|
| |
|
FAQs about Elegance Coral Selection
Back to Articles on: Catalaphyllia Coral,
Caryophylliids,
Large Polyp Stony Corals
Related FAQs: Elegance Corals,
Elegance Corals 2, Elegance
Coral Identification, Elegance Coral Behavior,
Elegance Coral Behavior,
Elegance Coral Selection,
Elegance Coral Compatibility,
Elegance Coral Selection,
Elegance Coral Systems,
Elegance Coral Feeding,
Elegance Coral Disease/Pests,
Elegance Coral Reproduction,
Caryophyllid
ID, Caryophyllid Compatibility,
Caryophyllid Systems,
Caryophyllid Selection, Caryophyllid Behavior,
Caryophyllid Feeding,
Caryophyllid Disease, Caryophyllid
Propagation/Reproduction, Stony/True Coral,
Coral System Set-Up, Coral
System Lighting, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral
Placement, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior,
Best to start small/er... as with most corals. |
 |
Catalaphyllia jardinei hardiness - Adult
vs. Juvenile stages? 07/20/2008
Dear WWM Crew,
<Trent>
I've read somewhere (not sure where, I've tried and failed to find the
reference) that it's thought that this species of coral has at least two nearly
indistinguishable life stages: a cone-shaped juvenile stage where it lives
detached from the reef in deeper waters (20m) and an adult stage where it's
brought by currents to grow attached to the reef in shallower waters.
<Mmm, actually, the morphology is a function of two principal different
collection types... a more shallow, mucky population being distinctly more
wedge-shaped, the deeper water ones (same species) less so... among other
differences... importantly here/to hobbyists; relative survivability of
specimens... the shallow water being much more hardy>
This source pretty much agrees with the husbandry of the coral suggested in Bob
Fenner's article 'Catalaphyllia; What’s Wrong With Your Elegance Coral, Family
Caryophylliidae' (low-moderate diffuse light, higher nutrient levels,
low-moderate water flow, horizontal placement, etc). However, the source claims
that the 'adult' form is hardier than the 'juvenile' form and the two forms can
be easily distinguished because the adult's calcareous skeleton will have
obvious damage incurred during its breaking from the rest of the reef by the
harvester.
<Mmm... better to seek out specimens that are entire/whole... not sections that
have been broken from a larger/parent>
Evidence suggesting that this may contain some truth can be found at
www.liveaquaria.com. On this site they offer this coral from 'eastern Asia' and
'Australia.' The skeleton of the form off Asia is undamaged because it lived
detached from the reef, but the form found off Australia has damage to its
skeleton because it had to be broken from the reef.
<Really... want to emphasize to hobbyists that the "free" phaceloid specimens of
this species are MUCH more suitable for their use, purchase than pieces of
attached colonies that have been broken off... Is this clear?>
They claim that the 'Aussie' coral is hardier than the other (which is reflected
in its price) and that the damage to the skeleton will not be detrimental to the
living animals.
<Mmmm>
What's your take on this juvenile v. adult theory?
<Is bunk... not an age difference at all, but habitat, developmental. Attached
colonies (similar to Goniopora... stokesi if you will) may be "older" but not
necessarily... they are less appropriate (survival wise) likely due to damage in
collection mostly>
It seems to me that this would agree with the history of success of these
animals being kept in aquariums. About a decade ago this coral was generally
considered very hardy, but as time went on (and the depth at which these animals
were harvested grew deeper due to limited supply) hobbyists tended to think the
coral was becoming more difficult to maintain. It would seem that the hardier
'adults' were all harvested at the shallower depths and the harvesters were now
going for the more delicate 'juveniles' at greater depths.
<The historical data is such...>
Last questions: I'm planning a species-specific aquarium for this coral and I
was wondering, would a 70W MH be too strong/concentrated for these animals if
the tank's depth is only 17in? Would a couple of PCLs be better?
<Mmm, either could be made to work... adaptation of the specimen to either is
encouraged... with shading...>
How much (lbs/gallon) live rock would you recommend?
<As much as is reasonable, looks nice to you... Again, I would not be fastidious
re nutrient levels per se, would use a good deal of very fine material, mud...>
The tank I have is, for some reason, called a 95 wide at 48inX24inX17in, but its
actual volume is closer to 85 gallons.
Trent W.
P.S. - I just ordered the new edition of the 'Conscientious Marine Aquarist' and
I can't wait to read it.
<I do hope/trust you will enjoy this second ed.. Bob Fenner>
Catalaphyllia jardinei, Austr.
avail. in S. Africa... 2/22/08
Hi Crew,
I have been reading on a few sites that Catalaphyllia jardinei from Australia
are available in the U.S.
<Yes>
How can we in South Africa get this beautiful coral?
<I don't know... but do know who I would ask next... the South African Reefers
club that way. Are you familiar with the group? Seem to be a fine group of
earnest, friendly folk: www.marineaquariumsa.com
I'd post there re this issue>
I am sure Bob Fenner and Anthony Calfo can provide us more information.
thanks
Mohamed
<BobF, who knows naught re the trade there.>
Elegance coral ?? 12/7/2007
HI Bob!
<Sara M. here.>
In a forum, someone was saying how great a store's elegance corals were. I said,
well I bought one there and it was supposedly from a good source and would not
die. Took 6 months, but it did. Went against every fiber of my being to BUY it,
but my corals never die on me. So I figured I would give it a shot. I did
everything you are supposed to do and YES my tank always has 20 to 30 nitrates
(no phosphates and my sps even grows!.... they are at the top of course) Anyhow,
I was rebutted when I mentioned the coral was 7" long. The person said, oh well,
the corals from Australia are smaller and are better.
<Australian Elegance corals are "better" (less prone to Elegance Coral Disease
than Indo-Pacific ones (this is so, at least in more recent years).>
Correct me if I am wrong, but Australia TYPICALLY will NOT export young fish or
corals, right?
<Umm, this depends on what you mean by "typically." They don't export the way
the does, but they do export some corals and fish.>
I mean basically this person is trying to defend the store owner and I said, hey
I don't blame the store owner. Bob, I just don't KNOW if I am being fed a line
of c*ap about how they are smaller from Australia.
<Bob and I are sitting here in Kona chatting about this right now. And, sorry to
say, I'm going to have to give you the classic law school student answer to
every question..."um, maybe." It's certainly possible that this coral you were
sold is from Australia. It's also quite possible it's not. As for relative sizes
of corals from different parts of the world... this might be the case all over
(not just from Australia). However, please don't assume that this person you
talked to (or the store owner) is lying to you. He/she might not be lying. Or,
the lie (if there is a lie) might not have started with them. They might have
been lied to by the distributor, or the distributor lied to by yet someone else
up the line. In any case, Bob thinks that if your elegance coral really was from
Australia, it would have been very expensive!
Best,
Sara M.> Elegance Coral sel. 12/21/06
Hi crew,
<Hello Mohamed, Mich here.>
A LFS has a few purple tip Elegance Coral for about 4 weeks.
<A very beautiful coral.>
How long should one wait until purchasing an elegance coral from a LFS knowing
that it will do well if kept for X days at the LFS?
<There is no absolute here, too many variables to consider. In most cases,
longer is better, but there are always exceptions to the rule. I think if the
Elegance Coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei) has been at the LFS for 4 weeks and it
is expanded and looking good it should be in decent health. Just make sure you
are aware of the care requirements needed by any species for which you assume
responsibility. This coral prefers a soft sand bed and less water flow than
most.
Thanks
<You're welcome. -Mich>
Mohamed
Elegance corals and substrate 8/31/05
Hi my trusted masters,
<Hello my dearest Bernard>
The substrate of my tank is about 2 inches of crushed coral (Florida Crushed
Coral, 2-5mm grain size). I love to add Elegance Coral to my collection, but I
am worry about damaging its underside because my substrate is not soft
enough. Do you think the worry is unwarranted? Similar concern applies to
Nassarius snails and other sand-bottom dwellers, assuming I have good water
parameters, do you think they can live in my coarse substrate?
I have a 46g tank with 50+ lb of live rock, PH 8.0-8.3, Temp 80, Ammonia 0,
Nitrite 0, Nitrate < 5, Calcium 400, dKH 10. I do bi-weekly 5% water change. I
Have two Ocellaris Clowns, 3 Yellow-tail Damsels, 2 Cleaner Shrimp, 4 Turbo
Snails, many small Hermit Crabs, all seem very happy. Thank you very much for
your help.
Bernard
<Substrate is not a crucial factor with these corals, however and this is a big
however - be warned that the elegance corals of today unfortunately do not hold
the same almost indestructible and bullet-proof status of several years back.
Seemingly healthy elegance corals, suddenly begin to shrivel down in size within
a few weeks to several months in captivity and ultimately meet their demise.
Research is currently being conducted as to why these corals are all of a sudden
dying in our aquariums. Many believe poor handling/shipping techniques and/or
new collection environments/regions are to blame. Either way, I would avoid this
particular species unless you are able to find a cultured one from a fellow
hobbyist/friend. - Ali>
Selecting elegance coral
Hello Steven and all. Happy holidays! Here is my situation, I want an Elegance
coral soooo bad, its pretty much that one coral I based my hobby on. I had two
of them in the past and they both failed me.
<Quite typical>
I've read all sorts of things about them including what you guys have to say
about their poor survival. I am thinking the only way to get one is from someone
who has had one for several years and wants to sell it. Fat chance I know.
<I would say slim chance. I just propagated mine about a month ago and sold
it to another local hobbyist at a frag swap. I would look to a local aquarium
society and see if anyone there has one to get a piece from.>
I recently went to a place called Living Sea in Chicago and they had two of the
most beautiful Elegance's I have ever seen. On top of that they were huge, at
least 6" across. Anyhow, they looked very healthy and the owner is familiar
with their mortality rate. He said they have been at his store in his tanks for
about 2 weeks now and that if they were going to get the disease that they would
have had it by know.
<I do not subscribe to the theory put forth by Julian Sprung about Elegance
corals succumbing to some mysterious infection. I believe the problems to come
down to a difference in the variety of Elegant corals collected now and the
artificial environments we subject them to. The typical purple tip, Indonesian
Catalaphyllia jardinei is found in muddy substrate from deep water. Placement
upon liverock under intense illumination kill an incredible number of these
animals.>
I'm wondering if that is a good sign for their survival or not?
<I don't know his tank conditions, but two weeks is not a really long
time.>
He also said that he gets his corals shipped directly to him and that they are
not put into a holding tank of some wholesaler, (I do believe him on that)
<I believe him too about transshipping. A lot of stores do this, but again I
don't believe the problem to be a disease.>
but he said that is where a lot of the disease sets in on these corals, because
of poor conditions, etc. What do you think of that as far as this coral
surviving for me?
<Do look at the holding conditions in his tanks. If the coral has been placed
on rockwork or under heavy illumination, I would leave it at the store.>
It is quite pricey and I've already had 2 of them, but am I crazy to think about
getting it? I was even thinking about waiting maybe another 2 or 3 weeks to see
then how these corals look then, and if they still look good would you take a
chance on getting one of them?
<If they lived a month, I would assume his conditions to be appropriate.>
Thanks a lot.
<Do take a look at the writings of Eric Borneman concerning this coral, its
collection, and proper handling. His articles can be found on Reef Keeping (an
online magazine). I would also look for any of the meandering wall variety.
There are two varieties collected, one that grows attached to the reef and has a
skeleton similar to a regular Hammer Coral (Euphyllia ancora). The other type is
a free living form that has a skeleton similar to that of the Open Brain (Trachyphyllia
geoffroyi). The attached forms seem to do much better for hobbyists. -Steven
Pro>
Corals
I have a 29 gallon eclipse reef tank that has been set up for a year or
so. I have live rock at least 1/2 way to the top, which is about 90%
covered w/coralline algae. My water has always tested extremely well. I
have a colt coral, green star polyps, and a mushroom which are all doing
good. I want to add an elegant coral but not sure if it will do well,
I've been told yes and no. I have 2 lights in the tank, a white and a
blue, and I will be placing the coral at the highest place atop the live
rock. It would be approx 12-14 inches from lights and have good current.
What do you think?
>>
These are beautiful animals, but in recent years, ones with dismal survival records... the species really does not live in the type of setting you describe... Might I encourage you to consider a Euphyllia (like Anchor, Frogspawn...) Coral of the same family (Caryophylliidae) instead?
If not, please take a look at my article on the Elegance, Catalaphyllia jardinei posted at www.wetwebmedia.com for more complete information.
Bob Fenner
| |
|