|
| |
|
FAQs on Fairy, Velvet Wrasses, Genus Cirrhilabrus
Selection Related Articles:
Fairy Wrasses,
Related FAQs: Velvet
Wrasses 1, Velvet Wrasses 2, Velvet Wrasses 3,
Velvet Wrasse Identification,
Velvet Wrasse Behavior,
Velvet Wrasse Compatibility,
Velvet Wrasse Systems,
Velvet Wrasse Feeding,
Velvet Wrasse Disease,
Wrasses,
Wrasse Selection,
Wrasse
Behavior, Wrasse
Compatibility, Wrasse Feeding,
Wrasse Diseases,
Will your new Wrasses go with the present or intended
tankmates?
G.
V. Catalano sent in this very nice pic of an unidentified "arborose"
anemone. |

|
fairy wrasse in a nano tank, not
10/4/08 Hello there! <Hi!> Great site, can't repeat myself
enough. <Thanks> I have a year old 10G nano reef tank, with a medium CPR
refugium loaded with Caulerpa and Chaetomorpha macros. I have 15-17 lbs of live
rock, corals-mostly softies, very few sps. 2-3 hermits. maybe 2 Nassarius snail
and 3 turbo snail. No fish. Parameters are: Amm 0, nitrate 0, Ph 8.2-8.3,
alkalinity 8-9 DKH, calcium 440 ppm, magnesium 1280-1350 ppm, Temp 77-80 F I
run a Outer Orbit MH 150W 14000 Kelvin light system. All my corals and inverts
seem very healthy and growing fast. The system free of nuisance algaes of any
kind. ( Wasn't an easy progress though..:-) Here's my question. I'd love to
keep either an exquisite, Scott's or blue sided fairy wrasse in my system. That
would be my only fish. Please let me know if it's possible in such a small
system? Did you know anyone who had success with them in a nano tank? <Very
rarely... these fishes need much more room to move, feel safe... am wondering if
there isn't "footage" on "YouTube" or such re how Cirrhilabrus make their lives
in the wild... For the most part they live in shoals that roam around a large
territory together, "playing off" each other... with one alpha male, an
assortment of lesser fe/males, undifferentiated individuals... W/o the social
component, the males alone don't act or stay very spectacular... in such small
volumes they basically go "stir crazy"... Really need a hundred gallons plus...
others of their own kind...> Your time and hassle truly appreciated, Sonny
<James Lawrence/Microcosm, told me ayer that they're coming out with one of
their pocket guide books on livestock for nanos... I believe you're a candidate.
Bob Fenner>
McCosker's Wrasse…Introducing a Small
Group – 08/05/08
Eric or whoever answers this time,
<<Hello Michele…Eric here>>
Thanks for the advice on adding a shoal!
<<Quite welcome>>
I included previous correspondence below to remind you.
<<Thank you for this>>
We decided to go with the McCosker's wrasse trio,
<<A neat little wrasse>>
but finding females has proven difficult.
<<Oh?>>
My husband purchased a male and a female from BlueZoo with the idea of ordering
another one to two females when they become available.
<<Okay…and I would add “two” more if possible>>
I am wondering if it is ok to have just one female (too much male aggression???)
or if they should be quarantined separately and then placed together when we
have the additional females.
<<If the wait is not too long (don’t want the dominant female to “turn”) and you
have the capacity to do so…keeping them separated and adding the females to the
display tank a few days ahead of the male is best>>
They arrive in 2 days, so we have time to get 2 QTs together if needed.
<<Excellent>>
We were actually planning on cheating a bit with the QT. We still have a 90
gallon running with about 20 pounds live rock, DSB, and in-line refugium. This
tank holds some LPS and SPS we have not moved to the new tank yet to give the
240 time to mature a bit first. We were going to put the wrasse in there and
then if there is a problem, move them to a hospital tank for treatment.
<<Sounds fine…little concern re disease with these fish>>
We plan on leaving the 90 up for another six months, so the tank would have
ample fallow time if a problem arose. So, a male and female McCosker's wrasse
together in the 90 or in separate QTs?
<<Separate…as outlined>>
Another unrelated question....I have a new green clown goby in another tank that
has decided to alternate hosting a Heliofungia and Frogspawn despite the
presence of Acropora.
<<Hmm…>>
Should we be worried about the little guy being consumed by these LPS?
<<Unless the fish is “very” small I think this to be unlikely…and short of
removing the LPS corals or the goby, there’s not much you can do anyway>>
Oh, and the trigger continues to hang out in his corner staring out the glass
unless we approach the tank and he's in front of us "wagging his tail" and
begging!
<<Perhaps this is just this fish’s “personality”>>
Thanks as always for the info! Take care!
Michele
<<Always happy to share my friend. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Adding Another Wrasse To
My Tank (Not Going to Be Easy), Cirrhilabrus genus – 02/10/08
Thanks for the advice.
<<Quite welcome>>
Do you think other members of the Cirrhilabrus <sic> family could work like C.
exquisitus, C. punctatus or C. solorensis?
<<Mmm…yes, I do. They are all of similar/the correct size (i.e. – larger than
the “established” Sixline Wrasse but still small enough for your system), and
will “sleep” in a mucus cocoon wedged in a crevice in the rock, which will get
past your “bare-bottom” issue. EricR>>
Wrasse pectoral fin injury, Cirrhilabrus
hlth., sel. 8/29/07
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a male Hawaiian fairy wrasse
<Cirrhilabrus jordani I take it>
which has been fine in my 72 gallon tank with plenty of live rock and a mixed
crushed coral/aragonite sand substrate.
The wrasse shares the tank with a Rabbitfish, False Percula, Chromis, and
fridmani Pseudochromis.
The other night I happened to be up around 2am and heard an odd sound in my
tank. The sound was either a bumping sound (perhaps my acrylic lid tank covers)
or mechanical(possibly a powerhead). Either way, I noticed the next morning that
my Wrasse's pectoral fin seemed non-functional and the fish made efforts of
swimming about but with some difficulty. The incident occurred when all the tank
lights were out....also that same morning, I noticed a 4-inch branch of one of
my Acroporas was broken off too. My guess is that the fish got spooked or
something...maybe even gotten too close to the powerhead intake vents.
So the fish eventually swimmed
<swam>
to the rear/bottom of the tank and with rapid breathing. As of now, I don't know
if he's hiding or possibly consumed by the tanks crustaceans...all my tank
lights are on and I don't see him.
Is it possible for fish to heal from such a wound (even if it's a broken fin?).
I don't see any tears or other signs of stress to the fin.
<Possibly... Fairy/Velvet Wrasses are real "jumpers"...>
Is it wise to attempt to capture and confine the fish to heal in a quarantine
tank?
Or would the stress of acquiring the fish be too much stress and cause
potentially more harm?
<I would leave this fish in place>
Any thoughts?
thank you!
Walter
<Better for this species to be kept in a haremic setting... one male and a few
females... even better in a biotopic setting... None of its tankmates you list
are found in its geographical range. Bob Fenner>
Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? – 07/19/07
Hello.
<<Hi Pam!>>
Are any wrasses less likely to jump than others?
<<Most all the small ornamental species offered/used in the trade have varying
tendencies re.. in my experience>>
I have an open tank, and I know most wrasses are jumpers, but I thought if they
were put in with all peaceful fish, that they may not jump.
<<This does help, but it is not just the other fishes that can/will cause a
wrasse (any “jumper” species) to head for the open air. At one time I had a
couple small groups of Flasher Wrasse species that would go “nuts” if the lights
on the tank were to suddenly “black out” as from a power surge/outage...sounded
like pinballs pinging around in the light hood!>>
I have an Elos tank, and don't want to cover it with Eggcrate or screen.
<<Neat!...and understood>>
The beauty of the tank, is that it's rimless and open.
<<Yes...very nice>>
My fish are all very peaceful. Right now I have a Pygmy Possum Wrasse, a Purple
Firefish and a Tailspot Blenny. I really wanted to add a Laboutei, but don't
want to be irresponsible if it's definitely going to leap out of the tank and
die.
<<VERY likely with this species...and is the same pretty much with all the
Flasher and Fairy Wrasse species. I have experienced, as well as very often hear
of these fishes demise from leaping out an “uncovered” system>>
I know Firefish can be jumpers, but my Firefish never goes beyond the bottom
half of the tank, and if he gets spooked, he dives into the rock...never up. I
have two good size caves in my rock and lots of crevices and swim-throughs.
<<All good, though many of the wrasses tend to be more active in the upper-third
of the water column>>
So..... should I definitely nix the idea of the Laboutei?
<<Logic would seem to dictate this...>>
Are any other bright wrasses less likely to jump?
<<Still no guarantee it won’t end up on the floor, but the smaller Halichoeres
species are quite colorful and would be “less likely” than the Laboutei to sail
out of your tank...in my opinion. H. Chrysus is a premier aquarium species...and
if you want something a bit less monochromatic, take a look at H. ornatissimus>>
Thank you! Pam
<<Regards, EricR>>
Re: Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? -
07/20/07
Thanks Eric.
<<Quite welcome, Pam>>
Ok, I'll take your advice and keep away from the Mystery Wrasses.
<<I think you mean Flasher/Fairy Wrasses?...Probably for the best>>
I took a look at the two wrasses you mentioned.
<<Okay?>>
I really like the ornatissimus.
<<A gorgeous fish indeed>>
I also was looking at the Five-barred Mystery Wrasse.
<<Another beauty...love that “expression”>>
That's one of the only wrasses that LiveAquaria doesn't mention as a jumper.
<<Am in disagreement>>
Do you know if they are jumpers or not?
<<I have known them to jump, yes...though “possibly” less prone than the
previous mentioned species due to their tendency to stay/hide lower in the water
column. And please do understand, I have seen Halichoeres spp jump as well...I
just think these are the better “gamble” re >>
Thanks, Pam
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
R2: Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? -
07/20/07
Whoops...you're right Eric.
<<Hiya Pam!>>
I meant I'd keep away from Fairy Wrasses.
<<Ah yes, so I thought>>
One more question for you.
<<Okey-dokey>>
LiveAquaria mentions that a Copperband Butterfly needs a 50g tank or larger, and
another site mentions 30g, but I believe they can get up to 8".
<<In the wild, yes…and maybe a bit larger even>>
Aren't they way too big for a 50g?
<<In my opinion, yes… Not so much because of the water volume as these fishes
are not quite so active as say the Tangs, but rather the limits in “real estate”
prohibit keeping this fish in such smallish systems. Chelmon rostratus is often
a problematic feeder, having a larger system (100g+) with ample live
rock/substrate and the associated infauna (along with an in-line refugium to
help sustain populations) will go a long way towards sustaining this fish while
it is being trained to other foods, as well as continuous contribution to the
long-term health of this species>>
Thanks. Pam
<<Cheers, EricR>>
Fairy Wrasse... Shoal of 5 in a 500 gallon
tank 6/30/07
<Greetings! Mich here.>
Second question in one evening.
<You're reaching your limit... just kidding!>
Hope you can help.
<Me too!>
In my new 500g reef rank,
<Well, I'm jealous!>
I would like the "primary" motion to come from a small school of Cirrhilabrus
scottorum.
<Oh! This is one of my most favorite fish. I love fairy wrasses in general, but
I am a particular fan of this beauty. I love them because they can be so
colorful! Like a rainbow!>
My LFS has recommended buying ~5 females and introducing them to the tank at one
time (last).
<This is good in theory.>
The theory is that one will change to male and they will work in a community.
<Yes. This is a sound philosophy.>
Does this sound reasonable?
<Yes.>
Is this too many/too few?
<This seems reasonable. Five would be a nice final number. Hopefully all
survive.>
Would this idea worry you in captivity (I've never seen this done)?
<There is nothing that I see as a red flag here. Please send pictures of the
group when you get to this point!>
Thanks!!!
<Welcome!>
Juvenile Rhomboid Wrasse Pair 6/6/07
Guys,
First off, thanks for all your wonderful advice! I've learned a lot reading
through all of these forums.
Hopefully now you can advise me again. I, like a lot of people have been
looking for a rhomboid fairy wrasse. I found a pair yesterday and while
discussing shipping options they were sold out from under me. The guy I was
dealing with tells me he has a juvenile pair, about 1.5" he can sell me for
$250.
<I've gots to get back into the collection biz>
My fairy wrasse this small easily misidentified?
<Easily>
Also, I had planned on keeping eggcrate over my tank, but it would seem
wrasse this small could easily make it through the holes. What would you
advise about this purchase?
Thanks,
D
<If this is the overall length of these Cirrhilabrus (rather than scientific
"Standard Length"... tip of snouts to hypurals...)(
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish_measurement)
I would NOT buy these fish... too small, too much money for my taste/value
system... I've seen this species about for much less cash at more adult
size... I would hold off, look for these... Perhaps DrsFosterSmith.com,
MarineCenter.com... Bob Fenner>
Lineatus Fairy Wrasse... sel. - 11/11/06
Hi Crew,
I come seeking clarification regarding the Lineatus Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus
lineatus). I've been hearing/reading mixed information, so I've come to the
experts (are you buttered up yet?).
<Fully lubed>
My setup
Setup: 90 gallon FOWLR tank, sump with Excalibur protein skimmer, 80lbs LR
Stock:
Powder Blue (my fish store told me my tank size was plenty, but I'm saving for a
future 300 gal for him)
Flame Angel, 3 Firefish, 4 Blue-green chromis, and 2 false Percula clownfish
My question,
I am interested in adding a Lineatus Fairy Wrasse as my last addition. I've read
that a single female will eventually turn to a male if it is the only fish in
the tank (reference:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1765). However,
my LFS owner stated the opposite, that a male may turn back to a female if
isolated. Can you set me straight?
<Mmm, both can happen... though more likely that an "initial" phase labrid
period will convert to a "terminal" (male) phase... in all cases, the "maleness"
will not be as pronounced as in the case of members of both sexes or more than
one individual being present. Hopefully that makes sense>
Also, I've read that coloration in the male is most brilliant with 'harems'.
<Oh, yes>
Would a harem be 3 or more?
<Now am thinking of Elvis singing in "Harem Scare". Thanks a lot. Oh, yes>
Or would 2 suffice?
<Two in a harem... What, do you live in Salt Lake?>
If so, I'm worried that a 90gal would not support any more than one to begin
with. Is fading color a real issue and are there other ways to address it
without adding females?
<Mmm, not really... all else being equal (just what does this mean anyway?),
good water quality, nutrition, a dearth of agonistic tankmates... the presence
of conspecifics brings out the most, best, "natural" behavior/s... Ooh,
including sex changes, reversals...>
Sorry for all the questions, but I really appreciate your advice.
Thanks,
Ian
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Lineatus Fairy Wrasse 11/12/06
Bob,
Thank you for the quick reply! Based on your response, my plan would be to house
one male with two female Lineatus Fairy Wrasses (No I don't live in Salt Lake,
although that setup sounds nice).
<Heeeee!>
Just be sure, do you feel a 90gal is sufficient in size for three of these fish?
Thanks again!
Ian
<Should be fine... large enough to inspire natural behavior... Bob Fenner>
Yellow Candy Hogfish or Scott's Fairy Wrasse (7-26-06)
Hi WWM crew sorry for all the questions.
<Hi there you have Leslie in for the crew this morning. No worries, that’s what
we are here for.>
I have a Ocellaris Clownfish( Amphiprion ocellaris) and a Fridmani
Pseudochromis( Pseudochromis fridmani) which do you think would be better with
these fish … a Yellow Candy Hogfish or a Scott's Fairy Wrasse?
<I am not exactly which Hogfish you are referring to I am going to take a guess
that it’s the Bodianus bimaculatus… Twinspot or Yellow Hogfish. Have a look here
to be sure we are talking about the same fish
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/bodianus/index.htm It’s the
4th fish listed. If they are not one in the same just be sure you have chosen a
fish that is appropriately sized for your tank and tankmates. If they are on in
the same I think either would be just fine, so go with whichever one suits your
fancy. I personally really like the Scott’s Fairy Wrasse.>
Thanks for your fast reply and helping aquarists with their problems.
<Your most welcome, Leslie>
Re: Yellow Candy Hogfish or Scott's Fairy Wrasse, cont. (7-26-06)
Yep I was talking about the Bodianus bimaculatus <Good guess, I guess>
thanks for your fast reply. <Your very welcome>
I think I will get the Scott's Fairy Wrasse- Australia.
<Great choice, I think you will be pleased.
Best of luck to you and your new fish, Leslie.>
Exquisite Wrasse - 2/15/2006
Hello,
<Hi there>
I recently purchased an exquisite wrasse who now resides in my Quarantine
Tank. The wrasse is having a major problem swimming. He lies on his back most
of the time but breathes normal. When I feed him, he scoots himself along to
catch the food. What type of condition could he have and what medicines are
available to treat this. All of my tank parameters are normal. I don't want to
lose him. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
<Having chased this species a number of times underwater I am surprised any
arrive in live condition... this is one of the species I would do a pre-emptory
dip/bath on and place in a large, established (hundreds of gallons, lots of live
rock, reef) aquarium... and hope that it lives. Bob Fenner.
Solar Fairy Wrasse Trio 12/18/2005
Hello everyone.
<<Hello Brian - Ted here.>>
I have a question about Solar Fairy Wrasse. My current setup is 55g tank, HOB
refugium, AquaC Pro skimmer, Tunze 6060, Mag 9.5 on a closed loop, and a few
corals such as xenia, mushrooms, and a Kenya tree. I read on fishbase.org that
male specimens of Solar Fairy Wrasse have a band of coloration on their gills.
If this is correct I currently have one male in my 55g. I am considering adding
2 more of these fish to my tank. I have read that they school together, and I
would love to see them perform courting displays. Is there any other way to
determine the sex of Solar Wrasse? <<Yes. Cirrhilabrus sp. are sexually
dichromatic with the males being the more colorful. Males are more often
imported because of this.>> Would it be safe to add 2 more of these fish to the
tank? <<You can keep several together but keep only one male.>> I am going for a
peaceful reef tank, and aside from a Starry Blenny, Cleaner Shrimp, and random
crabs these fish will be the main attraction. Several websites have stated that
as long as the newly added fish are smaller than the current wrasse, they will
change into/stay as females. Is this reliable information? <<If you add only
females size will not be an issue. I would recommend being patient and adding
only females. See this link (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cirrhilabruspt2.htm)
for pictures of a male and female).>> Do the females have different colorations
from the males? <<Yes.>> All of the Solar Wrasse's I have seen have tremendous
coloration, do males and females only differ in the band on their gills? <<No.>>
Thank you for all your assistance.
Sincerely,
Brian
<<You're welcome and good luck - Ted>>
Pass on This Wrasse? (Wrasse Selection) 11/9/05
Hello,
<Hello there! Scott F. with you today.>
I would like to know if you can recommend the fairy wrasse Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura, or Ruby Head Wrasse. How hardy is this particular species?
<The hardiness of this, or any Fairy Wrasse species is subject to a number of factors. The most important single factor, IMO, is the capture and handling techniques that the fish received along the chain of control from reef to LFS. It's generally a deeper water fish, which means that there is greater trauma associated with its capture. From that point, careful acclimation, quarantine and feeding will enhance the chances for success with this fish.>
I have a 40 gallon tank with two percula clowns, so I doubt
that there will be an aggression problem.
<In my personal opinion, this fish would do better in a larger system, which affords more swimming area and the possibility of places to retreat if threatened. Also, greater environmental stability is a big factor in keeping these fishes, and larger tanks afford greater stability, in general.>
How easy is this particular fish to feed?
<No more difficult, or no more simple than any other Cirrhilabrus species, IMO>
Is there an easier fairy wrasse that you would recommend?
<I like the "Hawaiian flame Wrasse" (C. jordani). It's an attractive, easy-to-feed fish, in my experience, and seems to adapt well to captive life. However, it does get fairly large, and I wouldn't recommend one for your tank. Personally, I'd pass on most Fairy Wrasses in this sized aquarium, and opt for one of the smaller Halichoeres species, or even a "Sixline Wrasse", Pseudocheilinus hexataenia. Better suited for a smaller system, IMO.>
I have received great help from you guys before, and I look forward from hearing you again.
Thanks very much,
Joe Marano
<Glad to be here for you, Joe. Good luck on your choices. Regards, Scott F.>
Rare Marine Fishes/Suppliers 7/10/03
Kevin here, Lately I've been on a quest to land a pair or small harem of C.
rhomboidalis, with obviously little success. <hmmm.. they have been coming in
regularly... just saw them fresh in Arizona and California> Do you have any
clue as to which wholesalers may have the connections to get them? Aqua Marines
out of LA claims that he gets them in monthly, which I doubt, <hmmm.. I would
not doubt it... they are one of the best sources for rare fishes. The species
has been making it in regularly at any rate> but we have since had a falling
out w/ them and will no longer be doing business. <very sorry to hear it>
Sergio at ERI was a hopeful prospect until his Marshall collector spilled the
beans that the rhomboids he has been selling are actually a different Cirr.
wrasse but look similar. <yes... I do believe I have seen both. Not that
similar looking to me> He also said that true rhomboids are very difficult to
get, as suspected, but there must be a Marshall collector out there who's
getting them. Any thoughts, and have you ever seen a fairy wrasse that looks
even remotely similar to a rhomboid? <they usually pass through the hands of
the Hawaiian collectors. If you are in the industry (dealer), use your indices
from Pet Business/Pet Age, PIJAC, etc to run down a list of Hawaiian collectors
to appeal to> Kevin <best regards, Anthony>
Kevin S. here w/ a rhomboid Q
Hey Bob!
No need to have this hit the FAQ's.
Anthony said you might have some HI contacts for getting a pair or two of C.
rhomboidalis? The usual LA wholesalers have yet to come up with anything for me.
Any recommendations for a reputable supplier?
Kevin
<Do have a few friends who collect in Hawaii (wish you were coming out with
us next week. Can you still make it, 24th to the 31st?). But... the only member
of the genus recorded from there is C. jordani... "Western Central
Pacific" is the stated distribution of this animal. Saw Anthony's response
to you re... Have you checked (as in called) folks in LA... either Sea Dwelling
Creatures or Quality Marine? Do identify yourself with WWM and myself if so. As
Antoine stated, have seen this species in LA and Phoenix recently. Bob F>
Re: Kevin S. here w/ a rhomboid Q
<Ooo, too short notice to bail out to HI for a week, although I'd absolutely
LOVE to go. Sorry for the confusion, I didn't mean that C. rhomboid. was
from HI,
<... not necessarily... though Randy Fernley (Coral Fish Hawai'i) does
transship (mostly Centropyge loricula) through O'ahu>
but since they're from the Marshalls, Anthony said that they'd hit
HI soon after collection. We don't have an account with Quality, but we do
with SDC. Will call tomorrow. Thanks, Kevin>
<I would do so. Ask for Carl at SDC, Robert at QM. If you would like, make it
known if/when you can be there (on 104th) and I'll meet you during a "book
delivery day" and smooth the transaction. Bob Fenner>
Re: Kevin S. here w/ a rhomboid Q
Hey Bob,
I talked to Carl today at SDC, he said they had a male rhomboid in a few
weeks back, but other than that he hasn't seen them for years. He's going to
ask around and get back to me hopefully with promising news.
<Ah, good>
Any other
options besides QM? I'd also be interested in calling up the stores that you
saw them at a few weeks back, or maybe you or Anthony could shoot them an
email and find out where they got them from.
<Maybe contact the fine fellows at Aqua Touch (Phoenix): http://www.aquatouch.com/
am sure they will tell you where they were able to get theirs. Bob Fenner>
Kevin
<Oh, and here's a pic of one. Bob> |
|

|
Re: the rhomboid saga continues...
Kevin here again... Thanks for hooking me up with Carl, he's probably the
most hobbyist-like rep I've ever spoken with.
<Yes, a fine young fellow (at Sea Dwelling Creatures)>
Unfortunately we've been dealing with Gersh for years, and apparently he was
hurt that I was asking Carl stuff instead of him.
<Mmm, unusual>
Oh well. Anyways, Carl flat out told me that I was "pipe dreaming",
then later Gersh called back and proclaimed that he can get me a pair in 2
weeks.
<Ha! Perhaps some friendly competition at work here>
I'm going to cross my fingers on it, even though he wants four bills for the
pair (everyone else had said 75 each, yet no one could come up with them...). I
hope this works out! Lata
Kevin
<I've gots to get back into the collection end! Good luck. Bob Fenner>
Fairy Wrasses
Hi Wrasse Experts,
I have a 120-gal reef tank with lots of live rock and a nice sand bed. The
live rock has lots of caves and hiding places. The tank is completely
enclosed. Presently I have a 3.5" Siganus vulpinus, a 2"
Pseudochromis fridmani, and a pair of Cirrhilabrus scottorum (5" &
4"). All get along great together, no problems whatsoever.
<Sounds like it would be a nice peaceful tank. Perfect to lower
the blood pressure with!>
Here comes the question: What will happen if I add a second pair of
Cirrhilabrus wrasses of a different species?
<Most wrasses from the Cirrhilabrus family tend to be group dwelling fish.
They live in harems consisting of a secondary male and numerous females. So,
if you were to add more Scott's Fair wrasses, then most likely there wouldn't be
that much of an issue, provided that the new additions are larger than the
current ones. It might lead to a few disputes at first if the new guy
is bigger than the current male. Mixing different species of wrasse
can be a bit hazardous but these wrasses are known for their peaceful nature. Not
to mention having large amount of rockwork helps in the equation.>
I was thinking of maybe C. lineatus?
<very beautiful fish! Though not seen as frequently in the aquarium hobby as
the Scott's Fairy Wrasse, the Lineatus is hardier in my opinion.>
Will the two males duke it out or will they ignore each other since they are not
the same species?
<most people I know say that they would ignore each other, but you are taking
a risk with it.>
If that won't work, could I add another female C. scottorum to give me two
females and one supermale?
<Since these wrasses are found in harems, I would go for an additional Scott's. You can get to see the male doing his "I have my
harem" deal. They tend to act a bit different when there is 2 or
more females to one male.>
Or how about adding a pair of Paracheilinus octotaenia instead? Or should I just
wait until I get my 375-gal tank before I mix wrasses?
<if you could wait until you have a 375 gallon tank going then it would
easier allow you to add multiple species of wrasses. Be sure to check out some
of our WetWebMedia FAQs and info sites dealing with Wrasses.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wrascompfaqs.htm
Hope that helps. -Magnus>
Thanks, George
Australian Lineatus Wrasse 3/13/04
Hi All! Well my flame scallops are doing well. heresy) I
know I'm a blind squirrel. lol Thanks for the id on the Chisel-tooth
wrasse. Blasted LFS didn't have an id and I couldn't find an id, do
you know anyone who'll want it once it gets 12" long? arghh. I
hope it grows slowly. ;] Maybe by that time we'll have a 400g and a
bigger house. lol They have a Creole wrasse now that just looks
beautiful, but its only 2 1/2" long. sigh.
<Congrats on your success with the flame scallops. Please do
realize that success with such animals should be measured in years, not
months! Many inappropriate fish make it into the hobby. I
know a very famous aquarist who has a napoleon wrasse in his reef
tank! These grow to several feet in length!>
I'd like some advice since you guys are such wonderful advice
givers... One of these days I would like to buy what I consider
to be the holy grail of wrasses (one of them at least, I adore wrasses!) an
Australian Lineatus Wrasse. But not until we are well established in
the 180 which we will be buying sooner than later (I hope!).
<Good plan to hold off until you have a system that will be stable.>
Would you consider this to be a hard to keep fish? Also, what are the
space requirements on a fish like this? Would I be able to keep a
small one in a 33g propagation tank or should I wait for the 180?
<My limited experience is that these fishes (fairy and flasher wrasses in
general) are fairly hardy, but not quite so hardy as other wrasses. I
would not suggest keeping it in a 33gal tank. Why subject an animal
that you obviously hold in such high regard to less than ideal
conditions? These fish are moderately susceptible to parasites and as
somewhat timid planktivores they often demand live foods (at least for a
time). Aggressive feeders can easily outcompete them for food,
especially in the first few days/weeks after introduction.>
Would it be okay to mail order this fish or would it be better to try and order
it through a wholesaler (we know several)?
<I always advise against purchasing these fish mail order. If you ask
your LFS to order it for you, the will often order more than one, allowing you
not only to observe it's health, but to choose. It is a whole other
topic, but there are also a multitude of reasons to support your local
stores.>
Will a 180 be big enough, I currently have a Japanese wrasse and a super
friendly exquisite wrasse in my 58g and my husband has a yellow Coris (why do
they call this Coris, its sci. name is diff?) and the chisel tooth in the 75g.
<Please do consider the typical temperaments of these fish, as well as your
observations and consider if you really want to risk them with your
"centerpiece" fish.>
Thanks and I hope you have a wonderful day! Your ever-loving fan,
Morgan Bob Fenner ha nihongo wo hanasu? <Thanks for the
kind words! Best Regards, Adam><<Hi, wakarimas scoshe. From
living in Japan as a youth. RMF>>
In Search Of The Perfect Wrasse...
Hello Crew,
<Hello! Scott F. here today>
Thought I pop in another question for my mentors. I've been wanting
to purchase a Rhomboid Wrasse for some time now.
<Awesome fish!>
However, I've seen pairs at the LFS but never of acceptable quality by my
standards. I figured if I'm going to spend that kind of money, it should be in
perfect condition.
<I agree with you 100%!>
Are Rhomboids really bad shippers? The ones I've seen were
always pale, inactive, breathing heavy, white blotches on skin, and with a few
nips here and there. They told me that is how they always come.
<Well, these fish tend to suffer during the collection and shipping process.
They are usually found in deeper water, and the initial collection often leads
to trauma. Then, like other fishes, they have to endure a number of days without
food, in poor water, while being shipped to the wholesaler, dealer, and then to
you. Little wonder that they look to be in poor shape! My advice to you is to
either place a deposit on some at the LFS, and see if they will hold them for a
few days (to give them a chance to recover a it), or to pay the extra $$ and get
them from a online source like Marine Center or LiveAquaria.com.>
And when I try to wait out on them, they're always sold before I can get another
look. Well, the LFS has another Rhomboid in, but no pair, just one
male. Would the male lose color w/o the better half?
<Quite possibly. With other species of wrasses to "flash" at, he
might retain some color, though>
And would it be wise to add just any non-pair female if they come along later
on?
<Ideally, you'd want one male to two or three females. These fish are
"haremic" in nature, and display nicely when kept this way in the
aquarium>
Another thing is, if they are still in bad condition as before, which I expect,
do you think I should take a risk in buying it based on the aforementioned
conditions?
<I'd see if they improve a bit in the dealer's tank, first, before taking
them home. See if he/she accepts a deposit>
I've waited and waited. Just don't know how long I would
have to keep on waiting. The LFS says they probably won't be getting
any of them soon after this one.
<Trust me on this- I'm a huge wrasse fan. I've missed a bunch of rare fishes
over the years 'cause I hesitated for various reasons (like the ones you
describe), but they always seem to be available again down the line. Maybe not
tomorrow, or even next month. But eventually...It took me almost a year and a
half to find a "Peppermint" Hog Fish (B. masudai), but I eventually
found a great specimen. The same is true for many fairy and flasher wrasses.
There will be others out there. Unless the specimen is an absolute
one-of-a-kind, I would wait for a good-quality one.>
Tks for your advice always.
Roy
<My pleasure, Roy! Don't give up the search. It's part of the fun! Regards,
Scott F>
Fairy/Flasher Wrasse questions
Thanks for your help in the past. Hope you might have some more insights. I
have a 180 fish and live rock tank. Mostly mellow fish right now, except for a
hyper Kole tang and flame angel.
<And these are relatively easygoing...>
I am considering an attempt at putting together a harem of fairy or flasher
wrasses. Ultimately, it would be with the plan to try to get them to breed. No
one seems to carry the females.
<Not as easily sold... due to color, finnage differences... everyone wants
the males it seems>
Do you know if this has been done and whether it worked? Thanks.
<Yes, many times, many places... Have seen these groupings mainly in public
aquariums due to size of tank requirements... but can be done. Bob Fenner>
Fairy wrasse
Hi Bob, it's me again. I just recently emailed you about that HUFA and fish
aggression question. Anyways, I finally found a store, which is willing to make
a trade for my red lip blenny. Of course I'll probably have to pay some too. I
looking for info on the Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis fairy wrasse. The FAQs don't
have any questions about them. I'm asking because they are the only affordable
fairy wrasses, and they are just as pretty as most others. How do they do as
lone males?
<Fine, but won't be, stay as colorful as if female/s were about... Bob
Fenner.>
Do they need the females with them to do well? Thanks for your help.
Flame Wrasse
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Hi there>
How are you? Hope all is well. I hope you can answer a few questions I have
regarding my recently purchased male Flame Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus jordani).
<One of my favorite species of a very favored genus: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cirrhilabrus.htm
my coverage and the FAQs beyond... where your message will be archived.>
He
resides in my 90 gal. reef aquarium. The Flame Wrasse is eating well, and
getting along great with the other inhabitants (Purple and Yellow Tang). I
was wondering if it is necessary/beneficial to have a harem for him ¦in terms
of psychological and/or physiological?
<Mmm, no. If anything, in a tank of this size, you might try a single
female>
Will the intense coloration remain
the same or fade without the company of females?
<Would be better with a female present>
I am inclined to add
two/three females for him€¦what is a reasonable number, given the space
availability.
<Exactly... the space is too small for any but one other (female) individual.
More females here would too likely lead to more troubles than having none. Bob
Fenner>
Regards,
Dan
| |
|