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FAQs about Disease Treatment of Soft Corals of the
Family Alcyoniidae
FAQs on Alcyoniid Disease:
Alcyoniid Health 1,
Alcyoniid Disease 2,
Alcyoniid Disease 3,
Alcyoniid Disease 4,
Alcyoniid
Disease 5, Alcyoniid
Disease 6, Alcyoniid
Disease 7, Alcyoniid
Disease 8, Alcyoniid
Disease 9, Alcyoniid Health 10,
Alcyoniid Disease 11, Alcyoniid
Health 12, Alcyoniid Disease 13,
Alcyoniid Disease
14, Alcyoniid
Disease 15,
FAQs on Alcyoniid Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Environment,
Nutritional, Pathogenic (Infectious,
parasitic), Predator/Pests,
Social, Trauma,
Related Articles: Soft Corals of the Family
Alcyoniidae
Related FAQs: Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae,
Alcyoniids 2, Alcyoniids 3, Alcyoniids 4, Alcyoniid ID, Alcyoniid Selection, Alcyoniid Compatibility, Alcyoniid Systems, Alcyoniid Behavior, Alcyoniid Feeding, Alcyoniid Propagation, Soft Coral Propagation, Soft Coral Health, Dyed Corals, Soft Coral Propagation, Nephtheids, Dendronephthya, Paralcyoniids, Nidaliids, Xeniids, Dyed
Corals,
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Toadstool Mushroom Help, hlth.
3/17/09
Hi All,
I have a large toadstool mushroom that has some tissue damage on it. I
was away for the weekend, and one of my colt leather corals decided to
reproduce by dropping some of its branches. Consistent with my luck,
one of the colt branches became lodged in a powerhead intake, and
proceeded to spray bits and pieces of itself onto the toadstool
mushroom that usually enjoys the current from the powerhead. There are
two white, spot, about 1in in diameter on the toadstool now, the tissue
is dying and beginning to fall off. I'm guessing this is probably
due from chemicals from the colt?
<Possibly>
The spots are almost exactly where the flow from the powerhead hits the
toadstool, and now its has been retracted for a few days. I have
removed the remaining bits of the colt from the intake, and cleaned it
thoroughly, but is there anyway I can help the toadstool?
<Mmm, I'd dose (double) whatever Iodine-containing supplement
you have/use (Lugol's?)... and an hour or more later double up on
activated carbon in your filter flow path... That, and stay
observant>
Thank you so much,
Dan
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Distressed Leather? (Leather Coral
Malady) 12/11/07 Hey, <Right back atcha! Scott F. in
tonight!> I have a Toadstool Leather that I have had for a few years
now. It had a yellow discoloration on the cap in the past and I put the
leather in Lugol's and it seemed to take care of the problem. It
has returned and the Lugol's doesn't seem to work this time.
The middle of the cap has begun to decay, or I guess you could call
them areas of necrosis. It hasn't look healthy for a few months
now. <Hmm.. not a good sign. Something may be amiss here!> I have
placed in Lugol's solution 3 times during this time period. Is
there anything else that I can do? Any ideas on what might cause this?
Thank you for your help. Zach Stamey <Well, Zach- this type of
"necrosis" could be caused by a few different things, ranging
from a localized reaction by the coral to something lodged in its
tissue (such as a piece of sand, debris, etc.) to a possible response
to poor or inadequate flow, or degraded water chemistry. Do some
investigation and see if you can correct any problems that you find.
The remedy for this condition is typically the Lugol's dips that
you have already employed, or freshwater dips. If this does not seem to
reverse the condition, you could always play "ER" and
surgically cut out the affected area with a sharp razor blade. As you
probably know, these corals generally respond well to such procedures,
and heal quickly if environmental conditions (flow, water quality,
etc.) are maintained. With some careful observations, minor system
"tweaks", and some perseverance, you can help your Leather
coral regain its former glory and thrive for years! Hope this helps!
Regards, Scott F.>
Distressed Leather (Cont'd.) 12/16/07
Thanks for the info. <You're quite welcome!> Is there a limit
to how many times I should try the Lugol's treatment? <I would
not try it more than once a day...maybe once every other day. Not based
on any scientific data, just personal experience...I don't like to
overuse the stuff.> I am pretty sure that its not water quality or
water movement. The water quality is maintain very well. I may have to
be a surgeon for a day! <Break out the razor blade and get to work!
Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>
| Damaged Sinularia...What To Do? -- 09/17/07
Hi crew, <<Hiya Monica>> Love your site, thanks a lot
for all the information. <<Hope you find it of use...>>
I have a Sinularia sp that I just got. I put it in the QT and few
days after I did a freshwater dip with Flatworm Exit (a friend
advised but I did it with freshwater instead of saltwater... wrong
!!!). <<Mmm, indeed...most corals do not take well to
freshwater dips in my experience>> I saw something like a
necrotic part but it didn't have any smell. I took it out
cleaned it and put it back. It didn't help. <<How
so?>> I am attaching a pic. <<I see it...possibly a
physical injury/scarring as a result of collection>> Now I
don't know if I should cut it (have never done it) or if is on
its way to recuperate. Please advise. Thanks. Monica Johlic
<<Unless you're certain the damaged tissue is decomposing
or the wound is spreading/enlarging I would just keep an eye on it
and leave it be to heal on its own (make sure the coral receives
good water flow to allow it to shed metabolites/bacteria). If you
determine it to be necessary, you can carefully remove the diseased
or necrotic tissue with a new razorblade and see if this stops the
progression. Eric Russell>> |
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| Sinularia dura looking bad
5/3/07 Hi Crew, <Jason> I have a Sinularia dura
that's been in my tank for over a year and a half (came with my
first LR). It has been doing well all this time, but for the past 2
weeks (about) parts of it have been looking bad -- no polyp
extension I can see, crusty-looking surface. All my water
parameters are in line except a somewhat low alkalinity of 7.5. All
of the other corals in the tank look normal. <When, where in
doubt... Water changes, added circulation, cleaning up of your
skimmer... if necessary/practical, moving the specimen/s> One
thing to note is that I have a fair amount of green hair algae.
<Ahh... perhaps a clue... as do dis-improving water quality...
Tests?> I've been trying to remove it slowly through
siphoning and water changes. Here are two pictures, hopefully these
will help. In this first one, you can see the left-most
"horn" looks good, with polyps and a translucent pink
color. The others have no polyps and look duller. http://picasaweb.google.com/jasonm1/AquariumLife/photo#5060129994889755474
This one is taken from a different viewpoint, where you can see the
top surface of the coral better. http://picasaweb.google.com/jasonm1/AquariumLife/photo#5060129831680998210
Thanks! Jason <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyondisfaqs.htm and the
linked files above. Bob Fenner> |
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Leathers flaking away 4/13/07 I have
recently purchased two new leathers, one green and purple finger
leather and a colt leather. The colt is drooped over changing color
from dark to light purple and also appears to be separating itself from
the rock it was attached to, should I be concerned or take any action I
have only had it for about a week? <This is a bad sign, I would
attempt to remove this coral to a separate tank, using the same tank
water then altering this slowly afterwards. Also, there are likely
common scavengers -- crabs etc - that will soon start pulling this
apart when they discover it> My main concern lies with the finger
leather, the coral seems to be flaking apart but its color has not
changed much, today I was scraping algae from the front glass and the
bottom stalk actually fell right off the base of this coral seems to be
completely flaking apart is this coral doomed and what could have
caused this I have other corals that have been thriving. <It sounds
like you have a lot of necrotic tissue present around the coral's
base. Probably due to over-handling (contact with hands etc), also how
did you acclimate this coral? As for both to be purchased at the same
time and both have the same problem an acclimation procedure may be
partially to blame. I would 'frag' this coral immediately to
have hope of saving at least a percentage of it. 'Have a VERY sharp
razor blade or scalpel ready. A needle with clean nylon thread (or
fishing line) ready and waiting to stitch too. Also a piece of small
rock or rubble as well. Move 3/4-1" above the highest necrotic
area of the base of the stalk. Cut clean and fast through the animal.
You must wear gloves and keep the procedure down to a minimum time of
handling. After the cut, look at the exposed trunk and be sure that you
cleared the soft and necrotic area... if so, run a stitch or two
through the base (no more than an inch from the bottom) and tie it off
to a piece of rock. Return it to the exact same place it was in the
tank and do not touch it for weeks. Maintain strong water flow and very
aggressive skimming in the tank. Small daily doses of iodine may be
therapeutic for the tank too (not extra iodine... just your weekly dose
broken down to daily).' -- Thanks to Anthony for that explanation.
Also see here - http://www.wetwebmedia.com/softcorhealth.htm> Water
tem 78-79 kH 8 Ca is high over 520 Nitrates are low <Figures
needed> Nitrites 0 Salinity .029 I know is high <Would lower to
nearer NSW - .026> 3 watts per gal t5 72 gal bow Two opposing Seio
820 powerheads <More reading needed, this a common problem with this
common species with a common answer commonly available. Also please
spell check and punctuate all sentences. Olly>
| To cut or not to cut, that is the
question! 3/26/07 Hello again guys and gals! I
wasn't sure what to think about this coral this morning when I
came in, I noticed a small area on it that appears to be dead
or dying tissue. (Close up) <I see this> see the light spot
on the underside of the small "nub" sticking out? What
would that be? <Mmm... a sort of ecdysis perhaps...
maybe a bitten off injury... could be a "stung" reaction
area by another Cnidarian> This coral stays completely open and
extended all day, this photo was taken during the dawn
hours of the tanks light cycle so this coral was
just opening. Water Parameters:
PH - 8.4 during the day No3 - <2 Po4 - <.3 dKH - 12.5
Ca - 400 NH4 - 0 No2 - 0 SG - 1.025 Temp - 76 - 78
degrees F Any input on what this is or what to do would
be wonderful, thank you so much! Brian Crenshaw <I
wouldn't do much of anything here... Do you utilize Iodine-ide
in your system... See WWM re> PS sorry for the mix up with the
photos! Also, any idea what the white spots are in the
third photo? <Mmm, maybe Ascidians... BobF> |
Re: To cut or not to cut, that is the
question! 3/27/07 Hello again Bob, How are you
today? <Fine, but bushed... traveling> About the small white
ovals I mentioned before, would it be possible that those
might be coco worms developing? <Mmm, no not likely> Mine
have spawned twice now, and it has been about 2 - 3 weeks since the
first time. Every time I do a water change towards the
end of my tanks dusk cycle with slightly cooler,
and slightly less saline water than what is in the main
tank the male coco worm gets to work sending his
streamers of sperm out and almost as soon as he is done
the female starts sending out pink streams of eggs out into
the water. I do plan on experimenting and testing this further
but those conditions seem to work like a charm. It is quite
fun to watch, like a discovery channel special! <Sounds
great... Perhaps a more "close-up" photograph...> The
leather coral I mentioned in the previous email seems to be
doing alright, it shed off some skin yesterday and seems to be
a bit more perky today. I was (am) thinking that perhaps
it was stung by my torch coral. About three weeks ago I
was moving some things around in the tank and I bumped
one of the torches heads pretty hard (I felt terrible about it) and
early last week I noticed that head starting to
"wither away" it is now nearly completely
gone, no sign of any kind of infection ex: brown jelly or any
other type that I am aware of. While this head was
wearing away could a piece have broken off been caught
by the current and blown into the leather stinging it
on impact and causing that kind of damage? <Mmm,
yes> As far as the damaged area of the leather coral
is concerned should I remove it, or just keep an eye on it?
<I'd do the latter> Would it possibly grow
back? <Yes, certainly> Also, with no sign of infection on the
torch, should anything be done to it, or am I doing the
right thing by just watching it for further problems?
<Read... on WWM re Euphylliid, Scleractinian Disease/s...>
Current water parameters in the aquarium are still the same: PH -
8.4 during the day No3 - <2 Po4 - <.3 dKH - 12.5
Ca - 400 NH4 - 0 No2 - 0 SG - 1.025 Temp - 76 -
78 degrees F There is a bit of sponge growth in the tank
now too, I found 6 Syconoid sponges growing on a couple of
pieces of live rock. From the readings I have taken from the
tank, I know the dKH is high, but does anything else look off
to you? <No> I read on WWM that these sponges typically
grow if the tank has poor skimming, over feeding, basically
poor water quality. I have been feeding the tank very lightly
every other day, mainly for the inverts 3 cleaner shrimp,
7 Nassarius snails, and lots and lots of amphipods. After I
did the water change I also had a brown algae bloom, it
mainly appeared on the sand bed wherever light hits it,
and in small patches on a few live rocks, it looks a
bit slimy so I am guessing perhaps that some of what I
am seeing might be bacteria rather than algae?
<Possibly> I really hope my microscope gets here today. I am
considering purchasing some Cerith snails to stir up the sand
bed more, would this in your opinion be a wise purchase? <Are
useful species>
Thank you,
Brian Crenshaw
<BobF> |
Re: follow up on "coral surgery".
Alcyoniid hlth. 4/4/07 Hello Bob, How are you
today? <Fine my friend, thank you> I wanted to let you know
the Sinularia coral with the stung and dying patch on it is doing
great now, I took it out of the display tank and placed it in a
large casserole dish mostly full of aquarium water where I used an
Exacto knife to cut away the dead and infected tissue. I also use
vinyl gloves any time I am handling corals so my skin oils
don't damage any parts of them. <Very good> After the
"surgery" I then placed the coral in a Lugol's dip
for 17 minutes and then let it sit in some clean salt water of the
same temperature, specific gravity, ph, and so on of the aquarium
for about 2 hours where it did shed some skin. Today it is open,
perky and looking loads better! I did have a couple of other
questions for you. You mentioned in the previous email that it is
not a good Idea to place 2 Sinularia sp. corals in the same
aquarium, <Correct... they compete for space in the wild... a
dispersal mechanism... helps to ensure survival of the
species...> I have no idea if mine are clones or not, and I am
not sure how to tell. They do seem to be doing well though, and
have been for a month now (not long I know). What is the danger in
keeping these together? Should I leave them together if they seem
to be fine, and do something if the situation becomes other than
favorable? <No likely need for overt reaction... just something
to be aware of...> Or would you recommend removing one right
away? I also have a large Cladiella sp. coral in this tank that is
doing quite well, all three corals are on different levels of the
tank, the Cladiella sp. is at the highest point in the tank almost
4 inches from the surface and loves it! I am doing bi-weekly water
changes on the tank until the new filtration system arrives. All
animals are doing well, I figured out what the white ovals in the
tank are (we talked about those in a previous email), they turned
out to be Nerite snail eggs, <Ahh!> now all 4 species of
snail introduced intentionally into the aquarium have reproduced.
My coco worms have twice now in front of my fiancé© and
I. Today I noticed my feather dusters seem to be splitting into
two, I am guessing this is a form of asexual reproduction. I now
have 5 Xenia colonies where there was once one, and my Anthelia
coral has now become 7 colonies! My crocea clams are also showing
wonderful growth! Have you ever heard of Life Reef Filtration
Systems by Jeff Turcheck? <Yes> If so, what is your opinion
on his products? <Their products appear to be well made> I
was considering getting a filtration system made by him. Yesterday
we also introduced our first fish back to the reef after nearly 5
weeks of the aquarium running fallow. He had been in quarantine for
4 weeks and was losing weight from not eating, he is very healthy
other than that. He is stuffing himself with amphipods and small
crustaceans in the sand and rock, and seems extremely happy! He
likes sitting in places where he can "people watch". My
last question for you is about 3 "Yasha haze" gobies I
have, they have had some black spots on them for what must be 2
weeks now, I can't Identify what they are, I have done
freshwater dips with Methylene blue, and they are in quarantine
with copper in the system, any suggestions or ideas on what this
might be? <Likely just some sort of "stress
markings"... I would not expose such small fishes to long
periods of quarantine or much chemical use> I will try to get
some good photos to send you so you can see what I am dealing with
on them. As always thank you for your help and time Bob! Brian
Crenshaw
<Thank you. Bob Fenner> |
| Re: Sinularia hlth., repro.
4/13/07 Hello Bob and Crew! I had another concern to run by you
today. My Sinularia sp. coral is having a possible issue again. I
don't know if you remember what happened before or not but my
Sinularia coral had a small branch that developed a white (ish)
area on it. We both agreed that it was most likely stung and
infected. I had cut the infected branch off and it is almost
completely healed now and doing great. Now, however there is
another branch doing it and this time I know it wasn't injured.
Could this be some form of reproduction? <Mmm, possibly> I
know some corals will drop branches and those will attach to
substrate and grow. Have you seen/ heard of this type of coral
doing that? <Yes> The "infected" area seems to
spread around the arm to be dropped and thins out an area until it
breaks off. At least it seems so, when I was cutting the arm off of
it the first time it just broke off, then I cut the rest of the
light area off. What would you recommend I do with this coral?
Thank you as always for your time and consideration. Take care,
Brian <Have heard/read of this "dispersal
mechanism"... a version of "fragmentation", asexual
reproduction... Does it portend something "missing",
"overly-stressful" in this colony's environment? Bob
Fenner> |
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| Leather hlth... predation?
Allelopathy? 2/22/07 Hello Crew <Wayne> I
could really use your help here. Can't seem to find
anything on the site. I know I've been writing
you a lot lately, but questions keep coming. My leather
seems to be falling apart. See pics attached. I woke up
the other day, and noticed that one of its stalks/arms was missing.
I thought maybe it was the Condy anemone, maybe my Tuskfish ate
it...and dismissed the incident. <Could be the effect of
either...> Well, I found the stalk that had fallen off, and it
was dead and starting to rot (brown, slimy and stinky). You can see
where the stalk fell off on the pic...it's the big white spot.
It seems like the spot is spreading, and the next stalk appears to
be weakening. I figured if a stalk fell off, it would in essence
frag itself, so I was startled when I found it dead. Any thoughts?
The leather is 1.5 years old and has grown tremendously over the
years. I just added more LR 1 week before this happened. Maybe a
hitchhiker of some sort. <Mmm... I'd move this specimen if
it were mine... away from whatever the mal-influence is here...>
I have a Condy anemone, some zoos, <These could also be a source
of trouble here> and a colt coral. Also have Volitans lion,
Harlequin Tusk, and a damsel. Parasite maybe? <Mmm, the last is
unlikely... If you have to leave this animal here, I would check
your water quality and bolster your Iodide supplementation... if it
continues to disimprove, I would definitely move it... and if it
"falls apart" even more, frag it... You have read on WWM
re Alcyoniid health I take it. Bob Fenner> |
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| Sarcophyton Health - 03/13/2006 I have a new reef
aquarium setup (first time reefer) that I am now to the point of
adding corals to. The first corals added were Yellow
Colony Polyps, a Sarcophyton Leather Toadstool coral and green
Button Polyp (Zoanthid). They all did well for the
first week and I added a few more corals - perhaps too
soon. New corals were an aquacultured green Sinularia
(three to four inches from the original Sarcophyton), a green
Sarcophyton, a small aqua cultured Capnella and a
Cladiella. Water parameters are 0 ammonia, nitrites,
nitrates, 420 calcium, 11dKH , 1100 magnesium, 8.2 PH, 80~81
degrees, 1.025 salinity. I add Calxmax daily (any
experience with this product?) <Nope.> to buffer calcium and
replenish trace elements. I also change 10 gallons of
water weekly on a 46 gallon bow
front tank. Lights are 150W metal halide for
6 hours a day <Lets get this up to 10 or 12. The
reefs get more than 6 hours of sunlight per day.> and 135W of
blue actinic for 13 hours a day. The leather in question
is in the lower middle of the tank in moderate water
flow. Water is from a combined RO/DI unit with Tropic
Marine Pro Reef salt. There is an external protein
skimmer with refreshed activated carbon as I refreshed it when the
new corals added. The original Sarcophyton was doing
well. It was just finishing shedding it's mucus for
the first time and was opening up again when the new corals were
added. After one day, its health started to declined
quickly. It was drooping this morning and I noticed the
base turning white as well as the fringe of one of its folds (new
corals were added 2.5 days ago). The newly added
Sarcophyton is doing very well but is on the other end of the tank.
<May want to dose iodine/iodide here, will help.> I feed
DT's Phytoplankton and Oyster eggs as
directed. <Good products.> When the Cladiella was
added it did not adjust well and sagged after one day - turns out
that I did not rinse it in salt water to remove the mucous, I
rinsed it and moved it to a higher water flow area - the rinsing
perked it up, but the original water flow may have been fine as it
started disintegrating quickly in the new water flow (beginners
mistake). <Can't expect corals to adjust in one day.> I
stitched the healthiest fragment to a piece of live rock and
discarded the rest which seemed beyond hope. Hoping for
the best here. I suspect that the declining health of the
Sarcophyton is being caused by chemicals from the Cladiella Colt
Coral fragmenting or the neighboring Sinularia?
<Chemical warfare is possible.> We also had the first hot day
since the tank was setup and water temps rose to 83 in the
day. I am trying things to get the ambient temp back
below 80 via removing the clear cover,<aquarium cover?> fans,
house ac, etc... What do you think is the best course of
action? <I'd be moving some air across the lights.> Move
the Sarcophyton? Might I need to cut
it? I'll try another water change
today. <Lets wait a week, see what happens, don't
get yourself all tied in a knot.> I have a 20 gallon FOWLR tank
in the basement with a pair of Ocellaris clowns in it as well that
has sufficient lighting for corals. Any suggestions
would help. Thanks. <And thank you for writing so
well. First one today with no editing
needed. James (Salty Dog)> Brett |
Re: Sarcophyton Health - 03/13/2006 Thanks for the
quick response James! The base of the Sarcophyton
turning white is what has me concerned. I'll wait it
out, start dosing iodine daily as you suggest and send a picture
with my next question if things get worse. <Where the
corals displayed under MH lighting at the LFS? If not,
may have to slowly dose the photoperiod.> The light has built in
fans. It is a 36 inch Aqualight Pro. The tank
is acrylic and has a clear acrylic cover that goes over the opening
in the top. I had been leaving the cover on to minimize
evaporation, but I am going to start removing it in hopes that
evaporation will lower the temperature. <If the light
fixture does not have a protective acrylic cover I'd leave the
cover on the tank just to play it safe.> I'll add
a fan over the water next. The submersible pump seems to
add the most heat and is the core of my temperature problems.
<Is it possible to use an external pump?> Thanks
again. <James (Salty Dog)>
Brett |
| Re: Sarcophyton Health 3/16/06 James,
<Brett> Thanks for your help. The Sarcophyton
appears to be recovering quickly. <Good to hear.> I got the
temperature down two degrees. I added
Iodine. I also tested for iodine, but the color strip on
the test kit is extremely hard to read/match. Iodine
level "appear" to be in the range of natural seawater
now. When I got home, the Sarcophyton was finishing it
second sloughing in 1.5 weeks. Its polyps were
re-emerging and it started to stand back up. It appears
to be attaching to the large rock below the small fragment that it
was attached to when I bought it. I consider this a good
sign as the rock it came on is too small. I lost the Cladiella do
to a bad stitch job that came off the rock. I guess I
still need to perfect tying them off. The cover has a glass shield
so I am all set. The tank has an integrated filtration
area in the back so an external pump will require some
work/modifications. That may still be my best long term
option to control the temperature during the summer, as the pump,
lights and power heads increase the tank temperatures about 10
degrees over room temperature. The pump appears to
account for a large portion of the rise as I noted when I first
setup the tank. Thanks again for your
suggestions. <You're welcome.> Your web site
is a great resource. I am reading Anthony's book as
well. Great stuff. <Anthony thanks
you. James (Salty Dog)> Brett |
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Leather Coral 01-26-06 Hi Crew, <Mohamed> I have 2 Thin
Finger Leather Corals and 1 seems to have some die off. It gets sort of
mushy on the one side. I just done a water exchange calcium 400, ph
8.4, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 5.0, alkalinity 8, phosphate 0.1 and
magnesium 1300. (ppm) I have done a fresh water bath for 3 minutes and
an iodine dip for 15 minutes but the problem still continued so I cut
the part that is dying but with no luck (day 5). <Make sure to cut
into the good tissue to remove all the diseased tissue.> I had a
problem once with a Finger Leather Coral that had some die off but I
cut the patch that had the die off twice but with no luck and finally I
cut about ½ a inch away from the die off which seem to help. <As
mentioned above.> Is there a rule as to how much can be cut off from
the die off? <You want to make sure all diseased tissue is removed.
It is similar to tumor or cancer removal in that you go past the lesion
to ensure that it will not return.> I need to save this coral what
else can I do? <Cut it and do an iodine dip. Then place it in a
moderate flow area so the slime coat can be cleared away. Travis>
Thanks Mohamed.
Sick (Dead) Toadstool? 3/13/04 Hi all, <Hi Kevin, Adam
here. Sorry for the slow reply.> I have spent quite a bit of time
looking for an answer to my question but have not run across a specific
answer to date. On Feb. 19 (2 weeks+ ago) I received a rock with
several Xenia groupings, two types of mushrooms and a
toadstool. In bringing the rock home the toadstool seemed to
have shed a waxy outer layer and the Xenia appeared 'burnt' in
areas. The toadstool extended polyps for a couple of days
and then appeared to go dormant and slouch over. <All sounds quite
normal after being moved.> The Xenia disintegrated several days
later and I cut them back quite close to the base
rock. Since then the Xenia have started sprouting new arms
throughout all of the areas that were cut back but the toadstool is
inactive and the stalk is slowly taking on the colour of a
bruise. I enclose two photos. <The coral doesn't look
good, but as long as it doesn't start turning to mush or losing
tissue, I would tough it out. These animals often take many
weeks to recover from insults. If it stays in this state for
more than a couple of weeks, despite water changes, etc., I would
consider moving it to another tank. I have seen several
cases where Sarcophytons suffer for months despite every effort only to
quickly recover after being moved to another tank.> Parameters are:
SG 1.024
Temp 77
PH 8.2 Amon 0
NO3 0-trace
Phos 0-trace
Alk 4.5
Calc 300 (attempting to bring
up) The tank is a small 38 gallon with approx. 75 lbs. live rock, 12
times volume turnover per hour, 96 watt actinic (13 hrs) & 96 watt
10K (12 hrs). Dosing with strontium & iodine. <I would withhold
the Sr and I for a couple of weeks. These are both easily
overdosed and the experience of many aquarists who never supplement
them proves that with regular partial water changes, they are not
necessary.> Is this toadstool gone? How long should I
wait to further signs of life? Thanks for the great
resource. Kevin <I would perform a couple of 25% water
changes, hold the Sr and I and see how it does, but don't give up
yet! Best Regards. Adam>
Sufferin' Sarcophyton? (Leather Coral Staying Closed) I
have a Toadstool with pretty long "tentacles" and I have had
it for maybe 3 months. It always came out really nice, then
within the last 3 weeks it has not come out at all. I
have
other Toadstools with no problem and other corals in my tank that are
doing fine. Do you have any suggestion what could be
wrong. I have a 55 gal tank with 4 65 watt power compacts.
Thanks, Karen <Karen, I'm assuming that you're referring to
a "Toadstool Leather Coral", Sarcophyton. If this is the
coral that you're referring to, I wouldn't worry too much just
yet. These corals are well-known for their behavior of "closing
up" for periods of time while they shed a waxy organic coating.
Sometimes, they can remain closed up for many days. Given good quality
water conditions and proper lighting, they will often re-emerge to
their former glory. Just make sure that the tissue is still firm and
not necrotic. In fact, I just experienced this phenomenon for the first
time myself on a two-year-old specimen that I purchased from IPSF. If
this is really a cause for concern, do run a check of your basic water
parameters, and consider the possibility that some environmental factor
might have suddenly changed. Or, there is always the possibility of
allelopathic competition (i.e.; "chemical warfare") with
another coral nearby. Hopefully, it will simply be another case of the
"sloughing" phenomenon discussed above. Keep an eye on
things, and don't give up. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Leather coral troubles - 4/5/04 Hello- I tried posting this
first, but no response..... My leather coral (looks like an upside down
mushroom) had been drooping for about a week when I realized that he
wasn't going to make it back to upright. I have had him for about a
year and a little yellow goby had lived with him the whole time. The
goby would perch on top and survey the tank. <this is a Sarcophyton
correct?> Anyway, yesterday I took a glove and moved him to get a
better look and saw that he was going necrotic on me. <Hmmmmm> I
immediately took him out with some tank water and added some iodine all
into my girlfriends Tupperware and cut off most of his stalk, which was
decomposing. I sewed him up to a rock and he actually looked better
with polyps a little extended. <Good move in my opinion> It seems
that although the polyps are still extended the death is still
spreading. Should I cut him down more? <Hard to say without seeing
it but if the necrosis seems to be spreading then cut it about a 1/2
inch above the necrotic area> There were no parasites in his stalk.
<Weird. Sounds like one to me> All water parameters are all good.
Everything else in the tank is all good, from pulsing xenia to clams...
Oh yes, there are no corals next to him or even close to him.
<Excellent. Look through our FAQS on our site if you haven't
already> The closet inhabitant next to him was a sponge that was
about 4" from his base. <Well, never know. Sponges can be
aggressive as well but probably not the issue though> thanks,
<Good luck ~Paul> Miguelito Arias
Colt coral combustion! Good evening gentleman! A strange
thing happened this evening involving a colt coral and I want to get
your thoughts... Tonight I noticed that a colt coral in my tank looked
deflated around the main stalk. Further observation showed that
apparently the branches were separating from the main stalk.
<Ahhh, yes... self destruction. Not always as bad as it sounds...
sometimes like now perhaps it appears to be strategic. A stress induced
strategy of propagation. Animal dissolves at forks in the branches and
frags drift to a (hopefully) better spot> Polyps were still extended
and it really didn't look that bad. It just looked a little
unhappy. When I picked up the coral to check it out, several of the
long beautiful branches simply floated away in the current across the
aquarium. After my wife stopped screaming (sheesh) I picked up the
coral and gave it a closer examination. The "nose" test
showed that the coral is not in a state of overall decay and neither
are the branches. In the middle of the main stalk, at the point where
the branches begin to separate from the main stalk, there was a
necrotic ball. I scraped it out very easily and the hole that it left
looks very clean. <hmmm... could simply have been an infected
spot from minor damage/attack/nibbling> I am planning to mount the
loose branches and sew the main stalk back to its' base.
<excellent... the best method for attaching this creature> I am
surmising that the necrotic spot in the center of the stalk was caused
from sediment deposit in that area. <indeed possible, but a
sign of poor water movement in the tank of so> I am led to believe
this because there was lots of sand in this spot. What do you
think? <agreed... a likely possibility> Should I just
optimize water conditions and let this incident go? <yes...
with close observation and improved water flow> Do you think the
branches will make it through this traumatic experience? <easily
yes> Possible mitigating factors: B-ionic was started a month
ago. <a fine product... be sure to shake vigorously before
each use (calcium part stratifies and imbalance of dosing can occur
with such liquid products> I add about 60 ml.s a day before the
lights come on. The coral was moved at about the same time the B-ionic
was started. ammonia- Always 0 nitrite- Always 0 nitrate- Nearly 0 Ca-
280 <definitely a bit low... get into the 300s approaching 400ppm
Ca. Kalkwasser will be fine> dKH- about 7.4 ph- 8.0-8.4 lights- 420
watts of VHO. Bulb are a year old and I have ordered new ones. Current
configuration: 1 50/50, 1 Aquasun, 1 actinic. Circulation:
approximately 1300-1400 gph. <also... colt coral are one of the few
coral believed to feed well on phytoplankton. Do consider a planted
refugium or liquid supplement to feed this coral for optimal health>
Thanks for your time and energy! Dave <our great pleasure. Anthony
and WWM>
Past & Present, Green Finger Coral - 7/14/03 Hello &
top of the day! <to you as well my friend> Anthony, I hope you
don't mind seeing progressive photos of a green finger coral you
helped me "fix" back in January of '03. <a pleasure to
see> Do you remember the "Mash 4077th" emergency surgery
you talked me thru? <yep... I do recall... carving out the necrotic
area at the base as it were> As my very first coral, this beauty has
nearly doubled its size twice over! The series of pictures began in mid
January & ends 7-13-'03 (the pic with the shrimp on it!)
<much appreciation for sharing, mate.... do need to ask you to send
non-zipped files, and shrunk in size for us to view/post (low-med res
jpegs)> Every time I look at the coral, I want to call ya and say
thanks for teaching me all you have in the course of this
tank. What better way than to let you see for yourself how the coral is
doing! Many thanks, again for your knowledge & willingness to share
with the hobby. Peace & incense, Stormbringer. <its truly
redeeming and inspiring to hear my friend. Keep on truckin!
Anthony>
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