Boxfish Mouth Injury - 5-20-09
Hello,
<Evening, Mike here>
I have a 6" male Spotted Boxfish that I have had for about 2 months. He came off of the Diver's Den from liveaquaria.com and has been doing great, is very personable and eats well.
<Excellent! I have a beautiful pair of O. meleagris myself! Fun fish, once they start to eat, but definitely not for the beginner!>
Two days ago I noticed that the corner of his mouth looked swollen and white. Yesterday it was a little more swollen and today his whole mouth seems swollen and white and his nose area seems a little faded. He still eats but is not as active as he usually is. There is a rabbitfish in the tank so I wondered if he may have been stung by accident while feeding, not sure what it is or what to do. I have attached some pics that are not very good, but that is an expensive hobby on its own.
<So true>
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
<Tough to tell from the picture, but it sounds like a minor injury that may be infected. Watch the fish for another day or so, and if you don't see any signs of the problem becoming worse, it should heal on its own. If you do notice an infection or the swelling gets worse, it's time for a hospital tank; where treatment with antibiotics and methylene blue would be advised>
Thanks for the wonderful site. <><
<Thanks for visiting!>
Jeremy
<Mike Maddox>

Box/cow fish parasites. Parasitized systems, alternatives... reading   8/24/08
I've had a Blue male, Black female box fish and a Cow fish for several years now. One thing I've noticed is they always have Cryptocaryon, I just have to try and control it. I've tried hospital tanks and the only successful/safe medicine was malachite green. However after using low salt and meds for 2 months and returning them to the 180 gal. tank, they would get "it"
<Uhh... the system itself has "it"...>
again after a few months. Is it true that they always have/carry ick or Cry.?
<Nope>
I've found the best long term solution to housing Box and Cow fish is to have only them as tank mates, and to use a low salinity of 1.016-1.018. This has kept them symptom free. My main question is, I will keep the low salt for 2-3 months, then raise to 1.022-1.023 for 1-2 months then back down when the first spot shows up. Is this potentially harmful?
<Yep... shortens their lives... due to "stress", kidney damage mostly>
How long can I keep 1.016 for?
<Months to years>
This method seems to be the least stressful to the fish and I don't have to keep a hospital tank as well. What kind of salinity's do you recommend?
<Near seawater...>
Am I too low and then not going back high enough? I want to give the fish the best long term care as possible, but need to keep the salt low to avoid problems. Thanks.
<... There are other means of treating/excluding protozoan complaints with the puffer families... Read on WWM re Quinine cpd., dip/bath (with formalin) procedures... Peruse here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
Bob Fenner>

Longhorn cowfish w/ich – 01/21/2008
Hello all, great site you have here! I am just going to dive right in here. I have been trying to fight what I think is ich since September. I currently have a 1.5" valentini puffer and a 3-4" longhorn cowfish in a 20 gallon. I have tried hypo twice...I will skip to the last time I tried hypo.
<Have you consistently kept the salinity below 15 ppt (SG < 1.011) for at least 4-6 weeks? Higher salinities won’t work with normal Cryptocaryon isolates. A few will even live in brackish water with a lower salinity and can only be treated with copper (or formalin, which is more difficult and potentially dangerous to apply).>
After I brought the salt back up I did not see any spots, and everything seemed ok until the cowfish (bugar) would eat. Every time bugar would eat shrimp or scallops after a few bites he would start darting and flashing around the tank.
<Something may be wrong with his nervous system, but that is more a guess than a diagnosis.>
He did not do this when eating pellet food only the raw frozen foods. (The puffer has not shown any signs)...for two weeks I carefully watched the longhorn, and all day he would not show any signs of ich not one single spot in two weeks was seen on his fins or body. I do realize that there are certain stages of ich that you cannot see, and the gills are one of the commonly attacked places, but to not see a spot in two weeks?
<It can take 4-6 weeks until spots occur again. Please get familiar with the life cycle of the parasite here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm . However, darting alone is not enough in my opinion to state this is ich.>
Another site suggested that it probably was ich, and so I began some other treatments. I first used stop parasite, this did nothing to the problem when the cowfish was eating, next I tried Nox-ich...The cow did fine, but I lost a dwarf lion...not sure if it was the medicine or not, but it seemed logical. The other site then suggested that I use Cupramine.
<If it was ich, this would be a good medication probably in contrast to the ones mentioned before.>
I tried this med a few months ago, and the cowfish did not like it. For the first time since I had bugar he did not eat, so I pulled the med.
<It had no chance to work.>
The other site said that this is a common side effect and should only last a couple of days. So I thought I would try Cupramine another shot. Currently I just added my second treatment of Cupramine last night. The first treatment that is supposed to take the level to .25 did not bother the cow, but taking it to .5 did. I added it last night, and this morning his color was very dark all over his body, and again he is not eating.
<Puffers, boxfish and other sensitive fishes should be treated at lower levels slightly above the minimum level recommended by the manufacturer.>
I am currently pulling the copper. At least he eats when I don't have that in there. I did notice today that bugar is darting, though he is not eating so this is not linked. I am at a loss as to what to do?
<Darting alone is not enough for a proper diagnosis. Without knowing at least roughly what to treat, I would not treat on suspicion.>
Not sure if I should be doing anything?
<If spots occur, treat with a copper product as indicated by the articles mentioned above. Aside that feed a vitamin rich varied diet to boost the immune system.>
I have tried hypo twice, I have used a battery of meds. I don't see spots on these fish. The valentini still shows no spots does not dart around. I have had them in a qt since Sept. I want to get them back into my dt, but don't want to introduce anything bad back into it. Any suggestion or insight would be greatly appreciated.
<See above if your hyposalinity treatment was effective at all. If salinity was too high or duration of the treatment was too short, Cryptocaryon is likely still in the system, even if you do not see spots. In this case or if you see any spots treat with Cupramine as indicated above and in the linked articles. After at least 4-6 weeks without spots the fish can probably go back to the main system, which also was free of fish hosts for at least 4-6 weeks. With regard to the darting: as long as no other symptoms occur, I would not specifically address this issue, only provide superb water quality and a vitamin enriched diet. Good luck, Marco.>

Burp the Puffer.. Ostraciid hlth. 1/14/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I apologize for having to email you, I've been searching and searching but cannot find EXACTLY what I'm needing.
About a week ago I noticed my Blue Spotted Puffer acting a little strange (75 gal, fowler, had about a year, two clowns only as his tankmates). He was looking a little bloated, started not eating, hanging out at the bottom, etc. The last two days he's literally done nothing but lay on his side in the sand. We thought he was as good as dead, breathing real heavy, LOOKED AWFUL.
<What are the water parameters? ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, SG?>
I had been reading and reading trying to figure out
what the problem was and then noticed that his back end started raising up like he was full of air or something. Discovered he probably was and I needed to "burp" him. I did, he still appears a little more bloated then he
used to, but A LOT better. He hasn't been at the bottom of the tank in about 12 hours now, BUT he's definitely not better. Kinda swimming aimlessly, not using his back tail at
all, turning upside down, etc. He's definitely not breathing as hard, but the light current is banging him into rocks, and he's kinda looking around like "oh crap I'm gonna run into it" BANG!! He's appearing to try and stay at the front of the tank and be a normal fish though.
Is there any hope for this little guy? After the last couple of days I'm VERY grateful that he's to this point, but was it still too late? Is there anything else I can do? Burp him again?
<If burping helped him, then try it again. What have you been feeding him?>
I appreciate the help, and also understand that you have A LOT to respond to :)
<No problem--please post answers to the above & get back to me. ~PP>
Jon

Re: Burp the Puffer.. 1/15/08
<Hi John, Pufferpunk again>
Well, he hasn't really been eating the past 5 days now.
<They can go quite some time without eating.>
Before that I was mixing brine shrimp and squid.
<Brine shrimp is not nutritious at all--mostly water, so the only thing he has been eating is the squid & they need a much more varied & crunchy diet than that.
See: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library/feeding/feeding-your-puffers/ >
I fed some other types but he refused to eat them (the other fish would however).
<Another helpful article on problems feeding your puffer:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library/feeding/problems-feeding-your-puffer/ >
All the levels are good,
<"Good" Means nothing to me. I believe I requested posting your exact parameters.>
the salinity was a little low about a week ago but nothing to write home about. As an update I've been burping him a couple of times a day, he doesn't seem to be doing as good anymore. Sitting at the bottom, he's been upside down at the
bottom since this morning. Still breathing though.
<Possibly a lack of proper feeding.>
I read somewhere that disorientation and the lack of using his tail is a sure sign of death to follow. Is it worth letting him suffer, or should I just put him out of his misery :( ??
<There is always a chance of saving him... We need try to
find out the problem though.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include snails, shrimp, everything that you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so? Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it?
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster. ~PP>
Thanks again, Jon

Cowfish... disease... treatment/s... reading... no useful data  12/3/07
I found your email through links while trying to find answers! I hope you can help me... if not can you let me know of someone who can.
I have a longhorn cowfish and we have been treating him, along with the others, for ICH.
<How? With what? Have you read on WWM re medications and Lactoria, other puffers?>
Just today we noticed red around his eye and on parts of his body (I don't for sure know the sex).
<Not able to be discerned externally, and doubtful whether this fish is mature, nor that this is pertinent>
I haven't been able to find any information on this.
<... on "the reddening"?>
Can you please help! We tried a dip twice and it wasn't successful so we stopped because we didn't want to stress him or the other fish out. Now we have a liquid medicine
<... what?>
that we have been using for about 1 week and haven't seen any sign of the ICH leaving. We raised the temp and have lots of oxygen in the tank. What else can we do? I don't want to lose the fish. The cow fish is just a baby!
Thank you in advance,
Tara
<... please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/boxfshdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above... to give you some ready background; and write back with answers to my questions above. Bob Fenner>

Boxfish Troubles  2/16/07
Hello from Alabama,
  Thank you for all of the help your website has given me. I have recently purchased two boxfish (male and female, Ostracion meleagris) for a maintenance customer of mine. I tried to talk him out of it but it didn't work. The male is about 6"
<Wow, big!>
and the female is about 3.5". I got them from liveaquaria.com's "Diver's Den", so we could see what we were getting.
<Nice feature, good company>
They haven't eaten since I received them a week ago. The fish are very active but show no interest in food at all. I have tried fresh squid, shrimp, scallops, and even live freshwater ghost shrimp.
<Wow...>
The male does have a small white bump/pimple on his belly, not sure what this is.
<Likely no big deal>
If you think they may need some type of medication what would you recommend?
<I would NOT treat, or even move these Ostraciids... they can/do go on "hunger strikes" particularly when moved... and won't starve for quite a long while if in initially good condition... I would keep trying... with an opened shellfish... when you call on this account>
They are in a 65 gallon quarantine that shares a wet/dry with a 40 gallon quarantine that is holding a Rabbitfish. The customer has ordered a medium Naso tang and a small flasher wrasse that will also go into this quarantine system (in case this has any effect on
medication types). Any help would be greatly appreciated.   
  Thank you,
  Jeremy <><
<I encourage you to go ahead and place these fish... Will likely feed in the main/display tank... in time... versus possibly never feeding and perishing from "stress" in quarantine. Bob Fenner>

Lactoria cornuta... hornless or horny?   9/26/06
Hi guys, a quick question if you would. I have a 3" specimen in a 180; he is newly collected and doing well, but spooks now and then when I've had to do maintenance; typically, he tried the flying fish routine and whacked the cover - he is longhorn no more; will the horns regrow in time? Thanks, Steve.
<Yes, very likely so. Bob Fenner>

- 'Gentle' Ich treatment for cowfish? (Tetrasomus gibbosus) 6/25/06 -
Hello,
<Good morning.>
Have you ever had one of those frustrating days wherein the more you try to learn, the less you're sure of what you know? <Often.> Dear oh dear. <Bear with it.> I'm having one of them, and I really hope you can help.
<I will do my best.>
My problem, in brief, is a cowfish (Tetrasomus gibbosus.. common names pretty much too numerous to list!) with what has all the earmarks of a burgeoning ich infestation.  It started as one dot, vanished, came back as two, vanished.. etc. until he was covered with dots.  Hoping that I "hadn't seen that" was, in hindsight, a mistake.
The cowfish is about an inch-and-half long; we've had him for about four months.  He is the sole inhabitant of a four year old 54 gallon (yes, 54.. corner bowfront) tank with around 20 pounds of liverock, about two inches of aragonite sand, and a large clump of cheerful and fast-growing Caulerpa (LFS calls it "sawtooth".. pretty accurate description of its narrow, jagged leaves).  The skimmer is a CPR Bakpak2, and the filter is an Eheim 2213.  My Visitherm heater has given me so little trouble that I cannot remember its wattage, and lighting is provided by aging PC bulbs (1 actinic, 1 daylight, 55w each.)  Salinity is 1.023, Ammonia and Nitrites are at 0, and Nitrates hover around 15-20ish.  Temp. is 78 F.  pH is about 8.2.
Current moment finds "Roz" in a five-gallon Q tank, awaiting his fate.  He acts completely normal, and eats well, but the dots persist (I did try turning off the skimmer.. alas, it wasn't bubbles).  I don't know what to do:  half the crowd says that treating ich with hyposalinity is Great and Good, especially for copper-sensitive cowfish; the other half says that hyposalinity "treatments" are a waste of time, because they aren't curing anything. <I prefer hyposalinity as a dip or bath.> Everyone says "..and for the love of God, be CAREFUL with formalin if you haven't used it before, it is extremely toxic!" <THAT is for certain.> Aaahh, what to do!? <You actually have the answers right there.>
I am slowly raising the temp in the empty main tank (had to crack coralline off the Visitherm to do so. haven't changed it since I set it out of the box!), to encourage the ich to 'cycle' itself and die, but I'm not sure what to do with the cowfish.  Mr. LFS sold me a wee bottle of Cupramine, but I haven't used it.  I also haven't dipped the cowfish, as Mr. LFS said there was no point in doing so (parasites under slime coat, etc.) <Even so, often remarkably effective.> Well, he was wrong about that, it seems. Drat. <Ahh... no worries, live and learn, right? We'll get Roz hooked up.>
So.. what treatment course would you recommend, here?  The cowfish is well, hale and happy; but I know he won't stay that way without help. <Or will he? It's been my observation that some of the scaleless fishes are always carrying around something on their skin - not all of this group, but mostly the advanced ones (boxfish, puffers, etc.). In spite of these parasites, they always seem to keep on trucking and behave/eat like they always do with what seem to be no long term ill effects or contamination of tankmates. Could be that Roz is like this...> I've warmed the Q tank up a little, to about 80 F.. already there are fewer visible dots on him.  I did put gravel in the Q tank. a scant double handful of new, freshly washed coral gravel, because the shiny bottom appeared to be upsetting Roz quite badly. <Yes - is my strong belief that while some fish may react to their reflection in the side glass, many more are completely freaked by their reflection in the bottom glass. I paint my quarantine tanks or put contact paper on at least the bottom (outside).> That 'other cowfish' was talking trash, it would seem..  Should I remove it? <Without a doubt.> Would Paraguard/similar Malachite green formulation be a better choice than the Cupramine/copper formulation? <If things seem out of control, then yes, but I'm not sure we're at that point.> At this point, the wisest treatment course seems to be the gentlest, most patient one: if I'm starting with a healthy fish, then perhaps I can afford to expend more time/effort on my part to spare him a harsh, "last ditch" style of treatment... I have the luxury of a ich-y (haha!) fish who is still in good health... but I'm not sure how to be 'gentle' and still get rid of the ich. <It seems to me you had the answer all along. This is an otherwise healthy fish in an ideal situation - he has a 54 corner all to himself. I'd leave him be if he eats and behaves normally. If the spots are frequent and increasing, then I'd give it a long, pH/temperature-adjusted freshwater dip and then return to the main tank. If things move beyond that, I'd consider a Quick Cure/Paraguard bath in a bucket of tank water, treated for the amount of water in the bucket, perhaps an hour if the fish seems otherwise fine. But for now, a freshwater dip, return to the tank, and the resultant reduction in stress should work well. Perhaps some more live rock at some point down the line would help, but not right now. Keep on a good water change regimen (10% every 2 weeks) and I think Roz will be fine.>
Thank you very, very much in advance!
Ramie  
<Cheers, J -- >

Blue spotter puffer poor eyesight   6/17/06
Hi,
<Hello there>
I have a puffer who doesn't seem to see very well.
<Not uncommon... sometimes traceable to nutritional deficiency, other times to pathogens...>
It  tries to eat but just misses the target.  What gives?  I have started  feeding it by smashing the food on the side of the tank and that seems to help,  but is there anything I could do to better it's eyesight.   Help!
<Try the Google search tool on WWM... "Puffer eyesight". Read the cached versions.
Bob Fenner>

Sick cowfish   3/16/06
Hello Ladies and Gents,
I have a 3 inch long Lactoria cornuta who has what I think is some type of external bacterial infection.  There are several small spots by his rear "horns" that look like the skin has eroded away exposing his "carapace."  He also appears to be breathing fast.  (Still has a good appetite though - eats clam, PE mysis, silverside chunks, and Omega 3 Superveggies - flakes soaked before feeding so they sink). Water parameters are as follows:  Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, nitrate ~ 30, temp 79F, SG 1.025, pH 8.0, alk 8dkh (trying to raise this with buffers).  Would Furanace or Metronidazole be appropriate treatments?
<Mmm, w/o knowing that there is microbial or protozoal involvement, I would not...>
I know that it is best to treat in a hospital tank, but would these medications harm the display tank? - negatively impact bacteria, live rock, etc.
<Yes>
What do you think of Melafix?
<A mild cathartic at best. I would not, do not use it>
Thank you in advance for your wisdom and help.
Sincerely,
Eric
<I would bolster the animals immune system by soaking the aforementioned foods in a supplement like Selcon, Microvit... and leave it alone otherwise. Bob Fenner>

Puffer Tooth Loss 2/28/2006
I have a blue spotted puffer with a tooth problem.  We have had “puffet" for about 1 1/2 yrs.  Great eater, one of the best fish we have ever had.  Our problem is that she has lost one of her teeth.
<<Aww>>
The local fish stores that carry these fish have never heard of this.  They have heard of the teeth chipping away but never falling out.  Before the tooth fell out she had not been eating very much and really not very social.  Now that the tooth fell out she is almost 100% again, the eating is not what it use to be but at least she is eating.  What do you make of this?  We would love to know if anyone else has had this happen!
<<I have seen this happen a few times.  So long as feeding is not affected, housing and water quality is up to par, and it is not a result of physical trauma, I would not worry too much.  Keep an eye on her to ensure no infection sets in, and that she is eating.  Also pay close attention to her other teeth, as they may over grow with this tooth missing.  Good luck. Lisa.>>

Boxfish has white film on eyes - 2/28/2006
Help, I have had a yellow cowfish for about a year now and soon after I transferred him over to a new tank with the same fish he got ICH probably from the stress of moving.  
<To be clear here: the fish and system already "had, have" the ich... the added stress just brought it to symptomatic level>
Since he is scale less, I have stayed away from copper based meds and LFS recommended Rid ICH +
<... look at the ingredients here... Malachite Green and... Formalin... much more toxic>
for a full 14 days with 25% daily water changes.  He seemed to be getting better but when I came home from work both of his eyes were cloudy basically within 8 hours.
<Could be from many causes... likely the medicine exposure period>
I checked pervious posts here and there was some discussion but I don't think its fungus or a scratch from the live rock.  I have several questions, could ICH
actually get on the surface of the eye, is he dying, will he go blind even if I can cure him?
<Not likely Crypt on the eyes you're seeing... but something akin to chemical burn>
He is otherwise very healthy, and was trying to eat but could not see the food.  Could the medication cause this?
<Yes>
I have been thinking about a fresh water dip but would the added stress kill him?   And finally, do you know if any links that might list vets that specialize in
marine fish in Los Angeles area?  
<Mmm, I don't... but would contact the LA marine club (put MASLAC in your search tools) and ask them re. Not likely anything other than clean water, rest needed/called for here. The cloudiness will cure on its own and feeding resume with time going by, good care. Bob Fenner>

Cowfish W/Dangling-Broken Horn - 01/10/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I've looked through your site and the net searching for a situation that was similar to mine.  Unfortunately I couldn't find anything about it.
<<Ok>>
My cowfish made a quick movement today near the corner of the tank and somehow ended up breaking his rear horn that is below the tail.
<<Wow...must have been some "movement.">>
It is barely hanging there and I would like to know if I should let it fall off or cut the thread of skin that is keeping it dangling there.
<<Unless it is causing a problem/getting in the way of its movement in the tank I would leave it be.  Likely much more stressful/harmful to capture and handle the cowfish.>>
Also, will it grow back?
<<I really don't know...but am doubtful.>>
Should I take any extra precautionary measures in order to keep it from becoming infected?
<<Likely will be fine, though iodine/iodide dosed to the system may be of some benefit.>>
It seems to have broken about a half-inch away from where it joins the rest of his body.  Please tell me anything I can do to make him happier in this unfortunate situation.  BTW he is still eating like a champ and constantly watering the areas outside the tank as usual (I assume that's a good sign).
<<Ha!  Yes...just vying for your attentions.>>
Do you think that he can even feel pain from this, b/c he sure isn't acting like he's in pain.
<<Is most likely just fine.>>
Thanks,
Garen Wright
<<Regards, EricR>>

Help! Moo is sick   1/7/06
Hello all,
<Moooo!>
I have a sick 2 inch longhorn scaleless who has what appears to be Ich. (I do know about the feeding requirements and eventual size of this fish.  He's going into a 75 gallon tank for now and then a 220 once he's of decent size).
<I take it this is a Lactoria cornutus/a>
I know that these fish are scale-less and therefore copper is not a safe treatment.  I've read of several other possibilities and wanted your opinion.
<Copper (chelated best) can be used... carefully>
The first was a 30-60 minute formalin bath (I'd use Formalin 3 and follow the directions) in a separate container/tank filled with water from the display tank.  The second treatment was hyposalinity (which I am familiar with and have used in the past with mixed results - one fish cured, one fish didn't survive to the treatment's completion).  Currently I do not have a hospital tank with established filtration (the water and filter media are new so there is no beneficial bacteria) for the hyposalinity technique.  Will the Formalin bath help until I'm able to set up the hospital tank?
<Mmm, the exposure is toxic to the fish... consecutive treatments are progressively weakening...>
If I take a bag of ChemiPure from the display tank (been in the filter for about 3 weeks) would this be sufficient for the hospital tank (along with daily water changes, buffering etc.)?  
<Should help demonstrably>
Finally, I'm concerned about transferring this fish from display tank to treatment tank.  A net is out of the question.  Going from the display to the bath or hospital tank will be done by "scooping" the fish into a specimen container with water from the tank to avoid exposure to air. What is the best way to get the fish back into the display tank from the formalin bath?
<Mmm, overfilling and dumping most of the water out of the scooper with new/clean water...>
Thank you for your time and expertise,
Eric
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner>

Re: Help!  Moo is sick  1/8/06
Thank you for the quick response.
<Welcome>
The formalin bath did not seem to have any effect whatsoever (Ich parasites clearly visible 24 hours later).
<... do you understand the "ich cycle?"... if treated with formalin, the life cycle on the fish themselves will/could be eliminated... the resting stages are going to cycle back on if you've left the fish in the same system... This is posted on WWM re Crypt/Marine Ich>
In your reply you stated that copper COULD
be used "carefully."  How arduous a process would this be?
<Posted as well... involves testing (at least daily... remoting to a treatment system>
  I'd like to use Cupramine and a Salifert test kit to monitor the copper levels in the
hospital tank (was planning on using a 29 gallon tank with an Aquaclear 70
for filtration).  Is this a viable solution or am I better off going with the 6 week hyposalinity treatment?
<... please see WWM... am not a fan of hyposalinity "treatments">
  If you believe copper is the way to go could you please suggest a treatment schedule - amount of copper in solution
and for how many days.
<Posted on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Thank you for your help,
Eric

Cowfish with eye trouble  12/21/05
I have an adult Cowfish (Kazoo) who started getting a cloudy eye, which he has had before and recovered.  I treated the 110gal tank with melafix and a heavy dose of Novaqua+ and added aquarium salt.  Now after two weeks a huge amount of swelling and ulcerations developing I have put him in a 5 gal hospital tank and am treating with Furacyn.  Is this the best course of treatment?  I am just sick and love Kazoo.  Please advise!  Thanks!!!!
<Depends on the root cause of the trouble here... If unilateral (one-sided) likely the trouble is resultant from a mechanical injury (a bump)... Do keep a check on the water quality in the small tank, and try supplementing the fish's foods with a vitamin et al. complex. Bob Fenner>

Hovercraft Boxfish All Stressed Out! - 12/04/05
We have had our Hovercraft Boxfish called 'Ermintrude' now since last March. Everything has been going really well although we find he gets a little stressed with new fish being added.
<<Mmm, a "he" eh...maybe just embarrassed <G>, isn't 'Ermintrude' of female origin?>>
We are extremely careful in this situation and return new fish back to our shop if he's not happy.
<<Hmm...from what I can find this fish (Tetrosomus gibbosus) is considered compatible with a wide variety of species.>>
We've noticed since adding a Boxer Shrimp over two weeks ago that when he goes near he goes really black in colour.
<<Curious>>
We've kept an eye on this and this appeared to calm down however over the last day or two he appears really fat although not eating much. He is also keeping well away from the Boxer Shrimp over the last day or too as well.
<<Coincidence, maybe.>>
Tonight we found him sucked up against the filter, he appeared lethargic and not himself.
<<Tis a real danger with these fish...not strong swimmers. Best to have protected intakes on filters/drain lines.>>
His shape has changed enormously and we fear infection but can't find anything on this. Any suggestions ?
Kay Bosanko-Sheady
<<Hard to say really. Ideally you should remove this fish to a dimly lit hospital tank to reduce stress and watch for/treat any physical injury from the filter incident, if necessary. Do some research on this fish and make sure you are providing a suitable environment...the filter incident aside, it does sound as if your fish is suffering from stress related issues. Regards, EricR>>

Cowfish Buoyancy Issue  12/10/05
I think my cowfish has ingested some air. He is floating tail up. what should I do?
<True buoyancy problems are often idiopathic, it's hard to determine the route cause. The problem itself however is often associated with the swim bladder (small sack responsible for fishes level in the water column) This could be dietary, the fish may have an impaction in it's digestive tract so I would use small pieces of easily digestive food (flakes, Mysis shrimp) and see if this helps. Until then I would move him to a hospital tank so that he can avoid becoming a puppet of your current and avoid being picked on by tank mates. Keep water quality and oxygen levels high.>
Thanks in advance. Marc
<Adam J.>

Cowfish - poorly suited for aquarium life 6/18/05
I have a Long horn Cowfish.  
<Ughhh... neat fish, but very poorly suited for aquarium life.>
It eats well and swims around.  
<the bigger problem here is its adult size at 1.5 feet long! It will surely stunt and die prematurely for being kept in an aquarium unless you get it to a public aquarium sized display sooner rather than later. Its simply not true that fishes "grow to their tanks size." Again... they just stunt and die prematurely. Plus... this fish has toxic skin secretions. If stressed, it can/will exude a substance that will kill every living fish in your display including the cowfish itself. Please(!) research fishes before you buy them my friend. This ill-advised purchase will at least cost this specimen its life, likely.>
The problem is he is getting a stringy white growth over his horn and on the top of its head.  I don't know if it is bacteria or fungus.  I have a 40 gallon FOWLR tank with 2 perculas, a neon goby and a blue tang.  Any help with identification and treatment would be great. Thanks
<Any treatment of this toxic fish must be done in an isolation tank. If you do not have a QT tank, please read more in our archives and beyond about the critical need for having one to succeed long term in this hobby. Also... read more about your cowfish here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfishes.htm
and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfshfaqs.htm
and here:
http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?genusname=Lactoria&speciesname=cornuta
Do remove this fish to a QT tank as soon as you can condition a sponge filter (in the display for several weeks). Use medicated food in the meantime with hopes to buy time on the condition if it seems to be bacteria or fungus (common on these sensitive fishes). Anthony>

- Long-horned Cowfish is Sick -
We have a 90 gallon tank.  We have two puffers, a porcupine and not sure what the other is, two tangs a fox faced and unsure of the other and two long-horned cowfish.  We have had the cowfish and the puffers for over a year and they have remained healthy until now.  Last week we added the tangs.  As of yesterday, we noticed the cowfish has rapid respiration, pale blotchy skin and he is laying on the bottom of the tank.  No signs of parasites or wounds.  Any suggestions as to treatment? <You may want to remove it to a quarantine tank and see if mends without pressure from other fish. It's possible that it is the object of aggression from one or more of your other fish.> Thanks for your help.
<Cheers, J -- >

Sick boxfish
I am worried about my Whitley's boxfish. I have had him for a couple of  months and he seemed to have settled in OK. Recently, he hasn't been eating so well and yesterday, he was lurking at the bottom of the tank.
<Wow... a male Whitley's Boxfish... very rare>
This morning, I found him lying on his side. I thought he was dead but when I nudged him, he swam away but seemed slow and disoriented, tipping over on to his side. I can't see any external signs of disease and the water parameters are OK.
<What is OK?>
Other fish in the tank are Green Chromis and a couple of clown fish, who are currently fighting it out (I don't know whether this might be a cause of stress).
<Mmm, should be okay... do you see these damsels bugging the Box?>
I also added a couple more hermit crabs yesterday. 
Please help - any advice welcome.
Len
<Help with? What about the history of your having this puffer? Your system? What have you done thus far? You did not place chemical treatments in this system I hope... I would at least execute a large (half) water change, add activated carbon to your filter flow path, read on WWM re all Puffer, Ostraciid System and Disease FAQs files. Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfishes.htm  and work through them through the links above. Bob Fenner> 

Boxfish with Marine Velvet
I have a juvenile yellow box fish with Marine Velvet. I just noticed it today. I have placed him in a separate tank.
<excellent... 4 week minimum please in QT>
I am worried about the copper treatment.
<rightly so... they are scaleless and will overdose on copper. Rely on closely supervised FW dips and formalin medications instead (without organic dyes mixed in like malachite green)>
I have read that the box fish when nervous can secrete a toxin and can be deadly?
<correct... they should not be kept with other fishes in small private tanks. I suspect that you have a cubicus (yellow with black spots). Most boxfish get 12" or larger as adults. Cubit's exceed 2 feet long!!! This is a fish for huge public aquariums... I wish they weren't sold to (us) casual aquarists. Most die prematurely for being kept in small aquaria (under 300 gall)>
Thank you, Shelby
<best regards, Anthony>

Ich? on Yellow Boxfish
<Hello! Ananda here tonight>
We have had our boxfish in our tank for about a month.  He has been very healthy with no signs of disease until today when we noticed about 30 or more white dots all over his body.  We suspect ich, but the dots do not seem to be clustered around his fins....yet?  He is still eating, breathing and swimming as usual.  
<Those are good signs.>
We know not to treat him with copper since he is a scaleless fish, and we know he secretes a toxin, which could kill everything in our tank, when he becomes stressed.  
<Yup.>
Our concern is will he release this toxin if we try to remove him from the tank to do freshwater dips?  Should we do freshwater dips?  
<Yes, it's possible that your cowfish might release toxins if the freshwater dip stresses it sufficiently. You can minimize the stress of a freshwater dip by ensuring that the dip temperature and pH exactly match that of the display tank, and by aerating the dip tank. However, some people prefer to save freshwater dips as a last resort for these fish.>
Is there any other way to treat this fish?  We have already started to raise the temperature to 80 degrees and are starting to lower the salinity as well.  
<You've already started on the primary treatment: lower salinity and higher temperatures. These would be best carried out in a bare-bottomed hospital tank, along with daily water changes, siphoning from the bottom of the tank to get the greatest number of ich cysts. I've read that people with cowfish are more likely to use UV sterilizers -- which are good only against the free-swimming stage of the parasite, mind you -- to help combat ich. Another favorite of the crew on the Cowfish, Puffers, & More discussion group seems to be StopParasite. I have no experience with that particular product, so I suggest you check the Cowfish etc. discussion group for peoples' opinions: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CowfishPuffers_andMore/ >
Is it possible that this is something other than ich?  His tankmates are a Foxface, a damsel, a Kole tang and a couple of snails.  Thanks for any advice you can give.
<More on Boxfishes here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfshfaqs.htm ... --Ananda>

Dying Cowfish... 2/15/03
I have a cow fish Puffer, who'd tail is falling apart. It has the look of raw skin, It all started when a hippo tang had a parasite so I purchased some cleaner wrasse they cleaned up the hippo but my cow puffer did not like to be cleaned. I have now started treatment with copper, and MelaFix, any idea what I should do?
Thanks
Vince
<Well Vince, I start by putting the puffer in a Q tank ASAP.  Copper is bad for this type of fish.  What are you feeding your puffer?  Try feeding the fish krill/shrimp dipped in garlic extract.  The MelaFix should help.  You are going to have to wait this one out.  But please stop the copper!  Also is this fish being picked on by other fish??  Hope this helps!  Phil>

- Cowfish Corral -
Hullo Crew!
<And hello to you, JasonC here...>
And a very special but hurried hullo! to whoever is responding today (Bob?  Anthony?)  because we are hoping that you can give us some very good advice very quickly-
<I will do my best.>
Our juvenile ( about 2") longhorn cowfish got caught in the intake of our powerhead this morning; his head from the eyes up was caught.  We don't know for how long he was in there, except that the tank had been checked about two hours previously, and he was fine then.
We immediately turned the powerhead OFF and freed him; he is currently slowly wavering about the tank, fins flicking fairly rapidly.  The only obvious damage is a cloudiness/swelling over and around his eyes, and a somewhat 'bloodied' appearance over the back of his head between his horns.  I'd guess I'd call it a bruise if he was human; there are thin red lines tracing the spaces between his bony skin-plates, he's not actually 'bleeding' from exposed tissues. <Is actually more like a hickey - blood being pulled through the skin.> I'll include a couple of pictures - blurry, but I think you can see what's going on with his swollen eyes; and a 'before' shot for comparison.
http://www.deepdarksea.com/pics/trumpybefore.jpg
http://www.deepdarksea.com/pics/trumpy1.jpg
http://www.deepdarksea.com/pics/trumpy2.jpg
http://www.deepdarksea.com/pics/trumpy3.jpg
<Ouch...>
As of right now, about 20 minutes after we rescued him, the other inhabitants of the tank are acting perfectly normal (no toxin release, thus far), and he is moving up and down the water column a little bit more, and ate a little food. <Ahh good... I've done similar in an attempt to let the fish know, "Everything is cool." Have no clue if it works or not, but good thing that Trumpy ate.> Still mostly hovering in one place, though, and not reacting normally to visual stimuli. <I'm not surprised... could very well lose that eye.>
So - what should we do? <Hmmm...> Watch and wait? <Good place to start... you could also add some Epsom salts to help work on the swelling a bit - about one teaspoon per gallon would do.> And if so - what are definite signs that he's going downhill, and should be removed from the tank? <I'd look for it to stop eating for starters.> Add more carbon to the filter? <Yes.> Medicate him? <Not at the moment - might want to do something about that power head so you don't have an instant replay. Peace and quiet would be best at this point.> Any advice here would be helpful - we don't have a quarantine tank, and thus far we've meticulously purchased only healthy fish, so this is our first experience with an invalid. <I think it will be fine in the long haul although things may look worse before they get better. Again, most important to make sure it doesn't get re-injured or hassled by anyone in the tank.>
A quick rundown on our tank specs:
29G FOWLR  (YES, we are getting a bigger tank ASAP for the cowfish!  Saving up, saving up.. 8) )
CPR BakPak protein skimmer
Eheim canister filter (has a little carbon in right now)
2x55w PC hood
Nitrates and Nitrites, 0
Ammonia, 0
SG 1.023
pH 8.1
Thank you thank you,
Dustin and Ramie
<Cheers, J -- >

Formerly long-horned cowfish?
<Hi! Ananda here tonight...>
I have a long horned cow fish, it seems that one of my fish like to bite off his horns 2 of the horns have been bitten off the cow is fine I'm just wondering if those horns grow back? Can you please help?
<No, the horns are not likely to grow back. If another fish in the tank is biting the cowfish's horns, I'm concerned that you're keeping incompatible species together -- with sufficient aggravation, the cowfish may release the ostracitoxin, which could wipe out your tank. Please do read up on these fish, both on the WetWebMedia site, and on http://www.cowfishes.com, and on the Yahoo group "Cowfish, Puffers, and More" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CowfishPuffers_andMore/ .... --Ananda>

Thanks for the reply. (Boxfish, ich concerns)
Thanks for the quick reply- spent all day reading on the WWM site.  
EXCELLENT resource, we are lucky to have you.  Saturday- moved the fish to the LFS.  Separated the YP Box (he is in his own tank at the LFS), the SF
tang and 2 Clowns are in another tank, and the Auriga and L. Blenny are in another.  The thing is, the LFS here in town have 1200 gallon system that
circulates amongst the entire store-  If the boxfish dies will this contaminate the entire store?<possibly if he is not taken out
of the aquarium ASAP>  Not only that- there is no way to up the temp and lower the salinity for an individual tank- they are all linked.  They
seemed unconcerned when I pointed out this detail.  They are unable to diagnose specifically (though they seem to think ICH because of the small
spots on the percula), but were quick to asses Copper treatment for the tang and clownfish (moderate copper for the auriga and the blenny).  but after
reading all day I am kind of freaked out-  These are not quarantine tanks and they have gravel bottoms, so I'm pretty much assured that the copper
will be absorbed by the gravel and it will be filtered through (no constant copper) because of the water system set up (so totally ineffective?). <not necessarily> The
LFS also said to treat there 3-5 days and back to our tank.  I (now) know 4-6 week minimum to run the course of the parasite- (at home while awaiting
fish we can) lower the salinity to 1.021 (says bob) 1.018 (says Steven pro) and raise the temp. (no higher than 84f) since we have 2 cleaner shrimp
(already) and 2 emerald crabs and 20 lbs LR (no copper here thank you!!) we are sort of stuck unless we move everyone to the LFS or get 3/4 QT.<agreed> But I am still concerned for our fish at the LFS.<I would be also>  I know now (add another to the list) that I should have had a Quarantine tank all set up and ready to go and I think I need to go back and pick up my fish- like right now.<agreed>  Should I have two QT? One set up for the box fish (and blenny? he is scale-less
right?<yeah this sounds like a good idea> maybe they should be separate if the box fish doesn't make it) and one for the tang, auriga?<yea>  (Is the butterfly more sensitive?) <probably so> I would like to set up the QT and treat the Tang, Clowns, Butterfly with Copper. (right?)<yes>
  Then does everyone stay in the QT for 4-6 weeks?<yup> I love my fish- I will be very sad if they die (I already feel incredibly guilty- why aren't there
laws pet stores selling SWF without a license of some sort???<I honestly cannot answer that one>
we bought the tank with fish already from people who were moving and have had to learn everything the hard way- and the LFS has pretty much told us ALL THE WRONG THINGS).<most of them normally do, there are some exceptions but normally they tell you false info to make the quick sale>  So how many QT? <2 of them would be an excellent idea>
Should I move them again from the LFS to home?<this may stress them out again, I would wait a while and see if they progress at the LFS, because you are probably going to stress the crap out of them shipping them back and forth, etc>  I called the LFS today- and the owner said they looked fine (moron) and I
don't trust them to treat our fish... what do you recommend?<well you pretty much have to trust them right now, because again you don't want to stress them out more than they already are> Thanks for the website- you are all excellent to have this website and answer all of these questions...
Thanks again.<your welcome my friend, just wait and see how the fish look at the LFS-with your own eyes might I add!! lol. If they start to look worse I would setup my own QT aquarium and treat the fish there. Hopefully your LFS at least knows the basics of marine fish keeping and treating of parasitic infections/ich. IanB>
-Erin

Cowfish with something odd in its eye
<Hi! Ananda here tonight...>
I could not find a answer in your q/a section.
<Well, that happens. That's why we're here...>
My cowfish had a attack of ick which I treated in a 25 gal sterile tank.
<Okay>
It cleared up but a short time later it developed a secondary infection of the eye. The eye became distended, cloudy with what seemed like a thick cream colored glob along the bottom of eye. I have treated it with copper an it soon cleared up except for the glob. I do not wish
to continue this treatment if I don't have to, it has been 14 days It may have a adverse effect on the fish although it seems to be doing fine.
<Copper is *not* something I would use with a cowfish! Do put a power filter on the tank with  some good carbon and consider using a different treatment regimen. Check out the assorted articles and FAQs on marine ich (note that's ich with an H, not ick with a K) for more info about treating ich in a way that will be much less stressful to your cowfish. Also check out the Yahoo group "Cowfish, Puffers, and More" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CowfishPuffers_andMore/ ...>
Do you know what this is and how I may treat it? ( I have Maracyn 2 but do not know if it is wise to mix with the copper treatment)
<It may be "eye fungus", or a bacterial or parasite infestation of the eye. Whichever one it might be, try "Eye Fungex" by Aquatronics. Also keep a close watch on the water quality in the hospital tank. I am not sure the Maracyn 2 would help.>
Thank You
R.Doughten
<You're welcome. I would be interested to hear how the treatment works out. --Ananda>

Please help Mr. Cow!
Hello!
<Hi there Kara>
First off the basics are. 125 gallon tank, all parameters such as salinity, ph, nitrate, nitrite, temp, etc. are good.   In the tank are Mr. Cow (longhorn cowfish - 7 inches w/tail), dog face puffer (4 inches), Picasso trigger (2 inches), flame angel, mandarin and a neon puffer (2 inches).  
<sounds like very nice fish.  All fish with quite impressive personalities.  Though you have probably been told this before, but Picassos can be quite nippy to slow moving fish, and sometimes more so with puffer and cowfish.  Also Neon puffer, I'm assuming is a Solandri Sharpnose, very pretty fish>
We have had these fish for over a year and they all get along.  At least they do when I am watching them.
<glad you realize that many times battles happen with the lights are off, and no one is around to see.  It's a hard thing to drill into some fish keepers.>
5 Days ago Mr. Cow stopped eating!  
<defiantly not a good thing.>I believe he is constipated as well. I have tried feeding him peas, corn, spinach and broccoli but he won't eat anything.  He normally ate the basics such as clam, shrimp, and other various frozen varieties. I tried garlic extreme in the hopes of tempting him to eat but it didn't work.  I've held him (he let's us
pet/hold him) and tried feeding him but he simply clamps his mouth shut!  
<have you changed anything recently in your tank, switched to another salt brand, or done anything different?  Cows can be temperamental at times, and just suddenly turn off of foods due to a slight change in the tank.  I had a friend who's cowfish suddenly turned off of food for over a week and a half after changing his salt mix.>
He is the "king" of the tank and would steal the other's food whenever possible.   I would have to trick him to the other side of the tank with food so that the other fish would get some food.  And they say cowfish are slow movers/eaters!  Not Mr. Cow.  That's why I am so concerned.  
<I can understand your concern.  Be sure to check out some of our pages on WetWebMedia, you can find some of them here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfishes.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfshfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfishfaq2.htm
They cover some good concerns over the care of cowfish>
Another thing I've noticed is that he is not as attentive to me.  He used to swim up and greet me all the time and "wag" his fins.  He used to be so happy.  Now he seems to be in a haze and doesn't really notice me.  He looks over but that's about it.
< That is a similar trait to puffers and other distant relatives once they turn away from food they seem to not be interested in anything.  It stands to reason cause food is their number one!>
What concerns me the most is that he seems to be bumping into things like the glass, heaters and live rock.  Not all of the time but he never did that before.  And he swims very slowly now, that is if he's not "standing still" in the corner. The thing is he still blows bubbles out of the water (for quite long amounts of time) as if he is hungry.  But he eats nothing.  He'll just let the food float by or even hit him on the face.
<Do you have a Quarantine tank set up to be able to house this fish?  If not you might want to set seriously consider setting up a tank as soon as possible so you can move this fish away from the others.  He might simply be pestered by the trigger when no one is around and it's starting to take a toll on him.  Beside that, with not eating and these other signs, I think it might be a good idea to move it to a separate tank so he runs less chances of becoming sick in his weakened state.   That said, if he does show signs of sickness, then it's easier to medicate a QT then your display tank.>
Now that Mr. Cow is not eating our trigger swims around more.
<Makes sense, the King is seemingly de-Crowned for the time being and the trigger in my opinion would be the next aggressive in the tank following the Cowfish>
In case he might be the problem (but I doubt it) we are giving our trigger away to our LFS this weekend.
<If you set up a Quarantine Tank and move the cow to a new home, then the need to trade in the trigger is not longer there.>
I've searched all over the internet, I have inquired on the puffer/cowfish newsgroup, and no one has experienced this.
<I've had many folks with cowfish experience some similar.  Many times the cowfish bounces back with no problems other times it needs a bit of TLC.  I suggest you look at some of the mailing lists.  There is an amazing group of people totally dedicated to cowfish on the yahoo E-groups.  My advice to you is check out this group, I have a few friends there that are extremely knowledgeable on the Cowfish.  The link to that mailing group is:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CowfishPuffers_andMore/
I've learned a great deal from the yahoo group lists.  Many experts there.>
Some people say that it might be a phase.  I might be inclined to believe that if he weren't also bumping into things.
<Agreed, not many "phases" in animals go by, not wanting to eat, becoming lethargic and bumping into things.>
By the way - his coloring is normal, his fins look good and his eyes are clear.  We have 2 filters and two UV's running on the tank.  The other fish are all fine.
<That is good to hear.  No spots or discolorations, so it might not be a bad health concern.  But, if this persists then the cowfish will become weaker and less able to defend itself from infections and illness. >
  If anyone has any solutions I would greatly appreciate it!  I am very worried and don't want to lose Mr. Cow.  And I don't like to see him
suffer because it breaks my heart.  Thank you.
<Just keep monitoring the little guy, make sure that you offer it fresh and meaty foods now.  Try to spoil him with his favorite "treats".  I think that if you are going to trade in the trigger to the LFS then maybe think about getting some equipment to set up a QT for this cowfish.  It is a good investment, and if you use it once then it has paid for itself.  Be sure to look through our FAQs, and also check out the e-group being offered through yahoo.  Hope that helps.  -Magnus>

Re: Please help Mr. Cow!
Hi Magnus,
Thank you for your quick response!
<That's what we are here for.  We worry about your fish almost as much as you do!>
To answer your question - no changes were made to the tank.  I wish it were something so predictable.  My husband and I did bring our Trigger to our LFS.  Mr. Cow is still behaving oddly.  
<Darn I was hoping it could have been something changed, so it could be a possibly quick fix.>
And yes I had already joined the newsgroup at yahoo for cowfishes last week before contacting you.  Basically none of the members knew what to make of it.  Some said to wait a few weeks and that it might be a phase.
<Well they are very knowledgeable on the subject of cowfish, a few of them there are the ones that taught me.>
I also looked at the links you had also sent me at wet web media.  I found nothing and that's why I wrote to you.  (By the way are there more than just 2 pages of FAQ's on cowfishes at wet web media?.  I had seen only 2 pages and when you had sent me the links they were the same
pages.  Are there more?  Perhaps I am missing something.)
<Hopefully more pages will be added in the near future...>
So in conclusion it has been well over a week and Mr. Cow still isn't eating, isn't responsive and is bumping into things?  Do you know what
it could be?  
<It's that mysterious illness that fish get ever once and awhile.. no visible signs of sickness, no reason for it.  It's times like that when you wish the fish could just tell you what is wrong.  I've lost a few random fish though the years by having similar problems, and have had as many fish suddenly get better with little to no help from me at all.>
We wouldn't even know what to treat him with in a quarantine tank.  Oh - his face seems to be getting paler (whiter).  As in humans when we are ill and  our complexions pale.  I guess we will set up a quarantine tank and wait and see what happens.  
<I found a really nice article discussing how to set up Quarantine tanks, it gives you a general how to.
http://www.reefnut.com/Quarantine%20Article.htm
I highly recommend checking out the Forum on Reefnut, there are a couple people who are extremely knowledgeable on medications and will no doubt be able to help.>
If you have any ideas what this illness could be please let me know.  I gather once fish start bumping into things they don't generally last.
Thanks for all of your help!!!!!
<Not sure yet.. but I'm looking around for anything that can help.  Not all fish that bump into things are marked for death, many times medicines do cure this up.  But, check out Reefnut, see if one of them on the forum might help.>
Sincerely, Kara
<Wish you and Mr. Cow the Best -Magnus>

Re: Please help Mr. Cow!
Hello again!
Sorry to bother you AGAIN.  
<No problem.  that is what we are here for.>
But I just noticed last night that Mr. Cow (by the way - nothing has changed yet.  He's still bumping into things and not eating) has a "bubble" in his left eye.  It's above his pupil in the outer ring of the eye. I hope I am describing this correctly.  It looks like an air bubble if that's even possible.  It is crystal clear - no puss or any signs of infection.  Do you know what this "bubble" could be?  It doesn't protrude from the eye either. It's like it's a part of the eye but of course it doesn't belong there.  This bubble just appeared yesterday.  I am worried that it will grow larger and larger.
<Have you tried a freshwater dip yet for your cowfish?  I might try that if you haven't already.  Do a 5 minute dip to see if it helps.  Also, I had a friend who had a similar issues with a porcupine puffer, he ended up having a quarantine tank set up with Hypo-salinity.  He lowered salinity to 1.018-19 and kept the fish in there for a while.  It seemed to have a marked improvement.  The fish can handle it, while the bacteria and parasites could not.  Cowfish/puffer/triggers are often found swimming in to brackish environments to clear themselves of pests.>
Once again, thanks for your help.  Have a Happy New Year!!
<I do hope that you guy gets better.  -Magnus>

Boxfish died
Hi crew,
<Hi! Ananda here tonight...>
I am sad to report that my little yellow spotted boxfish ( and I mean little) died today   :-(
<Sorry to hear that.>
On waking this morning, I checked the tank, and noticed he was swimming with a fin clamped on one side, and it appeared to have a 'pod' of some sort hooked onto it.
<A parasitic arthropod of some sort, I suspect.>
I was watching him, and he backed right into my Malu anemone.....Hmmmm didn't like the look of that, so I did my "ER" routine, and did a 10% water change, using the changed out water to immediately fill a hospital tank.
<In this case, I would have used non-tank water, from the stuff that you keep ready for a water change.>
(I keep filter sponge for my little air powered hospital filter lying inside my canister, so that I can get a little tank running in a few minutes if needs be).
<Good plan. Do rinse out the sponge in tap water to kill off anything now, and pop it back in to re-cycle.>
An hour later, he/she seemed OK, if a little bewildered.....but
The poor little chap unfortunately expired during the course of the day, and is now covered with a whitish coat (don't think it's an infestation, because it was so quick).
<There are diseases that can move that quickly, but in this case, I agree.>
Anyway, the tankmates......a Yellow tang, a couple of percula clowns, shrimp anemone and a few cleanup crew, seem OK.....but
(here's my question)
Is there anything I should be doing precaution wise, and is there any way I can test to see if the boxfish released any toxin?
<I don't think there's anything you could buy off-the-shelf to test for the toxins. But I would immediately put a goodly amount of quality activated carbon and perhaps a Polyfilter in the canister filter.>
Should I just do a succession of water changes?
<That will help, too.>
Is it possible that the Malu zapped the boxfish when he backed into it, rather than it being an illness?
<Both are possible, but the boxfish's reaction after its encounter with the anemone leads me to suspect it's the culprit in this case.>
The tank is 240 litres and the boxfish must have been a total of about 1 cubic centimetre in volume (easy one with cubic fishes...huh?)
<Good grief, that is tiny.>
cheers, and thanks for invaluable help in the past.
Bob ( UK)
<You're quite welcome. --Ananda>

Re: Boxfish died......
Hey Thanks Ananda!
<Sure thing.>
I've already got the carbon running anyway, and the main canister filter top layer is a double thickness of PolyFilter ( which I run as a usual course of action).
<I'd change the carbon if it's more than a week old.>
I'll up my water changes for a while, and keep an eye on things.
The "box" was very small, and maybe just wasn't really up to life in the tank, but he/she was to cute to miss........
It's funny how taking out 1/24000th of the volume of a tank can leave it so empty.......the little chap seemed to be everywhere, nosing around.......
<The size comparison you're mentioning -- 1 cu cm fish in a 240 litre tank -- makes me realize just how much area these fish will cover, given a chance. Should you get another one later, do consider a bigger tank as it gets older! (Your 240 litres is about 63 gallons... not a large tank by any means, for a marine system.)>
Thanks for the advice
Bob (UK)
<You're quiet welcome. --Ananda>

Boxfish acting "funny", but no one's laughing
Hi guys,
I have an adult yellow boxfish. It has been in my tank for about three
weeks and had been eating okay. Yesterday I found it on one side at the
bottom of my tank. It shows no sign of ick or any discoloration. It's
fins all are clear and still move, but as I said it just lays on it's
side. My tank is well established and is a 150 gallon. I have a dwarf
angel a Clark clown one anemone and lot's of live rock. Please help!!!
Scott
<Mmm, it may be that this fish is still "settling in"... and Boxfishes, like all puffers, do occasionally go on "feeding strikes", often with no discernible "reason". I would be patient here (for about a week)... and try offering a myriad of frozen/defrosted meaty foods... particularly a whole cocktail shrimp (sans sauce) and an opened bivalve/clam or mussel. If this animal is still not eating in a week, please write back. Bob Fenner>

Boxfish, in the big aquarium in the sky
Yeah he went on a feeding strike. In fact he went on a breathing strike too! It blows!!! Or doesn't, rather. He's gone.
<Appreciate the humor, sorry for the loss>
I appreciate the help but my fears were realized Wednesday. I found him in the same place on
his back and since there were no free weights in my tank I can only assume he had passed. I zip locked him in a bag with some water and
froze him. I understand this is still the most humane method, even though he was for sure dead, in removing a fish from your tank.
<Wish you were my neighbor, make that the prez!>
Anyway thanks for the help. I am just glad I wasn't attached. I really hate to lose any fish but it is so much worse when you've had them for a while.
Peace,
Scott
<And to you my friend. Bob Fenner>

Longhorn Cowfish with Ich  (7/25/04)
Hi there  <Hi there to you as well Leslie here this evening!>
I have a Longhorn Cowfish that has ich. < Awwwww bummer I'm sorry.  It's  not unusual for these guys to get ich. They are ich magnets. > I have tried the kick ich treatment and it doesn't seem to be working. < I have not had much luck with this product either>  I was wondering if there is anything that I can do for my fish. <  My preferred treatment is hyposalinity I find it quite effective and the fish seem to do very well. The nice part is the fish can be treated in the main tank as long as you have no critters that will be adversely effected by hyposalinity. The following links will tell you all you need to know to do this.....
Hyposalinity: http://petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/martrthyposalfaqs.htm
Marine Ich: Fighting The War On Two Fronts:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm
Ich: http://petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/marineich.html and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm
Please also see this article and the associated FAQs
The Three Sets of Factors that Determine Livestock Health http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm
If you can help me out that would be great. Michelle
< I hope this helps, best of luck with your Cowfish, Leslie>

Strange color on Cowfish (5/15/04)
Hey you guys! <Hi there, you have Leslie here tonight>
I hope you can help me on this one... < I will do my best> I just purchased a Lactoria cornuta from the LFS. He's about 1.25 in and he's spotted in a strange manner. I included a picture. I'm keeping him under quarantine for a month < Excellent plan> and I hope he doesn't have ich < they are prone to ich> or some other disease because I only have Coppersafe and can't seem to find any formalin-only med in my area (rid-ich doesn't qualify I suppose). <No worries, there are several meds available online. Two good sources are .... Dr Foster and Smith http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/NavResults.cfm?Ne=40000&ref=3167&subref=AC&N=2004+113521 
and National Fish Pharmaceuticals http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/ 
It is a good idea to keep some of the common ones on hand. I prefer freshwater dips and hyposalinity for ich myself.>
Can you identify if the spotting is normal or not? and if not what is the recommended remedy - and what is the creative remedy! < It is really hard to tell from that photo but his markings look normal form what I can see. Have a look here and compare your fish to these for a better idea
http://www.divegallery.com/cowfish.htm 
http://www.divegallery.com/cowfish_pair.htm >
I plan to put him in a 29 gal for about 6 months and then transfer him in a 75 gal. The fish in the 29 gal are 2 Amphiprion ocellaris of 1.5 inches (clownfish) - 1 Chromis xanthurus of 1.5 inches (yellowtail damsel) - 1 very mild mannered Diodon nicthemerus of 2 inches (porcupine puffer) - 1 Canthigaster epilamprus of 2 inches (blue dot puffer) - a bunch of hermit crabs and a coral banded shrimp and a Mithrax crab - see the puffers are very mild! <They are still small and young> the only bullying going on is the damsel chasing the fish out of it's live rock caves. I know I might be overstocked a tad <I would say a few tads more than a tad> but so far everyone seems cozy and the 75ver should make it roomier for when they grow. <You are looking at 240 plus gallons for when they grow. A general rule of thumb is 10g per inch of Puffer. Your Cowfish has the potential of reaching 19 inches and that Puffer 24 inches.
Here are the specifics:
Specific Gravity - 1.020
Ammonia - 0pmm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - < 50ppm < this is a tad high under 20 would be much better for your fish>
pH - 8.2
temperature - 80F
and the setup is:
1 hang- on filter 125gph
1 Prizm skimmer
20 lb of live rock
crushed coral sub
thanks in advance for your time! José
<Your welcome, Leslie> 

How Is The Cow Now? (Sick Cowfish) 
I have a very gorgeous cowfish. He shares his tank with a yellow Tang, Sailfin, Trigger, Clownfish, Goby and a Valentini Puffer. I've had this tank for almost 2 years with no problems. My Nitrate, ammonia, nitrate and pH is all good. Last couple of weeks, I lost my yellow tang and my goby. 
<Yikes! Sorry to hear that...Scott F. with you today> 
I checked for ICK and did not find any spots. I'm an not sure what's going on in this tank. No white spots (ick) visible but I'm wondering if this is a parasite issue. My sailfin seems to be scratching on the rock and now my Cowfish is not eating and he looks as to be a little itchy. He also has a slight pink color on him. 
<Well, it sounds like you may very well be dealing with a parasitic disease of some sort...The lack of visible spots doesn't mean that it isn't Ich or Amyloodinium. In fact, the pinkish color that you describe could be tissue being liquefied.. signs of the more serious Amyloodinium...The fact that your other fish died quickly after contracting this malady leads me to believe that this one may be a distinct possibility...> 
What do I do??? I have a hospital tank all ready to go and I will put him in there. My question is, how can I treat the parasite issue? What medication (If any) do I need? Please help. I want to do all I can to help my babies. Thank you in advance for helping. Frank 
<Well, Frank, I'm glad that you have the "hospital tank" ready to go. I'd utilize freshwater dips, followed by a course of treatment with a based-based product for this malady. Follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly. Be sure to observe the fish carefully, and make sure that the fish starts eating again. Frankly, I'd remove all remaining fish from the main tank and use the "fallow tank technique" that we advocate for dealing with parasitic infections...Hang in there. With quick action on your part, you can beat this malady! See the WWM parasitic disease FAQs for more information. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Cuban Yellow Boxfish
<Hi Bryan, just want to apologize somehow I overlooked this email. I'm very sorry for the delay in response.> 
Hey guys I just got a Cuban yellow boxfish 2 days ago. Everything was fine until I got up from watching the NCAA games to find the boxfish stuck to the side of my filter. 
<This happens quite frequently with box fish. They can't swim very quickly and often get caught in the intakes. Place a sponge around the intake and it will take away the risk of it getting stuck on there.> 
I turned off and the filter and freed the fish, but I am worried that the stress may have caused him to poison the tank. 
<It's a viable concern, but it doesn't happen as frequently as you read about.> 
I have taken him out of the tank and put him in a quarantine, but how long will it take before I will know if he poisoned the tank? 
<within 12 hours you will see lethargy in the other tankmates. Doing a large water change will help dissipate the toxin should there be any in the water.> 
Obviously I'll know if the other fish are dead in the morning, but any there any other signs. I have already done a water change on the main tank and have my carbon running as well. 
<That would be the best course of action. Hopefully it all worked out well. Another thing you might want to consider is having a skimmer on hand just in case. If you do feel that he might have spread toxic material in the water, I have read reports of how skimming the water and doing water changes have greatly reduced toxin-kills.> 
Sincerely, 
Bryan Mortlock 
<Best of luck, and like I had said before, sorry for the oversight. I do hope it all turned out okay. Add a sponge cover to the filter and it will take away the danger of that happening again. -Magnus.>

Dip a Cow?
>Hi, I have a couple of questions on quarantine and dipping.  I will be purchasing a juvenile tank raised percula clown and a small juvenile long horn cow.  My questions are: will it be okay to quarantine them in the same tank (10 gallon with a 3" PVC elbow for a hiding spot)?  
>>I wouldn't unless they're both 1" or less.  I would also provide a few more hiding places, and/or cover the tank sides with black plastic so they feel a bit more secure.  Three of the four sides should help tremendously.  If you can get a 20 gallon, that would be much better (or a Rubbermaid tub).
>With the dipping, I have Meth blue I had intended to use with freshwater, but is it safe for the cow?  
>>The Methylene blue is safe, but I would be careful dipping the cowfish.  Post dip I would definitely place it separately from the clown.  Cows are one of the few species I've actually made a practice to not dip.
>Should I just use freshwater, or use saltwater with the Meth?  
>>I think an acclimation in separate vessel (all acclimations should be done in vessel separate from final destination) with the Methylene blue would be fine for the cow.
>I don't want to stress the cow out too much, in fear of toxin release.  Also, on another note.  I have a 2 month old 72 gallon tank.  50 lbs of live rock, 25 lbs of base rock.  25 lbs of live sand and 25 lbs of marine sand. Inhabitants are 2 turbo snails, a camel shrimp ( in memory of my peppermint shrimp, the happiest shrimp in the world ), and a handful of dwarf blue and scarlet hermit crabs.  
>>Watch the camel, they're not always so amicable as peps.
>I have been unable to keep the pH up in this tank for quite some time now.  I have carbon and some phosphate sponge running in the filter.  The pH keeps dropping to about 7.9.  
>>That's actually not terribly bad.  If the inhabitants are happy and healthy, then consider these other issues: wintertime in colder climates many folks experience sufficient build up of carbon dioxide as to lower pH.  Faulty/inaccurate test kit.
>I have done a 50% water change with fresh salt in hopes that it would balance out the pH, but with no luck.  I had even taken water out of the main tank to fill the quarantine tank, and the main tank is down to 7.9, but the quarantine is at 8.1.  Any ideas on what is draining the pH in the main tank?  
>>Not at this time.
>When I first filled this tank, the pH was at 8.4, so I figured a large water change would work.  
>>Don't fiddle with pH so much, 8.4 was fine, too.  You can QUICKLY kill many animals doing this.
>I know sometimes it is hard to keep the pH up in well established or older tanks, but this one is neither.  I plan on buying a buffer for it, but I am wondering on what may be causing this.  Will I need the buffer for the life of this tank?  
>>This depends, I would tend to look at these other issues.  It's difficult for anyone to say without knowing much more about the life, etc., to determine what's going on.
>I thought today's salt mixes were made to establish a correct pH.  
>>Allegedly, I like good old Instant Ocean, but prefer Real Ocean over that.
>Please, any suggestions would be wonderful.  Thanks again for the fabulous info.  
Cat
>>You're welcome, try testing with a different kit, OR, if you can afford it, buy a pH meter instead (be sure to calibrate it carefully).  Marina

Quarantine Query (Pt. 2)
Thank you Scott for your advice.
<My pleasure!>
A follow up question I have is why is it not a good idea to dip a cowfish? I have actually dipped him a few times for up to ten minutes and he did not seem to mind it at all and afterwards I could see that some of the ich had burst. I don't really need to dip him anymore however as the copper is working nicely.
Thanks, Matt
<Well, Matt, these fishes can release toxins when stressed or agitated, and this toxin can kill the cowfish or other fishes present in its container or tank. This is why I err on the side of caution with these fish. You're right, many specimens have no problem with such dips, but they can be stress-inducing, so be careful. Glad to hear that the copper is working well! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Boxfish Ostracion Cubicus sick after powerhead injury (8/9/04)
Hello All, <Just Leslie here this evening>
I have had a tank for almost 3 years now and the boxfish nearly that long. Two days ago he was stuck in the intake to my overflow box.
<OH no :(  so sorry to hear that.>
His skin injuries are minimal, but he is growing steadily weaker.
< I think there is a good chance you are dealing with internal injuries>
This morning he was on the bottom of my tank, but I nudged him and he went swimming around. Not very well I must say. He does not seem to have any external parasites, he has always had an ich spot or two. He also ignored food the last two days.
< Oh not good I am afraid. >
I am thinking of treating him with antibiotics.
< I really do not think antibiotics will help your fish...it sounds like he sustained internal injuries. IMO antibiotics will just add insult to injury and stress him further. >
Do you have a suggestion as to what to treat him with or is there something else I can do? .
<These fish possess ostracitoxin a positions  substance which they can and do release when stressed.  This toxin has been know to wipe out entire tanks and it's effects are not reversible. I think your best bet would be to isolate him in another tank. >
The tank parameters are pristine, the other fish are behaving normally.
< Well that is excellent news.  My preference would be to error on the side of caution and remove your boxfish to a nice quiet tank by himself. This would serve 2 purposes.....keep your other fish out of harms way and give your boxfish a nice quiet place to rest and if you decide to medicate him the best place to do it. >
Thank you for your time. Michael
<You are most welcome, best of luck with your boxfish, Leslie>

Boxfish Ostracion Cubicus sick after powerhead injury Follow up 8/13/04
Thank you for our response.
< Your most welcome!!!>
I actually did put him in an isolated, slow current tank (no Meds). I had to 'force feed' him, but the results are showing. He is looking stronger and more alert. I will move him back as soon as he can find food and eat on his own.
<That's great news Keep up the good work!>
Thank you again for the valuable information contained in this website! Michael
<Again your most welcome :), Leslie >

Boxfish Tank Nuke
Hi,
<Hi, Bruce from Oz, Mike D here>
A Couple of days a go my boxfish died and did what everyone is warned about, nuked the tank.. well almost. I think I found it very soon after
the death. I quickly did a water change and bagged all the fish and took them to my pet store to house them.<ouch> I have lost 4 fish out of 8
including the box.<Was it a Blue Box? That's the only species well known for "nuking" a tank, per se> My question is how to deal with the tank. I have 50
gal (200 litres for us Aussies), anyway I have done about 40% water
change.<You'll likely end up doing more, but I'd slow down and do it in more gradual conditions to avoid stress to the corals> The corals are looking a little sick, but I think that is because of the water change and moving all the rock to catch the fish.<You're quite likely correct here>
I have a protein skimmer going full bore and you should see the black stuff that it has got out.<THAT'S not from the boxfish, and may be the actual reason for your catastrophe> The worms in the rock are still doing what worms do, the bloody mantis shrimp I know is in there (and suspect cause this mess) didn't die (bastard) and can still be heard (yes, I have so far got rid of 2 but I keep hearing the bastards).<Are you sure it's mantis shrimp and not pistol shrimp? Both are extremely secretive and make the famous "popping noise"> I have cycled the tank for a day and put in a couple of blue/green Chromis to check the
water.<I'd suggest doing 5 gal/day and hold off on adding fish. If they break down, they're prime targets for ick or such and you may be breeding more problems for yourself. You don't need fish to "cycle" anything, a even the mantis shrimp will accomplish that for you> One looks ok, but is hiding in the rock (sort of strange for these type of fish) and the other after a couple of hours is panting and scales are slowly turning black. I'd get them back out, if possible, myself> I have been checking around the web on what to do if the toxin is released, all I can find is warnings. Yes I knew about it before I put the guy in. He was happy and feeding and
loving life for weeks.<There's a very real problem with boxfish that many people don't understand, being that they have very tiny mouths and stomachs, thus need to eat non-stop. Many that people think are doing well are slowly starving to death, and the smaller the boxfish, the more likely this is to occur, as even more food is required fro growth>
The list of fish dead are: Boxfish, Foxface Rabbitfish (he's death was not pleasant to watch)<very few are>, flame hawk, flame dwarf angel
Survivors (so far)
2 blue/green Chromis (well they might kick it due to reintroduction too early), goldenheaded sleeper goby, fake clown, coral-banded shrimp, sixlined wrasse
The stupid thing about it was the tank was close to being complete, with a little bit more mantis shrimp hunting and a couple more corals.<I'm going to go out on a limb and say I truly don't think the boxfish was the entire problem, with impatience likely being as big a culprit>
Any thoughts, suggestions and I guess actively calling me stupid welcome.<Never stupid Bruce, for as hard as it is to deal with, it's sadly all part of the learning process. You didn't say how large the tank is, what the ammonia and nitrite levels were, nor how long the whole thing has been up and running.  I suspect that you'll find you had high nitrite and ammonia levels (as evidenced by your skimmate) and that too much was placed in the tank too soon after it had cycled. You DID let it set for six weeks before adding fish to allow it to cycle, correct?  If not, I'd suggest using our google and entering cycle or cycling, as well as reading
FAQs on same. If I'm wrong, I'll personally apologize, but I suspect the boxfish is being used as the excuse, while it was quite likely just one of the victims>
Thanks
Bruce Moyle

Re: Boxfish Tank Nuke
Hi Mike,
<Hi again, Richard>
!Thanks for the reply, I eventually lost 6 fish, but on the better note, all is back to normal in the tank.<That's good to hear!> I am sorry I didn't give you some
info, so I will give it now. I cycled the tank for 8 weeks before adding fish (about 12 months ago)<OK, my apologies here. Many people rush to load a tank to capacity as soon as it finishes cycling, not realizing that tanks remain relatively unstable for up to a year>. Slowly adding fish every 2 weeks or
so between some corals.<This may have played a part as well, as with their constant grazing Boxfish can occasionally "bite off more than they can chew" and may well "sample" something that could lead to a fast decline>.
The nitrate levels were at 0 at time of nuking, the ammonia was up, but I think that was due to fish dying<Very possible, but the large amount of skimmate you were getting indicates a  lot of extra organic matter coming from somewhere>. pH was
normal too. I agree with the boxfish starving, just so hard to tell.<And even harder with boxfish. With "normal" fish you can tell when they are getting "hollow" but the rigid shell of the boxfish makes it nearly impossible from visual clues>
The boxfish wasn't a blue unless they are different colour before changing. He was a cream base with brown scribbles all over him, and
was 4-5 inches long.<These aren't noted for being particularly prone to release toxins, but being stung by an Elegance coral, for example, might well trigger it> I also know that there is mantis shrimp, took me ages to identify it, but it definitely is one.<This could be another causative factor then. A boxfish would quite likely attack it on site as it would any other shrimp, and a mortal blow from the mantis shrimp could DEFINITELY trigger a defensive toxin release> I ran lots of carbon to clean the tank and did one more water change. I have fish back in the tank, and they are doing great.<Excellent!> An article on cleaning out poison would be great.<Not a bad idea. while the odd boxfish/cowfish nuking incident does occur, two even more common causes are 1) household pesticides, many of which can wipe out a 200 gal. tank with just one drop, and 2) deceased puffers and porcupines that are "scavenged" before being found missing.  Any fish that samples even a single bite is usually doomed, and in cases where the tank contains a fish such as a large wrasse, the violent dismemberment of the corpse, much like a dog with a rat, is sometimes capable of creating a very similar condition>
Thanks <You're very welcome and the best of luck ahead>
Bruce

Cowfish Poisoned Tank
Hi Bob,
<George>
   I have a 120 gallon tank I converted to salt water about 4 months ago and went through the cycle and all my fish were doing fine. About every other
day I checked the salinity, nitrite, nitrate, pH and ammonia and they are always perfect.  I had 2 Yellow Tangs and A Powder Blue Tang
<Not easily kept>
and a few Damsels and about 2 weeks ago I purchased a cowfish. The aquarium store I purchased it at didn't tell me the fish was poisonous and if they had, I
wouldn't have bought it.
<This is mentioned several times, places on our site: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/boxfishes.htm>
It seemed to be OK for a day or two and then it kinda started just floating around in the tank, swimming a little every now and then. I told the pet store I purchased it at and they said that it was just stressed because it was in a new tank and that it would be OK in a few days. I believed him and then the next afternoon when I came home from work it was hung behind one of the decorations I have in my tank and it was dead.
I carried it back to them and they gave me a different fish to replace it. When I got back home about 3 of my other fish were dead and the others were
swimming around with hardly no life at all. Then, the  next afternoon they all were dead. I found out that if the cowfish becomes stressed before it
dies it releases a poison that will kill everything in the tank and it did. I went to a "Barnes @ Noble" book store and after looking through all their
Aquarium Fish books and reading about the cowfish they all said that it was poisonous and it will release a poison if it becomes stressed and it will
die instantly and poison the entire tank, and  it did. Over the past two weeks since this happened I have changed about 50% of the water 3 times and
one time I changed about 75% and each time I did a test on the water and it was all perfect.
<I would change ALL the water... in fact, if this were an account, I would drain it all, re-fill it with fresh and lightly bleach (acid) wash all... yes, killing all biota, oxidizing the ostracitoxin>
I have also replaced the  carbon in my two filters every other day as I was advised by the aquarium store. I have added a few damsels to it and they have all died after being in the tank after about 2 days. Every time they died I purchased 3 more damsels and about 2 days later they died. They all seemed to be doing well and then the next morning when I turned the lights on they were all dead. I am trying everything I can think of. I would appreciate any suggestions you have before I recycle my tank.
George
<Sorry to hear of the losses here. Please refer to WetWebMedia.com re how to thoroughly clean your system... and start over from "square one". Bob Fenner>

Disease
Hi guys,
<Hello> I am the proud owner of a camel cowfish. She is very little, only about 2 cm. She has developed one eye larger than the other and has not been able to feed for over a week now. She knows the food is there and tries to eat it, but it would appear to me that she cannot see when close up to the food and misses it by 1/2 cm or so. There is no sign of disease, no cloudy eye, nothing wrong that I can physically see. Just one eye appears to be quite larger. She is starting to show signs of distress at feeding times as she madly swims around trying to get to the food but is unable to. She is so little and I feel so helpless. Any suggestions would help me please. 
<I'd put some Maracyn in the tank. James (Salty Dog)> 
Thanks
<You're welcome>