They were originally in a pond with four other fish, but when the weather changed, the other fish began to die, so I moved the remaining four in the house. They have always been together and have always gotten along. I have two twenty gallon whisper filters at each end of the aquarium with an air stone that sits on the bottom of the tank and is the length of the depth of the tank. I feed them regular pond flakes.
I went out of town on several consecutive trips, and when I came back I noticed that one of my black moors was lying on the bottom of the tank. He would go to the top of the tank gulp air and quickly swim back down. The pupil of his left I also seemed to be much smaller than the other leading me to believe that he lost his vision in that eye. I did a search on the internet and it seemed that I had allowed the tank to become toxic (even though all my other fish seemed fine). I added fresh water, ph tablets, and took out the carbon filter. He seemed fine for several weeks, and all of a sudden began to display the same symptoms even though I had meticulously been watching water levels,
<Mmm, changing out water I hope/trust... not just adding>
vacuuming, cleaning out algae etc. I started to soak their food because he always seems constipated. I added more ph tablets and, later, antibiotics. He seems fine if I medicate the tank but after a week begins to display the same symptoms. All my other fish are healthy. I observed him very closely, and here is a description:
Usually has white poop trailing (or green if fed peas)
Lethargic unless feeding
Gulps air at surface
Top fin seems to have some damage
Darker Black spot on right side
Small pupil in left eye
May have a rust colored tinge where lower fins meet body
Acts normal and healthy almost a week after medicating, but suddenly reverts back to old symptoms
I am trying to be very descriptive because I am constantly reading bits and pieces of his symptoms in other people's questions, but there is never anything that fits him perfectly...Therefore there is nothing that seems to completely heal him after I medicate him. This cycle has been going on for almost a year now, and he is the only fish that acts this way. However, I am not isolating him because if there is a problem in the tank, I want the whole tank rid of the problem. Should I isolate him?
<At this point... of possible use>
I am also thinking of buying a forty gallon filter and using it in addition to the other two filters, but I don't even know if this would be beneficial. I am just desperate, and I hate him being so sick all the time.
I am sorry that this is soooo long, but I would love any insight that you could give me!
Thank You, Stacy
<Does read like a genetic/developmental anomaly rather than something biological/infectious or parasitic, even environmental. Isolation with the Calico ultimately is the route to go though. Bob Fenner>

Goldfish beh./disease question  4/09/06
Hello Mr. Fenner.
<Hi, Gage here today.>
My name is Dale and I have recently purchased 10 goldfish for my outdoor garden pond and I was wondering if you could help me. I have a problem because 3 of my goldfish are turning black from gold and i have never heard of this happening before.  So I was wondering if you knew what the cause of this may be. Even though the 3 goldfish are about 85% black they seem fine in every way.
I would be grateful if you could get back to me and tell me the problem.
<It is fairly common for goldfish to change color; it could be related to their temperature, new diet, or just genetics, nothing to worry about really.  You can find more on this and other Goldfish issues at the following URL.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfishfaqs.htm Best regards, Gage>
Thank you very much.                                                           
Yours sincerely
Dale

Ripped Bubble on my Goldfish   4/7/06
I've had 2 red eyed bubble goldfish for 1 year.  They got so big that last week I bought them a new 10 gallon aquarium.
<Good. Will need even larger in time>
The largest one's bubble got sucked into the plastic catch basket at the bottom of the filter tube, and tore it completely off except the part under his eye.  The bubble floats around when he is swimming, kind of like a deflated balloon, but I am worried about the gapping hole that surrounds his eye where the bubble used to be attached.  Will he get infected?
<Mmm, only time can/will tell>
Should I cut the bubble off, would he feel this, or would it unbalance him.  He is still eating good, and swimming around.  I don't want him to die.  Can you help?
Shaken in Las Vegas :)
<Please insert your subject/title in the Google search tool on WWM and read the cached versions (will highlight the search terms). Bob Fenner>

Re: Ripped Bubble on my Goldfish   4/8/06
Thank you for your answer, just 2 more questions.  I cut the fishes bubble off last night, he was trying to eat it, and it was pulling the wound open
more.  What can I put in the water to make sure he does not get a fungus,
<Aquarium salt, perhaps a sulfa drug, acriflavine...>
and will be safe for the other bubble fish to be in there with the medicine.
<Yes, the above are safe and effective>
I am going to the petstore as soon as you respond, the eye does not look too good, but he is still eating like crazy and swimming just fine.
I am at your mercy!
<Mmm, no... Bob Fenner>

Six weeks on.... CSN revival song title?   4/7/06
Bob,
<John>
Thanks so much for all the help you've given me in the past.  It's about six weeks since I last emailed you and things aren't quite perfect yet with my lionhead.  She's been here just over three months now, alone in a 10 gallon tank with an AquaClear filter and a bit of Polyfilter on the bottom, and as I have to transport her to a friend's house while I go away for several weeks, I thought I'd trouble you again to ask about a few lingering items.
I've put her on a mainly vegetarian diet, she's eating a lot of Formula Two, with the occasional pea or bite of lettuce, and a bit of Jungle Pepso Food once a week.  My LFS (very well respected place) sold me the Pepso Food a while back saying they give it to all their new arrivals for three days and I should try that,
<Worth trying>
and then one meal a week thereafter just to ensure there was no bacterial problem causing the stringy/tape-like white or clear poop.  It helped, though she'd get a little constipated and bloaty and need the pea after a couple helpings.  Anyway, the poop (and I can't believe how often I'm using this word)
<Ahh! Good to recognize, retain elements of our childhood... poop!>
is usually a nice thick dark green now, but the last couple days I've seen it come out stringy and white again, sometimes with bubbles in the middle, and just since yesterday a couple bright red spots in it.  As some of the gravel is bright red, and her favorite hobby is, of course, gravel-sucking, I'm not sure if she's swallowing tiny bits of gravel and expelling them or if it's something more dire.  I wish I could figure this out, but there's no consistency to it--the poop will be dark green and thick for days, then have a bubble or two, then be a six inch long piece of white thread with a red spot.  I'm afraid of overfeeding her, but she never gets tired of food so I cut her off after what seems like a decent but not gluttonous feeding.  She also has an after-dinner ritual of coming to the top for air.  Every single time she eats, she then spends at least an hour going up to the top, taking in air, dropping  
back down, blowing a bubble or two, and all over again and again.  Could this be a really obvious cause of some of the issues with the bubbles she expels from the other end?
<Mmm, possibly, yes>
I'm also still concerned about the pH of the water, which is only around 6.6, but it's been that way all along, as well as the nitrates, which have been steady at about 30 since the tank cycled.   
<Really needs to be lower... under twenty ppm... there are means... detailed on WWM. This factor/chemistry alone "could be it">
Not sure about hardness of the water, as different test kits have given wildly different results, but I don't think there's reason to assume there's an issue there.
<Not likely an issue... or high, considering the measured pH>
Could all this be stress (including the red spots in the poop) after over three months?
<Yes>
And if so, would a couple hours' trip (I'll bring the tank water with me) make it worse?
<Maybe a bit more, yes>
Thanks so much; I hope I haven't left anything out.
Regards,
<If there is/will be time, I'd try a one-shot treatment of Flagyl/Metronidazole in this fish's food. Please read on WWM (the Google search tool) re. Bob Fenner>
John

Black Moors... sick, env.  4/6/06
We just bought fish for the first time.
<Welcome to the "pet fish experience">
We bought 3 black moors and when I brought them home we let the bag sit in the water for 15 minutes , then added a cup of aquarium water into the bag so the moors could get used to the new temperature.  
<Good technique>
When I finally put the moors into the tank them seemed happy they were swimming really fast in the tank and going up to the surface frequently.
<... could be okay... but there might be something amiss with your water quality... was dechloraminated (the sanitizer removed/neutralized)? The tank cycled?>
  One of the moors has one eye that's cloudy and the other two seem to have one eye slightly bigger then the other.  Is it normal for my black moors to spend the majority of their time at the surface of the tank and are there eyes supposed to be  the way they are?
   <Mmm, no... something is wrong here. Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
  Thank you