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FAQs about Health/Diseases, Pests of Soft
Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae 8
Related Articles:
Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae
Related FAQs:
Alcyoniid Disease1,
Alcyoniid Disease 2, Alcyoniid
Disease 3, Alcyoniid Disease 4,
Alcyoniid Disease 5, Alcyoniid Disease 6,
Alcyoniid Disease 7, Alcyoniid Disease 9,
Alcyoniid Health 10, Alcyoniid Disease
11, Alcyoniid Health 12, &
Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae,
Alcyoniids 2, Alcyoniids 3,
Alcyoniids 4,
Alcyoniid ID, Alcyoniid Selection,
Alcyoniid Compatibility, Alcyoniid
Systems,
Alcyoniid Behavior, Alcyoniid
Feeding, Alcyoniid Propagation,
Soft Coral Propagation, Soft Coral
Health, Dyed Corals, Soft
Coral Propagation, Nephtheids,
Dendronephthya, Paralcyoniids,
Nidaliids, Xeniids,
Dyed Corals, | 
|
Sinularia dura looking bad 5/3/07
Hi Crew,
<Jason>
I have a Sinularia dura that's been in my tank for over a year and a
half (came with my first LR). It has been doing well all this time,
but for the past 2 weeks (about) parts of it have been looking bad
-- no polyp extension I can see, crusty-looking surface. All my
water parameters are in line except a somewhat low alkalinity of
7.5. All of the other corals in the tank look normal.
<When,
where in doubt... Water changes, added circulation, cleaning up of
your skimmer... if necessary/practical, moving the specimen/s>
One thing to note is that I have a fair amount of green hair algae.
<Ahh... perhaps a clue... as do dis-improving water quality...
Tests?>
I've been trying to remove it slowly through siphoning
and water changes.
Here are two pictures, hopefully these will
help.
In this first one, you can see the left-most "horn" looks
good, with polyps and a translucent pink color.
The others have
no polyps and look duller.
http://picasaweb.google.com/jasonm1/AquariumLife/photo#5060129994889755474
This one is taken from a different viewpoint, where you can see the
top surface of the coral better.
http://picasaweb.google.com/jasonm1/AquariumLife/photo#5060129831680998210
Thanks!
Jason
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyondisfaqs.htm
and the linked
files above. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Shrunk mushroom, missing information on water parameters – 04/29/07
I have looked and looked, but find no answer to my question. I just
bought a leather mushroom, he looked fine in the store, I got him home,
let him get use to the tank, and now his trunk has shrunk and the
mushroom part of him is just lying on the bottom of the tank, the "stem"
looks gray, black and brown. When I first introduced him into the tank
he let out lots of white stuff. Now some of the white stuff is just
stuck to the side of him. Is he dying?
<Possible, but maybe he is
only cleaning himself and needs a day or two to recover.>
My water
is great, ph, N3 <no such molecule in aquaria if at all. You mean
ammonia, nitrates?> so on so forth. I also have 4 live rock inside my 45
gallon tank, and anemone (sp) tomato clown. I placed the mushroom on the
bottom, because I read that they don't need to be close to the lights,
which mine are high wattage for the live rock.
<I’d put him onto a
piece of rock. You can fix him with a toothpick if necessary.>
Does
my new mushroom need time to recover or do you think he’s dead?
<You
state your water is great, but what is great for one species can kill
another. Check nitrates (<20), phosphates (<0.6), pH (8.0-8.4) and SG
(1.022-1.026). Nitrites and ammonia need to be absent. If all parameters
are ok, he may recover soon. A water change probably won't hurt, too.
Read
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm and the FAQs for more
information. Cheers, Marco.> |
Re: Shrunk mushroom, missing information on water parameters II –
04/30/07
The Leather Mushroom is attached to a rock that the
man at the pet store broke down before I bought it.
<I see. From
your last mail (without picture) it seemed you were talking about a
Corallimorph aka Mushroom, which have a small stem, too. Now I see
you have a Sarcophyton sp. aka Mushroom aka Leather Coral. Another
example, why the use of scientific names should be preferred.>
So, its on a small piece of rock. <Okay.>
To me he looks
horrible, let me attach a picture of him for you and you tell me
what you think.
<Just what was suggested in the last mail: check
those water parameters. If they are okay, and the brown on the stem
continues to spread, cut away the “head” (which seems quite fine)
and fix it onto a new piece of rock with a toothpick, and remove the
brown stem. Don’t cut it until you are sure your water is fine. See
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyoniidsii.htm and the related FAQs
on health and disease.>
Thanks Rhonda. <Cheers, Marco.> | 
|
Crack in Soft Coral – 4/13/07
Hey! Great site.
<Thanks!>
I was just wondering I bought a devils hand leather and just noticed as
its starting to open there all cracks there the fingers attach to it. I
think it may have been dropped. Inside the bag of course not just the
coral hitting the ground. I notice the guy drop it and I didn't say
anything thinking he wouldn’t sell it to me if it was serious.. I know
him good <Well too!>. I didn't notice the damage till now. And I feel
bad calling him. Will this coral heal itself?
<Possibly, though probably better to just frag it.>
It's not like
anything is hanging off. It’s just split slightly in about 4 spots. Is
it toast?
<Nah, never toast. More here on fragging: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corlpropfaqs.htm
and related links in blue>
should I say something?
<You're
decision.>
thank you
<Welcome! -Mich>
<Please I not I and
the first letter of each sentence is capitalized!> Leathers
flaking away 4/13/07
I have recently purchased two
new leathers, one green and purple finger leather and a colt leather.
The colt is drooped over changing color from dark to light purple and
also appears to be separating itself from the rock it was attached to,
should I be concerned or take any action I have only had it for about a
week?
<This is a bad sign, I would attempt to remove this coral to a
separate tank, using the same tank water then altering this slowly
afterwards. Also, there are likely common scavengers – crabs etc - that
will soon start pulling this apart when they discover it>
My main
concern lies with the finger leather, the coral seems to be flaking
apart but its color has not changed much, today I was scraping algae
from the front glass and the bottom stalk actually fell right off the
base of this coral seems to be completely flaking apart is this coral
doomed and what could have caused this I have other corals that have
been thriving.
<It sounds like you have a lot of necrotic tissue
present around the coral’s base. Probably due to over-handling (contact
with hands etc), also how did you acclimate this coral? As for both to
be purchased at the same time and both have the same problem an
acclimation procedure may be partially to blame. I would “frag” this
coral immediately to have hope of saving at least a percentage of it.
“Have a VERY sharp razor blade or scalpel ready. A needle with clean
nylon thread (or fishing line) ready and waiting to stitch too. Also a
piece of small rock or rubble as well. Move 3/4-1" above the highest
necrotic area of the base of the stalk. Cut clean and fast through the
animal. You must wear gloves and keep the procedure down to a minimum
time of handling. After the cut, look at the exposed trunk and be sure
that you cleared the soft and necrotic area... if so, run a stitch or
two through the base (no more than an inch from the bottom) and tie it
off to a piece of rock. Return it to the exact same place it was in the
tank and do not touch it for weeks. Maintain strong water flow and very
aggressive skimming in the tank. Small daily doses of iodine may be
therapeutic for the tank too (not extra iodine... just your weekly dose
broken down to daily).” – Thanks to Anthony for that explanation.
Also see here -
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/softcorhealth.htm>
Water tem 78-79
kH 8
Ca is high over 520
Nitrates are low
<Figures needed>
Nitrites 0
Salinity .029 I know is high
<Would lower to nearer
NSW - .026>
3 watts per gal t5
72 gal bow
Two opposing Seio
820 powerheads
<More reading needed, this a common problem with this
common species with a common answer commonly available. Also please
spell check and punctuate all sentences. Olly> pH/Finger
Leather, Coral Health 4/12/07
Hi there Crew,
<Hello
Michelle>
First, let me thank you for the amazing website. I have
spent many an hour cruising your site. (I did look for answers before
asking) : )
I started a 55 gal saltwater tank 5 weeks ago. I have 55
lbs LR, and live sand 40 lbs. I use R/O water w/Kent Marine Salt mix. I
have a light w/high output florescent, blue actinic's and a moon light
setting.
<Knowing the wattage helps.>
My lighting cycle is 12
hrs on, 12 off. I do 5% water changes twice a week. My filter is a
Freedom Flow, rated to 90 gals, and I have two Maxi jets, a 900 & 1200.
My stats: <Parameters> Salinity: 1.024, PH: 8.0, Nitrates: 0, Nitrites:
0, GK: <GK?.. dKH?> 11 and Ammonia: 0.
Tank inhabitants: 1 Turbo
Snail, 1 Scarlet Shrimp, 3 Hermit Crabs, 4 Green Chromis, 2 Percula
Clowns (tank raised), 2 Fire Fish Gobies, 1 Starry Dragonet and 1 Copper
Banded Butterfly. Invertebrates: 1 Branching Hammer soft coral and 1
Finger Leather. Oh, and a bunch of Caulerpa. -Whew, I think that's
it....
<Way too many fish for your 55. The Copper Band
was not a good choice if you are new at this. More than likely will no
be around long.>
Sorry to be long winded, but I want you to have the
info, hopefully I "said" it right.
First question: My pH, I can't
seem to get it higher than 8.0.
<Not surprising with your fish
load.>
Now, I own Bob's book (awesome!!!) and I have been adding,
for three weeks, 2 teaspoons of baking soda. Yet this doesn't seem to
make a difference. I followed his directions and add it straight to the
filter and only at the water changes. I read the FAQ on pH and I noticed
that one guy said 1 teaspoon per gallon, but I thought Bob said 1 teasp
per 10 gals??? What should I do? I don't want to harm any of my
creatures.
<Really need to test dKH with a quality test kit, and
then add a little of the buffer daily (one tablespoon per 10 gallons
will work), then test dKH the following day. A good level to maintain
is 8-12 dKH.>
Is 8.0 ok?
<Not bad, but you can help this matter
by reducing your fish load.>
Second question: My Hammer
is flourishing! Yay! But my Finger Leather is not. The darn LFS said to
put him in low flow, so I tried that, but he didn't seem to like it.
Plus I read on FAQ that he should be in high flow, so I moved him.
Finger guy is now right up on my the top of my rocks, about 6 - 7 inches
from my light. He's in a high flow area. He shed a bunch of mucous-y
stuff, but his polyps don't really come out.
<They do go through
this process. If things are normal, it will re-bloom soon.>
Today I
woke up and one "branch" is squished down, while the other is just kind
of dark. Some polyps out, but not many. The Finger is no where near the
Hammer. I add Iodine & Phyto-Plankton once a week. What am I doing
wrong?
<The Copper Band is a notorious coral eater, surprised your
LFS sold you this knowing you have corals. He is most likely the bulk
of the problem and should be removed and taken back to the dealer or
find a good home for it.>
BTW, the local LFS said I didn't need a
heater. My tank temp runs about 80-82.
<Where do you live? What is
your ambient night time temperature?>
I am actually a bit frustrated
with the local LFS 's around here (there's three) I get conflicting info
from each of them, sometimes from employee's within the
store! LOL Ack!
<Working at a fish store does not necessarily mean
he/she is a knowledgeable person in this field.>
Oh also I had to
say, no one told me about the possibility of getting Sea Stars with your
LR! They said to watch for other stuff. But I found one, how cool is
that!!!!! I love my tank and want to do the right thing. Thank you so
much for your help and advice! You guys rock!!
<Definitely more
reading/learning for you Michelle.>
Sincerely,
<James (Salty
Dog)>
Michelle Re: pH/Finger Leather/Coral Health 4/13/07
James (Salty Dog),
Thank you so much for your reply.
<You're
welcome.>
Yes, I agree more reading is in order for me, however,
what do you recommend, as I have read Mr. Fenner's Conscientious
Aquarist, and I read each as much as I can on Wet Web.
<Plenty to
read on this site. Have you read our articles in our emag,
Conscientious Aquarist? Do browse/read through all the archives here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/Cover/cover.htm Another
good book is Michael Paletta's "Modern Reef Aquarium". This book is
geared for novice aquarists such as yourself, and has sold over 110,000
copies.>
I also agree with you on my local LFS, as yes, they sold my
family the Finger Leather and Butterfly. (The fish was a present from my
daughter who went with out me) I called the LFS to find out what they
fed her, they said Mysis Shrimp. But, no, she died this AM
<Didn't
think this fish would last long. A difficult one to keep for newbies
and experienced alike. I would hate to think of how many of these
beautiful fish have died in home aquariums because proper
care/requirements were not met.>
I am very saddened, and won't allow
my daughter to buy me fish without my being there again. I only had her
two days.
<There are too many other beautiful fish that are much
much easier to care for than the CBB.>
I meant dKH
measurement, sorry about that.
<OK>
I will try to lower my fish
load. I thought I had read that it was 1" of fish per gallon of water,
was ok.
<I like one <<cubic. RMF>> inch per five gallons
myself. The statement you read would mean I could keep a five inch
trigger fish in a
five gallon tank. Mmmmm, don't think so.>
I
live in Denver. In the evening/morning with the actinic's, my temp is
80. With my regular lights on, it is 82. ( I will get my wattage figured
out too) I will be running my air conditioner this summer in the house
to keep it stabilized.
<With no heater, what do you think the tank
temperature will be, say at 3:00 am in the winter? I'm sure you do not
keep your home temperature at 78 degrees.>
Oh, and my Finger Leather
is looking a bit better, I shall keep an eye on it.
I am sure you
must get frustrated with those of us who are newbies, but I appreciate
your help, and it is my goal to become as knowledgeable about my
aquarium as possible.
<Not frustrated at all, is why we do this, to
help others from making mistakes we have made in our early years of
fishkeeping and to educate on proper care of such.>
I love my fish
and will do everything to take the best care possible of them.
<Keep
in mind, these animals did not volunteer to leave their home, and, as
aquarists, we should strive to give them the best possible
conditions to continue their life in our tanks.>
Thank you again for
your time,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Michelle
Spaghetti Leather's New Look 4/8/07
Good Afternoon Crew,
<Steve>
Can you identify the white squiggly lines that have
recently appeared on my finger leather?
<Mmm, maybe>
They
are on the surface of the flesh at its base, and move slightly in
the currents. Leather seems slightly withdrawn lately, but may
be my 'super-aqua-paranoia'. Water parameters are normal. Thanks in
advance for your help!
Steve
<Well... this could be "snail
eggs" of some sort (I would try rubbing them off if you're curious),
or some sort of worm... possibly "too" predaceous... only time,
observation... You might be driven (if health takes a turn) to
consider excising (yes, cutting away) this area... "fragmenting"
this animal/colony... Please see WWM re Alcyoniid Disease:
http://wetwebmedia.com/alcydis7.htm
and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Pics and ? Nudibranch and polyp/anemones 3/28/07
Hi there to
all the crew. My name is Tracey. I have a 125 gallon reef tank and have
for about 13 years now. I have two things I would like to address here.
First, I have a couple of colt coral that started suddenly not doing
well. Like they were being stung,
<Consumed, predated...>
but
nothing was near enough even with current that would make that probable.
I needed to top off my water and added my upped the alkalinity just
enough to irritate the critter that was causing the problem to come into
view. I am attaching a pic of this beautiful guy which I think is maybe
a Nudibranch?
<Yes... at least a Opisthobranch/Seaslug...>
I'm
surprised to see this now as I have not added anything new in months. I
took him out and place him in quarantine until I learn more. I have seen
and removed these before quite some time ago, and they had more of a
pink color but were smaller. This guy is about 1 1/2" long and 3/4"
wide. I removed him with tweezers and he had a sticky and slimy
substance left behind what ever he came into contact with. I have found
them near the base of the colt only. I'm not seeing flesh decay of the
colt, it looks more like it being stung though I'm not certain. The base
of the colt looks like it is separating some from the rock. He looks
better already after only an hour of removing him.
<Is/was being
chewed... keep your eyes peeled for others>
Ok, my next issue is
this. I have several different polyps in my tank and have had a new
species of some sort pop up and they multiply quickly. They split in
half and they just move around and make more, even through the current.
They grow on the glass, in the sand, on the rocks like crazy, and I have
seen them grow attached to other coral. I'm wondering if this is some
type of anemone rather than polyps.
<Mmm, some pix look like
Zoanthids... others summat like Anemonia species>
I did have an
Aiptasia problem and got that problem under control, so I'm pretty sure
that's not what these are. I took out a few rocks that are just covered
in about a months time and quarantined them also. I'm sending a few pics
of these as well. Thanks in advance for your time and help. I love this
site.
Tracey
<Do take a scan on/over WWM re these species...
best to not let proliferate/cover too much of your LR. Bob Fenner> | 
|
To cut or not to cut, that is the question! 3/26/07
Hello again
guys and gals!
I wasn't sure what to think about this coral this
morning when I came in, I noticed a small area on it that appears to be
dead or dying tissue. (Close up)
<I see this>
see the light spot
on the underside of the small "nub" sticking out? What would that be?
<Mmm... a sort of ecdysis perhaps... maybe a bitten off injury... could
be a "stung" reaction area by another cnidarian>
This coral stays
completely open and extended all day, this photo was taken during the
dawn hours of the tanks light cycle so this coral was just opening.
Water Parameters:
PH - 8.4 during the day
No3 - <2
Po4 -
<.3
dKH - 12.5
Ca - 400
NH4 - 0
No2 - 0
SG - 1.025
Temp - 76 - 78 degrees F
Any input on what this is or what to do
would be wonderful, thank you so much!
Brian Crenshaw
<I
wouldn't do much of anything here... Do you utilize Iodine-ide in your
system... See WWM re>
PS sorry for the mix up with the photos!
Also, any idea what the white spots are in the third photo?
<Mmm,
maybe Ascidians... BobF> | Re: To
cut or not to cut, that is the question! 3/27/07
Hello
again Bob,
How are you today?
<Fine, but bushed...
traveling>
About the small white ovals I mentioned before, would
it be possible that those might be coco worms developing?
<Mmm,
no not likely>
Mine have spawned twice now, and it has been
about 2 - 3 weeks since the first time. Every time I do a water
change towards the end of my tanks dusk cycle with slightly cooler,
and slightly less saline water than what is in the main tank the
male coco worm gets to work sending his streamers of sperm out and
almost as soon as he is done the female starts sending out pink
streams of eggs out into the water. I do plan on experimenting and
testing this further but those conditions seem to work like a charm.
It is quite fun to watch, like a discovery channel special!
<Sounds great... Perhaps a more "close-up" photograph...>
The
leather coral I mentioned in the previous email seems to be
doing alright, it shed off some skin yesterday and seems to be a bit
more perky today. I was (am) thinking that perhaps it was stung by
my torch coral. About three weeks ago I was moving some things
around in the tank and I bumped one of the torches heads pretty
hard (I felt terrible about it) and early last week I noticed that
head starting to "wither away" it is now nearly completely gone, no
sign of any kind of infection ex: brown jelly or any other type
that I am aware of. While this head was wearing away could a piece
have broken off been caught by the current and blown into the
leather stinging it on impact and causing that kind of damage?
<Mmm, yes>
As far as the damaged area of the leather coral is
concerned should I remove it, or just keep an eye on it?
<I'd do
the latter>
Would it possibly grow back?
<Yes, certainly>
Also, with no sign of infection on the torch, should anything be
done to it, or am I doing the right thing by just watching it
for further problems?
<Read... on WWM re Euphylliid,
Scleractinian Disease/s...>
Current water parameters in the
aquarium are still the same:
PH - 8.4 during the day
No3 -
<2
Po4 - <.3
dKH - 12.5
Ca - 400
NH4 - 0
No2 -
0
SG - 1.025
Temp - 76 - 78 degrees F
There is a bit of
sponge growth in the tank now too, I found 6 Syconoid sponges
growing on a couple of pieces of live rock. From the readings I
have taken from the tank, I know the dKH is high, but does anything
else look off to you?
<No>
I read on WWM that these sponges
typically grow if the tank has poor skimming, over feeding,
basically poor water quality. I have been feeding the tank very
lightly every other day, mainly for the inverts 3 cleaner shrimp,
7 Nassarius snails, and lots and lots of amphipods. After I did the
water change I also had a brown algae bloom, it mainly appeared on
the sand bed wherever light hits it, and in small patches on a few
live rocks, it looks a bit slimy so I am guessing perhaps that some
of what I am seeing might be bacteria rather than algae?
<Possibly>
I really hope my microscope gets here today. I am
considering purchasing some Cerith snails to stir up the sand bed
more, would this in your opinion be a wise purchase?
<Are useful
species>
Thank you,
Brian Crenshaw
<BobF> |
Re: follow up on "coral surgery". Alcyoniid hlth. 4/4/07
Hello Bob,
How are you today?
<Fine my friend, thank you>
I wanted to let you know the sinularia coral with the stung and
dying patch on it is doing great now, I took it out of the display
tank and placed it in a large casserole dish mostly full of aquarium
water where I used an Exacto knife to cut away the dead and infected
tissue. I also use vinyl gloves any time I am handling corals so my
skin oils don't damage any parts of them.
<Very good>
After
the "surgery" I then placed the coral in a Lugol's dip for 17
minutes and then let it sit in some clean salt water of the same
temperature, specific gravity, ph, and so on of the aquarium for
about 2 hours where it did shed some skin. Today it is open, perky
and looking loads better! I did have a couple of other questions for
you. You mentioned in the previous email that it is not a good Idea
to place 2 sinularia sp. corals in the same aquarium,
<Correct... they compete for space in the wild... a dispersal
mechanism... helps to ensure survival of the species...>
I have
no idea if mine are clones or not, and I am not sure how to tell.
They do seem to be doing well though, and have been for a month now
(not long I know). What is the danger in keeping these together?
Should I leave them together if they seem to be fine, and do
something if the situation becomes other than favorable?
<No
likely need for overt reaction... just something to be aware of...>
Or would you recommend removing one right away? I also have a large
Cladiella sp. coral in this tank that is doing quite well, all three
corals are on different levels of the tank, the Cladiella sp. is at
the highest point in the tank almost 4 inches from the surface and
loves it! I am doing bi-weekly water changes on the tank until the
new filtration system arrives. All animals are doing well, I figured
out what the white ovals in the tank are (we talked about those in a
previous email), they turned out to be Nerite snail eggs,
<Ahh!>
now all 4 species of snail introduced intentionally into the
aquarium have reproduced. My coco worms have twice now in front of
my fiancé and I. Today I noticed my feather dusters seem to be
splitting into two, I am guessing this is a form of asexual
reproduction. I now have 5 Xenia colonies where there was once one,
and my Anthelia coral has now become 7 colonies! My crocea clams are
also showing wonderful growth! Have you ever heard of Life Reef
Filtration Systems by Jeff Turcheck?
<Yes>
If so, what is
your opinion on his products?
<Their products appear to be well
made>
I was considering getting a filtration system made by him.
Yesterday we also introduced our first fish back to the reef after
nearly 5 weeks of the aquarium running fallow. He had been in
quarantine for 4 weeks and was losing weight from not eating, he is
very healthy other than that. He is stuffing himself with amphipods
and small crustaceans in the sand and rock, and seems extremely
happy! He likes sitting in places where he can "people watch". My
last question for you is about 3 "Yasha haze" gobies I have, they
have had some black spots on them for what must be 2 weeks now, I
can't Identify what they are, I have done freshwater dips with
methylene blue, and they are in quarantine with copper in the
system, any suggestions or ideas on what this might be?
<Likely
just some sort of "stress markings"... I would not expose such small
fishes to long periods of quarantine or much chemical use>
I
will try to get some good photos to send you so you can see what I
am dealing with on them. As always thank you for your help and time
Bob!
Brian Crenshaw
<Thank you. Bob Fenner> |
Re: Sinularia htlh., repro. 4/13/07
Hello Bob and Crew!
I had another concern to run by you today. My Sinularia sp. coral is
having a possible issue again. I don't know if you remember what
happened before or not but my Sinularia coral had a small branch
that developed a white (ish) area on it. We both agreed that it was
most likely stung and infected. I had cut the infected branch off
and it is almost completely healed now and doing great. Now, however
there is another branch doing it and this time I know it wasn't
injured. Could this be some form of reproduction?
<Mmm,
possibly>
I know some corals will drop branches and those will
attach to substrate and grow. Have you seen/ heard of this type of
coral doing that?
<Yes>
The "infected" area seems to spread
around the arm to be dropped and thins out an area until it breaks
off. At least it seems so, when I was cutting the arm off of it the
first time it just broke off, then I cut the rest of the light area
off. What would you recommend I do with this coral? Thank you as
always for your time and consideration.
Take care,
Brian
<Have heard/read of this "dispersal mechanism"... a version of
"fragmentation", asexual reproduction... Does it portend something
"missing", "overly-stressful" in this colony's environment? Bob
Fenner> |   
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Dying mumps leather coral 3/23/07
Dear Crew,
<Elizabeth>
Recently, I added a piece of Fiji (cured) rock, a
firefish, a 6 line wrasse, a hairy mushroom coral, and a mumps leather
<Lobophytum...>
into my mini reef (there is only a few established
pieces of rock other than the previously mentioned). Water quality is
good, lighting, skimming, etc. After acclimation, the 6 line was great,
the hairy mushrooms are thriving ... the firefish died within 24 hrs and
the mumps coral had a small black lesion on it. I didn't know that I
should've taken care of this ... now, I do. Several days later, the
mumps coral had a thick coat of slime on it.
<Mmm, not atypical
behavior...>
I called the LFS and they told me to let it go and it
was just acclimating. But then ... tonight ... it disintegrated into
the water.
<Best to remove once loose...>
All that is left of
it ... is a couple spines and a white fleshy foot.
<Oh! The Soft
Coral itself! Yikes>
I am over my head here ... but I am assuming it
is dead, correct?
<Likely so>
Do I remove it from the tank?
<I would, yes>
The LFS said to let it be and it might regrow?
<Not likely... I'd at the very least carefully (scoop it up in a
container underwater), move this to isolation>
Hmm ... I will only
keep two fish in my 20 gallon tank -
<... too small...>
so I
need to find a good match for the wrasse and do lots of reading on
corals!
<Is too small for this wrasse as well...>
I won't trust
the LFS anymore ... :(
Thanks for anything you can tell me,
Liz
<Mmm, start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyoniids.htm
and onto the linked
files above. Bob Fenner>
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