Australian Lineatus
Crew,
<Hi there>
I didn't notice this species anywhere on your website
<Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/cirrhilabrus/index.htm
the folks at Marine Depot have this Fairy Wrasse species name misspelled... there is but one "n"... pls see it on fishbase.org>
but wondered if you knew anything about this fish. It looks very pretty and fairly reef safe (http://www.marinedepotlive.com/auliwrli.html).
<Is... the whole genus>
In addition, I keep my reef between 80F and 81.8F with Heaters and Chillers and haven't had a problem for 2yrs.... would that be a problem for this Wrasse?
<Nope, not likely. Just make sure you keep the whole top covered... very good jumpers. Bob Fenner>
Christopher Slabe

Peppermint shrimp, Aiptasia & fairy wrasses 11/17/03
Dear Anthony:
<cheers, Connie>
Maybe I missed something here, but my understanding is that the shrimp eat the Aiptasia.  
<you are correct. L. wurdemanni does eat anemones... but it is not exclusive and often nips corals and clams just the same. Not exactly reef-safe in the long run>
We are getting a substantial amount of Aiptasia, really too much to inject it all (and it seems to spread like crazy).  
<its better to control the nutrients/problem (overfeeding, messy feeding/weak water flow, etc) than treat the symptom (the Aiptasia)>
So we got several shrimp.  I can only find one now and he is larger than the others.
<hard to say... they are somewhat secretive... perhaps others are still alive?>
Question:  Are my wrasses shrimp-eaters???  
<if large enough... most are>
They are all small but hungry fish.  I'm afraid I'll ruin my live rock with continuous injections of white vinegar (out of the tank, then rock scrubbed, have been using tap water for this)
Another question:  My husband ordered two Laboutei Fairy Wrasses for me as a gift. On the first shipment, female survived acclimation fine, male died.  Second shipment, another male died.  Before I order another male, is there something over and above the ordinary acclimation for these fish.  
<they are simply just very sensitive fishes to ship. I rarely recommend mail ordering fishes... and I would almost never do so for wrasses>>
Now that I have the female I would really like the male.  I had two gorgeous rosy finned fairy wrasse and the handsome male jumped out of the tank about a month ago.  They are almost impossible to get. Marine Center tells me that the  Laboutei doesn't travel too well.  
<correct indeed>
Please help me Anthony. Ciao Connie
<my advice is to pay the extra for a local retailer to order and acclimate one for a week... well worth it rather than killing cheaper mail order ones <G>.>
PS:  Can't seem to get in touch with person doing arrangements for your visit to Palo Alto in February.  Do you have a phone number for her?
<I do... but I should check with her before sharing it. In the meantime... I recently learned that the tentative schedule is for a trip to Monterey Friday, Meeting Saturday, and then social pot-luck meal/gathering at Cheri's house on Sunday. I'm hoping she'll have something posted on the SeaBay website soon too. Do holler back at me if you don't hear something first :) kindly, Anthony>

Reef Safe Wrasses! (6/25/03)
Hello.  What is a good reef safe wrasse for a 30g tank?  <Many of the fairy wrasses would be fine, one of my favorites is the Scott's fairy wrasse.  Cody>

Fairy Wrasses and Books
Hi Anthony,
<Cheers, dear>
Anthony Calfo...... You wouldn't happen to have any Italian blood running through your veins now would you?
<was it my middle name that gave it away (Rosario)? ;) >
Thanks so much. I will keep my eye on these 2 and hopefully they will work it out.
<yes... wrasses are quirky little creatures in so many ways (shipping, gender roles, feeding, etc). Lets give them some more time>
Where might I find the info on your shamelessly :) plugged books and preordering. I am interested in anything you all write.
<heehee... thanks kindly. Bob's Conscientious Marine Aquarist is one of the single best texts for marine aquarists that I have ever read. My Book of Coral Propagation is really a comprehensive reefkeeping book. Both are available at the big mail order portals (Custom Aquatics, Amazon.com, etc). If you wanted personally inscribed copies for any strange reason :p you can get Bob's at Di's Aquatics (http://www.disaquatics.com) and my book at www.readingtrees.com Pre-orders for our next book being this month and we'll have a link and informational pages up soon. I will be sure to drop you a line when that info is available from our webmaster>
Cheers, Leslie
<with kind regards, Anthony>

Scott's Fairy Wrasse with infection
I have Scott's Fairy Wrasse with a huge swollen blister or growth on the bottom of his lip. His color has dulled and his top yellow fins are darkening. I have been reading about diseases and I think this is a bacteria. 
<I would agree that this is likely>
Please let me know what you think and what kind of antibiotic could I treat it with. Thanks.
<A Furazolidone and Nitrofurazone cocktail (like Jungle brand "Fungus Eliminator" at double strength in a bare bottomed QT tank). Medicate three times in 5 days minimum. Also feeding medicated food if the fish will take it would be nice. You may also do a topical swab of the lip (Q-tip carefully... avoid the eyes and gills) when moving the fish to the QT. Iodine or Mercurochrome will work fine (as with people). dilute slightly. Leave in QT for 2-4 weeks (4 preferably) Best regards, Anthony>
Carmina Perez

Cirrhilabrus - Paracheilinus
Hello, Mr. Fenner,
I am so happy that you have kindly replied to me!
It is good to hear you will help me with your great
photographs and many thanks.
<A pleasure and honor my friend>
First of all, I show where the photo of the new
Pseudojuloides is shown.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pseudojuloides_wrasses.htm
<Ah, thank you, doomo ariigato>
This is Pseudojuloides severnsi Bellwood & Randall, 2000.
It is seen in Indonesia, southern Japan (Izu Islands to Okinawa)
and the Philippines.
<Chat with you soon. Bob Fenner>

Re: Fairy and Flasher Wrasses book.
> <Sounds very good. Are you familiar with the ten volume series
> Rudie Kuiter and Helmut Debelius are producing through Tropic
> Marine Centre:::
Yes, I have the two. Rudi's wrasse book volume 1 will be out
this autumn. Butterflyfishes (by Rudie) will follow. Actually
a book on Dottybacks by Anthony C. Gill and me is planned to
be published next year. Angelfishes (by Rudie & me or Helmut &
me) will be in 2004. I have written Centropyge, Paracentropyge,
and Genicanthus. Just started Chaetodontoplus.
> 1 Cirrhilabrus part.
> It comprises 40 species at present and one would be added
> so soon; it is from Coral Sea and will be described by Randall
> and Nagareda. C. solorensis is a valid one now.
> <Yes, saw this in a paper this last week>
Already have you seen the new Cirrhilabrus on paper? It is
good. I will ask Bronson Nagareda in Florida. Jack is now in
New Britain.
> photo of C. blatteus shown there? Yours?
> <Yes>
> It is very good. I hope to get such photographs in my book.
> <You are welcome to use my photographs my friend. Let me
> know what sort of output/scans I can supply you. Most all
> current ones are 300 dpi tiffs, at 2.3 megs each>
Wow!!! It is very good! You are so kind; it seems so hard to get
more photos of this species, and actually Dr. Ewald Lieske just
informed me that he could not have seen it finally.
> Also the shot of C. exquisitus from Fiji is great. I have only one
> from there by Rudie and yours is so nice. Rudie may divide
C. exquisitus into two or three ones in the future.
My machine is Windows 95 and JPEG is the best in style.
Could you send me more photos of these species if you are OK?
Around 300-400 KB seems better.
> The female shown as P. carpenteri seems a member of Cirrhilabrus; I
cannot tell it exactly, an interesting fish.
> <Really? Honto des? Will check>
Yes, probably Cirrhilabrus. I hope to get the photo of the
'Cirrhilabrus', too. Other photos, too?
> I hope to exchange photos I have if you like; some of the photos
> are taken by my friends. I can send C. aurantidorsalis, flavidorsalis,
> tonozukai, etc. soon.
> <Ahh, great>
I will send you the list of all the species of three genera, including
Conniella with over 200 photos (sorry for photocopies) soon.
It is the base for my CCP book. Then I can send some slides of
C. aurantidorsalis, etc. Well, where would I send them?
Thank you again and keep up nice work!
Best Wishes,
Hiroyuki

Re: Cirrhilabrus - Paracheilinus
Hi,
Many thanks again.
I would send the photos with the list next Monday,
so please let me know your mailing address. I hope
you to see them soon; photos for each species are
included. Thank you.
<Our address: 8586 Menkar Rd., San Diego, CA 92126, USA. I will in turn send you my present scans (and new ones as they're made) of the genera you're writing about. Bob Fenner>
Best Wishes,
Hiroyuki

List sending
Dear Robert,
Thanks again.
Yes, I can send the list with some photos TODAY.
I am greatly looking forward to seeing your photos.
<Will burn a CD and send on. Bob Fenner>
With Best Wishes,
Hiroyuki

Re: List sending
Dear Bob,
I sent the list and some photographs this morning.
Please be 'surprised' at the many photos sent by
various friends on the list. Keep me informed.
<Will do so my friend. Bob Fenner>
Best Wishes,
Hiroyuki

Cirrhilabrus-fan
Dear Mr. Bob Fenner,
<Yosh!>
My name is Hiroyuki Tanaka, a long-time marine aquarist.
<Pleased to meet you>
I saw your web for the first time and I was impressed with the
part of photos and comments for Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus.
That are one of my most favorites. I actually am writing a book
on three genera including these with Conniella. Then I now have
over 600 photos of every species, including the undescribed
sent by many friends all over the world. I hope that the book
would be out in 2004-5.
<Sounds very good. Are you familiar with the ten volume series Rudie Kuiter and Helmut Debelius are producing through Tropic Marine Centre... a couple are to cover the popular labrid genera. You can get an idea of what these might be/cover here: www.tmc-ltd.co.uk>
Well let me correct and add some things in the web.
1 Cirrhilabrus part.
It comprises 40 species at present and one would be added
so soon; it is from Coral Sea and will be described by Randall
and Nagareda. C. solorensis is a valid one now.
<Yes, saw this in a paper this last week>
C. filamentosus photo is shown in your C. rubriventralis part,
on the right photo.
<Thank you for this correction>
Photo of C. cyanopleura is shown as C. rubripinnis.
<And this one!>
Who took photo of C. blatteus shown there? Yours? 
<Yes>
It is very
good. I hope to get such photographs in my book. 
<You are welcome to use my photographs my friend. Let me know what sort of output/scans I can supply you. Most all current ones are 300 dpi tiffs, at 2.3 megs each>
It is one of
the rarest seen by ordinary divers. Jack, Rudie and Helmut
have some shots but if you are OK I hope to borrow this excellent
one.
<You're welcome to it>
Also the shot of C. exquisitus from Fiji is great. I have only one
from there by Rudie and yours is so nice.
2 Paracheilinus part
13 species is recognized at present.
Genus Paracheilinus
A angulatus Randall & Lubbock,1981 Philippines, n. Indonesia
Royal Flasher Wrasse, Angular FW
B attenuatus Randall,1999 Seychelles, Kenya coast
Attenuate FW, Seychelles FW
C bellae Randall,1988 Marshalls, Palau
Bell's FW
D carpenteri Randall & Lubbock,1981 s. Japan to W. Pacific
Carpenter's FW
E cyaneus Kuiter & Allen,1999 Sulawesi
Blue FW
F filamentosus Allen,1974 Indonesia, Philippines, Solomon's,
Okinawa, Palau
Filamented FW
G flavianalis Kuiter & Allen,1999 Indonesia, w. Australia
Yellowfin FW
H hemitaeniatus Randall & Harmelin-Vivien,1977 s.w. Ind. Ocean
Halfbanded FW, Madagascar FW
I lineopunctatus Randall & Lubbock,1981 Philippines, n. Ind-
onesia
Line-spot FW
J mccoskeri Randall & Harmelin-Vivien,1977 Ind. Ocean, Ind-
onesia?, Fiji?
McCosker's FW
K octotaenia Fourmanoir,1955 Red Sea
Eightline FW
L piscilineatus (Cornic,1987) w. Mauritius
Elegant FW, Fairy FW
M togeanensis Kuiter & Allen,1999 Lembeh Str.
Togean FW
'P. dispilus' is really not a member of Paracheilinus.
The female shown as P. carpenteri seems a member of Cirrhilabrus; I cannot tell it exactly, an interesting fish.
<Really? Honto des? Will check>
I hope to exchange photos I have if you like; some of the photos
are taken by my friends. I can send C. aurantidorsalis, flavidorsalis,
tonozukai, etc. soon.
<Ahh, great>
I hope you to reply to my inquiry, and I will greatly appreciate you
when you kindly send me photos.
<Will do so. Again, please make it known if the current scan size, type is okay. Bob Fenner>
Best Wishes,
Hiroyuki
Hiroyuki Tanaka, medical doctor
(CCP-Laboratory)
Director of Jinguh Clinic
(address)
2-2-79 Jinguh
Miyazaki, Miyazaki 880
JAPAN
e-mail: h-tanaka@mnet.ne.jp
Fax: (Int'l: +81) 985-25-1996
essayist for Fish Magazine (Jack Fruits &
Rich Flavors from Hawai'i, Marine Topics)
has contributed to Marine Aquarist,
Tropical Fish Hobbyist, Tropical Marine
Aquarium, Salt & Sea, Marine Diving, etc.
minor adviser for http://www.coralrealm.com/
contributor: http://www.actwin.com/fish/species/index.php?t=2f=2

Latin pronunciation
Cirrhilabrus luteovittatus
<Sear like in searing a steak, hi as in "ha", la as in la dee dah, brus as in brusque, lu as in lewd and lascivious, te as in tea for two, oh as in "oh" you caught me, vit as in the letter "v" and quit, ta as in "tah dah", tus as in your fave tus'kfish. B>
How is it pronounced?
Cheers,
J --

Pale patch on wrasse and sick polyps
Hi WWM Crew, my wrasse's caudal peduncle seems to have faded on both sides and lost it's pink coloration normal of a Lubbock's fairy wrasse. The spot is not white (typical of a parasite infection), but clear, and looks like it has lost pigment. 
<symmetrical changes in color indeed usually are not pathogenic indications alone>
There is also a place on the pale patch where it looks raised in places, almost like the skin has peeled up. 
<Hmmm... do look at pictures of fishes in the archives and beyond with "dropsy" like symptoms (bacterial)... a possibility here.>
I've had the wrasse for about 6 months, and this condition has been here for about 3 weeks. I don't know if this helps, but ever since I have had the fish there has been a very small red cut or scar that has never fully healed. This scar is right next to the fading patch of skin. 
<ahhh... indeed an easy entrance for bacteria... do look hard. Consider QT with broad spectrum antibiotics (Furan/Nitrofuran drugs possibly... no Maracyn please for this)>
The only other fish, a cherub angel, is healthy as usual. All invertebrates are doing well (snails, GSP, mushrooms, shrimps, crabs, brittle stars), with the exception of a colony of button polyps that are succumbing to some unknown infection (They are also fading in patches and shriveling up one by one). Have you ever heard of a condition like this? 
<ironically may be bacterial as well... but certainly unrelated>
Should I be worried? Any way to reverse it? 
<take out and scrub with a soft bristled brush like a toothbrush... rinse (discard water) and return to tank with stronger water flow. Feed weekly if they are larger polyps (Palythoa or Protopalythoa species). Perhaps a little iodine in the tank if you have been lax>
Thanks for any help!
<best regards, Anthony>

Female Flame Wrasse??
Hi Bob, I hope all is well with you and look forward to seeing you & your wife next time you are in the Los Angeles area. I hope that you are going to speak at our club again this year.
<Anthony Calfo in your service my friend.. while the Fenner's are away>
Could you please tell me if this is a female flame wrasse? I have not been able to locate any photos of females. I put this fish and one that I know is a brightly colored male together in my 29 gallon q-tank for a month. The male did not harness this fish, however, this fish became shy & retiring once I put the male fish in (maybe I have 2 males??).
<exactly my suspicion. Although the picture is not so clear for certainty... it is not uncommon for lesser males to not express full color in the company of a dominant male.>
Anyway, I moved the male to the main display tank and would like to move this fish as well. If it is a female, will they do better together in the larger (225 gallon) tank?? 
<likely indeed>
Or, if this one is a female, should I keep it separated from the male???
Or, do I have 2 males?? Thanks for all your input, Joyce
<it is such an agreeable fish by nature that they are likely to do well regardless in the bigger tank. Do observe them where they are at now and gauge their behavior. Little or no aggression within the first week is a very good sign. Kindly, Anthony>

Got my Lubbock's!
<<Hi, JasonC here, filling in for Bob while he's off diving>>
I bought my Lubbock's fairy wrasse on Saturday and added him with my Centropyge argi. (I know, I should have quarantined but I'm only planning on two fish and I wait until I know the fish has been at the LFS for a while). <<well, then you also know you can expect to have two fish to treat when something turns up>> Turned the lights off afterwards and the wrasse hid all night. Sunday morning he was ready to come out, the aggression was limited to a 2 second chase. He ate that morning and is eating now like he's been established forever. Thanks for the info before on helping me choose the right fish out of that list. Everything's going very well.
<<Best of luck. J -- >>

Wrasse Disease
Gentlemen:
<Good, sir. Anthony Calfo in your service>
I have a painted fairy wrasse amongst the 10 inhabitants of my 125G FOWLR tank. All water parameters are OK. Only recently have I noticed that the
animal is not eating and is having difficulty closing his mouth. It seems
that his breathing may be labored. I see nothing physically wrong as far as
spots or markings. I have tried feeding both krill and silversides with no
success
<does the fish do any scratching/glancing... and are both gills pumping similarly or is one gill favored or closed?>
Since this animal buries himself at night, I am wondering if there are any
problems with my substrate. I say this because about 1 year ago, I had a
Christmas wrasse that developed a discoloration on his lip that precluded
him from eating as well. The Xmas wrasse also buried himself at night.
<hmmmm... how long have you had the wrasse, and what are your exact water quality parameters?>
I would appreciate your input and suggestions in an effort to save the
painted wrasse. I would hate to lose him, as he is a beautiful specimen.
<yes, a magnificent fish. Do you have a quarantine tank to use if necessary?>
Thanks, Mitch
<kindly, Anthony>

New Cirrhilabrus sp.
It was taken by my Aust supplier who actually caught these 5 specimens. I
knew that you of all people would appreciate it. He offered it to me for $250
FOB AUS!!! I chickened out and passed on
it....................................
<Rob... the Australian dollar is trading at about two to one... I would have taken a dozen or so at this price! Bob Fenner>

Re: New Cirrhilabrus sp.
Not Aust $'s - US!!
<Yikes! Getting pricey net landed cost! Still, if this were Japan... Bob F>

Re: Hey Bob ;) (missing wrasse)
Cirrhilabrus scottorum (Scott's Fairy Wrasse )
OK, I left town for three days and when I returned, he was GONE!!!!!!!!!!!!
There was no ammonia spike, he is not in the overflow and all parameters are
sound. I have been back for 5 days and still no sign of him. All parameters
perfect. My LFS guy suggests that he could be "burrowing" for a few days or
more. . .
<Could be burrowing... more likely jumped out... do you have a cat/burglar? Bob Fenner>
Any ideas??
Thanks, my friend
Rich

Flame Wrasse
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Hi there>
How are you? Hope all is well. I hope you can answer a few questions I have
regarding my recently purchased male Flame Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus jordani). 
<One of my favorite species of a very favored genus: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cirrhilabrus.htm
my coverage and the FAQs beyond... where your message will be archived.>
He resides in my 90 gal. reef aquarium. The Flame Wrasse is eating well, and
getting along great with the other inhabitants (Purple and Yellow Tang). I
was wondering if it is necessary/beneficial to have a harem for him ¦in terms
of psychological and/or physiological? 
<Mmm, no. If anything, in a tank of this size, you might try a single female>
Will the intense coloration remain
the same or fade without the company of females? 
<Would be better with a female present>
I am inclined to add
two/three females for him€¦what is a reasonable number, given the space
availability.
<Exactly... the space is too small for any but one other (female) individual. More females here would too likely lead to more troubles than having none. Bob Fenner>
Regards,
Dan

Fairy wrasse
Hi Bob, it's me again. I just recently emailed you about that HUFA and fish aggression question. Anyways, I finally found a store, which is willing to make a trade for my red lip blenny. Of course I'll probably have to pay some too. I looking for info on the Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis fairy wrasse. The FAQs don't have any questions about them. I'm asking because they are the only affordable fairy wrasses, and they are just as pretty as most others. How do they do as lone males? 
<Fine, but won't be, stay as colorful as if female/s were about... Bob Fenner.>
Do they need the females with them to do well? Thanks for your help.

Cirrhilabrus scottorum Identity crisis
Bob,
I have 2 Cirrhilabrus scottorum - Scott's Fairy Wrasse and have run into the
almost complete loss of color problem. I originally bought 2 so that 1 would
change to the female coloring and maybe give me a shot at keeping the male
coloring. Well there was absolutely no fighting for dominance. The larger of
the 2 stayed with his male coloring and the other smaller one (about 1/2 the
size) started changing almost immediately.
Now we are a couple months down the road and the dominant male has slowly
lost his coloring and now is nearly the color pattern of a female. I guess
the transition was too easy and he feels no need to display his
dominance???? 
<Mmm... not likely. More likely genetic, nutritional...>
Actually he less striking than the female. He doesn't have
as much of a purple hue to him, just VERY dark. I can still make out a
little of the red square on his side.
<This species does show tremendous variation by "region". Please take a look at these thumbnails on fishbase.org: http://www.fishbase.org/Photos/ThumbnailsSummary.cfm?ID=12728
or key the scientific name in on a search if this won't come up.>
I feed almost every form of frozen food available, so can't think of
anything on the nutrition front. However I do not soak the food in any
vitamins, etc. Have never been a big fan of this.
<I am, and encourage you to become a fan... Vitamins do work... for health, color, life... for your livestock... and you!>
Simple question, has anyone kept a Scott's coloring long term?? 
<Yes>
What did
you/they do, and any suggestions on changing the sex of one of my Scott's
back to male. Thanks for the help.
Regards,
Brad Johnson
<Do use a liquid vitamin and iodide prep. on this and your other fish's foods for a few weeks, once a week directly in the water. Bob Fenner>

RE: Cirrhilabrus scottorum Identity crisis
Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply. On detailed close inspection, the purple hue is
much more evident than I had originally thought. However the red square is
still slightly there.
<Ah! Perhaps this individual is still "changing" quite a bit>
Looked at your pics and they don't really match. Mine originally looked
more like:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WrassePix/Cirrhilabrus/Cirrlabrus%20scottorumAQ3.
jpg
I had some Zoë laying around so I have started soaking the food prior to
feeding. Do you have any favorite vitamins, or method of soaking the food
(length of time, etc)
<No favorite manufacturers. Most are fine as far as I am aware (not actually made by the pet-fish companies that label, distribute them, but by much bigger, human-intended concerns). Time to soak about ten-fifteen minutes does about all the good that can be... and administering directly to the systems water once a week are my standard operating procedures here>
I do fear now my problem is they have both become females. Without
introduction of a third I feel I am at a loss on this one. However I am
encouraged at your thought that this could indeed be nutritional.
<Yes, and/or just time... Do agree that a very large system, more individuals would lead to one individual becoming/assuming male looks/behavior... but in time one of these two will likely become a male... a matter of months. You likely know that many wrasses studied, all the Cirrhilabrus I'm aware of, are protogynous synchronous hermaphrodites... first females, turning into males if conditions allow/warrant it... Patience my friend. Bob Fenner>
--Brad

Just bought a Hawaiian Flame Wrasse -- Are They Jumpers?
Hi Bob,
I recently had the good fortune to purchase a 3" male flame wrasse in
perfect condition. I have him in an extremely healthy 55 gallon show reef
(bare bottom) with 2 small tangs (purple and chevron). The rocks are
arranged with lots of small arches and mini caves/ledges for the fish to go
in and out of.
<A good aquarium species, likely good tankmates, but a small system for this animal>
Plus, I have extremely heavy small polyp growth over every
rock in the system (it's several years old, and no rock surfaces show because
there are so many polyps -- I actually have to "weed" the tank every few
months!). So, hopefully he feels secure.
<You will know by observation>
I'm worried that this fish will end-up jumping out of the tank. I read that
they can do this. 
<Yes, very capable... cover over all openings big enough to exit>
Technically, all fish can, but certain ones seem to be
hell-bent on suicide (e.g., gobies/tile fish). If there's a slight
possibility, then I'm not worried. However, if it's very common, then I'd
like to take preventive measures.
<Please read re the genus Cirrhilabrus on our site: http://wetwebmedia.com/cirrhilabrus.htm>
My tank is acrylic with the typical two large openings on top. What do
people use to prevent jumping? 
<The tank fabricators make little covers... I generally use "shipping tape"...>
I don't want to impede air circulation as I
have fans running and 2 halides. I also don't want to cut down light
transmission. Any suggestions? Thanks so much.
<The tape, and air stones, Venturi intakes... likely a couple of muffin fans on your canopy blowing air in/out of the area above the tank. If this area is enclosed and the Jordan's Wrasse jumps out, it will likely flop back in... Bob Fenner>
Darin Tidwell

Re: Just bought a Hawaiian Flame Wrasse -- Are They Jumpers?
Thanks for the lightning-fast response. The back of my canopy is open.
What I'll probably do is put some type of material across the lower backside
of the opening, so if he jumps, he'll be able to flop back into the tank.
<Good planning>
Yes, I realize this system is a bit small for this type of fish, and I'd
love to get a 90 gallon or larger system, but I live in California and we're
prone to earthquakes, so I figure 55 gallons of reef on the floor is better
than 90. I also have a 20 gallon refugium with sand/plants below the tank.
<Do know what you mean. Live in San Diego>
I truly appreciate your help. I don't know how you keep up with all the
messages you get!
<I key quickly. Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
Darin

Disease?
My main tank recently crashed due to velvet. Unfortunately I found your site while I was
attempting to fix the problem rather than before the tank was set up. From the FAQ I
see I'm not the only one.
<No my friend>
I'm two weeks into a 6-8 week fallow period for the main tank and have set up a quarantine tank.
The one remaining fish (a blue and gold blenny, looks like a Midas with a blue belly) was moved
to quarantine 2 weeks ago and is doing OK.
Since I have the quarantine tank running I recently purchased another Percula clown and a
flame wrasse. I followed the method described on wetwebmedia.com: acclimation, fresh water
dip with Methylene Blue (2 min each), then into the QTank. Today, due to the reflection off the bottom of the
tank, I noticed the wrasse has a dark patch under his gills; dark blue maybe black. My daughter
mentioned she saw this when he was in the bag, but I missed it. It is eating, but somewhat lethargic.
<Hmm. Maybe nothing.>
I can't see into the gills to check for infection there. It's respiration is slightly elevated. A few times
it was swimming beside the clown similar to the way a tang swims next to a cleaner shrimp.
Do you have any other advice? I'm tired of losing fish.
<If this specimen looks otherwise fine, I would run it through a pH adjusted freshwater dip and place it in your main/display system. Cirrhilabrus species wrasses do take a beating in quarantine (they're quite shy, and eat, need to eat a bunch of "little meals" during the day... I would dip/bathe and place this specimen. Bob Fenner>

Re: disease?
Thanks for the prompt reply. I hope that your family and friends are safe
after the events of the past day.
<<Thank you my friend. Sense that no one feels safe.>>
<If this specimen looks otherwise fine, I would run it through a pH adjusted
freshwater dip and place it in your main/display system. Cirrhilabrus
species wrasses do take a beating in quarantine (they're quite shy, and eat,
need to eat a bunch of "little meals" during the day... I would dip/bathe
and place this specimen. Bob Fenner>
Rather than letting the tank run without fish for 4 more weeks? I don't
want to loose the flame wrasse, but I need to consider the long term health
of the main tank. One fish now or many fish in the future. Based on the
wetwebmedia.com info, the fallow tank seems to be rather important.
<Oh, sorry for the confusion. Not able to follow so many conversations... do you have another system to move this fish to that has been up a while, has healthy live rock? Bob Fenner>

A quick disease question: Cirrhilabrus
Robert, I want to thank you for answering my past emails. I have really
appreciated it.
<You're welcome.>
I have a new Red Sea Regal. It seems to have problems controlling its body,
spending almost all of the time head down. Then it spins madly out of
control for a few minutes before settling down again. It is eating and
otherwise looks fine. No visible wounds or spots. It is breathing heavily,
but not in the extreme.
<Yikes... likely either a residual effect of collection... or a brain-involved parasitic disorder... in either case, best to try to keep the animal fed, be patient, hope for self-cure>
By the way, I recently sent you an email about fairy wrasses and whether the
flame (jordani) wrasse could sustain higher temperatures over time. I have
communicated with a lot of people and am getting the consensus that the
jordani wrasse would survive but not thrive at temperatures over 82.
<Yes>
Although the Hawaiian waters are some warmer at the surface, I guess the
jordani is deep water fish where the temperatures are cooler. 
<Hmm, yes... but the water does approach the upper seventies in the warmer months where they are found... Dive around Molokini, Maui and see, feel for yourself>
Some
speculated that it is a question of oxygen supply.
<Good point... higher temp. means lower gas solubility, elevated metabolism...>
Anyway, I do not know if
it means anything, but I thought I would pass it along.
<Thank you for this... will post on our www.WetWebMedia.com site under the Cirrhilabrus FAQs. Bob Fenner>
Matt Davis, Seattle

Ever heard of Cirrhilabrus magnificum
I have a pair of Scott's Fairy wrasses and love the genus. A number of dealers offer a "magnificent" fairy wrasse that they identify as Cirrhilabrus magnificum, but I can find no info on that species. ever heard of it? 
(Yes, but not scientifically... you can check out all the valid species of Velvet Wrasses, Cirrhilabrus on www.fishbase.org and my coverage of the genus on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com... there are a few as yet undescribed-scientifically species sold in the trade from time to time...)
Also can you recommend a second pair (male/female) of fairy wrasses for a 180 live rock and fish tank? I love the flame (jordani) wrasse, but my tank temp is 82-84, and I have been warned that this may be excessive for a Hawaiian endemic.
(Good point... do check the WWM site for more tropical members... Bob Fenner)
Thanks as always.

Fairy/Flasher Wrasse questions
Thanks for your help in the past. Hope you might have some more insights. I have a 180 fish and live rock tank. Mostly mellow fish right now, except for a hyper Kole tang and flame angel.
<And these are relatively easygoing...>
I am considering an attempt at putting together a harem of fairy or flasher wrasses. Ultimately, it would be with the plan to try to get them to breed. No one seems to carry the females.
<Not as easily sold... due to color, finnage differences... everyone wants the males it seems>
Do you know if this has been done and whether it worked? Thanks.
<Yes, many times, many places... Have seen these groupings mainly in public aquariums due to size of tank requirements... but can be done. Bob Fenner>

Wrasse id
Hi Bob. Thanks for the quick response to my last question (and the humorous
headline on the new FAQ's page!)
<Ah, always wondering if someone's keeping an eye on me...>
This is an easy one, for now. I'd been wanting to add a fairy wrasse of
some kind, to be the last fish addition to my system. I was considering the
fine spotted fairy wrasse and the solar wrasse. I went to my LFS this
weekend--they had a solar wrasse, but it was very expensive and the
coloration was not good. However, they had another wrasse that was
absolutely beautiful. It looked like a fairy wrasse of some kind. The
problem was, neither the LFS or their supplier could identify it. Since it
was a "mystery fish" they gave it to me for about half of what they would
ordinarily charge for a nice fairy wrasse. (The fish is doing great--he
started feeding an hour or so after introduction to the tank, on flake and
brine shrimp, and has made a "house" in the sand under a piece of LR.)
Since I bought this fish, I have searched all my "fish books," as well as
the reference book at the LFS. I've also searched the WWM site, and every
'net site that I can think of, without success. It's actually becoming a
"mission" for me. As a last resort, I'll take a picture and see if you can
identify it, or give you a detailed description--but for now, I'm having fun
trying to find it myself.
<There are quite a few Fairy's... have you waded through the FishBase.org site yet? Some pix missing there as well...  and Dr. Randall has told me (he has helped describe many of these and other fishes) that there are a few more to be  described...>
My question is, where can I find a good comprehensive online library of
marine fishes to browse through? (I've already checked every site listed
under "Other Indices" on the WWM site, as well as most of the links under
the "Hobbyist Sites." I've also checked many fish e-tailer sites, to no
avail.) Is coralrealm.com a good resource worth investing in (for this, as
well as other things)? Can you recommend any other resources?
<Please tell me if YOU find any... Friends are helping me put up WWM2 with some 25k images...  for sale ala Corbis.com... perhaps some relief there... but not for a few months. Bob Fenner>
--Sherlock
James A. Deets

Re: Wrasse Mystery
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001
http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?genusname=
Cirrhilabrus&speciesname=cyanopleura
This link is to a fish that is VERY similar. The coloration on the sides and fins is identical. My fish also has the light underside as does this one. However, in the "mystery fish," the head is pink, instead of blue like this one.  And the eyes are red--very striking. It's got to be the same genus as this one, however, I still haven't found the species. (There were almost 800 wrasses on FishBase.org, and I looked at anything that it could possibly be--this is as close as I've come so far. . .)
OK--so I'm letting the cat out of the bag--getting a little help--but it might turn into a joint "mission" if this guy isn't to be found anywhere. One more day of searching, then I'll send a pic!
Thanks!
<Ah, you're getting closer... Bob Fenner>

Flame Wrasse
Can I add a flame wrasse (male) to my existing 90 gallon fish only tank with 60 pounds of live rock? Below is my current livestock, water condition, inhabitant behavior:
Livestock:
- 4" Scott's fairy (male) 
- 2.5" Cuban hog
- 3" juvenile imperator 
- 4" juvenile personifer
- 2" African flameback
Water Condition:
- ammonia/ nitrite = 0 ppm
- nitrate = 2 ppm
Behavior:
All specimens are behaving socially and happily amongst each other (no aggression).
If the flame wrasse is not a good choice, can you please make a recommendation?
Thanks. Dan
>>
This Cirrhilabrus would fit in for now... but your ninety is going to be getting crowded with those large angelfishes growing up...
Bob Fenner