Devils hand.     7/10/18
Good afternoon Bob,
<Hiya John>
I was wondering if you could weigh in on something. I have a HUGE devils hand in my 750 that I’ve had for about 6 years. He’s about 23” across and 14” tall. He’s always been healthy and no issues that I know of.
<Good>
Over the last couple weeks I’ve noticed that one of his lobes is turning a blackish color and there are 2-3 other spots in different areas doing the same thing but the other 2-3 spots are about 2.5-3cm in diameter. He is still fully open and great polyp extension except in those areas. Any thoughts on what’s going on?
<Mmm; may be nothing... but... if these areas turn out to be obviously necrotic (wearing through, expanding), I'd consider excising (cutting them out); IF the whole colony suddenly appears to be collapsing, I'd frag several areas of good tissue and toss the rest; raise the frags in a few systems>
I’ve never seen this before.
<Unfortunately, I have>
Thank you
John
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Devils hand.     7/10/18
Thanks Bob. If I get a chance tomorrow when the lights are on I’ll get you some pics of the areas.
<Ah, good. B>
Thank you.
John
<Oh! John, do try "rubbing the spots off" with your finger/nail. BobF>
Re: Devils hand.     7/10/18
Will do. Thanks Bob. If it removes with my fingernail does that mean algae or a fungus?
<Mmm; that it's likely something (more) superficial; less worrying. Bob Fenner>

coral... soft, holey, why?      3/23/18 <Is there a full moon? 12 megs of files? Why?> can you tell me why this coral has a hole in it? it seemed to be splitting in 3 heads lol seems healthy and colour is good as you can see in pics I've read it could be cloning it self is that right all other coral in tank are doing well also thanks Krissy <Either very good conditions or something/s stressful can bring on such schizogyny (reproduction by asexual splitting). Might be that the Anemone below is mal-affecting your Sarcophyton... You do use carbon... are aware of their propensity for terpene production? Bob Fenner>

PowerPoint on Allelopathy    1/18/17 Good evening, <TT> I have a green leather toadstool with patches of white opaque areas on the "face" that the polyps extend out of. It is opening and extending its polyps as it would normally and seems in good spirits despite the white patches. My first guess is that it is trying to "shed" as leathers will do, but I am more concerned for the safety of the other corals in the tank. If you upset the leather it can secrete toxins so I want to keep it as calm as possible. Will send pictures if you like. <Please do; well cropped... a few hundred Kbytes> I remember reading that you had a PowerPoint on allelopathy but I can't find it for the life of me. Would you mind directing me to the link? If you have any suggested reading for me I would appreciate it. Thank you so much for your insight and your wonderful website. I've spent literally hours getting lost here. <Don't think we have such a ppt... I put away most all... and have for twenty years.> S pozdravem / Best regards, Taylor Thrasher <I suspect you're right re the Sarcophyton shedding... which they do almost continuously, then shed a bunch at times. I encourage you to triple dose iodide-ate, turn up your circulation, aeration; refresh you chemical filtrants (Chemi-Pure and PolyFilter are faves here... and keep your eyes on your other livestock for signs of stress. Bob Fenner> Re: PowerPoint on Allelopathy         1/21/17 Good afternoon, <Cheers double T> Thank you for the prompt response. Here are some photos of my mean ol' toadstool leather. <Mmm; Oh, I see; they're linked below> It's been a busy week so this photo was taken only minutes after lights on. It's "eyes" are still opening but you can see by the photos that it is quickly responding to light and polyps are expanding to full glory. I've seen this coral upset when I had to remove all the Aiptasia anemones when I rescued it. I've noticed this animal is particularly sensitive to stimulus of any kind but "upset" takes the form of zero to weak polyp extension and frequently folded in a weird position. <You're a keen observer> In the photo you can see where there is some irritation on the stem which I believe is caused by some fisherman-like worm near its base. It has a threadlike (not glossy spider web like) tentacle similar to a spaghetti worm that it touches the base with. If you think this is harmful or a precursor to the agitation, any suggestions for removal are much appreciated. <I definitely would remove this... and look about, see if any have bored into the Sarcophyton near the base itself... AND cut these out if so> Google: https://goo.gl/photos/QSyaCa6yNVg1L6Bm8 <Nope> If that doesn't work, Photo1: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3nvu70w318aay1p/Toadstool%20Leather%201.jpg?dl=0 Photo2: https://www.dropbox.com/s/95b7kwp9kcz6au7/Toadstool%20Leather%202.jpg?dl=0 Photo3: https://www.dropbox.com/s/o3ripa78adicp3j/Toadstool%20Leather%203.jpg?dl=0 <These do> I purchased some Chemi-Pure and will be implementing that into my system. PolyFilter is on the way from Amazon. Thanks again for your help. S pozdravem / Best regards, Taylor Thrasher <I would do all that I mentioned in our first email exchange; particularly the Iodide-ate administration. Bob Fenner>

Common Questions but SO IMPORTANT TO ME PLEASE. Sarco, carpet anem. mis beh.      4/19/13
I have a 140 gallon reef tank with over 150 gallons of water in the sump.
All Parameters are great, all my hard corals, anemones, etc
<Should I assume you're aware of allelopathy twixt Cnidarians?>
 are open and healthy.....but my 2 Tyrees (aust. green leather toadstools) won't open.
<... Sarcophyton species... Not Steve per se>
It's been 3 months....They are about 6 inches below the water level with LED lights above. HELP PLEASE HELP
<...>
I've added Iodine, I've put healthy opening green leather frags right next to them, etc.....Any genius ideas?
<... they/these may have been compromised ahead of your receiving them... there may be the celebrated (mentioned above) chemical warfare going on... Esp. among competing Alcyoniids... >
2nd minor question.....Healthy expensive Carpets have moved behind the rock
<A good clue>
and are open under the lights behind the rock. I can't reach to try and move which wouldn't be smart anyway.......Any tricks to get Carpets to move, i.e. turn off lights on that side of the tank or increase annoying flow to that area, etc....
<Just patience... if anything, moving other stinging-celled life that's too near them (w/in a foot)... I would be reading re the measure of RedOx, using ozone likely, chemical filtrants, adding a much, MUCH larger RDP refugium, humongous DSB to this system... for the reasons that will become obvious to you while reading on WWM>
Your loyal follower begs for your opinion....
Thanks,
Adam
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Lemnalia sp. doing poorly 11/12/11
Good Morning Crew & thanks so much for sharing your expertise & experience with others.
<A pleasure, honor to share>
I few weeks ago I changed my filtration system on my 90 gallon reef from a Pro Clear wet/dry with bio balls to a 30 gallon sump with refugium. After re-starting the pump there was a ton of bubbles in the tank. I added a filter sock on the drain which took care of the bubbles. I began to notice my Lemnalia sp., normally about 5 inches tall, was very contracted. The "branches" will not extend either during the day or night. The specimen was a light tan. Now it's more white. Does this specimen need to be fed anything in particular to revive it?
<Perhaps... at least the addition/boosting of iodide-ate supplement>
I noticed that several Discosoma mushrooms had grown around the Lemnalia, so I moved it to another part of the system where there were no mushrooms.
The system is loaded with these mushrooms, approximately 100 of them. I did read on WWM that allelopathy with the mushrooms can eventually win over the Lemnalia. Is that to say the Lemnalia can't survive in this tank?
<Is likely losing to the Corallimorphs. I would be moving this soft coral to another system>
It's now 1 week since I moved the Lemnalia & it shows no signs of improvement & I've actually seen some black "dots" on the specimen that I snipped off because they appeared necrotic. I am running activated carbon in the sump.
I'm wondering if I should try to get rid of it, or if there is something else I should do.
System parameters are:
90g display with 30g sump
CA= 400
Alk=2.5 meq/l
Sg= 1.023
Am= 0
NO4= 1.0
Temp= 80-82 F
Ph= 8.0 to 8.2 (am to pm)
Phosphate test is empty & on order so I can't be sure.
<Need some; measurable... which you very likely have... given the health of
the 'Shrooms>
Equipment:
Pump= Rio 3200 (approx 1900 gph)
3 power heads
The Lemnalia sp. gets moderately high flow, but not directly
Lights= 500 w PC
Turboflotor Blue 1000 skimmer
UV sterilizer 25w
GFO reactor
<Mmm, unless there's some compelling reason for using this, I'd get rid of it>
Thanks for your help folks
Doug S. St Joseph, MI
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Branching Montiporas retracting polyps, HPO4 angle 11/12/11
Thanks Bob, I was reading on your site that removing too much phosphate can also cause these symptoms of starving the corals, true?
<Mmm, can, as well as too little; but you don't have excessive HPO4, and you report/ed that your other Cnidarians were fine>
I tested my PO4 yesterday with my Hanna checker and it was zero, so I took my gfo reactor and carbon reactor off line to see if letting the PO4 build up some to around 0.04 on my checker would help?
<As well as just simple food additions for your other livestock>
The reason I am leaning that was is based on what my last PO4 reading was before the symptom started showing up (my recorded PO4 level was about 0.05). Could the water be too "clean" for the branching Montis?
<Not likely; no>
Based on the limited information you have about my system, would you still lean toward the Zoanthids?
<Some form/source of allelopathy, yes. The Zoanthids/Mats are the most likely suspect of what you list/ed>
The branching type Monti's that are affected are in different areas of the tank and have been in the same spot for several months before this occurred.
<As I surmised>
One final thought (change that I made just before this happened) I had several smaller power heads for flow in my tank, that were not on any sort of timers or wave makers, so I replaced them and reconfigured my flow with the two Koralia magnum 7s on an RKE wave maker. This has provided a LOT more varied flow for my tank and just after making that change I noticed the branching Monti's retracting all of their polyps.
<Could be a factor as well>
Just want to mention that none of the Montis are directly in front of the power heads and are not getting blasted with flow. Could it be the increased flow is "stirring up" the Zoas released chemicals causing this?
<Yes>
Based on this limited info about my situation, what would you do in this
situation?
<Nothing overt. I might increase/pulse whatever source of iodide-ate you utilize, as well as the items mentioned in last email...>
Looking forward to your responses.
Thanks,
<Welcome. BobF>

Leather Tree's Melting... Too little info. 9/15/11 Hey Guys, <Jason> I came home to find my two leather trees melting away in my tank. I have had these for two years and have been great up until say 3 days ago. They shrunk down and I thought they were doing their normal shrink down then expand back out thing but tonight they are falling apart. I snapped these pictures, I have more than this but figured these would be a good start. I checked all of the parameters and they are all within normal limits <... need numbers> and have been the same for the last several months. The trees have been in the same spot for months, nothing new has been added to the tank in 6+ weeks, <... and to know what other stock is here...> haven't changed anything from our normal routine lately. So any ideas how to salvage these? <... Not w/o data> If you need more pictures or closer shots please let me know. Thanks, Jason <Mmm, peruse here: http://wetwebmedia.com/AlcyDisF14.htm and the linked files above in the series. Likely the issue here is either chemical or environmental... Bob Fenner>

Re: Leather Tree's Melting 9/16/11 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrates <5 down from 20 about 3 weeks ago. Salinity is 1.026. Phosphates .04 Stock is as follows 3 Chromis Yellow Tang Hippo Tang Kole Tang 2 clowns 2 Mandarin 2 blennies 2 Dwarf Angles There are a assortment of corals 1 closed Brain Several Ricordea Several colonies of Zoas Several leathers but only two effected Assortment of sps Frogspawn Blastos Hope this is the info you were looking for <Mmm, well, am leaning more toward a cascade even/allelopathy. Do read where you've been referred. BobF>

Cabbage Leather...At a Loss For What To Do/Sinularia Health 1/11/11
Hello WWM,
<Hello Wes>
I love reading and finding out all the cool info on your site!
<Glad you enjoy and thank you.>
I have an unhappy and, I fear, dying Cabbage Leather Soft coral. I got this coral 11 months ago along with a Finger Leather coral. The Finger leather is on one side of the 220 tank and The Cabbage the other. The Finger Leather has grown from 6 inch across to over 10 inches in 3 different ways. The cabbage leather went from a 1.5 inch circular frag to over 7inches.
<Nothing wrong with that.>
About 6 weeks ago both leathers began to go downhill. My tank parameters/maintenance had become laxed over the busy Autumn.
<Can lead to problems.>
The Phosphates had increased to 0.05+ and a brown algea <algae> was growing.
The algea <algae> is slimy and will grow up to 6 or more inches a day in long strings, sometimes. It is not like any of the cyno <Cyano> that I had ever had or seen. My pH was 7.8, the Alk was below 7 dKH.
Since then, I have done some major cleaning to the RO/DI unit, UV sterilizer, and swapping out some of the overgrown live rock with some clean rock from in the sump. The system is a 400 gallon multi tank set up, with Pre-Sump+Skimmer, Sump+Remote DSB & live rock chambers, Refugium, 2 small display tanks with no algae problems and the main 220 display.
The stock in the 220 is:
Many Mushrooms (growing and multiplying like crazy the past 4 months)
Finger Leather
Cabbage Leather
4 Kenya Trees (plus a dozen+young all over)
Yellow Tang
Azul Damsel
Sunset Pseudochromis
Spotted Mandarin
Royal Gramma
Cinnamon Clown
Scooter Dragonette
All fish are 11 months to several years old.
2 Bubble Tip Anemones (was one until a few months back when it split)
<No overstocking for sure, one good thing.>
a growing number of glass anemones (I bought some Aiptasia-X <Aiptasia> to try to check these)
I have brought the tank parameters to this:
1.026 specific gravity
78 F
8.0 PH
0 ammonia
0 nitrites
2 nitrates
0.025 phosphates
11.2 dKH
260 calcium
1420 magnesium
Everything is looking good now except for the cabbage leather. It is in constant 'shedding' mode. The Finger looked bad for 2 weeks last month but now it is fine. I am thinking about moving the Cabbage leather to my refugium.
<What is your total flow rate in the 220?>
I cannot get my pH up with Buffer, dosing Kalk (one time) and 2 part Alk/calcium additives. My calcium has never been that low. (normally 350)
Have I messed up the ionic balance? I made sure not to add Calcium chloride.
<Likely, you were just lax on dosing as well as tank maintenance. Nothing wrong with using Calcium Chloride as a quick boost, but would not use it continually.>
This gooey, stringy brown algae is still present, but I am beating it back with all the water changes and siphoning. I only need to siphon it off once a week to keep it under control, whereas early on I needed to do it multiple times.
<This will take time to eradicate, didn't happen overnight and will not cease overnight.>
The Cabbage leather never had any problems till this algae showed...could it somehow interfered with its own algae?
<Unlikely, more to do with water quality going downhill.>
I read online that they have a symbiotic algae. I also read that they need iodine. I wonder if I should get yet another additive.
<What type lighting are you using? In most cases, Sinularia, which is a very hardy coral, fair better in brighter light and moderate to strong water flow which help rid them of
any tissue being shed. You should get enough iodine with regular water changes to satisfy any requirement for this element.>
Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated....as I don't want it to perish.
The Refugium is not the best place for it...but it is free of that brown algae.
<I would continue good maintenance practices and give it some time to recover.>
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Wes