|
| |
|
FAQs about the Diseases of Clownfishes
20
Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1,
Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases
of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease 4, Clownfish
Disease 5, Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish
Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8,
Clownfish Disease 9,
Clownfish Disease 10, Clownfish
Disease 11, Clownfish Disease 12,
Clownfish Disease 13,
Clownfish Disease 14,
Clownfish Disease 15,
Clownfish Disease 16,
Clownfish Disease 17,
Clownfish Disease 18,
Clownfish Disease 19, & FAQs on Clownfish
Disease By: Environmental Stress,
Nutrition,
Social/Behavioral/Territoriality,
Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens: Lymphocystis,
Infectious Disease (Bacteria, Fungi...), Protozoans:
Cryptocaryon/Ich,
Amyloodinium/Velvet, Brooklynella (see
article below), & Mysteries/Anomalous Losses,
Cure, Success Stories, &
Clownfishes in General,
Clownfish Identification, Clownfish
Selection, Clownfish Compatibility, Clownfish
Behavior, Clownfish
Systems, Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes
and Anemones, Breeding
Clowns,
Related Articles: Clownfish
Disease, Clownfishes,
Maroon Clowns, Marine
Disease, Brooklynellosis,
|

|
Bad beginnings.., Sick Clowns
5/24/08
Hello,
<Hi>
I have a QT tank running with two juvenile false Percula fish. The bigger one of
the two was just added about three days ago to the QT tank and the little one
has been for about 5 days. I was having a little trouble feeding the little one
when I first brought since it only took small bites that I brought live brine
shrimp and began feeding them this food. The second day the bigger one was
swimming abnormally. Like a little titled to the side staying near the ground
and sometimes even putting his head down tail up. Seeing how this was right
after I feed them live brine shrimp I thought that it was a swimming bladder
problem.
<Odd swim patterns are pretty common with clownfish, and are normal.>
Than today he has stayed the entire day with the little one in a front corner of
the tank laying on the ground. I feed them food and they will not get out of the
corner. So, I got my net and tried moving them out of the corner and only the
little one stayed away while the big one returned.
<Not a good sign.>
I have no idea what is wrong with him besides that bladder problem. I was
thinking maybe since all the quarantine tank had to hide was two pieces of pipes
that together that maybe they stayed their because of stress or to protect each
other. By the way, water parameters are normal.
<Numbers please, most likely these symptoms are environmental in nature.>
Please give me some advice. I really don't want the big one to die. He was the
replacement of another juvenile smaller false Percula that was sick before I
brought him in the tank and died before I could find out what he had. These were
my first fish after 6 months of research and cycling and to have them die on me
is really having me having think twice about everything that I have done so far.
Thank you for giving me your time.
<Are these wild caught clowns? In so check out the article on Brooklynella, but
otherwise I would bet on poor water quality here. Try daily water changes for a
few days and see if their condition continue. Also check out here to see if it
helps diagnose the problem. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm .>
<Chris>
Clownfish, fin rot 05/23/08
I have a dilemma with my maroon clownfish. He is wild caught, but I have had him
since Sept. 07. My tank went down hill due to a pump malfunction, by the time I
figured out the issue, my clown had slimy white coating on his fins, and cloudy
eyes. I have corrected everything, and all is well except for him. I have been
doing wc, many. I was hoping to clear this up without medicine. This has been
going on now for about 2 weeks, I thought he looked better, but now one fin has
the white slime back and the patch is close to his body where it attaches. I
have a QT tank but it is housing a purple tang, who is definitely ready to go in
the DT, but will he catch this?
<No. It's environmental... not pathogenic>
He battled ick in the QT back in Jan. and has recovered with flying colors with
hypo salinity approach. What can I treat the maroon with ( I have furan2
on hand), and where. I would like to do baths and put him back in DT, I am
afraid he would freak and die for sure without his anemone. Will this medicine
some how remain on him and kill the anemone? OR should I switch him to the QT
and put the tang in the DT? Could the clown then catch ick from the QT? There
have been no signs of this since Jan. 25, 08 in the QT and I have never seen any
in the DT.
Greatly appreciate the advice,
Renee
<I would leave the Clown in place. NOT move, nor treat it per se. Bob Fenner>
Clownfish with Internal Parasites – 5/21/08
Hey Guys,
<Hello Adrian, Brenda here! >
Great site, excellent for beginners to learn from others mistakes. First and
foremost tank info and water analysis: 55 Gal. 2 inches of Crushed Coral 40 lbs.
live rock SG: 1.026 Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 10
<Work on getting nitrates down to zero. >
PH: 8.0 Temp: 80-84
<Work on getting temperature stable. I don’t recommend going above 82 degrees.
Perhaps a fan would help. >
Tank Inhabitants: 1 Torch Coral 2 Turbo Snails 2 Nassarius Snails 10 Small
Hermit Crabs.
<That’s a lot of crabs. Crabs can become predators. >
1 Purple Starfish 1 Coral Beauty 1 Striped Sailfin Tang 1 Yellow Tang
<Tangs need a much larger tank. >
2 Green Chromis Damsels 2 Clownfish (TR) Recently we added a small false Percula
clownfish to our established tank which contained a few other inhabitants; none
of which was a clown. He did well and never seemed to have any problems. Then
feeling he needed a friend we added another false Percula clown which was larger
(mistake).
<Yep! >
At first they seemed to get along with no problems, then suddenly the smaller
clown became lethargic and stayed in the bottom corner swimming minimally and
breathing heavily. I had noticed thin stringy feces from him and suspected
parasites, however the timing of the addition of the new clown seemed too
convenient. The other clown wasn’t aggressive towards him and actually came to
check on him frequently. We scrambled to try and solve this problem, but he
would not eat anything (Mysis, brine, formula one, flakes) and in a matter of
days he died. We were very sad to see him go and frustrated. After some time
with the new clown flourishing and doing well we decided to add another clown
again larger (mistake), but we wanted this clown in particular because he was
our new clowns original tank inhabitant from our LFS and we thought they'd fair
well together. Again, the fished seemed well together and I even noticed some
signs of pairing or acceptance (twitching, and side by side swimming). But,
again the smaller of the two clowns (the second one, not the new one) began
showing the same signs as the original clown. He will stay in the corner
breathing heavily all day, he wont move, or eat. Overall, he looks healthy maybe
a little dark, but overall good shape and appearance. He tends to stay in the
vicinity of a specific rock (which he does sleep in at night) though during the
day he is always in the corner. I also noticed white stringy feces from him this
morning.
<The white stringy feces is a sign of a internal parasite. >
Again the larger (or newest) clown will come and check on him and even defend
him and that area. The new clown appears fine, swimming around enjoying the
current and feeding normally. It feels like its deja vu and this is happening
all over again. Is this being caused by the fact that both times we introduced a
larger clown to a tank where a smaller clown was already established? Do you
think the stringy feces is coincidence maybe from stress or lack of feeding? Or
is it some mysterious parasite that attacks only small dominated clowns?
<Internal parasite. >
I'm at a loss, and my main concern at this point is trying to get my small clown
to eat before he perishes. Also I don’t know if his lack of appetite is caused
by this mysterious parasite, or some psychological reason perhaps from the
larger clowns dominance?
<It is caused by the internal parasite. >
It seems safe to say it's one of those reasons considering it did fine on its
own before the larger clown came into play. On a side note: I had suspected the
green Chromis damsels were bullying everybody (I originally had four), I removed
two to see if this would even the playing field or at least remove some
territorial issues from the tank. Much to my surprise shortly afterwards the
smaller clown began swimming with the larger clown and seemed as though he was
back to normal. But, by the end of the day he was back to his corner and has
remained there ever since. I don’t know if that's related and if removing the
damsels altogether would help (I had originally intended to take them out before
I inhabited the tank, as they were mainly for cycling, but they are difficult to
catch.) Again thanks so much for your help and sea of useful information. Adrian
S.
<This fish needs to be moved to quarantine immediately and treated. More
information found here for disease and treatment:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisfaq3.htm Brenda >
Sick clowns... yep you guessed it. 05/20/08
In treating Brooklynellosis I am confused as to what you suggest as a dose for
dips / baths.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/formalinart.htm
States: "For dips/baths 125-250 ppm (about 2.7 ml. of 100% soln.)((C1/C2= V1/V2
-- 100/37 = 1/X) and came up with 2.70mL of 37% stock Formalin solution per a
gallon of aerated/temp. adjusted salt water.)"
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm
Suggests: "Stock solutions of formalin (formaldehyde) are generally about 37%
composition, and can be used as dips/baths of one cc. per
gallon" So do you suggest 2.7 ML or 1 ML?? Thanks!!
<Mmm... actually (and I am hoping this is not continuingly unclear) either
one... Clowns are "more" sensitive to formalin... so, either dosage is "about"
right. Bob Fenner>
I have on-hand "Organi-Cure" which is copper and formalin. With poor labeling I
can not be sure of the concentration... I would guess 37% like most products
seem to have. You don't know the concentration, do you?
<I do not... I would not be surprised to find that this/it is about
full-strength... i.e with just copper (CuSO4 pentahydrate) added though... I
would NOT treat clowns, other fishes with (apparent) Brooklynellosis with copper
compounds... not of use, and may well just add to toxicity. BobF>
Thanks!!
Maroon clown fin discolored
05/19/08
Hello!,
<Greetings>
I got a new maroon clown fish about 10 days ago. When I bought him he had a
slight "thinning" of a small part of the dorsal fin and now it's changed
slightly (a bit bigger?) and there is a splotch in the middle.
<I see this>
See pics. Did a search but couldn't find anything similar on-line. I have him
alone in a quarantine tanks (10gal, no sand or rock, pvc tubes, hypo-saline at
23ppt,
<Mmm, I'd raise this to seawater strength>
ammonia was 0 but has gone up to almost . 2 for the last 3 days (doing water
changes to keep down); AquaClear 20 filter w/ sponge, charcoal + bio-filter
material from main tank; nitrites: just a hint, nitrates: 0, temp: 77, pH: 8.13
(adding a couple drops of B-Ionic Alk sup to keep up pH as it drops down to 8ish
by morning)). He's active and hungry! Isn't scared of me and comes to the
surface when I put my hand near tank, waiting for food. Feeding him on various
days: Cyclopeeze, Arctic-pods, Prime Reef flakes & mysis shrimps. Eats them all!
Is this dorsal fin thing anything to worry about? What's concerns me is that
it's changing, which may be good/healing or bad/deteriorating. Not sure.
Thanks in advance for your help!!
-john
ps- the web site is a great resource!
<Thank you John. By the looks of it, this is a wild-collected male Premnas... I
suspect the spot is resultant from an injury... and will heal of its own accord
in time. I would summarily (perhaps with an enroute dip/bath) place this
specimen in your main display... the likelihood of "bringing something in" with
it is much less than the stress/strain of its current circumstances and
isolation. Bob Fenner>
Re: maroon clown fin discolored 05/20/08
Thanks Bob! Yes, (s)he's a beauty!
Would that be a Formalin or Methylene Blue dip?
<Just the pH adjusted freshwater and MB>
I've read great things about Hyposaline conditions for fish only (not corals,
etc) especially against ich. I've also read your bit against it. Why don't you
like it or think it's effective?
<It has proven to not be of much use in most circumstances long(er) term>
I'll start raising the salinity, keep changing the water and get him in soon.
Probably not good to pop him into 35ppt without slow adjustment.
Thanks again,
-John
<Not usually a problem given the species, conditions presented, but best/better
to be cautious here (as usual). Cheers, BobF>
clownfish health/condition Qs 5/16/08
Hi crew, I have a Ocellaris clownfish and when I bought it, it was really hyper
and active but now about four weeks of owning it he began to slow down and now
about half of the day he is swimming in a small area in front of the tank.
<This is typical. Clownfish often settle into one small part of a tank.>
When I wake up in the morning and turn the light on about 6:30-7:00am his color
is really pale whitish, purple but then about ten minutes later he returns back
to normal,
<This is also normal.>
but lately the top half of his body is slightly darker than when bought. Also the
black line on his tail fin has slightly disappeared, but on his left fin the
black has disappeared all the way. He also has a very dim white dot behind his
second white line on both sides and a very dim, small white stripe from above
his eye to above his fin on both sides also. Any idea of what this could be and
if it is anything to worry about?
<Is this a small clown fish? Young fish often change color as they grow.>
Tank equipment:
55 gallon tank
4.5 gallon CPR refugium
maxi-jet 1200 powerhead
current nova extreme 48" 108 watt T5 high output light w/10,000k daylight T5HO
and 460NM actinic T5HO
18 pounds live rock
Livestock:
Fish: 2 Ocellaris clowns, 1 green Chromis, 2 Firefish gobies.
Inverts: 1 red sea star, 1 reef Haitian anemone, 2 turbo snails, 2 trochus
snails, 1 hitchhiker abalone.
<Best,
Sara M.>
Re:
clownfish health/condition Qs 5/17/08
yes he is a young fish. So the disappearing black line on his fin is also normal?
Thank you for your help!
<It's probably normal. But if you'd like to send in a pic just to be sure, I'd
be happy to take a look. -Sara M.>
Ocellaris Clown has freckles 05/15/08
Good Afternoon, Wet Web Crew!
<Hi, Jessica - Mike I here with you today>
First, I must say "Thank You" for your site! The archives and information you
have provided has been beneficial to us and our tank (and the inhabitants in our
tank) for several years.
<Very glad to hear it, and thanks or the thanks!>
We recently purchased a pair of Ocellaris Clowns. They are eating well and VERY
active. I am enjoying their antics!!
<Excellent stuff!>
My question is about the large black "freckles" that they now have. I have
attached a picture for your diagnosis. I do not think it is 'ich' and I read
somewhere on the net that perhaps the"zoas" are stinging them.
<Could be.....?
I must apologize for the blurriness of the picture - but she won't stay still!
:)
<Did you ask politely though?...>
I want them to be happy in their new home and want to make sure that I am doing
my best to be a good hostess. Any and all information would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you kindly for taking the time to answer my question.
Warm Regards,
Jessica
<Well, Jessica, as the picture is a little blurred, you'll have to accept this
information with a proviso on it, so here goes.... Providing you are not seeing
any behaviour normally related to illness (scratching, flicking, loss of
appetite, loss of weight, rapid breathing etc) from that picture is appears to
be something that happens fairly frequently. There are a couple of things that
can cause it. First, is as you say, a hyper-melanism (increased black pigments)
caused by certain hosting relationships - zoas and mushrooms being a common
trigger, as do some anemones. In other cases it is caused by the larvae of a
fluke - the black markings are the fish walling off the parasite. That last one
a bit concerning, but let me assure you that you shouldn't worry - if it is
indeed the latter, the parasite needs a further host (not found in the marine
aquarium) to complete it's life-cycle, and therefore the problem usually goes
away on it's own as the parasite it either rejected or ceases to be. It doe snot
appear to have a great affect on the animals. I hope that helps - again, don't
worry too much if you're not seeing other symptoms. Enjoy your clowns! Mike I>
|
 |
| |
|