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FAQs About Goldfish Disease/Health 52

Related Articles: Goldfish Systems, Goldfish 101: Goldfish May Be Popular, And They May Be Cheap, But That Doesn't Make Them Easy Aquarium Fish by Neale Monks, Goldfish Disease, Goldfish, Goldfish Varieties, Koi/Pond Fish Disease, Livestock Treatment System, Bloaty, Floaty Goldfish, Gas Bubble Disease/Emphysematosis, Pond Parasite Control with DTHP, Hole in the Side Disease/Furunculosis,

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FAQs on Goldfish Medicines Antifungals, Antibacterials, Anti-protozoals ( Copper, eSHa, Metronidazole, Formalin, Copper, Malachite Green), Dewormers, Organophosphates, Salts, Mela- et al. non-fixes, Misc. Med.s,



Goldfish Disease by "Types", Causes:
Environmental 1, Environmental 2, Environmental 3, Environmental 4, Environmental 5, Environmental , (Absolutely the Biggest Category)
Floaty Bloaty Goldfish
Nutritional (Second Largest)
Genetic/Developmental
Eye Troubles
Lumps/Bumps/Growths (including idiopathic tumors)
Behavioral/Social
Viral and Bacterial, Fungal Infectious
Parasitic: (Ich, Protozoans, Flukes, Worms, Crustacean/ Anchorworms/Lernaeids, ) Fish Lice (Argulus),
Goldfish Swim Bladder Problems
Anomalous (Misc., Injuries, etc.)

New Print and eBook on Amazon

Goldfish Success
What it takes to keep goldfish healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

floating goldfish        1/18/14
I have a goldfish that has been floating on her side for about 6 months now. I know why it has happened and blame nothing but myself. My biggest question is i am a veterinary technician and have a working knowledge of anatomy. I knew it was air that is keeping her floating on her side and was able to expel air with a syringe and a lot of it! She was able to swim lower in the tank more comfortably so i knew I had relieved some of the issue. I know this is not where the swim bladder is supposed to be, but does it move? I have noticed after all attempts of treatment and not working that supportive care is the only thing left. I just wanted to make sure this was for sure the swim bladder, the fish is defecating on a normal basis. It's very difficult to find any info beyond basic husbandry and more on veterinary aspects. Thanks for any information.
Casey
<Hello Casey. The commonest cause of "floaty, bloaty Goldfish" as Bob calls it is poor diet. Goldfish are adapted to be herbivorous, and do best given a fibre-rich diet. Pellets and flake are nutritionally complete in most regards, but lack the indigestible matter that helps keep their intestines ticking over nicely. When Goldfish, especially fancy Goldfish (which have deformed spines and displaced swim bladders anyway), become constipated, their centres of mass and buoyancy aren't where they should be. Normally the centre of buoyancy would be vertically above the centre of mass (imagine a hot air balloon with the wicker basket, the weight, hanging vertically below the air-filled bag, which is the buoyancy, and you'll have an accurate analogy). Lumps of faeces in the intestine shift the centre of mass one way or the other, and like an unbalanced boat, this causes the Goldfish to roll over, sometimes even upside-down, because the laws of physics state the centre of mass MUST be vertically below the centre of buoyancy, at least when the Goldfish isn't actively trying to swim or otherwise correct its posture. The fix isn't too difficult: a combination of high fibre and Epsom salt does the trick nine times out of ten. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/gldfshmalnut.htm
Note that you want to stop using any foods other than fresh greens for the duration, and once the fish recovers, keep using the fresh greens liberally to prevent constipation in the future. Not all "floaty, bloaty Goldfish" have problems swimming because of constipation, so do also review their other key requirements, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/goldfish101art.htm
Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>

Goldfish with peeling lip      12/17/13
Hi-
<Holli>
I've attached a pic of a goldfish that looks like the skin is peeling only on his upper lip.
<... apparently some sort of infection/decomposition... from? Physical damage? Environmental issue/s? You offer no useful data... System, tankmates, foods/feeding, water quality... >
  He's fine everywhere else as are the other three goldfish in the tank. 
This has been going on for several months as I thought since no one else had any symptoms it might clear up on its own. 
Any thoughts on what might be causing this?  Thanks very much for any help.
  Holli
<.... Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshdisease.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

What's happening to my goldfish? Floaty, bloaty    11/2/13
My gold fish is about 2 yrs old, has lived in a 4ft tank with 3 other goldfish for over a yr. Then three days ago this happened (see photos - sorry about floatly bits was fed 5 mins ago) and I removed her from the tank and put her in a smaller separate tank using water from the big tank but I have had to use a clean internal filter as that's all I had available. I know that's no ideal but I didn't want the other fish to gang up on her.
The big tank has an external filter and normal levels of nitrate etc...
which I get checked at an aquatic store every 2 months. All the other fish seem fine at the moment but I'm keeping an eye open in case they get this too.
Does any know what might be happening to my fish?
Thank you
Tara
<... yes. Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm
And the linked files above. As you'll find, more roundish sports of GF are subject to this condition... Bob Fenner>

Do you know what's wrong? GF, need info.      10/23/13
Hi my name is Stacy and this is my goldfish Skips I have had him for about two weeks and I noticed last night this white circle on him I did research and didn't see anything that really looked like it he acts normal and still eats everyday the white spot is not a bump it's flat almost like his scales got pulled off and I'm not sure if I should be really worried or not I attached some pictures to the email in hopes it could help identify what's wrong thank you.
<...? What re the system; is it cycled? Water quality? Have you read on WWM re goldfish health? This damaged area may be infected... but can't tell w/o information. Bob Fenner>

sick Oranda.. & repro. f'      9/20/13
Hello.
<Jan>
I was wondering if you could give me some advice on my female Oranda,.. I have had her for 9 years,, She as been well up to about 4 days ago..  I noticed she shed some eggs, then after that day she hasn't eaten  and has this long white stringy looking skin type of poo tube.. But with no poo in it......The stringy thing releases after a day or so then it starts to come out again.........
<Part of the egg shedding; not to worry>

 I took her out of the tank to see if she had anyhting stuck in her throat.
But there is nothing....She is swimming and breathing Ok. But my worry  is she is not eating...... it has now been five days.... As I picked her up I noticed a creamy white substance coming out of her bottom..........
<Nor re this>
 I have spoken to  two different people at different fish stores. One said she may have a tumour and I should euthanise her............
<What? No>

The other said she could be going through a healing process after spawning because of her age...... and  If  she's not eating in  7 days use salt....
Which he didn't really recommend''..
<Perhaps a modicum of Epsom. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/SaltUseFWArtNeale.htm
I hope you can help me I don't really want to lose her.........
<Certainly>
Thank you Jan Barker..........
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: sick Oranda..   9/22/13

Dear Bob.
I want to thank you for your very useful information.. It's nice to know there are people like you out there.
If I had taken notice of my so called fish expert friend at  the pond shop... My lovely girl would be dead now. She has started to eat a little thank goodness I have been putting fry food in the  water and she must have
been getting some goodness from it.. The pooless tube is still coming out of
her bottom... Do you have any idea how long this can go on for ??? and is it
doing her harm.......
<A few more days and no harm whatsoever. There are some folks (even here) that might suggest using a modicum of salt/s; but I would do nothing here period>
Thank you again, I am most grateful..
Jan Barker.
<Glad to set your mind to ease. Cheers, BobF>

Re My fish     9/30/13
Dear Bob
<Hey Jan>
I wanted to send you  a picture  of my now  well, lovely Oranda... At least I think she is  an Oranda I got her in a mixed bunch 9 years ago as a baby....
I was very grateful for your useful information..
<Ahh!>
Imagine putting that lovely face in the freezer as,,, My so called expert fish keeper suggested.
Thank you again .Jan Barker..........
<Life to you my friend. BobF>

Injured goldfish    9/12/13
Hi-
I have two Goldfish, we have had them for 6 years next month.  They are in a 30 gallon tank with 2 filters running.
<Good to have redundancy>
 On Monday morning one of our dining room chairs fell back ( less than a foot) and bumped the tank, not too hard but hard enough.  It scared my orange fish so badly.  She started flailing all over the tank so fast ,swimming as fast as she could, slamming into the walls, rocks from the bottom were flying all over the filter lid flew off... it was awful!  It was only for maybe 5 seconds, but seemed like forever.  Right after she went sideway, and belly up.  Slowly but surely she recovered, but her breathing remained extremely high for hours.  She scraped some of her scales and now both of her eyes have a clear bubble on them. 
<Physical damage>
She isn't moving about the tank much and doesn’t seem to be eating, even the other fish doesn’t seem to be eating  I immediately added Melafix
<Worthless... see WWM re>
to the water for her scales, and I hope this was ok to do.  The tank seems to smell really weird now ??
<Yes; the API "tea"... may interrupt nitrification (do check for ammonia, nitrite), poisoning your fish>

 I am having trouble finding info about this eye condition,
<Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GFEyeTroubleF.htm
 I keep finding bubble eye goldfish with a condition.  Is there anything I can do to help?
<Yes; patience and good care... optimal, stable water quality (change water a few times now to remove the "tea"), and nutrition>
 Does this mean she is blind?
<Doubtful; no>
 I thought I found something about adding Epson Salt to the tank to draw out the liquid??
<Salts can be of use... see Neale's work on WWM re>
 Is there anything I can do to help???
<As stated... I'd have you review as much of what is posted on WWM re GF as possible... You list nothing re foods, feeding, nor water quality... so could only guess here. Read>
 Any info is greatly appreciated.  Thank you so much~
Michelle
>Welcome, Bob Fenner>

Need help for Goldfish (Fantail)     9/4/13   RMF's go
Hello friends,
<Shami>
I rescued a goldfish (Fantail?) last week, who was kept in a tiny bowl. I have a spare tank of ~150L that I cleaned up and put the goldfish in it. I also have a small power head filter that I installed in the tank.
<Ah good>
Although, the filter is pretty small and I have tried to minimize the flow (by adding carbon strips at the inlet/outlets), she has a difficult time in swimming. She seems to be losing the balance and gets sucked towards the filter. So, I keep the filter on for an hour in the morning and then another hour in the evening. I change ~20% water every day.
<Sounds good>
I think she is unwell, because her poop is clear (transparent) with (sometimes) bubbles in it, and floats at the top of the tank.
<Mmm, what are you feeding this fish? Likely the slowness, lack of swimming ability is just a "left over" from the bowl experience previously. The fish will strengthen in time in your good care>
I kept her on fast for two days and then gave her a couple of tiny blanched peas, which she ate with not much interest. I have kept her on minimum diet (max 1 or 1.5 peas) once a day, but she seems to be pooping a lot. For the past few days, I have observed long strings in the poop (not clear/transparent but like a thin long white cotton thread).
<... I would start this fish on a good staple... pellet-based; Hikari or Spectrum or equivalent. At least offered twice a day>
Based on my limited experience and online searches, I think she may either be constipated, or may have internal parasites. I am attaching a picture, but I am not sure it that will help.
<This fish looks okay macroscopically, though mal-nourished>
My questions are:
1. Most of the times, she sits under the filter and does not move much. I do not think this is normal. Is it?
<It is; considering the recent past>
2. She has been fasting for 4 days now. How long before I stop feeding her peas, and start with Hikari (I have Hikari for cichlids).
<Immediately>
3. Since I have never kept goldfishes before, I feel the stomach is bloated. But then looking at other pictures, they all seems to have bigger bellies. Can you see anything wrong from the picture?
<Nothing wrong here. The sport/mutation of Fantail (goldfish) is supposed to "look bloated". See WWM re goldfish varieties for pix>
4. There seems to be no consensus about what temperature to keep a goldfish at. From wwm website, I see that it is okay not to have a heater if the temperature does not drop below 18 degree Celsius. I stay in southern India, and the temperature is usually between 15-25 (right now it is 21). I do have a spare heater. Should I install it? What temperature?
<I would install the heater (to limit how low/fast the temp. drops. I'd set it for 72 F/22 C>
5. Should I get her friends? How many do they school with?
<I'd wait on adding other life here... Do read on WWM re goldfish compatibility re suitable tankmates in the meanwhile>
Thanks.
Shami.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Need help for Goldfish (Fantail)     9/4/13

Hey Bob,
<Hi Shami>
Thanks! From your answers, it seems that over the time she will get better.
<Ah yes>
I am just hoping that I will be able to switch on the filter throughout the day soon.
<Understood>
It is always nice talking to you.
<Cheers my/our friend. BobF>
Shami.

Need help for Goldfish (Fantail)   Neale's go    9/4/13
Hello friends,
<Shami,>
I rescued a goldfish (Fantail?) last week, who was kept in a tiny bowl. I have a spare tank of ~150L that I cleaned up and put the goldfish in it. I also have a small power head filter that I installed in the tank.
Although, the filter is pretty small and I have tried to minimize the flow (by adding carbon strips at the inlet/outlets), she has a difficult time in swimming. She seems to be losing the balance and gets sucked towards the filter. So, I keep the filter on for an hour in the morning and then another hour in the evening. I change ~20% water every day.
<Hmm... the problem with switching off filters is that the bacteria will die. So either have a filter running 24 hours a day, or else replace with a more suitable unit, e.g., an air-powered filter.>
I think she is unwell, because her poop is clear (transparent) with (sometimes) bubbles in it, and floats at the top of the tank.
I kept her on fast for two days and then gave her a couple of tiny blanched peas, which she ate with not much interest. I have kept her on minimum diet (max 1 or 1.5 peas) once a day, but she seems to be pooping a lot. For the past few days, I have observed long strings in the poop (not clear/transparent but like a thin long white cotton thread).
Based on my limited experience and online searches, I think she may either be constipated, or may have internal parasites. I am attaching a picture, but I am not sure it that will help.
My questions are:
1. Most of the times, she sits under the filter and does not move much. I do not think this is normal. Is it?
<If a fish is weak, yes, it will rest somewhere with gentle current.>
2. She has been fasting for 4 days now. How long before I stop feeding her peas, and start with Hikari (I have Hikari for cichlids).
<I would not worry about feeding for at least two weeks. Concentrate on swimming and balance. Peas are a good food for Goldfish, at least in the short term. Apart from peas, add Epsom salt... 1-3 teaspoons per 5 gallons/20 litres.>
3. Since I have never kept goldfishes before, I feel the stomach is bloated. But then looking at other pictures, they all seems to have bigger bellies. Can you see anything wrong from the picture?
<No, looks okay. No sign of Dropsy anyway.>
4. There seems to be no consensus about what temperature to keep a goldfish at. From wwm website, I see that it is okay not to have a heater if the temperature does not drop below 18 degree Celsius. I stay in southern India, and the temperature is usually between 15-25 (right now it is 21). I do have a spare heater. Should I install it? What temperature?
<Ambient temperature in India will be fine, provided the tank is not in direct sunlight (anything over 30 C would be stressful).>
5. Should I get her friends? How many do they school with?
<For now, keep singly. Once moving about and happy, yes, Goldfish do well with similar breeds (mixing breeds can be tricky because some stronger varieties bully weaker varieties).>
Thanks.
Shami.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Need help for Goldfish (Fantail)    9/4/13

Neale,
<Shami,>
Thanks for the answers! Actually, yesterday Bob Fenner replied, too. He suggested that I can start with the feeding immediately. So I fed her mere two (2) pellets of Hikari this morning, and when came back from office, I found her having hard time to maintain balance. Her tail seems to be going up (due to gases?), while the head remains low. After few hours, she settled down in a corner and is slightly stable now.
<I personally wouldn't feed, or at least would stick with plants; a clump of "pondweed" (e.g., Elodea) or even blanched lettuce would be good.>
I think, as you already said, I will have to stop feeding her anything for next few days. I will add the Epsom salt over the weekend, when I am at home to observe her.
<Real good. It's a very safe treatment.>
And, yes, I need to install an air filter (I think I have one somewhere in the storage). But if I do decide to install the heater, what temperature should it be working at?
<Goldfish do well between 18-25 degrees C, so in warm homes the use of heaters is not needed.>
Thanks again.
Shami.
<Most welcome, Neale.>

Fish sitting on bottom; GF rdg.     7/24/13
Hi!!  I have 2 goldfish.  They have been together for close to 10 years, and currently are being kept in a 50 gallon tank and have been in it for 6+ years.  Recently one of them has started to sit on the bottom of the tank, clamping it's fins, sucking in tank water, only leaving the bottom to suck air from the top of the tank.  Sometimes she goes into a log in the
tank and doesn't come out the entire day.  The other fish is not acting any differently.  I change the water monthly.
<I'd change some every week. See WWM re maintenance of GF systems>
 The chemistry strip I ran was normal for nitrates,
<... need real numbers>

nitrites, and pH.  I don't know if I need to add more oxygen?
<Doubtful... as the one fish is fine; both would be mal-affected>
  I have 3 air stones but with the way she is gasping in the water, I don't know if that is enough.
<Not a gas-diffusion issue; but very likely water quality. See above re water changes>
 When she does go to the top, she seems to have trouble staying upright, tending to lean to a either side.  I have only been feeding them goldfish pellets twice a week
<Poor... should be fed at least once daily; better more frequently, small/er amounts...>

 since they never seem hungry.  Any suggestions to help her get back to her normal fishy self would be very much appreciated :)
Thanks,
Amy
<Are you able to use the search feature on WWM? Bob Fenner>
Re: Fish sitting on bottom, GF       8/22/13

I took your suggestions and looked around some more on your website as well as increasing my water changes.
<Ah good>
 I did see that the original tests that I did showed the NO3 at 40 mg/L, which is at the high end of normal.
<Yes; I'd keep this under 20 ppm. Means of doing so are gone over and over on WWM>
 NO2 was 0 mg/L, GH was 150ppm, KH was 180 ppm, pH was 7.5 and ammonia was 0mg/L.
<These values are fine/good>

 With the more frequent water changes...I have started to do a 15% change twice a week in the hopes of lowering the No3... 
<I'd increase the percentage by twice, some 30%; and look into other methods of reducing [NO3]>>
after 4 water changed I got the NO3 down to 20, NO2 stays at 0, as does the ammonia.
<Ahh, very good indeed>
I have continued with the more frequent water changes, but the NO3 seems to have stalled around 20 on the dip strip. 
<Mmm, do see WWM re pH testing. Am not a fan of strips. A simple liquid colorimetric assay would be much better... more accurate, useful>
No matter how little or frequently I feed them, they don't show any interest in eating, so I am removing food after 5 minutes every time. 
<Good>
The fish does not seem to be improving at all, in fact, just this morning I noticed that she seems to have gotten significantly fatter seemingly over night, to the point where her scales are
starting to stick out.
<Patience; these "things take time"... You might read re the use of Epsom Salt... very safe, quite often effective>
 Up until this point, I was going on the assumption that the water quality was poor and the water changes would eventually lead to improvement, but this does not seem to be what is happening.
Thank you!
Amy
<Do stay in touch; write back w/ your questions, concerns; and further observations. Bob Fenner>

Oranda with curved spine(RMF, thoughts?) <<Same as before... env., genetic>>    3/2/13
Hi Crew:  
<Hello again Gina,>
My 10 year old Oranda has slowly developed a curvature to her spine- it is close to the base of her tail and it causes her to preferentially swim in circles in the direction of the curve. It is a gentle curve- not an injury and has been developing over a year. My water is as follows:
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 10
PH ranges throughout the year from 8.5 to 9.2

<This is very high… likely a factor. Goldfish like hard water to be sure, 10-25 degrees dH is fine, but the pH should be no higher than 8.5, and ideally around 7.5-8.0. Is there any way you can mix your tap water with RO or rainwater, maybe 50/50?>
RedOx is waayyy too high at 356
I feed the fish home made gel food with stabilized vitamin C, Spirulina, carrot, spinach, kale, red pepper, zucchini, shelled peas, garlic, yam, salmon fillet, acidophilus powder, kelp powder. All veg are organic and are steamed in bottled water then blended and then vitamins, gelatin etc..  added.
<In and of itself, organic doesn't mean a good diet, but the range of foods you're offering is very wide, so I think we can rule out dietary shortcomings, a very common reason for developmental abnormalities.>
I have a probe in the water to ground stray voltage. All the traditional causes do not seem to apply. The fish also has floatation issues but only immediately after she eats- she starts to float right away and is back to normal about half an hour later.
<Which points the finger here at changes to the shape of the digestive tract and/or position of the swim bladder brought about by the spinal curvature. As food moves along the digestive tract, centre of mass changes, while centre of buoyancy stays constant, so the orientation of the fish will change.>
I can't find anything that seems a likely cause unless I am not providing adequate nutrition with the home made food or there is a persistent bacterial infection. The fish does have a very mushy belly near the vent- I have tried 10 days worth of Baytril intraperitoneal injections which did nothing but stress me out every time I had to inject the fish (the fish was fine with it all). I use home made food because the fish is so large that I can't find a suitable sized sinking pellet. Any advice or suggestions would be very much appreciated.
<There really isn't any advice here. Spinal deformities are impossible to treat. Indeed, you may not need to treat, assuming the fish is otherwise happy, e.g., can feed adequately and doesn't get picked on by its tankmates. Maintain good water quality, ensure a good diet, and generally keep an eye on this fish for any signs of suffering.>
I religiously maintain the tank with 2 x weekly water changes (about 25% with Prime treated water that has say for a couple days). I have a serious problem with brown algae- not sure why but all 4 of my tanks are rife with it and I have trouble controlling it. I am not sure if this ties in but I thought I would mention it just in case….
<Algae doesn't normally cause health problems for fish, but rampant algae can indicate problems with water quality and/or water chemistry. Review these, and act accordingly. Given how high the pH is in your tanks, I do suspect water chemistry is a factor. Can't comment on the specifics without at least knowing your general hardness (degrees dH) and ideally the carbonate hardness (degrees KH) as well.>
Thank you!
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Oranda with curved spine (RMF, thoughts?)<<>>   3/10/13

<<The usual: genetics likely, perhaps pathogenic disease, nutrition...>>
Thank you Neale- great to hear from you- your advice is always invaluable!
<Thanks for the kind words.>
As a matter of fact I do have an Vertex Aquaristik 100 gallon-per-day RO unit available- it is not operational but after your reply I promptly ordered a new membrane and cartridges and just installed them tonight. 
<I see.>
When I used it before, it was only reducing the pH to about 7.8 at best (I guess that it better than what it is at right now).
<And well within the comfort zone for Goldfish, which do best between pH 7 and 8.>
I had also purchased a pressure tank that was specifically made to hold RO water. I stopped using it as the membrane became damaged and to be honest, I was not sure how to properly use RO in a freshwater tank. I had been mixing it at a 50/50 ratio with tap water (which brought the pH down to about 8).
<Which is fine and usually safe.>
I had some concerns about the aggressiveness of RO water and was not sure why my pH was still so high after filtering.
<Removing some of the dissolved minerals rarely lowers the pH below 7, what it tends to do is lower the pH from 8 or 8.5 down towards pH 7.5. If you remove all the minerals you should get around pH 7, but stably acidifying the water to, say, pH 6.5, is a whole other thing. You need to add an "acid buffer" for that, and unless you're breeding soft water fish, it's not worth the effort. Halving the hardness of VERY hard water is, on the other hand, a very good idea, even if the pH doesn't seem to go all that low.>
I used a 50/50 mix of RO to tap as I wasn't certain if it was safe to use straight RO.
<Never use straight RO water. Always mix with some hard tap water unless you have the knowledge and skills to add appropriate soft water buffering salts (often sold as Amazon buffer or Discus buffer).>
The high pH of the RO filtered water seems to suggest that the water is still quite mineralized but without sending a sample to the lab I don't know if the proper minerals are present.
<Indeed.>
I currently sit my tank change water in a 205 litre holding tank that is made of food-grade plastic but it is not safe for RO water. I tried to find a 205 litre container that was RO safe but they would be a special construct and very expensive. I believe that remineralizing the water would make it safe to sit in the container, but again, I am not sure if this is even necessary.
<Storing RO water in food-safe containers should not be a problem. Or, as Bob would say, "read, don't write…"
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rostorage.htm
This has been gone into many times, here and elsewhere.>
Regarding remineralization, I have Wondershells and Seachem Replenish that I purchased along with the RO unit for the purpose of remineralizing the water if needed.
<Wondershells are pointless if you [a] already have moderately hard to hard water and [b] are keeping hard water fish. All they are is lumps of calcium carbonate that slowly dissolve, raising the carbonate hardness (KH). If your KH is above, say, 5 degrees KH, this isn't needed.>
I don't know currently the degrees dH of my tap water as my test kit is not working for some reason- I added 50 drops of the reagent and no colour change.
<Seems to be you have no general hardness. Do try again though, or have your retailer test a water sample for you.>
The last time I tested (about a year ago) it was 9 degrees. The KH of my tap water is 6 to 7.
<So, moderate carbonate hardness; fine for Goldfish.>
I have been using Phosguard to try to reduce phosphorus in the water- I suspect my algae problem may be in part to the homemade food as it breaks down in the tank quickly if the fish misses a piece and this is one of the reasons I do twice weekly water changes with gravel vacuuming. I bought a RedOx meter which shows a reading of about 350- my admittedly vague understanding of RedOx and goldfish is that ideal RedOx is in the order of -110. In short, I know my water chemistry is off and I think that I have the components I need to correct it but my know-how is shaky! I am going to flush out the new filters and then I will test the kH and pH of the RO water- if it needs to be remineralized I would be interested to know what products you suggest and if I am on the right track with the RO water.
<Would suggest no products…  just reading. Start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2oqualfaqs1.htm
…and follow the links.>
Gina
PS you gave me advice a couple years ago on a small, weak little black moor and I am pleased to report that he is still very much alive and quite a bit larger now!
<Ah, good to know! Neale.>
Re: Oranda with curved spine (Bob, am I being unfair to Goldies?)    6/30/13

Hi Neale:
<Gina,>
Flash forward to the end of June- the Oranda is still upright and is still voraciously hungry but half way through the Baytril treatments she began to pinecone (that was about a month ago). I was surprised that she developed Dropsy in the middle of treatment, especially since the Baytril had worked to stop her from bobbing around upside down at the top of the tank. The vet ordered some Oxytetracycline to try- one intramuscular injection every week for three weeks. It helps for 2 days after the injection (the scales flatten and the swelling reduces noticeably) but then the Ascites returns.
Her gills are still a healthy red colour. Oddly enough her wen has been growing like crazy the last few months- she looks great except for the swelling and the scales.
I am armed with 1/2 dozen bottles of clove oil if she shows signs of being in pain (which I assume will translate into not eating and being inactive) but I am heartbroken at the thought of euthanizing this very much-loved 10 year old fish.
I have the tank temperature at 30 degrees and I reduced the water level, added a second Eheim canister filter and another powerhead. I have 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons of Epsom salt in the tank. I'm not sure if this is in any way relevant but I don't have any aquarium lighting (haven't had for about 8 months since I had a fire scare with a canopy-style light removed them from service in all my tanks): I am saving for better and safer lights.
Right now the fish is not on antibiotics as her last Oxytetracycline injection was a week ago. I have gel food with Kanamycin and Metronidazole in it but have not used it since I am worried about their effect on the kidneys. I have been changing 50% of the tank water twice a week.
Have I really tried everything?
<Yes. I think you are doing all you can. At some point it becomes a cost/benefit calculation, and if the fish remains sickly, and especially if it isn't interested in feeding or socialising, it may well be time to "call it a day".>
I am having a hard time trying to reconcile the fact that I am probably going to lose her in the next month or so and knowing that I have done everything I can will help.
Thank you, Neale:
Gina
<Sorry we can't offer any silver bullets here Gina; do think you're doing your best for this fish, especially with regard to help from the vet. Hope things improve though! Regards, Neale.>

Sick Goldfish     2/22/13
<More than 3 megs in image... why?>
Hello,
I was wondering if you could help me or direct me to an article that will help. I have been searching for an answer since Saturday without luck. I have two Shubunkin fish in a 60 gallon tank. I have had them for only two years and they go in my 75 gallon pond in the summer. The 60 gallon has been running for 7 months and it reads 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and <5ppm nitrates.
<Good>
The canister filter is made for up to 100 gallons, there is gravel on the bottom, a bubble makers, silk plants and driftwood in the tank. (Please see attached picture of better times)
<Looks very nice>
 I change 15 gallons of water out every Saturday and vacuum half of the gravel. After last Saturday's water change I noticed one  of the fish acting strange. His fins were close to his body and he was not as energetic as usual. I recently started feeding them spectrum brand food for goldfish,
<An excellent food. Is what I use for my fancies>
 but have been feeding them blanched lettuce, cucumbers and peas since Sunday. Two days ago he started hanging at the bottom of the tank. He comes up to eat and sometimes for a swim. In these swims he bangs his head against the tank and acts erratic.   Do you have any advice?
<Mmm, to be patient; keep on the schedule you describe. I suspect that maybe this one fish has "swallowed a bug" that may have fallen into the tank... Or is "just going through a phase". At any length, due to the other fish being fine, and the description of your water quality, system, and maintenance routine, I doubt there is something overall wrong w/ the environment here>
Also, is there an effective way to keep my 60 gallon cycled in the summer months when the fish are in the pond?
<Yes... leave all gear running, add a pinch of dried food, a few pellets, once a week to the system>
Thank you so much for your time and for this extremely useful website.  You have all been my heroes on more than one occasion.
Michelle
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Sick Goldfish  2/22/13
Patients happens to be my middle name.
<Hopefully you mean/t patience; but an excellent trait/quality>
Thank you for your advice, it is appreciated.
<Certainly welcome. BobF>
Re: Sick Goldfish

Yes, patience indeed. When my fish is better, I will work on my grammar. :)
Take care, Michelle
<Thank you, B>

Re: Sick Goldfish     3/1/13
Hello again,
My goldfish friend didn't make it. He died five days ago and now the other goldfish is going through the exact same thing. He is Hanging out at the bottom most of the day and night. He currently has his head buried in between two rocks. Any suggestions?
<Only further speculations, sans data...>
If not, do you think euthanizing him is the humane thing to do?
<Only you can decide>
 Watching the last one die was painful. It probably wasn't a walk in the park for him either.
When he dies, how do I ensure that the tank is safe for the new fish that I put in there?
<The best, bio-assay, is what you have been doing>
Thank you for your time,
Michelle
<Something may have been introduced here, in this system, that is toxic... Best to have you read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/GFEnvDisF8.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Sick Goldfish    3/2/13
Thank you for the link. The tank is empty now, but I did see two silver worm like creatures swimming around in there. I will investigate before I add more fish.
<Ahh, know that most of these worms, worm-like animals are innocuous. I would not over react, use a vermifuge>
Take care,
Michelle
<And you, BobF>

Need advice... data, reading...      1/16/13
I have a 13 year old comet goldfish that is sitting at bottom of 20 gallon tank,
<... this volume is likely too small...>

 normally he swims around in morning for food, today he isn't, I changed out some water all parameters are good,
<... meaning what? Need values, not subjective evaluations>

always has had low hardness, this is nothing unusual, but the rest are good, should I put salt or Epsom salt or what in tank, should I feed a pea?
<... Where to start here? Need data... let's have you read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/GFEnvDisF8.htm
and the linked files above to give you insight as to what we're looking for; the common mistakes (env.) made by folks keeping (esp. comet) goldfish. Bob Fenner>
Please let me know
Thanks
Cathy Hart
 Re: Need advice     1/16/13

the water test are normal ranges,
<?>

this is what I meant, I did notice that on top of his body near his dorsal fin ,there are tiny black spots that look like if you was to take his scale off, it would be on the scale, no where else on body, just there, look gray under light and darker without light, about 4 of them, what could this be and what do I do
<.... don't write: read. B>
Re: Need advice     1/16/13
I need help, I try to read those on your site, I cant understand what I am reading and a lot of time I keep reading and it is not anything to do with my situation , what exactly should I read?? T
<... where you were referred initially...>
help, GF... lost again    1/17/13

would someone please help me with my goldfish I cant find anything to read I need some answers I sent previous mail about how he has been all day he
usually starts morning by swimming around looking for food today he just sit in corner I did several water changes at one point I added tsp salt
<Why?>
then removed it, I changed one filter he list to one side when he gets up to swim swims okay but has list what can I do to help him, I fed him and he
ate
thanks cathy
<Hello Cathy. Did you read the e-mail I sent you last time around? We do need information about your aquarium. Almost certainly the problem is with
his environment, so without knowing tank size, water quality and water chemistry we can't pin down the precise problem. Meantime, read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/goldfish101art.htm
Most problems with Goldfish come from keeping them in an aquarium that's too small for them. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: help

I have read this,
<So what differences are there between your aquarium and the aquarium we recommended? What about differences in care, diet, water chemistry…?>
I couldn't get any answers about my problem so I had to pay 38 dollars for a fish expert to tell me about nothing,
<?!?>
she said it sounds like it has black Ich, has 4 coin head size spots between head and top fin,
<Hmm… no. Let's be clear. Black Spot Disease is caused by parasites that normally live in ponds and require animals such as birds to complete their life cycle. So while you can buy Goldfish with Black Spot Disease, it cures itself pretty much every time once the Goldfish are moved indoors. Black Spot Disease is like Whitespot in appearance, except the spots are black. The spots are teeny-tiny, smaller than salt grains. What you're describing sounds more like ammonia burns. These are irregular black, grey or dark greenish-grey patches on Goldfish. The patches are of variable size, though typically fingernail-size. Obviously ammonia burns are caused by ammonia in the water, so wherever you see ammonia burns on Goldfish, you're looking at Goldfish that are kept in a tank that's too small and/or under-filtered. Fix the environment, and the ammonia burns will heal in time. No other treatment is needed unless the wounds become infected, in which case Finrot or Fungus are common problems.>
also swims funny or sits in corner, I have always told you he has been in 20 gallon tank alone and you tell me no,
<We/I don't remember the size of every aquarium from everyone who e-mails me! That'd be thousands of tanks! In any event: 20 gallons is too small. Upgrade or rehome this fish for something suitable for 20 gallons, such as Danios.>
he has always been fine in this,
<He was smaller before. As he grows, he produces more ammonia, needs more oxygen and acidifies the aquarium faster between water changes. Eventually a tipping point is reached, and a tank that worked when your Goldfish was a youngster stops being safe or viable any longer. Nothing new here. The vast majority of Goldfish kept in tanks 20 gallons or smaller die prematurely, and I'm meaning something like 95% of them, if not more. Virtually all those unfortunately Goldfish "flushed" after a few months, couple of years come from tanks 20 gallons or smaller. No science here, and no need for you to experiment with a 20-gallon tank. You need 30+ US gallons for Goldfish, or if you're stuck with 20 gallons, choose suitable fish like Danios, Platies and Corydoras.>
swims well no problems, he don't see so well so he doesn't seem to mind it, I clean 3 gallons out every 4 days and only add stress coat, he eats pellets and some flakes, water is good except for hardness but has always been like this, something else is wrong, I know how my fish acts. Tey told me to use either jungle parasite clear or preferred tetra lifeguard, I am not sure which one to use, don't really feel happy with what they said, black Ich, how would it get that??
Thanks again
Cathy
<Hope this clears things up. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: help

I must not have gotten emai about needing all that info, I just need to know how to help a fish that is listing when he swims, how to tell if its constipation, swim bladder or parasites, like the just answer told me to treat??? if any of these how do I treat them, I cant find that in your site, specific answers, I am about blind from reading for over 18 hours already searching for an answer
<Please read my previous email/emails. The problem is the environment.
Don't spend money on "fish experts" or pointless medicines; get a bigger aquarium with adequate, appropriate filtration. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: help...

I had someone tell me with a photo that didn't even look like my fish problem, that my fish has black Ich, I did many water changes last night until 3 am, he seems okay for now, my test kits might not be working right and at one point I couldn't even tell if the ammonia was up or in normal range.
<Ammonia is a tricky test kit. It should be zero, and ordinarily, anything above zero is bad news. The higher above zero, the quicker your fish will get sick and die. But ammonia test kits can return "false positives" if you use certain water conditioners. So, I'd test a sample of fresh tap water with water conditioner added, and then aquarium water, and see if they're different. If the aquarium water has a higher ammonia reading than the tap water, that means the tank is overstocked and/or under-filtered. In any case, I recommend you use a nitrite (with an "i", rather than nitrate with an "a") test kit either instead of ammonia or as well as ammonia. Again, any non-zero nitrite reading is bad.>
I wanted to ask another thing, Since he cant see well, I take sinking pellets after soaking and put them on the glass part of tank, (I move the gravel) I guide him to this area with a net, seems to always hit head area, could this be what might have caused these tiny black marks that look as they are on the scales , almost as if you could take them off if removing scale??
<Not sure I understand your question. Don't try to physically remove anything from your fish. Goldfish can find food perfectly well in opaque water, so blindness isn't much/any disability to them.>
Sorry for so many questions, I cant find anything about this is your pages
Cathy
<Welcome, Neale.>
Re: help

your kind and I am seeing ammonia now, never have before , don’t know what happened, he is old, wouldn’t he be as big as he is gonna be, after 13 yrs or so??
<Yes, pretty much. Fish grow continuously, from birth to death, but the rate at which they grow slows down dramatically as they age. Goldfish grow quickly for the first couples years, then growth slows down a lot, and they're about as big as they're going to be within 3-5 years depending on water temperature (they grow faster when kept warm). For an indoor "fancy" Goldfish like a Black Moor or Fantail, around 20 cm/8 inches is a good size for a specimen kept indoors.>
I am thinking something happened to biological filter, I changed them both out too soon in between and clean the gravel everytime I clean water, every 4 days, do you think I will be recycling again after 13 yrs in this tank?
<If filter is running and otherwise working normally, it shouldn't need to be "cycled" a second time. Give the filter media a decent rinse in a bucket of aquarium water, and maybe replace up to half the filter media if such media is so dirty it can't be cleaned. Cheers, Neale.>
Test kit

Wow this is interesting, I did what you said with the test kits, got water
from tap with stress coat in it and water from tank, the water from tap
showed ammonia
<Not uncommon. Ammonia is in many tap water supplies, especially in rural
areas; check with your water supplier for details and normal amounts.
Chloramine can deliver positive ammonia results too. Use a good water
conditioner that neutralises BOTH ammonia and Chloramine (alongside the
usual ammonia and copper) and you can normally ignore both of these
contaminants.>
and now water in tank is back normal, the nitrite is 0
<If nitrite is zero in the aquarium, and you have a biological filter, then
that's very good news, and suggests the aquarium is basically sound.>
I have a well, what on earth would there be ammonia in it from,
<Ammonia in drinking water comes from many sources, but run-off from farms
is a/the major one.>
and does using stress coat cause ammonia, this water was taken from a
gallon jug I had used some to put in tank, it already had stress coat in
it, it had sit overnight, not actually straight from tap but was when I put
it in last night, it is tap water that had a bit of stress coat in it, but
still am I adding ammonia to this tank when I change water?
<If you treat with a water conditioner that neutralises tap water ammonia,
then you can largely ignore this source of ammonia. Still, it's a good plan
to treat this water, and let it sit an hour or more before use so that the
ammonia can be fully neutralised (read the instructions on the water
conditioner). I'd also suggest more, smaller water changes so that any
exposure to ammonia is minimised. So two 10% water changes a week rather
than one 20% change. Cheers, Neale.>
Ammonia

Incredible, I just did another ammonia test on straight tap water (I have a well) and it read high ammonia, the test with the stress coat wasn’t as bad as straight from tap, am I putting water in tank with levels of ammonia this high, what can I do,I have been changing out water for two days in tank, oh I am scared now!
<Do see previous messages. Cheers, Neale.>
amquel

regarding the messages I sent about water and ammonia, I do have a bottle
of Amquel liquid, I have had it a year or two, I don't see expiration date
on it, should I use it instead of stress coat to remove ammonia from my tap
water? Or just leave it go as is, the tank water showed 0 and the tap water
shows ammonia?? I don't know how long amquel can last do you?? I bought it
a year or so ago?? Can it be used in tank water if there is already stress
coat in there?
<AmQuel is a good product for this sort of thing. If you've stored in a
cool, dark place it should be fine to use. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Test kit

I have dr tims one and only in tank along with stress coat, can I put some
prime in there too
<Prime is the ONLY product of these three you MUST use every time. It's a
water conditioner. One-and-Only is supposedly a bacteria supplement; it
probably doesn't work nearly as well as marketing suggests (most of these
non-refridgerated bacteria products seem pretty unreliable).  Stress Coat
is a useful aid when fish are damaged or, like yours, suffering ammonia
burns. But once the fish is healthy, it needn't be used.>
 it is still once again showing a bit of ammonia, I can tell when the fish
don't swim, I check and it is up .25
<The aim is zero ammonia. Don't feed while ammonia isn't zero. Improve
filtration and increase aquarium size. Frequent water changes can help, but
long-term, it's all about filtration and aquarium size. Cheers, Neale.>

bio sponge 1/18./2013
Hello again, I have an idea to remove this ammonia in the tank I changed out filters , something caused this to happen and fish is letting me know, I have 2 twenty gallon tanks on top of each other, on the bottom are two smaller comet goldfish , no ammonia and a loaded bio sponge, can I take it and switch it with the top one I have been talking about with one fish in it, his sponge is not so loaded so to speak, will there be any problems caused if I did this? Thank you again Cathy
<You can remove up to half of the mature biological filter media from an established aquarium and not cause problems. Remove filter media can indeed be used to "jump start" an immature or otherwise inadequate biological filter. The risk, of course, is transferring parasites from the donor aquarium to the recipient, so don't do this if the donor aquarium has problems of its own. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: bio sponge 1/19./2013
Thank you for all the help Neale, your kind and helpful especially when I need it most! Have a good weekend Cathy
<Glad to help. Good luck, Neale.
Re: Test kit 1/18/2013

Okay, I will use the prime, however I have had it for a year or so, does it expire?? I have a bit of stress coat in tank now, will it be okay if I still put prime in there, I have found my tap water has high ammonia in it!! Scary
<Like most household chemicals, if the water conditioner is kept in a cool, dark place it should be safe to use for at least a year, if not longer. Cheers, Neale.>

Spots 1/18./2013
Okay one more thing and I will try my best not to bother you anymore for now! I got a close look again tonight at my fish, I was explaining how he had these pin head sized black dots along top between head and fin, was told it is black Ich!??
<Black Ick disease is exclusively marine. If you have black spots on a freshwater fish, it's usually on pond fish infested with parasites that normally cause no harm and die out eventually. Of course if the environment is poor then any parasites, even normally harmless ones, can allow a fish to become weakened enough for secondary infections to set in.>
Anyhow I looked again tonight, he has some more and a few are a tiny bit bigger, in same area, now upon looking closer with what you explained to me about the scales, it does look more under the scales, what could this be, they are not big round spots, like I see in photos of ammonia burn Thank You again Cathy
<Do review the last few e-mails sent re: ammonia burns versus freshwater (pond fish) "Black Spot Disease" and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Spots 1/19./2013

Here is a photo of the spots on my goldfish, can you tell what it is, he is better acting but seems weak when he goes to eat he sorta leans over
Cathy
<Does look more like ammonia burns or simply a "change" in colour -- many non-pedigree Goldfish develop bronze-green patches as they age, somewhat like their wild ancestors. In any event, not Black Spot Disease. Cheers, Neale.>

goldfish withj ammonia burns

bio sponge 1/18./2013
Hello again, I have an idea to remove this ammonia in the tank I changed out filters , something caused this to happen and fish is letting me know, I have 2 twenty gallon tanks on top of each other, on the bottom are two smaller comet goldfish , no ammonia and a loaded bio sponge, can I take it and switch it with the top one I have been talking about with one fish in it, his sponge is not so loaded so to speak, will there be any problems caused if I did this? Thank you again Cathy
<You can remove up to half of the mature biological filter media from an established aquarium and not cause problems. Remove filter media can indeed be used to "jump start" an immature or otherwise inadequate biological filter. The risk, of course, is transferring parasites from the donor aquarium to the recipient, so don't do this if the donor aquarium has problems of its own. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: bio sponge 1/19./2013
Thank you for all the help Neale, your kind and helpful especially when I need it most! Have a good weekend Cathy
<Glad to help. Good luck, Neale.
Re: Test kit 1/18/2013

Okay, I will use the prime, however I have had it for a year or so, does it expire?? I have a bit of stress coat in tank now, will it be okay if I still put prime in there, I have found my tap water has high ammonia in it!! Scary
<Like most household chemicals, if the water conditioner is kept in a cool, dark place it should be safe to use for at least a year, if not longer. Cheers, Neale.>

two test... Folks who won't read, help themselves...chatting  1/21/13
Hello there, I need some help again, I did some test on different water
sources, I did tap shows ammonia, I did water treated with stress coat and
sit over night, ammonia, then I did tank again ammonia 0,25, I did ANOTHER
tank I have 2 comet goldfish in and it is 0 ammonia, Wow don't know what to
do, I took the loaded sponge from good tank a few days ago and traded it in
bad tank, I added 2 capfuls of dr tims one and only I had overnighted to
me! I am at a loss here, certainly must be why my bigger fish at top tank
is not acting good, Please help, I did 8-9 gallon water changes since last
wed, and am now afraid to do more, I had a bit of prime in a few days ago,
don't even know if I can use prime and stress coat together,
<Yes.>
I have to help him somehow! I added extra air stone , at a loss now!
Thanks so much
Cathy
<Put the test kits down. I suspect you're panicking more than you need to,
and the ammonia test kit is just adding to your confusion. Let's assume the
ammonia in the tap water is neutralised by the Prime (which is what should
happen if used properly). Stop feeding the fish. Do 20-25% water changes
every 1-2 days. Carry on like this for a week: no food, but regular water
changes. Then do a nitrite (not ammonia) test for each aquarium you have.
Dollars to donuts the nitrite value will be at or close to zero, which
means things are either okay or close to okay. Start feeding now, very
little, a flake as big as the eyeball of each fish is all it needs, once
per day. Do this for a week, doing your nitrite test every 1-2 days. If
nitrite is zero or close to zero, you can spread out your water changes to
every 3-4 days, and the following week, slightly increase the feeding, and
spread out water changes to once a week. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Test kit
one more thing in regard to last message, I let the test tube sit with
solution and water from good tank a bit longer then needed, it did turn to
0.25 does leaving them longer make any difference??
<Refer to the instructions that came with your test kit. It's been years
since I used an ammonia test kit, and I certainly don't know the brand
you're using (and it likely isn't sold in the UK anyway).>
I added another capful of one and only to bad tank, I don't know now what
tank is the bad tank!!
Thanks
Cathy
<Welcome, Neale.>
Re: two test
okay, now I have a good plan, will do this, yes the test kits are driving
me nuts, they are api test kits, I tested nitrite a few days ago and it was 0.
<Which is good news. Nitrite test kits are generally less likely to mislead
the aquarist than ammonia test kits.>
still gonna do as you say, so it is okay to do this much water changing
even though I have been doing some small ones every day for a week??
<Yes. Water changes will of course remove medicines added, but most
medicines last about 24 hours per dose before the filter removes them
anyway. So if you add medicine to your aquarium, do so AFTER any water
changes, and leave the next water change until the following day.
Otherwise, water changes do no harm -- ever -- if you keep water
temperature and water chemistry about the same. After all, a fish in a
river is swimming in new water all the time! Remember, the "good bacteria"
we rely upon as fishkeepers live in the filter, not the water.>
Is it okay to use all this with one and only that is already in tank??
Prime, one and only and stress coat??
<The One & Only is unlikely to do much good or bad either way, so don't
worry about it. To some extent, the same is true for the Stress Coat,
though it may help your ailing Goldfish a bit. The Prime is the one to take
seriously because you tap water contains ammonia (as well as chlorine and
likely chloramine) so use that precisely and exactly as described on the
bottle.>
Thanks for the ideas, gonna give them a go!
<Good luck, Neale.>
please be there

its 1 30 am here and I am desparetely trying to save my goldfish I was
mailing you about, I have the tap water with ammonia in it and I don't know
what else to do now,
<Have written, explained.>

he is starting to swim fast and as he does he goes to his side a lot, what
can I do??
<Do nothing. Don't panic. The fundamental problem as I've told you about a
dozen times now is the aquarium is too small.
Goldfish rarely do well or
live long in small tanks. For now, direct your energy into planning for a
30-gallon aquarium, and in the meantime, concentrate on making regular
small water changes. Add the Prime to neutralise ammonia (and chlorine and
chloramine). Make sure the temperature of new water is about the same as
the old water.>
Please help me I cant think anymore
<Which is not helpful. Read my messages and the articles you were directed
to.
Then think about what you've learned, and act (or not) accordingly.
Panicking won't help. I'm off to work now, so you'll be on your own for the
next few hours! Neale.>
Re: please be there 1/21/13

My old fish died , up all night trying to help him , I suppose I killed him
in trying, it is now 6 am here and cleaning up, I hope I did right, I cant
think what might have happened, the other tank has same ammonia as top and
always has now that I think about it, I don't think ammonia killed him,
<Non-zero ammonia levels, if untreated, can/will kill. But if nitrite
levels were zero, and you know the ammonia comes from the tap water, then
treating with suitable water conditioner should remove this risk factor.>
cant imagine what the black marks and only marks he had on him would have
been,
<Me neither.>
thanks to Neale and everyone else for your help, you don't know how
important it is to be able to talk to someone when needed
Thanks again
Cathy
<Most welcome, Neale.>

re: Question, more chatting re GF, sans reading   - 1/25/13
Hi there,
<Cathy>
After desperately trying to help my large goldfish of 13 yrs or so and
failed.
<Sorry to hear that.>
 After he died, I started paying more attention to my smaller common (I
think) not fancy goldfish in the other 20 tank, I changed water today , 3
gallons,
<Might need to change more. How big were/are the two fish?>
 I did have health dept test water for me, they called to day and said I
have .11 ammonia in water,
<Tank or tap?>
My test are still showing 0.25 in my tank, I have a little ammonia
indicator in there says its good, its an API water test kit, The water
people are coming on Monday to see what is wrong and what can be done if
anything,
<Shouldn't have any ammonia in the tank at all.>
most likey first thing will get new softener as this one is 30 yrs old, My
NITRITES are always 0, does this mean I am okay,
not to worry,
<Not really.>
that the fish might be producing the ammonia or it came from tap and will
convert and due to water change??
<Either could explain.>
Maybe I do too many, I do them about every 4 days and take out 2.5 gallons
each time.
<No, frequent water changes are beneficial. If anything, I'd say you aren't
changing enough water. I usually do between a quarter and a third of the
tank volume.>
 I add stress coat. I have a well. the thing that bothers me and I was
thinking I have a fish with digestive issues as he always sits at top
looking out toward me but sits up there over where the filter is, not under
it but in front of it toward front but horizontally on top of water,
sometimes he swims with jerky motion to bottom unless I drop a pea in there
and all of a sudden he swims like normal looking for the pea,
<Could be an oxygen deficiency. A digestion issue would likely manifest
itself in bloating.>
 The concern came when I seen the other going to top a few times after
changing water, I didn't think much of it with the one that is always at
top until the other did it
any suggestions,
<You definitely need to find out where the ammonia is coming from and
address it. Live plants like java moss or java fern might be enough to
absorb 0.25 PPM.>
Thanks
Cathy
<Welcome--Rick>
 In reference to last question and problems I am having with ammonia in tap
water and nitrites 0 but still showing ammonia in tank at 0.25 after water
change today, I think it is always this reading, but have been doing a lot
of reading on filters,
<I don't understand what you are reading. How are you doing the testing?>
 I have a 40 whisper on a twenty tank, I also have a very old bio wheel
never changed wheel, but I did notice the flow is slower then it was years
and years ago.
<It should have a good stable colony of beneficial bacteria to help convert
the ammonia to nitrate.
Even if I didn't have that biowheel, shouild the rated 40 whisper filter be
enough for surface agitation along with a 5 inch airstone, does any of this
have an affect on ammonia in water?
<With the airstone, certainly. Has no impact on ammonia other than as I
described above. - Rick>
Then there is the media from these filters, Here is the record I have of
the changes to them alternately
 whisper filter 10/18/12
bio filter 11/5/12
then latest
whisper filter 12/3/12
bio filter 12/28/12
Any thoughts on this, could it be a problem , I thought with established
tank that the last one with just 3 weeks between them would be okay to do?
Thanks '
Cathy
<I only change my filer media when it physically starts becoming
ineffective. I just rinse it in tank water with every water change and put
it back. This keeps the bacterial colony at full strength and it costs a
whole lot less, too. You might be causing mini cycle crashes changing that
often, but you are keeping the manufacturer happy.  Shampoo only says
lather-rinse-repeat because it uses twice as much.  - Rick>
would using some ammonia removing zeolite crystals help, I have a little
bag that I got with them I can put them in and hang somewhere in tank??
<As a short-term solution, sure.  Drop it into the filter if there's enough
room, otherwise try to put it somewhere there is current, like under the
waterfall from the filter or above the airstone. Zeolite is not a long-term
answer, but it will buy you time. - Rick>
<Your questions are easily answered by your simply searching the Net. Bob Fenner>

Subject: New Life Spectrum
ok, I found the new life spectrum food, Which one is best for old goldfish,
they have several kinds?? Also what is new life spectr thera a?? can I use
both of the regular and thera a?? I am glad they have sinking pellets!
Thanks
Goldfish food

Hello  I have been on here talking a lot lately of my common or comet goldfish I have with a loss of my biggest one a week ago, I am trying to do
my best for the ones I have left, I am feeding them Hikari wheat germ
sinking pellets, and wonder if that might have contributed to some of the
things I am finding wrong, one is my water I am looking into what to do
about that now, water people coming in on Monday. But as far as food goes I
was reading that one of you on wet web media feed their fish New Life
Spectrum pelleted and have for decades, Is this a good sinking pellet food
I can use for goldfish in tanks in the house? Not ponds??
<You can use good quality Goldfish foods both indoors and out. Because they
digest food slowly when it gets colder, Goldfish outdoors need a low
protein diet in autumn and early spring, compared to regular food in
summer. Goldfish indoors are kept warm all year round, so you can feed them
what you want, within reason.>
I am concerned with feeding them high protein food and have heard it might
be hard on older fish, Mine are about 13 yrs old. I know about the veggies,
and do give them peas,I will slowly introduce them to other veggies, but
for staple food I would like to know what you recommend or feed your
goldfish??
<Hands down the best food is plain old Pondweed, sold in pet shops by the
bunch. They'll graze on this stuff without any encouragement. Otherwise,
plenty of options. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/gldfshmalnut.htm
Lots of suggestions!>
Thanks again
Appreciate all the help you've been giving me!
Cathy
<Most welcome, Neale.> 

Re: Sick Goldfish      12/10/12
I Bob,
Remember me?  Well, I got another goldfish two weeks ago, and he was fine and perky until yesterday when he started sitting on the bottom of the tank with his top fin clamped down.  He will come up to feed but then goes pack to bottom sitting.  I had my water tested at the pet store and I just tested it again and the readings are the same as what I gave you before except the Nitrate is 5.0 ppm.  I switched my food to New Life Spectrum and have fed them only a little.  Last night I fed peas, and I have seen the new fish poop, so I don't think he is constipated.  Today I also changed 25% of the water, but it didn't help.  The other Oranda is still doing great, and not piping as much since the new food. He was so happy to get a new friend.  I really don't want another fish to die and I don't understand what can be going on.  The new fish looks fine in every other way.  Do you have any other advice?  Thanks so much for you help.
Deanna
<Just time going by, your good care. BobF>

Strange white marks on goldfish, not Ich.    9/25/12
Hi WWM crew,
<Jo>
I apologise if this has been asked elsewhere but I can't find anything similar. I have a 125L unheated tank, with 2 fancy goldfish (2 years old), a Hillstream loach (1 yr old), 3 variatus platies (1 year old), 3 Ramshorn snails and 2 Nerites. Only one fancy goldfish is showing symptoms which I first noticed yesterday and a lot worse today. He has very small white flecks on his fins and body. The best way I can describe them is like white iron filings! I can't tell whether they are on the surface or under the 'skin'. He is behaving normally, no clamped fins and he has a healthy appetite. The only thing that is new to the tank is a plant which I got from the local aquatics centre last week. My fish have had Ich before and I am certain that this is something different because the white things are more of a long, thin shape than a round cyst. Each one is probably about 1-2mm in length. They don't seem to be moving. They are on his body, fins and gill plates.
<Mmm, will discount the possibility/probability that this is something pathogenic; as the other goldfish is unaffected; and strongly discourage use of any "fish med.s", as these will too likely be toxic to the Hillstream loach and snails... and possibly the plant/s>
Water tests: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 15 nitrate (due a water change).
I'm afraid I am unable to capture a photograph as the fish moves to <too> much for my camera to cope.
Thank you for any advice you can give. I don't want to go through a cycle of trying all sorts of different medications and making things worse.
Thank
fully only one fish looks I'll at the moment and I hope to catch it before it spreads!
Kind regards
Jo
<I urge simply patience and observation here... along w/ the usual partial water changes... I'd just wait and see at this point. Bob Fenner>

Quarantine for Goldfish?    7/18/12
Hi,
<Salve!>
I'm about to go and pick up two last minute rescue goldfish (a common and a fantail), to add to my existing two, and I wondered if I need to quarantine them?
<If you can, and have the space, this is an extremely good idea. Doubly so with Goldfish, which are often maintained that bit less well than tropical fish, so are exposed to more stress/diseases.>
I know it's recommended for marine aquariums, but I couldn't see anything about freshwater (I may have missed the relevant information in my haste - I didn't know I was getting them until three hours ago, but they were about to get flushed, so what can you do?). If so, how long should I quarantine for?
<Oh, a couple of weeks is generally enough time for disease-causing organisms like Whitespot to make their presence known, but four weeks would be ideal. The word "quarantine" itself comes from the Italian, and literally means "forty days", referring to what was perceived to be the right length of time during the Middle Ages.>
My only spare tank is 15 gallons, is this OK? My understanding of quarantine tank set up is as follows (please let me know if anything is wrong!): No substrate, filter with filter media from the big tank, half water from the big tank, half new treated water, maybe a couple of ornaments.
<All correct. 15 gallons will be adequate for smallish Goldfish up to around 8 cm/3 inches, at least across the short term.>
Sorry if this has been asked a million times already - I've only had time to skim read!
Thanks
Amy.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Quarantine for Goldfish?    7/18/12

Hi Neale,
Thanks so much for your help! One snag, though - the fish are HUGE! Almost five inches minus tails (I was misinformed about the fantail - It's actually a Shubunkin!). They're in the 15 gallon at the moment, which is at least more spacious than the BiOrb thing they came in. So, on balance, is it still better to quarantine them, knowing the tank is a bit on the small side?
Thanks,
Amy.
<Tough call. See what water quality is like; if there's non-zero ammonia and/or nitrite, then you're exposing the fish to a dress factor that could bring on Finrot. But if water quality is okay, and you're able to filter appropriately and do adequate water changes, then quarantining makes sense.
On balance, I'd only keep 1-2 fish this size in a 15-gallon tank, and even then for a short period, a couple weeks maybe. More fish than that, I'd move them into the main aquarium, and simply be alert to possible problems.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Quarantine for Goldfish?    7/21/12

Hi Neil,
I don't think the quarantine tank is working out. I took readings yesterday of 1ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite, did a 50% water change, then took readings again tonight and they're back up to 1ppm ammonia and 0.25 nitrite, after 24 hours!
<Not good, I admit.>
I'm doing another 50% water change now, but I think I'd better get them out of there.
<Yes.>
The only slight worry is that both of them seem to be tilted slightly to the side - could this be a contagious disease? Or is it ammonia poisoning?
I even wonder if it's because they're used to swimming around in a globe!
<Where's the ambient light coming from? Goldfish (and many other fish) lean such that the brightest light shines on their backs, and if the lighting comes from the side, they'll tilt somewhat, trying to find a compromise between light and gravity. Otherwise, constipation is the most common cause of swimming problems with Goldfish, especially fancy Goldfish; see below:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/gldfshmalnut.htm
Peas and Epsom salt work wonders!>
Anyway, my main question is this: If I do put them in the main aquarium, what symptoms of contagious disease should I be looking out for?
<Doesn't sound contagious, so I'd not worry.>
Thanks again,
Amy.
<Welcome, Neale.>

Re: Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question. For GF?    6/5/12
Hello there! I'm re-sending this because my email had some issues and I didn't know if you were able to receive this from last night. If you've gotten it already please disregard this. I hope to hear from you soon.
Meanwhile I'm still searching for that link. Thank you again.
> -36 gal. Bowfront tank
> -2 Goldies approximately 5 inches head to tail (one fantail, one Ryukin)
> - med. gravel, one chewed up plant and river rocks
> - two hob filters (40-50 g/hr total)
> -temp. 77-88 degrees F. It's a bit hot, but I live in Florida and they
> seem to do well, that being said, no heater.
> -ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 4-5, ph is around the lower 8s'
> Hello Crew,
> My name is Dawn. I've been battling constipation and as of last week
> Dropsy problem for months.
<Have you searched, read on WWM re Dropsical conditions. Metronidazole is not a cure for such>

 I started trying to treat things from the least
> aggressive methods first then I progressed and now I'm desperate. Peas,
> aquarium/ Epsom salts, Maracyn II, and now I just managed to get my hands
> on some Metronidazole. I've searched and read through WWM for all of these
> treatments and the only thing I don't think I've done yet is the
> Metronidazole. My fish is currently on the last two treatments for the
> Maracyn II and it isn't doing much. I've also been doing 1/3 water changes
> every night just in case since I've started the meds. I've been doing some
> reading and I saw on one of the FAQs that Mr. Fenner suggested using
> Metronidazole.
<For? Where is this posted exactly?>

I'm willing to try that so I went to a few fish stores to
> get it, but evidently they don' t have that for fish here where I live.
> Desperate I called the vets and tried to pass things off like I wanted
> to get some for the dogs, and by the by, this also didn't work. So, I
> bamboozled my physician into prescribing me some and now I've got it.
> Although I know the chance now are slim I still can't sit and wait for the
> poor thing to die. Anyway I concur, the fish has pineconed and if I thought
> I had the time I would order the Metronidazole via the internet. I'm leery
> about how to administer the meds and give the right amount per the size of
> the fish. I remember reading somewhere here the dosage to give, but for the
> life of me I can't find that page again. My questions are, one if I'm doing
> the right things in medicating and treating the fish, and two if you could
> possibly send me the link to the page I'm looking for or let me know how to
> administer the Metronidazole. Also, if the medication differs for human
> consumption. They are 500 mg capsules.
> Thank you so much for the sight and for your help.
> Dawn
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/metranidazole.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question. Update   6/5/12

Ok, I do apologize for the bombarding you with emails so rapidly. I wanted to let u know I've found the link I was looking for and know how to give it to the fish now, however that sparked another question. In the FAQ it said to give the fish half a crushed capsule of Metronidazole soak in pellets for ten minutes. The capsule referred to in the said LFS page though, is for fish from the LFS and mine is made for humans.
<It, the compound, is identical>

 I have a niggling suspicion that half of a 500mg Metronidazole capsule for a 5 inch fish is over-"kill". That being said, my question now is.... How can I figure out correct amount to give the fish?
<The same reading: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/metranidazole.htm
B>
Re: Attn: Bob. Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question.    6/5/12

Yikes! I found in on the first link of Floaty/Bloaty Goldfish I guess I misunderstood. Glad I checked first. Thank you for the link Bob. Oh and one more mistake on my part, it wasn't Bob that was the helping it was Magnus I think. I guess I was frantic and started skimming through the searches.
Lesson learned. Thank you again!
<Ah, welcome. BobF>
Re: Attn: Bob F. Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question.    6/6/12

<... you've sent some six megs of images... we ask all to limit to hundreds of Kbytes...?>
Hi again. Just an update, I am going to set up a qt tank for him after I write this. I came home today to find him about the same with the exception for two things,  there is a bubble on his left gill and there used to be a darker (red) coloration on his right abdomen underneath his scales now it's either not there or I am not seeing it because of the pineconed scales.
The bubble/blister/slime build up is on his right gill like I said; it looks as though someone sucker punched him in the cheek. I'm going to attach a few pictures I've taken.
<... none show this>
 Hopefully you will get a better idea of his condition.
I've read through the link that you redirected me to, thank goodness, and I've searched for dropsicle.
<?>
I've noticed the heat and salt method and also have seen a post about someone's comet that has the almost the same issue.
Her comet only pineconed on one side and I suppose this means something significant.(? Will be looking into this also) I will be doing more reading, but right now I'd like to finish the Maracyn II treatment in the qt tank so that the other fish won't be affected anymore by the meds.
Because of him blowing up only on one side I am not sure whether I should go with the first choice of antibiotics (the Metronidazole) or start doing the heat and salt treatment. In my last message I forgot to add that their diet consists of Spirulina flakes, organic baby food peas (less mess), Hikari floating pellets, sometimes blanched spinach, seaweed for freshwater fish, and frozen combination worm/plant cubes from the LFS. After seeing the picture what do you think I should try next?
<Patience. Dropsical conditions are very hard to improve on... just good care, water quality and time going by. Treatments are of no real worth; and quite often trouble. B>

Dropsy/Metronidazole dosage question. Again...     6/6/12
-36 gal. Bowfront tank
-2 Goldies approximately 5 inches head to tail (one fantail, one Ryukin)
- med. gravel, one chewed up plant and river rocks
- two hob filters (40-50 g/hr total)
-temp. 77-88 degrees F. It's a bit hot, but I live in Florida and they seem to do well, that being said, no heater.
-ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 4-5, ph is around the lower 8s'
Hello Crew,
My name is Dawn. I've been battling constipation and as of last week
Dropsy problem for months. I started trying to treat things from the least aggressive methods first then I progressed and now I'm desperate. Peas, aquarium/ Epsom salts, Maracyn II, and now I just managed to get my hands on some Metronidazole. I've searched and read through WWM for all of these treatments and the only thing I don't think I've done yet is the Metronidazole. My fish is currently on the last two treatments for the Maracyn II and it isn't doing much. I've also been doing 1/3 water changes every night just in case since I've started the meds. I've been doing some reading and I saw on one of the FAQs that Mr. Fenner suggested using Metronidazole. I'm willing to try that so I went to a few fish stores to get it, but evidently they don' t have that for fish here where I live.
Desperate I called the vets and tried to pass things off like I wanted to get some for the dogs, and by the by, this also didn't work. So, I bamboozled my physician into prescribing me some and now I've got it.
Although I know the chance now are slim I still can't sit and wait for the poor thing to die. Anyway I concur, the fish has pineconed and if I thought I had the time I would order the Metronidazole via the internet. I'm leery about how to administer the meds and give the right amount per the size of the fish. I remember reading somewhere here the dosage to give, but for the life of me I can't find that page again. My questions are, one if I'm doing the right things in medicating and treating the fish,
<No... as you've been referred to read on WWM>
 and two if you could possibly send me the link to the page I'm looking for or let me know how to administer the Metronidazole. Also, if the medication differs for human consumption. They are 500 mg capsules.
Thank you so much for the sight and for your help.
Dawn
<... why are you resending this? B>

GF mouth stuck open/closed    3/4/12
I have been caring for 2 Common Goldfish and one Golden Dojo Loach for about a year now and none have had problems until about 2 months ago.
One day I accidently dropped their food container in the tank and they ate most of the container. (over-fed) None of the other fish had any symptoms except one. One of the fish’s left gill and mouth can barely open which makes it hard for it to breathe. It is slowly starving to death and I don’t know what to do.
It can’t open its mouth like before and therefore it can’t eat. I’m hoping you could help me as I find your site to be very resourceful ! thanks
<Mmm, well, maybe the mouth cartilage was over-extended, and "locked" into a permanently closed condition... could be unrelated, that the one fish has gotten a rock/gravel lodged in the joint here. It is worthwhile w/ anesthetic (clove oil, outside the tank water, see WWM re) or w/o, to hold the fish in a wet towel, try to open the mouth, investigate w/ a dull wood toothpick for obstruction. Bob Fenner>
Re: GF mouth stuck open
     3/13/12
I once took it out in a wet towel and tried to open its mouth and see if anything was stuck but nothing seemed to be stuck and i could open its mouth full size without any trouble but once back in the water he went right back to opening his mouth only a little bit and I've just noticed that one of his gills is almost curved backwards rather than being straight and his eyes are bulging out really badly which could only be because he's shrunk in size but idk. thanks
<Not good. BobF>

Damaged gills/ GF  3/3/12
Hello WWM crew:
I have a Lionhead and a Black moor goldfish together in a 50 gallon tank:
they were raised together and both are approximately 2 years old.
The Lionhead has been uncharacteristically lethargic for the past 4 weeks or so, hanging out near the water outlet for the filter. I examined the gills of both fish today and the Moor's gills look nice and healthy and even. The Lionhead's gills are a great colour but look like they have been macerated in patches along the edges (probably the cause of the lethargy)
<Mmm, maybe>
. No other fish or supplies have come into contact with these two fish.
I did a gill inspection several months ago and did note a very tiny bit of damage to the edge of the Lionhead's gills at that time. It has gotten worse.
My first thought was flukes-
<Mine too>
is it possible to have one fish with disrupted gills but not the other?
Could anything else cause this?
<Genetics, perhaps physical trauma... >
Thank you: GDA
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

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