Strange problem with a Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura
Hello again crew,
<Richard>
I have a problem with my Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse that I am hoping you can help me with. I have checked around the site and with my LFS and I am still unsure of what I am dealing with. First, my environment: I have a 90 gallon fish with invert system (just shrimp, feather duster worms, crabs, shrimp; no coral). Temp, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, and alk are all normal.
I noticed about a week or two ago that my Ruby Head's upper "lip" looked swollen; almost as if it was folding up on itself. But he otherwise behaved normally until a few days ago when I found him lying on the bottom. When he spotted me, he swam up and begged for food as usual. When I fed him some Spectrum 1mm pellets, he sped to scoop them up and then either flicked his head and spit it out or dodged it at the last moment.
<Both good clues>
With close observation I also noticed very small white material that appeared to look like hair or cilia on the inside of his lip. At this point I was thinking mouth fungus, although I had only heard of this in freshwater fish.
<These decomposers are everywhere...>
This concerned me so I called my LFS. They thought it may be a bacterial infection as a result from a wound in the mouth from pecking at something and suggested using Melafix (ugh).
<... no>
Not much help there, but now I wonder if it is bacterial. The explanation they offered sounded reasonable; I just didn't like the "fix".
<Is likely bacterial to some extent... but the cause...>
He still aggressively chased down food. He just didn't hold it down, so I decided to try something smaller. I fed some crushed flakes and he did manage to eat them. I've since been feeding Spectrum that has been softened up by soaking either in garlic extract or Selcon.
Fast forward to today. Now he is scratching his mouth directly on the live rock. No swiping his body on the rock ala Ick style; just his mouth. He is also holding open his left gill much wider than his right gill. Now I am thinking parasites perhaps?
<Mmm, not likely>
The gill opening (even though just one) also prompted me to test my water parameters again - still no problem there.
I have two quarantine tanks I can move him to. I have been delaying the move in hopes that his condition would improve since he is still eating albeit with some special preparation. It is now clear to me that he should be moved to QT and treated, but the big question is - treated with what?
Copper, antibiotics, antifungals, eye of newt?
<Wing of bat... none of the above>
I really do appreciate the time and effort each of you put into the site.
It is my first stop whenever looking for information about the hobby. Keep up the good work and thanks for reading this far!
~Rich
<I do believe in serendipity, the simplest explanation generally "filling the bill"... The most likely scenario here is that this Wrasse jumped, bumped its mouth (very common with Cirrhilabrus)... be patient... will fix itself. Bob Fenner>

Fairy wrasse quarantine - not? 1/12/2008
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
I'm learning from some of the WWM FAQs that a Cirrhilabrus solorensis is best dipped and placed in the display, without quarantine, correct?
<Often the case>
Along with the usual observation procedure, do you have any guidance for the duration of the dip with this particular species?
<A few minutes...>
I have formalin available, would it be wise to add that to the FW dip for this fish?
<Mmm, yes... but... I'd limit the bath to a minute or so if using... at "regular" strength>
For two days I have had this fish in a 30G QT setup, with PVC that it hides in at night. I sure don't want to doom this fish in QT if it's likely to die of stress. At the same time, I don't want to risk infecting the display tank.
<Believe me... I understand>
BTW, the wrasse appears healthy, active, and has a good appetite for Mysis.
Thanks,
Tom
<Good... a brief dip then, rather than an extended bath... to help assure external parasite removal. Bob Fenner>

Internal Parasite? Cirrhilabrus in quarantine for too long  12/7/07
Hello,
<Tyler>
I seem to be having a problem with a fairy wrasse that eats but doesn't want to put any weight on.
<Not uncommon... live in shoals that feed continuously during daylight hours... need to be supplied with food frequently in captivity... best via large, healthy refugiums>
He has been in my QT since August and I haven't felt comfortable enough to release him to my 135 gallon reef.
<... I would. It will NOT gain weight under present circumstances>
I assume that I'm dealing with an internal parasite?
<Mmm, no, not necessarily or likely>
I have tried Prazi-Pro, Metranidazole & recently have been adding Seachem's Focus to his food. Is there any other medication I could try?
<Yes... but I would not>
I would like for him to make the journey to my reef at some point. Thanks.
<I would place this fish, now. Bob Fenner>

Re: Internal Parasite?... Cirrhilabrus reading... using WWM  12/7/07
Thanks for the response. How long should I generally quarantine fairy wrasses for? Thanks.
<Please see WWM re the genus Health/Disease, and elsewhere on the site re Quarantine... the search tool, indices... RMF>
 

Eye on Lineatus Wrasse 11/23/07 Hi Crew, I appreciate all of your help over the years. I've been digging through the website but cannot find what I'm seeing with my male Lineatus Wrasse (kept just about a year). A few weeks back, he became lethargic with little appetite, had white stringy feces, would stay near the top of the tank, and then subsequent showed fin erosion and cloudy eyes. This all happened in matter of two days. No other fish showed ill effects. Based on reading and input from local fish stores, I treated for internal parasites with Jungle anti-parasite food per directions. This seemed to turn him around pretty quickly and was nearly back to normal in two weeks. His right eye was still a little cloudy. Today, I noticed the eye has become markedly white in the back half of his lens. I've attached a few pictures which I hope will be of help (I don't have a special lens for these situations). I was wondering if I should look into further treatment or if this will clear in time. The white seems entirely contained d within the lens. You'll notice his fins are still eroded, but this is improving each day. Your help is greatly appreciated. Ian <Looks to be recovering from a physical trauma... likely a jump incident. I would prescribe just good care here. Bob Fenner>

Rhomboid injury... jumper   11/07/07 Hi Guys & Gals @ WWM, <Dustin> Thanks so much in advance for any help you can give me with my problem. I have searched the web and your web site, especially the FAQ's on wrasse diseases, with no luck finding a diagnosis to my fish's wound. <This is what this is... a very typical Cirrhilabrus "jump" trauma... the genus, and a few other Labrids, is notorious for taking a shot for the stars... in this case, cutting a chunk out of its topside...> This evening I came to watch the spectators in my aquarium for a little while before heading to bed and I found this white spot on the back of my prize rhomboid wrasse. I had only been in watched them a couple hours earlier with no signs of trauma. <Only takes a moment> I am no expert but it does not look bacterial nor parasitic, but almost like a gouge wound. <Agreed> My tank parameters are as follows: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 5, temp 79.5 F, calcium 450, Alk 3.5 55 Gallon Reef Tank with the following inhabitants: 1 - 4.5" Magnificent Foxface (Siganus magnifica) <Needs more room than this> 1 - 3" Rhomboid wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rhomboidalis) 1 - 2" Potters Angel (Centropyge potteri) 2 - 1.5" Green Chromis (Chromis viridis) 2 Hitchhiker urchins 1 Medium/Large Rose Bubble Tip Anemone 2 Euphyllia sp. corals (Hammer, Frogspawn) 3 Acropora corals 1 Sarcophyton Leather <Will all need more room in time...> My best guess at what this injury may have stemmed from would be that of a poisonous Foxface spine or from darting around the tank and getting jabbed by one of the urchins. <Nah!> It looks like what I would expect fish flesh to look like. I will include 2 pictures following. One I took hours before I notice the wound and the second is the best shot I could get of the would. <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc266/fittiger/rhomboidwound1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc266/fittiger/rhomboidnowound.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a> I'm a bit panicky at the moment so please excuse any courtesies that I may have forgotten. Thanks again for any help. Sincerely afraid of losing this wrasse, Dustin <No worries... this wound doesn't appear too severe... I would do nothing overt here... Just leave the fish in place... consider where you're going to put that much larger system... Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Cirrhilabrus dis.  10/23/07
Hi <Hey Joshua> I just bought a Scott's fairy wrasse.
<One of my favorite fish, they are spectacular!>
It's been three or four days and he has a white firm over his I any suggestions
<I’m going to assume that you mean “white film over his eye”. This could be bacterial or parasitic and is the reason why you should quarantine new fish. Please read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i4/quarantine/Quarantine.htm a well as the other links at the bottom of the article for treatment advise. Good luck!! – Brian Griffin>

Wrasse pectoral fin injury, Cirrhilabrus hlth., sel.  8/29/07
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a male Hawaiian fairy wrasse
<Cirrhilabrus jordani I take it>
which has been fine in my 72 gallon tank with plenty of live rock and a mixed crushed coral/aragonite sand substrate.
The wrasse shares the tank with a Rabbitfish, False Percula, Chromis, and fridmani Pseudochromis.
The other night I happened to be up around 2am and heard an odd sound in my tank. The sound was either a bumping sound (perhaps my acrylic lid tank covers) or mechanical(possibly a powerhead). Either way, I noticed the next morning that my Wrasse's pectoral fin seemed non-functional and the fish made efforts of swimming about but with some difficulty. The incident occurred when all the tank lights were out....also that same morning, I noticed a 4-inch branch of one of my Acroporas was broken off too. My guess is that the fish got spooked or something...maybe even gotten too close to the powerhead intake vents.
So the fish eventually swimmed
<swam>
to the rear/bottom of the tank and with rapid breathing. As of now, I don't know if he's hiding or possibly consumed by the tanks crustaceans...all my tank lights are on and I don't see him.
Is it possible for fish to heal from such a wound (even if it's a broken fin?). I don't see any tears or other signs of stress to the fin.
<Possibly... Fairy/Velvet Wrasses are real "jumpers"...>
Is it wise to attempt to capture and confine the fish to heal in a quarantine tank?
Or would the stress of acquiring the fish be too much stress and cause potentially more harm?
<I would leave this fish in place>
Any thoughts?
thank you!
Walter
<Better for this species to be kept in a haremic setting... one male and a few females... even better in a biotopic setting... None of its tankmates you list are found in its geographical range. Bob Fenner>

My Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus is shaking ...   8/19/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<Diane>
I have had, what I believe to be a Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus, for about 4 months now.  It's between 4 and 5 inches long and really a beautiful fish. Up
until lately, it seemed to be eating, swimming, etc. quite normally.  I don't know how else to describe this but to say that for the past couple of
weeks, I notice that the fish has begun to shake when it's swimming around. It seems to be getting worse every day. Like a person would shake with
Parkinson's disease.  Is it having problems breathing?
<Do not believe so.>
Background:  My aquarium is 50 gal.  It has a refugium w/Euro protein skimmer. Water parameters are all normal. Salinity is 1.023.  Temp is usually between 77
and 81 degrees; occasionally has spiked higher though (86) when I had forgotten to turn the external fan on in the morning before leaving - and
once when we had a six hour power failure during a heat wave - (not fun) ... :o(
Other inhabitants are a yellow tang, blue tang, 2 clowns, 3 green Chromis, diamond goby, 6-line wrasse, and one Anthias.
<This tank is much too small for these fish, especially the tangs and your subject wrasse.>
An anemone,
<Not a good idea having an anemone with non-anemone tolerant fish, and corals.>
a few corals, snails, blue leg crabs and hermits.  Recently I had a red slime problem and was told by my LFS that I might be feeding them too much.
<More than likely from overcrowding than anything else.>
He suggested that I only feed them every other day to eliminate the red slime.  I did, and it worked, but I am concerned that I am not feeding them enough now.  I feed
them a variety of foods- i.e., frozen cubes, fish roe (from the sushi market), ground up shrimp, seaweed, Cyclop-eeze, plus a weekly regime of
different additives for the reef - DT-live or Microvert, calcium, alkalinity, etc.  I change out 10 gal. of water/week, plus have my LFS come
out once/month to do a complete cleaning and make sure everything is running properly.  Should I be concerned or is this normal behavior for this kind of
fish?  I did take a 15 sec. video of it tonight that I could email you if you want to take a look?
<If the fish appears to be itching himself on the substrate while doing this, the fish is exhibiting hunting behavior, trying to uncover crustaceans to munch on.
I've also observed this shuddering effect with other wrasses present as a "this is my territory" display.  Is this fish eating well.  The Pink Margin
Wrasse is not one of the easier ones to acclimate.  Keep an eye on him for signs of any parasitic type disease that may be developing.  Do read our
wrasse behavior FAQ's also, and related links above.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wrassebehfaqs1.htm>
Thank you for your help.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Diane

Re: My Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus is shaking ...   8/19/06
Thank you for the quick reply, James.
<You're welcome.>
I knew when I purchased the blue tang that he would eventually outgrow the tank.  My justification was to trade him back to my LFS when he gets too big and start again with a little one. He was about the size of a quarter when I got him - and he's now about the size of the circumference of a standard coffee cup.   The yellow tang is
about the same size.  Still, your point is well taken regarding the tank being too small.  
Regarding your questions about the wrasse - he is eating fine.  No, he's not itching himself at all on the substrate that I've noticed.  He lays behind
the rocks a lot and sometimes on the bottom of the sand.  At times, I've thought him dead because he's in sort of curved positions.  Then I'll see
his eyes move - or I put a net into the water to pick him up and he swims away without problem.  When I open the top of the aquarium,
<These fish are jumpers, so ensure the top of the tank is well covered.>
he usually comes right out looking for food.  He only seems to shudder when he's swimming around in the water.  So far - no parasitic type diseases on any of the fish
- but I'll keep watching...
<Do you have a fine sand substrate the wrasse can take cover/sleep in?>
Thank you for the link - I read a lot last night on your site - but I think I missed that one so will go back and read through it.  You and your team
provide such a wonderful service to the rest of us novices out here who so enjoy these beautiful creatures.  I can't imagine how you find the time to
do this.  But I'm glad that you do!
<Is a collective effort among the crew.>
Thanks again.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Diane

Re: My Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus is shaking ...
Yes, I do.  It's between 3-4 inches deep.  I have seen (and heard) him jump before so I do keep it covered. It's not a canopy on top, but two sets of
lights (power compact lighting) that go across with about an inch or so in between.  I place a fan on top every day to keep the air circulating and the
temperature down.  Just enough space to allow the cool air from the fan in.
Thanks again James - I'll keep reading and observing them - and considering a larger aquarium...
<Sounds good, James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Diane
 

Laboutei With Lesion  6/20/06 This is my fourth attempt at this email.  I have removed the second part of the name of the fish, since it may trigger profanity filters.  Here goes... Hello WWM crew, <Hello Eric> I hope you are well. <So far, so good.> I purchased a trio of Labouti <Laboutei> from an online vendor about 13 days ago.   I did not QT based on something I read which suggested these fish did not do well in QT. <Should be no problem, a relatively hardy fish.> One of the females died after about 3 days, presumably from the stresses of shipping and acclimation.  The other 2 fish seemed to be doing fine.  Both are out and about, picking at the LR, and eating frozen brine, krill, and Mysis, even some flake and pellet food. Anyway, about 6 days ago I noticed this nasty lesion on the female.  It looks similar in size, shape and color to a human zit.  I know, because I have pics, that there was no sign of this problem several days before.  It does not seem to have grown in size since, and the fish is apparently unaffected based on its behavior. I have scoured the web, including your site, for a disease or parasite the fits this description, so I am thinking possibly physical damage of some sort, perhaps bitten by another fish.  I have attached a photo of the fish for your perusal. Please, can you tell me what is wrong with this fish and what I should do for it, if anything? <Eric, looking at the photo I'm thinking Lymphocystis, not absolutely positive.  Bob may have a more accurate ID of this.  Being it will be nearly impossible to net the fish out for treatment, I suggest observing, see if the matter gets worse.  Not really a good idea to treat the whole tank, but if you are lucky enough to net him out and place in QT, I would treat with Malachite Green.> Thanks in advance, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Eric. P.S.  Here is a link to a thread I've started on another forum.  More pictures posted there. Thread <http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=869266>

- Please help, sick wrasse! 6/15/06 -
I have a 4 year-old Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse that I fear is ill. It's left eye is bulging out and distorted. It still eats well, but is more shy and spends most of the day hiding among the live rock, but otherwise seems relatively ok. It's color is good and doesn't seem to be breathing abnormally. Is there some kind of disease that would cause this? <Sounds to me like Popeye, although I'd look carefully at this eye to make certain it doesn't look like it has an air bubble in there. If it is just swollen then it can heal and return to normal.> Is there some kind of treatment I can give it? <Not directly. You could add some Epsom salts - about one tablespoon per five gallons (which will effect your salinity) to help with the swelling. Not much else you could do beyond catching the fish and letting it recover in a quiet tank by itself.> It is housed in a 120 gal. with a percula clown, a pajama cardinal, and a 21 year-old pair maroon clown and large carpet anemone. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as I have grown quite attached to the beautiful wrasse. <Mostly I can wish you luck and we can both hope for the best.>
Sincerely,
Josh C.
Atlanta, GA
<Cheers, J -- >

Laboutei wrasse with Popeye possibly injury
Hi, I have a 5 inch male Laboutei who injured his eye from a lanceolatus fairy wrasse which is going to be sold by tomorrow. Now once I get rid of the trouble maker what is the best medication I can use to help him. I was thinking  
of Maracyn 2. Any suggestions crew? :)
<Minocycline is very safe, though not likely to be effective here... I myself would just "hold-off" and wait/see if this self cures (likely). If not, in a few weeks I might try a level teaspoon of Epsom salt per ten gallons of system water. You can search, read re this procedure on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Quarantine Or Not? - 03/03/06
WWM Crew,
<<Hello>>
As always thanks for all the work you do on this site.  It is a tremendous help to me and many other enthusiasts alike.
<<Rewarding to hear.>>
I have a question about a painted fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus solorensis?).
<<yes>>
I just purchased a 2" specimen along with a 2" raccoon butterfly (Chaetodon lunula).  I drip acclimated them for an hour and a half then moved both of them to a bare bottom 20 gallon long qt tank.
<<Mmm...>>
Inside the tank I have several different PVC fittings for them to hide in.  The butterfly is doing great and swimming around, but the
wrasse keeps trying to fit under the pipes.
<<Not unexpected.  QT is very useful and necessary, but at times/under certain conditions can do more harm than good.  I would give this fish a pH and temperature adjusted freshwater dip and place it in the display tank (you do have a suitable sand bed in the display, yes?>>
I know that they like to bury themselves in the sand, but I'm worried about him banging into the bottom of the pipes.
<<Indeed...and psychological damage as well.>>
Do you know of anything I could put in the qt tank that he could get under that would be better for him?
<<Not without compromising the QT tank.  Best to move to the display as explained.>>
Also if his behavior continues should I move him to the main tank after a few days?
<<I would do it without delay.>>
My main tank is a 95 gallons, 55 gallon sump, 110 pounds of live rock, 4" hippo tang, 7 blue green Chromis, two cleaner shrimp, and some Cerith and turbo snails.
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Cory
<<Regards, EricR>>

Exquisite Wrasse  - 2/15/2006
Hello,
<Hi there>
I recently purchased an exquisite wrasse who now resides in my Quarantine Tank.  The wrasse is having a major problem swimming.  He lies on his back most of the time but breathes normal.  When I feed him, he scoots himself along to catch the food.  What type of condition could he have and what medicines are available to treat this.  All of my tank parameters are normal.  I don't want to lose him.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.
<Having chased this species a number of times underwater I am surprised any arrive in live condition... this is one of the species I would do a pre-emptory dip/bath on and place in a large, established (hundreds of gallons, lots of live rock, reef) aquarium... and hope that it lives. Bob Fenner.

Fish swimming vertical 12-19-05
I've had a tri-colored fairy wrasse in my tank for 3 weeks now.  It is swimming vertical instead of horizontal and it's struggling to swim at all.  Some of his fins are slightly frayed which I am guessing is a secondary infection of fin rot.  It isn't gasping and has no other signs of infection that I can see.  I did notice shortly after I got the fish that he had white stringy feces, but thought this was due to stress.  
<Nope, it was actually internal parasites.>
I am moving him to a quarantine tank, but am wondering if this is a sign of a bacterial, parasite, or some other infection and what is the best way to treat the fish?  
<Parasitic infection complicated by a possible secondary bacterial infection of the swim bladder.>
Should I lower the salinity in my quarantine tank?
<Can't hurt at this point.>
Is it likely that my other fish will get sick as well?  
<It is possible that they will catch the internal parasites, but if their immune system is strong they should be able to fight it off.  If they show any sign of white feces, pull them and treat them right away in a QT or begin treating them with medicated foods.>
I would really appreciate any advice that you could give me and I love your website, you guys do a great job.
<Happy Holidays, Travis>
Thank you,
Thresa Aguayo  

Longfin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis), choked on tako? 10/25/05
Howdy,
<You as well>
Love your site, good book too.
<Welcome>
I had purchased 3 Longfin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis), mail order. I put them into the quarantine, one died the next day. 
<This genus... and Parachelinius, Pseudocheilinus... others... often takes a beating in transit (they don't ship well at times)>
He didn't look so hot from the get go and was refunded. Two weeks went by with no problems, they were eating everything, acting normally. Then today I fed them some squid, which is nothing new, I've done it before, I rotate through 6 or so different foods. 
The dominant wrasse came up ate a few pieces as usual, then pulled a slightly larger piece, swallowed it, spit it out, then started tearing at it like an alligator, rolling and twisting, then started darting around, having seizures, then began laying at the bottom, changing color like crazy, breathing heavy, then died about 30 minutes later. 
Water is great, I change it every other day, and there is nothing dangerous in the tank. This fish did have a strange bluish colored right eye, but no other signs of any problems ever. Any ideas?
<Sounds like a bit "got stuck" in its buccal cavity or branchiostegals (gill arches)... trouble... I would only offer such tough food/s as small bits. Bob Fenner> 

Fairy Wrasse with ich - alternate treatments 8/8/05
I have had a Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis wrasse in QT for 3 weeks now.  He has had mild ich from the get go so I took the salinity down to 1.011 measured with a lab grade hydrometer.  I thought we were over it but yesterday I looked in and he's a mass of white spots! I am tired of this and am going to treat the fish with copper, unless these fish are oversensitive.  Is this a good idea?
<Fairy wrasses are at least somewhat sensitive to copper IMO. I'm not a big fan of it as it is. If it were my fish, I'd do freshwater dips from a QT tank near daily for 5 days while adding garlic and B12 to the water>
cheers, Wayne Oxborough. Norway
<With kind regards, Anthony>

Lineatus Fairy Wrasse With Injured Jaw - 07/02/05
Hi, I have a beautiful lineatus fairy wrasse, appears to have a injured  jaw, I had a Aust Scott's wrasse in the tank with him, he was the boss, he never attacked him but he startled him flaring up to him showing he is king and I suspected that he banged his jaw against the glass.  It doesn't look broken but it is gapped a little and he can't close his mouth.  Will he recover from this  
injury? He shows interest in food and takes some of the smaller pieces in his mouth, kind of shakes his head after taking a few pieces in. Is there anything I can do for him.  I really don't want to lose him.  He swims just find by the way, flaring his fins and swimming proud.  Thanks, Scott.
<<Well Scott, difficult to say what might be the problem here.  Aside from immediate danger from internal injury (if present), the real problems are going to be whether this fish can still eat properly and in enough quantity to survive, and/or secondary infection from an open wound.  My recommendation would be to remove the fish to a quarantine/hospital tank where you can watch it more closely, medicate IF it becomes necessary, and feed and recover (hopefully!) free from the stresses of the display tank.  Regards, Eric R.>>

Bummed male flame wrasse
Hello Bob,
I'm sorry that you didn't have a chance to make it out to the Big Island last January. Would have been a hoot trying to dive though. All the usual shore diving spots were getting hammered and I mean HAMMERED with huge waves.
<Wish you were out here with us right now... still can... am here for another few weeks. Some hashers, ChuckR et ux. of WWM, Pete... and I are here>
On to the reason that I'm writing...
While out in Hawaii I caught a male and female Flame wrasse and shipped them back here to San Diego.
<Neat... Cirrhilabrus jordani... not easy to catch>
Arrived fine and have been happier than any other flame I've had before. Haven't really had an unhappy flame yet... till now. With in the past few days I've noticed that the male is all bloated like he has eaten too much. Not real sociable and out displaying. Still swimming fine but the bloating is a little more each day and I think he's gonna pop any day now. 
Really doesn't eat anymore, kind of pecks at some of the small bits that float by then goes back into hiding. Can't get the bugger out of my 125 gal reef setup to treat. All parameters for water quality are really groovy. My SPSs tell me when I've been less than diligent, well before the fish tell me. Problem seems to be an internal bacterial infection. The question being can I treat him in the reef system without damaging the setup (i.e. SPSs) since I can't get him out and with what do you suggest if I can.
Hope to hear back while there might still be hope.
Thanks,
Paul Witt
<Maybe (what I would do) try bolstering the fish's immune system through feeding, directly adding Selcon or equivalent to foods, the water... do whatever you can to spiff up water quality... Bob Fenner> 

Cirrhilabrus
<MikeD here>
This may be an odd question to ask, but what is the normal color of a fairy wrasse's droppings?  I had Cirrhilabrus wrasses of several kinds before, and have noticed some have white droppings.  Of course other times, they seem normal, and are an olive green coloration.  What causes them to have white droppings?<The normal explanation is that it depends upon the diet, just as with any other animal, with whatever goes in determining whatever comes out....sort of like corn in humans>  While I'm quarantining this species of fish, if I had to treat for external parasites, how do I do so without killing them?  Apparently, freshwater baths are out of the question for this fish.<My suggestion would be a formalin type medication if possible, and as with any fish of a delicate nature, using 1/2 the normal dosage is a wise precaution>  Also while I'm at it, does any one know the life span of a fairy wrasse?<As with most marine fishes, that's a no. The hobby simply hasn't been going full steam long enough to make judgments on most species, with the best reliable information coming from public marine aquariums. wild specimens, of course, never live an "average" lifespan as the fish is removed from the food chain when it becomes lax or infirm>
Philip

Disease?
My main tank recently crashed due to velvet. Unfortunately I found your site while I was
attempting to fix the problem rather than before the tank was set up. From the FAQ I
see I'm not the only one.
<No my friend>
I'm two weeks into a 6-8 week fallow period for the main tank and have set up a quarantine tank.
The one remaining fish (a blue and gold blenny, looks like a Midas with a blue belly) was moved
to quarantine 2 weeks ago and is doing OK.
Since I have the quarantine tank running I recently purchased another Percula clown and a
flame wrasse. I followed the method described on wetwebmedia.com: acclimation, fresh water
dip with Methylene Blue (2 min each), then into the QTank. Today, due to the reflection off the bottom of the
tank, I noticed the wrasse has a dark patch under his gills; dark blue maybe black. My daughter
mentioned she saw this when he was in the bag, but I missed it. It is eating, but somewhat lethargic.
<Hmm. Maybe nothing.>
I can't see into the gills to check for infection there. It's respiration is slightly elevated. A few times
it was swimming beside the clown similar to the way a tang swims next to a cleaner shrimp.
Do you have any other advice? I'm tired of losing fish.
<If this specimen looks otherwise fine, I would run it through a pH adjusted freshwater dip and place it in your main/display system. Cirrhilabrus species wrasses do take a beating in quarantine (they're quite shy, and eat, need to eat a bunch of "little meals" during the day... I would dip/bathe and place this specimen. Bob Fenner>

Re: disease?
Thanks for the prompt reply. I hope that your family and friends are safe
after the events of the past day.
<<Thank you my friend. Sense that no one feels safe.>>
<If this specimen looks otherwise fine, I would run it through a pH adjusted
freshwater dip and place it in your main/display system. Cirrhilabrus
species wrasses do take a beating in quarantine (they're quite shy, and eat,
need to eat a bunch of "little meals" during the day... I would dip/bathe
and place this specimen. Bob Fenner>
Rather than letting the tank run without fish for 4 more weeks? I don't
want to loose the flame wrasse, but I need to consider the long term health
of the main tank. One fish now or many fish in the future. Based on the
wetwebmedia.com info, the fallow tank seems to be rather important.
<Oh, sorry for the confusion. Not able to follow so many conversations... do you have another system to move this fish to that has been up a while, has healthy live rock? Bob Fenner>

A quick disease question: Cirrhilabrus
Robert, I want to thank you for answering my past emails. I have really
appreciated it.
<You're welcome.>
I have a new Red Sea Regal. It seems to have problems controlling its body,
spending almost all of the time head down. Then it spins madly out of
control for a few minutes before settling down again. It is eating and
otherwise looks fine. No visible wounds or spots. It is breathing heavily,
but not in the extreme.
<Yikes... likely either a residual effect of collection... or a brain-involved parasitic disorder... in either case, best to try to keep the animal fed, be patient, hope for self-cure>
By the way, I recently sent you an email about fairy wrasses and whether the
flame (jordani) wrasse could sustain higher temperatures over time. I have
communicated with a lot of people and am getting the consensus that the
jordani wrasse would survive but not thrive at temperatures over 82.
<Yes>
Although the Hawaiian waters are some warmer at the surface, I guess the
jordani is deep water fish where the temperatures are cooler. 
<Hmm, yes... but the water does approach the upper seventies in the warmer months where they are found... Dive around Molokini, Maui and see, feel for yourself>
Some
speculated that it is a question of oxygen supply.
<Good point... higher temp. means lower gas solubility, elevated metabolism...>
Anyway, I do not know if
it means anything, but I thought I would pass it along.
<Thank you for this... will post on our www.WetWebMedia.com site under the Cirrhilabrus FAQs. Bob Fenner>
Matt Davis, Seattle

Wrasse Disease
Gentlemen:
<Good, sir. Anthony Calfo in your service>
I have a painted fairy wrasse amongst the 10 inhabitants of my 125G FOWLR tank. All water parameters are OK. Only recently have I noticed that the
animal is not eating and is having difficulty closing his mouth. It seems
that his breathing may be labored. I see nothing physically wrong as far as
spots or markings. I have tried feeding both krill and silversides with no
success
<does the fish do any scratching/glancing... and are both gills pumping similarly or is one gill favored or closed?>
Since this animal buries himself at night, I am wondering if there are any
problems with my substrate. I say this because about 1 year ago, I had a
Christmas wrasse that developed a discoloration on his lip that precluded
him from eating as well. The Xmas wrasse also buried himself at night.
<hmmmm... how long have you had the wrasse, and what are your exact water quality parameters?>
I would appreciate your input and suggestions in an effort to save the
painted wrasse. I would hate to lose him, as he is a beautiful specimen.
<yes, a magnificent fish. Do you have a quarantine tank to use if necessary?>
Thanks, Mitch
<kindly, Anthony>

Pale patch on wrasse and sick polyps
Hi WWM Crew, my wrasse's caudal peduncle seems to have faded on both sides and lost it's pink coloration normal of a Lubbock's fairy wrasse. The spot is not white (typical of a parasite infection), but clear, and looks like it has lost pigment. 
<symmetrical changes in color indeed usually are not pathogenic indications alone>
There is also a place on the pale patch where it looks raised in places, almost like the skin has peeled up. 
<Hmmm... do look at pictures of fishes in the archives and beyond with "dropsy" like symptoms (bacterial)... a possibility here.>
I've had the wrasse for about 6 months, and this condition has been here for about 3 weeks. I don't know if this helps, but ever since I have had the fish there has been a very small red cut or scar that has never fully healed. This scar is right next to the fading patch of skin. 
<ahhh... indeed an easy entrance for bacteria... do look hard. Consider QT with broad spectrum antibiotics (Furan/Nitrofuran drugs possibly... no Maracyn please for this)>
The only other fish, a cherub angel, is healthy as usual. All invertebrates are doing well (snails, GSP, mushrooms, shrimps, crabs, brittle stars), with the exception of a colony of button polyps that are succumbing to some unknown infection (They are also fading in patches and shriveling up one by one). Have you ever heard of a condition like this? 
<ironically may be bacterial as well... but certainly unrelated>
Should I be worried? Any way to reverse it? 
<take out and scrub with a soft bristled brush like a toothbrush... rinse (discard water) and return to tank with stronger water flow. Feed weekly if they are larger polyps (Palythoa or Protopalythoa species). Perhaps a little iodine in the tank if you have been lax>
Thanks for any help!
<best regards, Anthony>

Scott's Fairy Wrasse with infection
I have Scott's Fairy Wrasse with a huge swollen blister or growth on the bottom of his lip. His color has dulled and his top yellow fins are darkening. I have been reading about diseases and I think this is a bacteria. 
<I would agree that this is likely>
Please let me know what you think and what kind of antibiotic could I treat it with. Thanks.
<A Furazolidone and Nitrofurazone cocktail (like Jungle brand "Fungus Eliminator" at double strength in a bare bottomed QT tank). Medicate three times in 5 days minimum. Also feeding medicated food if the fish will take it would be nice. You may also do a topical swab of the lip (Q-tip carefully... avoid the eyes and gills) when moving the fish to the QT. Iodine or Mercurochrome will work fine (as with people). dilute slightly. Leave in QT for 2-4 weeks (4 preferably) Best regards, Anthony>
Carmina Perez

Peppermint shrimp, Aiptasia & fairy wrasses 11/17/03
Dear Anthony:
<cheers, Connie>
Maybe I missed something here, but my understanding is that the shrimp eat the Aiptasia.  
<you are correct. L. wurdemanni does eat anemones... but it is not exclusive and often nips corals and clams just the same. Not exactly reef-safe in the long run>
We are getting a substantial amount of Aiptasia, really too much to inject it all (and it seems to spread like crazy).  
<its better to control the nutrients/problem (overfeeding, messy feeding/weak water flow, etc) than treat the symptom (the Aiptasia)>
So we got several shrimp.  I can only find one now and he is larger than the others.
<hard to say... they are somewhat secretive... perhaps others are still alive?>
Question:  Are my wrasses shrimp-eaters???  
<if large enough... most are>
They are all small but hungry fish.  I'm afraid I'll ruin my live rock with continuous injections of white vinegar (out of the tank, then rock scrubbed, have been using tap water for this)
Another question:  My husband ordered two Laboutei Fairy Wrasses for me as a gift. On the first shipment, female survived acclimation fine, male died.  Second shipment, another male died.  Before I order another male, is there something over and above the ordinary acclimation for these fish.  
<they are simply just very sensitive fishes to ship. I rarely recommend mail ordering fishes... and I would almost never do so for wrasses>>
Now that I have the female I would really like the male.  I had two gorgeous rosy finned fairy wrasse and the handsome male jumped out of the tank about a month ago.  They are almost impossible to get. Marine Center tells me that the  Laboutei doesn't travel too well.  
<correct indeed>
Please help me Anthony. Ciao Connie
<my advice is to pay the extra for a local retailer to order and acclimate one for a week... well worth it rather than killing cheaper mail order ones <G>.>
PS:  Can't seem to get in touch with person doing arrangements for your visit to Palo Alto in February.  Do you have a phone number for her?
<I do... but I should check with her before sharing it. In the meantime... I recently learned that the tentative schedule is for a trip to Monterey Friday, Meeting Saturday, and then social pot-luck meal/gathering at Cheri's house on Sunday. I'm hoping she'll have something posted on the SeaBay website soon too. Do holler back at me if you don't hear something first :) kindly, Anthony>