Re: Clownfish Mouth
Sorry to bother again but this opens another
frame of thought and research for myself. Is there possibly more
of the isopods?
<Likely not... the ones with direct life cycles will
be on hosts...>
Should I sit back and just observe or should I put
something in the tank to take care of them? Can cleaner shrimp
take care of them?
<Unfortunately not when they're large...>
Thanks so much,
Greg
<Please do send along your notes,
observations on its removal. Bob Fenner>
Re: clownfish mouth,
isopod
What's up, again?
<I guess>
Yesterday, I tried to
remove the isopod from the fish's mouth. The pod did not appear as large
today as it did when I sent the picture. Do these things fluctuate in
size?
<A little, yes... can grow, shrink depending on food
availability... actually come to replace the "tongue" of fish hosts at
times... Ewwwww!>
Also I tried to remove what seem to be the pod
twice. Both attempts failed because I could not get a good grip with the
tweezers. Also, the isopod did not seem to be as hard as I thought it
was. The third time I tried to remove the isopod, it was gone. Do these
things move?
<Yes>
Could the fish have swallowed the pod?
<Not
likely. Wish I had remembered to mention to try this surgery outside the
system... hope you did so>
I fed him today and he ate, and breathing
seems normal. Could this pod reappear? Any other steps I should take?
<Keep your eyes open if you did this exercise over, in the main tank...
the parasite might return. Bob Fenner>
Clownfish darkening?!
Hi guys
<Conor>
Thanks in advance for your help. I have 4 small
tank raised common clownfish in my tank, with an external Ecco Eheim
filter, internal filter, salinity 1.020, nitrite 0, temp 25 degrees.
<I'd raise the spg...>
I have had the fish only 2 weeks and notice
that two of the fish have stopped eating as much and one of them has
stopped eating entirely and has taken to staying in the top right hand
corner and is opening and closing his mouth constantly. On the top of
his body is a darkened area that is new the last 2 days. His darkening
is more pronounced than the others - but all of the others have also
started to get these shaded areas on the top part of their bodies.
<Not good>
Is this a disease? How can I treat it?
<Is likely an
indication of environmental stress... is your tank cycled? Please read
through the many articles, FAQs files archived on WWM re Clownfish
Systems, Disease...>
I would be most grateful if you could help - I'm
not sure where to go now!
Thanks - Conor, Dublin, Ireland.
<I
am... WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner>
Re: Clownfish
darkening?!
Thanks for that. My tank is cycled - I had it running
for a month before introducing any fish.
<Still... may not be cycled>
I was worried that the symptoms (the darkening on the upper part of the
body) might be a sign of velvet disease?
<Doubtful>
The tank is
fish only - no live rock and I can't see what would be stressing the
fish out. They were all very active and hungry at the beginning and I
have not yet done any water changes. I was going to do my first water
change on Friday. My LFS can sell me a medicine for velvet which I was
thinking of adding as a precautionary measure - any views?
<Please
read... WWM, our books, articles re...>
Lastly - the fish are
juveniles - if they are maturing into male/female sexes would this
explain the darkening and loss of appetite?
<No>
Thanks again!
<Keep reading... Bob Fenner>
- Clownfish Wasting -
Thanks
for your great site! I've learned a lot from it in the past months. I
have a Tomato clown that looks like it has been pinched at the top... or
is deflated. it seems to be getting worse and despite my best efforts, I
can't figure out what is causing it. We feed a varied diet to her. I
look forward to hearing from you with your ideas. Thank you. Michele
<It sounds to me as though your clownfish has an internal parasite that
is competing for food. I would try to get your hands on a medicated
food, the New Life Spectrum Thera+a would be a good choice. There are
more drastic measures you can take, but I'd prefer you try this first as
drastic measures can have drastic results if the fish is in a weakened
condition. Cheers, J -- >
Pregnant or Constipated Clown?
Hi Bob,
<Yvonne>
I have read many pages on your site and on
other sites trying to find out what's happening to my clownfish. I am
suspecting the female clown is pregnant. How does pregnant clown
look like?
<Mmm, a bit round in profile...>
A little background
about my aquarium. It's a 40-gallon SeaClear Sys II with built
in filter, etc ready for reef.
<You can see my input re these
rigs... the folks who own the co. are friends, but the filtration, and
trying to work on these "systems" is bunk... looks like you do the
"extra maintenance" here... Good!>
I got that as a gift from my
husband. I have a pair of mated clown fish (wild) and a yellow
mimic tang. They all get along very well and I've have them for
more than 3 years now. All the corals are blossoming and water
reading is great. I do not have an anemone for the clowns and so I
use a Hammer coral instead. The clown fishies like it, and now the
hammer coral has grown pretty big - about 10 inches wide during the day.
<All sounds great>
Suddenly I noticed a big change in behaviour
today. I noticed that the yellow mimic tang's tail is bitten.
The female clown is swimming weird, with its head downward and it has a
huge belly. The male is fine and they will still swim together
although the female swims kinda funny. When I fed them, they ate
like gluttons as usual. The female can actually swim normal when
it was trying to get the food but after it's done, it would swim weird
again. Occasionally it will go 'home' to the Hammer coral and
hangs in there for while, and then swim about again. The yellow
mimic tang seems more shy than usual and it dares not swim near the
Hammer coral now. Could the female clown be pregnant?
<Mmmm,
yes>
I've read that the couple clown would pick and clear a spawning
ground before the eggs are laid. I have not noticed any of this
biting and picking a spot behaviour, unless they did that during the day
when I was out.
<Maybe... should be down near the bottom, at
the base of the coral>
They seem to be very active and happy.
When I put my hand into the water, they still swim and play with
my fingers as usual. Yeah, this seems funny, I play with them :)
So everything's normal except the big belly, weird swimming style and
the poor yellow mimic tang of mine with its tail bitten. FYI, the
skin of all fish look fine (no mucus, spots, no fin rot, no
discoloration, etc). Could the female be pregnant? How does a pregnant
clown look like? Or could it be constipated? I hope everything'll be
fine soon....I hate to lose it to any kind of diseases.
<Not likely
constipated, but I might feed more live or defrosted/frozen small
crustaceans as these have a laxative effect... and keep your eyes on the
behavior... twixt the Tang and the Clowns... a forty is too small for
having these together ultimately... the Tang will have to be moved. Very
likely your clowns are engaging in reproductive behavior>
Thanks for
your great help. Appreciate it. Keep up the good work on the
website. It's so helpful. Goodnight.
- Yvonne
<Welcome. Bob
Fenner>
Clownfish in Quarantine - II
Hello again guys -
<Hello Phil>
Reading through ALL of the FAQ's on clownfish, the only
FAQ that remotely resembles the symptoms described in my previous e-mail
calls for the use of Metronidazole (Flagyl). Is this the correct course
of action to take in this instance?
<I can tell you that this
medication is used for treating bacterial, fungus, and some parasitic
infections. It's also being studied in the treatment of some cancers.>
I have continued with the 12hr photoperiod as there is no external light
in the room containing the QT tank, and have improved the fishes' diet
to include krill, mussel and cockle as well as the Artemia. Any other
suggestions on diet/medication would be greatly appreciated. (Please
note that as these are the first fish I have ever had, and I am adamant
that these fish all make it through to the main tank in good health!)
Thanks once again
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Ailing A.
percula
Hi,
<Hello there>
I think I've read every clownfish
faq on your site now!! :-) But I still wanted to write because I have a
mated pair of A. percula set up in a 20L for breeding purposes and the
male is not looking good. I didn't want to medicate the fish before
knowing what might be wrong, as the mere act of medicating could cause
me to lose them, if it's the wrong medication.
<You're so right>
All water quality parameters are excellent, as are the Percs' invert.
tankmates (pair of L. amboinensis -- who try to clean the fish, but the
fish will not let them,
<Best to not have this animal here... too
few "customers" and a bother to the breeders, their spawn>
some
hermits and snails). Both fish ate at the LFS before I bought them
(about 2 wks. ago). They were inseparable in my tank and ate some Prime
Reef flake the first few days. Then, they seemed to decrease feeding
frequency. I thought maybe it was the food, so I tried feeding them
thawed frozen prime reef cubes and then vitamin-enriched Artemia. In the
meantime, I noticed white, stringy feces from both fish, but as I've
read on your site, I'm not sure if this is a sign of internal parasites
or their non-feeding...
<Are these wild fish? If so, they are very
likely hosting parasite fauna.>
The female will eat a couple of
pieces of food, but for the most part they are taking in the food and
then spitting it back out. This has been
ongoing for about a week
now. Then, yesterday, I noticed the male in the back of the tank (he's
usually in the flowerpot w/the female) with a clamped dorsal fin,
refusing to eat at all. So, his symptoms were clamped fin, white,
stringy feces and refusing to eat. I also noticed some marks on him and
I thought it was "bite-marks" from the female (she did a fair bit of
chasing him initially), but now I wonder if maybe it's some necrosis?
<Possibly... the environment is at least some influence... so I
hope/trust it is optimal and stable>
After reading a lot of your
FAQs, I decided to put both fish in a FW, pH/temp adjusted bath for 15
min. Both fish tolerated the bath very well. This morning, I noticed the
male's pectoral, pelvic and caudal fins are frayed and the clear area of
the pectoral fins is cloudy/filmy. He was actually hanging out in the
front of the tank, just outside the opening of the flowerpot (in which
remained the female) -- but he is no longer clamping his dorsal. I fed
them some enriched Artemia (I know, I need to get Mysis :-) ) and the
female ate a few. The male did not eat at all and then the female
"tried" eating more but promptly spit it back out. I've tried feeding
them frozen Prime Reef, Prime Reef flake, newly hatched Artemia nauplii
(from a culture I'm hoping to raise to adulthood) and vitamin E-enriched
frozen Artemia. Their finickiness reminds me of my 3 year old daughter.
ha ha
I'm torn because I don't know if I should medicate with
Metronidazole (internal parasites?) or formalin/copper
(Brooklynellosis?) or just leave them alone. They have never been real
strong eaters (I'm comparing them to my 6 yr. old Clarkii who can never
seem to get enough). lol I know you must read hundreds of these types of
emails a week, but I just can't seem to decide what this might be and I
don't want to do something wrong and lose them. We all know we can do
everything right and still lose them.
<Mmm, wish you had told me you
were testing your water, changing a good deal out regularly here... The
stress from the shrimp I'd eliminate with its removal, I would also
switch out the other invertebrates... and lower the spg here a few tens
of thousandths... to 1.018 over a few days time... I would leave off
with trying formalin, copper... might try the Metronidazole... would
look at some of their feces with a microscope if you had one... Bob
Fenner>
White spots on clowns, ich?
Evening crew (or
James......I usually get your fabulous advice). I have a pair of false
percula clowns that have been in my display tank for a little over 2.5
weeks. They seem to each have a couple of tiny white spots on their
bodies. I know this looks like ich, but hear me out. I had an outbreak
of ich in the tank with a yellow tang (which I lost) a few months ago. I
let the main tank run fallow for 8 weeks and upon receiving the clowns
quarantined for 3 weeks. I don't see how it could be ich given what I've
done to eradicate the problem. I also have not noticed any of the other
tell-tale signs of ich, i.e. loss of color or appetite, flashing or
scratching, or heavy gilling.
<Could be "something else">
The
fish have good color and eat like monsters. They do however pick at each
other from time to time. Is it possible the spots are just where they've
picked away a few scales?
<Yes>
Water parameters are: pH 8.3, alk
10dkH, temp 80, salinity 1.022, ammonia nitrites and nitrates are all
undetectable (all figures are always stable and steady). I figure I'll
watch them closely to make sure the spots don't spread. What do you
think about this?
Always appreciative,
Eric
<I would hold off
on moving these fish, medicating... maybe bolstering their immune
systems with Selcon or equivalent soaked foods... But even if this is
some parasite other than Cryptocaryon, I doubt if it will spread
(perhaps a subdermal worm of some sort). Bob Fenner>
Maroon Clown
Disease/Injury
I have Maroon clown, that I've had for years, with
some white fuzz or thick mucus at the bottom of one of it's gill plates.
It's acting normal, not having breathing difficulties and eating fine,
and none of the other fish (Eblii angel, Orchid Dottyback, Yellow
Watchman Goby) are having any problems. It could be an injury because
the Maroon clown gets aggressive with attacking objects in the aquarium
like the heater, snails, hermit crabs, and moves little rocks around.
<Yes... a good speculation>
I also have an Emerald crab that could
have pinched the clown and an urchin that could have skewered the clown
if it tried to move it. Please let me know what you think. I hope I
described the circumstances well enough for you. Thanks.
<I'm in
agreement with your guesses... and hope that your fish will stay
healthy. Bob Fenner>
Sick Ocellaris Clownfish
Hello
Crew,
I want to thank you for a wonderful site that you have. I have
had my 80 gallon tank w 90lb of live rock set up for about a year and
found your site about 10 months ago and you have made it quite
enjoyable.
<Ah, good>
My tank has the following inhabitants,
yellow tang, coral beauty, 2 ocellaris clownfish, blue damsel , 2
firefish gobies and a lawnmower blenny, 2 cleaner shrimp, feather duster
and misc. snails and crabs. The clownfish were the last thing I added
back in late October. My water parameters are as follows ph
-8.3,nitrites and ammonia -0, spec grav - 1.024, nitrates at 15ppm and
temp at 78.
The reason I am writing to you is one day in early
January, 2 of my then 3 clownfish were swimming funny, the next morning
one was in the rocks unable to control his motion. I was able to grab
him with a net and kept him there until I returned from work.
Unfortunately the other clown was dead in the rocks and a crab dinner.
The only thing I can think of is that during a weekly water change I
used a toothbrush and siphon to scrub a rock of what can best be
described as a red carpet.
<Likely a BGA/Cyanobacteria mat/colony...
this could be a/the root cause, though clowns do "just die" when
small/er at times>
The clowns are aggressive eater and I thought that
they may have ingested some of this "red carpet". I put the injured
clownfish in a small hospital refugium inside the main tank. I observed
for a while and no other signs of trouble with the other inhabitants
occurred. He has been there ever since. He is not able to control his
swimming motion. He basically swims on his left side, on top of the
water and curls up in a U position.
He is active (the other
clownfish is always near), eats daily (I target feed him) and has no
color loss. Do you have any suggestions on what can be done ? I do have
a 30 gallon QT tank but would buy a 10 gallon if medication was
suggested.
<I suspect that the swimming, neuronal difficulty is
incurable... that this is probably a developmental/genetic anomaly... I
would place the fish back in the main tank... as this is not catching.
Bob Fenner>
Possible sick clown
I'd like to say how helpful
I have found your website and that I am really glad it's up. I've
recently purchased two very young true Percs to go along with the BTA I
purchased a few months back. On one of the clowns I am noticing what
looks like his lower lip swelling. It seems as though he can't even
close his mouth.
<Happens... usually from a physical trauma... at
times from genetic expression>
Today I found that now below his lip
on what would be his chin is a black spot that sticks out something like
a pimple. I've looked on your website and on many other sites, but can't
seem to find anything. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much.
-Kavon
<Not much to do on either of the two
most common "causes" here. Good care (husbandry issues) at this point
are important... optimized water quality, good nutrition. Bob Fenner>
Sick Polymnus Clownfish 4/17/05
I purchased a mated pair of
Saddleback (Polymnus) clownfish about 3 weeks ago. When I first placed
them into my 12 gallon QT tank, they seemed very healthy and readily
accepted foods including Mysis soaked in vitamins, Cyclop-Eeze and small
pellets. However, after two weeks or so, I began to notice some odd
behavior in the female (who is about 3x larger than her mate). She
seemed very lethargic, mostly swimming near the bottom of the tank
without the usual bobbing motion associated with her species. Once in a
while, I noticed she would just swim from one end of the tank to the
other, sometimes gently bumping into the tank wall before reversing
direction. She also stopped eating, but exhibited no signs of parasites
or other diseases. The male remains very healthy.
<A. polymnus
aren't the hardiest of clowns and often fail to acclimate to captivity.
The black variant seems to do somewhat better. If these are wild caught
specimens, I would suggest that you research and rule out Brooklynella
(usually indicated by thick cloudy mucous on skin). If it is
Brooklynella, both clowns must be moved to a hospital tank and must be
treated with Formalin baths.>
A couple days ago, I moved the pair
into the 60gal reef tank, hoping that a larger tank would perk her up.
After several hours, the pair began hosting in my LTA anemone. At first
I thought the female had perked up, but it has been two days now and she
is still not eating (it's been about a week total since she stopped
eating). This morning I discovered that one eye is beginning to bulge
out, looks like early stages of Popeye however the eye is not cloudy.
There is a small hippo tang in the tank which is perfectly happy and
only occasionally hangs around the clownfish and their anemone although
I've seen no biting.
<"Pop Eye", especially when only one eye is
affected is most often caused by physical injury. However, in her
outstanding book on Clownfishes, Joyce Wilkerson describes a very rare
fungal disease that often causes pop-eye and the other signs you have
described. There is no certain way to diagnose it while the fish is
still alive, but she suggests that it can be treated by soaking food in
1% phenoxyethanol I don't have a brand name to recommend, but it will be
marketed as an anti-fungal medication (don't substitute!).>
What do
you suggest I do? Is her strange behavior just a result of the Popeye
she is developing or is there a bigger issue likely involved? Should I
move the female (or both) back to the QT tank? Should I treat with Epsom
salts or Maracyn as you sometimes suggest? Thanks for your help. You
guys perform a wonderful service! Saahil.
<I would not move the fish
again. The other fish have already been exposed to the problem and
further stress and physical contact with the injured eye could be quite
harmful. If the fish is not eating, there is no way to get
phenoxyethanol into the fish (adding to the water is ineffective), so
you will have to offer tempting foods and wait it out. Best Regards.
AdamC.>
Lymphocystis on A. ocellaris 4/15/05 Hi WWM Crew, First of
all thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience on this
site and helping other Hobbyists around the globe. I have learned a
lot from the WWM site since I first discovered it 2 months ago
(shortly after I set up my first marine tank). <Thanks for the
kind words! Knowing that you and your pets have benefited makes this
a very satisfying job!> So far I have always be able to find
answers to my questions by reading the articles and FAQs. However
this time I think I need some additional help. I bought a Amphiprion
Ocellaris 5 days ago and acclimate it to the quarantine tank with a
quick fresh water dip. It looked well and started eating the same
day. However 3 days later I discovered a small round patch on its
tail, which has now grown 3 times bigger to about 3-4 MM and spread
to the underside of its body. It has not lost his appetite and feeds
eagerly, but is not as active as the first two days. It stays around
the same spot except when feeding. <This all sounds good. Do
keep in mind that FW dips less than about 5 minutes are probably
ineffective. A target of 10-15 minutes (or even longer), especially
for very tolerant fishes is ideal.> After some research and
reading through your site, I think it has Lymphocystis but the
lesions pictured in the following two links do not look the same,
and are different to those in the pictures I took. I am hoping that
you can confirm my thoughts, or otherwise point me to the right
direction.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/viraldislymph.htm
http://www.enaca.org/Health/DiseaseLibrary/LymphocystisDis.pdf
<The white "wart like" appearance of lymphocystis is very
distinctive as is the fact that it occurs almost exclusively on the
EDGES of the fins or mouth. It is not likely to be confused with
another kind of disease or lesion. Lymphocystis is also common to a
small number of species and very uncommon in most others. It is
unusual in clowns. If you are confident that it is lymphocystis, I
would not worry... it is rarely life threatening and goes away on
it's own. My guess is that your fish suffered an abrasion or similar
injury. Well fed specimens in good quality water usually heal well
and quickly.> Here are the tank parameters as of today: pH
8.2, Temperature 79F, Ammonia 0.005 mg/l (I was surprised to see
this as the tank has been running for over a month and I quarantined
two yellow gobies for 2 weeks right before the clownfish, both
yellow gobies are now doing well in my main tank), Nitrite not
detectable, Nitrate 20 mg/l. <Any measurable Ammonia is cause for
concern but before you start to worry, please verify your result
with another kit, preferably of another brand. (a friend or good LFS
should save you the expense of buying another). Although it probably
has little to do with your problem, I suggest that all marine
aquarists regularly test and maintain alkalinity, even in fish only
tanks.> I have cut back feeding and done 30% daily water change
for the past three days. This has brought down Ammonia level from
0.01 mg/l to the current level. Should I just keep doing this to
improve the water quality? Or should I take further actions? Your
help is very much appreciated. Best Regards, Damien Kwok, Hong Kong
<If you verify the results of your ammonia test kit (the change in
level suggest that it may be correct), then you need to address the
biological filtration problem. In the mean time, please make sure
you fish is getting enough food. It will need the energy to heal.
Water changes are a good idea, but make sure that the new water has
been aerated over night. Also, ammonia becomes more toxic at higher
pH, so I would suggest that you check the pH of both the tank and
new water immediately before the change. If the pH of the new water
is higher than the pH in the tank, it should be carefully adjust it
down (check your local fish store for "pH Down" or similar products)
so that it is the same as the tank. Best Regards. AdamC.> |

|
Lymphocystis on A. Ocellaris FOLLOW-UP 4/15/05 <Damien, I am
following up because I missed your pictures the first time I
replied. I still don't think that your fish has Lymphocystis, but
that certainly isn't a simple abrasion either. I am asking the other
crew members to take a look, but in the mean time, I am not going to
alter my advice, except to suggest that if it continues to get
worse, I would move the fish to a hospital tank for antibiotic
treatment. AdamC.> Hi WWM Crew, First of all thank you all for
sharing your knowledge and experience on this site and helping other
Hobbyists around the globe. I have learned a lot from the WWM site
since I first discovered it 2 months ago (shortly after I set up my
first marine tank). <Thanks for the kind words! Knowing that you
and your pets have benefited makes this a very satisfying job!>
So far I have always be able to find answers to my questions by
reading the articles and FAQs. However this time I think I need some
additional help. I bought a Amphiprion Ocellaris 5 days ago and
acclimate it to the quarantine tank with a quick fresh water dip. It
looked well and started eating the same day. However 3 days later I
discovered a small round patch on its tail, which has now grown 3
times bigger to about 3-4 MM and spread to the underside of its
body. It has not lost his appetite and feeds eagerly, but is not as
active as the first two days. It stays around the same spot except
when feeding. <This all sounds good. Do keep in mind that FW
dips less than about 5 minutes are probably ineffective. A target of
10-15 minutes (or even longer), especially for very tolerant fishes
is ideal.> After some research and reading through your site, I
think it has Lymphocystis but the lesions pictured in the
following two links do not look the same, and are different to those
in the pictures I took. I am hoping that you can confirm my
thoughts, or otherwise point me to the right direction.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/viraldislymph.htm
http://www.enaca.org/Health/DiseaseLibrary/LymphocystisDis.pdf
<The white "wart like" appearance of lymphocystis is very
distinctive as is the fact that it occurs almost exclusively on the
EDGES of the fins or mouth. It is not likely to be confused with
another kind of disease or lesion. Lymphocystis is also common to a
small number of species and very uncommon in most others. It is
unusual in clowns. If you are confident that it is lymphocystis, I
would not worry... it is rarely life threatening and goes away on
it's own. My guess is that your fish suffered an abrasion or similar
injury. Well fed specimens in good quality water usually heal well
and quickly.> Here are the tank parameters as of today: Ph
8.2, Temperature 79F, Ammonia 0.005 mg/l (I was surprised to see
this as the tank has been running for over a month and I quarantined
two yellow gobies for 2 weeks right before the clownfish, both
yellow gobies are now doing well in my main tank), Nitrite not
detectable, Nitrate 20 mg/l <Any measurable Ammonia is cause for
concern but before you start to worry, please verify your result
with another kit, preferably of another brand. (a friend or good LFS
should save you the expense of buying another). Although it probably
has little to do with your problem, I suggest that all marine
aquarists regularly test and maintain alkalinity, even in fish only
tanks.> I have cut back feeding and done 30% daily water change
for the past three days. This has brought down Ammonia level from
0.01 mg/l to the current level. Should I just keep doing this to
improve the water quality? Or should I take further actions? Your
help is very much appreciated. Best Regards, Damien Kwok, Hong Kong
<If you verify the results of your ammonia test kit (the change in
level suggest that it may be correct), then you need to address the
biological filtration problem. In the mean time, please make sure
you fish is getting enough food. It will need the energy to heal.
Water changes are a good idea, but make sure that the new water has
been aerated over night. Also, ammonia becomes more toxic at higher
pH, so I would suggest that you check the pH of both the tank and
new water immediately before the change. If the pH of the new water
is higher than the pH in the tank, it should be carefully adjust it
down (check your local fish store for "ph Down" or similar products)
so that it is the same as the tank. Best Regards. AdamC.> |
Another Follow-up, Remarks to the Lymphocystic Clown
<snip> The
reason I am writing everyone is because I also completely missed the
attached photos when I replied and they are scary! The person described
an Ocellaris with a white patch on it's tail that spread a bit.
They thought it was lymphocystis. They sounded pretty newbie with a
young tank and reported a trace amount of ammonia. The fish was acting
and eating normally. I replied that I doubted lymphocystis because of
the species and the location of the lesion and made suggestions for
proper water changes. It sounded more like the fish got banged up
a bit, so I also suggested that abrasions usually heal fine on their own
with good food and improved water quality.
However, when I did go
back and look at the pics.... yikes! Whatever it is sure doesn't look
like lymphocystis, although it is understandable how they came to that
conclusion. Whatever it is pretty ugly looking, but doesn't look like
anything I have ever seen before except for some pics that one of the
crew (Jeni I think) shared with us of a puffer condition where spreading
patches of the skin turns grayish until the fish perishes.
If anyone
is inclined to take a look, the original message is in the
"emailswithimages" folder. I will be curious if anyone has any insight.
Thanks!
AdamC
<Have looked at image, text... does look like some
sort of tumorous growth... diag/prognosis, about the same as lymph...
BobF>
<<Adam, I've answered some queries quite similar to this, and
in my research I did find that, while very uncommon, Lymphocystis can
indeed occur on the body like what is pictured. In my own opinion many,
if not MOST, instances of disease are more due to water quality,
nutrition, and basic husbandry issues than anything else. Lympho is no
different in this respect. Marina>>
Lymphocystis on A. ocellaris
Part 3 4/17/05
Hi Adam, Thank you for the response. Unfortunately
my clownfish's condition deteriorated rapidly, stopped eating and moving
around, and finally passed away yesterday.
<Sorry to hear.>
Looking back if I did not diagnose the illness as Lymphocystis and
treated with antibiotics right away, it might have made the difference.
Anyway I guess this is part of the experience and how we learn.
<I
polled the Crew for input about your clownfish, and got a few replies.
One indicated that there are occasions when lymphocystis does occur as a
body lesion. Another agreed it probably was not lymphocystis, but has
seen similar lesions which eventually went away without intervention.>
I hope someone can identify the true cause of the lesions in the picture
and recommend the appropriate actions. Not only I can learn the lesson
and know how to deal with it next time, the information can be useful
for other hobbyists as well.
Best Regards, Damien Kwok
<For all
of the reasons you listed, I wish I had a more definitive answer. In the
mean time, I would suggest that you don't add any new fish for a couple
of weeks, just in case this was caused by a communicable disease. Best
Regards. AdamC.>
I think my female clown is going to die
Hi
there,
I have had a pair of perc clowns for about 5 months. Just in
the past week I have noticed that the female has been very sick. She
will lay on either of her sides then get up and swim for a while, or she
seems like she will sit in the water with her head facing the surface
and her tail pointing downwards. ( I read on your website that that
could be a swim bladder infection... but she's not doing it anymore.)
But she just seems listless all the time, except when I feed the fish
she gets up as if nothing is wrong at all. Sometimes she will go lay
down on the live rock and the male clown will nudge her belly and sort
of hold her up so that she doesn't lay on the rock. The first day all of
this started, there was a little red spot on her dorsal fin and it was
split in a few places. Once a day for 4 days I put a tablet of Maracyn
for fin and tail rot in the tank.... following the instructions on the
box. That helped her spot and her fins but not her behavior. 2 days ago
I put some Stress coat in the tank and after about 2 hours she seemed
all better and was swimming with her mate and they were bobbing their
heads around together. Yesterday she was back to her rock again but this
time she wasn't laying on it she just faced the rock not swimming. This
morning I woke up to look at her and I found her on top of the powerhead
of the filter that I have she was still breathing but one of her gills
was partially out of the water so I scooted her off of the box. She
struggled to get back on the power head and then just to stay at the
surface of the tank but then turned around and shot to the bottom of the
tank where she is just sitting right now. The male perc is fine and I
have a black damsel that is fine and I just added a baby dwarf lionfish
( the fish store told my husband and I that the dwarf lionfish wouldn't
get big enough to eat my other fish)
<Only time will tell here...
even small Lions have very big mouths...>
who is also doing well.
What could be the problem?
Please help!
- Nicole
<Your notes re changes in behavior with chemical additions point to the
likely issue of "poor water quality"... as a/the source of trouble. I
would be looking into issues, ways to improve it... you do have a
skimmer? Do regular water changes? Test kits for nitrate, phosphate? Bob
Fenner>
Clownfish/Disease
Hey guys.
I do believe
that something has injured or hurt my clownfish. The little guy is
either by the heater hanging out, or he will be swimming around in the
tank through out the day. This morning when I looked into my tank, he
was in the opposite corner of where he is usually hanging out and he was
not actively swimming amongst the tank as he normally does. Then, I
looked a little bit closer and noticed that his mouth was open. I have
never seen my little clownfish keep his mouth open for extended periods
of time. I have also noticed that behind his right fin that there is a
little bit of discoloration. When I fed the fish in the morning, he was
not as aggressive as he normally is in order to get food. He did eat a
pellet or two, but normally he comes right up to the top of the tank
when he realizes food is up there and he plays a pretty good fight in
order to get food.
So, if you could help me or let me know what you
think the problem is, if anything, I would greatly appreciate the help.
Let me know what I can do to help make him feel better and return to the
norm because he is my most favorite fish that I have, and I would hate
to loose him.
<Ken, I would check ammonia and nitrite levels first
and see where you're at. Pellet foods are not a good everyday food. If
you are going to use them, soak them in a vitamin supplement such as
Selcon to give the fish the vitamins they require....just like us. James
(Salty Dog)>
Thanks guys! You guys are doing a wonderful job! Ken
Clownfish/Disease Follow-up
James, Can you give me more
information on what would be better for my fish's diet? I
currently have the clownfish I spoke of and also two yellow-tailed
damsels and also a three striped damsel. What would be better for their
diet that
regular pellet food?
<Ken, a varied diet is important
for the health of your fish. It would be like us eating pizzas every
day. Mysis shrimp, adult brine (not a lot of nutrition there, but
something they like, soaked in Selcon.) Bloodworms are another. I
supplement my feedings with Ocean Nutrition Flake food soaked in Selcon.
It's a pretty decent food for flake food. Then there are Ocean
Nutrition's frozen cubes in various menu types.>
Also, where can I
get the vitamin supplements to soak the pellet food in?
<Drs. Foster
and Smith is where I get mine. Key up
www.DrsFosterandSmith.com and go from there. Get on their catalog
mailing list. I've had excellent service from them and they do back up
what they sell. You can also do a Google search on the Wet Web, keyword
"Foods". James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks, yet again!
<You're welcome>
Clownfish/Disease - More Follow-up
James,
I just ordered some
additional foods and vitamins from Drs. Foster and Smith.
<Good>
I will throw some more foods in the tank at feeding times and hopefully,
the fish will like the variety a little better. The pellet food I had
been using is the "Complete Marine Fish Food" by TetraFin, and I was
wrong in thinking that is all they need. I have also have a brine shrimp
hatching canister that I purchased from a local fish store. Will the
clownfish and damsels eat live brine also?
<Sure>
What would the
best feeding procedures be? Should I just put a little bit of each food
together and give to them when I feed them, or would it be best to use a
different food for each feeding cycle?
<Feed a different food at
each cycle, only feed what they will eat.>
Thank you so much, yet
again for your help. I am very appreciative for you help and assistance.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Clownfish 27 Mar 2005
Dear WWM crew
<Hi Paula, MacL here with you today.>
I have two
tomato clowns who live as a pair in an anemone they are both feeding and
have I think begun to look like they are making a nest.
<Very
possible.>
The larger clown has a white spot on both sides at the
top edge of the gill covers. There are only the two spots they are
almost identical in size and are in exactly the same place on opposite
sides of the fish.
<Sounds like its just his coloration then.>
I
have had no new additions in about two months and all other fish are
clear apart from my blue damsel who has lumps out of him from fighting
with a bicolour blenny. Not related I am sure!!
<Probably not but a
situation you might want to fix.>
I wonder as the fish is so healthy,
the predominant feeder in the tank, in-fact, if these marks could be
related to breeding displays? Perhaps?
<It's possible but it could
just be coloration as they mature.>
Have you ever heard of this
before?
<Yep.>
They are in a 400 litre reef tank, all the
chemical levels are good generally (except the Nitrate is a wee bit high
not even enough to worry corals though), they are doing well. I like fat
fish!
<EEEK put the brakes on, just as it's not healthy for humans
it's not healthy for fish to be too large.>
Appreciate your help
Thanks Paula. Xx Hard to get good advice in New Zealand as the hobby is
rare here.
<We are certainly glad you have come to visit us Paula.
Hope I helped. MacL>
UWO - Unidentified White Object
(Marine)
My clown has a white spot on its chin...what could it
be?...
<It could be any number of things, I really don't have enough
info to give much help. Remember, if you give more info, you get more
info. :-) >
looks white like if it were dead skin hanging...any
suggestions?
<Yes, skim through (stress the "skim" part, this is a
huge amount of information) the disease pages on WWM (linked below) and
see if you can identify the condition yourself. Best of luck, Mike G
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/infectio.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/disFAQsMar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisfaqs2.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisfaqs3.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisfaq4.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisfaq5.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisfaq6.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshfa.htm >
Sick Clown?
HI,
<Hello>
I have a Nemo clown fish (use to have two), here is my
situation, I added a sea anemone ( hope I spelled it right)...
<Not
sure which one that is, guessing a Sebae...>
... and within twenty
four hours one clown was dead.
<Water quality!!! have you tested the
water, and did you quarantine the fish and anemone when you added it?>
The clown seem to be fine, the day before he was rubbing in the sea
anemone and the other was hovering in the sand like digging a whole.
Anyway now my second clown is laying on his side and looks slightly
pale, but he gets up when I come over and move my finger around on the
glass and he is eating good, he is not swimming much at all! Please let
me know what you think.
<Test your water, and do a major water change
ASAP of 25% at least. then keep testing daily and keep doing 25% water
changes to lower the levels.>
<Justin (Jager)>
Clarkii
Clown with Black Ich, No Quarantine
Hello,
<Hi>
Love the
site, thanks for all the info and help in the faq's. The question I have
pertains to my Clarkii clown. I introduced an Emperor Angel and a
Moorish Idol a few weeks ago, and both seem to be doing great, having a
small itch outbreak, but raised the temp and am lowering the salinity as
we speak.
<No Q/T??>
My Clarkii started developing black spots
on his body and fins. I think it might be the black spot disease, but I
am not
sure as that usually pertains to tangs.
<Nope all fish can
get Blackspot, tangs are just the most notorious for getting anything
first.>
I have a 100 gallon with live rock, sand, refugium, all my
water parameters seem to be fine.
<Seem to be fine does not tell me
anything... We really need the numbers of all the tests to help.>
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Sincerely,
Graham Hebson
<Well Graham, Blackspot is treated just
like ich. lower the salinity, and raise the temperature. if the
hyposalinity (1.011 by the end) does not work, I would treat the clown
with an anti ich medication like formalin or copper in q/t. Also please
q/t all fish prior to adding them to your display for at least 4 weeks
to keep diseases from spreading.>
<Justin (Jager)>
Dead Perc
Clown
Dear WWM Crew,
Just to acknowledge, My wife and I are
new to the world of reef keeping. We have been reading your letters for
almost a year before we invested, and have found that your place on the
web is the best place for information and its one of the reasons we have
started, just wanted to say you guys are great.....
<Thanks>
I was
not able to find this question and or answer any where. We have a
90 GAL 67LBS of live rock and 80Lbs of live sand and this includes the
rock and sand in the CPR Refugium Pro w/protein skimmer. We have 2 10k
MH lamps and 2 125 watt VHO. All we have for fish right now are 1 Regal
Tang 2 Perc Clowns and some snails, crabs, 1 cleaner shrimp and 2
Peppermint Shrimp.
One of our clowns has been acting real strange,
and I understand from reading some of your letters that they do some
times act this way, but this clown has been swimming in circles, on one
side, backwards, and sitting on the bottom. I really think its sick for
some reason oh forgot to mention he was also seen shaking like he had a
spasm or getting electrocuted, which I have read in one of your letters
that they also do this sometimes. After all this he was last seen on the
bottom behind some rock he was up right and breathing normal, but now we
can not find him and I'm worried if he had died and we cant find him
what will this do to the tank if I cant pull him out. I apologize
for the long email. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You guys
are the best, keep up the great work.
Best Regards,
Ken and Renata
<The crabs will clean him up if he is not detected. In a tank your size
it shouldn't hurt anything, but it's always best to get him out. James
(Salty Dog)>
Clown Questions
I'm so sorry to contact
you, but I've been looking on your site and I can't find the answer. I
have a black clownfish and his bottom fins look white and fuzzy. The
tips of them have always had a little white to them because I think he
was nipped at in the store. I've had him for about 4 weeks. Other than
that, he is doing great.
<I would just keep an eye on him.>
All
my water test are perfect, I had them tested at the LFS. Also, is it
possible for a black and a orange clown to mate? <I don't know of that
happening.>
One more question. I have a bubble, sebae, rose tip,
rock, and a curly anemone and the clowns don't go in any of them. Why?
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
<Just cause you have
anemones, doesn't guarantee that the clowns will go in them. Really not
a good idea to have that many anemones in a tank. They do move
occasionally and sooner or later one will sting the other. Kristie, here
is a link on anemones worth reading.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm.
James (Salty Dog)>
Everything Died
I have a 10 gallon
tank that used to have a small damsel and a very small clownfish.
<Too small for these fishes...>
Recently both got ich and died. I
tried treating with Rid-Ich but they still passed away.
<Likely
helped on by the medicine>
The clown went first and then the damsel.
They were covered completely in white dots, even on the eyes. I was sure
it was ich at first but now am not sure because along with the white
dots was an cloudy mucous-y gunk on most of their body??
<Maybe
Brooklynella, possibly just their skin/reaction to the
formalin/malachite>
My water chemistry was perfect until I started
treating. I have the tank cycling without anything in it and am
wondering if I should empty it out and clean the entire tank completely
and buy new live sand and live rock or will I be just as well off
letting the tank cycle for about 3 weeks and add some live rock to the
set-up?
<Better to bleach all... re-set-up with some new LR>
I
want to make sure that there are no diseases left in the tank when I
begin to add fish and that there is a large population of "good"
bacteria. I just want to get a small damsel, maybe two and that's it.
Any advice on what I should do? It was sad to see both the fish die, I
really felt like the damsel would tough it out, but it didn't. Any idea
why?
Thanks.
<Read... go here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ - see the Google search tool? Insert:
"Damsel stocking", "Brooklynella", "Clownfish Disease"... study my
friend. Bob Fenner>
Sick or just clowning around
Hello
Bob,
Hope you can shed a little light on my problem with my
daughter's tank-raised clownfish (Nemo and Marlin). Lately they
have been hanging around at the top of the tank near power head, either
on their side or vertically head up or head down. they also are
breathing rapidly and not eating.
<Bad signs... have you checked
their water quality?>
If they are eating I have not noticed, their
mouths are always open. They have been this way for at least 3-4 weeks.
So I assume they are getting some nutrition some how. They are the only
fish in tank.
55 gallon w/live rock(40 lbs.), some snails and
crabs.(5 each).
System components consist of the following:
Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Berlin Air-Lift 60
50 lbs crushed coral
Small Rio powerhead
Hydor Ario Turbo Air Pump (Ario 1) sitting in
live rock about 10 inch depth.
Tank parameters are: Ammonia 0,
nitrite 0, nitrate 10 or less and pH is 8.0 now, was 7.8 when this all
started. Water changes are 10% weekly. Currently in hospital tank
treated w/Methylene Blue per instruction of LFS. following box
instructions and fresh water dipping every other day. Today is third
day. Is there anything else I can do for Nemo and Marlin? Can you advise
me to what is wrong with them as everything I have read that maybe wrong
with them says they should not be alive this long? Is this the correct
treatment or is there something else I can do?
Thanks ahead of time,
Robert.
<Mmmm, in the (most likely scenario) that "something" is
wrong with their system/water itself, I would do a large water change
(50%), add a Polyfilter and/or activated carbon in their filter flow
path, and put the fish back in their main tank... I suspect some sort of
undisclosed poisoning here... maybe a source of metal... from... a
clamp? An ornament? Do look for staining on the substrate... Otherwise
the Polyfilter will likely "change color" on absorption of whatever is
present. Bob Fenner>
2 new clowns (great name for a rock band)
Hi, again, you guys were such a tremendous help last time, I figured I'd
bother you again. Tank: 50 gal. 65lbs live rock, 60lbs live sand, about
15 snails and hermit crabs mixed. It's a new tank ( 3 weeks ) but the
chemical levels are fine. Salinity 1.023-24. I put two clowns in 4
days ago and they were fine 'till this morning one of them seems to be
digging in the sand, lying listlessly, and sometimes just staying
suspended in mid water head up tail down is this normal? Should I rush
it to the fish hospital? SOS!!!
<Not normal... has this tank cycled?
I would be waiting a few more weeks before placing fish life here... Any
other place to take them out, put them in? Bob Fenner>
Re: 2 new
clowns
The tank has cycled, I used cured live-rock. I had high NH3/NH4
after a few days...
<Yikes... toxic>
...and that went way down
same for NO2/NO3 the pH is
8.2-8.4, high alkalinity...
<High?>
...I changed around 20% of the
water using di-H2O. Since the last E mail I wrote
that clown seems to be a little better but I think it's still sluggish,
I got really scared when it was acting weird yesterday when I sent the
original Email. BTW this is amazing! Professional advice, quick
responses, you guys are the best keep it up!!!
<Ah, good to hear it
sounds like your clown/s are rallying. Perhaps they were "just new". Bob
Fenner>
Black spots on clown fish Hello, how are you all today.
<Fine, thanks> I have a question about my clown fish. My tank is
a 20 gal, water is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 8.2 ph, 20ppm nitrate. This
tank is fairly new as it has only been setup for about 1 1/2 months.
I am new to saltwater. My clown fish is getting black spots on his
body. I have attached 2 photos. <One came through> <Nice
pix> Just wondering if you guys could tell me what is wrong with
him. The spots seem to look like there in the skin rather than on
it. Is this just color in the skin or is there a problem with him. I
never noticed these until yesterday and I do not believe they were
there before. Also I have only noticed this on my orange one there
is also a yellowish one in with this one. Thank you in advance for
your help. I have read many pages of faq from your website, and
thank you for posting so many helpful tips. Adam <Mmm, I do
agree with you... these tank-raised clowns often have such apparent
"blem.s"... and these spots come and go... with growth, age. I would
not be worried here. Bob Fenner> |

<Tank-raised clown - "domestication" can bring out otherwise
hidden traits, new markings.>
|
Mysterious bump, growth on a Maroon Clown
Hi, I have two Maroon
clowns which I acquired within about a month and a half ago. I have a 55
gallon fish only tank with green Chromis, Bar gobies, dragonet, crabs. I
noticed that a small bump resembling a white cyst was forming behind the
fishes left fin. It has been the same size for weeks and the fish seems
to be healthy. Do you have any idea what it might be?
<A tumorous
growth of some sort... virally mediated...>
It doesn't behave like
anything I have seen in the books. It doesn't seem to be spreading, it
just stays the same. The other fish are fine. See attached picture. I
was told a cleaner shrimp might be of use.
Thank You
Randy
<Might be... worth trying for sure. Bob Fenner>
- Clownfish
with Mouth Problems -
Hi
<Hi.>
My clown fish can't move his
mouth anymore.
<Interesting.>
To eat, he has to swim towards the
food and hopefully gets some. It's been about 4 days... happened after I
added a fish to my 44 aquarium.
<Was he attacked? This seems an odd
cause/effect if not.>
The store where I purchased him said he
probably has an iodine deficiency... When I did the search, it talked
about shrimp and not clown fish.
<Sounds like a red herring... never
heard of iodine deficiencies causing problems opening one's mouth... >
Can you help me please?
<I wish I could... there's not really a lot
one "can" do. I'd keep offering food. I do wonder if this is really a
problem with the fish's mouth, or just a general unwillingness to eat,
which seems a more typical response to new occupants. If this is a
hunger strike, then it will likely pass in a short time. If it is
aggression, then you'll need to deal with that as you see fit - remove
the aggressor or the victim to a separate system and consider your next
step. As a side issue, there's nothing wrong with supplementing iodide
in your system, but be very careful about the amounts you use... make
certain to follow the directions. You may also want to try adding some
fishy vitamins to the food you offer - Selcon or Boyd's VitaChem would
be suggested.>
Dianne
<Cheers, J -- >
-
Clownfish with Mouth Problems, Follow-up -
It's almost like he
has lock jaw!!!!
<Interesting.>
Mouth is always open... Maybe
someone hurt him.
<Would be my guess.>
I will print your response
for my husband, thank you for your help.
<My pleasure.>
Dianne
<Cheers, J -- >
- Clownfish with Mouth Problems, More
Follow-up -
Fish died this morning. Thank you for your help.
<Oh... am sorry to hear of your loss. Cheers, J -- >
Please
help me with my clown fishy
Hi there!
<Howdy>
I just
started my first salt water tank and I got two small clownfish and a
blue damsel. I have had the fish for about 3 weeks now. The first week
the two clown fish were fighting and I thought they were going to kill
each other, even though they came from the same tank.
<Happens...
new, likely smaller system... new social dynamic>
The next week all
was well but I noticed a couple of white bumps on the right side of one
of the clownfish's mouth (rouge). At first I thought it was some skin
that had been bitten from the other fish but then I noticed it looked
like little white heads.
I have read almost all your Q's & A's but I
still don't know what it is.
<Could be "nothing"... like "zits" of
humans... stress manifestation... though perhaps an indication of
something more sinister>
Another thing is both of the clown fish
hover around one of the pumps and constantly sprint to the top like they
want out. I have checked the water and everything is normal, and he eats
regularly. It is a 10 gallon tank and only has the 3 fish and a live
rock, shell, and a coral thing.
<... this tank is too small for these
fish... and the sprinting behavior worries me... I might suggest you
have the tank checked for "electrical leakage"...>
The two pumps are
under gravel filters with carbon cartridges. Does my clown fish have
fungus or some kind of disease?? And how do I cure it?
Thanks, Shana
<Shana... there is much, actually too much to relate to you here,
succinctly. I strongly encourage you to take the time and read through
ALL of our archives on Clownfishes... Please start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clownfis.htm and carefully read through
the linked files (at top), taking down notes... You need a larger
system... to use a meter, probe to ascertain if you have an electrical
short/ground problem... and to "figure out what you really want to
do"... get a larger system, trade these fish in... wait out and see if
there actually is a biological disease agent at play here... Bob Fenner>
- Clownfish Problems -
Hi
Not sure if you can help, but here
goes. I have had my marine tank for a few weeks now, and the clown
fish has been very happy and settled with the others for 4 weeks now,
but tonight it is obvious it is unwell. I have looked in the books
I have but cannot find anything with the same symptoms. It has become
very lethargic, eyes half closed as it can't stay awake, and is just
rolling over in circles on the bottom of the tank. As its too late to
phone anywhere, please have you some advice as to what to do to help?
<Things don't sound too good for your clown... it seems to me your tank
is very new. If I were you, I'd being doing some water tests to make
sure everything is normal; no ammonia or nitrites. If these are present,
your tank is actually not quite ready for fish and you'll need to wait
before adding any more. If no ammonia or nitrite are present, then I'd
execute a small water change and see if that improves things for your
clownfish.>
Thank you, Jenny
<Cheers, J -- >
- Clown
Missing Fins -
Hi, I've been looking around the site for some
help, but thought giving the complete situation might give some more
help: My roommate and I set up a saltwater tank and let it sit for about
a week (we were told that it would be ready in about that much time for
clownfish with the live sand to build up a bacterial field). However, we
were a bit impatient and neglected to test the water quality beyond
salinity and temperature, assuming that the others would be at zero
since nothing organic had been added (bad move I know). Our next mistake
was starting with two clownfish and a royal Gramma, introducing three
fish at once, as well as adding the water from the pet store. Our water
had a bit of a heart attack. This morning (we introduced the fish last
night) we changed 3 gallons (29 gallon tank) of the water, and added
more pH buffer. The stats are now as follows: salinity 1.021, ammonia 0,
pH 8.2, nitrites 0.25, and nitrates 10.
Now here's the main problem
-- one of the clownfish seemed less colorful and much less active. This
morning it was barely moving at all, seemed to be floundering, staying
near the walls and occasionally on its side or upside down under a rock.
After the water change it seemed to perk up, but it hasn't eaten, and we
noticed that it's missing both its pelvic fins -- and it's gone back to
lying on it's side. We recalled there was a Lemonpeel in the same tank
at the store also lying on its side. We're trying to figure out if we
can get this fish healthy, how to, and if it needs to be quarantined --
i.e., is it likely sick or behaving that way due to the lost fins?
<The behavior is quite likely from the accumulated stress of all of the
above.>
And will the fins grow back?
<They can... but honestly I
don't think this fish will get the chance... I'm not so sure it will
make it through the necessary steps to recover. If you want to give it a
go, do isolate this fish in a quarantine tank - don't worry about it
being cycled and just change 25% of the water every other day... don't
bother lighting the tank and just let this fish convalesce. If the fish
improves, starts eating again then keep it in quarantine for at least
two weeks and then consider letting it back into the main tank. You can
try some of the Boyd's VitaChem which seems to be really good speeding
the recovery of torn and lost fins.>
It looks as if they are
completely gone. Also, is there any quick way to reduce the
nitrite/nitrate levels in the tank quickly and are they toxic at these
levels?
<Water changes... that's your best ally now. Nitrites are
toxic, but at the levels you mention they're likely on the downturn.
With nitrates present, that means your cycle is near complete and the
nitrites should be gone soon.>
Thanks so much.
<Cheers, J -- >
Diseased Clownfish
Crew;
Have been up all night, and doesn't
look like sleep is coming any time soon. Just before I was about to go
to bed, I checked in on my tank. My clown (one of two) was going
ballistic! He had a whitish tinge to him, was swimming around on the
substrate (rubbing), and speeding around the tank with little regard for
what he was running into. I was concerned about a parasite infection. I
haven't added anything to my tank within the past month and a half or
so, though, and all of the other fish seem to be perfectly normal. To be
on the safe side, I gave the clown a freshwater bath, and quarantined
him. Now he seems to be perfectly fine. Any thoughts? I'm completely
lost on this one.
< Tom, it sounds to me like you took the bull by
the horn and did what was necessary. I'm sure the clown had a disease
according to your description. I would keep him in quarantine for at
least three weeks and keep an eye out for possible reinfestation. Good
luck. James (Salty Dog)>
Diseased Clownfish - II
Thanks
for such a quick reply, James. It's greatly appreciated even though it
confirms my original fears. Guess that's why I keep a 20 gal w/necessary
equipment in the closet, eh? Am going to have to keep an eye on both
tanks now, just to make sure that the other fish aren't going to be
affected by whatever little nasty(ies) seems to have invaded my tank.
Now I had just done the first dip with freshwater. Any thoughts on
whether or not I should follow up with a FW/Methylene blue combo, or
just stick with the straight FW?
<Tom, the Methylene will do nothing
for ich. I suggest you soak your food in Garlic Elixir or Selcon before
feeding. This really helps boost immune systems of the fish. Do another
FW dip if re-infestation occurs. Diet is very important in helping fish
fend off diseases. James (Salty Dog)>
Clownfish with one
injured eye
I have a 30g tank...50lbs of live rock 1 cleaner
shrimp, 3 snails, 5 hermit dwarf crabs, 2 watchman goby, and 2 clown
fish pair. I have a problem with one of my clown the female which is the
bigger one... her left eye has lost its color...you can only see her
black pupil and there is no longer any gold ring around that...now it
looks like a black pupil with a lil cloudiness and the gold ring is now
the same color orange as her body... her right eye is perfectly normal
in color... the other clown is perfectly well... my levels on my tank
are normal...I had made daily water changes but no improvements on her
eye...cut back on feeding still no changes and the rest of the fish seem
to be doing fine with no problem...what can it be? what should I do? if
there is a problem how should I treat it? Julio Thank
<Likely your
one Clown has a mechanical injury... a collision with something hard in
the system... and this should clear up in time on its own... Some things
can be done to speed up the process... adding vitamin supplements or
soaking foods in the same best of all. Bob Fenner>
Re:
Clownfish with one injured eye
what name brand do you think would
be the best?...when I get the vitamins do I put it in the tank water
directly or should I catch her a put her in a hospital tank to treat her
by herself?...thank you for getting back to me!
<See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/vitaminmarfaqs.htm and leave the
fish in the present system. Bob Fenner>
Clownfish injury
Hi. Hope everyone had a great start in the new
year.
I have a 46 gallon saltwater fish tank with some liverock. All
readings are fine.
<Mighty fine!>
Stock is one ocellaris clown,
5 Chromis, one yellow clown goby and one watchman goby.
I had
originally obtained two ocellaris, of which one died after a couple of
days (LFS told me it was clownfish disease). Anyway, this has been two
months ago and the other ocellaris is fine, very active, and also
feeding great.
<Assuredly NOT Brooklynellosis... otherwise both fish
would have succumbed>
About two weeks ago we noticed that the
clownfish had gotten himself stuck in a small tight jar like decoration
on the sand floor. While keeping him in the water I tried several times
to pull him out by the tail. To no avail. We had to crush the small clay
jar gently while he was still stuck. After that incident, he did not eat
for about a week, but now is doing great again.
My question is this:
I have noticed a raised white spot on one of his sides closer toward the
tail region. It looks like one giant ick spot and sticks out a good
millimeter or two. He is still active, feeds well, no scratching, no
flashing of any kind. Is there something I can do? Do you know what
could be wrong with the clown?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
D.B.
<An "owee". Not to worry. Bob Fenner>