|
|
FAQs about Toxic Water Conditions: Insecticides
Related Articles: Marine Toxic Tank Conditions
, General Marine
Maintenance, Related FAQs:
Toxic Situations 1, Toxic Situations
2, Toxic Situations 3, Toxic
Situations 4, Toxic Situations 5,
Toxic Situations 6, Toxic Situations 7,
Toxic Situations 8, Toxic Situations 9,
& FAQs on Toxic Water Conditions by: Unknown
Causes, & Endogenous (from
inside, e.g. Internal, Organic Causes),
Foods, Nutrients,
Venomous/Poisonous Tankmates,
Wipe-out Syndromes/New Tanks e.g., Exogenous (from
outside, External, Inorganic, e.g. Metals):
Marine Algaecide Use/Chemical Control,
Toxic Copper Use Situations/Troubleshooting,
Cleaners, & Troubleshooting/Fixing, |
Most household pest remedies are toxic to marine life... and you. |
Problem-Pest
Extermination…The Terrestrial Kind (Poison Danger?) – 09/19/09
Hi guys,
<<Daniel>>
I am gonna have a problem on Monday (21st). My building where I rent an
apartment schedule pest extermination (or whatever you call it) in
couple of days.
<<I see…depending on the “method” of extermination (fogger, margin
spray, etc.) this can be problematic>>
I am worried about my 100g reef. I am gonna turn off my skimmer, I use
GAC/GFO dual reactor, close my stand, open all windows.
<<Ah well… If you are able to have your windows open then apparently
they won’t be fogging (this is good for your tank).
What else could I do to prevent huge problems?
<<You may not really have anything to worry about. If the exterminator
is only coming in with a sprayer and treating the floor/wall junctures
(very common…is where the bugs travel) and keeps the spray itself
(usually a fine stream) out of your tank you probably won’t have any
issues (I have had my house treated in this manner with no problems at
all re my reef system)>>
I was thinking about covering my tank with some plastic bags,
<<You could do this>>
but what about oxygen for my fishes and corals???
<<How about running an airstone to the tank through one of those open
windows? Doing so, and with plastic over the tank, will create a small
positive pressure flow to further prevent any fumes from entering the
tank>>
I don't have refugium where I could leave lights on.
<<Not necessary…and likely makes protecting the tank a bit easier>>
And I don't think I can tell them to not come to my place in rental
apartment? Any ideas?
<<As stated>>
Regards,
DanielP
<<Cheers, EricR>>
Flea Infestation on cats, SW tanks... 7/23/08
Hello,
<Natalie>
We have three
aquariums; a 120 gallon stocked
with mostly LPS and some fish, a 40 gallon stocked with mushrooms, zoas,
and an anemone and some fish, and last a 45 gallon zero edge stocked
with clams, feather dusters and a couple fish. The 120 and 40 gallon
have skimmers and all the tanks have a refugium. We also have two carbon
reactors that rotate between the tanks and all the tanks are plumbed
into the house.
<Nice>
The issue is that we also have two cats
and we have gotten fleas and have tried to get rid of them without
spraying any chemicals, but the fleas have just flourished and so we
have called the pest control company. They will be spraying at ground
level only and the sofa. We tried to explain to them that we have reef
tanks but they only understood fish tank and told us that we need to
cover them with some sort of cloth. We were wondering if maybe
completely covering the tanks and stands with plastic and taping it down
to try and make it air tight. Then letting a scuba tank slowly bleed
into that atmosphere. We are not really sure what to do with the zero
edge.
<Perhaps a loose fitting piece of polyethylene...>
We were
thinking maybe turning the pump off covering the tank like the others
and putting bubblers in as well.
We were wondering if this will work
or if you had any ideas comments or concerns with the only one we had.
Thank you for the help and your time.
Natalie Schneider
<I would
talk with the pest control company, other sources/services re just
trying boric acid on the carpet... plus a treatment applied directly to
the cats fur instead. Bob Fenner>
Re: Flea Infestation 7/23/08
Bob,
We actually already
have been using Frontline on the cat's fur, as well as shampooing them
and killing 50+ fleas at a bath. Basically it is a full blown
infestation now. You get bit every time you sit down on a piece of
furniture or couch or bed or floor. We tried boric acid and it seemed to
help in the carpeted area's ( not the tank areas) but didn't really do
much for the family room where they are in the couches and chairs, all
cloth.
<I see... Not fun!>
Basically we think we have exhausted
all options regarding them other then a regular spraying. Any other
advice, does the scuba tank inside the wrapped stand sound okay?
<Yes>
Or would we be better off extending the skimmer air intakes out
the window for fresh air from outside?
<Another very good idea>
Any other ideas or comments regarding the spraying would be wonderful.
Thanks, Natalie
<Perhaps a cursory read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/toxinsectcidef.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Pest sprays 6/24/08 INCORRECT
Hi,
I was referred to you
by all-reef, and my question is I am having my home sprayed for
fleas and they told me I needed to cover my fish tank for at least 4
hours.
<And likely turn off intakes to any air-entraining gear
(e.g. Venturis on powerheads, skimmers...)>
I have a 75g reef
with no cover on it or the sump currently and was wondering what if
you had any suggestions. The pest company said a wet tower but I
don't think that would be a good idea! Please let me know what you
think.
Thanks
-Nick
<There is actually quite a range of
"toxicity" from various pest sprays... some are relatively innocuous
(pyrethroids for instance), whereas others are real trouble
(organophosphates for example). Do write us back with specifics
here. Bob Fenner>
Re: pest sprays 6/25/08
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the quick
response! I'm not sure what spay is actually being used, the pest
being killed is fleas not sure if that helps. I will try and
find out what they are going to be using, but if not is there any
advise you can give me on covering the tank? Please let me know!
Thanks
-Nick
<Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/toxinsectcidef.htm
and the linked files
above. BobF>
Toxicity of pyrethroids. Yeeikes! - 6/30/08 CORRECTION
In the daily FAQ last week, someone wrote in to concerning what was
needed to protect their tank while the house was treated by
exterminators. The answer given was that it depended on what was
being used, with pyrethroids being described as innocuous and
organophosphates being a bigger concern.
No question about the
use of organophosphates being a concern - there is a reason they
were the basis of chemical weapons for so long. My question is about
pyrethroids being called innocuous. After some spraying around my
house and asking the exterminator what he was using, I did some
research on pyrethroids. They are relatively innocuous to mammals
(the synthetics less so that the natural pyrethrin) but all of them
are extremely toxic to aquatic life, invertebrate and vertebrate.
Concentrations as in the 1 ppb range have been found to kill 50% of
the fish exposed to it (what is called the LC50). There is some
mention in the literature about toxicity being somewhat less for
higher temperatures (i.e. topical vs. temperate) but you're still
looking at a fairly toxic substance as far as the aquarium life is
concerned. Is there research regarding marine life that I didn't see
that shows that pyrethroids are not something to worry about for the
marine aquariums?
<Thank you very much for this input. Either in
my faulty memory (perhaps in confusion with mammalian toxicity) or
ignorance, I mis-spoke re pyrethroid/ins. Will amend/append the
prev. email. Bob Fenner> |
Termite Treatment 11/1/07
Hi Crew!
Well here's another
problem I'm having. I have 6 tanks set up in my house. From a 220 down
to a 10 gallon. Well my house has dry wood termites and they say it has
to be tented. Is there a way I can tent without having to take the tanks
down? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks In Advance!
<Ask the
folks doing the tenting... Actually not them, but the licensed Pest
Control Advisor that works for them... what the specific treatment will
involve, and tell them that you have aquariums... Some techniques do not
involve toxic chemical application (and you may get away with simply
covering your tanks with damp towels)... Others call for taking down,
removal... Bob Fenner>
Care of fish and aquarium when residence will be fumigated for dry wood
termites next week. 7/25/06
I am in need of urgent
assistance regarding my tropical fish.
I just received notice that
my town home in Northern Ca will be treated for termites next week. (
Town home adjacent to mine is in process of sale)
I understand the 4
town homes in my cul de sac will be tented and gas infused to permeate
all areas to exterminate termites.
< I am sorry to hear this, but it
is understandable. >
My concern is how do I care for my
fish during this procedure?
< As much as I know you do not want to
read this, I do not want to type this, but here goes... Move the tank! >
I have a 150 gallon salt water aquarium which is well established with
live rock and 6 large fish ( Most in my care for 5+ years).
< Kudos
to the diligent and mindful aquarist! >
I cannot imagine breaking
down this aquarium and keeping these large fish alive for several days.
< I understand your pain. You must move the tank. I suggest finding a
feed and seed store that caters to cattle/horse keepers. There, you will
find Rubbermaid watering troughs that will well suit your needs. I would
move everything into the vat, with the exception of the sand bed. Store
the vat at a friends house. The sand bed will almost have to be
re-cycled, for stirring it up will undoubtedly release undesirable
toxins. This should be done in a separate container, with water changes
as needed. As for the tank, You could wrap it thoroughly in shrink wrap,
and you may not need to move the tank if it is wrapped well. >
Can you advise?
< I wish there was an easier answer. Best wishes!
RichardB >
Thanks Marine tank move and pesticide
concerns 7/25/06
Hi, crew! Thanks again for this
resource and your help in the past... I have a couple questions for you
today. The first one is pretty easy- I currently have a 20 gal. marine
tank with live rock (not sure of the
weight, as I acquired the tank
from a previous owner, but it covers the back of the tank 2/3 to 3/4 of
the way up), a scrappy ocellaris clown ("Blooper"), a blue damsel
("Dex"), a 3-4" T. Crocea clam showing signs of new calcareous growth,
Astrea snails, a scarlet skunk
shrimp (carrying her second batch of
eggs this summer!), mushroom corals, and one Nassarius snail. I picked
up an empty 30 gal. tank and stand for a song, and am going to move this
crew to more spacious quarters, after first painting the back of the
tank
with flat black water-based enamel and a mini-roller, as you
suggest- the old tank is mirrored, which I hate. I want to add a deeper
sandbed to the new tank- currently it's in the danger zone of 1-3",
would like to aim for 4-5". Can I move most of the old sand to
the
new tank, and top off with more?
<Yes... but best to place the new
on the bottom... the old live on top>
Much of the old substrate is
coarser than it should be, I believe... crushed coral perhaps (again, it
came with the tank
from the old owner, so not sure exactly what he
started with... tried to find out everything about it,
but a
language barrier prevented full communication... also, when he suggested
adding a yellow tang to the
tank because it "would look nice with
the other fish" I knew we had a problem. He had had the tank set up
for almost a year with no water changes, just freshwater top-ups, and
only a small powerfilter on the back for circulation. Yikes!
<I'll
say... wonder if he ever flushes the toilet... Bad visual!>
Took a
long time to get those nitrates under control). I have one 20lb bag of
oolitic aragonite, but more will be needed clearly, even with the old
substrate to reach an adequate depth. Can I move much of the old
substrate over, and top it off with the finer sand?
<Same response>
My thoughts are to let the substrate cycle in the filled new tank,
transfer the skimmer and one powerhead to the new tank, then arrange
most of the live rock around this equipment, add the damsel first to the
cycled tank to stake out a territory (he is bullied in the old tank by
the clownfish), then move the clown and the shrimp, and the canister
filter to the 30 gal. Does this sound like a good plan?
<Yep>
My second problem is more tricky. Our cat, who occasionally goes
outside, has kindly picked up some fleas, and introduced them to our
apartment as well. My roommates want to spray, as the Bio-spot drops Mr.
Fleabag was just treated with will only deal with the
problem on
him, and not on our carpets etc. Obviously, I'm highly concerned about
the ramifications of introducing highly toxic pesticides into the
aquarium environment.
<Me too.>
I'm considering setting up the
new tank in a closet/alcove thing in our living room (currently filled
with houseplants and
a small gecko and Betta tank), which has
sliding doors that could be closed and sealed off "homeland security
style"
<Hopefully better...>
with plastic film and duct tape-
thereby segregating the reef, my gecko, and Betta from the bug
bomb. However, cycling a tank takes time, and I'm not sure how long I
can convince my roomies to wait for bacteria to grow while fleas are
nipping at their ankles (uh... my roommates, not the bacteria, who to my
knowledge, lack ankles, lol).
<Heeee!>
Given that I'm starting
with an established tank and well seeded substrate, how much time would
you recommend giving the substrate to cycle,
<A week>
and at
what pace would you proceed with livestock transfer?
<Next day...>
I'm itchin' for an answer, ;-)
*Carla M.
<Wish you were my
roomie... BobF out in HI> Bug Spray Boo Boo (7-31-06)
I did my first really stupid thing today in regards to my saltwater fish
tank. <Welcome to the club, sooner or later we all make mistakes.> I
rinsed my hands off up to my elbows as usual and stuck my hand in the
tank to remove the uneaten seaweed. That is the point that I remembered
that I had used Off Bug Spray on my entire arm. <Utto.> The light then
turned off as it is on a timer. I used a flashlight to check and the
fish are acting ok. I then did a 10% water change and have been
stressed out for the last couple of hours the fish still are acting
ok. If enough bug spray got in the tank to be toxic how quickly would
the fish react? <Hard to say.>
Any suggestions on more steps I
should take?
<Another bigger water change, perhaps 30% and add
activated carbon to your filter. If already using carbon, remove the old
and add some new. I use Chemi-Pure.>
Thanks. <Your very welcome and
hopefully everything will be ok, Leslie>
Fire Shrimp Problem... new water? Cyanobacteria? Cat flea med.?
9/5/06
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
My Fire Shrimp has been having
problems when I change water.
<Very common>
He first
appears to excitedly dash around the tank (very uncharacteristic)
and then he will fall over and twitch. I've seen this three or four
times over the last couple of months - but not every time I change
water. In the past, he has recovered after a day. The two Gobies in
the tank have never shown any sign of distress.
<Need... to
read... re the necessity of pre-mixing, storing, matching new and
existing water quality...>
Just over a week ago, I saw this
again, and noticed that it occurred before new water went into the
tank. When it occurred, I was working on scrubbing what I believe
to be Cyanobacteria off the rocks in preparation for siphoning it
out. I immediately stopped what I was doing and put new charcoal
and a PolyFilter in the power filter.
<Mmm, maybe an interaction
here...>
At this point, I remembered something about possible
toxicity of Cyanobacteria. Your site mentions possible toxicity,
but provides no details of how toxic or what creatures are affected.
<A huge topic... all affected to degrees>
Later, my son
mentioned the extreme toxicity of flea treatments for household
pets.
<Mmm, some... not all... to aquatic life. Can be
investigated via the Net>
I did some research and learned that
the product we use on our cats (Frontline) has an active ingredient
that is extremely toxic to shrimp (1 ppb kills some species) and
furthermore that this poison gets onto a person's hands by handling
a treated cat anytime within a month of treatment.
<Yes, this is
so>
I had not been all that careful about washing before working
in the tank (and I really find dedicated gloves just too hard to
use). So I became pretty convinced that flea poison on my hands was
the source of my Fire Shrimp's difficulties.
<I see>
I
resolved to be more careful about cleaning my hands and arms in the
future before working in the tank.
<Good>
A couple days ago,
I did another water change just after a shower and with no
intervening contact with cats. Everything seemed to go OK, though I
did not make much effort to clean off the Cyanobacteria. My Fire
Shrimp did not seem bothered (though he has not fully recovered from
the previous severe episode, and I don't think it likely at this
point that he will). I also re-introduced three Peppermint Shrimp
at this time, and they had no problems. (These had been removed on
suspicion that they were eating my Xenia, but I later discovered a
hitchhiker crab doing this, and so I am assuming the Shrimp are
innocent.)
<Mmmm>
Today, I washed my hands with soap and
rinsed my arms before spending half an hour using a toothbrush to
clean off Cyanobacteria. I tried to get the Cyanobacteria into a
separate small container to be disposed off, as I was not planning
to siphon the tank.
After a half hour or so, I again noticed my
Fire Shrimp looked disturbed, though not in truly extreme
distress. I immediately stopped what I was doing and began to
compose this email. Also notable is that the Peppermint Shrimp
showed no signs of distress.
So here's the puzzle. Is the flea
medicine to blame, and I really must shower or use gloves before
working on the tank?
<Doubtful... or all shrimp would be
similarly mal-affected>
Or is the toxicity of the Cyanobacteria
to blame (or also to blame)?
<Maybe>
And, should we assume
that the Fire Shrimp in its current damaged state is simply more
sensitive to toxins, or perhaps by nature more sensitive to toxins?
<I still am mostly placing the credit/blame on the new water...>
By the way, I am also working on fixing the causes of the
Cyanobacteria, which got out of control while we were away on
vacation for a couple weeks this summer. I'm running PolyFilter,
changing 10% of the water weekly, and I've reduced the light (from
192 watts of 50/50 to 96 watts of 50/50 over a 30 gallon) in the
hopes that the other algae will better compete for nutrients.
<A
good plan>
Other algae present include Coralline, Halimeda, and
an unidentified algae that is turf-like, attractive maroon under
lower light conditions and faded yellow-green under high light
conditions (hope this one isn't toxic too).
Thanks,
Tom
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shrimpsysfaqs.htm
and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
and the linked
files above. Bob Fenner> Re: Fire Shrimp Problem 9/6/06
Thanks Bob.
<Welcome Tom>
Below is some follow-up. Reading
is optional, and a reply is not required (though always of interest
and appreciated):
I have been following your advice about
pre-mixing and aging my new water.
<I see>
I mix it to
specific gravity of 1.024-1.025. I rarely check my tanks, but I
just checked the one in question and found it to have specific
gravity right in the middle of that range. I use B-Ionic for
alkalinity and calcium.
<Good product/s>
Also, I've had this
Fire Shrimp for 11 months and noticed no problems until the last few
months. One thing that changed was that we got a new kitten in
June, and for a variety of reasons, he gets handled a lot more than
does our older cat.
<Mmm...>
Finally, on at least one
occasion it was clear that the Fire Shrimp's distress began before
new water was added.
So, I find it hard to believe that the new
water is the problem.
<I concur>
Instead, your comments lead
me to think that the flea medicine and Cyanobacteria might both have
played a role here.
<Yes, either/both could>
And I guess I
have to assume that the weakened state of the Fire Shrimp accounts
for his reaction last time, when the Peppermint Shrimp were not
noticeably affected.
My take-home message: take care to have
clean hands and get rid of the Cyanobacteria (as carefully as
possible).
Thanks again.
Tom
<Well summarized. Thank
you. BobF> |
Killing Fleas Without Killing
Fish (4/27/04)
Greetings Crew! <Steve Allen today.>
I am
currently battling fleas in my home and need some advice on treatment.
<Being no fan of furry mammal pets, I don't have much familiarity with
the available products.>
This week I applied a powder to the carpet,
and took the following precautions with my tanks: covered all open areas
and sump with damp towels, turned off skimmers and return pump from the
sump, turned off air pump for QT, ran circulation pumps only in QT and
125 FOWLR main tank. The cats have also been treated with Advantage and
have been flea free for a couple days. <Don't fleas die if you keep the
cats out of the room in question for some period of time? Which room is
it?>
After getting the tanks ready I applied the powder to the
carpet, worked it in with a brush and left in for 1.5 hours before
vacuuming up per instructions. I waited another 30 minutes before
turning everything but the skimmers back on and also ran a Nikken air
filter in the room with the tanks. I waited 24 hours before turning the
skimmers back on. <I'm not sure you need to turn them off. Most flea
products are organic molecules and the skimmer should actually help
remove any stray ones that get into the system. High-quality fresh
carbon and PolyFilter help too.> It has been 48 hours since treatment
and I have observed no ill effects from fish or inverts. <Good>
So
far so good, right? <Here comes the bad news, right?> Well there are
still tons of fleas on the rampage...only need to stand on carpet for
about 30 seconds and there will be fleas chewing on your legs :( <Makes
me glad I have no cats or dogs.> I need to treat again, and more
aggressively.
So my questions are:
1) Spray or powder? I first
chose powder as I believed there would be less chance of it getting in
the tanks, but after applying it I noticed a lot of fine dust and very
strong smell. <Pesticides do smell strongly and if you can smell it,
it's getting into your body too.>
2) How long can I safely leave the
tanks covered with only circulating pumps running? <Not very long if
there is little fresh air exchange going on at the surface of the water.
I know from experience that it is easy to drop the oxygen level in a
tank to dangerously low levels.> The 125 FOWLR contains a 6" Barred
Spinefoot and a 2" Passer Angel. The 20g QT contains a 2" yellow tang
and a 3" Flagfin Angel.
You guys have been a great help in the
past, and I am grateful!
I will be greatly anticipating your response
while being the main course for a bunch of bloodsuckers. E.B.
<Unfortunately, there are no guarantees here. You could easily harm the
tank, but everything can easily turn out fine. Here are a few principles
to consider. 1. You need a excellent ventilation of the room. 2. You
should spray whatever you use very close to the surface in question to
minimize aerosolization. Is it just carpet or are we talking furniture
too? If you're treating the rest of the house, can you isolate the fish
room from the general air circulation? 3. Heavy chemical filtration with
charcoal and PolyFilter should help. Fresh carbon in the air filter
would be good too. 4. Perhaps you should call in a professional
exterminator with experience in houses that also have fish. Hope this
helps.> Insecticides
Bob,
I realize that fish and
aerosol insecticides are asking for trouble. But, I live in the piney
woods of East Texas where periodic "invasion" of the home by ants and
other little creatures is part of life. I think the ants are interesting
to watch work but my wife says they have got to go. How can I protect my
aquarium if/when there is a need to spray Bengal inside.
<Hmm, do
first try water-based Diazinon... and in either case cover the system/s
with a damp towel and turn off all air pumps or air-entraining devices
(like skimmers, powerheads) during the fifteen/thirty minutes or so
during/following application. This should be fine>
I plan on covering
the aquarium with a sheet (plastic better?) and turn off the cooling
fan. The aquarium ( FOWLR w/inverts) has both a glass cover as well as a
large, complete hood.
As always, I appreciate your input and wisdom.
Thom Walters
<You're certainly welcome my friend. Bob Fenner>
Pest control...aquarium poison
Hi, everybody from WWM.
<Cheers>
I don't know why the last month an explosion of cockroaches
occur in my home (hey caramba, but we are not, pest control office you
may say!!) but my problem is... I will call the pest control but I don't
know what to do with my 200 litres tank. They use smoke (I don't know
what kind of poison come with it) and is really effective with the
cockroaches, because the smoke penetrates everything (including my
tank)...
<insecticides are most always VERY toxic to aquarium life.
This is a difficult dilemma>
Maybe you can give me a hint how to
proceed, I thought cover the tank and the sump with a huge plastic lid
sealed with masking tape, shut off the skimmer, the overflow and dose
oxygen with a O2 tank... but I not sure if it will work or maybe you
have an easiest and practical way...
<if the process of "smoking" the
house is only for a few hours before you can get back in, then a
procedure like mentioned above may help... but it is certainly a risk.
If the fumigation is to last more than say 6 hours (indeed many are much
longer)... then the tank will unfortunately have to be moved. If for any
reason the tank stays, use a lot of activated carbon and some poly
filters (Poly Bio Marine) and be prepared to do several large water
changes (gentle but large) in the first week after the treatment.>
Thank you Carlos
<best regards, Anthony> Flea Problem
Here's the thing -- I have two cats. They have recently gotten infested
with fleas and I need to get rid of them ASAP.
<What? Not the cats I
hope!>
My problem-I have a 65 gallon reef tank that has no cover
because the lighting (MH/Actinic combo) is hanging from the ceiling
above the tank. I live in a small apartment and want to know how bad
will it be if I "bomb" my apt for fleas? If not, do you have any advise
as to what to do, short of getting rid of the cats, lol? Thanks!
<Have recently done this here... I would make sure the MH's are not able
to "come on" (pull the electric cords from the wall), and cover the tank
with damp towels, turn off the powerheads, any other air-entraining
devices (like Venturis) and sprits away... Bob Fenner> Does
termite problem = tank problem?
<that depends... is your aquarium
on a wooden stand?>
Hey Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
Help! Termites have moved in. My place needs tenting for 2 days. Got a
125 gal. FOWLR tank.
<this is bad... not going to be fun>
1. Can I
just remove fish and leave everything else?
2. If not, can the tank
stay put covered in plastic?
<alas... pesticides are categorically
hostile to most all aquatic life. It may be necessary to remove the
aquarium entirely. Do check with exterminator about the toxicity of his
product with aquatic life. I suspect it is bad.>
3. If tank has to
go, do you know a service that specializes in (or even does) this and
can house my
fish, rock, and sand? I live in Laguna Beach.
<look
in the yellow pages under "aquarium service"... there are many such
maintenance personnel that are experienced with this move. Do check
credentials/references though if possible>
Those termite bastards.
KEITH BAIM
PS Loved your book TCMA, the perfect reference guide and
info source (except for missing a section on what to do if termites
invade).
<heehee... agreed... I think <G> Anthony>
Termite Tenting – 03/13/08
Hi Crew
I have a question and was
wondering if you guys and gals have had to go threw this?
<Through?>
My house is going to be tented for termites on April the 2nd. I have 6
tanks in my house and all are doing very well for months now. I was
going to move 5 of the tanks to my outside garage during tenting. They
are from 10 to 46 gallons. Can move and reset up without to much trouble
but the 135 long is what Im worried about. I have 6 fish in it and the
one I worry about the most is my Chrysurus angel. When I got him the
stress from the move and new tank almost killed him. Battled fin rot for
months but now is doing great for months. Can I move fish to holding
tanks for 3 days and leave tank up with plastic over the top and taped
shut? I was going to get a Hydor external magnet pump to keep flow going
in the tank. The wet and dry and UV I would take out and keep water
flowing through the W/D so it doesn't die. The termite guys said that
should be fine but wont guarantee it. I hate to
take it down and then
get new tank sickness. If I do take down and reset up how long till it
restabilizes? I did that with a 29 gallon once and lilled a couple of
fish account the nitrite shot up. I have so much time and money in this
thing I hate to have to start over. I ask my fish store if I could store
the fish for a few weeks and they said no. So if I could ask what do you
think would be the best way to do this? Thanks for all past and present
help.
<... Try following directions... go here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm
put in
the terms "Termite tenting", read the cached views on WWM... Bob Fenner>
|
|
