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FAQs on Fairy, Velvet Wrasses, Genus Cirrhilabrus Selection
Related Articles:
Fairy Wrasses, Related FAQs:
Velvet Wrasses 1, Velvet Wrasses 2, Velvet
Wrasses 3, Velvet Wrasse
Identification, Velvet Wrasse
Behavior, Velvet Wrasse
Compatibility, Velvet Wrasse
Systems, Velvet Wrasse Feeding,
Velvet Wrasse Disease,
Wrasses, Wrasse Selection,
Wrasse Behavior, Wrasse Compatibility,
Wrasse Feeding, Wrasse Diseases,
Will your new Wrasses go with the present or intended tankmates?
G.
V. Catalano sent in this very nice pic of an unidentified "arborose"
anemone. | 
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Re: Tank questions... Reef Quarantining, Stocking, for how
large a system? Oh, a 180... 7/28/09
Hi Bob,
<Karina>
I sent this a couple of weeks ago, to which you replied, but I have
since lost the reply. I'm hoping that the original email will serve to
jog your memory in regards to my situation. Since our exchange, I am sad
to report that all the fish in QT have died, except for my male black
ocellaris clown. Actually they died within days. Now I'm thinking
perhaps it was Brook or Velvet, as I don't think crypto would kill that
fast. Even fish that were not showing any signs of illness died. I'm
thinking the cramped conditions in the hospital tank did them all in.
Oddly, the yellow wrasse in the DT is still alive, healthy, and kicking.
I was never able to catch him. My little male clown has survived daily
FW formalin dips and daily water changes. He is eating well and appears
active. I will probably not move him until September, so whatever is in
the display tank can die down.
In the meantime, while I am bummed about losing fish I had for years, I
am also excited to be planning a new stocking list. I wanted to run it
by you, as well as get your input on quarantine. YES I learned my
lesson, but I've also read that you do not recommend QT for Cirrhilabrus
wrasses, and this time around, they will make up a good part of my
stocking list. I plan to keep them in QT at least a week, I'd feel safer
if that were longer, but don't want to needlessly kill any fish. If you
recall, I believe it was an unquarantined, undipped Scott's fairy that
caused the whole mess in the DT to begin with. I had performed FW dips
on wrasses before, per your instructions on the WetWeb, and they did not
seem to handle it well. Actually my solar wrasse died minutes after a
formalin FW dip
<With vigorous aeration?>
while in the hospital tank, and he wasn't even in there for 2 minutes.
Please advise, I tried to look for a "list" of fish that do poorly in QT
but was unable to find one. Here is my planned stocking list.
Yellow wrasse (H. chrysus) in display
Black ocellaris clown (in hospital tank)
Adding:
Black ocellaris clown to pair with my small male (should this new one be
bigger, smaller, same size? I've read varying opinions)
bicolor blenny (QT or not? Again, varying opinions here)
<Mostly I don't do so with Ecsenius spp>
Yasha goby pair
<Not to quarantine>
Pink margin fairy wrasse
Pylei fairy wrasse (similar in appearance to the pink margin, should I
anticipate a problem?)
<See WWM re... sys. size, the genus>
solar wrasse
blue head fairy wrasse (C. cyanopleura)
Velvet wrasse
<... I would revisit this stocking list... Settle on just one species of
Cirrhilabrus, at most two in this volume, shape display>
Christmas wrasse
flame angel
Squarespot anthias pair (1 male, 1 female)
neon goby
powder brown tang
Tomini tang
purple tang
The tangs for sure will be QT'd, but I need advice on the others. Also
I'm not too sure about the Tomini tang. I wanted another Kole but he was
really evil to my original bicolor blenny that caused him to starve to
death, I don't want a repeat of the situation. He does not have to be
added, if you feel that would be too much bioload. By the way....the
coral eating crab has become a sheer terror with the lack of fish
food/waste going in the tank. The other night, he stole one of my
favorite clams. I have subsequently moved the remaining coral (luckily
they were all small frags and clams attached to shells) to the sump, but
there is limited light. How long can they last down there?
<Last? Remove the crab>
The crab is being sneaky and evading capture, though I'm still trying.
Darn decapods. Thanks for any help or insight you may be able to
provide.
The site is an awesome resource for all aquarists, though it does
require hours of searching and perusing. I applaud your efforts, as well
as the rest of the crew's.
Karina
<Please keep reading it. BobF>
Re: Tank questions... reef
stkg., reading re Velvet Wrasses – 07/28/09
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply. So you think only 2 cirrhilabrus in a 180?
It is 72 x 24 x 24. I thought I could keep a couple more in a tank that
size.
I am willing to drop the Pylei and Velvet wrasses.
Yes the solar wrasse was in the dip with an airstone. Still don't
understand what went wrong. Maybe the formalin was too toxic for him.
Thanks again for your help. I will keep reading.
<Good>
Lubbock's Wrasse, sel.
6/20/09
<Hello Scott>
I came across a male and a female Lubbock's Wrasse today at a local fish
store. I knew I wanted to add a fairy wrasse to the new 55 gallon mixed
reef tank I recently set up, so I purchased the male, acclimated him,
and added him to my tank tonight. After reading up on the Lubbock's
Wrasse, I wonder if I should go back and purchase the female tomorrow
when the shop opens. I found some information that they may rather be in
a group of a male and a couple of females, but I only have the chance to
buy one female right now. I also read that females may be hard to come
by because the male is more often collected due to its more vibrant
colors. I don't necessarily want to buy the female, or have a group of
these wrasses, but I will if it will make the single male feel more
comfortable in the tank, or possibly show more natural behaviors.
<As far as showing natural behaviors, the Lubbock's Wrasse is more
colorful during courting, but it's not necessary to have a female
present to make the male feel more comfortable. If females are desired,
it is better to have more than one female present, generally a three to
one ratio is recommended.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Scott Thompson
fairy wrasse in a nano tank, not 10/4/08
Hello there!
<Hi!>
Great site, can't repeat myself enough.
<Thanks>
I have a year old 10G nano reef tank, with a medium CPR
refugium loaded with Caulerpa and Chaetomorpha macros. I have 15-17 lbs
of live rock, corals-mostly softies, very few sps. 2-3 hermits. maybe 2
Nassarius snail and 3 turbo snail. No fish.
Parameters are: Amm 0,
nitrate 0, Ph 8.2-8.3, alkalinity 8-9 DKH, calcium 440 ppm, magnesium
1280-1350 ppm, Temp 77-80 F
I run a Outer Orbit MH 150W 14000 Kelvin
light system. All my corals and inverts seem very healthy and growing
fast. The system free of nuisance algaes of any kind. ( Wasn't an easy
progress though..:-)
Here's my question. I'd love to keep either an
exquisite, Scott's or blue sided fairy wrasse in my system. That would
be my only fish. Please let me know if it's possible in such a small
system? Did you know anyone who had success with them in a nano tank?
<Very rarely... these fishes need much more room to move, feel safe...
am wondering if there isn't "footage" on "YouTube" or such re how
Cirrhilabrus make their lives in the wild... For the most part they live
in shoals that roam around a large territory together, "playing off"
each other... with one alpha male, an assortment of lesser fe/males,
undifferentiated individuals... W/o the social component, the males
alone don't act or stay very spectacular... in such small volumes they
basically go "stir crazy"... Really need a hundred gallons plus...
others of their own kind...>
Your time and hassle truly appreciated,
Sonny
<James Lawrence/Microcosm, told me ayer that they're coming
out with one of their pocket guide books on livestock for nanos... I
believe you're a candidate. Bob Fenner>
McCosker's Wrasse…Introducing a Small Group – 08/05/08
Eric or
whoever answers this time,
<<Hello Michele…Eric here>>
Thanks for
the advice on adding a shoal!
<<Quite welcome>>
I included
previous correspondence below to remind you.
<<Thank you for this>>
We decided to go with the McCosker's wrasse trio,
<<A neat little
wrasse>>
but finding females has proven difficult.
<<Oh?>>
My
husband purchased a male and a female from BlueZoo with the idea of
ordering another one to two females when they become available.
<<Okay…and I would add “two” more if possible>>
I am wondering if it
is ok to have just one female (too much male aggression???) or if they
should be quarantined separately and then placed together when we have
the additional females.
<<If the wait is not too long (don’t want the
dominant female to “turn”) and you have the capacity to do so…keeping
them separated and adding the females to the display tank a few days
ahead of the male is best>>
They arrive in 2 days, so we have time to
get 2 QTs together if needed.
<<Excellent>>
We were actually
planning on cheating a bit with the QT. We still have a 90 gallon
running with about 20 pounds live rock, DSB, and in-line refugium. This
tank holds some LPS and SPS we have not moved to the new tank yet to
give the 240 time to mature a bit first. We were going to put the wrasse
in there and then if there is a problem, move them to a hospital tank
for treatment.
<<Sounds fine…little concern re disease with these
fish>>
We plan on leaving the 90 up for another six months, so the
tank would have ample fallow time if a problem arose. So, a male and
female McCosker's wrasse together in the 90 or in separate QTs?
<<Separate…as outlined>>
Another unrelated question....I have a new
green clown goby in another tank that has decided to alternate hosting a
Heliofungia and Frogspawn despite the presence of Acropora.
<<Hmm…>>
Should we be worried about the little guy being consumed by these LPS?
<<Unless the fish is “very” small I think this to be unlikely…and short
of removing the LPS corals or the goby, there’s not much you can do
anyway>>
Oh, and the trigger continues to hang out in his corner
staring out the glass unless we approach the tank and he's in front of
us "wagging his tail" and begging!
<<Perhaps this is just this
fish’s “personality”>>
Thanks as always for the info! Take care!
Michele
<<Always happy to share my friend. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Adding Another Wrasse To My Tank (Not Going to Be Easy),
Cirrhilabrus genus – 02/10/08
Thanks for the advice.
<<Quite welcome>>
Do you think other members of the Cirrhilabrus
<sic> family could work like C. exquisitus, C. punctatus or C.
solorensis?
<<Mmm…yes, I do. They are all of similar/the correct size
(i.e. – larger than the “established” Sixline Wrasse but still small
enough for your system), and will “sleep” in a mucus cocoon wedged in a
crevice in the rock, which will get past your “bare-bottom” issue.
EricR>>
Wrasse pectoral fin injury, Cirrhilabrus hlth., sel. 8/29/07
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a male Hawaiian fairy wrasse
<Cirrhilabrus jordani I take it>
which has been fine in my 72 gallon
tank with plenty of live rock and a mixed crushed coral/aragonite sand
substrate.
The wrasse shares the tank with a Rabbitfish, False
Percula, Chromis, and fridmani Pseudochromis.
The other night I
happened to be up around 2am and heard an odd sound in my tank. The
sound was either a bumping sound (perhaps my acrylic lid tank covers) or
mechanical(possibly a powerhead). Either way, I noticed the next morning
that my Wrasse's pectoral fin seemed non-functional and the fish made
efforts of swimming about but with some difficulty. The incident
occurred when all the tank lights were out....also that same morning, I
noticed a 4-inch branch of one of my Acroporas was broken off too. My
guess is that the fish got spooked or something...maybe even gotten too
close to the powerhead intake vents.
So the fish eventually swimmed
<swam>
to the rear/bottom of the tank and with rapid breathing. As of
now, I don't know if he's hiding or possibly consumed by the tanks
crustaceans...all my tank lights are on and I don't see him.
Is it
possible for fish to heal from such a wound (even if it's a broken
fin?). I don't see any tears or other signs of stress to the fin.
<Possibly... Fairy/Velvet Wrasses are real "jumpers"...>
Is it wise
to attempt to capture and confine the fish to heal in a quarantine tank?
Or would the stress of acquiring the fish be too much stress and cause
potentially more harm?
<I would leave this fish in place>
Any
thoughts?
thank you!
Walter
<Better for this species to be
kept in a haremic setting... one male and a few females... even better
in a biotopic setting... None of its tankmates you list are found in its
geographical range. Bob Fenner>
Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? – 07/19/07
Hello.
<<Hi Pam!>>
Are any wrasses less likely to jump than others?
<<Most all the small
ornamental species offered/used in the trade have varying tendencies
re.. in my experience>>
I have an open tank, and I know most wrasses
are jumpers, but I thought if they were put in with all peaceful fish,
that they may not jump.
<<This does help, but it is not just the
other fishes that can/will cause a wrasse (any “jumper” species) to head
for the open air. At one time I had a couple small groups of Flasher
Wrasse species that would go “nuts” if the lights on the tank were to
suddenly “black out” as from a power surge/outage...sounded like
pinballs pinging around in the light hood!>>
I have an Elos tank, and
don't want to cover it with Eggcrate or screen.
<<Neat!...and
understood>>
The beauty of the tank, is that it's rimless and open.
<<Yes...very nice>>
My fish are all very peaceful. Right now I have a
Pygmy Possum Wrasse, a Purple Firefish and a Tailspot Blenny. I really
wanted to add a Laboutei, but don't want to be irresponsible if it's
definitely going to leap out of the tank and die.
<<VERY likely with
this species...and is the same pretty much with all the Flasher and
Fairy Wrasse species. I have experienced, as well as very often hear of
these fishes demise from leaping out an “uncovered” system>>
I know
Firefish can be jumpers, but my Firefish never goes beyond the bottom
half of the tank, and if he gets spooked, he dives into the rock...never
up. I have two good size caves in my rock and lots of crevices and
swim-throughs.
<<All good, though many of the wrasses tend to be more
active in the upper-third of the water column>>
So..... should I
definitely nix the idea of the Laboutei?
<<Logic would seem to
dictate this...>>
Are any other bright wrasses less likely to jump?
<<Still no guarantee it won’t end up on the floor, but the smaller
Halichoeres species are quite colorful and would be “less likely” than
the Laboutei to sail out of your tank...in my opinion. H. Chrysus is a
premier aquarium species...and if you want something a bit less
monochromatic, take a look at H. ornatissimus>>
Thank you! Pam
<<Regards, EricR>>
Re: Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? - 07/20/07
Thanks Eric.
<<Quite welcome, Pam>>
Ok, I'll take your advice and keep away from
the Mystery Wrasses.
<<I think you mean Flasher/Fairy
Wrasses?...Probably for the best>>
I took a look at the two wrasses
you mentioned.
<<Okay?>>
I really like the ornatissimus.
<<A
gorgeous fish indeed>>
I also was looking at the Five-barred Mystery
Wrasse.
<<Another beauty...love that “expression”>>
That's one of
the only wrasses that LiveAquaria doesn't mention as a jumper.
<<Am
in disagreement>>
Do you know if they are jumpers or not?
<<I have
known them to jump, yes...though “possibly” less prone than the previous
mentioned species due to their tendency to stay/hide lower in the water
column. And please do understand, I have seen Halichoeres spp jump as
well...I just think these are the better “gamble” re >>
Thanks, Pam
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
R2: Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? - 07/20/07
Whoops...you're
right Eric.
<<Hiya Pam!>>
I meant I'd keep away from Fairy
Wrasses.
<<Ah yes, so I thought>>
One more question for you.
<<Okey-dokey>>
LiveAquaria mentions that a Copperband Butterfly needs
a 50g tank or larger, and another site mentions 30g, but I believe they
can get up to 8".
<<In the wild, yes…and maybe a bit larger even>>
Aren't they way too big for a 50g?
<<In my opinion, yes… Not so much
because of the water volume as these fishes are not quite so active as
say the Tangs, but rather the limits in “real estate” prohibit keeping
this fish in such smallish systems. Chelmon rostratus is often a
problematic feeder, having a larger system (100g+) with ample live
rock/substrate and the associated infauna (along with an in-line
refugium to help sustain populations) will go a long way towards
sustaining this fish while it is being trained to other foods, as well
as continuous contribution to the long-term health of this species>>
Thanks. Pam
<<Cheers, EricR>>
Fairy Wrasse... Shoal of 5 in a 500 gallon tank 6/30/07
<Greetings! Mich here.>
Second question in one evening.
<You're
reaching your limit... just kidding!>
Hope you can help.
<Me too!>
In my new 500g reef rank,
<Well, I'm jealous!>
I would like the
"primary" motion to come from a small school of Cirrhilabrus scottorum.
<Oh! This is one of my most favorite fish. I love fairy wrasses in
general, but I am a particular fan of this beauty. I love them because
they can be so colorful! Like a rainbow!>
My LFS has recommended
buying ~5 females and introducing them to the tank at one time (last).
<This is good in theory.>
The theory is that one will change to male
and they will work in a community.
<Yes. This is a sound philosophy.>
Does this sound reasonable?
<Yes.>
Is this too many/too few?
<This seems reasonable. Five would be a nice final number. Hopefully all
survive.>
Would this idea worry you in captivity (I've never seen
this done)?
<There is nothing that I see as a red flag here. Please
send pictures of the group when you get to this point!>
Thanks!!!
<Welcome!>
Juvenile Rhomboid Wrasse Pair 6/6/07
Guys,
First off, thanks
for all your wonderful advice! I've learned a lot reading through all of
these forums.
Hopefully now you can advise me again. I, like a lot of
people have been looking for a rhomboid fairy wrasse. I found a pair
yesterday and while discussing shipping options they were sold out from
under me. The guy I was dealing with tells me he has a juvenile pair,
about 1.5" he can sell me for $250.
<I've gots to get back into the
collection biz>
My fairy wrasse this small easily misidentified?
<Easily>
Also, I had planned on keeping eggcrate over my tank, but it
would seem wrasse this small could easily make it through the holes.
What would you advise about this purchase?
Thanks,
D
<If this
is the overall length of these Cirrhilabrus (rather than scientific
"Standard Length"... tip of snouts to hypurals...)(
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish_measurement)
I would NOT buy these
fish... too small, too much money for my taste/value system... I've seen
this species about for much less cash at more adult size... I would hold
off, look for these... Perhaps DrsFosterSmith.com, MarineCenter.com...
Bob Fenner> Lineatus Fairy Wrasse... sel. - 11/11/06
Hi Crew,
I come seeking clarification regarding the Lineatus Fairy
Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus lineatus). I've been hearing/reading mixed
information, so I've come to the experts (are you buttered up yet?).
<Fully lubed>
My setup
Setup: 90 gallon FOWLR tank, sump with
Excalibur protein skimmer, 80lbs LR
Stock:
Powder Blue (my fish
store told me my tank size was plenty, but I'm saving for a future 300
gal for him)
Flame Angel, 3 Firefish, 4 Blue-green chromis, and 2
false Percula clownfish
My question,
I am interested in adding a
Lineatus Fairy Wrasse as my last addition. I've read that a single
female will eventually turn to a male if it is the only fish in the tank
(reference:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1765).
However, my LFS owner stated the opposite, that a male may turn back to
a female if isolated. Can you set me straight?
<Mmm, both can
happen... though more likely that an "initial" phase labrid period will
convert to a "terminal" (male) phase... in all cases, the "maleness"
will not be as pronounced as in the case of members of both sexes or
more than one individual being present. Hopefully that makes sense>
Also, I've read that coloration in the male is most brilliant with
'harems'.
<Oh, yes>
Would a harem be 3 or more?
<Now am
thinking of Elvis singing in "Harem Scare". Thanks a lot. Oh, yes>
Or would 2 suffice?
<Two in a harem... What, do you live in Salt
Lake?>
If so, I'm worried that a 90gal would not support any more
than one to begin with. Is fading color a real issue and are there other
ways to address it without adding females?
<Mmm, not really... all
else being equal (just what does this mean anyway?), good water quality,
nutrition, a dearth of agonistic tankmates... the presence of
conspecifics brings out the most, best, "natural" behavior/s... Ooh,
including sex changes, reversals...>
Sorry for all the questions,
but I really appreciate your advice.
Thanks,
Ian
<Welcome.
BobF>
Re: Lineatus Fairy Wrasse 11/12/06
Bob,
Thank you for
the quick reply! Based on your response, my plan would be to house one
male with two female Lineatus Fairy Wrasses (No I don't live in Salt
Lake, although that setup sounds nice).
<Heeeee!>
Just be sure,
do you feel a 90gal is sufficient in size for three of these fish?
Thanks again!
Ian
<Should be fine... large enough to inspire
natural behavior... Bob Fenner>
Yellow Candy Hogfish
or Scott's Fairy Wrasse (7-26-06)
Hi WWM crew sorry for all the
questions.
<Hi there you have Leslie in for the crew this morning.
No worries, that’s what we are here for.>
I have a Ocellaris
Clownfish( Amphiprion ocellaris) and a Fridmani Pseudochromis(
Pseudochromis fridmani) which do you think would be better with these
fish … a Yellow Candy Hogfish or a Scott's Fairy Wrasse?
<I am not
exactly which Hogfish you are referring to I am going to take a guess
that it’s the Bodianus bimaculatus… Twinspot or Yellow Hogfish. Have a
look here to be sure we are talking about the same fish
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/bodianus/index.htm
It’s the 4th fish listed. If they are not one in the same just be sure
you have chosen a fish that is appropriately sized for your tank and
tankmates. If they are on in the same I think either would be just fine,
so go with whichever one suits your fancy. I personally really like the
Scott’s Fairy Wrasse.>
Thanks for your fast reply and helping
aquarists with their problems.
<Your most welcome, Leslie>
Re: Yellow Candy Hogfish or Scott's Fairy Wrasse, cont. (7-26-06)
Yep I was talking about the Bodianus bimaculatus <Good guess, I guess>
thanks for your fast reply. <Your very welcome>
I think I will get
the Scott's Fairy Wrasse- Australia.
<Great choice, I think you will
be pleased.
Best of luck to you and your new fish, Leslie.>
Exquisite Wrasse - 2/15/2006
Hello,
<Hi there>
I recently purchased an exquisite wrasse who now resides in my
Quarantine Tank. The wrasse is having a major problem swimming. He
lies on his back most of the time but breathes normal. When I feed him,
he scoots himself along to catch the food. What type of condition could
he have and what medicines are available to treat this. All of my tank
parameters are normal. I don't want to lose him. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks.
<Having chased this species a number of times
underwater I am surprised any arrive in live condition... this is one of
the species I would do a pre-emptory dip/bath on and place in a large,
established (hundreds of gallons, lots of live rock, reef) aquarium...
and hope that it lives. Bob Fenner.
Solar Fairy Wrasse Trio
12/18/2005
Hello everyone.
<<Hello Brian - Ted here.>>
I
have a question about Solar Fairy Wrasse. My current setup is 55g tank,
HOB refugium, AquaC Pro skimmer, Tunze 6060, Mag 9.5 on a closed loop,
and a few corals such as xenia, mushrooms, and a Kenya tree. I read on
fishbase.org that male specimens of Solar Fairy Wrasse have a band of
coloration on their gills. If this is correct I currently have one male
in my 55g. I am considering adding 2 more of these fish to my tank. I
have read that they school together, and I would love to see them
perform courting displays. Is there any other way to determine the sex
of Solar Wrasse? <<Yes. Cirrhilabrus sp. are sexually dichromatic with
the males being the more colorful. Males are more often imported because
of this.>> Would it be safe to add 2 more of these fish to the tank?
<<You can keep several together but keep only one male.>> I am going for
a peaceful reef tank, and aside from a Starry Blenny, Cleaner Shrimp,
and random crabs these fish will be the main attraction. Several
websites have stated that as long as the newly added fish are smaller
than the current wrasse, they will change into/stay as females. Is this
reliable information? <<If you add only females size will not be an
issue. I would recommend being patient and adding only females. See this
link (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cirrhilabruspt2.htm)
for pictures of a male and female).>> Do the females have different
colorations from the males? <<Yes.>> All of the Solar Wrasse's I have
seen have tremendous coloration, do males and females only differ in the
band on their gills? <<No.>> Thank you for all your assistance.
Sincerely,
Brian
<<You're welcome and good luck - Ted>>
Pass on This Wrasse? (Wrasse Selection) 11/9/05
Hello,
<Hello there! Scott F. with you today.>
I would like to know if you
can recommend the fairy wrasse Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura, or Ruby Head
Wrasse. How hardy is this particular species?
<The hardiness of this,
or any Fairy Wrasse species is subject to a number of factors. The most
important single factor, IMO, is the capture and handling techniques
that the fish received along the chain of control from reef to LFS. It's
generally a deeper water fish, which means that there is greater trauma
associated with its capture. From that point, careful acclimation,
quarantine and feeding will enhance the chances for success with this
fish.>
I have a 40 gallon tank with two percula clowns, so I doubt
that there will be an aggression problem.
<In my personal opinion,
this fish would do better in a larger system, which affords more
swimming area and the possibility of places to retreat if threatened.
Also, greater environmental stability is a big factor in keeping these
fishes, and larger tanks afford greater stability, in general.>
How
easy is this particular fish to feed?
<No more difficult, or no more
simple than any other Cirrhilabrus species, IMO>
Is there an easier
fairy wrasse that you would recommend?
<I like the "Hawaiian flame
Wrasse" (C. jordani). It's an attractive, easy-to-feed fish, in my
experience, and seems to adapt well to captive life. However, it does
get fairly large, and I wouldn't recommend one for your tank.
Personally, I'd pass on most Fairy Wrasses in this sized aquarium, and
opt for one of the smaller Halichoeres species, or even a "Sixline
Wrasse", Pseudocheilinus hexataenia. Better suited for a smaller system,
IMO.>
I have received great help from you guys before, and I look
forward from hearing you again.
Thanks very much,
Joe Marano
<Glad to be here for you, Joe. Good luck on your choices. Regards, Scott
F.> Rare Marine Fishes/Suppliers 7/10/03
Kevin here,
Lately I've been on a quest to land a pair or small harem of C.
rhomboidalis, with obviously little success. <hmmm.. they have been
coming in regularly... just saw them fresh in Arizona and California> Do
you have any clue as to which wholesalers may have the connections to
get them? Aqua Marines out of LA claims that he gets them in monthly,
which I doubt, <hmmm.. I would not doubt it... they are one of the best
sources for rare fishes. The species has been making it in regularly at
any rate> but we have since had a falling out w/ them and will no longer
be doing business. <very sorry to hear it> Sergio at ERI was a hopeful
prospect until his Marshall collector spilled the beans that the
rhomboids he has been selling are actually a different Cirr. wrasse but
look similar. <yes... I do believe I have seen both. Not that similar
looking to me> He also said that true rhomboids are very difficult to
get, as suspected, but there must be a Marshall collector out there
who's getting them. Any thoughts, and have you ever seen a fairy wrasse
that looks even remotely similar to a rhomboid? <they usually pass
through the hands of the Hawaiian collectors. If you are in the industry
(dealer), use your indices from Pet Business/Pet Age, PIJAC, etc to run
down a list of Hawaiian collectors to appeal to> Kevin <best regards,
Anthony> Kevin S. here w/ a rhomboid Q
Hey Bob!
No
need to have this hit the FAQ's.
Anthony said you might have some HI
contacts for getting a pair or two of C. rhomboidalis? The usual LA
wholesalers have yet to come up with anything for me. Any
recommendations for a reputable supplier?
Kevin
<Do have a few
friends who collect in Hawaii (wish you were coming out with us next
week. Can you still make it, 24th to the 31st?). But... the only member
of the genus recorded from there is C. jordani... "Western Central
Pacific" is the stated distribution of this animal. Saw Anthony's
response to you re... Have you checked (as in called) folks in LA...
either Sea Dwelling Creatures or Quality Marine? Do identify yourself
with WWM and myself if so. As Antoine stated, have seen this species in
LA and Phoenix recently. Bob F> Re: Kevin S. here w/ a rhomboid
Q
<Ooo, too short notice to bail out to HI for a week, although
I'd absolutely
LOVE to go. Sorry for the confusion, I didn't mean
that C. rhomboid. was
from HI,
<... not necessarily... though
Randy Fernley (Coral Fish Hawai'i) does transship (mostly Centropyge
loricula) through O'ahu>
but since they're from the Marshalls,
Anthony said that they'd hit
HI soon after collection. We don't have
an account with Quality, but we do
with SDC. Will call tomorrow.
Thanks, Kevin>
<I would do so. Ask for Carl at SDC, Robert at QM. If
you would like, make it known if/when you can be there (on 104th) and
I'll meet you during a "book delivery day" and smooth the transaction.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Kevin S. here w/ a rhomboid Q
Hey Bob,
I talked to
Carl today at SDC, he said they had a male rhomboid in a few
weeks back, but other than that he hasn't seen them for years. He's
going to
ask around and get back to me hopefully with promising
news.
<Ah, good>
Any other
options besides QM? I'd also be
interested in calling up the stores that you
saw them at a few
weeks back, or maybe you or Anthony could shoot them an
email and
find out where they got them from.
<Maybe contact the fine
fellows at Aqua Touch (Phoenix):
http://www.aquatouch.com/
am sure they will tell you where
they were able to get theirs. Bob Fenner>
Kevin
<Oh, and
here's a pic of one. Bob> | 
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Re: the rhomboid saga continues...
Kevin here again... Thanks for
hooking me up with Carl, he's probably the most hobbyist-like rep I've
ever spoken with.
<Yes, a fine young fellow (at Sea Dwelling
Creatures)>
Unfortunately we've been dealing with Gersh for years,
and apparently he was hurt that I was asking Carl stuff instead of him.
<Mmm, unusual>
Oh well. Anyways, Carl flat out told me that I was
"pipe dreaming", then later Gersh called back and proclaimed that he can
get me a pair in 2 weeks.
<Ha! Perhaps some friendly competition at
work here>
I'm going to cross my fingers on it, even though he wants
four bills for the pair (everyone else had said 75 each, yet no one
could come up with them...). I hope this works out! Lata
Kevin
<I've gots to get back into the collection end! Good luck. Bob Fenner>
Fairy Wrasses
Hi Wrasse Experts,
I have a 120-gal reef tank
with lots of live rock and a nice sand bed. The live rock has lots of
caves and hiding places. The tank is completely enclosed. Presently I
have a 3.5" Siganus vulpinus, a 2" Pseudochromis fridmani, and a pair of
Cirrhilabrus scottorum (5" & 4"). All get along great together, no
problems whatsoever.
<Sounds like it would be a nice peaceful
tank. Perfect to lower the blood pressure with!>
Here comes the
question: What will happen if I add a second pair of Cirrhilabrus
wrasses of a different species?
<Most wrasses from the Cirrhilabrus
family tend to be group dwelling fish. They live in harems consisting of
a secondary male and numerous females. So, if you were to add more
Scott's Fair wrasses, then most likely there wouldn't be that much of an
issue, provided that the new additions are larger than the current
ones. It might lead to a few disputes at first if the new guy is bigger
than the current male. Mixing different species of wrasse can be a bit
hazardous but these wrasses are known for their peaceful nature. Not to
mention having large amount of rockwork helps in the equation.>
I was
thinking of maybe C. lineatus?
<very beautiful fish! Though not seen
as frequently in the aquarium hobby as the Scott's Fairy Wrasse, the
Lineatus is hardier in my opinion.>
Will the two males duke it out or
will they ignore each other since they are not the same species?
<most people I know say that they would ignore each other, but you are
taking a risk with it.>
If that won't work, could I add another
female C. scottorum to give me two females and one supermale?
<Since
these wrasses are found in harems, I would go for an additional
Scott's. You can get to see the male doing his "I have my harem"
deal. They tend to act a bit different when there is 2 or more females
to one male.>
Or how about adding a pair of Paracheilinus octotaenia
instead? Or should I just wait until I get my 375-gal tank before I mix
wrasses?
<if you could wait until you have a 375 gallon tank going
then it would easier allow you to add multiple species of wrasses. Be
sure to check out some of our WetWebMedia FAQs and info sites dealing
with Wrasses.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wrascompfaqs.htm
Hope that
helps. -Magnus>
Thanks, George Australian Lineatus Wrasse
3/13/04
Hi All! Well my flame scallops are doing well.
heresy) I know I'm a blind squirrel. lol Thanks for the id on the
Chisel-tooth wrasse. Blasted LFS didn't have an id and I couldn't find
an id, do you know anyone who'll want it once it gets 12" long?
arghh. I hope it grows slowly. ;] Maybe by that time we'll have a 400g
and a bigger house. lol They have a Creole wrasse now that just looks
beautiful, but its only 2 1/2" long. sigh.
<Congrats on your success
with the flame scallops. Please do realize that success with such
animals should be measured in years, not months! Many inappropriate
fish make it into the hobby. I know a very famous aquarist who has a
napoleon wrasse in his reef tank! These grow to several feet in
length!>
I'd like some advice since you guys are such wonderful
advice givers... One of these days I would like to buy what I consider
to be the holy grail of wrasses (one of them at least, I adore wrasses!)
an Australian Lineatus Wrasse. But not until we are well established in
the 180 which we will be buying sooner than later (I hope!).
<Good
plan to hold off until you have a system that will be stable.>
Would
you consider this to be a hard to keep fish? Also, what are the space
requirements on a fish like this? Would I be able to keep a small one
in a 33g propagation tank or should I wait for the 180?
<My limited
experience is that these fishes (fairy and flasher wrasses in general)
are fairly hardy, but not quite so hardy as other wrasses. I would not
suggest keeping it in a 33gal tank. Why subject an animal that you
obviously hold in such high regard to less than ideal conditions? These
fish are moderately susceptible to parasites and as somewhat timid
planktivores they often demand live foods (at least for a
time). Aggressive feeders can easily outcompete them for food,
especially in the first few days/weeks after introduction.>
Would it
be okay to mail order this fish or would it be better to try and order
it through a wholesaler (we know several)?
<I always advise against
purchasing these fish mail order. If you ask your LFS to order it for
you, the will often order more than one, allowing you not only to
observe it's health, but to choose. It is a whole other topic, but
there are also a multitude of reasons to support your local stores.>
Will a 180 be big enough, I currently have a Japanese wrasse and a super
friendly exquisite wrasse in my 58g and my husband has a yellow Coris
(why do they call this Coris, its sci. name is diff?) and the chisel
tooth in the 75g.
<Please do consider the typical temperaments of
these fish, as well as your observations and consider if you really want
to risk them with your "centerpiece" fish.>
Thanks and I hope you
have a wonderful day! Your ever-loving fan, Morgan Bob Fenner ha
nihongo wo hanasu? <Thanks for the kind words! Best Regards,
Adam><<Hi, wakarimas scoshe. From living in Japan as a youth. RMF>>
In Search Of The Perfect Wrasse...
Hello Crew,
<Hello! Scott
F. here today>
Thought I pop in another question for my
mentors. I've been wanting to purchase a Rhomboid Wrasse for some time
now.
<Awesome fish!>
However, I've seen pairs at the LFS but never
of acceptable quality by my standards. I figured if I'm going to spend
that kind of money, it should be in perfect condition.
<I agree with
you 100%!>
Are Rhomboids really bad shippers? The ones I've seen
were
always pale, inactive, breathing heavy, white blotches on skin,
and with a few nips here and there. They told me that is how they
always come.
<Well, these fish tend to suffer during the collection
and shipping process. They are usually found in deeper water, and the
initial collection often leads to trauma. Then, like other fishes, they
have to endure a number of days without food, in poor water, while being
shipped to the wholesaler, dealer, and then to you. Little wonder that
they look to be in poor shape! My advice to you is to either place a
deposit on some at the LFS, and see if they will hold them for a few
days (to give them a chance to recover a it), or to pay the extra $$ and
get them from a online source like Marine Center or LiveAquaria.com.>
And when I try to wait out on them, they're always sold before I can get
another look. Well, the LFS has another Rhomboid in, but no pair, just
one male. Would the male lose color w/o the better half?
<Quite
possibly. With other species of wrasses to "flash" at, he might retain
some color, though>
And would it be wise to add just any non-pair
female if they come along later on?
<Ideally, you'd want one male to
two or three females. These fish are "haremic" in nature, and display
nicely when kept this way in the aquarium>
Another thing is, if they
are still in bad condition as before, which I expect, do you think I
should take a risk in buying it based on the aforementioned conditions?
<I'd see if they improve a bit in the dealer's tank, first, before
taking them home. See if he/she accepts a deposit>
I've waited and
waited. Just don't know how long I would
have to keep on
waiting. The LFS says they probably won't be getting any of them soon
after this one.
<Trust me on this- I'm a huge wrasse fan. I've missed
a bunch of rare fishes over the years 'cause I hesitated for various
reasons (like the ones you describe), but they always seem to be
available again down the line. Maybe not tomorrow, or even next month.
But eventually...It took me almost a year and a half to find a
"Peppermint" Hog Fish (B. masudai), but I eventually found a great
specimen. The same is true for many fairy and flasher wrasses. There
will be others out there. Unless the specimen is an absolute
one-of-a-kind, I would wait for a good-quality one.>
Tks for your
advice always.
Roy
<My pleasure, Roy! Don't give up the search.
It's part of the fun! Regards, Scott F> Fairy/Flasher Wrasse
questions
Thanks for your help in the past. Hope you might have
some more insights. I have a 180 fish and live rock tank. Mostly mellow
fish right now, except for a hyper Kole tang and flame angel.
<And
these are relatively easygoing...>
I am considering an attempt at
putting together a harem of fairy or flasher wrasses. Ultimately, it
would be with the plan to try to get them to breed. No one seems to
carry the females.
<Not as easily sold... due to color, finnage
differences... everyone wants the males it seems>
Do you know if this
has been done and whether it worked? Thanks.
<Yes, many times, many
places... Have seen these groupings mainly in public aquariums due to
size of tank requirements... but can be done. Bob Fenner> Fairy
wrasse
Hi Bob, it's me again. I just recently emailed you about
that HUFA and fish aggression question. Anyways, I finally found a
store, which is willing to make a trade for my red lip blenny. Of course
I'll probably have to pay some too. I looking for info on the
Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis fairy wrasse. The FAQs don't have any
questions about them. I'm asking because they are the only affordable
fairy wrasses, and they are just as pretty as most others. How do they
do as lone males?
<Fine, but won't be, stay as colorful as if
female/s were about... Bob Fenner.>
Do they need the females with
them to do well? Thanks for your help. Flame Wrasse
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Hi there>
How are you? Hope all is well. I hope
you can answer a few questions I have
regarding my recently purchased
male Flame Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus jordani).
<One of my favorite
species of a very favored genus:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cirrhilabrus.htm
my coverage and the FAQs
beyond... where your message will be archived.>
He resides in my 90
gal. reef aquarium. The Flame Wrasse is eating well, and
getting
along great with the other inhabitants (Purple and Yellow Tang). I
was wondering if it is necessary/beneficial to have a harem for him ¦in
terms
of psychological and/or physiological?
<Mmm, no. If
anything, in a tank of this size, you might try a single female>
Will
the intense coloration remain
the same or fade without the company of
females?
<Would be better with a female present>
I am inclined to
add
two/three females for him€¦what is a reasonable number, given the
space
availability.
<Exactly... the space is too small for any but
one other (female) individual. More females here would too likely lead
to more troubles than having none. Bob Fenner>
Regards,
Dan
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