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FAQs about the Diseases of Clownfishes 20
Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1,
Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases
of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease
4, Clownfish Disease 5,
Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish
Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8,
Clownfish Disease 9, Clownfish
Disease 10, Clownfish Disease 11,
Clownfish Disease 12, Clownfish
Disease 13, Clownfish Disease 14,
Clownfish Disease 15, Clownfish
Disease 16, Clownfish Disease 17,
Clownfish Disease 18, Clownfish
Disease 19, Clownfish Disease 21,
Clownfish Disease 22,Clownfish
Disease 23, & FAQs on Clownfish Disease By:
Environmental Stress, Nutrition,
Social/Behavioral/Territoriality,
Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens:
Lymphocystis, Infectious Disease
(Bacteria, Fungi...), Protozoans:
Cryptocaryon/Ich, Amyloodinium/Velvet,
Brooklynella (see article below), &
Mysteries/Anomalous Losses, Cure,
Success Stories, & Clownfishes in General,
Clownfish Identification, Clownfish
Selection, Clownfish Compatibility,
Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems,
Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes and
Anemones, Breeding
Clowns, Related Articles:
Clownfish Disease, Clownfishes,
Maroon Clowns, Marine Disease, Brooklynellosis, |  |
Sick Clownfish 7/6/08 Please help! We have a saltwater tank
that has been running over 2 months now and is successful with
hermit crabs, turbo snails and cleaner shrimp. We have introduced
clownfish and our first 3 have died and it appears our 4th one is
going too. <!?> We have a 45 gallon tank and all our levels
are in spec per our testing kit. The last 2 clownfish that died
started by having breathing trouble (rapid/gasping) and the last one
developed a black splotch above his left eye which grew bigger and
he eventually died. This last fish seemed perfectly healthy and has
been doing fine, but started gasping a few days ago and has now
developed the same blackish splotch above his left eye. We have been
oxygenating the water every week. We don't want to lose any more
fish. Can you please help us determine what's wrong with him?
<Mmm, yes... assuredly. This will take a bit of reading on your
part. Some going back and forth twixt ourselves... But we can/will
solve> We also have chromis and a watcher goby that seem to be
fine. Another clownfish is also in the tank and doesn't seem to
exhibit any of these issues, but neither did this sick one, until
now. Thanks, Diana <"Something" is amiss here... perhaps
chemical (though the invert.s living is testimony in many ways
otherwise...), or biological/pathogenic. Are these Clownfish
wild-caught? Or, tank bred and reared? Please ask your dealer re...
and begin perusing here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/part2.htm The last tray at
the bottom. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick Clownfish
7/7/08 Thanks
for your response. My husband has said that these have been
wild-caught Clownfish as per the store. <A poor choice... as
you're learning> We got them at a reputable dealer called Big
Al's here in Toronto. I have attached 2 pictures (the best I could
get of the little guy as he tends to stay there and not really
move). The splotch is over his left eye and slowly grows bigger. On
the last one that had a similar splotch, it grew over the whole left
side of his head while he had more and more trouble breathing
(bigger gasping/labouring). I have read a lot on your site, but
nothing seems to match the issues we are experiencing. <Au
contraire! Likely this is Brooklynellosis and gill flukes... too
common...> It almost appears to be some sort of hemorrhaging. Any
additional help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Losing
these little guys is breaking my heart and we can't figure out why!
<Read on. BobF> | 
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Urgent very worried about clowns, need data 6/30/08 Sorry to
email you again but I'm desperately worried about my two false Percs.
This morning they are shooting round the tank, swimming mostly at the
surface and one is pale (they're black/white colour morphs). I tested
ammonia etc last night and all came back fine (ammonia and nitrite 0,
nitrate <5ppm, dKH 12.5-12.8). <There is more to water quality,
habitat suitability than these for sure> I've done an emergency water
change <Good> (they are in a 70l nano with moonlights on for a few
hours morning and evening) and have changed approx. 5% of the water,
they seem to be a little less stressed but I'm really worried what has
caused this and what I must do now to help them. <Me too> Any
help and advice you can give would be great, I've had these little guys
for a few months with no problems and I can't bear to lose them.
Carolyn <... need to know more re the system, history, maint., other
livestock to begin guessing here... Bob Fenner>
Re: urgent very worried about clowns 6/30/08 HI Bob,
<Carolyn> Many thanks for the reply. The system is a 70l nano running
a skimmer (on all the time) and 20x total tank volume circulated every
hour. The tank's occupants are the two clowns, a mandarin, one skunk
cleaner shrimp and assorted sort corals and Zoas (all frags). The system
has been running since new year 2008, first livestock added after 8
weeks cycling (no detectable ammonia or nitrite for 3 weeks prior to
adding any livestock). I do a 5% water change every 4 days making
sure the water is temp/pH matched to the tank water before adding,
ammonia nitrite and nitrate are measured every 3 days (am aware this is
still a young system), calcium and magnesium are checked weekly. The
only addition I use is the Salifert all in one and only then when
calcium/dKH or magnesium need replenishing. Prior to today the clowns
have had T5 lights on from 10am to 8pm, moonlights going on at 8pm-12am,
then again 8-10am, however this morning my partner turned them on
manually at 5.30am (!) - could this shock have upset them? <Mmm, a
bit... if it was otherwise very dark outside their system> The only
other factor I can think may be involved is that I've noticed an algae
bloom on the glass which returns almost as soon as its cleaned away and
spots of Cyanobacteria appearing which we haven't seen since the tank
cycled. <This, these can definitely be problematic... toxic> Not
sure if this is the cause or simply a symptom of the problem, however
the T5's are due to be replaced so am doing that today. Sorry for the
long message - we're currently in the process of moving house so the
clowns will be moved to their new permanent home (a 110 gallon system)
in the next couple of weeks but I want to sort this before the move for
obvious reasons. Many many thanks, Carolyn <Let's hope all
settles in/down. Bob Fenner> |
Sick Baby Clown, reading 6/25/08 I brought two baby clowns
(false Perculas) three days ago. Each are about 4 weeks to 6 weeks old.
<? Very young> Unfortunately, when I brought them home and started
acclimating them to quarantine I noticed the bigger one had something
weird covering its tail. Like some sort of white slime. The tip of the
tail was split into little strands. His body is darker than the other
clown fish and has a dark spot around the head. As for behavior, he
stays pretty much in a corner in the tank near the ground. <Bad
signs> Never goes away from the ground. He seems as if he was eating
from the ground but he is not (at least not to my knowledge.) This makes
feeding him a lot harder. What could be wrong with him and what kind of
medication can I give him? Any particular foods that baby clowns will
eat? <Live baby brine at this size... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/part2.htm toward the bottom...
Bob Fenner> White
stringy feces. Clown dis., Flagyl use 6/25/08 I got another
question for the experts. <Got? Experts?> I have a 75 gallon
FOWLR with the following livestock: yellow tang, asfur angel, <Needs
MUCH more room than this> blue flasher wrasse, 2 clownfish, and some
snails. The clownfish has recently shown to have white stringy feces.
<Mmm, how long have you had this fish? Was it wild-collected (vs.
captive produced)?> I have tried Prazi-pro but it has not resolved
the issue. It is safe to use Metronidazole soaked foods or a product
like Jungle's Anti-Parasite Medicated Fish Food in the main tank?
<Mmm, yes... safe enough IMO. Please read re this symptom in
Clownfishes, the use of Metronidazole on WWM for further input,
cautionary remarks. Bob Fenner> thanks, L
Black Spots on Clown Diagnosis – 06/02/08 Good
Morning/Afternoon/Evening, <And to you> I have a False Perc in
a 29G All-In-One. He¹s been hanging out for over a year and a half
and has had excellent health. He is the only fish inhabitant. He
took a liking to the Candy Cane LPS I put in around a year ago and
generally sleeps between one of the heads and the rock every night
along with just buzzing around the tank most of the day and
occasionally, rubbing the CC. He really enjoys swimming in the jet
of the powerhead. His diet consists of mysis and Formula-2 flake
food. I give him mysis twice a week and Forumla-2 twice a week. I
have attached a picture of some black ³dirt² spots that have shown
up more recently. I always remember him having some small spots but
they seem to have gotten more numerous. I cannot find any exact
match of the spots on any search other than it could be ³Black Ich²
<Mmm, no> but he doesn¹t really display any of the symptoms (he
has been and continues to be perfectly normal). Should I attempt to
follow any treatment for him at this point or continue on unless he
starts showing any other symptoms? Other tank inhabitants are
various Corallimorphs, GSP, some hermits, a fighting conch (yeah I
know but he sure is cool to watch), and various snails, and a sand
flea (filter feeder under the sand, very fascinating). <Neat!>
Water is changed 20% every 10 days with distilled water and Oceanic
sand. I run carbon and Phosban to assist the biological filtration.
I attached a pic but I don¹t believe it is of much use. They are
very tiny spots. Thanks Chris <I don't think these markings
are anything to really worry re... they're very likely melanophores
(color cells) showing/expressing from contact with the stony coral.
I do want to mention that if it were mine, I'd add another
Percula... Bob Fenner>
Re: Black Spots on Clown Diagnosis
– 06/02/08 Thank you for answering my question and the format
in which you provide knowledge to everyone. It is a great service
for all who want to learn versus being told. We all have a
fiduciary responsibility to all that we keep. Chris <Ah,
welcome Chris. We are in agreement. Cheers, BobF> | 
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Bad beginnings.., Sick Clowns 5/24/08 Hello, <Hi> I
have a QT tank running with two juvenile false Percula fish. The bigger
one of the two was just added about three days ago to the QT tank and
the little one has been for about 5 days. I was having a little trouble
feeding the little one when I first brought since it only took small
bites that I brought live brine shrimp and began feeding them this food.
The second day the bigger one was swimming abnormally. Like a little
titled to the side staying near the ground and sometimes even putting
his head down tail up. Seeing how this was right after I feed them live
brine shrimp I thought that it was a swimming bladder problem. <Odd
swim patterns are pretty common with clownfish, and are normal.> Than
today he has stayed the entire day with the little one in a front corner
of the tank laying on the ground. I feed them food and they will not get
out of the corner. So, I got my net and tried moving them out of the
corner and only the little one stayed away while the big one returned.
<Not a good sign.> I have no idea what is wrong with him besides
that bladder problem. I was thinking maybe since all the quarantine tank
had to hide was two pieces of pipes that together that maybe they stayed
their because of stress or to protect each other. By the way, water
parameters are normal. <Numbers please, most likely these symptoms
are environmental in nature.> Please give me some advice. I really
don't want the big one to die. He was the replacement of another
juvenile smaller false Percula that was sick before I brought him in the
tank and died before I could find out what he had. These were my first
fish after 6 months of research and cycling and to have them die on me
is really having me having think twice about everything that I have done
so far. Thank you for giving me your time. <Are these wild
caught clowns? In so check out the article on Brooklynella, but
otherwise I would bet on poor water quality here. Try daily water
changes for a few days and see if their condition continue. Also check
out here to see if it helps diagnose the problem.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm .> <Chris>
Clownfish, fin rot 05/23/08 I have a dilemma with my maroon
clownfish. He is wild caught, but I have had him since Sept. 07. My tank
went down hill due to a pump malfunction, by the time I figured out the
issue, my clown had slimy white coating on his fins, and cloudy eyes. I
have corrected everything, and all is well except for him. I have been
doing wc, many. I was hoping to clear this up without medicine. This has
been going on now for about 2 weeks, I thought he looked better, but now
one fin has the white slime back and the patch is close to his body
where it attaches. I have a QT tank but it is housing a purple tang, who
is definitely ready to go in the DT, but will he catch this? <No.
It's environmental... not pathogenic> He battled ick in the QT back
in Jan. and has recovered with flying colors with hypo salinity
approach. What can I treat the maroon with ( I have furan2 on
hand), and where. I would like to do baths and put him back in DT, I am
afraid he would freak and die for sure without his anemone. Will this
medicine some how remain on him and kill the anemone? OR should I switch
him to the QT and put the tang in the DT? Could the clown then catch ick
from the QT? There have been no signs of this since Jan. 25, 08 in the
QT and I have never seen any in the DT. Greatly appreciate the
advice, Renee <I would leave the Clown in place. NOT move, nor
treat it per se. Bob Fenner>
Clownfish with Internal Parasites – 5/21/08 Hey Guys,
<Hello Adrian, Brenda here! > Great site, excellent for beginners to
learn from others mistakes. First and foremost tank info and water
analysis: 55 Gal. 2 inches of Crushed Coral 40 lbs. live rock SG: 1.026
Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 10 <Work on getting nitrates down to
zero. > PH: 8.0 Temp: 80-84 <Work on getting temperature stable. I
don’t recommend going above 82 degrees. Perhaps a fan would help. >
Tank Inhabitants: 1 Torch Coral 2 Turbo Snails 2 Nassarius Snails 10
Small Hermit Crabs. <That’s a lot of crabs. Crabs can become
predators. > 1 Purple Starfish 1 Coral Beauty 1 Striped Sailfin Tang
1 Yellow Tang <Tangs need a much larger tank. > 2 Green Chromis
Damsels 2 Clownfish (TR) Recently we added a small false Percula
clownfish to our established tank which contained a few other
inhabitants; none of which was a clown. He did well and never seemed to
have any problems. Then feeling he needed a friend we added another
false Percula clown which was larger (mistake). <Yep! > At first
they seemed to get along with no problems, then suddenly the smaller
clown became lethargic and stayed in the bottom corner swimming
minimally and breathing heavily. I had noticed thin stringy feces from
him and suspected parasites, however the timing of the addition of the
new clown seemed too convenient. The other clown wasn’t aggressive
towards him and actually came to check on him frequently. We scrambled
to try and solve this problem, but he would not eat anything (Mysis,
brine, formula one, flakes) and in a matter of days he died. We were
very sad to see him go and frustrated. After some time with the new
clown flourishing and doing well we decided to add another clown again
larger (mistake), but we wanted this clown in particular because he was
our new clowns original tank inhabitant from our LFS and we thought
they'd fair well together. Again, the fished seemed well together and I
even noticed some signs of pairing or acceptance (twitching, and side by
side swimming). But, again the smaller of the two clowns (the second
one, not the new one) began showing the same signs as the original
clown. He will stay in the corner breathing heavily all day, he wont
move, or eat. Overall, he looks healthy maybe a little dark, but overall
good shape and appearance. He tends to stay in the vicinity of a
specific rock (which he does sleep in at night) though during the day he
is always in the corner. I also noticed white stringy feces from him
this morning. <The white stringy feces is a sign of a internal
parasite. > Again the larger (or newest) clown will come and check on
him and even defend him and that area. The new clown appears fine,
swimming around enjoying the current and feeding normally. It feels like
its deja vu and this is happening all over again. Is this being caused
by the fact that both times we introduced a larger clown to a tank where
a smaller clown was already established? Do you think the stringy feces
is coincidence maybe from stress or lack of feeding? Or is it some
mysterious parasite that attacks only small dominated clowns?
<Internal parasite. > I'm at a loss, and my main concern at this
point is trying to get my small clown to eat before he perishes. Also I
don’t know if his lack of appetite is caused by this mysterious
parasite, or some psychological reason perhaps from the larger clowns
dominance? <It is caused by the internal parasite. > It seems safe
to say it's one of those reasons considering it did fine on its own
before the larger clown came into play. On a side note: I had suspected
the green Chromis damsels were bullying everybody (I originally had
four), I removed two to see if this would even the playing field or at
least remove some territorial issues from the tank. Much to my surprise
shortly afterwards the smaller clown began swimming with the larger
clown and seemed as though he was back to normal. But, by the end of the
day he was back to his corner and has remained there ever since. I don’t
know if that's related and if removing the damsels altogether would help
(I had originally intended to take them out before I inhabited the tank,
as they were mainly for cycling, but they are difficult to catch.) Again
thanks so much for your help and sea of useful information. Adrian S.
<This fish needs to be moved to quarantine immediately and treated. More
information found here for disease and treatment:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisfaq3.htm Brenda >
Sick clowns... yep you guessed it. 05/20/08 In
treating Brooklynellosis I am confused as to what you suggest as a dose
for dips / baths. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/formalinart.htm
States: "For dips/baths 125-250 ppm (about 2.7 ml. of 100%
soln.)((C1/C2= V1/V2 -- 100/37 = 1/X) and came up with 2.70mL of 37%
stock Formalin solution per a gallon of aerated/temp. adjusted salt
water.)" http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm
Suggests: "Stock solutions of formalin (formaldehyde) are generally
about 37% composition, and can be used as dips/baths of one cc. per
gallon" So do you suggest 2.7 ML or 1 ML?? Thanks!! <Mmm... actually
(and I am hoping this is not continuingly unclear) either one... Clowns
are "more" sensitive to formalin... so, either dosage is "about" right.
Bob Fenner> I have on-hand "Organi-Cure" which is copper and
formalin. With poor labeling I can not be sure of the concentration... I
would guess 37% like most products seem to have. You don't know the
concentration, do you? <I do not... I would not be surprised to find
that this/it is about full-strength... i.e with just copper (CuSO4
pentahydrate) added though... I would NOT treat clowns, other fishes
with (apparent) Brooklynellosis with copper compounds... not of use, and
may well just add to toxicity. BobF> Thanks!!
Maroon clown fin discolored
05/19/08 Hello!, <Greetings> I
got a new maroon clown fish about 10 days ago. When I bought him he had
a slight "thinning" of a small part of the dorsal fin and now it's
changed slightly (a bit bigger?) and there is a splotch in the middle.
<I see this> See pics. Did a search but couldn't find anything
similar on-line. I have him alone in a quarantine tanks (10gal, no sand
or rock, pvc tubes, hypo-saline at 23ppt, <Mmm, I'd raise this to
seawater strength> ammonia was 0 but has gone up to almost . 2 for
the last 3 days (doing water changes to keep down); AquaClear 20 filter
w/ sponge, charcoal + bio-filter material from main tank; nitrites: just
a hint, nitrates: 0, temp: 77, pH: 8.13 (adding a couple drops of
B-Ionic Alk sup to keep up pH as it drops down to 8ish by morning)).
He's active and hungry! Isn't scared of me and comes to the surface when
I put my hand near tank, waiting for food. Feeding him on various days:
Cyclopeeze, Arctic-pods, Prime Reef flakes & mysis shrimps. Eats them
all! Is this dorsal fin thing anything to worry about? What's concerns
me is that it's changing, which may be good/healing or
bad/deteriorating. Not sure. Thanks in advance for your help!!
-john ps- the web site is a great resource! <Thank you John. By
the looks of it, this is a wild-collected male Premnas... I suspect the
spot is resultant from an injury... and will heal of its own accord in
time. I would summarily (perhaps with an enroute dip/bath) place this
specimen in your main display... the likelihood of "bringing something
in" with it is much less than the stress/strain of its current
circumstances and isolation. Bob Fenner>
Re: maroon clown fin discolored 05/20/08 Thanks Bob! Yes,
(s)he's a beauty! Would that be a Formalin or Methylene Blue dip?
<Just the pH adjusted freshwater and MB> I've read great things about
Hyposaline conditions for fish only (not corals, etc) especially against
ich. I've also read your bit against it. Why don't you like it or think
it's effective? <It has proven to not be of much use in most
circumstances long(er) term> I'll start raising the salinity, keep
changing the water and get him in soon. Probably not good to pop him
into 35ppt without slow adjustment. Thanks again, -John <Not
usually a problem given the species, conditions presented, but
best/better to be cautious here (as usual). Cheers, BobF>
clownfish health/condition Qs 5/16/08 Hi crew, I have a
Ocellaris clownfish and when I bought it, it was really hyper and active
but now about four weeks of owning it he began to slow down and now
about half of the day he is swimming in a small area in front of the
tank. <This is typical. Clownfish often settle into one small part of
a tank.> When I wake up in the morning and turn the light on about
6:30-7:00am his color is really pale whitish, purple but then about ten
minutes later he returns back to normal, <This is also normal.>
but lately the top half of his body is slightly darker than when bought.
Also the black line on his tail fin has slightly disappeared, but on his
left fin the black has disappeared all the way. He also has a very dim
white dot behind his second white line on both sides and a very dim,
small white stripe from above his eye to above his fin on both sides
also. Any idea of what this could be and if it is anything to worry
about? <Is this a small clown fish? Young fish often change color as
they grow.> Tank equipment: 55 gallon tank 4.5 gallon CPR
refugium maxi-jet 1200 powerhead current nova extreme 48" 108 watt
T5 high output light w/10,000k daylight T5HO and 460NM actinic T5HO
18 pounds live rock Livestock: Fish: 2 Ocellaris clowns, 1 green
Chromis, 2 Firefish gobies. Inverts: 1 red sea star, 1 reef Haitian
anemone, 2 turbo snails, 2 trochus snails, 1 hitchhiker abalone.
<Best, Sara M.> Re:
clownfish health/condition Qs
5/17/08 yes he is a young fish. So the disappearing
black line on his fin is also normal? Thank you for your help! <It's
probably normal. But if you'd like to send in a pic just to be sure, I'd
be happy to take a look. -Sara M.>
Ocellaris Clown has freckles 05/15/08 Good Afternoon,
Wet Web Crew! <Hi, Jessica - Mike I here with you today>
First, I must say "Thank You" for your site! The archives and
information you have provided has been beneficial to us and our tank
(and the inhabitants in our tank) for several years. <Very glad
to hear it, and thanks or the thanks!> We recently purchased a
pair of Ocellaris Clowns. They are eating well and VERY active. I am
enjoying their antics!! <Excellent stuff!> My question is
about the large black "freckles" that they now have. I have attached
a picture for your diagnosis. I do not think it is 'ich' and I read
somewhere on the net that perhaps the"zoas" are stinging them.
<Could be.....? I must apologize for the blurriness of the
picture - but she won't stay still! :) <Did you ask politely
though?...> I want them to be happy in their new home and want to
make sure that I am doing my best to be a good hostess. Any and all
information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you kindly for
taking the time to answer my question. Warm Regards, Jessica
<Well, Jessica, as the picture is a little blurred, you'll have to
accept this information with a proviso on it, so here goes....
Providing you are not seeing any behaviour normally related to
illness (scratching, flicking, loss of appetite, loss of weight,
rapid breathing etc) from that picture is appears to be something
that happens fairly frequently. There are a couple of things that
can cause it. First, is as you say, a hyper-melanism (increased
black pigments) caused by certain hosting relationships - zoas and
mushrooms being a common trigger, as do some anemones. In other
cases it is caused by the larvae of a fluke - the black markings are
the fish walling off the parasite. That last one a bit concerning,
but let me assure you that you shouldn't worry - if it is indeed the
latter, the parasite needs a further host (not found in the marine
aquarium) to complete it's life-cycle, and therefore the problem
usually goes away on it's own as the parasite it either rejected or
ceases to be. It doe snot appear to have a great affect on the
animals. I hope that helps - again, don't worry too much if you're
not seeing other symptoms. Enjoy your clowns! Mike I> |
 |
Growths on clowns 5/4/08 Hey guys, <Albert>
Long time reader - first time writer. These pages are actually what gave
me the confidence to move from freshwater to saltwater. Thank you all so
much for what you do. <Welcome> Now a little background: 110
gallon display with 120 #s live rock and 1" live sand, 20 gallon sump
with EuroReef skimmer, 20 gallon fuge with ~6" live sand. Total flow is
around 2000 gallons/hour. 6 40watt NO tubes on the display, 1 60watt CF
on fuge with a 12/12 lighting period. I have a half-dozen hermits, about
50 assorted snails and two tank-raised percula clowns in the display. In
the fuge is Caulerpa <Mmm, I'd move this out (freeze, toss it) or at
least keep it trimmed down to an absolute minimum> and another
handful of red macro that I grabbed from the LFS without identifying.
SG:1.025, PH:8.2, Ammonia, Trites, Trates: 0. The larger of the two
clowns has a growth on its anal fin that it has had since I brought it
home from the LFS a month ago (I know, I know - I just missed it). It
looks like a very small cluster of 3-4 white bumps. After reading
through these pages, my best guess was lymph so I decided to do nothing.
<Is what I would do as well> Since I brought the fish home, they have
been eating like pigs and seem to enjoy their new home. The white
cluster has not grown so I thought everything would be OK. About a week
ago, I noticed a white pimple on the gill of the other smaller clown. At
first I thought it might be the same thing that the larger clown has,
but it didn't cluster and just started to grow larger. I decided that I
should try to do something. I gave them both a freshwater dip (just
temperature adjusted RODI water and baking soda) for about 5 minutes
each. They both seemed to deal with the treatment well. I saw no change
in the larger clown. The cluster remained. The pimple on the smaller
clown separated from the gill and hung, but I could not get it all the
way off. After a day back in the display tank, the pimple on the smaller
clown reattached although it was smaller. A day later, I decided to try
the same treatment again on the smaller pimpled clown. The same thing
happened, the pimple separated but it would not come completely off. I
even stuck my hand in the dip dish to try and physically remove it. The
fish and the pimple are both so small, I was unsuccessful. The pimple
has reattached for a second time. The fish have gone from completely
calm and happy to mildly frantic. The larger clown is beginning to
settle but the smaller one that I dipped twice is racing around the
tank. Neither of them are eating as much as before. I seemed to have
stressed them out. I feel like I have done more bad than good. Can
you help to identify their conditions and recommend a course of action?
Thanks, Al Conti <Not able to determine what the material may be
from the description... could be protozoan, other pathogen... But I
would try a purposeful cleaner... likely a Lysmata sp. shrimp or two
here. Bob Fenner>
Fin problem, Clown, no data of use, "Fix", reading – 5/3/08
I bought a clown fish recently, actually today is the fourth day we
have had him, and he has a large white growth no one of his fins. He
also has a smaller white spot on his other fin. I am attaching a
picture I don't know if this will help to know what I am talking
about. I'm not sure what the growth is and I'm not sure if you can
help me diagnose it. I bought Melafix, which is an antibacterial
medicine, <... see WWM re... is a placebo at best> today and
added that to the tank <An exceedingly poor idea. Learn to/use
the search tool on WWM re> hoping that it might help. Any
suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. <Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner< | 
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Clownfish - possible fungus, Lined Wrasse comp. 5/1/08
Hello! I have a fairly new 29 gal FOWLR tank (4 weeks). Water
parameters are great. I incorporated a small Ocellaris clown initially,
then two weeks later a 6 line wrasse. I noticed almost immediately after
I got the clownfish some white spots on his fin. Could have been there
when I got him but it was hardly noticeable. Originally I thought it was
a stress-induced secondary infection, or perhaps that he had been picked
on in the LFS tank. Upon closer inspection, the bottom of the fin is
feathered and ragged and there are some white, almost fuzzy areas. There
has been little change over the past 4 weeks but it definitely isn't
going away... maybe getting a tad worse. The fish seems totally healthy
otherwise, eats, swims, sleeps normally and is energetic. I wondered if
the wrasse was harassing it <Could well be... in such a small
volume... this species can be a terror> however I have never noticed
that type of behavior. I thought of treating with some MelaFix
<Worse than worthless... may well upset the cycling of the system, alter
pH... of no medicine value> but I am afraid of harming my beneficial
bacterial. <You are wise here> Any suggestions? <Patience,
observation... possibly the removal of the Wrasse. Bob Fenner>
Melissa L. Hetzer
Sick Clownfish: 4-28-08 Hello, I am in need of some
advice. <Allright.> I have a 20 gallon fish only tank containing
only a pair of clown fish. When I first brought these fish home they
behaved normally for about a week. Then the larger one (the female I
assume) stopped eating, was breathing rapidly and would occasionally lie
on the bottom of the tank. Even though there were no other symptoms I
guessed that it was either ich or velvet and I had caught it early.
<Ich or velvet would produce other symptoms like increased mucus or
white specks along the body. If these were not present I doubt it was
either of the two.> I did not plan on ever having any coral or other
reef creatures so I decided to treat the whole display tank with
CopperSafe according to the instructions. After another two weeks went
by, the larger clown was doing very well. It stopped the rapid breathing
and started eating normally. (The smaller clown always looked and
behaved normally, and that never changed) It has been about a month
since the start of the copper treatment and the large clown has had a
large appetite and is relatively active. <Have you done any water
changes since then? Let me stress that treating in the main display is
never recommended. As you subjected the other healthy clown to
medication that it did not need. That can cause adverse side effects in
the long run. Always medicate in a quarantine tank. > But three
things still bother me. First, when the large clown first became sick,
it lost its color. The color never returned to normal. It is pale
compared to the smaller clown. <Pale color can be a lack of nutrition
and poor water quality. What kind of foods are you feeding?> Second,
the large fish will still sometimes lie on the bottom of the tank
(especially at night), but immediately wakes up when anyone goes near
the tank. <This may be it’s sleeping spot. Are you providing any
shelters for it? Ie: rocks, pipes. Also are the male and female sleeping
together or separately?> Third, recently very, very faint spots have
appeared on the body of the fish. There are three of these spots and
they are faint enough that they can only be seen in the right lighting.
I have been watching these spots for about a week now and they have not
changed. <Raised spots? Let me ask this…Do you notice any aggression
between the two fish? Were they bought as a mated pair? Perhaps these
can be injuries from fighting.> My question is, should I continue
copper treatment until the large fish behaves and looks completely
normal? Or is the odd behavior and spots caused by something else like a
fungus or bacteria that copper cannot treat? I have been testing the
water quality constantly during the whole process. The ammonia/nitrites
both have been zero, and the nitrates have been very low <0.5 ppm.
<I would stop the copper as soon as possible and do a good water change
on the tank. I think that pristine water and a good nutritional menu
will help the clown get back on the right track.> Another quick
question I just thought of. The pair of clownfish will "vibrate" at one
another. Is this normal behavior for a clown fish? <Yes, it is not
too abnormal. When this occurs, do you witness any submissiveness from
either of the two? Is this a mated pair?> Thanks for your help.
<Not a problem. –Yunachin> -Ethan
Sick Clownfish? 04/28/2008 Hello, I am in need of some advice.
<<Hello, Andrew today>> I have a 20 gallon fish only tank containing
only a pair of clown fish. When I first brought these fish home they
behaved normally for about a week. Then the larger one (the female I
assume) stopped eating, was breathing rapidly and would occasionally lay
on the bottom of the tank. Even though there were no other symptoms I
guessed that it was either ich or velvet and I had caught it early. I
did not plan on ever having any coral or other reef creatures so I
decided to treat the whole display tank with CopperSafe according to the
instructions. <<Ok>> After another two weeks went by, the larger
clown was doing very well. It stopped the rapid breathing and started
eating normally. (The smaller clown always looked and behaved normally,
and that never changed). It has been about a month since the start of
the copper treatment and the large clown has had a large appetite and is
relatively active. But three things still bother me. First, when the
large clown first became sick, it lost its color. The color never
returned to normal. It is pale compared to the smaller clown.
<<Should return in time given a staple diet>> Second, the large fish
will still sometimes lay on the bottom of the tank (especially at
night), but immediately wakes up when anyone goes near the tank.
<<Quite normal, most clowns will act "odd" sometimes>> Third,
recently very, very faint spots have appeared on the body of the fish.
There are three of these spots and they are faint enough that they can
only be seen in the right lighting. I have been watching these spots for
about a week now and they have not changed. My question is, should I
continue copper treatment until the large fish behaves and looks
completely normal? <<Could be either really. try taking a look at
the following page including linked articles and FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm >> Or is the odd behavior
and spots caused by something else like a fungus or bacteria that copper
can not treat? I have been testing the water quality constantly during
the whole process. The ammonia/nitrites both have been zero, and the
nitrates have been very low <0.5 ppm. <<Do please read the above
linked article to pin point your clown fish "spots". >> Another quick
question I just thought of. The pair of clownfish will "vibrate" at one
another. Is this normal behavior for a clown fish? Thanks for your help.
-Ethan <<Yes, very normal indeed>> <<Thanks for the questions
Ethan, hope this helps. A Nixon>.
Urgently need help - unidentified clown fish problem. Env. 4/7/08
Hi Guys, <Carolyn> Really need your help - my 70l (18 gallon)
tank has been set up since February 2008 with live rock, and has
been fully cycled for 5 weeks. Current readings are ammonia 0ppm,
nitrite 0ppm, nitrate 3ppm.Temp is 25-26 Celsius (77-78.8F), SG is
1.024. The tank is a mixed system with a clean up crew (hermits,
snails, one skunk cleaner shrimp), zoas, 1x Duncan coral, 1x
branching hammer coral, <... all this disparate Cnidarian life
cannot be introduced into such a small volume this quickly...> 1x
pussy coral, 1x Sinularia and some mushies. <...> Fish-wise,
we added our first fish, a Randall's Shrimp Goby 4 weeks ago and he
is absolutely fine, is a tad timid (he lives in the live rock and
comes out to feed). Addition number 2 was a coral beauty, she's also
fine and was added 3 weeks ago. The readings were monitored daily
to ensure all was fine, all readings were 0 (nitrate only gone up
this week). We then added two small (about 1") ocellaris clowns,
from a different LFS as they were the only ones we could find that
were tank bred. They'd been in the shop, in quarantine for 3 weeks,
before being put on sale. Both looked fine, but there was a larger
clown looking a bit ropey <Ropey? Am not familiar with this term>
(I know, at that point I should've walked away). We acclimatised
the fish as before, dripping tank water into the bag over 1.5hrs
once the water temp had reached that of the tank. <Mmm, better by
far to isolate/quarantine for a few weeks> Both fish immediately
chose the branching hammer coral as "home"! <Not atypical... and
not likely tank-bred...> They were fine until 3 days later, when
we noticed a coating of mucus on both fish but on one side only -
mostly on their dorsal fins, which weren't held up as normal, their
flanks and some on their faces. One was more badly affected than the
other, so I did some reading and researching, coming to the
conclusion it could be either Brooklynella or that they were being
stung by the coral. <Much more likely the influence of the
latter> As we had no formalin we did an emergency freshwater bath
on both clowns, for 20mins. Both were fine and were clear of mucus
for another 3 days, then the mucus was back but worse, one of the
clowns looked like its gills might be ragged/inflamed, hard to tell
as he was swimming round and seemed to be more agitated than normal.
Both were eating fine. We did a second FW bath, 20mins, however
the fish seemed a lot more stressed this time - on returning them to
the tank both flopped to the bottom, breathing rapidly and looking
very unsteady. After about 30mins the least poorly fish was swimming
round (albeit a bit wobbly still), but the second was gasping and
not swimming. Another 30mins passed and the first fish was now ok,
but the second one was dead. Having asked yet more questions of
LFS's, the web and forums, I'm wondering if this could be velvet?
<Mmm, no> The remaining clown is in QT again, raised the temp to
27-28 Celsius (80-82.4 F) and dropped SG to 1.019. She's looking
better this morning and is easting and swimming fine. Both remaining
fish in the main tank look fine, no symptoms at all (although
catching the goby would be impossible, am considering a FW bath for
the coral beauty as a precaution?). <... I would not and a
Centropyge (bispinosus or otherwise) cannot live/well in such a
small volume> If you think it is velvet, will copper treatment in
QT help, or is it enough to use hyposalinity and raised temp?
<... This issue is very likely almost to entirely environmental...
the stinging-celled life...> Next..! We want to add a new clown,
<Mmm, no> however don't know when's best. One suggestion is to
add him to the QT with the other, treat both with copper to
eradicate an ich/velvet etc, then do a formalin dip on both
immediately prior to adding to the main tank, although this seems
very stressful for them? Alternative is to keep fish 1 in QT for 2-3
weeks, treat with copper, then add her back to the display tank (how
do you make sure no copper is inadvertently added to the main
tank?!), adding fish 2 to QT for 4 weeks before adding that one to
the main tank. Am concerned about them fighting as fish 1 would have
made a territory. It's still very small (about 1"), so any new
addition would most likely be larger. Really don't know what to do
for the best? <Best to just wait at this point... for your
present organisms to mature, learn to live with each other for a few
to several months> Any help you can give would be gratefully
received - I have learned the hard way about how vital a QT is, even
if its only a small one like mine (13 litres!). Many thanks,
Carolyn <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm re Cnid. comp....
reduction of negative interactions, their effects. Bob Fenner>
Re: Urgently need help - unidentified clown fish problem... env.
4/7/08 Dear Bob, <Carolyn> Thanks for the reply and
advice - much less-than-accurate info had been given, I shall now be
avoiding that LFS in the future. <Best to vote with ones shoes...
walk on that is... Now if we could only do this with the
confiscatory practices of our gov't...> Have taken your advice on
board and are <am> leaving the tank as it stands - the plan is to
upgrade in the next 6 months to a much bigger tank (approx
200-300L), using our current one as a QT (hence why I was happy to
add a dwarf angel, knowing she'll be going to a much more suitable
size tank in the very near future). <I'd hold off till the new
tank is well in-place, established> Thanks again for the help and
the site - intend to spread the word about WWM to friends who also
keep fish :) <Ahhh! A pleasure to share. BobF> | 
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No clowning around (like I'm sure I'm the first to come up with that)
03/30/2008 Hi crew, <<Hello, Andrew here> On a serious
note. I've been trying to match what my clown is sick with on WWMedia
and the rest of the web. And I figure it's Brooklynellosis. The fish
cannot stay balanced (fish's nose is down and tail up, he can't stay
horizontal) and white stringy feces, which typically lead me to believe
bacterial (although could be secondary infection). I have attached 2
pictures. Hopefully they are clear enough. Water parameters in
quarantine (hence the bare bottom tank): NH4, NO2, NO3 all
undetectable, pH 8, salinity 1.024, temp 78F, tested everyday and 10%
water change everyday up until antibiotic treatment (read further).
He's been in quarantine for 5 days. Freshwater dip prior to QT for 10
minutes. Day 2 laboured breathing, never ate, just picked and spat
out. Lethargic day 4, day 5 swimming head down (lost balanced), and few
hours ago the white speckles (perhaps peeling slim coat, not really
sure). Also, I haven't seen any sort of flashing. I'm not really a
fan of organic chemicals (or anything poisonous) for what should be a
non-toxic hobby for all (animals and humans). As a geneticist, I am well
aware of the hazards and would be fully be protected in my own lab
(gloves, fume hood? etc). Contrary to my beliefs, after seeing his
condition, I gave him a formalin bath as per WWMedia recipe (1 minute);
Along with maracyn2 in quarantine tank. I'm at my wits end and hopefully
I haven't caused more damage. I'm hoping you could positively ID his
condition and course of treatment, as I'm sure he's a goner (but I won't
give up). I'll at least be able to recognize it again and treat sooner.
If he is still alive in the morning I'll be hopeful of a positive
outcome. <<Unfortunately, I really cannot make much out from the
attached pictures to make a diagnosis. Either submit in focus photo's or
have a read of this page and attached articles and FAQ's
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm >> Thanks in advance.
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Re: No clowning around (like I'm sure I'm the first to come up with
that), Dimilin in dips – 04/1/08 I had looked at that link
(many times), couldn't make any inferences. Unfortunately the clown died
the day before yesterday. He had no tail left, think he suffered too
long and was beyond return. <Agreed> Just before he died I dosed
the QT with Jungle Parasite clear (Praziquantel, Dimilin, Metronidazole,
Acriflavine). I really wanted just Metronidazole but I couldn't get any
at the time and picked up the mentioned out of desperation. Which leads
me to my question. In the dip/baths section, Bob is completely against
using Dimilin in marine systems. <Mmm, not efficacious as a dip
ingredient> Why is this so (especially if there are no inverts ie..
QT. I figure its just as bad as Cu++ meds, formalin...etc.)? <...
bad? No... just that acetylcholinesterase inhibitors in low
concentration don't do any good in short exposure> I could have sworn
I also saw a post with Bob recommending it for marine (although I can't
find it anymore). Could you explain the contradiction (that is if there
was, did his opinion change over time?). <Not w/o ref. to where this
is stated, no> Lastly, I assumed I had a parasitic infection as upon
dosing the QT, the clown moved erratically. Presumably because the
parasites were affected. <... what parasites? Do you have microscopic
evidence?> It could have been just from the clown reacting to the
meds but something (which I can't articulate...you had to see the clown)
seemed the parasites were moving to get away and burrowing in him
further. Thanks <... BobF>
Re: No clowning around (like I'm sure I'm the first to come up with
that) – 04/02/08 I do not have microscopic evidence. It was just
an inference on an observation with out proof - merely a feeling (true,
not scientific at all). <I see... do know this sort of guessing is
not altogether accurate. There are symptoms that "mimic" pathological
disease... with non-infectious/parasitic etiologies... Too often
"marks", abrasions, "odd" behavior are rooted in social, environmental,
nutritional, genetic... causes> I just like to know if you would
recommend/use Dimilin in marine QT (not dip but in the QT) and under
what circumstance? If not, why? Thanks <I have used, and suggested
such use for arthropod zoonoses... on bony fishes (not cartilaginous).
IF one was sure of a copepod infestation let's say, Dimilin might be a
good choice. BobF> | 
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Red Spot on Clownfish, using WWM – 03/18/08 Hello Crew. I
will make this fast. I cannot find this anywhere in the faq's. I have
two tank raised clowns and the one seems to have a red spot on the side
of its mouth. It almost looks like blood. It is raised also. It is about
in the area where a white spot once was and has disappeared. My param.s
are: pH = 8.2 Ammonia = 0 Nitrites = 0 Nitrates = 20ppm
(just did a water change 30 min.s ago) <Too high...> phosphates =
1.0 ppm <Ditto> What in the world could this be? Should i be
concerned? The fish is still eating by the way. Thanks a million for all
of your help Matt <Go here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm insert
your title: "Red Spot on Clownfish"; read the cached views. RMF>
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