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FAQs about Health/Diseases, Pests of Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae 12

Related Articles: Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae

Related FAQs: Alcyoniid Disease1, Alcyoniid Disease 2, Alcyoniid Disease 3, Alcyoniid Disease 4, Alcyoniid Disease 5, Alcyoniid Disease 6, Alcyoniid Disease 7, Alcyoniid Disease 8, Alcyoniid Disease 9, Alcyoniid Health 10, Alcyoniid Disease 11, & Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae, Alcyoniids 2, Alcyoniids 3, Alcyoniids 4, Alcyoniid ID, Alcyoniid Selection, Alcyoniid Compatibility, Alcyoniid Systems, Alcyoniid Behavior, Alcyoniid Feeding, Alcyoniid Propagation, Soft Coral PropagationSoft Coral HealthDyed CoralsSoft Coral Propagation, Nephtheids, Dendronephthya, Paralcyoniids, Nidaliids, Xeniids, Dyed Corals

Colt Coral collapse – 09/08/09
Hello and happy Labor Day. I hope you can help me.
<Ave. I as well>
I have a large Colt Coral in a 1 year old, 100g tank (40g sump, protein skimmer, carbon, PO4 remover, Chaeto, DSB, LR). In the tank I have mostly soft and LPS corals (leathers, mushrooms, Xenia, hammer, torch, frogspawn, galaxy, Zoanthids, polyps and a couple of clams). The fish are 2 tangs, coral beauty, Picasso trigger and a mated pair of clowns. The Colt has done terrific, increasing in size threefold since I got him back in March.
This past Thursday the Colt literally collapsed overnight. One day it's healthy and vibrant, the next it looks like death. I've attached photos from when it was healthy (4 months ago is the latest I have but it looked the same just bigger now) and what it looks like now. I thought something must be horribly wrong with my water (but everything else appeared fine). I did 3 tests over a 12 hour period: Temp 79.6, PH: 8.4, Salinity: 1.024; Nitrate: 0ppm;
<The corals need some NO3. Do you (over) use chemical filtrant/s?>
Ammonia: 0ppm, dKH: 10/179ppm. Nevertheless I did a 20g water change.
<Good>
I left the Colt in the main tank for another couple of days thinking it might be going through a mucus shedding cycle. By day 3 it was clear that something horrible was wrong with it and rather than risk contaminating my main tank, I moved it to my QT tank.
<Also good>
If you look closely at the photo you can see the ends of the arms falling apart. When I removed it to the QT I smelled the tissue expecting something really foul and necrotic. It was not - just a salty, marine kind of smell. I also checked it carefully for any type of obvious parasite or snail that may have attacked it. Again, nothing.
I keep a daily aquarium log that helps me with the "what the heck happened" questions that come up in this hobby. I note additions, changes, feeding and most important, observations.
<Excellent>
Unfortunately in this case, nothing had been introduced, no changes made of any sort to the tank in the immediate past. The last changes to the tank happened a month ago when I moved a baffle in my sump and disturbed the sand bed. I fear this released nitrogen and other toxins into the water.
<Mmm, highly unlikely involved here, unless...>
Within a week my tangs and clowns came down with what looked like powdered sugar on their bodies and were scraping against the rock and sand. I didn't think it was ich, didn't look quite right. I treated their food (not the water) with Kanamycin Sulfate (Seachem's KanaPlex) and within 2 weeks they were all cleared up. None of the corals exhibited any sign of sickness, just those couple of fish.
So my question is, what could possibly have gone wrong so quickly with this coral?
<I do think this may have been a "cascade event"... with your administering the antibiotic to the fish, some other coral poisoning the Cladiella>
It's quite simply falling apart in front of my eyes.
Thank you for your time and input. You folks do a great job - clearly a labor of love.
Alan
<I would try administering about three times the "normal dosage" of whatever iodine/ide/ate product you have on hand... every three days, three times; making water changes from another clean, established system. Please read here for general background info.:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Colt Coral collapse   9/9/09
> <I would try administering about three times the "normal dosage" of
> whatever iodine/ide/ate product you have on hand... every three days, three
> times; making water changes from another clean, established system.
Please read here for general background info.:
> http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
> and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Bob - thank you for your reply. At the risk of appearing dense, are you recommending treating the affected coral or the main tank with the iodine?
<Sorry for the lack of clarity. The Colt's system. I do suggest dosing Lugol's or such on a punctuated basis in Reef systems though. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/iodratusef.htm>
I assume you mean the Colt in the QT but I sometimes miss the obvious.
Alan
<BobF>

Green Leather Polyp... induced env. prob.s  8/26/2009
Hello all. I love your site! My question is about my Green Leather Polyp.
I have a ten gallon tank that houses 2 Percula Clown fish
<Need much more room than this>
(under 1.5 inches), and Chocolate Chip Starfish (about 3" diameter),
<Not an aquarium-hardy species>
a Scooter Blenny (2"),
<... ludicrous here>
2 Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crabs, and 2 Narcissus Snails with live rock and live sand. (Yes, I know that this is too small, thank you fish salesman, but I have a 37 gallon tank that I'm moving to when the live sand settles a bit :))
<Ahh, good>
. My Green Leather Polyp did sulk a bit for about a week after he was moved into the tank, but shed and did beautifully for a few weeks. The other day when I came down for the morning, the "head" of the polyp was broken off and there was a hermit crab on top of the "stump." (Unlikely culprit, I know.)
<Uhh, not so>
This polyp "head" is just sitting on the bottom of the tank still putting out it's little green polyps and the "rocks" are just sitting there, but the other day I noticed that they had separated and now there are three rocks where there were only two before. Should I expect any of this little guy to survive? Is this normal?
<Maybe, and yes for a stressed Alcyoniid colony/organism>
(I think not, but I am no expert.) My salinity is sitting at about 1.023 (yesterday). The nitrates were a little high, but after a 50% water change they came to normal (according to the fish salesman). Once I get my 37 up, I'm going to have to get my own test kits, I think.
Thanks so much!
Amanda
<Get the larger system up, move these animals stat. Bob Fenner>

Re: Green Leather Polyp... still not reading...    8/27/09
Thanks so much for the information! As always, good instruction usually leads to more questions. First, thanks for the scientific name for my Coral (Alcyoniidae). This lead to some great information on your site. I have high hopes for this guy now! The stump did get really mushy and fall apart (I pulled that out, yuck!), but I left the little rocks in there since I really didn't know what to do with those. I have high hopes for this little guy now!
Questions:
1. Since this is a Coral (yes, my fish salesman said it was a "plant" and not a "coral" and I believed him) and my Chocolate Chip Starfish hasn't eaten him or shown any interest, do you think it is safe to put more coral in my 37 gallon or do you think he's just not interested in eating that specific coral?
<I think you should read a bit more before proceeding period>
I know that soft corals are probably out, but what about the hard corals?
2. Would a Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crab (or any for that matter) eat Coral?
<Perhaps>
3. What about my Scooter Blenny is "ludicrous?" On advice, I bought him to help with the brown algae in my tank. I'm guessing that was a bad idea?
<... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mandsysfaq2.htm
and the linked files above>
Thank you so much! I'm trying to do better and you guys and your site is so helpful!
<... you show no evidence of using it... Please do so. BobF>

Aiptasia stinging finger leather 08/12/09
Good morning Crew, My question involves a lime green finger leather that has been stung by several aiptasia. I inadvertently imported some aiptasia on a Paly/anthelia frag, placing it just behind the finger leather on some base rock .A few days later I noticed the finger leather was not opening up and seemed to be shedding more than normal. On further examination the aiptasia could be seen touching the leather. I moved the leather to a safer spot and inspected it, finding a gouge on the back side like someone had sliced a chunk out. I have since gotten rid of the aiptasia but the leather only opens for a couple of days(2-3)then closes up and sheds for even more(3-4) before opening again. Is it possible that the stings could have somehow permanently damaged the leather or altered its normal behavior? Any input would be appreciated. Steve
<Hmm... are you sure the aiptasia are doing this and not something else?
Unless these aiptasia are huge, I doubt they're causing this much damage.
Perhaps... have you checked the coral for predatory Nudibranchs?
Best,
Sara M.>

Colt Coral Possible Allelopathy ... Incompatible organisms – 6/14/09
Hi
<Hello>
I was hoping you would be able to help me.
<Me too.>
My tank is six weeks old, I used RO/DI water and live sand.
<How big is this tank?>
I have live rock, branch rock, two clowns, powder blue tang, gramma, pink tipped anemone, green bubble anemone, mushrooms and three types of coral.
<First off this is a lot of livestock for a six week old tank. The two anemones in one tank are almost certainly a bad idea, and anemones of any kind in a six week old tank is begging for disaster. Anemones are very sensitive to changes in water quality. Please seriously consider removing at least one of these anemones.>
My water is all tested good, calcium just a tad high, 29.
<I need more detailed test information from you including: pH, alkalinity, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates.
Without more info it is incredibly hard to attempt to determine the problem.>
My colt coral just started to wilt and shed, mucous looking. I've had it for a week and it was doing great?
<This coral sounds like it is not happy with its location, could be because of lighting, flow, proximity to other corals, or likely chemical warfare within your tank. Please search WWM for "allelopathy" and "colt coral" and do some research for one of the possible culprits.>
One of my hermit crabs got under it and it sort of detached from the rock.?
<Likely not the hermit crab's fault.>
Not sure if it is dying or digesting like the anemones do? I would like to save it. It is about five inches tall.
Any suggestions?
<Suggestions and concerns posted above.>
Thank you for your help, can't seem to find anything about this,
Laura
<Laura please search and read about the above terms, and reply to me with specific parameters.
Josh Solomon>

white leather coral disintegrating 5/14/09
I have a problem with one of my leather corals. The tissue at the base of the coral is dying and disintegrating.
<Not good>
I have read around your site and have found that the recommended advise is to cut out the dead pieces and reattach to rock rubble.
<Is one... extreme approach. MUCH more important to discover the source of trouble period... Chemical, predatory... and solve it>
I wanted to get a second opinion on this topic (I didn't see any black coloration around the coral but the rest of the conditions seem to be the same). I have attached a picture so that you can see the damage.
<Mmm, no pic attached. Please send again... along with information re the history of your set-up, stocking and order of introduction, water quality test results, maintenance MO. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for the help,
Eric

Re: white leather coral disintegrating      5/15/09
Mmm, no pic attached <sorry it is now attached, and I also attached a pic of the tank>
history: The tank has been setup for about 5 months and is 90 gallon tank with a 20 gallon sump. this is an upgrade from my previous 30 gallon tank with a 15 gallon sump that was setup for 1.5 years most of the corals that are in this tank were in the 20 gallon with the exception of a recently purchased trumpet coral (added about 2 weeks ago) it is on the other side of the tank.
<Mmmm>
I have 2-250 watt metal halides that are on for 6 hours a day. I also have power compacts that are on for about
12 hours a day. The sump has a deep sand bed and macro algae in it with a light that runs for 24/7.
I don't remember much of the order of stocking this tank, but I think it was something like:
5 mushrooms that are now several
Zoos that are now more of a pest
<Yes>
Green slimmer acropora (now too big)
A colt coral
3 leather frags
challis frag
tri colored Montipora
(a green bubble tip)
Pocillopora
then recently I have been getting some sps frags for the tank that are still very small and then finally a trumpet coral.
There are several SPS corals a few LPS corals, 3 leathers (Yellow, White, Brown), 3 colt corals, some mushrooms and zoo's
There is one Eibli Angel,
<May be the nibbler here>
Foxface, anthias, 2 cleaner shrimp, mandarin
dragonet, two gobies, and two damsels.
water quality tested with Sera
Nitrates: 0 (mg/l)
Nitrites: 0 (mg/l)
Ammonia: 0 (mg/l)
Phosphate (inorganic): 0 (mg/l)
Calcium: 380 (mg/l)
KH: 7 (dH)
pH: 8.0
Mg: 1440 (mg/l)
temp: 79 F
maintenance:
1. 5% water change twice a week.
2. top-off with Kalk
3. temp controlled with chiller and two heaters that are all controlled with a central temperature controller.
Thanks,
Eric
<Well, the photo looks like someone's been biting at the base... but the Zoanthids may well have a role here as well. At any length, if you have another system, I'd be moving this Alcyoniid. BobF>

Re: white leather coral disintegrating
Thanks for the recommendation, and thank you for the help.
Eric
<Welcome. B>

Re: white leather coral disintegrating  5/16/09
After a little more observation I noticed a snail in the area of the dead tissue of the coral. Is it possible that it is a turbo snail that is causing the damage.
<Yes>
I tried to get a picture of the snail in the act but he moved before I took the picture.
Still looking for a root cause.
thanks again,
eric
<Keep reading, observing... BobF>
 

Re: white leather coral disintegrating  6/9/09
A few weeks have gone by and the leather is doing great. That particular turbo snail has been placed in the sump and after removing some of the damaged tissue the coral is healthy again. Thank you for your service.
-Eric
<And you for this update. BobF>

White Spots on Leather, hlth.  4/29/09
Thank you for having such and informative and useful site. I've used it quite often and found the info and advice very helpful.
Currently I have a 55 gallon reef and fish tank. My toadstool leather has been open and seemingly happy. However, in the last three days it has not extended it's polyps and is developing white spots as seen in the attached pictures.
<I see this, these... looks like some sort of necrosis... I note the Xeniid colonies and Corallimorphs nearby>
I've checked the water and all levels are good. I have a devil's hand leather coral in the same tank and it's doing very well. All fish and other coral seem to be thriving. Please advise.
I appreciate all of your help and advice.
<... Might be fish chewing... May be chemical allelopathy... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Finger Leather 04/11/09
Sara M.,
The finger leather mentioned below did continue to show signs of spreading.
We fragged off the bad parts. During the night hours, we discovered what was causing the damage. Attached is a picture.
<Uh oh, looks like trouble!>
Can you confirm that it is a Tritoniopsis?
<I'm no Nudibranch expert, but based on the look of the thing (and where you found it), I would certainly feel safe assuming that that's what this is. Especially after reading the info here:
http://www.seaslugforum.net/factsheet.cfm?base=Triteleg>
We believe that the circle design in the first picture sent was possibly the eggs from this Nudibranch. There are similar pictures on the Sea Slug forum. Would you agree with our assumption?
<Yes... now the real question, how will you get rid of them? I would
suggest quarantining the coral for starters.>Thanks again.
Cindy
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Nice pic! RMF
Finger Leather 04/11/09
Forgot to ask, should we worry about any of these other corals we have in our tank? We have read that it typically eats soft corals.
Sun Coral
Acropora
Mushrooms
Tridacna Crocea
Blue Spruce Caulastrea
<Most coral eating Nudibranchs are very picky eaters. Most will only eat a few species or genera of coral (some are even specific to just one species!). As far as I know the Tritoniopsis elegans Nudibranch only feeds on Lobophyton sp. So your other corals should be safe from them.>
Thanks.
<Thanks for sharing the pics.
Cheers,
Sara M.>

Finger Leather, hlth.  04/03/09
I noticed a few days ago that one of the fingers was turning white and seemed to be falling apart. I moved the leather around to see the backside. Attached is a picture.
<Yes, now I can see it.>
Is this coral dying?
<Well, that part of it is. But with leathers (and most soft corals), parts of them can die off without it necessarily meaning that the whole coral is dying. Is this dying part spreading, or is it staying isolated?
Is there anything we can do to help it?
<Right now I would just wait. If it starts to spread, you should probably frag off the troubled part.
Best,
Sara M.>

Soft Coral 'disappearance', Alcyoniid resp. to GSP allelopathy likely   4/1/09
Good Afternoon,
<AM, and a bit tardy... sorry>
Thanks for being such a useful resource. It is great to have a trusted information source to research matters aquatic. My question, I have a 92 gallon oceanic corner tank. Large amount of live rock with
2 tangs (Sailfin and Tomini),
1 yellow headed jaw fish,
1 four spot wrasse,
1 scarlet Hawkfish
1 Pincushion urchin
1 Blood Shrimp
1 Coral Banded Shrimp
4 Camel shrimp (Glass anemone control? – failed dismally)
1 Arrow crab (Bristleworm control?)
2 Starfish (Orange sea star and a Marbled sea star)
<An Ophidiaster and Fromia sp?>
Plus numerous hermits, snails a brittle star etc.
I have a lot of mushrooms, a colt coral, a leather ‘toadstool’ and some green star polyps. So far so good.
10 days ago I noticed a ‘branch’ from a colt coral had been detached and was pushed into in a crevice in a rock – I thought it had just ended up there by chance. I removed it, attached it to another rock and then a few days later the same thing happened. Another ‘branch’ ended up in the same crevice.
Again I ‘fragged’ it but I was more suspicious. While I was figuring out what to do, this morning I saw the whole coral was ‘pruned’ and had ended up in the same crevice. Does this sound like an arrow crab?
<Mmm, a remote possibility>
Have you heard of this happening before?
<This sort of "shedding?". Yes>
Some creature playing hide the coral? Any advice is  welcomed. I don’t want to start to lose corals and I am thinking of getting the arrow crab out of there but is he the guilty party?
Ian.
<Depending on what the Seastars actually are, they might also be implicated... but w/o actually witnessing some sort of chewing, I'm given to the idea/theory here that the one Alcyoniid is engaging in a "last-ditch" behavior to save itself from allelopathy... from the GSPs... Please read on WWM re these groups, their toxicity toward each other, behavior. Bob Fenner>

Re: Soft Coral 'disappearance'  4/1/09
Wow! allelopathy..I am still reading the definition but had to take a break to absorb it :-). Looking at the articles you recommend it would seem that the leather may be causing the shedding?
<Mmm,, much more likely the Clavulariids, next... the Corallimorphs>
This would make sense as they are in closer proximity than the others.
<Mmm, don't have to be all that close... much more likely a chemical competition than physical here>
Not in touch or sway range but close enough I suppose.
I hate to learn by these mistakes but unfortunately cannot read every reference article - I'd never make it to the actual fish part.
<Mmm, start here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files in the series>
I do appreciate the response. I shall look at the layout to see if changes are in order. Would you recommend a 'safe' distance between the leather and anything else?
<Mmm, yes... along with the careful use of some chemical filtrants, but esp. a useful pattern/M.O. of introduction per the above citation>
I am going to leave the tank to settle for a few weeks after this (it is over a year old and very stable) but I am building up the corals. Would you have any specific warnings on adding Clove Coral?
<I do... see WWM re>
By the way, I have read a lot of the articles on the arrow crab and it would seem to be a poor choice on my part. A point however, which the Coral banded shrimp may have made have rendered moot.
<Both are border line predaceous in many settings. BobF>

Question on leather corals 3/25/2009
I've had a beautiful leather coral for about a year and a half and I recently noticed a rather large gaping hole towards the middle of the leather.  Does anyone know what this could be from?
<Mmm, yes... predation if suddenly occurred, summat re the environment if over a period of days, weeks>
I've heard that this could be a Rapa Rapa snail. Lately, the leather has not been doing well. How do I know if it's a Rapa Rapa snail?
<You may have to look at night... with a flashlight... or even... "dig" into the Leather to find... They have tremendous powers of regeneration, but the slime can be real trouble... so such exploratory surgery should be done outside the main tank... and successive water rinses/change-outs done to get rid of most of the slime before returning this animal to its tank... If all else "fails", this Alcyoniid may best be "fragged"... Are you familiar with this? Largely gone over in our archives>
and if so, how do I get rid of them?
<Remove physically... pull off with tweezers, toss>
What do I do with the leather and the hole? should I cut 1/2 of it off?
<Possibly>
thanks.
Bob
<Another Bob... Fenner>

White Pox? Sarcophyton concern, hlth.    3/19/09
I do not know what is going on with my leather. It has been closed for over a week now and there are white patches all over it.
<I see this in your good photo>
History: I have had this leather for 4 years and it has grown quite large. He resides in a 175 gallon tank and all parameters are within range, although my pH is lower than I would like (8.0 before lights on). My other corals (Ricordeas, xenia, Acropora, mushrooms, frogspawn) all seem fine. I recently added a blue headed wrasse, that never made it. The fish picked on him horribly (Blue tang, tomato clown, and especially the clarkii clown), the other fish (yellow tang, watchman goby, and flame hawk) left him alone. At first I thought that the wrasse was wounded, as his one side was not looking good, therefore I attempted to fish him out to go into my other tank (I do not have a hospital tank....don't shoot me). Anyway, trying to get him was not
easy and he kept hiding by the leather (which is approx. 12 inches in diameter) and I kept bumping the leather. The leather did not appreciate this and has not opened since. However, I did notice a couple of white spots prior to the wrasse incident, but since the bumping, he is literally covered in the spots. I checked the base and it looks to be fine (although one small hole is detected). Also, I had a snail cleaning the base, which I never seen before (maybe just coincidence, the leather is very large and I normally do not get to see the base). If this is white pox, how do I treat him. And, is it possible to frag him while he is in this condition, or will the frags develop the disease as well.
<Is possible to frag... but I would not do this at this point>
I do 32 gallon water changes every two weeks, and top off with RO water buffered with Aragamilk.
<Mmm, is possible that this material is involved here... bits of undissolved... burning the crown/capitulum. All such supplements need to be thoroughly dissolved in change out water (like a day or more ahead) before use>
I do not use any other supplements and feed coral food once every two weeks
<I would use this more frequently... and a iodine/ide supplement in concert with your water changes... i.e., on a punctuated basis>
and the fish every day. My lighting consists of 4 96 watt dual actinics, and 3 150 watt metal halides. These bulbs are going to be replaced as soon as the bulbs arrive in the mail.
<Could also be a factor>
I replaced them all once a year (I know that I am suppose to replace every six months,
<Mmm, actually... best by far to measure with a PAR meter or such...>
but they are very expensive!) My protein skimmer is not great (homemade one from LFS that I had to rigged with a pump to inject air for it produce anything)
and a secondary hang on the tank AquaC Remora with a Maxi-Jet 1200 attached...came from old 25 gallon tank). My UV sterilizer (25 watt Rainbow Lifeguard) has been off for about 2 months as I thought the bulb burnt out but when replaced still did not work.
<Likely the ballast... very common with this make/brand>
I have a ballast on its way to my house as I write.
<Oh!>
My pump is a Quiet One 6000 and I have a 25 gallon sump.
<Small for this sized tank... I do hope it has a RDP lighting set-up, macroalgae culture....>
Circulation is achieved with a Tunze Stream 61?? And a Hydor Koralia 4. My tank temp is rather high as I do not have a chiller, running currently around 83 degrees.
<I'd change the lighting regimen, add some fans across the water surface, leave the cover off... to get/keep this under 80 F.>
Thank you,
Caroline
<And that's about what I'd consider doing given the circumstances, events you list. Bob Fenner>

Toadstool Mushroom Help, hlth.    3/17/09
Hi All,
I have a large toadstool mushroom that has some tissue damage on it. I was away for the weekend, and one of my colt leather corals decided to reproduce by dropping some of its branches. Consistent with my luck, one of the colt branches became lodged in a powerhead intake, and proceeded to spray bits and pieces of itself onto the toadstool mushroom that usually enjoys the current from the powerhead. There are two white, spot, about 1in in diameter on the toadstool now, the tissue is dying and beginning to fall off. I'm guessing this is probably due from chemicals from the colt?
<Possibly>
The spots are almost exactly where the flow from the powerhead hits the toadstool, and now its has been retracted for a few days. I have removed the remaining bits of the colt from the intake, and cleaned it thoroughly, but is there anyway I can help the toadstool?
<Mmm, I'd dose (double) whatever Iodine-containing supplement you have/use (Lugol's?)... and an hour or more later double up on activated carbon in your filter flow path... That, and stay observant>
Thank you so much,
Dan
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Problem with my Reef tank....Please help..
Light Acclimation 3/13/09

Hi guys,
<Hello Phil>
I have a Trigon 350 <liters> and haven't had many problems, all parameters where fine although my pH level was a little low (7.9 - 8.0) However I never tried to rectify this as all my Corals where doing fine..
However about 1 month ago my lighting system (The Trigon fluorescents system) broke and I therefore bought a Metal Halide system. ( 2x 150 w Metal Halides and 4 x Blue actin tubes).
As soon as I put this light into action my pH shot up to 8.5 and my leather Mushroom corals seem to be withering and shrinking.
<With that drastic a change in light intensity, light acclimation is necessary here.>
Also there seems to be a mass of green algae appearing on the glass.. (
This stuff is a nightmare getting rid of it as it won't budge.)
There are no Nitrites, Ammonia, present my Nitrate seems high.. 80ppm.
<Bingo, intense light, a food source and rapid photosynthesis/growth takes place. The food, in the form of nitrates needs to be removed. Read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm>
My main question is this Lighting to high for my tank
<No>
and do I need to move my corals around to keep them out of the full lighting as they are near the top of my reef, still about 6-7inches below water..
<Do read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm>
Thank you very much for your help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Phil.

White Spots On Finger Leather Coral 2/17/09
And Not Enough Information

Hello,
<Hello Mari>
I have a finger coral that I placed in the tank over seven months ago.
This coral has been doing well. It has just recently developed a lot of little white spots all over it. I have included a jpeg of the coral maybe you could shed some light on the problem.
<Appears to me like this coral is bleaching. Bleaching is the term used when corals are expelling their zooxanthellae, and can be caused by one or more of the following. A sudden rise or drop in water temperature, low water flow, a change in lighting, improper lighting, excess nutrients/poor water quality, low pH/dKH, and exposure to air are just a
few reasons for this. You did not supply enough information for me to even guess what has caused this. What are your water parameters, flow rate, tank size, type of lighting used, age of lamp(s), photoperiod, supplements being added, etc.>
Thank you in advance for your assistance!
<You're welcome Mari. James (Salty Dog)>
Mari Read

 Flash and dying. RMF.

Re: White Spots On Finger Leather Coral 2/18/09
And Not Enough Information

You are right!!! I did not give you enough info... My husband is the tank guy and I am the computer gal. Once I sent the email to you he told me that I did not give you guys enough info.
<No problem, we just can't do much the first time around.>
Tank size is 140 gal
Lights are T-5 (3 day lights and 3 blue
<This is not enough light for Sinularia corals and is likely why your coral is bleaching.>
Temp is at 79 + or - 1
Flow is mag 1800 pump
Filter is refugium and Euro Reef protein skimmer
Last water test ammonia 0, nitrates 10 ppm, nitrites 0, SG 1.023, ph 8.2
Talked to LFS and they suggested testing Magnesium, Iodine and Strontium
Water changes 20 gal once a month
Alk and Cal slightly high since tank set up.
<What is slightly high?>
This is a relatively new tank about 8 months from set up in fact this was one of the first corals in tank.
Fish pop. Low 10 small fish (damsels and tang largest)
Had some mushroom corals dissolve.
LFS said this coral may be low on Iodine and to dip in Iodide bath for 20 min. we have not done this yet... waiting to hear from you if this is a good idea.
<This coral appears to be too far gone for this to do much good, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try. I don't know what dosage your LFS recommends, but I've read where Anthony Calfo recommends 10 drops of Lugol's per quart of aquarium water for 15 minutes.>
Thank you so much
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: White Spot On Finger Leather Coral 2/19/09
James( Salty Dog) thanks so much!!!
<You're welcome.>
We will try the dip... you can't blame a girl for trying, who knows it may just work. How much light do you suggest??? We do not want Halogen lights,
<meaning metal halide?>
could you suggest a different set up on T-5's bulbs.
<Yes, but first I need to know the length, width, and depth of your tank, and the wattage of your present lamps.>
Thanks again
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Mari

Re: White Spot On Finger Coral 2/20/09
Here is the info on the tank
Length 48 inch Width 24 inch Depth 29 inch
3 day lights and 3 actinic
Current lights are 48 inch T-5's 6x54 watts= 324 watts
<Mmm, a pretty deep tank here. Increasing the lumen output of the lamps will help you here providing light loving corals are kept in the upper one third of the aquarium. I suggest to replace the three daylights and two actinics with 10K lamps which will give you much more intensity. I'm also thinking your daylights may be of the 50/50 type, that is 50% daylight/50% actinic, and if so, that configuration or your present, is not going to produce the amount of light the Finger Leather Corals require.
Do read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks so much for your help!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Soft Coral tank 01/12/09
Hello, I was wondering why some of the my soft Corals shed so much. I have inquired here before regarding my Toadstool and although it is o.k. it seems to want to shed a lot along with another Toadstool I have and my Cabbage Coral. Here is what I have in Corals;2 Toadstools (one Brown, one blond) Green star polyps (growing like crazy), I colony of Brown button polyps (open, but not in full "bloom") 1 Colt coral (always looks good, full and tall), 1 Cabbage coral (on one rock but two colonies, assorted mushrooms (doing well, spreading). I have 4 HO T5 lights, 2 actinic and 2 10,000k plus 2 PowerBrite strips (nice shimmer). Mag = 1280-1320, Calc = 400-420, Alk = 9-10 dKH, Temp = 80 degrees and SG = .025
<Salinity would be better at closer to 1.026.>
I guess the two main concerns I have is about the Toadstools and Cabbage, especially the Cabbage. The Cabbage has a pattern of half of it shuts down to shed and the other half looks beautiful then the beautiful bunch closes down and the other bunch finishes shedding and looks great. This goes on CONSTANTLY. It is well over 1 year old and is spreading (but not like I have heard it would) and there is new growth. The Toadstools are shedding every 1-2 weeks.
<wow>
I inquired earlier about toxins and have added Chemipure elite but that didn't seem to change anything. I have a skimmer in the sump and all parameters are good. What would be your assessment of the constant shedding and any remedy is appreciated.
<Interesting... well, leathers tend to shed to rid themselves of external irritants. Do you have any algae or other corals stepping up onto their space?
Best,
Sara M.>

Re: Soft Coral Tank 01/13/09
No offense Sara but I did not purposely mention that nothing is bothering them as I thought anyone responding would not give such a simplistic answer. Of course, there all type of people and some may overlook a simple thing like crabs walking over them, however that does not explain the constant shedding. I took painstaking effort to describe my issues if someone else could give me a more useful explanation of what may be going on in the tank it would be appreciated.
<Good Sir/Madam-- I'm sorry if my answer to your question did not give you enough information. Shedding once every 1 to 2 weeks is just not all that unusual for Toadstool leathers (i.e for Sarcophytons). These leathers just seem to shed more for some reason. Thus, I just don't think you need to worry about the Toadstools. As for the Cabbage coral, it sounds to me like you have two individuals that have grown together and are now "stuck" together, something like "Siamese twins." This might likely explain why they are shedding all the time. One of the corals might be constantly trying to outgrow or shed off the other one. They're stuck together and irritating each other and both trying to shrug/shed off the other, which ends up actually slowing them both down since they're "wasting" so much energy shedding. This explanation is what makes the most sense to me.
However, I didn't want to say this was the case until you confirmed for me that there weren't any other obvious irritants. The irritants aren't always things we can see (they can be chemical too). I hope I've given you enough information now.
If someone else would like to add to my input here, they are welcome to.
Best,
Sara M.>

Re: Soft Coral tank, Alcyoniid shedding... beh., hlth.  1/14/09
Yes, yes....this was my thinking about the Cabbage as well. I at first dismissed it because they were so close together when it was smaller I thought it was one colony but as it grew larger I can see the distinction.
Thank you for the reply, have a great day!
<Cool... a great day to you as well! -Sara M.>

Devils hand dying? 11/13/08
Hi, Can anyone please advise me?
<I'll certainly try>
I purchased a Devils Hand Leather Coral about a week ago - very large about 14inches across, in the LFS tank it was beautiful, all its polyps were out and it looked like a flower bed.
I got it home and settled it into my tank. It was naturally all closed up and looked green, It is still green although
the shade of green has lightened considerably over the last few days. I have 2x250 MA lights, 2 Actinic 54W and
two Blue Actinic 54W.
<Mmm, how does this and other conditions compare to where it was housed previously?>
I wasn't too concerned about it staying closed as I thought it was just settling in. Last night I noticed that it is splitting along a fold. I can see clean white flesh, also by one of its fingers I can see a hole. I have checked my water param.s and all seem okay, Phosphate 0,
<Mmm, why? As in, by what means? All life needs some HPO4>
Calcium 450, Strontium 1500,
<Mmm... likely you mean/t Magnesium>
Nitrate 0.01, nitrite 0, Ammonia 0. The tank is 450ltrs and I am skimming 24/7. I feed phyto every couple of days
and I add iodine weekly. Neither the tear or the hole appear to be necrotic, both showing clean white flesh. The
tear has occurred where the leather has 'folded' himself. What could be causing this and what can I do to save
the coral?
<Mmm... if this animal is opening, appears fine otherwise, I would not be overly concerned... Alcyoniids do split asexually under very good and dire conditions. Perhaps the move elicited this behavior. Bob Fenner>
Any help much appreciated
Regards Pauline

Re: Devils hand dying?  11/17/08
Hi Bob
<Pauline>
Many thanks for your reply. Just to update you, on closer inspection I noticed that the Devils Hand had grown onto two rocks and that the 'split' had occurred where the rocks met each other. He has now fully split so I now have two!!
<Can, does happen>
The exposed flesh still appears clean and white and there are no apparent signs of necrosis. He hasn't opened up yet but apart from that still appears okay. He is in good flow and currently 'shedding', I'm keeping a close eye on him and have set up a QT tank 'just in case', I was about to remove him from the tank as I was concerned that if he died he would cause the tank to crash but on receipt of your reply I decided to leave him as is and just continue to watch for signs of necrosis.
<Good. This is what I would do>
Again, many thanks for your quick response, I wasn't too sure if you would respond to appeals for help from the uk.
<Heeee! Some of WWM Crew are natives... no hard feelings being an ex colonial... Ha!>
Your site is a brilliant source of information and just by looking through other QA's I have gained so much reassurance and knowledge.
Much regards Pauline
<Cheers! BobF>

Alcyoniid hlth. reading   10/22/08
Hi,
I have a new system of 175l with external canister filter, internal filter 2 Power heads so good water turnover, temp is stable 78-80 ph of 8.0 nitrates is Creeping to 20,
<Mmm, do read on WWM re NO3 and canister filter use on/with marine systems>
calcium of 440, phosphate 1.0
<High>
salinity of 1.023,
<Low>
carbonate Hardness 214.8 troubles is I have a devils finger coral that overnight has Detached itself from its rock and crumbled mostly in to a chalky powder,
<Bad>
I am Worried this is predation or disease
<Environmental>
please could u
<...>
give me any information, I Have 2okg of live rock so it's a reef based aquarium.
Thanks
Donna
P.S
My apologies for the bad grammar, I was rushing when typing and forgot to run a check.
Great site also by the way.
Many thanks
Donna
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/softcrlsysfaqs.htm
the linked files above, and where you find yourself embedded links of interest. Bob Fenner>

Alcyoniid hlth., reading   8/24/08
I have a green finger coral in my 55 gal tank, I also had a brittle starfish, I took the starfish out of the tank, and the coral started to look wilted, does the starfish give off any toxins when frighten?
<Mmm, not as far as I'm aware, no>
I changed about six gallons of water, and still the coral doesn't look any better...can you please help? give me any info on what I should do?
<Well... need to know a bit more here... re other tankmates, the system gear make-up, foods/feeding... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/alcydisf10.htm
and the linked files above... till you have an idea of the sorts of data we're looking for... Bob Fenner>

Leather coral health, no useful info.   7/15/08
Hi guys, I am new to the hobby and have a good size leather coral in my 140 gal tank. My leather is approx 6-8 inches wide when fully open. He has always been rather healthy, but in the past two days he seems to be not opening as wide as normal and seems to changed colors a bit. He is normally a purple color with a strawberry like texture to him,
<? Really? I see a Lobophytum in your photo... Have never encountered a member of this genus colored such>
but now he seems to have a marble look to him with a darker color and white stripes. Any help would be good.
Thank you!
<... no other data? Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/alcydisf12.htm
and the linked files above.... Need to know re set-up, foods/feeding, maintenance/water quality tests, other livestock, recent activity... Bob Fenner>

Re: Lobed Leather Coral Problem  7/18/08
Greetings,
<Salutations>
Still having a problem with a leather coral.?
<You are??>
It appears to be in the process of shedding, but there are several spots of a yellow dried wax like substance.? The yellow substance comes off easily when rubbed with a dull plastic tip.?
<Good... likely natural material... exudate... thought to be useful in preventing fouling organism establishment and more>
No tissue necrosis underneath, but the tissue color appears different than surrounding tissue.? Coral has been closed up for about a week now.? It is not showing any tissue degeneration, but does slough off some mucous on different? spots every night.? Lastly, I have notice some very small flat worm looking organisms on the coral after lights out.?
<Might be... flatworms>
I siphoned them off, but can't tell if any damage was done.? Some small shrimp looking animals have also been seen after lights out crawling around on the coral.? What should I do from here??
<Mmm, keep on, keeping on...>
How long should it take for the coral to shed??
<Usually hours to days...>
Is a week unlikely?? Two weeks?
Thanks,
Greg
<Boosting health, circulation, water quality... should help all the way around... Read again where you were referred to. Bob Fenner>

Lobed Leather Coral Problem   7/12/08
Hello,
<Greg>
I recently purchased a rose colored
<? Have never seen such in the wild...>
leather coral for a reef aquarium. Other inhabitants at the time were an open brain coral, some platypoa (sp?)
<Maybe Palythoa>
polyps, pipe organ, and a mushroom rock. Everything was going great for weeks. All corals were healthy and opening fully, including the leather.? I then added one other mushroom rock and a single large hairy mushroom.
<Oh oh...>
The leather still had plenty of room to open and not be touched by any other coral. I left for vacation a few days later and returned today. I have now noticed some yellow spots on the rose leather coral, with one spot turning into a yellow ring with darker tissue inside the ring. There is also a blotch of pale yellow on one area of the coral. I am assuming this is some type of necrosis.
Am I dealing with some type of chemical warfare or may it be a water quality problem.
<Likely the first, perhaps some of the second>
All other corals are acting fine. Tank parameters are:
pH: 8.4
Salinity: 1.024
Temp: 80 F
Ammonia:?0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate:?0
I did notice that there was a power failure while I was gone, but I don't know for how long. Also, the pH seems to have been unusually stable while I was gone.? Usually it drifts down to 8.1 - 8.2 over several days and I buffer it back up to 8.3 - 8.4.?
<Mmm, through water changes, gradually I hope, trust>
However, after leaving for a week, the pH stayed right at 8.4.? This hasn't happen before.? I did change some activated carbon and cleaned out the skimmer cup before leaving on vacation.? Should I leave it alone and see what happens or take some action.
Thanks,
Greg
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Soft Coral Rotting – 05/13/08
Hi there.
<<Hello>>
Was hoping you guys can help and quick!
<<Let’s see>>
I got what I believe is a medusa soft coral about 6-8 weeks ago and was doing fantastic, but now is looking really worse for wear.
<<Hmmm, hard for me to tell without the polyps extended…but it looks more like a Sinularia species rather than a Sphaerella species, to me. Not that it likely has any bearing on your problem>>
I have tried to include some pictures to help but not sure how clear they will be.
<<Clear enough I think>>
He has slowly refused to open more and more and for only very short periods when he does. My other soft coral has also gone through a bit of a rough patch and I thought it may have been down to a water change. I added my pH buffer to the new water and it went cloudy, this took a long time to disperse and seems to when they both closed down, could this have been the problem?
<<Ah yes, sounds like you had a precipitation event from over-dosing the buffer…is very hard on your tank inhabitants. Do have a read here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm) and also perform a Google search on our site re “precipitation event”>>
My other one has now recovered to almost full health. What do I need to do??
<<Not much to do at this point other than maintain your water quality and ensure your bio-minerals are in “balance” (reference the article)>>
Any thoughts or suggestions will be of great help.
<<The precipitation event was likely the “last straw” so to speak for this coral. It was probably already in a weakened state from its close proximity to that Anemone I see in your tank. Judging from the pictures, the tank seems “just big enough” for the Anemone alone…and certainly too small to be housing it with sessile inverts too…in my opinion>>
Most appreciated
Wayne Tunnah
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Re: Soft Coral Rotting – 05/14/08
Thanks a lot for your help.
<<Welcome, mate>>
This has been of great use.
<<Ah…good>>
Perhaps I'll try moving him further away from the Anemone?
<<Won’t make much difference I think…not in this size tank>>
Or should I just sit on my hands for now?
<<Best to move the coral to another tank altogether>>
I've also made the water a bit more brisk around him to also try and help any recovery he might make.
<<The increased water movement, though not likely to “cure” anything in this instance…is still of benefit to the tank as a whole>>
The Anemone was only half the size in the dealers display and looked almost fully open at the stage of purchase. He just inflated massive when I gave him his new home! Guess he's happier now then?
<<Mmm, maybe…or maybe trying to gain more light from an insufficient source by making itself larger/increasing its surface area…is only a guess>>
Thanks again and I'll let you know whether he pulls through or not.....
Wayne
<<Please do… EricR>>
Nitrite spike... Allelopathy twixt Cnid.s   4/25/08
Hi,
<Ho!>
I have a 54 Gallon corner reef aquarium with sump filtration, aqua c remora skimmer, 2 Koralia # 2's, 50 lbs LR, 25 Lbs LS, 130 Watts of PC lighting. Livestock includes 2 false Percs, 1 royal Gramma, 1 Firefish, and 1 banner cardinal. Small clean up crew 4 Nassarius snails, 4 blue leg hermits, 4 red leg hermits, and 3 emerald crabs. I have 2 discoma colonies that came on LR, and recently purchased a small hairy mushroom colony and a toadstool leather.
<... get... very large>
The levels were Ammonia-0, Nitrite-0, Nitrate-2ppm, phosphate-.03, Sp. G. 1.0253, Ph. 8.06, Calcium 420, dKH 3.15 mg/l. For about 10 days the toadstool was looking fine as was everything else. Yesterday, it began to slump over and retract its polyps (picture included).
<Yes... I see it being burned by the Corallimorph in the foreground...>
I couldn't determine if this is normal leather behavior or if something was wrong.
<Mmm, in too small a world, too close to a better-established Cnidarian...>
However, today the leather looked worse. I performed a water change and performed water testing. To my surprise my Nitrites were up to .25.
<Yes... reaction from the life t/here>
I haven't ever had nitrites in the tank. Could the leather's problems be contributing to nitrite spike?
<Yes>
Or is it doing poorly because of nitrites. I haven't really changed anything else in the system and can't figure out what would cause increased nitrites. Any thoughts/links, etc. would be helpful.
Thanks,
Mike
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
for background, then onto the Compatibility FAQs files for both groups of Cnidarians... Your options will be obvious. Bob Fenner>

Re: nitrite spike... Allelopathy twixt Cnid.s  4/26/08
Thanks, Bob. Relocated toadstool to a QT that was up and running. The plan is to get this guy in shape and return to LFS. It seems like it was a bad choice for my system. That's what happens when you listen to LFS and don't do your research. Lesson learned...
Mike
<Ahh! BobF>






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