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DSB and Berlin system - 08/05/07 Hi Crew! <Hi Casey!> I've been planning out a 29 gallon reef (my first one) for a while now. I'm pretty set on using the Berlin method. Currently the tank is a fish only with a sailfin molly and a false clown. I'll be curing live rock soon and then, maybe in a few months (or longer) I'll add some corals and other inverts. I've got an Aqua C Remora up and running and when the LR moves in, the old power filter is moving out. What do you say about substrate when using Berlin? <Berlin system (named for the residence of the developers) sensu stricto means: Plenty of live rock, strong skimming of surface water (sometimes in a sump), strong current, carbon, dosing of trace elements, Kalkwasser and strong lighting. Following the original philosophy, no or only a thin layer of substrate is employed, because substrate was thought to become a nitrate factory.> I currently have very rough grade crushed coral because that is what the store had at the time and I never dreamed of converting to a reef (nor did I know much of anything about salt aquaria). I hate it (The crushed coral, that is), but I want a substrate. Can I do a DSB? <Oh yes.> I was thinking of using sugar grain sized aragonite. <Okay.> I figure I can move it in before I begin curing my rock (I can use my curing setup to house the fish while I do the transfer). <I'd start with the rock (possibly on a thin sheet of Styrofoam) and then add the sand. If you simply put the rocks onto the sand, the rock work will be much less stable.> I expect it would be a good idea to at least seed it with some live sand as well (I can't afford an entire bed of live sand) to get the sand-specific flora that won't come off the rock. Right? <Live sand is ok, but even better is a little well populated sand from another hobbyists tank. You can use that to seed your aragonite.> The reason I ask is because I've read a lot about Berlin systems embracing the bare-bottom and I absolutely hate the way that looks! So, I guess the question is: does Berlin just embrace a bare bottom, or does it require one? <You can have a DSB, if it has a minimum depth of 4 inches (See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm and the linked files for more information, maintenance advice and further opinions), but I would not call it Berlin anymore. The DSB will produce nitrates, but it will also provide natural nitrate reduction and ultimately turn organic waste into harmless gaseous nitrogen. Most of my smaller tanks have been/are like what you are thinking about. Very easy to maintain and the DSB sometimes even provides enough natural nitrification and denitrification so the skimmers had to be taken out of some of the systems to leave at least minimum nitrates and phosphates for the corals.> Thanks for your time and your wonderful site. <You are welcome.> I don't know where I'd be without it (probably the fish graveyard). <Okay, but don't go through the woods to bury them at the ancient Micmac burial ground'¦> -Casey <Cheers, Marco.> 30 gallon aquarium with Eheim 2234, media for a can. stkg. a small SW... 7/27/07 Hello, <Hi to you> I've just started my first saltwater tank, and the tank is "vacant" at the moment as it is cycling. However, I do have a couple of questions: 1. I am planning on adding about 20 to 25 pounds of live rock to provide bio filtration and I also have Eheim 2234 Ecco canister filter. What type of media would you recommend for this type of filter to get the best water filtration possible and how would layer each media. Eheim's webpage is limited in that regards and I would like to use other media (Marineland, Seachem) to achieve the best results? <I would use the Eheim media (it's superior), the ceramic, coarse, fine and perhaps occasionally place carbon... last in the order of flow path> Im also planning on buying AquaC Remora protein skimmer and would like to find out what would be the best possible combination of filter media to maintain healthy looking aquarium. <...? Filter media in the skimmer? There is none> Im planning on adding 2 percula clownfish, 2 firefish and 2 chromis and a tank cleaning crew. <... Not the Chromis along with the Clowns here... and really not the Microdesmid... Please, research before acquisition... WWM... re Compatibility, Systems...> Thanks for your help!! <Keep reading and you'll likely do fine... if nothing else you'll make less mistakes, understand the ones you do make better. Bob Fenner> Possibility of connecting multiple nano reef tanks to one refugium 7/12/07 Hello I have been spending a lot of time reading your site, and looking on the web through google. I really like your web site. Keep up the good work. I have not been able to find the answer to this question. What I have been thinking of doing is getting 3 separate 14 gallon Oceanic BioCube, and drilling a bulkhead hole in the back just above the sump pump. Then I would like to send the output of each of the pumps to a single AquaFuge Pro sump refugium. Then I was thinking of sending the return from the refugium to another separate bulkhead that I would drill in each of the BioCube. My problem is I do not know if this is possible. <As you've described it, no, impractical... How would the water returning to the cubes "know" when to stop? Alternatively, one way this can be made to work is to have the water gravity drain from the tanks to the fuge, and be pumped back up to them...> I have one BioCube that has been up and running right now since January of 2007 with no losses. I want to keep this up. What is really troubling is a working drawing of how to connect them where it will work. <Mmm, you're welcome to make one up and send it to us for a look/see> Main problem is the return. I was looking at a Mag drive MD7 as the return pump from the refugium, but what I don't know is if I can just split the output of the pump into 3 separate return lines to get this to work. <Can... with valves> Or might there be some other way. If possible could I get a small sketch of something that might work, or should I just abandon this idea as crazy. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. Randy <Try this all out on paper... And do take a look at the super DIY aquarium site: Ozreef.org. BobF> Sump tank, Filter Placement 7/3/07 This might be a dumb question but I'm thinking of doing a sump tank for my 29 gallon saltwater aquarium and I was wondering if I have to keep the power filter in the main tank or put it in the sump. Thanks <It can be placed in the sump, and most people do so it is out of sight, but does not have to be there.> <Chris> Quiet filtration for a sm. reef
6/23/07 I am trying to make a decision about the filtration system
for my 25 gallon reef tank. My biggest concern is NOISE. I have
returned a 12 gallon AquaPod to my LFS because the noise it generated
was driving me crazy!!!! I can hear sound at a higher frequency than
normal so sound pollution is a genuine concern for me. After days of
research, I am trying to decide between a Tunze Nano DOC Protein
Skimmer and a Eheim Ecco Canister filter. <Both very good units,
though "do" both "filter" and there is some overlap
in function...> Which would you recommend? <Actually... both...
unless you have some other source of mechanical filtration...> Or is
there something else that you would recommend, keeping in mind the
noise issue? <Mmmm... what do you keep?> My LFS was very good
about taking the tank back, but I didn't have enough time to get
another complete system up and running and so my critters are back in a
6 gallon Eclipse. <Yikes!> This wouldn't be a major problem
since they were happy in the Eclipse for months EXCEPT that I broke my
own rule about extreme restraint and made some additional purchases for
the AquaPod, and now the Eclipse is too crowded. I am feeding my
clownfish lightly, but my sun polyps are probably starving. Some of the
rock and critters need to be moved as soon as possible. <Yes!> I
put 1" of live sand from the pod into this new 25 gallon tank and
have about 10-12 lbs live rock which I will move when everything else
is up and running. I will also add additional live rock once its cured.
I cannot move the rocks yet because I have mushrooms, polyps and other
creatures living on them. I very anxious about this situation. Other
than frequent water changes is there anything you would recommend until
I get the other tank running? <Water changes with pre-made stored
synthetic of matching spg> What about the live sand? I have a heater
running in the new tank, and I'm running airstones for a couple of
hours a day; is this sufficient for the present? <Not IMO... need to
be moved. Stat!> Thanks in advance for any help you can
give.--Katherine <If you can afford them, I'd get, use both
filters... you'll have to service, switch out the media in the Ecco
weekly... Bob Fenner> High Nitrites, Cycling 4/6/07 Hey crew, I have an 8 gallon bio cube that has been up for about 2 weeks. I have 8 pounds of live rock with some polyps and a toadstool mushroom leather coral and also a pajama cardinal and a royal Gramma. <Way too much way too fast, need to cycle the tank first.> My live rock has also been growing some brown algae on it. My LFS gave me some of there water so I could start it quickly. <Worthless, the bacteria you are trying to culture lives on solid surfaces, not in the water column.> My recent water tests have shown a spike in nitrite and nitrate levels. <Expected, your tank is cycling.> I have done my water changes and everything but the water is the same. I went to another fish store and they gave me some liquid to lower the nitrites. <What was it called?> I'm not sure what it was called because they gave me a sample only, it had something to do with the bacteria. <Unless it is Bio-Spira kept refrigerated it is of no use.> So then they told me I need a skimmer but I really don't want one because since its only an 8 gallon it would look horrible in the tank. <Your tank would greatly benefit from it.> So if you could give me some suggestions on what to do it would be helpful. <An 8 gallon nano is almost impossible to keep, its going to be lots of work. At most you could keep one very small fish in there. Also your tank needs to cycle, see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm for more.> <Chris> Nano Skimmer 5/6/07 Thanks for the good info, I have read some threads about ordinary people having skimmers on there nanos but nobody from the crew yet. Do you guys have a preferred skimmer for the nano. <I believe Aqua C now has a nano skimmer, I am a big fan of their products. Otherwise check out some of the forums to see what people's opinions are.> I'm thinking about trying out the fission since its only thirty bucks. Sapphire makes a skimmer but its 80 dollars more. <Generally with skimmers you get what you pay for.> <Chris> Canister Filter / Lighting Question 4/16/07 Hello WWM Crew people! <Hello Kevin> So I got a really good kick in the butt e-mail from someone on there about a horrible set-up that I had with a 10 gallon tank, a whole mess of salt water fish and a horrible protein skimmer. After a few months, I was left with only one surviving damselfish and an anemone that was sold to me by some crooked dude whose business looked like he was doing some "fish hustle". Needless to say, I have changed my ways and upgraded a bit after doing some MORE research (by the way, you guys have answers for just about everything on this website that it's ridiculous). I have limited space in my room so I wanted something nano, and I know how much some people on this site have expressed their hatred for nano set-ups. <Nothing wrong with a nano if done properly. I've seen really nice looking nanos.> This is what I currently have: Hardware: 28 gallon Odyssea Fish Tank Prism Pro Protein Skimmer Magnum Pro Canister Filter Livestock: 35 Lbs Live Rock 1 Unknown Damselfish 1 Domino Damsel <Yikes! Find a home for this guy. Will become very aggressive with age and they do grow quite fast.> 1 Maroon Clown <Tank is/will be too small for this fish.> 1 Coral Beauty <<Way too small for this Angel... RMF>> 1 Cleaner Shrimp 2 Mini Hermit Crabs (used to be 5, those things are cannibals) <Do provide various sizes of empty shells. They are more than likely killing for larger quarters.> 1 Condylactis Anemone (surprisingly hosted by the Maroon and looking VERY much in love with each other). <Anemones do not fit in well in community systems. The possibility of other fish being stung is always present.> 2 feather dusters So, I've run this set up for 2 months. I'm religious at cleaning the skimmer out and have been doing water changes once every two weeks. I have not tested the water yet (will be going to the LFS to get a free test, test kits / boosters for ph, alkalinity, etc. to try and get better colors out of my live rock /coral polyps growing on the live rock). My question is about the canister filter. I bought the filter before doing enough research on this site about how in most marine set-ups, canister filters don't do the job that people expect them to do. I'm currently running it with the basket insert, some exterior floss media (at least that's what it looks like to me) and some white carbon in the basket insert. <Nothing wrong with canister filters providing they are cleaned on a weekly basis. I've never heard of white carbon, must be some other type of chemical media.> The canister filter is pretty much the only water flow in the tank, and I had read that canister filters are notorious for not doing their job at cleaning marine tanks as well as wet/dries. <Weekly maintenance is the key here.> I cleaned it out this weekend and boy did it smell funky, but I'm sure the fish were happier with me doing so. I read on this site that you have to clean them quite often in marine set-ups. <Any system, not just marine.> Is there anything that I can do to the canister filter, add some type of media or whatever that might be able to give me more time between cleanings? <Ah, we are trying to find shortcuts already. Can't be done my friend. Weekly cleanings must be done. Cannot allow collected nutrients/waste to remain in the tank. They are still in the system, just relocated.> Also, I did some research on the power compact lighting that came with the tank, and it's pretty much crap (something like 35 watt maximum). Do you have any suggestions on how I can get a better light set up in there, places that might sell different types of fixtures that I can install myself, etc.? I did research on the Condy and it seems they don't mind less lighting, <Mmm, wrong here. They require a high light level. As for light fixtures, a Google search will provide links to plenty of etailers selling such.> but I wanted to check it out just in case. Thanks for your help! <You're welcome, and do search/read about animals before you buy. Ensure you can provide the requirements/needs of the animal and it's compatibility with others you may have. James (Salty Dog)> Kevin Small Refuge Setup for a Nano-Reef, subst. biota
3/27/07 Hello Bob ... greetings from Manila, Philippines. <And
to you my friend, from Hawai'i's Big Island> I've spent
many hours reading your FAQ's .. so much great information on your
site. Thank you. I hope you'll have time to
answer my questions. <Will try> I'm setting up a 20-gallon
tank, first FOWLR then moving into SPS. I plan to go
skimmerless. I'm planning on a 5.5-gallon refuge.
<Okay> Given that I'm going skimmerless, do you think I at
least need a 10-gallon refuge, or can I get away with 5.5-gallons?
<"The bigger the better"...> Also given that it is a
small tank, 14" tall, I'm planning the following: 2-inches
Miracle Mud on the bottom, 4-inches sugar-fine sand, 2-inches crushed
shell on top. <Mmm, I encourage you to somehow partition the
"Mud" from the calcareous substrates... maybe with Siliconed
glass partitions.> This leaves less than 5 inches for my water
space/Chaeto. Is this water space too small? <Mmm, no.
Not too small> I know your a fan of DSB's, but with a small
tank, is this deep enough to encourage denitrification? Is
this the correct order and depth? <Yes and yes> I've read
about methane pockets that can occur in DSB's which crash
systems. Some people stir up sand to release any small
forming gases. Others feel that the sand should not be
disturbed as it will interrupt the denitrification process (I think
this is your stance). If I choose not to disturb the sand,
how will I deal with methane gas pockets? <I would not disturb this
sand bed> Is it a good idea to have any other critters in my refuge:
i.e. hermit crabs <Mmm, no... are too predaceous> for any
detritus, or larger brittle stars for sand movement? Regards, Jason B
<I would leave these in if they were natural recruits... but
otherwise just count on incidental recruiting of various invertebrate
infauna from your live rock in the main tank here. Bob Fenner> 10" Miracle Mud & 10-Gallon DSB/Refugium - 04/04/07 Hello Buddies...quiet night here in Makati, Philippines, I'm Jason. <<Greetings Jason...EricR here again...and tis a beautiful 79-degree evening here in Columbia, SC as well>> I'm constantly changing my DSB/refuge design after reading so much on your site - this will be for a 20 gallon nano-SPS (skimmerless) tank (not yet running). <<I'm a huge fan of the DSB with macroalgae refugium methodology myself>> I thought a 10 gallon tank (12 inches high) would be fine. <<Thought about this myself in our earlier exchanges...not much volume to work with really>> However, 12-inches isn't deep enough, so I think I will have a custom made tank, still roughly 10-12 gallons. <<Mmm, do consider this...many public aquaria utilize refugiums of equal or greater volume than the displays they support>> After reading many of your FAQs and suggestions, an 8-inch sand bed, 2-inch crushed coral on top. <<Though it provides a differing habitat, the crushed coral is not "necessary">> That's 10 inches so far. I know a DSB can't be too deep, but will I still get the same effect if I have a total of 8 inches (6" for sand, and 2" for the crushed coral)? <<Would be fine>> I'll have an external pump on my main tank, pushing water up to my refuge thru a bulk head. <<I do recall>> I'll have the bulkhead 2-inches from the top (is this too low?) and 1.5 inches in diameter. <<Is fine>> So that's around 4-inches there. <<Ok>> Would 4-inches of water space be sufficient for Chaeto, or should this be deeper? <<Is all relative...the lower water depth simply means "pruning" the Chaetomorpha more often to "fit" the space>> So far, my running height of the tank would be 18-inches... That's gonna be taller than my main tank, and not exactly want I want displayed (since my refuge will also be shown, and not hidden). <<The biota in the refugium can be every bit as interesting as that in the "display" tank>> Can you guys help me shrink the size down ... while still having an effective DSB? <<Reducing the DSB to 6-inches will still be effective...and give you a bit more room for the macroalgae>> You guys also suggested that I could split the tank with a glass partition if I wanted to have some Miracle Mud... If I did that, I would have a 10" glass partition, one side to hold the sand/coral. the other to have 10" deep Miracle-Mud. is this wise? :) <<Might be worth the experimentation...but personally I wouldn't bother>> Thank you guys :) Jason <<Always welcome, EricR>> Cascade 300 Internal for 3g w/sump -- 03/18/07 Okay so this is kind of a random question... I got a 3g pico, drilled, with a 2.5g sump that is set up all happy and nice with barely 1/2" of sand, seeded from my established tank, around 2lbs of liverock with some zoos <Toxic... trouble for such a small volume> and a little xenia. There's 3 small PC lights on there that are so bright, you can see the bedroom glowing outside at night :) There's also a really sad looking brown clown goby, <Not suitable behaviorally for such a small space... live on expansive Acropora tables...> who refused to eat in the big tank, and now looks like some sort of refugee from hell who refuses to eat currently. (Cyclop-eeze, fresh shrimp, brine shrimp, etc doesn't care for) I guess he just gave up hope for life. At any rate. I got a Cascade 300 Internal Filter that's set up just barely fitting in the refugium area of the sump but its kind of noisy... Its supposedly 70gph for tanks up to 10g so am I kind of over filtering? <Possibly over circulating> More is better than less I figured since half the time the advertised GPH is much different than what really happens. <This is so> I have it set up with the little air hose above the tank level and the water its spitting out is just... loud! Would getting the flexible air tubing and just maneuvering that around help it not be so "shshsghshgshgsgh" or should I get a different filter? <The latter> I like the idea of an internal filter so the sump water level doesn't have to be so high for a hang-on filter but there's so few choices for the pico/nano genre of tanks. <Look into other brands... Eheim, Rena... May have to order through catalogs, the Net> I like the fact that it gives you choices in filter media, as the Stingray internal filters are so bleh and fat. Should I just wait a while and see if it quiets down with the flexible air hose if I can find it? Or do you have any better recommendations on the filter? <See above> Also... if the clown goby finally decides to just die or do something other than stare at his food forlornly, would a skunk clown be too big for that tank? <See WWM, Fishbase.org, the Net re... the real answer, no... Your space is too small> I mean, I've had experience with a bigger set up but the tank is pretty nifty and so are skunk clowns, and from what I've seen they don't get as big as even false Percs.. right? <... See... Bob Fenner> Filtration, Keep the filter with the Seaclone skimmer. 2/23/07 <Greetings, Mich here.> This might be a stupid question but I just started a 29 gallon marine tank and I was wondering if I have a filter running along with the SeaClone 100 protein skimmer or just run the skimmer by itself? <Probably best to use both here. Seaclone skimmers are typically quite problematic. More info here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seacloneskimfaqs.htm Hope that helps, -Mich> Nano-Reef Plumbing 2/1/07 Your site is excellent. Great Info! I have searched and have found tons of info on larger systems. I want to keep my bulkhead as small as possible, because it is a small tank and esthetics are extremely important. My question is should I go with ½" or 3/4" bulkhead in my AGA Mini-Bow 7? <Likely the 1/2"> These bulkheads will be going into the back side of aquarium. Also, how far from the edges of the glass do the edges of the holes need to be? <Mmm, two inches or so> Thanks for your help! Awesome site! Keep up the excellent work! Matt <Will do. Bob Fenner> Bio-Media in Nano Tanks 2/1/07 Hi there <Hey Paul.> I am just cycling a 12 gallon (UK) nano cube (orca tl-450). <Cool.> I have a 1 1/2cm layer of crushed coral substrate, 6 kilo of cured live rock and the water in the tank is being moved around by an 800 lph and a 400lph powerheads. The tank has a built in protein skimmer and uv sterilizer and also a large sponge and some bio balls in the filter compartments. My question is, should I remove the sponge and bio balls and just rely on the live rock and 15% water changes every two weeks, or should I leave everything as it is? <The live rock should provide adequate biological filtration.....you could remove the bio-media completely or replace it w/ live-rock rubble...either way.> I don't want the sponge to become clogged with all the wrong nitrates, nitrates, ammonia etc!!! <Can be a detritus/particle trap.> Great site by the way, very useful <Thank-you.> Paul (England) <Adam J (SoCal).> Stocking and filtration in a 29g BioCube
12/9/06 Hi all, <Hello Linda! Mich here. Do you have
family in Pennsylvania? Your last name is
familiar.> I've been reading your site and have
already gotten a lot of good info, but I have a few specific questions
about my system. I've had my tank up and running for
about 2.5 months now and, after some initial success, I've had a
bit of a setback. I have a 29g BioCube that I stocked with
20lbs of live rock and 30lbs of live sand. <OK> The
unit also has a carbon filter and bioballs (I also bought a Fission
nano skimmer but haven't set it up yet). <Skimmer is a good
addition. Bioball would be a good subtraction.> It has
high intensity fluorescent lighting that is appropriate for the clam
and coral, and I've added an extra water pump (in addition to the
one that comes with the system) to increase circulation. <Please be
aware of the clams high lighting requirements.> I have been using
distilled or bottled drinking water, but I found out where to buy
bottled R/O water and have now been using that for
everything. <Yes, RO is better.> Specs for my tank
are as follows: Ammonia/
Nitrites = zero Nitrates = 5-10 ppm <prefer 0
ppm> Temp 78 Sg
1.024-1.025 pH = 8.2-8.3
Calcium = 400-500 Coral: green star
polyps, yellow polyps, pulsing xenia, green mushrooms and frogspawn
(I'm also hoping to add a bubble coral and a torch coral to round
out the collection) - all doing great. <I don't think I would
add a bubble or a torch. Too much allelopathic potential
here.> Cleaner Crew: 8 astrea snails, 4 Nassarius snails,
2 blue leg hermits, 1 electric blue hermit. <OK> Inverts: 1 fire
shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp and 1 crocea clam (all doing great, and
both shrimp have already molted a few times). <You've only had
the tank 2.5 months correct?> I initially stocked
the tank with a hi-fin red banded goby and a wild caught percula clown
(who jumped into the filter system and died after a couple of
days). <I'm sorry for your loss.> I immediately
replaced the clown with a golden damsel. After a couple of weeks, I
added a six-line wrasse (who got along great with the damsel and
goby). Three weeks later, I added a tank raised percula
clown. The wrasse was fine with him, but damsel kept the
little guy isolated in one corner of the tank (and also kept biting the
goby's high fin off) so about two weeks later, I netted the damsel
(after taking practically all the rock out of the tank) and took it
back to the LFS and exchanged it for a royal Gramma - this is where my
luck turned. <Luck!?!?> Unfortunately, the wrasse immediately
started picking on the Gramma, which stayed in one corner of the
tank. Despite the behavioral issues, the four fish all
seemed healthy until about two weeks later when I noticed the clown
swimming near the bottom of the tank. When I checked him the next
morning...on Thanksgiving...he was very disoriented and died before I
could get him out of the tank. <Again, I'm sorry for your
loss.> (I now suspect Ich, but I wasn't sure at the
time). The LFS was having a big sale on 11/24, so I got
another tank raised percula clown and added him to the
tank. The wrasse wasn't fond of him either and so the
clown joined the Gramma in his corner of the tank. Since I
wanted to eventually have a total of five fish and my choices for the
last fish were a longnose hawkfish or a flame angel, on 11/26 (in hopes
of getting the wrasse to stop picking on the clown and Gramma) I bought
a flame angel. <Adding more fish usually makes the
problem worse, not better.> The Gramma was so frightened by the mere
presence of the angel (who was completely non-aggressive toward the
other fish), he hid in a small crevasse and only came out to grab a few
bites to eat during feeding time. After about four days, the
flame angel started hanging out at the bottom of the tank and was
loosing his color a bit. By the next morning, he was at the
top of the tank, very pale and having trouble breathing. I
quickly got a quarantine tank set up (I know...I should have had one
sooner) and gave him a fresh water dip, but it was too
late. <Yes, QT should have been the first
step. And again I'm sorry for your loss.> The next
morning the clown met with the same fate, and I found the Gramma dead
in the filter system that night (even though I have a plastic barrier
to make it harder for them to jump the tank). <So many losses!>
All that was left was the wrasse and the goby, but a week
later I saw the fire shrimp with the half eaten remains of the goby
(who seemed fine earlier that morning). <Wow! That's quite a lot
of losses! I'm sorry.> OK, my
questions are: 1. Is my ultimate goal of a wrasse, Gramma, clown, goby,
and longnose hawkfish or flame angel OK for this system?
<No! Plus the hawkfish may well snack on your shrimp.>
The BioCube manual suggested a 5-8 fish limit. <Way overcrowded!>
If not, can I substitute a smaller fish for the angel/hawkfish? Any
suggestions? <Yes. Stop. Do not
pass go. Start reading. Read
more. Then read even more. Employ proper QT
procedure. Be patient. There is much to
learn. This tank can not be a happy home for the number of
fish you are trying to put in it. It causes too much
stress. When you have one fish hiding in a corner, that is
one fish too many in the tank.> 2. The
wrasse is still doing fine (very active, good color, eats like a
piggy), so I'm not sure why the other fish died (marine ich/velvet
may have gotten the two clowns and the angel...but I'm not exactly
sure what ich looks like). <The root cause was most
likely environmental stress. Ich may have been a factor
also. But you need to read. Learn what Ich looks
like, how to avoid it, what to do if you get it
... Here's a good starting place as far as Ich
goes: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm and
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm> I do
weekly 10% water changes but I've had some problems lately with
high phosphate levels (which I took care of with extra water changes
and some Phos-Buster Pro) and an outbreak of cyanoBACTERIA, which
I've read on this site can be toxic. I've also been
battling an occasional microbubble problem. Could any of
these have contributed to the fish death?
<Unlikely. I suspect overcrowding was the primary cause
of your problems.> Are toxins from the coral also something I need
to worry about? <Yes allelopathy can be an issue among your corals,
but unlikely related to your loss of livestock.> 3. I suspected
overfeeding contributed to the phosphate/Cyano levels, so I've cut
back. <Good.> Is it possible/likely that the coral
banded shrimp got hungry and killed the goby? <Unlikely.> 4. I
know the skimmer will help control excess nutrient levels but I'm
not sure where to set it up. Are the bioballs
necessary/helpful (given all the live rock and sand) or would it be
better to get rid of them and put the skimmer in the chamber reserved
for the bioballs? <The latter would be most
appropriate.> I know this is a long message, but I'm a bit
frustrated right now. <Understandably so.> Anyway thanks in
advance, your website is great! <You are welcome and thank you for
your kind words.> <Please consider adding "The Conscientious
Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner to your holiday
list. It will serve you well.> Linda 24G Nano Refugium 9/9/06 Hi Guys, <Mixed sexes here...> I will like to create a refugium on the center compartment at the back of my 24 Gallon Nano. <Good> Option 1: Remove filter and move carbon bag to the first compartment, add a couple of pieces of life rock. No light, no sand, no Chaetomorpha. hopefully this will feed some pods into the main tank... <Hopefully> Option 2: same as option 1 + add a small arm light back there, add rock and Chaetomorpha. <I would go this route> Option 2A: same as option 2 but add sand.... this option is where I don't know what to do.... if I add sand back there it might get into the sponge filters of the first compartment, not sure if this is a problem. should I put it in and open container.... <I'd skip the sand here> are any of the above good ideas...please advice. attached is a picture of my creatures... thanks a lot! Roberto <Mmm, have you read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm and the linked files above? Bob Fenner> 29 Gallon Reef Filtration - 09/07/06 Hello crew. Quick question. I currently have a 29 gallon reef system with a Fluval 404. I have a lot of Live rock probably 30 pounds. Sand in the tank is super fine sugar sand (which was sand from my other tank which was fish only) mixed with new live sand (bought when I set this tank up about a month ago). The sand bed is about 2-3 inches deep. In the chambers I am using carbon in the bottom 2, middle tray is the bio rings, and the top tray is nitrate sponge. I do weekly water changes of 15 to 25% H2O. My nitrates are still high, around 20 to 30 PPM. I feed every other day (Mysis shrimp) about 1/3 of a frozen cube soaked in vitamin supplement and a garlic supplement to a very small True Percula and a Firefish. The two anemones <Tank too small for these guys, especially two.> get fed twice a week with 2-3 pieces of krill each. Am I over feeding? <Nope.> I have tried everything in my power to get the nitrates lower. I clean the filter once a week, cleaning the filter sponges and gently cleaning the carbon bags and bio blocks with distilled water. If there isn't much I can do, should I switch to a sump or a refugium? <I'd get a protein skimmer. This will help reduce nitrates in your system. The Red Sea Prizm Pro is a decent skimmer that will work well on your 29.> How do I connect a sump or refugium to my tank without having to drill holes? <Buy a hang on unit such as Ecosystem's.> The Fluval worked great when I had my other tank with FOWLR. With the reef for some reason, I cant seem to get these stupid nitrates down. <Would also use Chemi-Pure rather than carbon, much more effective.> The rest of the readings are zero with great alk, calcium, and iodine readings. I hope maybe you can shine some light here cause I love this tank and I love the friends that call this tank home. I will do what ever I need to make sure they live a happy and healthy life. <Good to hear, try doing the above. You seem to be doing everything else right, except putting anemones in a small tank with non-anemone safe fish such as the Firefish. James (Salty Dog)> Josh DIY filter for Small Reef, Not reading or finding 8/6/06 Hello! First of all, I read over your forum all the time, and it's EXTREMELY helpful. However, it seems no one has been as lost as me on doing a DIY sump/filter system. <We'll see...> I am getting a new 29 gallon aquarium as an upgrade from my current reef tank. I plan to use a spare 10 gallon tank to make the sump/filter out of. Thus far, I have got all the water transfer path figured out, but am having a little trouble figuring out how to get the water flowing. <?> I *think* you use a powerhead? <Might be able to...> I honestly have no clue. Then for the return flow, I am looking at a pond pump that pumps 160 GPH. Will this be powerful enough to pump the water back into the tank? <Mmm, would need to know the rated flow of this pump at the given head (difference in water levels...)> ALSO. I am a little confused because some people have told me just to make a refugium, but I don't understand how that aids in filtration? <These are all gone over... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm the fourth "block" of blue/highlighted files... on Refugiums... Rationale, Pumps...> My filtering plans are to make a 3 stage "flow-over". The first compartment will be filter floss, then carbon, then bioballs. It will look like a triple waterfall, with water flowing over dividers in the tank to the next compartment. And lastly, how do I successfully get the intake and return flows to match up without having to do a trial and error type deal and spill water all over my living room floor? Thanks SO much for you help! <And Design... Circulation. BobF> Cycling issue with 10 gallon SW tank 7/15/06 Bonjour! First of all, let me thank you in advance for spending your time on this!! It has been of great help reading the forums. I am a beginner aquarist, started out with a 10 gallon aquarium, no knowledge (ouch!), incandescent lighting (ouch!!), two damsel fish, one of which died, and a piece of live rock. I started reading books, gathering information, and I decided to start anew, putting the leftover damsel (blue devil), the (dead) live rock, and the coral banded shrimp that I had recently bought, in an empty tank. They are now thriving. Anyway, so I added something like (if I remember correctly) 22 pounds of live sand, forming about a 2-3 inch layer, and so far, 7 pounds of live rock. I've had it like this for 14 days now, with no lighting (I am ordering the orbit 20" from Current Usa with Dual Daylight (10,000K & 6700K), Dual Actinic (460nm & 420nm) and Lunar Lights), and a canister filter with carbon/floss, plugged in since day two of adding LR/LS. I have noticed that on the live rock Peyssonnelia spp. (chestnut algae) has been appearing and thriving on the underside, which I read is pretty common. <Yes> I have done water testing every day; the first couple of days with a slight nitrite reading 0.2 mg/l and no nitrate reading and no ammonia. For the past couple of days I've had no ammonia, no nitrite, and a slight nitrate reading of about 10 mg/l (those colours can be hard to read!) PH has been at 8.2 the whole time. There has been no algae growth, <No light/ing...> so I was wondering... has my tank matured yet or no? <I would give it another week...> Normally one could tell through the algae cycle, but mine seems to have none. <You will with the installation of the lights> Is it too soon to tell? Do I have to wait longer, if so any guesstimations ( I know that it can be between 3 days to 100!)? Also will I need a protein skimmer, or any other equipment for this setup? <I definitely would have a skimmer... and be looking into changing out the canister... You'll soon tire of the attention it will require to stay clean...> ( I will just be adding the damsel, the coral banded shrimp, and after a while, a clown anemonefish.) I read about the protein skimmer debate but it is still unclear to me whether of not to get one, some say it is essential, and others, that a water change weekly is only necessary. <Both are correct. Especially smaller systems can be run (with careful feeding, good maintenance otherwise) w/o a skimmer... but I would...> Thank you so much in advance for considering my long e-mail and my (stupid) questions! I am just a beginner very worried not to let living creatures die again because of my inexperience. Best regards, Paula Groffen <Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner> Filtration help 5/3/06 Hello, <Greetings> I will start by saying your web site is great! Now here is my problem. I have a 29Gallon tall reef tank. I currently have 48 pounds of live rock, an open brain, a bubble, a few different colors of striped mushrooms, a red mushroom, zoos, and some nice Ricordea mushrooms. I am using a Skilter 250 mainly for protein skimming and I built a wet/dry out of a ten gallon tank I had laying around. At first this tank only had fish but I couldn't resist starting a reef tank. <Coral do seem to be addictive> Now I only have four fish in it. <The limit of a 29 in my opinion, perhaps even a bit overstocked> Two were only for the cycle but I will be returning them to the pet store for something else. Probably one new fish. <Make sure it stays small, probably should be the last fish in a tank this size with corals> My question is should I remove the bio balls slowly and just run my Skilter? I know it's recommended to get rid of the bio-balls but I am worried that my system will crash. Is the live rock amount good enough to act as the filtration? I know this is called the Berlin method but is it good for a reef tank? I only heard of that system being used in a FOWLR tank. Its seems at times my tanks quality changes fast and often. <Well you have a good amount of LR in the tank so I think that you should get plenty of bio-filtration from it. However the Skilter has a dubious reputation at best, and I would be inclined to leave the bio-balls and just make sure to clean the wet/dry often (weekly) to help compensate for the Skilters usual lack of production. If possible I would encourage you to upgrade to a more advanced skimmer, then you could get rid of the bio-balls and end up with more stable water conditions> Thanks for the help. <Anytime> Shane Smith <Chris> New Tank, Old Questions - Filtration For Smallish Marine Systems
- 04/22/2006 Hello majorly informative
people! <Hello! And thanks for
the kind words!> I just need a few very straight answers <I'm
gonna break it to yah now. There are NO straight answers in
this hobby.... NONE.> for the very best filtration system
I can have for two small, saltwater tanks (everything won on
eBay!): #1. I have a 30 gal acrylic saltwater
tank (FOWLR) running 4 months now with the
following: Emperor 280, SeaClone 100 protein skimmer (works
great for me), along with the usual heater, etc. I have just
added 17 lbs. of live rock to the 10 lbs. I had in the
tank. (I know, I know...but, I am
learning.) I have 3" of live sand as
substrate. <Mm, in my opinion/experience, I'd go
less than an inch or more than four.> There are 2 sm. damsels, 2
clown fish, 1 scooter blenny. <The scooter, a dragonet,
will not survive in a 30g tank, I fear.... This is an animal
that feeds upon primarily or only living things that develop in your
tank as it matures.... Typically, a 100g tank with roughly
100lbs of live rock is recommended (rather, required) for sustaining
their feeding habits, and thus, their lives.> (cannot seem to keep
invertebrates) <Better explore why, and soon....>
(Nitrates just shot way up...have only been topping off the
water. Started changing some water.)
<Good.> Getting to the point - I don't mind
starting over with a better filtration system to get the
best. Suggestion? <Many. Best
suggestion is to start reading and develop your own
preferences. Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
.> #2. I also have a 46 gal. bowfront freshwater aquarium
that I want to convert over to saltwater. I have a
Marineland Penguin 350 on it. <I, personally, would pull
out the BioWheel and media and just use this as a circulation device
and a place to add chemical filtrants when/if necessary.> This tank
has lots of room for anything and everything I want to add to it for
terrific filtration. (but again, has no holes drilled in
it.) What is the best filtration system for this tank to
become a saltwater? <Again, many countless options
here. My own, personal, preference is to use a pound or two
per gallon of live rock, 5" or nearabouts of oolitic aragonite
sand, a very good skimmer, and frequent water changes. Other
folks have other preferences, and you'll develop your own.> #3.
I want a sump, but my tank has no holes drilled for that
purpose. Is there a wet/dry sump I could still use for my
tank? <Look into hang-on overflows, or have the tank
drilled.> If not, please tell me what filtration to
use. <Start
reading.... too many options to tell you unequivocally
"the best" option for you, your system, your maintenance
habits.... You will over time develop a knowledge for what
you and your system like and need.> #4. A friend has
given me a used Eheim 2213 canister filter with all the carbon, stones,
etc. inside. (It has not been in use in over a
year.) Is it worth using on such small tanks such as
mine? <Can be, if cleaned FREQUENTLY, and used mostly
just for mechanical filtration and chemical filtration when/if
necessary. With adequate live rock and sand, you will have
no need of biological filter media in the Eheim.> It would not be
able to be used on the 30 gal. due to limited space if it was used in
conjunction with the Emperor and skimmer. Already out of
room. Thank you for your advice...confused, but I'll be
okay once I hear from you. <Mm, actually, it's
not me you need to hear from, but your own self and your own research,
to find what is right for you and your prospective
system. You will get there, with patience and
research. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
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