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FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Systems 2 Related Articles:
Bubble Tip,
Rose
Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob
Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim
Black,
Recent
Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones,
Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: BTA Systems 1,
E.
quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2, E.
quad. FAQ 3, E. quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA
ID, BTA
Compatibility, BTA Selection,
BTA Behavior, BTA
Feeding, BTA Disease,
BTA Reproduction/Propagation,
Anemones,
Anemones 2, Caribbean
Anemones, Condylactis,
Aiptasia
Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone
Reproduction, Anemone
Lighting, Anemone
Identification, Anemone
Selection, Anemone
Behavior,
Anemone
Health, Anemone
Placement, Anemone Feeding, Heteractis
malu,
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Clown / Anemone Tank 8/17/08
Once again I find myself meditating in the presence of the Wet Web Media
shrine, looking for answers.
<We share!>
I have recently added a second marine tank to my collection. Well, I actually
put my old starter tank back into service. I want to turn this 46 gallon
bowfront into a clownfish / anemone tank. I would love to add an anemone to my
120 gallon reef but I'm not willing to chance the losses.
<You're at least "Bud" wiser here>
I'm thinking of going with all tank raised specimens to increase my chance of
success. I'd like your advice on a few things, as this is uncharted territory
for me. I'd like to keep a Rose Bubble Tip Anemone and a pair of either Maroon
or True Percula clowns. These will most likely be the lone residents of the
system due to the bio-load. The tank set up is very new, only a week or so. I
used 80 lbs. of precured Florida aqua cultured live rock from my local dealer,
so little to no die off hopefully. Truly beautiful stuff, covered in coralline
algae, serpent stars, sponges, feather dusters and
all types of macro algae.
<Neat!>
I run a Marineland Magnum 350 filter with BioWheels for filtration and keep the
chemical filtration canister packed with Chemi-Pure.
<Still needs weekly cleaning...>
I'm thinking of getting a Hamilton Technology hood containing (4) 95 watt VHO
fluorescent bulbs, 2 being Super Actinic Blue
<Just one here please... see WWM re actinics>
and 2 being Actinic White. Metal halide scare me because of the heat over such a
small tank volume. Will this be sufficient for a RBTA?
<Could be>
My other questions are related to timing. How long should the system age before
introducing the RBTA?
<A couple months at least>
Lastly, should the clownfish or anemone go in first?
<Either>
Again, I wish you all well, and appreciate all you do for the concerned aquarium
keepers.
Shawn
Baltimore, MD
<And the same to/for you Shawn. Bob Fenner, out in (tonight) gorgeous Kona HI>
BTA, lgtg., comp. with Angels
7/17/2008
Wow, fastest reply...
Dare I think... Bubble Tipped Anemone? (384 watts PC lighting). Or is that
wrasse & angel food, do you think...
Thomas Roach
<Pomacanthids do eat such anemones... if they're unprotected... All stated,
where? RMF>
Relocating an Anemone, E. quadricolor, BTA – 6/14/08
So I have a 60g with a BTA. When I placed him into the tank he moved about an
inch to the left on the same rock. He is well established now, having been in
his current tank for about a month. I want to move him closer to the lighting,
he is down at the bottom.
<It is happy there, getting the amount of light that it needs. >
Every time I try the maroon that hosts come chasing after me.
<They can be very protective. >
My idea was to place the maroon in a bucket for a moment while I reestablish the
rock the BTA is on. My question is, will the BTA be stressed by this? I know if
he doesn't like the spot I put him in, he will move. What is the likely hood of
harming this animal?
<Assuming that this anemone is healthy, moving the entire rock that the anemone
is on will likely not stress the anemone for long. If you are removing the
anemone from the rock, this will cause stress, and I don’t recommend it. You are
correct, if you select a spot that the anemone does not find adequate, it will
move. >
I do not want to through a wrench in the system if it is working.
Thank you and I continue to gain copious amounts of knowledge from this site.
<Good to hear! >
Spencer
<You’re welcome! Brenda >
Re:
Relocating an Anemone, E. quadricolor, BTA – 6/16/08
Thank you for the response.
<You’re welcome! >
Just to bring you up to date, I dug out the sand underneath the rock and
propped it up on another rock, bringing it up about 3 inches. So not
much but creating a bridge (if you will) into a cave and gave the Maroon
the ability to host on a nice little ledge. I have attached a photo, I
was very pleased it worked out so well.
<Me too! >
Thanks again for the help. I really feel rest assured that I can find
information instantaneous and so accurate that I can trust.
<It is my pleasure. A word of caution, your anemone looks like it is
lacking food. I’d like to see much longer tentacles. What are you
feeding, how often, and what sized portions? Is there any chance that
the Maroon, and/or shrimp is taking the food from it? Brenda >
Spencer Hall
Re: Relocating an Anemone, E.
quadricolor, BTA – 6/23/08
<Hello Spencer, I apologize for the delay in my response. Things got
a bit crazy on me lately. >
Well I feed him about every three days, and a pretty healthy portion of
mysis.
<Too large of portions will end up as no food, as the anemone will not
be able to handle it and will regurgitate it several hours later. >
One thing that I thought was a little weird: when I place an algae
wafer in, the Maroon takes it and gives it to the BTA. The BTA eats the
whole thing. Is that common?
<It is common for clownfish to feed their anemone, but not common for an
anemone to eat an alga wafer. It needs meaty foods. >
I notice that after I feed him his tentacles become bulbous, and he gets
some bubble tips.
<Not uncommon. >
During the day he looks like crap pushing out waste (no pun intended),
and at night he is much more open.
<Expelling waste is normal, but it sounds like he is regurgitating a
large portion of food. >
What can I do to help this?
<Try feeding smaller amounts. >
I check my water every few weeks and do regular water changes.
<Good! >
Should I feed more often?
<I would feed daily, but feed tiny portions, 1/8” size for now. Once you
see improvement, you can try ¼” every few days. Never feed a portion
bigger than the anemones mouth. >
There is no one in the tank that is stealing his food in fact the Maroon
takes him more food after I feed him.
<Good, I think we just have a case of too much food at one time here. >
About a month ago I started using Trace Elements every two weeks. I
haven't
noticed any changes in him since but I thought that it might help the
whole
tank get some nutrients that are lost from filtration.
<Be careful with adding trace elements. Never add anything unless you
are testing for it. Most of your trace elements, if not all, are
replaced with water changes. >
Could it be the lighting? I am using a 48w t5. Currently I am running
1-10000K and three 460nm Actinic, all T5. I just added the other two
other actinic because my main lighting fixture turned both actinic and
daylight off at the same time so I wanted to add another actinic to
simulate the sun rising and falling. Should I replace the actinic in the
main t5 with another daylight so there is two and two. The tank is a 60g
that is 30" long by 18" wide by 24 (I think) high. Am I getting enough
light penetration? Sorry about all the questions.
<I would replace the actinic with a daylight bulb. Do you have
individual reflectors on the T-5 bulbs? >
I have had the BTA for some time now and when I got him he was very
little,
only about 1.5". Now he is closer to about 3" but still a little guy.
Also, on another topic, the tank also holds a 3" Volitans Lionfish. He is
a
great eater and an eater of only frozen food.
<He is not considered completely reef safe, and I would not trust it
with an anemone.>
I was lucky to have a LFS that got him eating only prepared frozen food.
I am having a little bit of an Aiptasia problem and I want to add either
a peppermint shrimp or a coral banded shrimp. I know that if I add the
peppermint, he is at a much greater risk of being eaten. What is the
risk for the coral banded?
<The same.>
Will a coral banded kill a lot of my cleaning crew, mostly comprised of
large hermits and a Emerald crab? Also, do you have any other
suggestions for treating the Aiptasia?
<Yes, the Coral Banded does have the potential to kill off your cleaning
crew. You could try the boiling water method. The chemical method will
work fine if you don’t do a lot at once. >
I am trying to not go the chemical route but I will if I have too. Do
coral banded really help?
<Not to my knowledge.>
I have heard mixed reviews. Well, sorry again to bomb you with
questions, but you have been so helpful in deed. Spencer Hall
<You’re welcome! Brenda >
PS I attached another picture, this time of the Volitans, he is a good
looking
guy.
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Anemone
Health and Systems – 4/24/08
My BTA is deflating in a very alarming way since Saturday morning. I
understand they can deflate to defecate but this is not it. I've had the
BTA for 3 months now and she has never acted this way. She is deflating
with mouth wide open.
<This is not good!>
I can see her cavity empty. She is releasing a very thick gel (no poo)
She will remain like this for the next 3-4 hours and come back to life.
When she does, especially during night time, she gets very enlarged
(over inflated) tips bubbled up, not normal for her.
<It is not uncommon for this species to have bubbled tips some times and
not at other times.>
The water parameters are PH 8.0-8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrates 0, the hard
Nitrates 0.5 (just fed 2 hrs ago) the KH 10. The GH text never works for
me but today is the schedule water change. There are a few factors to
consider so I need your help. First, I did a Blackout on 4/12 for 40
hours to control algae bloom.
<What is causing the algae bloom?>
After that my largest Clownfish changed behavior. He is the only
clownfish that was purchased at a store. He (or should I say She) is
projecting dominance towards my other clownfish. These acts of dominance
are staged on the anemone. Can the clownfish be roughing up the BTA?
<Yes.>
Could she be repelling the fish?
<It looks to be starving and slightly bleached. What have you been
feeding?>
On Friday I moved my small Hammer coral 5 inches down from the BTA who
sits in the top of a cave. The BTA did not show any signs of harm or
stress. See April 18 pic.
<You have only sent April 23 pictures.>
On that day I also change the power head that is pointed in the
direction of the BTA (on 15min intervals). It is a stronger power head
than the last one.
<Be careful with powerheads. I don’t recommend there use in a tank with
anemones. If your anemone starts to wander, which is a likely event, it
will be shredded.>
Because she looked fine around 5pm, I decided to meet with my clownfish
breeder to get more fish. I had 4, one died and soon after the
aggression began.
<You will have aggression with more than one pair of clownfish. Only one
pair per tank unless you have a system of a few hundred gallons or more.
Even with a few hundred gallons, there is no guarantee that the
clownfish will get along.>
That Saturday night I also purchased some frags a Xenia and a Frogspawn
from the breeder. When I came home to add the new species the BTA looked
normal. I positioned the Frogspawn 3 inches from the Hammer coral who
immediately released thin streaks of gel.
<How did you acclimate?>
It was late at night and I didn't pay any attention to it and went to
bed. Next morning the corals look great but the anemone didn't. After
finding out the chemical war I probably initiated between the two
corals, I moved the Frogspawn to the other end of the tank. Still, the
BTA shriveled up and released gel the next day. Can the corals be
causing the problem?
<They are not helping.>
The BTA is fed Mysis and little shrimps.
<You may want to try small portions of Silversides soaked in Selcon.>
By accident we fed the anemone 4 times last week (boyfriend forgot to
check the feeding calendar I keep on the fridge) I normally place the
shrimp on the tentacles next to the mouth and she picks it up if
desired. Apparently she desired all 4 times.
<Is there anything stealing its food?>
To add to it...On Monday night my mother in-law got me a Sebae Anemone.
It is sitting in the opposite side of the tank, attached and looking
great. I don't know if my tank is big enough to keep both.
<It is not recommended to keep different species of anemones in the same
tank.>
I will get a smaller tank to keep it separate if needed.
<This tank needs to be a well established environment for an anemone.
Six months to one year of age is the recommendation.>
I have a 120g tank that has been running since Nov 07, skimmer, sump, 3
power heads and VHO light system.
<Your tank wasn’t ready for an anemone. This is adding to the problems.
I recommend using Metal Halide Lighting or some T-5 with individual
reflectors on a tank of this depth. This may be part of the anemones
problem.>
The BTA was added to the tank 3 months ago Hammer Coral in tank for 3
weeks Neon green Nephthea in tank for 1 month Frogspawn Coral and Xenia
and a small frag of Porites coral were added on Saturday night
Sebae anemone, blue hippo tang and new small frag of pink polyps were
added Monday night (gift from the in-laws).
7 Clownfish (one died before the blackout)
<Yikes! That is a lot of clownfish! Five of them need to find new
homes.>
Yellow Tang
Blue Hippo Tang
Snowflake Eel...don't ask :)
<You really need to research your live stock before you purchase and add
to your system.>
I added pics from this morning changes 10am and 2pm. I will appreciate
ANY advice you can give specially in the landscaping area.
<More live rock would help. You don’t have nearly enough for a 120
gallon system.>
As you can see, it's very difficult for me to plan the landscape based
on species, temperament, light and water flow.
<This becomes easier in time with a lot of research. More information on
anemones found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm >
Thank you
<You’re welcome! Brenda> |
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Anemone Environment, Water
Volume, Allelopathy, BTA - 4/17/08
Hello,
<Hello, Brenda here!>
I've done a fairly exhaustive search on the following topic and feel that its
answer may add to the database. I found reference to 100 gallons as a minimum
system volume (understandably) for a bubble tip anemone.
<Many keep them in smaller systems successfully; however, more water volume is
better. I don’t recommend anything less than 40 gallons for beginners.>
Without debating other factors and assuming excellent reef quality water
quality, movement, filtration, light and feeding would it be acceptable to keep
these in a smaller dedicated species tank within a larger system, specifically a
20 gallon (tall or long) with a 15X exchange rate with a system approaching 200
gallons.
<That is acceptable. However when mixing anemones with coral, you will want to
run carbon to help with any chemical warfare.>
The idea, of course, is to display the clown fish/anemone relationship as a
refugium of sorts while taking advantage of the stability of the larger volume
system. I would not want to attempt this unless the animals could thrive and
reproduce. As an aside, would an anemone tank get along better within a larger
SPS system or a soft coral system with regards to allelopathy?
<SPS is a better choice in my opinion. However some soft corals are fine.
Mushroom corals, leathers and green star polyps, to name a few, do cause
chemical warfare in a reef tank. If you decide to keep these corals, keep them
to a minimum.>
Would you suggest a different species for this situation?
<No, I think you are on the right track, as long as water parameters are up to
par, do frequent water changes, and you are running fresh carbon.>
Thank you for your time.
<You’re welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>
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Trying to start a 29gal tank dedicated to bubble
tip anemone: lighting concerns
Bubble Tip Anemone/Systems 4/5/08
Good day,
<Hello Chris>
I've recently received (a Bday present) a 29 gallon tank package containing an
enclosed hood, pump, and carbon filtration capabilities after being out of home
aquariums for several years. I have maintained salt water aquariums in the past
and have always been interested in anemones. I would love to use my new setup to
dedicate a happy home to a Bubble Tip Anemone and Maroon Clown pair with the
appropriate live rock and invertebrates to make them happy.
<The tank is much too small for keeping Maroon Clownfish, consider Percula
Clowns.>
My main concern at this point is lighting. I read through much of the FAQ, but
I'm afraid I don't know much about the specifics of lighting to make as much use
of the information as I would like. For my situation I would like to modify the
hood to accommodate some compact fluorescent fixtures (I'm handy enough to
accomplish this part of the task), but don't want to waste my time, money,
energy and the animal's lives (this is probably the most important concern for
me) if this is not likely to be a successful endeavor. The tank is 15-18 inches
in depth and I think I can get 4x 55watt compact fluorescent fixtures fit in the
hood. Is this likely to be a happy environment for a Bubble Tip? If so, what
combination of 55watt compact fluorescent bulbs would you recommend?
<Should be more than adequate, three lamps would be fine. I'd go with three 10K
and one actinic. If you decide on three lamps I'd go with one 10K and two 50/50
lamps.>
What other issues should I be concerned with? Some issues that I am considering
are: 1) Raising the bottom of the tank with live sand 3+ inches to decrease the
depth of the tank.
<No need, the lamps should provide plenty of light.>
2) Having adequate water flow.
<300 gph total flow rate would do the trick.>
3) Is a protein skimmer essential for my tank?
<Does improve water quality and keep nitrates/phosphates under control.>
4) Appropriate invertebrates to assist with tank cleanliness (I used to have
"cleaner shrimp" and would love to have them again if they would be good
neighbors)
<Hermits and a few snails will work here, the shrimp could be an additional
addition.>
5) Choice of live rock. I prefer the nice purple color of Fiji, but would be
happy with whatever keeps the Bubble Tip at home.
<Your choice here, the anemone won't care.>
I think that is about it for now. I just want to reiterate that I am dedicating
the tank to the Bubble Tip/Maroon Clowns and want to do what is best for them
(with the only strict requirement being the reliance on 2 to 4 55watt compact
fluorescent bulbs for lighting)...if I am not able to make them happy I will
stick with some live rock and a few pretty fish:)
<No Maroon Clowns, too large for your tank. Do read here and linked files on the
Bubble Tip Anemone.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm>
Thanks so much for your help!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris
Re: Bubble Tipped
Anemone/Systems 4/8/08
Hi,
<Hello Chris>
Thanks for your help.
<You're welcome.>
After doing more research I agree that the Maroon (spiny cheek) Clownfish is not
the best choice for my tank. I have decided on a BTA and will focus my search on
a locally cloned one.
<Good, research should always be done before purchasing to insure your system is
compatible for what you want to keep.>
After looking at several retrofit kits available I feel I would be able to light
my tank with 3x55w PC (2x10K and 1 actinic), however I was reading up on T5s and
think I can squeeze at least 4x24W T5s (maybe even 6x24w). Even if I could only
do 4x24W T5s would these be superior to 3x55W PCs?
<Go with the PC's, the 4x24W would be borderline.>
If I did 4x24W how would you recommend allocating 10k and actinic bulbs? what
about a 6x24W setup?
<The 6x24 would work and I'd go with 2 actinic and 4 10K.>
And finally on the subject of lighting, what manufacture(s) would you recommend
for retrofit kits (ballasts, reflectors, cooling fan(s)) and bulbs?
<I'd go with the SunPaq retros. As far as cooling fans, they can be purchased at
Radio Shack. If noise is a concern, I'd go with Ice Cap Fans. SunPaq and Coral
Life are good choices for lamps.>
I am planning on using 25-35 pounds of live rock (probably Fiji) and since the
tank will be starting with this I am leaning towards curing the live rock myself
in hopes of having more interesting species survive (seems most of the cured LR
I see at the LFS is sparsely populated outside of coralline algae)...any reason
why this would be a bad idea?
<No, I've done the same.>
Would you advise occasional addition of liquid food for various critters in/on
the LR during curing or will decaying matter provide adequate nutrition?
<Would not add anything, waste levels will be high enough.>
Is 2-3 months adequate time to cure LR and is a simple water quality test enough
to let me know when curing is complete?
<An ammonia test kit will be needed to insure levels have dropped too zero. At
this point the live rock will be cured.>
I'm assuming it would be a good idea to provide at least some lighting (maybe
half of whatever setup I end up with) even during the curing process...any
reason this would be a bad idea?
<Very bad idea. With the high waste levels present you will be encouraging an
algae bloom.>
I also want to use approximately 1 inch of live sand for the floor...will this
speed the curing process or would it be better to add it to the tank after the
LR is cured?
<I would add after the rock is cured.>
I've been spending 1-2 hrs a night reading through your site on so many
different subjects...thank you so much for the service you are providing!
<You're welcome, and do read about live rock and curing on our site.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/Live_Rock/live_rock.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks again,
Chris
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BTA lighting needs 03/09/2008
Hi guys (you rock!)
<<Hello, Andrew here....Hmmm...Do we "live" rock? .....he he he>>
I turned my old 14g BioCube into a qt tank for my 75g, and I got a green BTA the
other day, it's about 2", very small, and I stuck him in there for the time
being, is there enough light in there to sustain him for a while? it has a 24w
10000k daylight, and 24w true actinic...he found a nice spot on a piece of rock
about 5" from the surface and seems to be happy there. when the time comes to
move him to the big tank, I'm just going to move the entire rock he's on...so is
there enough light in there to sustain him?
<<As long as it seems happy in there, I would not worry too much. I would agree
that when you move this, take the rock and all to the other tank. A word on
quarantine tanks here for future. Its always best not to use live rock in the
quarantine tank...Reason for this is because its an idea place to harbour
parasites and for them to move from one inhabitant to the next. The best thing
to use is pieces of PVC pipe, like house drain pipe parts and a bare bottom to
the tank. This way, there is nowhere for anything to attach too>>
Thanks, Rob
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Maroon Clownfish Species
Tank.
Adding an Anemone To an Established System 2/27/08
Currently I have a 120 reef, mostly a variety SPS with a few LPS including
Acans and Chalices. The total volume is about 200G if you include the 40G
refugium with Chaeto, sand, and LR for pod production. The tank has a pair of
Black Ocellaris Clownfish, 2 Pajama Cardinals, a Lawnmower Blenny, and a
Foxface.
<Interesting mix of fishes.>
This tank will be plumbed into the rest of the system creating a 250G system. I
was thinking a 150W 12K halide over the RBTA. The tank would have Live Rock, the
anemone, and the pair of clownfish nothing else.
Currently the system is 0 0 0 Nitrates, ammonia and nitrite, 1.026 Specific
Gravity, and 79 degree temperature.
<Sounds like a workable system!>
My question isn't about any problem with the system, everything is running
excellently. My question is about a new tank I am going to be plumbing into the
system. I am setting up a 55G corner tank 20" tall. I plan on keeping a RBTA, my
good friend has one that splits every couple months or so in their 300G reef.
<Nice!>
I want to keep the anemone separate from the reef in the corner tank with two
Yellow Stripe Maroon Clownfish.
My main tank has sugar fine sand, but do you suggest a sugar fine, or a rubble
in the anemone tank. I am looking at throwing a 20-30x flow into the tank with
no power heads at all for the anemone's sake.
<Good thinking!>
Overall how do you feel about this system, is this combo too much for this
additional tank?
<Sounds pretty good to me. I would just monitor water quality continuously.
Also, use of chemical filtration media would be a good idea, because the
chemical products released by the anemone could be detrimental for the corals in
the other part of you system. I personally like a combination of substrate
materials, so I like to mix 'em. Really, it's a personal preference. Hope this
helps! Regards, Scott F.>
Thank you so much for your time again WWM,
Cheekymonkey
RBTA
Adding an Anemone tank to current system – 1/31/08
<Hello, Brenda here!>
My current setup is a 120G with 35G fuge, and 35G sump coming to 190G total
volume. Lighting is 4x54w actinic t5's, and 2 250w 14k halides (definitely a
white 14). The system is heavily skimmed, the fuge is filled with Chaeto and
live rock separated by shelves over a deep sand bed, so that there is flow
throughout, keeps the Chaeto spinning and the rock and sand from being covered
in detritus. The system is stocked with a Foxface lo, chevron tang, 2xblack
ocellaris, lawnmower blenny, 2xpajama cardinals, various snails. The coral is
mostly sps along with a few pieces of chalice, and some zoanthids... Mushrooms
were removed to avoid allelopathy.
<Good choice!>
I would like to add another tank attached to the system for an RBTA and move my
two black ocellaris over to it, and hope with all my might that they decide to
allow the RBTA to host them. What is the minimum size for the tank that is FAIR
to the RBTA, I don't want to put it in a tank that is too small for it. All the
FAQ's I read about them encouraged large volume but I am not sure how much of
that is for the size of the RBTA and how much is for water quality.
<This is mainly because of water quality. However, the E. quadricolor can reach
18” or more.>
Due to the volume of the total system, and the conditions I keep the tank under
for the SPS I am confident I can provide the water quality for the RBTA, so I am
just curious of how large a tank for it to be able to settle in.
<I would not go with anything smaller than 20 gallons.>
Thank you so much!
Cheekymonkey
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Will my BTA live ? Lambda
11/18/07
I have a 92 gallon corner tank with 40 pounds of live rock and 40 pounds of
live sand I have a Nova Extreme t5 4-39W, all 10000k day bulbs. Is this enough
light for BTA or will I need more light? Thanks
<I would put at least 2-3 times that amount of light to keep the anemone
healthy, you are welcome, Scott V.>
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E. quadricolor, New Tank
Issues – 11/14/07
Hello once again!
<Hello Ryan, Brenda here>
I have yet another question for you.
<Not a problem!>
It never ends, does it?
<No, but this is how we all learn, and why we are here.>
Thanks for all your great help so far and hopefully you can help me out with
this interesting situation?
<I’ll try!>
I recently moved my bubble tip anemone and its clone to a new tank. The new tank
was setup with existing live rock and water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae.
<This is not an instant cycle. This creature needs an established environment,
including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6 months, one year is best.>
Everything has been going well, except the endless walking around the tank.
<It is not happy.>
Different flow and lights will cause that.
<The new tank is likely the cause.>
Yesterday I came home from work and found something interesting. The anemones
had been fed the day before and looked a little unhappy.
<What are you feeding it?>
I took a look and found something interesting? I've posted this on three forums
and no one has responded, which, in my opinion means no one has an answer? Today
the anemones look much happier and the "egg sac" in the attached picture is
gone. After I took the picture last night I noticed the tentacle started to tear
open but I did not stay up late enough to see if anything was released? I added
some carbon and did a water change just in case something in the tank was off.
<You need to keep a close eye on your water parameters.>
Thanks for looking, Ryan.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
It is just to the right of the mouth.
<Yes, I see this.>
Any ideas?
<Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here is a link to a thread that
shows eggs inside of an anemone. The pictures in this thread are amazing.
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a good article to
read: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm As far as what
is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to me like one of its
tentacles has become injured or irritated. What are the tank mates, including
fish, corals and invertebrates? Have you noticed anything bothering it? Are
there any possibilities that salt accumulated somewhere and dropped into the
tank, landing on the anemone? What are your water parameters? How long has this
tank been up and running? Did you transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how
long did you leave it cycle before adding the livestock?
Thanks again.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor,
New Tank Issues – 11/15/07
Hi Brenda, thanks for the reply.
<Hello Ryan, and you’re welcome!>
You are not going to like this?
<Yikes!>
I did the entire change over in one day!
<Ouch!>
After asking many people if it would be OK if I used existing live rock
and water as well as some Chaeto, they all said yes.
<No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.>
So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were fine
until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp I've fed for
over a year. My ammonia was a little high the day after and I'm assuming
that one or both of the anemones did not eat their "dinner", causing the
higher ammonia.
<The ammonia spike is caused by the cycle. This is extremely toxic to
anemones.>
I did a water change to fix the problem, a rather large water change and
after that they both looked fine. Here are the water parameters, ammonia
0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10 DKH,
salinity 1.025, temp. 79....I think that's it.
<I do recommend a salinity of 1.026 for anemones.>
The tank has a couple of frags that were attached to the live rock,
Montipora and that is it, no other corals or fish....oh other than the
one Palythoa hijacker. Please let me know if there is a way I can fix
this situation?
<I suggest getting the anemones out of there for a while. See if you can
find someone local to take it in. If you are starting with a new sand
bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6 months. If you transferred the old
sand bed, it will take less time, but I can’t give you an exact time
frame. It could take a few weeks, or even a few months. There are too
many variables. You will need to keep checking your water parameters.
Once everything has been stable for a while, you can put the anemones
back in.>
I assure you I did a lot of questioning before I went ahead with this
move and everyone said it was fine. Now I need your help, please. I did
not check the links yet because I'm in a bit of a rush and trying to
catch you today rather than tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor,
New Tank Issues – 11/16/07
Thank you Brenda!
<You’re Welcome!>
Sorry to keep this going back and forth with you.
<No need to be sorry!>
The sand is new, I thought I was saving myself cycling issues by doing
this rather than using old "dirty" sand, apparently I was wrong.
<Even when using old sand, there will still be a cycle.>
I have little trust in others in my area, I work at a LFS but don't want
my anemones there because they cram them all in one little tank.
<Ouch! I know what you mean! When visiting a LFS, I first look at how
they treat their anemones. I can’t count how many times I’ve left
feeling sick! I have found very few LFS that provide an adequate
environment for this creature.>
I don't know anyone else (local) with a tank that would be suited to
keep anemones.
<Wish I could help, I would gladly take the anemones in for a while if
you were local.>
So that being said I would prefer to try and fix the problem by myself.
I watch things very carefully and hopefully I can pull this off? I have
a SPS reef tank that has been doing great for over a year (started it
before that). Here's what I've been doing. I'm making 5 gallons of new
saltwater per day, letting it rest (with a pump) for a day, adding that
to my reef tank, then I take 5 gallons out of my reef tank and change 5
gallons on my anemone tank.
<This is a waste of effort in my opinion. You simply can not create an
instant cycle. Your new tank needs time to cycle. Dirty water is not the
solution. Once your tank has cycled it will still not be an adequate
environment for anemones.>
Not the best method but hopefully this will get me through this 6 month
period? I know you are not going to be all that fond of this idea.
<No, I’m not fond at all, neither are the anemones. They need an
established environment, no less than 6 months, no short cuts here.>
Do you think it is possible to keep my anemones if I continue to do
this?
<It is a possibility, but not a probability, also not fair to the
anemones to be kept in such an environment.>
My other option would be to somehow get them back in my reef tank.
<This would be my choice, with a slow drip acclimation to reduce added
stress.>
I would prefer not to lose my corals. That is an option that I would
rather not go for.
<Were the anemones in the SPS tank previously? Were there problems that
made you decide to move them, roaming, etc.? I keep anemones with SPS,
and have had no issues. My anemones do not roam, and I keep the SPS away
from the anemones. Granted, this is not a guarantee that they won’t roam
someday. Can you tell me more about your SPS tank? Size, equipment,
livestock, water parameters, amount of flow, RO or RO/DI water, is there
room for the anemones?
I appreciate your help a lot. Please try and see things from my point of
view on this.
<I do, (and the anemones view) we’ve all made mistakes.>
I am doing my best to keep them happy. I guess I should have emailed you
first, before I made the transfer. By the way both anemones look very
healthy and happy!
<This may not be long term.>
Thanks so much, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor,
New Tank Issues... Brenda! Refer Ryan! – 11/16/07
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Ryan!>
Thanks again!
<You’re welcome!>
The anemones were in the SPS tank before but the two used to be one, it
split and then both started roaming.
<Both are a sign of stress.>
They are also very large so their tentacles swaying in the current (lots
of flow) were causing problems with my corals and clam.
<Yes, that is a problem!>
I use RO/DI water, have 4000 gph of flow (90 gallon tank),
<That is a lot of flow, likely too much for anemones.>
a EuroReef skimmer, Kalk reactor, refugium with a DSB and Chaeto, 500
watts of metal halide lighting (10K), 100+ pounds of live rock, 30
gallon sump, etc.
<Nice equipment!!!>
My water parameters in the SPS tank are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate
1.5, calcium 400, DKH 11, Ph 8.3, temp. 79, SG 1.025-1.026.....I think I
got all of those? My SPS tank is packed full of corals and my main
concern is the anemones wandering or letting loose of the live rock and
floating into a Tunze powerhead.
<I don’t recommend the use of powerheads with anemones. If you must use
them, they need to be covered with something to protect the anemone.>
I can provide you a link to a picture to show you my tank so you get a
feel for how packed it is. My other thought was putting them in the
refugium but then I would have to buy an additional light and most
likely keep that light on at the same time my tank lights are on (not
sure why I think that?).
<I don’t know why you think that either. I recommend the refugium light
to be on at opposite times of the main tank. Placing the anemones in the
sump (with proper lighting) is an option as long as you can be sure the
anemones are protected from all pumps. Anemones going through a pump can
wipe out an entire system. Without seeing your set up or knowing how
much flow is going through it, I really can’t recommend it.>
I certainly want to keep the anemones happy so I'll do what I need to.
I'm also wondering if there would be a safe way to connect the two tanks
for a period of 6 months. I cannot drill the tank, it's brand new
acrylic and cost enough that I would not feel comfortable putting a
temporary hole in it.
<I don’t blame you. What size/type tank is your new one? How close is it
to the old one? What lighting do you have on it? Do you have any old
tanks around that you could temporarily connect to the established tank,
a 20 gallon or so? I do suggest running carbon, and frequent water
changes when mixing coral and anemones. The initial problems you
experienced may have been caused by chemical warfare, along with too
much flow.>
I really appreciate all your help. Here's a picture so you can see what
I'm dealing with.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1508.jpg
<Yes, a bit crowded for anemones.>
I guess the other option would be to cage them in with some egg crate
until they are attached and happy?
<There are no guarantees that creating a cage will create happiness. I
believe there is simply too much flow in your main tank, and possibly
chemical warfare. In the mean time, take a cup or two of sand out of
your established tank, and start seeding your new tank.>
Thanks once again, Ryan.
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor,
New Tank Issues – 11/17/07
Thanks Brenda!
<You’re welcome>
Wow the longest running WWM FAQ ever....I'm joking. I do have extra
tanks but connecting them safely would be an issue. The only way I could
do that is to have a pump in the main tank and a pump in the connected
tank, both pumping water back and forth, we both know you should not do
that. The refugium may work. I have no pumps in the Fuge, just a feed
pump from a different area of the sump which supplies clean water and
lower flow. I would need to upgrade the lighting but other than that I
think that may work. Here's what I'm going to do today. Take some sand
out of the refugium, add it to the anemone tank, take a large amount of
Chaeto and add that to the anemone tank as well. I am also going to try
and add some flow without having a pump directly in the tank with the
anemones. I think they miss the flow. Both settled in a very high flow
location in my reef tank so maybe that's what they're looking for.
<They are suffering from being placed in a non-cycled/non-established
tank. It is important that you get them out of there. This is not only
very stressful on anemones, but also one of the leading causes of death
in captivity.>
I'll assume this will be the last email about this, so once again thanks
so much for all your help. I'll give you an update in a month or so.
Thanks, Ryan.
<Good luck to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank
Issues – 4/7/08
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Ryan! It has been a while! >
I hope you’re the one who gets this?
<Sorry for the delay, I’ve been out for a few days. >
I wanted to let you know everything with the two anemones is going well, no
issues at all. It was a little rough at the start but after a month or so
everything seemed to cool off.
<Keep an eye on them. You are just approaching the 6-month mark. The stress that
the move has caused them over the last few months could cause them to rapidly
decline if there is even a slight problem. >
The anemones have not moved in months and are very happy in their new home.
<Good to hear! >
I seem to have a bit of a nutrient issue which caused a population of Aiptasia
to explode, but other than that everything is going really well.
<You’ll want to get that under control. Aiptasia can sting BTAs.>
I recently bought a used AquaC Remora skimmer, which will help with the nutrient
load.
<Awesome product! Keep the pump away from the anemones. >
I know you thought and insisted this could not be done, but with frequent water
changes and careful feeding I seem to have accomplished something most
apparently cannot?
<My thoughts have not changed. It is very stressful on the anemones, unfair, and
often deadly. See the before and after pictures that you submitted below. >
I also added 2 black and white clowns (tank bred), which love the anemones!
<Adorable clownfish! >
Here is a picture of the happy anemones and their happy clowns.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg
<It looks like they have lost quite a bit of color (zooxanthellae) since this
picture that you sent me in November:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg
This really shows just how stressful the last few months have been on them. If
there are no more problems, they should continue to recover.>
Thanks for all your help!! You’re welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank
Issues – 4/8/08
<Hello Ryan!>
Thanks for the concern and pointing out the color difference to me, but I think
I have an explanation of why they looked so bright before?
<Okay.>
That picture, the one from November was taken when the lights were off using
flash and possibly a flashlight. The color from the flash or flashlight is much
more yellow than the color from the lights on the tank. The reason I took that
picture at that time was because it was the only time the anemone was deflated
enough to see the weird egg shaped tentacle. I'm not saying this was a brilliant
idea to put the anemones in a new tank and I hope things continue to work out
the way they have.
<I hope so too. However, this photo
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg leads me to
believe this anemone has not completely regained its health. >
The lighting they were in before was 500 watts of metal halide and now they are
under 130 watts of PC lighting.
<What size tank are they in now?>
Maybe that caused a difference in color as well?
<Lighting does play a role in coloration. However, I’m seeing some white and
some areas that look a bit transparent.>
They have been eating when I feed, which has been very sparingly so far and
appear to be perfectly happy?
<Try feeding some small portions of silversides soaked in Selcon, and feeding
more often.>
I really hope I'm not wrong and this continues to work out?
<With an adequate environment, they will continue to improve.>
About the skimmer, it's located in a back chamber of the tank; the tank has an
internal filtration system so everything is hidden behind the overflow which
should prevent any damage to the anemones from pumps.
<Great!>
Thanks for all your help and if you would like I can give you another update in
a month or two?
<That would be great!>
Thanks again, Ryan
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
|
Re: Lighting
and Flow for an E. quadricolor, Bubble Tip Anemone - 10/04/07
Hi again,
<Hello Dan, Brenda here again>
So I've attached a picture of the troubled anemone, whom I thought was
doing all right for a while, then came home one night to find him
floating around my tank.
<Not good!>
I immediately checked on WWM (which is what I do when I have a problem)
and found that it is a fleeing mechanism. I am confounded by this
anemone, my water parameters haven't changed at all.
<Have you gotten the nitrates down?>
I don't know what would spark this behavior.
<It is not happy.>
My cleaner shrimp has started bugging the BTA a bit, walking around on
its tentacles and such, but the anemone has no tears, scratches, or
anything visibly wrong with it.
<Shrimp can reach inside the anemone hours after it has been feed and
steal the anemones food.>
It has a habit now of attaching during the day, and becoming very bulby
and looking pretty good, but not fully extending, and then at night
fully opening (almost 8" across) and either floating around or moving a
bit, and then attaching and doing the same the next day. I'm not sure if
that picture will help anything.
<It sure does. Your anemone is bleached. Meaning it has expelled some of
its zooxanthellae. Was it this color when you got it? It is also
starving. The short tentacles are a sure way to tell. With proper
feeding, lighting and water parameters, this anemone can recover.>
I cannot help but think I should just give up and donate it back to the
pet store.
<A good possibility.>
If you have any insight into what could help this poor creature, it
would be very appreciated.
<Feed small portions of silverside, krill, Mysis shrimp, or shrimp
daily. Small portions are the key here, 1/8” for now. Food soaked in
Selcon will also help. I would also remove the shrimp. Make sure all
intakes are protected.>
Thanks,
Dan
<You’re Welcome! Brenda>
Re: Lighting and Flow for an E. quadricolor, Bubble Tip Anemone - 10/04/07
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Dan>
It is bleached then eh?
<There is no doubt in my mind.>
I feel kind of stupid now. I inquired about the color to the seller, who said it
was just a deep water variety, and that since it had a slight green fluorescence
it was healthy.
<Always research before you purchase.>
I'll definitely not go there to purchase anything again.
<Shipping didn’t help this anemone either. All shipping is harsh on these
creatures. However, any shipping method other than over night is unacceptable.>
Its color hasn't changed at all since I bought it. Since it is bleached, maybe
that is why it is hiding so much?
<It is adding to the problem.>
I did as you said, and fed it a small piece of krill soaked in garlic.
<I have not used foods soaked in garlic on a sick anemone. The use of garlic for
sick anemones has not been proven beneficial in my opinion. I do have some
concerns with its use. The use of Selcon has repeatedly been successful in the
recovery process.>
I ordered some Selcon today.
<Good!>
It might take a while to get here though. It ate the krill pretty quickly, and
now its lips look pursed closed, I am assuming this is good?
<Yes, this is normal after feeding. Continue feeding a small portion once a day.
Larger portions require too much energy for an unhealthy anemone to digest.>
I will try to catch the shrimp, though I'm not sure if I'll be able to get him
without removing all the rock work, which would be too stressful on the rest of
my tanks inhabitants. So how will I know once the anemone is back to normal?
<It will be a darker color, possibly green, tan, or rose, or green and rose.>
How long does this process usually take?
<It is difficult to say, it could take a month, 3 months or even longer to
completely recover. However you should start seeing improvements within a month.
You will also need to keep pristine water conditions.>
Thanks,
Dan
<You’re Welcome! Brenda> |
|
Badly bleached... RMF |
Hello. I'm planning to set up a dedicated
40gal BTA/maroon tank 7/17/07
and need some advice. Just to come clean, I've had the pair in my 12gal for
3 months now and realize that I need to step things up (they are still
relatively small).
<When you say pair, do you mean you have two maroon clowns (or a pair as in one
maroon and one anemone)? If you have two maroon clowns, a 40g tank is going to
get too small. Full grown female maroon clowns (and if you have a pair, one will
always end up female), are even more aggressive in a tank with a host anemone.
Not only will she not tolerate any other fish in the tank, she will make her
male partner miserable in a small tank (and she'll probably start biting you
too). Seriously, just about any fish tough enough to spar with an adult female
maroon clown would be too big to add to a 40g tank.>
I want to keep things as simple as possible, so I figure to go the hang-on
route, skimmer and filter-wise--no sump. I understand that this
isn't a lot of water volume for an anemone tank,
<Activated carbon would also help.>
but I am religious with making weekly water changes, plan to use the best
skimmer possible, and keep the fish stock to a bare minimum (I am also aware of
maroon aggression issues, and will take care here).
<Hmm... having two fully grown maroon clowns and an anemone in a 40g tank is
probably not what I would call minimally stocked.>
As far as lighting, I'm unsure--I've heard that halide's might present heat
issues in a system this small. Would a T5 fixture be better in your opinion?
<In my opinion, you should get a bigger tank. Even a 65g (which has the same
footprint as the 40g breeder) would be better. Metal halides can cause heat
issues in any size tank. However, the heat can be controlled by keeping the
light at least 8in above the water's surface and pointing a good fan at the
light.>
Thanks for being there! Eric
<No problem. Thanks for writing :-)
Best,
Sara M.>
Re: Hello. I'm planning to set up a dedicated
40gal BTA/maroon tank 7/17/07
Hi again. Sorry for being vague--by pair, I meant the single maroon and the
BTA.
<Ah, this might be a little more doable.>
As far as considering the 65g, would I still be able to go with a hang-on
filter (yes, with carbon) with it's increased height and volume?
<Bigger tanks can stand to have more hang on equipment. So a 65g would actually
be better able to carry a hang on filter.>
In a 65g, with that single maroon and a royal Gramma friend,
<The maroon clown is still going to get aggressive as it gets bigger. But it
might work out. If you can, add the royal Gramma to the new tank first (and make
sure you have plenty of labyrinthine rock work).>
what other fish would you consider doable?
<Hmm... a blood red Hawkfish might be cool. Some species of Chrysiptera damsels
could work. Most any Dascyllus damsel could also be ok. A sixline wrasse or
pinkstreaked wrasse (Pseudocheilinops ataenia) might also work out. But for the
wrasses, I'd wait until your tank is well established and make sure you have
plenty of live rock. You just need to look for relatively small but
tough/aggressive fish. Be careful and read about any fish you think about
adding. And read about the specific fish. Don't assume that because one species
of wrasse might be ok, that any species of wrasse would be. Any of the books on
marine fish by Scott Michael will help. Good luck.>
Thanks again for your help, Eric
<Happy to help.
Sara M.>
Anemone Tank.
BTA Bio-tope....Adam J. back in the saddle
Hello Crew,
<Matt.>
I have a 60 gallon setup strictly for bubble tip anemones.
<Okay.>
My specs are: 0 Nitrate, 0 Ammonia, 460 Calcium (kept by a Korallin reactor)
11.8 DKH, 8.2
Ph, Temp 76. My system is 2x175 halides with spider reflectors, Mag 9.5
Return, 2xMaxi Jet 1200's on a 10 second on/off timer with sponges over intakes,
Tunze 9010 and 25 gallon sump.
<Sounds good.>
Recently I purchased a beautiful Indo Pacific Rose Anemone.
<Wild collected or cultured?>
He floated around for a little and then attached himself to a crevice in the
bottom. I have now had him for 3 days and he stays fully inflated in a shaded
portion of the tank. He was kept under 250 watt halides at the LFS so I know he
can't be afraid of the lighting that I have. The second day after I purchased
him I fed him a piece of silverside,
<Not really a favorite of mine for cnidarians to be honest. Look into Mysis,
krill, clams, scallops, and so on.>
which apparently was too large because he spent a whole day spitting it out.
<Yes anemones are very easy to over feed.>
I have decided to now feed him much smaller pieces. My question is. 1. Does my
tank have too much flow for these anemones?
<I would think not.>
2. Will keeping my calcium reactor on this system have any benefits?
<Yes.>
3. How long after an anemone regurgitates it's food do I wait to feed it again?
<Wait at least 48 hours maybe even 72, in fact I'd give the anemone a little bit
more of a settling periods before I started feeding that heavily.>
4. Will the addition of
dosing Tropic Marin's A & K hold any benefits?
<I don't see the need really with regular water changes and the reactor but it
won't hurt.>
Your time is very appreciated,
<The anemone is still settling in I wouldn't worry yet.>
Matt
<Adam J.>
Stressed Bubble Tip Anemone, Entacmaea
quadricolor, Tank Overheated – 6/19/07
Hi Guys!
<Hello, Brenda here>
So this is the deal, I've had a bubble-tip anemone for about 10 months now and
it has always seemed happy. It is brown colored with a very orange base. It
attached itself to the lowest point in the fish tank against some live rock and
stretched its body through the live rock so it could get light. It always took
to food and always opened up when the lighting came on in the morning. A few
weeks ago, the temperatures in the area went over 100 degrees and we didn't have
our air conditioner on at the time.
<Ouch!>
I didn't anticipate the heat (darn that weather channel) so I didn't have any
type of cooling for the tank when it happened. (I now have some emergency frozen
2 liter bottles of water to float for such days).
<Great! Using a fan to blow air across the surface of the water will also help.>
Now, the anemone will not come through the live rock to get light. I moved some
rock around to see what it looked like, and the foot does not seem damaged at
all. Its appearance around the mouth looks very leathery while the mouth itself
used to be very tightly shut but now stays open to about the diameter of a
pencil. The tentacles are no longer bubbly at the tips, they taper to a point. I
moved the live rock around it so I could have access to it to feed it in the
morning, but when I got up to look at my fish tank, the anemone was completely
shut. Is my anemone out of whack, sick, sensitive to light now, trying to get
better?
<Your anemone is likely still stressed from the heat. Leave it be, don’t try to
move it. It will move when it is ready. Moving it will add more stress.>
I've had the water tested at the LFS and they said everything is fine.
<I don’t trust tests done by LFS. You really need to be able to test your own
water parameters. Parameters can change over night. Pristine water conditions
will be the key to its recovery.>
The only other issue I can see with the tank is that a bit of my purple
coralline algae seemed to turn brown after the day of overheating.
<Your coralline algae will return.>
Thanks for your help!
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
BTA, lighting. 5/20/07
Hi guys how are you doing. I have a 65 gallon tank with 130watts of
Actinics,
<I would switch these out... see WWM re>
and 175 watt Odyssea HQI bulb, powered by a Rio 2500,
<Ditto...>
and a protein skimmer. i have a Maroon Clown and i am looking to buy a BTA
for him. I know he will accept the anemone because at the LFS he was
housing a BTA. I have great water parameters. some zoanthids and a carpet
of green star polyps about 14 inches long.
<May be allelopathy issues here...>
I was wondering if my lighting is enough to house a BTA. Thanks
Orestes
<For how deep a system? Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/btasysfaqs.htm
and the linked files above, and where you were referred to. Learn to/use the
indices, search tool... Bob Fenner>
Re: BTA, comp. 5/21/07
My tank is 36"L x 18"W x 24"H with about 85lbs. of live rock. It has
been running for almost two years with no outbreaks of any kind.
<Ahh, thank you for this follow-up. It does seem that this is one of the
"happy cases" where all Cnidarians have "gotten used to" each other. Do take
care not to introduce any new "alpha" specimens. Oh, and yes
sufficient illumination here if the BTA is placed somewhere near/underneath
the HQI lamp. Bob Fenner>
New Bubble Tip Anemone, New System, Over Stocking – 5/13/07
Hi Bob - Thanks for the site - certainly the first port of call for any
queries.
<Hi Colin, Brenda here! Thanks for the positive feedback! I received both of
your e-mails and I will answer both together.>
Yesterday we bought a large bubble anemone. On the receipt, it called it a
"purple base maroon anemone", but I cannot find references to that on the web.
<Try searching Bubble Tip Anemone and/or Entacmaea quadricolor.>
We were told at the store that the anemone likes to adhere to rocks, rather than
the sand at the bottom of the tank. However, when we put it on a rock near the
top (to be close to the light) it quickly detached and started floating
around. This was a worry, because we also have a large carpet anemone that
seems to be doing fine, and we didn't want the two to come into contact with
each other.
<Two different anemone species should not be kept in the same tank.>
Anyway, the anemone seemed to like the gravel at the bottom of the tank better.
It became very large indeed (dinner plate size), and even looked as though it
may be splitting. It seemed to be starting to settle. It looked great
actually. But when I got up this morning the entire anemone was sandwiched
between two large (40lb) rocks. It has flattened itself out, and is sitting a
wide but thin the crevice between the rocks. It does not seem to have reduced
its surface area that much - but it is flat like a pancake in the crevice. My
guess is that it may be responding to the stress of being manhandled a lot last
night.
<I don’t recommend handling the anemone, other than to place into the
tank. There is a lot of stress involved when an anemone is moved from one place
to another. This includes from the LFS to your home.>
But is it dying?
<I don’t know, would have to see a picture.>
Ours is a new system; we finished the cycle three weeks ago, and
everything looks good.
<Ouch!!!!! New system? Anemones need stable, established environments. Most
systems take 6 months to a year to become established.>
We have a 120 gallon tank with a 50 gallon refugium. We live on the beach in
south Florida so we filled the tank from the sea. Nitrates, nitrites and ammonia
all look good. We have a protein skimmer. Circulation is good. When we put the
anemone in, we noticed the pH was only 7.8 so we put some buffer in.
<I don’t recommend the use of pH buffers. You need to be monitoring calcium,
alkalinity and magnesium, with a full understanding of their relationship to
each other.>
We did a 20% water change about 4 days ago. Also, our temperature might be a bit
high at 80-83.
<80 – 81 is fine, anything higher is too warm.>
We have only 4 60W 2 foot fluorescent bulbs providing light. We are working on
getting some more light.
<That is not nearly enough lighting for either anemone. Both of your anemones
will quickly decline under your current lighting.>
Over the last three weeks we have put in:
A large carpet anemone, a sail fin tang, a powder brown tang, two saddle back
clowns, a volitans lion (not eating dead food yet, but showing promise), 3 sally
lightfoot crabs, 2 emerald crabs 15 assorted hermits, + 1 small blue damsel left
over from the cycle. Everything has been doing fine.
<You are WAY over stocked for such a new tank.>
Yesterday we added: Two large black percula clowns, they fought a little with
the saddles, but seem to have calmed down, pretty much kicked the saddles off
the carpet anemone.
<Your system is too small for more than one pair of clownfish. They will
eventually fight until the death of one or more.>
The bubble anemone, Two electric flame scallops (one of these might have come
into contact with the anemone.)
<You need to slow down here. I suggest returning the two anemones. At this
stage in your new system, I recommend keeping no more than the damsel and one
pair of the clownfish, at the very most. Everything else should be
returned. Please search WWM regarding cycling, stocking, toxic water, live
stock compatibility, and established systems.>
Thanks for any help, Colin
Second E-mail from Colin:
Bob - Sorry for repeat mail.
I have something to add to my previous mail: part of the anemone can be seen
through the back of the tank. The tentacles are somewhat inflated.
<It is stressed, and will only decline.>
It seems to be sucking in one of the scallops. I cannot reach in there to pull
off the scallop, and I don’t want to move the rock because it is very heavy, and
I will probably damage the anemone.
<Not a good situation you are in. The anemone will not do well in your
system. Moving it is going to cause stress. However, removing and returning
the anemone is going to be the best option for the long term health of the
anemones.>
Thanks again, Colin
<You’re Welcome! Brenda>
BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor in a Nano Tank – 5/8/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi Matt, Brenda here>
Throughout this past year I have relied heavily on your FAQ’s to obtain
knowledge in proper husbandry.
<Great! Happy to hear you find it helpful.>
This particular is regarding a new setup with a 24G JBJ Nano Cube. I have used
“cured” rock from my 200 gallon reef of over a year, along with water from the
same tank to quickly cycle the new Nano Cube.
<Did you transfer any of the sand? An established sand bed is important.>
My Nano setup is: 150 watt Viper Light, Remora Protein Skimmer, Koralia
Powerhead, 35 Lbs Live Rock, JBJ Auto Top off, Milwaukee Ph Monitor and so on.
My question is this, with careful weekly water changes and diligent checking of
water parameters, is it possible to have several 2-3 rose anemones in this
species only tank?
<It is possible, but I don’t recommend it. Water quality can go down hill fast
in smaller tanks. One anemone can quickly out grow a tank of that size. Also,
a powerhead can be deadly to an anemone.>
Also, what is the proper temperature to maintain such creatures? I am hovering
around 77-78 right now.
<79 – 81>
I would appreciate any input as I value your experience highly.
Thanks, Matt
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Shrinking BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor – 4/10/07
<Hi Brad, Brenda here>
Hello, I am fairly new to aquariums. I have a 55 gallon salt water tank with a
satellite lighting system with dual actinic and dual daylight compact
fluorescent bulbs. I have a Bak pak protein skimmer, a cascade 300 filter, a
power head, 40 lbs live rock and 30 lbs live sand. I have had it for eight
months. I just started playing with coral about 2 months ago. I have 1 tang, 1
maroon clown, I have one small mushroom coral, 2 large feather dusters, 1 sponge
coral, 1 polyp, I just purchased a BTA (4 to 6 inch) 5 days ago it has been
doing fine. It was doing great this morning when I went to work. I came home at
6 it had shriveled up drastically its bubble tips are about the size of long
grain rice.
<A picture would help. If the tentacles are short and stubby, it is likely
hungry. It needs to eat meaty foods like krill, silversides, lance fish or
mysis shrimp.>
Tested water, all levels are at zero the temperature was low at 72.
<The temperature is much too low for an anemone. Gradually bring it up to
around 79 – 80 degrees. What is the salinity, pH and alkalinity?>
I do not know if this is the problem or not please help. Has it died or what has
gone wrong.
<It could be the problem, or it could be a combination of things. It could be
expelling waste, what have you been feeding it? It may still be acclimating to
its new environment. Anemones will shrivel up from time to time to expel
waste. I doubt that it is dead. If it starts to look like it is melting or
decaying get it out fast and do a large water change. A dead anemone can really
spike the ammonia.>
Thanks, Brad
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
New tank, New BTA Problems– 3/15/07
OK so here is my 24gallon AquaPod. Its been running for a month, set
up with 20lbs. of great live rock in the display and in the rear
chambers (LFS got it from a customers tank) with lots of nice coralline
growth. Water movement is handled by a MJ1200 with a FLO attached, and
I just recently added a second pump behind the rockwork that has a spray
bar that pushes water against the rear wall and out towards the front
under the rocks. A 70W HQI pendant (suspended 6" above water level)
provides my light on a 12 hour duration cycle. (LEDs at night). A
custom skimmer by sapphire aquatics completes the set-up. Oh, and my
current water regimen is to top off with RO/DI/UVed water, and my water
changes are 2.5 gal. weekly with filtered seawater that we san Diegans
get for free! My long-term goal for the tank is only 3 or 4 small fish
(1 blenny so far, and I would like to add one or two small clowns, and
maybe an orchid dotty or a royal Gramma) and some mixed soft corals
since this is my first reef foray. I would also like to take a shot at
an anemone and see if I can create a symbiotic environment with the
clowns.
<A 24 gallon tank is too small of a tank for this anemone, especially
with corals.>
SO After 2 weeks, I added a Clean up crew (snails, hermits, and one
skunk cleaner shrimp) to take on the accumulating green algae. The
shrimp has been a treat to watch, and he eats readily when I add a small
pinch of ground-up dry food (spectrum Thera A+....looks like quality
stuff...) I have had a couple of the snails and one hermit go missing,
and I’m not sure if they're being eaten by the shrimp as well.
<They are not likely being eaten by the shrimp. There may not be enough
food available to them in a new tank. Crabs can not be trusted and have
been known to kill snails, small fish and pester anemones. I am also
not in favor of the bare bottom tank you have chosen.>
(haven't seen any harassment myself). Well, after another 2 weeks, the
water parameters have all remained solid, and yesterday I took home a
Starry Blenny, and a nice looking green bubble tip anemone.
<It is recommended to wait six months to a year before introducing an
anemone.>
After an hour of drip acclimation, I was very careful not to damage the
disk/foot, and was rewarded with a spectacular view for the rest of the
day and even night (looks great under the blue LEDs). Well you can
imagine my shock this morning when I thought the anemone disappeared!!
<They will roam to find a comfortable place. It may not find a
comfortable place in its current home.>
Here is how he looks now in the second picture.
<Under the circumstances, this is normal.>
I just re-tested all levels (all nitrates, pH, calcium, phosphate, Alk.)
everything reads fine....I've been all over your site trying to figure
out if he's stressing, or if he's just digesting!!
<Did you come across a recommendation to wait six months or more before
trying an anemone? It does look stressed. Digesting? Did you feed it
and what did you feed it?>
How often does this kind of behavior occur with other BTA's and how long
do they usually stay closed up for digestion??
<I can’t answer that, I don’t know if it is digesting, or if it is not
happy in the environment. It looks like it has gone into hiding or
splitting, either would be caused from stress.>
I was thinking at first that the halide turning on might have shocked
it, but it was under similar lighting at the LFS and I am reading that
they like lots of light.
<I don’t consider 70 watts of metal halide a lot of light for your
tank.>
So, that is it! Sorry for the lengthy email!!
<I suggest doing more research on these anemones. I also recommend
doing some research on the benefits of sand beds. Brenda> |
|
 |
Re: Move the BTA, sys. 3/14/07
So the BTA has to go. I want to set him up in his own tank with his
clown fish. I hope this will be of overall benefit to the tank. I have a
15 gallon and a twenty gallon high to choose from.
<These are really too small to be sufficiently stable... I would not use
anything smaller than forty gallons here>
The height of the 15 is 12" and the height of the 20 is 16" I would prefer
to use the twenty but I need to know the most economical way to light the
system. It will house only the BTA and the clown. Since the depth is not
huge could I get away with a dual fluorescent fixture, or do I need to do
something more expensive like a VHO. The BTA is currently under a satellite
VHO fixture but is about 10" from the light. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated. I want to keep the BTA. It is very healthy and happy and I
want to keep it that way.
Thanks in advance
<Please read on WWM... re... Here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/btasysfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Bubble Tip Anemone and Prime – 3/11/07
Bob,
<Hi Cindy, Brenda here>
I have a question about a Bubble tip. My husband got this guy on
Thursday. He put Prime in the tank today.
<Why? Prime is used to remove chlorine and ammonia. It is also used during
cycling to reduce ammonia, nitrate and nitrite toxicity. You should be
using RO or RO/DI water. An anemone should not be added to a tank until it
is well established. It is recommended to wait six months to one year
before adding an anemone.>
Now the Anemone is sucked back until it is very small and looks a little
jelly like.
<It is not unusual for an anemone to deflate from time to time. It needs to
expel waste. If it looks like it is melting or decaying, it is dead. Need
to remove it, do a large water change and monitor your water parameters
closely.>
What could be wrong with this guy and is there anything we can do to help
him?
<Without more information on your tank such as equipment, age, water
parameters, and as to why Prime was added, I can’t offer much help.>
He did try to feed him today but he wouldn't eat.
<That is not unusual for a newly introduced anemone.>
Cindy
<Sorry, need more information. Brenda>
Tank Temp, How can BTA cause problems? Let me count the ways!
3/2/07
Dear Mitch,
<Hi Jason, Michelle here.>
You stated that the bubble tip anemone can cause big problems, how?
<Oh! Let me count the ways! Anemones like to go on "field trips". Usually
at the most inopportune times, say when you are on vacation, maybe because
they miss you, and are trying to find you. This is when they have their
"golden opportunity" to go for a spin and get sucked into a power head or
your overflow with disastrous results. Not the least of which could include
dumping several tens of gallons of water onto the floor...imagine coming
home from a nice relaxing vacation to find that treat! Or just dying and
taking everything else in the tank along. Oh! The possibilities are
endless! Just let your imagination wander! I tend to think of them as
Murphy's embodiment in a reef tank! Anything that can go wrong, will go
wrong, and at the worst possible time!
Thanks
Jason
<Welcome! Mich> Turtle Weed/ Anemone Tank 2/20/07
I'm setting up a tank and would like to have turtle weed and an anemone.
I'd like to grow out the turtle weed until it covers the liverock, then add
my bubble tip anemone. Here are my questions:
1. Can Chlorodesmis fastigiata aka Turtle Weed withstand high water flow?
<Mmm, relatively high, yes... more than most hobbyists produce. I'd like to
ask you though... is Entacmaea found in such a setting?>
2. Would the Turtle Weed negatively affect the anemone or vice versa?
<May find that the Anemone doesn't open up as much, far... but then again,
might just be harder to see...>
3. I've read that Turtle Weed might release toxins into the tank. Will this
kill my anemone, fish, etc.?
<Only under "dire" situations... with regular maintenance... shouldn't be a
problem>
Well, thanks in advance,
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone/ Turtle Weed tank 2/24/07
I'm setting up a tank and would like to have turtle weed and an anemone. I'd
like to grow out the turtle weed until it covers the liverock, then add my
bubble tip anemone. Here are my questions:
1. Can Chlorodesmis fastigiata aka Turtle Weed withstand high water flow?
<Yes>
2. Would the Turtle Weed negatively affect the anemone or vice versa?
<Could>
3. I've read that Turtle Weed might release toxins into the tank. Will this kill
my anemone, fish, etc.?
Well, thanks in advance,
CCS
<Please see WWM... We/I have already answered this question... Bob Fenner>
Maroon Clown and Anemone Addition....it's that "and" part that scares
me...... - 02/06/07
I have a 60 gallon SW tank that I have had set up for about 3 years now.
<Cool.>
I presently have a coral banded shrimp (he is so cool!), 2 blue w/yellow
tail damsels and a fire goby/Dartfish (depends on who you talk to as to what
this fish is actually called).
<Microdesmidae is the family name, you go by that there is no
confusion....as you elude to it's not the case with common names.>
I am looking at obtaining a maroon clown that is already attached to an
anemone. I know that these clowns can become "mean".
<An understatement.>
Do you think these fish will work together? My plan is not to add anymore
fish after this.
<Well it sounds as if the clown could adapt easily to your current tank
environment, I would be much more concerned with he anemone to be
honest. Most simply perish in captivity and have very particular needs from
species to species.>
I want to add more live rock (currently have 34 lbs), and would like to
eventually have a pom pom xenia. My water parameters are all good. I
recently obtained the correct lighting that I will need for the anemone and
the xenia.
<What type or anemone....what type of lighting?>
I have a UV sterilizer that I run 12 hours a day and a protein
skimmer. Thanks for your help. LaVonda
<A.J.>
Clown/Anemone Addition II - 02/06/07
The anemone is a bubble anemone.
<That's what I presumed but didn't want to make any assumptions? I take it from
your previous email that this anemone is either captive propagated or has been
in a captive system for a while....?>
The light is a Dual Satellite by Current.
4 lamps in 2-dual daylight(6,700K/10,000K) and dual actinic (420NM/460NM).
<Sounds like a powercompact fixture? DO you know the wattage on them? At any
rate if hey are PC's be sure to change the bulbs every 6-9 months...and when you
do change the bulbs I would go with all daylight (6,500k to 10,000k) or at least
to 3....the actinics are mostly for aesthetics.>
Also has a lunar light built in (looks neat at night). Are you saying you think
this clown would do find in my tank?
<With he animals you listed I believe there is a good chance, always a risk as
you know.>
For the most part, getting along okay? (I know there are no absolutes here).
<correct.>
Will any of these bother the xenia?
<Should not....but...as you know there are risks involved when housing
anemones/sessile inverts in the same tank. Some are willing to take those risks,
others are not. Be sure to research the specific needs of the anemone before
adding. Adam J.>
Clown/Anemone III - 02/06/07
The lamps are 65w, and yes, the anemone has been in a captive system for a
while (don't know how long).
<Okay, sounds good...do keep in mind if the anemone "scares" you
big surrogate
hosts such as Sarcophyton are great too (my experience/opinion) Adam J.>
Re: Nitrite & Anemone 1/29/07, BTA sys./lambda
Dear Mr. Fenner/James
Thanks for the Article on Anemones.
<You're welcome>
One thing to clarify though, I use 4 Osram Compact Florescent Lamps: CFL
(Daylight) each with 120W/6500K and the CRI: 85 therefore altogether they
produce 480W of daylight. My tank is an 80G tank (43L x 18W x 24H). Please let
me know whether the lighting will be adequate for the Quadricolor Anemone.
<With your 24" tank depth, it will be borderline unless the anemone decides to
move to the upper one third of the tank.>
Also let me know how to measure whether a bulb is full spectrum, broad spectrum
or wide spectrum. It is by the CRI value?
<CRI is Color Rendering Index. An index number of 100 would most duplicate the
sun's spectrum at high noon. Keep in mind that light intensity is very
important here in regards to keeping photosynthetic animals such as the
Quadricolor.>
Thanks for your support,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Akila
Re: Nitrite & Anemone/BTA Systems 1/30/07
Dear Mr. Fenner/James
Thanks for your advice.
<You're welcome.>
Please let me know what you can recommend for my tank. I intend to use Compact
Florescent Lamps as they are energy efficient. Do you think I should increase
the number of 120W/6500k/85CRI bulbs to support species like anemone. I already
have 4 bulbs so should I increase it up to 7 or 8?
<I believe two more additional tubes of the same wattage should do the job
here. I would go with 10K lamps rather than the 6.5K. As to efficiency of the
compacts, yes, they are efficient, but you have to keep in mind that you will be
running a total of 720 watts to do the job three 150 watt HQI's could do, also
resulting in less heat above the tank and more light penetration into the
water. James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Akila
Re: Nitrite & Anemone <sys.>...Ongoing, many subjects 1/30/07
Dear James (Salty Dog)
<Akila>
Thanks for the advice and sorry to bother you often like this. I have small
question.
As for the filtration of my 80G tank, I have a large canister filter, 2 strong
power-heads, 1 protein skimmer with a high pressure power-head, UV Sterilizer
and lots of live rocks. My question is that do I need an Air Pump? It is really
important to my system. Or is there any other filter system you would suggest as
an addition?
<Air pumps are not a necessary item as long as there is a place for air/water
exchange.
In your case, your protein skimmer is accomplishing this. I larger tanks, I
prefer a sump whereby the air/water exchange is at the highest level possible,
and much easier to clean/service. James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Akila
BTA Lighting Acclimation 12/4/06
Hello All,
<Jackie>
I currently have a BTA in a 24G AQUAPOD
<A dangerously small volume for such an animal>
(depth 17.5 ins) with 70W 14K HQI bulb, 12 moon lights. Just setup a 90 (depth
24 ins) gallon reef tank with a Coralife 2-65 watt Actinic and 2-65 watt 10,000K
Compact Fluorescent Lamps.
<Much more suitable...>
With the lighting change do I need to acclimate the BTA in terms of the amount
of hours I have my new lights on?
<Mmm, better to not fool much with the photoperiod, and instead initially
situate this specimen a bit higher (on rock) toward the lighting... in shallower
water... it will move in time per its liking>
I kept the lights on in the old system for 12 hours per day.
<This is about "right">
Also, will I have to acclimate my fish and inverts to the new lighting system?
Thanks,
Jackie
<Depending on how "light dependent" the various invertebrate species are (not
the fishes). Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Anemone Specific System – 11/22/06
Hey Eric,
<<Hey Ken>>
I had mentioned to you a couple of times about having an anemone with clownfish
in my reef tank.
<<Mmm....I recall>>>>
I had this combination for a few years before getting out of the hobby about 10
years ago. To me, you cannot beat looking at the interaction of this
relationship.
<<Would agree, fascinating to observe...and a draw to folks both in and out of
the hobby>>
I had a pair of maroon clowns and a bubble tip anemone. When I set up my tank
now, this was my plan again.
<<I don't advocate mixing motile and sessile invertebrates in the same
display. Aside from the issues/difficulties encountered from allelopathy, if
the anemone decides to go walkabout you can have a real mess on your hands>>
When I told you that I was going to do this along with soft coral and LPS, you
had said that a specimen or specie specific system would be a better idea if I
wanted to keep an anemone.
<<Indeed I did/it is>>
I read similar in Bob Fenner's book as well.
<<I hear tell he's a pretty smart fella <grin> >>
Can you tell me more about this as I am interested to hear more?
<<Mmm, well...in the simplest of terms a specimen tank is a tank set up to house
a "single" anemone...a species tank can house (if large enough) several
specimens of the "same" species...though this is generally ill-advised unless
the tank is quite large as most anemone species don't even tolerate
conspecifics>>
I have two questions. If I kept an anemone what else do you recommend that I
could keep in the tank besides it that would "work"?
<<Hmm...ideally you would not mix corals with the anemone, and you definitely
want to avoid other aggressive cnidarians and noxious soft corals (Euphylliids,
Faviids, Alcyoniids, etc.). But, were I to try this I would lean towards those
organisms low on the aggression/noxious scale...maybe something like
Xenia/Anthelia (do be aware these organisms can easily overrun a system) or even
Acroporids. I would let the anemone establish itself first, and add the other
organisms after...placed well away...though this is still no guarantee if the
anemone decides to move about. Be sure to read here
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm) and
among the MANY associated links re these amazing and virtually immortal
creatures>>
I am not looking to do just fish and live rock.
<<I see>>
The other question is, could I keep multiple anemones in a 90 gallon with
several clownfish?
<<Not likely unless the anemones are clones/asexual reproductions of the same
anemone. As for the clownfish...what usually happens in this situation is the
dominant pair will stake claim on "all" the anemones and spend their time
defending re...very stressful on all involved. It is best to keep only a single
pair of clownfish in this size system in my opinion>>
This would really be interesting if this would work.
<<You would need a considerably larger tank I'm afraid>>
My tank certainly has the lighting, the water flow, and a good skimmer.
<<Indeed...but not the space requirements>>
I have another lighting question: I notice that color appearance of corals and
polyps vary under the different color lighting.
<<Yes...many hobbyists lean toward bulbs in the "blue" spectrum
(12,000K-15,000K) for this reason
For example, in the store, the star polyps looked greener than in my tank with
the halides on. Once they go off, the colors obviously change. I have 10,000K
Ushio (I believe) 250 watt bulbs. If I went with a 14k bulb, how would the look
be?
<<Likely the look of the 14,000K bulb would be more to your liking>>
Also, do the corals prefer 10k or 14k?
<<Fortunately many/most of the organisms we keep are highly adaptable. My
personal opinion...if you wish to optimize growth use the 10,000K bulbs (of
which Ushio is among the best)...if growth is not an issue then I would
"experiment" with the different 12,000K-14,000K bulbs to see which brand/color
temperature best suits your sense of aesthetics (20,000K is too dim/blue for my
taste, though this would be great for a deep-water biotope)>>
Thanks and regards,
Ken
<<Have a great holiday. Eric Russell>>
Re: Anemone Specific System - 11/24/06
Hi Eric,
<<Howdy Ken>>
Well that kind of puts my anemone tank plans up in the air.
<<Tis something to think about, yes>>
Might be back to the mixed-garden again.
<<Is the "most popular" it seems...though I am hopeful
biotope/species/specimen specific tanks are becoming more prevalent as
folks become more/better educated about providing for the "long-term"
care of these wonderful creatures we keep in the glass boxes in our
homes>>
At what point do you recommend me putting an anemone into the tank?
<<In to a mixed-reef tank? I'm afraid I can't/won't recommend you do
that my friend. I know many hobbyists do (must admit to even seeing
such displays at the Waikiki Aquarium a couple weeks ago)...and many
hobbyists claim to be successful...though I question whether keeping one
of these animals alive for 3, 4, even 5 years is being truly
"successful" considering they are considered in some circles to be
virtually "immortal." I have seen too many times through my own
experiences (mistakes) and those of others what disaster
usually/eventually results from mixing anemones with other inappropriate
organisms>>
Should I wait for the tank to be more mature? By the way, all is going
well with the tank (knock on wood). Readings are as follows:
Ph- 8.14 (depending on my windows)
Alk - 10 dKH
Ca- 410 ppm
Nitrate- 2 ppm
I am also surprised to see that in the less than a week that I have my
lights on that I have coralline algae growing.
<<Excellent>>
If I go with 14k bulbs (HQI), will I still get decent coral growth?
<<Likely so, yes>>
I would like to change the appearance but not at the expense of stunting
the corals.
<<Not an issue...there's been anecdotal evidence that 10,000K bulbs are
more "optimum" for coral growth...the 14,000K bulbs will not stunt/harm
the corals>>
Are the 14k detrimental to the corals?
<<No...as stated, the Kelvin rating may not be "optimum" for the growth
of "shallow water" organisms, but as long as enough intensity is
provided (and you have enough) the corals will do fine under 14,000K
lamps>>
Who makes the best 14k HQI bulb?
<<Mmm...I have only begun "experimenting" with the higher Kelvin
temperatures myself after being a die-hard 10,000K user for many
years. Ushio and Iwasaki now offer 14,000K lamps and are quality
brands...and I recently saw some XM 15,000K bulbs on a friend's tank
that looked very nice (less "blue" than I had imagined they would be...I
don't want a tank that looks like Papa Smurf pee'd in it)>>
Have a great holiday.
Regards,
Ken
<<To you in kind. Eric Russell>>
R2: Anemone Specific System – 11/24/06
Eric,
<<Ken>>
When you say less coral growth with 14k, does this refer to all corals or only
sps?
<<Not just SPS, no...the 10,000K spectrum "favors" over higher spectrum lamps
those corals typically found in "shallow" waters (less than 30') in my
opinion. But as I stated previously, these same corals seem to do well under
the 14,000K lighting when provided with adequate intensity for their needs,
though "growth" may be "slower" under the higher Kelvin-rated lamps>>
Thanks,
Ken
<<Always welcome. EricR>>
Bubble tip anemone lighting 11/14/06
I have read through all of your questions and answers which only leads me to
know how ignorant I am regarding the correct lighting for our bubble tip
anemone. I am asking in advance of having any problems because I do not want to
have any problems. So my question is do I have the right lighting or do I need
to change. I have a 45 gallon tank 36 X 38 X12. Has sand and live rock. One
yellow tang, 8 snails, 3 peppermint shrimp, 2 fire shrimp and a flasher
wrasse. Want to get the anemone settled prior o getting a clown fish. The
lighting consists of a 36 in 96 watt actinic light and a 96 watt 10,000 K
florescent. Is this good or do I need more. The tank gets very little direct
sun and minimal indirect sun. Thanks so much for your help
Karen
<This can work with supplementary (meaty) feedings... a couple of times a week.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Bubble Anemone Lighting 11/20/06
so, an hour ago the anemone looked really good, now he is tiny and
shriveled, attached to the same rock at the bottom he has been the entire
time...is there anything I can/should do!!???
<Anemones will contract at times, but should fill back up within a 24-48 hour
period. Were any chemicals/medications added to the tank?
Outside of this, there is not much you can do but keep a close eye on it. Dead
anemones can quickly pollute a tank and threaten the life of the other tank
inhabitants. Keep in mind that anemones are not the easiest of inverts to keep
for any length of time.
James (Salty Dog)>
Bubble Tip Anemone and Lighting 11/10/06
Hi,
<Hello, Dr. J here>
My wife got me a Rose Bubble anemone yesterday, and last night I put it in my 39
gallon via aqua tank (it’s a real deep tank with 4 - 18 watt bulbs on top).
<Ahhh…a very beautiful anemone>
It is already clear that this is not the best environment.
<Definitely benefit from more light if live rock doesn’t reach the upper half>
The tentacles are not bubbled at all, and some are gray (off and on, one minute
it looks better or worse than the next). What would you advise I do?
Best Regards,
Holland Haverkamp
<Holland – both the lack of light and depth of the system can make it
challenging, but it can be done. RBTA’s can be kept in low light situations
(less light, more feeding), but they will expel their zooxanthellae, resulting
in poor color. I would first make sure you have a higher salinity (1.024 –
1.026 SG). Upgrade the lighting as much as possible, feed twice a week if not
more and make sure to use plenty of trace elements. Good luck. Cheers! – Dr.
J>
When to Introduce My BTA? - 10/26/06
Hi.
<<Hello>>
I've read many of your FAQ's and haven't seen the answer to my question.
<<Okay>>
It involves the bubble tip anemone. I was thinking about adding it to
my 55 gallon (once it's finished cycling of course). I would QT it for
21 days and then place it into the main aquarium. But my question is
that would it be better to add the BTA before anything else so that it
can get situated?
<<Mmm, yes indeed...though as I'm sure you are aware after reading
through our FAQs, it is best not to mix these motile creatures with
sessile invertebrates>>
I have created a "bommie" FYI. I know all I have done wouldn't keep the
BTA from wondering but I just wanted to know if that would help me?
<<Like you say, not if the anemone decides to go "walkabout">>
All intakes are protected and there are no other potential fatal hazards
(including other fish that will be added in the near future won't be a
threat to the thriving of the BTA). All water parameters are perfect
(e.g. 0 ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, 350 ca, 10 dKH, 75 F, etc) and 260
watt lighting. There may be things I have left out but all the
conditions are perfect for supporting life, all I ask of you is to
answer my simple question.
<<You have my answer>>
Hopefully you understand everything and write back soon.
Thanks!!!
<<Regards, EricR>>
Bubble tip lighting - 10/18/06
Hi, First of all I want to say what a fantastic website you have here, I
feel I should thank you guys for putting so much time and effort into this great
resource and keeping it free, fun and EASY to use. This site has saved me
(well, my fish) from disaster at least three times!
<How nice of you to say. I know as someone who has been working here for a while
its always a pleasure to read what people are working on in their tanks.>
I have a 60x24x24 (inches) tank with a large 48x18x15 sump tank (running of a
6000L per hour return pump, adequate?), living rock, 1 yellow tang, 5 damsels
and a pair of maroon clownfish. I also have a couple of pieces of mushroom rock,
some polyps and a toadstool coral, all of which I am happy to pass on should I
decide to keep an anemone in my system.
<I am a fanatic about water movement so its never enough for me. Your judge
should be how your fish and corals are doing. Are they flourishing? Or are they
just there?>
My question is to do with lighting for an Anemone; At the moment I am running
two 150w metal halide bulbs as the main light source and two blue actinic
fluorescent tubes for evening viewing pleasure.
I am keen to keep a Bubble-tip anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor) for my clowns and
having read your FAQ's pages I feel my set-up is large enough and
filtered/skimmed well enough but I am still concerned and unsure about my
lighting.
I understand that with most anemones more is more when it comes to quantity and
quality of lighting in the home aquarium, Will my two 150w's punch through the
2ft water depth well enough to keep a bubble tip happy?
<I think you will be fine with that as long as you keep your bulbs fresh. By
fresh I mean, replace the halides no more than 6 months from new and actinics as
well.>
If not, I was going to consider upgrading but I am unsure as to whether my best
option is to go for two 250w halides or to beef it up even more with 2x400w
halide bulbs?
<The concern that I have is that your tank is very long 60 inches and usually
the halides have a smaller perimeter than three feet. I know normal
recommendations from some lighting companies for that would be three bulbs or
possibly four. Placing them about every two feet. I think you would be okay with
the 150watt bulbs if you add one or two more. Even if you decide to add or
upgrade I would recommend at least three bulbs for your tank.>
Also, I am wondering if mercury-vapor lights would be of any use to this animal
as I do have three 125w MV lights hanging around which I could add to my current
lighting to boost the watts per gallon ratio, this would of course be a cheaper
(free!) option than upgrading my MH ballasts and bulbs, but utterly pointless if
the light is 'wrong' and not of any use in keeping anemones alive.
<It depends on the light spectrum of the bulb and I would be very careful with
those lights making sure they had proper cover. I would worry about water
getting the bulbs and them possibly exploding.>
Thanks for your time :-)
PS> This is the second copy of this email I have sent to you, I believe the
attachment photo that was on the last email may have been too large a file size
(therefore stopping the email getting through) sorry!
<No worries, we are working hard to get everything answered with Bob gone diving
I think you are going to do amazing but I would worry more about the entire tank
getting all the light. Good luck and if you have more questions let me know.
MacL>
BTA sys., beh. 9/1/06
Hello there!
<Hey, Mike G with you tonight.>
I have cruised your site for quite sometime and while I've found tons of useful
information, I haven't really been able to find the exact answer to my
question.
<I'll try my best to help.>
Yesterday I got a bubble tip anemone and placed him in my 25 gal tank (I have
about 20 lbs of live rock, two green Chromis and a percula clown, which I also
purchased yesterday in hope of it bonding with the BTA
<Perculas and Bubble Tip Anemones are really a hit or miss match. True and False
Percs tend to radiate toward the carpet anemones in nature.>
system consists of an Eclipse filtration system with original fluorescent
lighting
<The system you speak of is an unsuitable one for the maintenance of most marine
invertebrate life. Protein skimming is generally preferred to conventional
filtration methods when dealing with these creatures, and anemones are
especially demanding with regard to water cleanliness. Additionally, the light
that you are providing this animal with is less then ideal. Anemones require
very high amounts of lighting, and your chances of success increase with the
amount of light you provide. In most cases, heavy power compact lighting is
considered the minimum for a Bubble Tip, though I personally prefer not to keep
them in anything less then metal halides. I strongly suggest that you upgrade
your lighting, as it would be in the best interest of your anemone. An
inexpensive skimmer might also make a wonderful purchase.>
and he seemed to do fine. I originally put him in the center of my tank on the
live rock, and later in the evening he had moved up on the glass towards the top
of the tank, near the current from the pump. He looked fine, bubble tips and
all. This morning I woke up to find him in the same condition. I went out for
the afternoon and when I returned, I found him in the same place, still adhering
to the glass, but completely closed up (his tentacles were not even visible) and
was excreting a brown slimy substance (which I have read is relatively
normal). I realized that I might need better water flow since they tend to like
a little current, so I went out and purchased a powerhead and got that
running.
<Good choice/research.>
After a couple of hours, he began to open back up, but his tentacles were
completely deflated and dull in color. His mouth was also open fairly wide
which I know is a bad sign.
<Indeed it is.>
Now, his mouth has closed a bit (it is still open about � inch (or a little
less) in diameter) and some of his tentacles are plumping back up, but his color
is still bad and I can see some slimy whitish/clearish stuff coming off of
him. I have tried searching the site and haven�t seen exactly this scenario.
I think it might be dying because of the open mouth�.is there anything I can
do to save it
<I don't think that the anemone is currently in a critical condition. If you
provide it with proper current, lighting, and filtration by way of powerheads
(be sure to cover the intakes with a sponge to prevent waking up to anemone
puree), a new lighting system (I'd invest in a 100 watt metal halide fixture in
your situation, they are not all that expensive these days and would do wonders
for the creature. If not, look for a decent power compact setup (I'd consider
200 watts of power compact to be your minimum, though more is always a good
thing). Also, look into getting yourself a skimmer.>
and why would this happen so quickly \when all of my water parameters seem to be
perfectly fine (pH ~8.2; nitrates ~20mg/L; nitrites 0; ammonia 0; SG
~1.023) and all other livestock is doing well?
<Your nitrates could be lower, and your salinity could be higher (anemones tend
to do better at salinities of 1.024 to 1.025, and the less nitrates that are
present, the better.>
Thanks so much for your help!!
<You're very welcome. Good luck! Mike G>
Ali Myers
Anemone biotope 8/25/06
Hi! I have just purchased a 40gal. cube (24" x 24") aquarium with a 14K 250W
metal halide light. The tank has a nicely plumbed closed-loop arrangement for
flow.
<Keep those intake screens screened>
For system stability, I will tie this into a system of around 400gal. (120gal.
display, 33gal. frag tank, 30gal. sump, the
rest refugiums with Chaeto and live rock). Most of the rest of this system has
been running for a year or so.
<Nice>
I would like to set this 40gal. up as an anemone biotope tank.
Specifically, I would like to set this up as an E. quadricolor tank and use
tank-propagated RBTAs and/or GBTAs so I'm not depleting wild stock.
<Okay... would stick with one individual or be assured of the clonal background
of more than one>
I would like to start out with a pair of pink skunk clowns (A. perideraion).
Does this pairing seem feasible, with caveats to the whims of the individuals in
question?
<Mmm, yes>
Otherwise, I'm having a tough time researching the biotope in question.
What would be natural (as far as an acrylic box can be) fish/motile invert-wise
to place in this tank? I want to give the tank over to the anemones, so I don't
wish to include any other sessile inverts. I know design ideas are the fun
questions, so please go wild.
<Heeeee! Am not that sort of fellow>
Thanks for any help you can be in focusing my research!
Andy
<Mmm... the best approach I can suggest would be to actually go diving, take a
look/see around where Entacmaea are found in the wild (the West Indo-Pacific...
into the Red Sea), second-best would be to closely look over pix of this species
for clues as to what their world looks like, what is found in association... A
raised (in the middle) rocky area... Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone species tank 8/25/06
I apologize for wasting your time last night. Since then I found your
articles on Red Sea sandy reef slope biotopes, found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rssndslp3.htm
<Ahh, yes... I penned this series as an example to a friend (Helmut Debelius) re
how he might re-format his excellent dive guides....>
If you have any suggestions other than the wealth I'm finding here, please let
me know.
Thanks again!
Andy
<Mmm, wish I was home (am out visiting in NJ)... would send you scans of my pix
of this species from about... with them not "cropped"... hopefully showing more
of the life around... Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone biotope - 08/26/06
Thank you for your reply, Mr. Fenner! |