Temminckii Wrasse... beh.    2/14/07
Hello,
<Shawn>
  I have a pair of these wrasses that i
<I...>
purchased from my LFS (male- female). The problem is that the male doesn't move around to
<too>
much just between 2 or three locations in the tank.
<Mmm, kind of what the species does in small/ish volumes>
When he gets to these areas he just lays there on the sand bottom
<Mmm, this is a bad indication>
and doesn't do much at all.  Before i forget they have been in the tank for almost 2 weeks this Friday
<Friday>
coming up will be the second week. I don't notice anything on the fish nothing visual at all. Is this normal behavour for this fish?
<Shouldn't rest on the bottom>
The other issue i am having is the female.  At first she was doing great moving
<moving>
all over hanging out with all of the other fish in the tank and eating fine. This Saturday i cleaned the inside of   he tank first time since the wrasses where introduced to the tank.   After i finished my cleaning duties i couldn't find the female anywhere.  I feed like normal she still was no where to be found (very unusual she was always in the mix of things when food was about) same to be said for Sunday. When i got home from work on Monday there she was on the sand bottom up against the glass not doing to much at all. Kinda like the male does all the time except she was in the wide open the male is usually under rock but you can see him still.  I did try feeding  she did seem to be eating a little but not much. Even when the lights went out she didn't even hide.
<Mmm, awful skittish, eh?>
So i guess what am asking is what do you think the problem could be. Or do you think she is not eating enough ????? my water is fine alk is 10 sal is 1.022
<Low... I'd keep this about 1.025>
ph is 8.3 to 8.6 depending day to night and no traces of nitrates and same for ammonia 0 thanks for your help
             Shawn Smith
<How large is this system? What are the other livestock? How much live rock do you have? Have you read re the genus on WWM? BobF>

Re: Temminckii Wrasse... beh.  Still not reading or using punctuation...   2/14/07
BOB,
<SHAWN>
I'm sorry i forgot to tell you all that stuff . The fish tank is 140 gal with about 125 lbs of live rock.
I have about 2 to 3 inches of live sand.
<Mmm, would have either more or less here... see WWM re>
As for the live stock i have 3 cleaner shrimp 1 yellowed eye tang a chocolate tang and a Naso tang and a coral bane shrimp. You stated small/ish volumes can you explain a little more in detail. thank you
Shawn Smith
<Oh, re behavior... much more "natural" behavior in large/r, less-crowded settings... Yours reads as fine here... I do hope that you don't have a problematical specimen. BobF>

My Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus is shaking ...   8/19/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<Diane>
I have had, what I believe to be a Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus, for about 4 months now.  It's between 4 and 5 inches long and really a beautiful fish. Up
until lately, it seemed to be eating, swimming, etc. quite normally.  I don't know how else to describe this but to say that for the past couple of
weeks, I notice that the fish has begun to shake when it's swimming around. It seems to be getting worse every day. Like a person would shake with
Parkinson's disease.  Is it having problems breathing?
<Do not believe so.>
Background:  My aquarium is 50 gal.  It has a refugium w/Euro protein skimmer. Water parameters are all normal. Salinity is 1.023.  Temp is usually between 77
and 81 degrees; occasionally has spiked higher though (86) when I had forgotten to turn the external fan on in the morning before leaving - and
once when we had a six hour power failure during a heat wave - (not fun) ... :o(
Other inhabitants are a yellow tang, blue tang, 2 clowns, 3 green Chromis, diamond goby, 6-line wrasse, and one Anthias.
<This tank is much too small for these fish, especially the tangs and your subject wrasse.>
An anemone,
<Not a good idea having an anemone with non-anemone tolerant fish, and corals.>
a few corals, snails, blue leg crabs and hermits.  Recently I had a red slime problem and was told by my LFS that I might be feeding them too much.
<More than likely from overcrowding than anything else.>
He suggested that I only feed them every other day to eliminate the red slime.  I did, and it worked, but I am concerned that I am not feeding them enough now.  I feed
them a variety of foods- i.e., frozen cubes, fish roe (from the sushi market), ground up shrimp, seaweed, Cyclop-eeze, plus a weekly regime of
different additives for the reef - DT-live or Microvert, calcium, alkalinity, etc.  I change out 10 gal. of water/week, plus have my LFS come
out once/month to do a complete cleaning and make sure everything is running properly.  Should I be concerned or is this normal behavior for this kind of
fish?  I did take a 15 sec. video of it tonight that I could email you if you want to take a look?
<If the fish appears to be itching himself on the substrate while doing this, the fish is exhibiting hunting behavior, trying to uncover crustaceans to munch on.
I've also observed this shuddering effect with other wrasses present as a "this is my territory" display.  Is this fish eating well.  The Pink Margin
Wrasse is not one of the easier ones to acclimate.  Keep an eye on him for signs of any parasitic type disease that may be developing.  Do read our
wrasse behavior FAQ's also, and related links above.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wrassebehfaqs1.htm>
Thank you for your help.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Diane

Re: My Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus is shaking ...   8/19/06
Thank you for the quick reply, James.
<You're welcome.>
I knew when I purchased the blue tang that he would eventually outgrow the tank.  My justification was to trade him back to my LFS when he gets too big and start again with a little one. He was about the size of a quarter when I got him - and he's now about the size of the circumference of a standard coffee cup.   The yellow tang is
about the same size.  Still, your point is well taken regarding the tank being too small.  
Regarding your questions about the wrasse - he is eating fine.  No, he's not itching himself at all on the substrate that I've noticed.  He lays behind
the rocks a lot and sometimes on the bottom of the sand.  At times, I've thought him dead because he's in sort of curved positions.  Then I'll see
his eyes move - or I put a net into the water to pick him up and he swims away without problem.  When I open the top of the aquarium,
<These fish are jumpers, so ensure the top of the tank is well covered.>
he usually comes right out looking for food.  He only seems to shudder when he's swimming around in the water.  So far - no parasitic type diseases on any of the fish
- but I'll keep watching...
<Do you have a fine sand substrate the wrasse can take cover/sleep in?>
Thank you for the link - I read a lot last night on your site - but I think I missed that one so will go back and read through it.  You and your team
provide such a wonderful service to the rest of us novices out here who so enjoy these beautiful creatures.  I can't imagine how you find the time to
do this.  But I'm glad that you do!
<Is a collective effort among the crew.>
Thanks again.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Diane

Re: My Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus is shaking ...
Yes, I do.  It's between 3-4 inches deep.  I have seen (and heard) him jump before so I do keep it covered. It's not a canopy on top, but two sets of
lights (power compact lighting) that go across with about an inch or so in between.  I place a fan on top every day to keep the air circulating and the
temperature down.  Just enough space to allow the cool air from the fan in.
Thanks again James - I'll keep reading and observing them - and considering a larger aquarium...
<Sounds good, James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Diane

Quarantine Or Not? - 03/03/06
WWM Crew,
<<Hello>>
As always thanks for all the work you do on this site.  It is a tremendous help to me and many other enthusiasts alike.
<<Rewarding to hear.>>
I have a question about a painted fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus solorensis?).
<<yes>>
I just purchased a 2" specimen along with a 2" raccoon butterfly (Chaetodon lunula).  I drip acclimated them for an hour and a half then moved both of them to a bare bottom 20 gallon long qt tank.
<<Mmm...>>
Inside the tank I have several different PVC fittings for them to hide in.  The butterfly is doing great and swimming around, but the
wrasse keeps trying to fit under the pipes.
<<Not unexpected.  QT is very useful and necessary, but at times/under certain conditions can do more harm than good.  I would give this fish a pH and temperature adjusted freshwater dip and place it in the display tank (you do have a suitable sand bed in the display, yes?>>
I know that they like to bury themselves in the sand, but I'm worried about him banging into the bottom of the pipes.
<<Indeed...and psychological damage as well.>>
Do you know of anything I could put in the qt tank that he could get under that would be better for him?
<<Not without compromising the QT tank.  Best to move to the display as explained.>>
Also if his behavior continues should I move him to the main tank after a few days?
<<I would do it without delay.>>
My main tank is a 95 gallons, 55 gallon sump, 110 pounds of live rock, 4" hippo tang, 7 blue green Chromis, two cleaner shrimp, and some Cerith and turbo snails.
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Cory
<<Regards, EricR>>

Bummed male flame wrasse
Hello Bob,
I'm sorry that you didn't have a chance to make it out to the Big Island last January. Would have been a hoot trying to dive though. All the usual shore diving spots were getting hammered and I mean HAMMERED with huge waves.
<Wish you were out here with us right now... still can... am here for another few weeks. Some hashers, ChuckR et ux. of WWM, Pete... and I are here>
On to the reason that I'm writing...
While out in Hawaii I caught a male and female Flame wrasse and shipped them back here to San Diego.
<Neat... Cirrhilabrus jordani... not easy to catch>
Arrived fine and have been happier than any other flame I've had before. Haven't really had an unhappy flame yet... till now. With in the past few days I've noticed that the male is all bloated like he has eaten too much. Not real sociable and out displaying. Still swimming fine but the bloating is a little more each day and I think he's gonna pop any day now. 
Really doesn't eat anymore, kind of pecks at some of the small bits that float by then goes back into hiding. Can't get the bugger out of my 125 gal reef setup to treat. All parameters for water quality are really groovy. My SPSs tell me when I've been less than diligent, well before the fish tell me. Problem seems to be an internal bacterial infection. The question being can I treat him in the reef system without damaging the setup (i.e. SPSs) since I can't get him out and with what do you suggest if I can.
Hope to hear back while there might still be hope.
Thanks,
Paul Witt
<Maybe (what I would do) try bolstering the fish's immune system through feeding, directly adding Selcon or equivalent to foods, the water... do whatever you can to spiff up water quality... Bob Fenner> 

Breeding Cirrhilabrus? 10/9/04
I'm trying to breed Cirrhilabrus wrasses, (Cirrhilabrus temminckii) and (Cirrhilabrus flavidorsalis?).  Do you guys have any pointers or info? Philip, S. El Monte
<hmmm... I am not aware of any significant hobby or commercial breeding/culture activity with this group of fishes. Do check into the database at the Breeder's Registry online... and perhaps the old TFH "Reproduction of Reef Fishes" for field observations that might give you insight to go on. From what we know, you will need very large and tall aquaria to begin to have any chance at successful pairings for their elaborate and extended mating "dances". Also, do think about visiting or chatting with the folks at some public aquaria like Atlantic in Riverhead NY where spawnings (no attempt at rearing) is an almost daily occurrence. Best regards, Anthony>

Breeding Cirrhilabrus II 10/11/04
Do you have a link to the website of the Atlantic public aquarium in Riverhead NY?  
<if you are going to succeed... you need to be more resourceful than that <G>: simply do a keyword search with the info given to you: "Atlantis Aquarium" "Riverhead, NY", etc... it will show up on the first google page of hits. Do help yourself, bub>
I would be totally interested if the fish are spawning like
crazy.  
<I have watched them spawn... and my NY friends say this is a regular occurrence in the evenings>
By tall aquaria, how tall are we talking about?  
<several meters - pool sized: much bigger than home aquaria, as they need a deep column of water to run to the surface for their mating rituals... like Centropyge angels>
I've already got four C. temminckii in quarantine, but I don't know if they're still in the female phase about to transition to being males or if they're immature males in development.  
<sex change can occur completely in as little as 10-14 day>
So far the pics on the internet I've seen are probably of
dominant(?) and subordinate males(?), (based on the elongated pelvic fins), but no females(?).  They are anywhere from 1 3/4" to 2" in length.  The pelvic fins on all of them are not elongated yet.  By the way thanks for the leads. Philip
<very best of luck! Anthony>

Fairy Wrasse Aggression 2/9/05
Good evening, WWM team. 
<Howdy>
I've really appreciated your advice dispensed via the site in the past, but I can't find a good answer to my current dilemma, so I'm asking in the hopes that you might have some thoughts. I recently added a grouping of four C. rubriventralis to my 100 gal. system, and am having some aggression issues amongst the group. The wrasses arrived in decent shape; all were just under 2 inches in length on arrival. They acclimatized quickly in quarantine, and I moved them to my main system after two weeks. The established residents are 2 ocellaris clowns and 4 L. amboinensis shrimp, all very happy (plus various snails, soft corals, feather dusters, etc.). Initially, everyone got along well. However, after about 10 days in the main system, the wrasse that had grown the most ("Bully") began bullying the others (but not the other residents). Bully would chase the other wrasses around the tank, eventually herding them into one of the back corners. If one moved from that area, they would be chased back. I haven't seen any real attacks; no wounds, fin tears, etc., but Bully is definitely chasing, bumping, and generally making live hard on the other three. 
<The establishment of a pecking order.>
It's now been a few days of this, and the other three have taken to hiding in the sand or rockwork during portions of the day.
<As long as there is not physical nipping, biting, wounds... it may settle down soon once the order is set>
Interestingly, Bully doesn't really act up during mealtimes, and everyone seems to be getting enough to eat. Water parameters have all been fine (undetectable NH4 & NO2, NO3 < 5, pH 8.2-8.3, sal. 1.025, Ca 400, dKH 11.2, temps 78-80 depending on lights). After reading all the material I can find online, my assumption is that all four were juveniles to start (as I originally wanted), but that Bully has started to make the change to a male. 
<Indeed possible>
The aggression, while stressing the other wrasses, seems like it could be within the normal range for this social phase. 
<Agreed>
If so, I don't want to disrupt things by isolating Bully and risk having one of the others start to change as well, leaving me with two males in too little space. At the same time, the bullying seems a bit excessive (my wife refers to it as domestic violence and is threatening to feed Bully to the cats). On top of that, the coloration of all four isn't so different yet that I can definitely tell the sex of each of the fish (I haven't found great male/female comparison photos), so they may all still be immature, or all have been male initially, although I don't think that's the case. If you'd like to see pictures, I can try to snap a few. The bottom line is that if I've got a problem fish on my hands, I'd rather isolate/trade/sell him (anything but turn him into sashimi for the cats) than risk the other three, but I'm not sure how to make the call whether to let this play out or intervene. Any thoughts? Thanks, Mark
<Without severe aggression... I'd wait it out a bit longer. Anthony>