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FAQs about Health/Diseases, Pests of Soft
Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae 10
Related Articles:
Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae
Related FAQs:
Alcyoniid Disease1,
Alcyoniid Disease 2, Alcyoniid
Disease 3, Alcyoniid Disease 4,
Alcyoniid Disease 5, Alcyoniid Disease 6,
Alcyoniid Disease 7, Alcyoniid Disease 8,
Alcyoniid Disease 9, Alcyoniid Disease
11, Alcyoniid Health 12, &
Soft Corals of the Family Alcyoniidae,
Alcyoniids 2, Alcyoniids 3,
Alcyoniids 4,
Alcyoniid ID, Alcyoniid Selection,
Alcyoniid Compatibility, Alcyoniid
Systems,
Alcyoniid Behavior, Alcyoniid
Feeding, Alcyoniid Propagation,
Soft Coral Propagation, Soft Coral
Health, Dyed Corals, Soft
Coral Propagation, Nephtheids,
Dendronephthya, Paralcyoniids,
Nidaliids, Xeniids,
Dyed Corals, | 
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Leather troubles....Allelopathy?-01/30/08 Hi Bob, For the past
several weeks I have been experiencing problems with all my leathers.
The first leather I noticed that was in trouble was my Toadstool, which
I had for over two years. It detached from the rock and then quickly
shriveled away. The next leather issue was what I believe is a green
tree coral. I got this leather as a frag about a year ago. It grew to
about three inches tall and then all of the limbs fell off one by one.
Strangely enough I have fragged the limbs and they are doing great,
<huh... good> but the original trunk has still not started any new
growth. <Is it still alive?> Next in line was my year old Fiji
Yellow. The yellow leather closed up for over three weeks and looked as
if small bites were taken out of it. No foul play suspected. The yellow
has now opened twice as big and all injuries healed. Finally my five
year old stubby finger leather has begun to suffer. It appears that four
or five fingers are burned to the base and another almost appears as
a flesh wound. I would really like to avoid any further injury to this
leather if possible. Is there any thing I can do? <It's hard to say
without knowing what is causing this.> I am assuming that it is some
sort of allelopathy? <It could be.> I have read multiple articles
about coral aggression and allelopathy but not sure as to which ones are
the culprits. <There may not be one culprit so much as just a bad
combination of tank mates.> Could it be growing pains between only
the leathers? I originally thought it was a wall of frogspawn which took
up the entire top left hand side of my tank. I have since sold a good
portion of it. I'm still not sold on that theory though. <These
things can bee quite difficult to figure out specifically.> I then
thought it could be the large Maze Brain next to the Stubby Finger
leather, but that would not account for the injury to the other
leathers. <Hmm, maybe, but as far as allelopathy goes, I would
expect the leather corals to hurt the maze brain.> I believe that the
Maze Brain uses its sweepers rather than chemical warfare. <It's
possible.> The leathers are about three inches apart from each other
and the Stubby Finger leather is about four inches from the Brain
<This is close enough to be in range of sweepers.> (both have been
paired together for years). <This means nothing really. For one
thing, it's not unheard of for corals not to display sweepers for years.
Also, corals change/adapt/grow. Just because they've been playing nice
for years now, doesn't mean they are now or always will. Even the
addition of other leathers may be affecting their
dynamic/interaction/over all level of "hostility." These things are so
poorly understood even in the wild. You can imagine how little is known
about them in captivity.> I'm not sure if I should try to move the
leathers further apart or to remove some mushrooms that are close by. Is
there a specific type of coral that would cause the above symptoms even
if the corals were on opposite ends of the tank? <Some leathers are
toxic enough to affect corals anywhere in the same tank system as them.>
About my tank: My 125 gallon reef has been established for almost eight
years now. I have 6 six foot VHO bulbs, three actinic and three aqua
suns. Two main pumps 1800 and 1200 gph. They are controlled via two
SCWDs and four returns. The actinic lights come on an hour before and
after the main lights. Temp is between 76 - 78 degrees. I have a wet dry
sump, but plan on purchasing an ADHI refugium shortly. <cool> For
the time being I have a small basket of Chaeto algae in the main tank
for nutrient control. 15 gallon water changes are done weekly. I am
using an AquaFX RO/DI system for RO water. Salinity level is at 1.025;
PH 7.8; Nitrates and Nitrites are at 0. Alkalinity is a little on the
low side. I am starting to use a buffer to bring it up. <sounds
good> I also skim and use activated carbon. <Maybe more activated
carbon would help.> The only other additive I use is marine snow.
<a useless product> I also have 150lb of Fiji live rock. Last but
certainly not least, I just wanted to say thank you to both you and
Anthony Calfo for guiding aquarists through an extraordinary hobby!
<Not Bob here, but will pass along the thanks...> Your book "The
Conscientious Marine Aquarist" was the very first book I purchased when
I began this hobby almost ten years ago. <Was my first book purchase
too. :-)> Since then I have followed up with "Reef Invertebrates" and
Anthony's "Book Of Coral Propagation". I consider you both invaluable
assets to the hobby. Thanks for the years of help and for saving me a
small fortune by constantly emphasizing research and education.
Thanks Again! Dave Gambone <De nada, Sara M.>
Bleached Sarcophyton 1/23/08 Hello Crew! <Kirk> As I was
getting ready for a good nights sleep last night I gazed into my 29gal
softy tank and to my horror noticed that my Sarcophyton (ehrenbergii?
Toadstool shape with polyps primarily around outer edge of the head) was
looking very white. It has a good 6" head and was uniformly discolored
and I have 2 small frags from this one that are showing the same signs.
My Calcium test kit ran out about 2 weeks ago and I have been lax in
getting a new one. Well, I got one today and my calcium was at 250ppm. I
know, Yikes! <No big deal; easy to rectify> I also noticed today
that just a few of my mushroom polyps looked a little bleached around
the edges as well. <Oh... in the same small system...> The pumping
xenia and zoas in the tank all looked fine. Is this bleaching typical
with low calcium or should I be looking for something else? <Mmm,
yes... very likely a "cascade effect"... the low calcium or whatever
caused it, stressing the Cnidarians... their reactions poisoning each
other...> My light fixture went out about a month ago and I replaced
it with an identical setup (dual PC, 1 10k, 1 actinic, 65W each). At
first I thought this might be the culprit but it seems like it bleached
out almost overnight. One other thought, I have a very small green Zoa
(2 polyps) <... Irk... even more toxic> that broke off from the
main colony and I was able to rubber band it to a piece of rubble and it
is starting to takeoff. The other day I moved it closer to the top of
the tank to get some extra light, well, apparently somebody got a little
clumsy and knocked it to the bottom of the tank into the sand upside
down. I noticed this first thing in the morning yesterday and replaced
it in a more stable spot. Only the moon lights were running when I did
this so I don't know if the Sarcophyton looked white at this time or
not. <The Zoanthid... most likely the primary instigator here> I
have bumped up water changes and upped my dose of SeaChem reef complete
to boost calcium back to normal levels but don't want to over do it and
shock anything. <Good idea> Other tank specs: Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: 0 Ph: 8.3 KH: 8 Other Stock: 2
ocellaris clowns Bi-color blenny Skunk cleaner shrimp Serpent
star Blue / scarlet leg hermits Nassarius / turbo snails Any
thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kirk <Mmm, do
peruse here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked
files above... to gain insight, a gist of what is probably occurring
here. Bob Fenner>
Re: bleached Sarcophyton 1/23/08 Thanks Bob! I almost didn't even
mention the Zoa falling because it was so small, <Take a read about
re this life... VERY toxic... even to humans> I'm glad I did now. I
guess it just goes to show that no detail can be too small and even the
smallest creature can have a big impact in a small system. Thanks for
the reference, I will pay particular attention to properly securing
individuals in the future. <Ahhh, BobF>
Devil's hand leather coral.... hlth./appearance, spelling and reading
01/22/2008 Hey guys and gals, I have extensively used this
site to help me in my tank endeavors..... really got to reading after
getting so much bad info at LFS and on the internet.... plus, by
reading, you don't get yelled (virtually) at like at some of the
forums... this site has really helped me out a lot and I was
wondering if you could answer me a hard/specific question though......
I have a 30 gallon tank, 2.5 gallon hob fuge 1 Koralia nano ph, a
filter BioWheel rated for 55 gallons.... 130 watts pc....25 watts
t-5... ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 10 ppm I have the
scissortail goby (Gary oldman) now 4 inches ..... he needs to get out of
my 30 gallon and go to my new 75 (am going to replace him with a smaller
fish, possibly a filamented flasher wrasse or/and yellow clown goby)..
the tank currently houses a scooter blenny 1.5 inches (Dante 5000), red
firefish 2.5 inches (sharkmonster), green clownfish goby 1 inch (nerd)
and a wheelers goby 2.5 inches (cerebus) 2 cleaner shrimp (matilda and
leon) a pom pom (Tyler durdan) a peppermint shrimp (Skittles) a serpent
star (brad) 10 Nerite snails (the bums) 5 blue hermits (blues boys) 1
hawing hermit (Robocop), 6 Mexican Turbos (m-13), 2 onyx narcissis
snails (gods disciples) 1 porcelain crab (yashimi) 1 abalone snail
(golum) +1 devils hand leather and 1 mushroom polyp and some star polyps
that came with a rock on accident (which is cool) the question is, my
leather has not "sat down" on the rocks, he hasn't extended his base to
fasten on the rocks, and he still is kinda propped up on the
rock....also, he has small little polypy looking things on him, but I
have seen so many pics online that the feeders are much more
extended..... <Ah, yes> it is approx a foot and half from the top
with the power head blowing over the top of it (not directly on it)...
is there anything I should be doing to make it extend (both its base and
polyps)?? if you need a pic I have one. its just about 1 meg in
size.... <Something amiss with your water quality likely, or a
negative interaction with the other cnidarians... and your spelling
checker... the beginning of sentences are capitalized. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/alcyoncompfaqs.htm and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Re:
devil's hand leather coral.... 01/22/2008 just to note.....
tank 6 months old... leather has been in for 2 weeks <Keep
reading... learning to use your Grammar checker. B>
Distressed
Leather? (Leather Coral Malady) 12/11/07 Hey,
<Right back atcha! Scott F. in tonight!> I have a Toadstool Leather
that I have had for a few years now. It had a yellow discoloration on
the cap in the past and I put the leather in Lugol's and it seemed to
take care of the problem. It has returned and the Lugol's doesn't seem
to work this time. The middle of the cap has begun to decay, or I guess
you could call them areas of necrosis. It hasn't look healthy for a few
months now. <Hmm.. not a good sign. Something may be amiss here!>
I have placed in Lugol's solution 3 times during this time period. Is
there anything else that I can do? Any ideas on what might cause this?
Thank you for your help. Zach Stamey <Well, Zach- this type of
"necrosis" could be caused by a few different things, ranging from a
localized reaction by the coral to something lodged in its tissue (such
as a piece of sand, debris, etc.) to a possible response to poor or
inadequate flow, or degraded water chemistry. Do some investigation and
see if you can correct any problems that you find. The remedy for this
condition is typically the Lugol's dips that you have already employed,
or freshwater dips. If this does not seem to reverse the condition, you
could always play "ER" and surgically cut out the affected area with a
sharp razor blade. As you probably know, these corals generally respond
well to such procedures, and heal quickly if environmental conditions
(flow, water quality, etc.) are maintained. With some careful
observations, minor system "tweaks", and some perseverance, you can help
your Leather coral regain its former glory and thrive for years! Hope
this helps! Regards, Scott F.>
Distressed Leather (Cont'd.) 12/16/07 Thanks for the info.
<You're quite welcome!> Is there a limit to how many times I should
try the Lugol's treatment? <I would not try it more than once a
day...maybe once every other day. Not based on any scientific data, just
personal experience...I don't like to overuse the stuff.> I am pretty
sure that its not water quality or water movement. The water quality is
maintain very well. I may have to be a surgeon for a day! <Break out
the razor blade and get to work! Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>
Toadstool problems... Allelopathic Potential 12/04/2007 Hello and
thank you for all the great work and support that WWM provides the
community! <Hi Josh, Mich here and on behalf of Bob and the rest of
the crew you're welcome!> I recently was given a toadstool as a gift
from a local reefers tank. <Very nice!> It appeared to be fine for
the first week or so and then the polyps stopped opening up. I assumed
it was getting ready to slough it's protective layer due to the stress
of a new system, transport etc. A day or two later it did shed it's
layer, however it still did not open up. <Sometimes it takes some
time.> I noticed a bristle worm exit an opening between the base of
the stem and the live rock but did not think too much of it at the time
since I was under the impression that bristleworms did not eat corals.
<The majority do not eat living coral tissue, but most will eat necrotic
coral tissue, which may be what this guy was doing.> Should I be
concerned about the worm? <It is unlikely that this is a cause and
effect situation.> A week later it shed again and now some of the
polyps are opening up, <Ahhh, good to hear.> they are not
extending as far but it seems everyday that more polyps open and they
extend a little farther. <Very good!> The thing that has me
concerned now is that there is a brownish crust moving up the stem of
the coral. <Perhaps algae?> I can see in parts where it is
sloughing off, <You might try to blow off this film with a turkey
baster or even direct a powerhead towards this area.> the coral
itself is standing erect and I think it has plenty of flow. In fact I
moved it once because I thought it had too much flow. I have a Koralia
#2 pushing flow around it plus a Maxijet 1200 agitating the water
surface above it and the output of my sump is above it also. <OK.>
Tank params: 45-gallon reef with a Megaflow 2 sump (bioballs
removed). Aquamedic TurboFlotor 1000 inside the sump. I get some
nasty black skim material in the collection cup, I empty it 2-3 times a
week. <Good.> 36" Nova Extreme T5 lighting Two Maxijet 1200's
on a wave maker Koralia #2 Nitrites 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrates 10
PH 8.4 Alk 1.8 <Low, 2.5 - 3.5 meq/L is desirable.> Salinity
1.025 Temp 78.4 deg I had about 45 pounds of live rock and just
added another 20 pounds of rock from an old reefers tank that had been
sitting in his garage for two years ( I soaked the rocks for several
days before adding). All the other corals are doing great (xenia,
shrooms, Colt leather, frogspawn, Kenya trees, Favia moon, Zoanthids,
Cabbage leather, and some GSP. <Holy allelopathy Batman! You have
some big players in the games of chemical warfare! Hope you running
carbon and changing it frequently! More here:
http://www.reefkeepingfever.com/article1.htm > I have some hermits
and snails along with three peppermint shrimp that devastated the
Aiptasia! <YAY!> For fish I have a six-line wrasse, <OK.>
flame Hawkfish, <And you still have shrimp, hermit crabs and snail?
Not likely for long! More here:
http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/profiles/682.htm > and a blue lined
Midas Blenny. <OK.> Should I just give it some more time I cannot
find pics of toadstools with that brown stuff on the stalk, however it
does not feel necrotic, although I guess I am not sure what it feels
like, but the stalk is firm not mushy. <Doesn't sound necrotic to
me.> Thanks so much in advance! <Welcome! Mich> Josh
Crumbling leather corals 12/2/07 Hi, I was wondering
if you could help identify a problem I'm having with my leather corals
(mushroom and devils hand and flower leather). I recently moved my tank
because I had a new one built (old one was leaking). Before the move all
my corals were doing great, opening everyday. <Just FYI, it took me
several minutes to correct all your typos, grammar and spelling errors
in even just these first few sentences. Unfortunately, that's less time
I have to think about your actual question.> Whilst we were changing
the tanks over my corals were put into huge containers. Unfortunately
they were in there longer than expected due to problems with the new
tank. For about 3 days, I did put lights, heaters and pumps in the
containers. When moving the corals into the new tank after a couple
of days I noticed they were crumbling. I have been told that this was
probably an infection because they were in the containers for too long
and could not shed. Part of the flower leather survived but most of it
just crumbled. After this I did water checks which were all fine and
then added another devils hand which seemed to be doing well but I moved
it and found out that this also had holes in it there is also another
mushroom in the tank which seems ok (it does not have any holes in it)
but it has not opened in over a week now. <Hmm... not good.>
Throughout all of this I have had green plate coral, sun polyps plus
others that all survived the move and are doing well. I really do not
understand what is affecting the soft corals in my tank. Before I had
two t5 light bulbs and 2 normal tubes. When I changed the tank I changed
to halides 250w and two t5's plus moonlights. Could this be the problem.
<I doubt it's the lighting. But if you didn't properly acclimate, that
wouldn't help. It sounds like your leathers have some sort of infection
(maybe fungal). If they're crumbling at this point, there's not much you
can do except try to save what's left.> thanks Steve <Best,
Sara M.>
Hand Coral exposed to tap water - 11/26/07 Yes I know this is
stupid and no I didn't do it. My daughter was trying to help get
some red algae off a piece of live rock which the hand coral is
attached. She rinsed it with tap water. Of course it looks withered
pretty bad. Is there any way to save it or is it a lost cause?
<Well, I'm sorry I don't know what a "hand coral" is, but I'm
assuming it's some kind of leather or other soft coral, right? In
any case, it's probably not a lost cause (at least not from this) if
you quickly rinsed it off with clean salt water and replaced it.
It's obviously stressed, but with a little TLC (and so long as she
didn't soak it tap water) it should be able to pull through. I once
dropped (err... accidentally threw) a moon coral into a bucket of
vinegar. It was very unhappy for a long time, but it recovered and
forgave me eventually. Good luck, Sara M.>
Re: Hand Coral exposed to tap water -11/27/07 Yes, It is a
leather coral. It is in the tank with new salt water so hopefully it
will come back. It looks like it is shedding right now but we will
see. <Shedding should actually help since it's the coral's way
ridding itself of external irritants. If you want to be
super-cautious, run some activated carbon and/or do a water change
after it sheds.> Thank you so much for responding. I just needed
a little reassurance so I don't yell too much at my kid. <Hehe,
my pleasure. Hey, she's not alone. The first week I set up my first
salt water aquarium, I rinsed my live rock in tap water too (though
granted, I didn't have any coral yet). And wow, I really MUST stop
admitting my own past stupidities here or else people are going to
start asking Bob why I'm here... lol> So my child thanks you too.
<De nada, Sara M.> |
Re: Hey Bob, its Niki. Got an anemone question here. Actually, now a
predaceous Nudi. on Sarcophyton (elegans?) 11/21/07 You are
the best! That site rocks. Thanks, Bob. One more question...have you
ever seen/heard of a 'Yellow Fiji Umbrella' specific Nudibranch?
<Mmm, have been to Fiji a few times, diving... seen yellow
Nudibranchs there... Do you have a pic?> I found a few nudis the
same exact color of the coral latched onto some very unhappy Sarcos.
<Bad... should be physically removed, search the soft corals for egg
packets, those removed as well> They reminded me very much of
smaller versions of the larger white Nudibranchs that we find on the
Sinularias and such. The difference is that they mimic the yellow
color of the umbrellas, much like the Nudibranchs found on P.
cylindrica. I do have pics if you need to see them. Thanks, Niki
<Please do send these along... have collected, and discourage the
collection of the "Yellow Sarcos" from here, and Tonga... as for
whatever reasons (I know naught) they don't often live for long...
but have been so inobservant as to not notice these apparent
predators. Be chatting, BobF>
Re: Niki here, w/ pic of our little yellow friend. Nudi feeding on
Sarcos... 11/22/07 So here's the culprit. <Ah,
yes. Nice pix> I found about 10 or so embedded very deep in the
tissue, all hidden very cleverly within the ruffles of the Fiji
Yellows. The only reason they came to my attention was the fact that
I was treating all of my alcyonaceans with Levimasole Hydrochloride
due to a rampant infestation of the run-of-the-mill white
Nudibranchs, mostly on my Sinularias. The little yellow guys started
bailing off. I have included a pic next to the other Nudibranch so
you can get a feel for the size. <Yes... reports up to 1">
The white Nudi is almost an inch long. All of the yellow ones were
about the same size. Let me know what you think, thanks again, Niki
<Mmm, I do think you are wise to be using a dewormer. Look for the
spiral egg masses... and remove them as well. Cheers, Bob Fenner> | 
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Coral I.D.... Lemnalia and Discosoma neglecta... Inappropriate
Housing... Mixes 11/14/2007 Mitch, <Hi there random aquarist!
Mich with you again.> I must apologize... <As must I, for the
delay... was trying to gather a little more info here before
responding.> I ought to have told you more about the tank this coral
is in. <Can be helpful.> It is in my nano tank...11 gallons,
<Yikes! Small!> 13 watts of fluorescents, <Yikes! Dim!> with a
type of wet dry filtration using ceramics instead of bio balls, a
sponge, and carbon in the lighting hood. <Yikes! Nitrates?> As for
the creatures in it I have the two afore mentioned <Yikes!
Photosynthetic!> along with 2 turbo snails, 4 blue leg crabs, 1 fire
fish goby, and 2 small hippocampus erectus (black seahorses). <Yikes!
Crowded!> I did some follow up research on your suggestions and those
particular corals require more light and water movement then my tank
creates. <Yes you are correct here. This is an incompatible mix. Your
seahorses require lower flow and lower temperature and really should be
a larger tank than this, 20 gallons at a minimum, 30 gallons would be
better. The corals need much more flow and warmer temps that the
seahorses and require significantly more light..> Another piece of
info that might help is that my horses are able to hang on the coral in
question with no significant problems. <Well most any of the corals
that this resembles are pretty noxious. I really know very little about
seahorses...Perhaps this is a function of the seahorse and not the
coral.> So I am still wondering if it could possibly be some type of
finger leather. <Sinularia are some of the most noxious.> The pic
I sent you was in the middle of the photoperiod. I will attach a photo
of the whole tank and a close up of the coral in question during the
middle of the photoperiod. <Colors just seem off...> At night the
specimen shrinks up into a small stout version of itself sort a like a
dead pink tree. <Shrinkage, is typical in both Sinularia and
Lemnalia. But this coral should not be this limp and floppy. Boy! That
sounds bad… > The gentleman at the LFS looked at the pic and
suggested that it was a type of color impregnated finger coral that was
propagated in captivity. <I’m really have a hard time getting a good
feel for the colors, but brownish pink or even green or purple exist in
nature.> I now defer to your expertise. <Well, I certainly
wouldn’t call myself an expert, just a fellow hobbyist who enjoys
helping others.> Any other thoughts or suggestions? <Have included
above. A few more links you might find helpful here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tube-mfi.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seahorsecare.htm A tremendous resource
here: http://www.seahorse.org/ Hope you find some helpful, Mich> | .JPG)
|
Leather Coral… Closed / Male Scalefin Anthias… Capturing 10/17/07
Hi there, <Hi K, Mich here.> Firstly I'd like to say this site is
great and thank you in advance for your assistance. <Well, glad you
like it and welcome!> Problem 1: I purchased a leather coral 3
days ago on a lump of live rock roughly 1kg in weight with over half a
dozen small hitchhikers growing on it. The small anemones <Yikes! Is
it Aiptasia? Does it look like anything on this page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aiptasidfaq2.htm and a few small corals
attracted me more than the leather coral itself which is about the size
of a fist. This is revealing to be a foolish mistake on my behalf.
<Uh-oh!> The hitchhikers are doing well and are always open and look
healthy <If it's Aiptasia, I'm not surprised.> but the leather
coral itself hasn't opened up since I introduced it into the tank except
once but very slightly. <Sometimes takes time.> Now that I think
about it, it was closed in the display tank before I purchased it which
concerns me, <Mmm, me too!> as it was in a leather coral only
tank with most of the others open barring a few. About a dozen to be
precise. I have placed the live rock about half way in the tank with
medium water flow directed onto it. <Sounds OK.> My local aquatic
store have advised me that “it will wake up in a few days” <It can.>
but I needed reassurance and decided to seek your expertise. I don’t
know whether it’s ok or dying. <Mmm, doesn't sound sick or dying,
just unhappy for now.> Please help as I do not want to lose this
coral before I have experienced its beautiful splendour. <I'd give it
a little time, change your carbon and perhaps do a water change.
Sarcophyton corals can be quite chemically toxic to other corals and
there may be other corals in your tank that are chemical producers as
well. The carbon or PolyFilter will help reduce allelopathic potential.>
Problem 2: In an impulse buy (I seem to do this a lot) <Not good.
Is always best to research any prospective purchase.> I bought a
female Scalefin anthias around 4 months ago. I found it to be quite shy
but very peaceful and pretty so I thought I’d get another one a week or
so later. (I wasn’t aware at this time that this species is sequential
hermaphrodites) To my luck it was slightly bigger than the first. You
can see where I’m going with this. <Uh-huh.> Pretty much as soon
as I introduced it into the tank it started chasing the other one
around. Within a month it turned into a male and became aggressive
towards my clown fish too. Recently it has made a game of nipping at my
cleaner shrimp when feeding in an attempt to drive them away!
<Yikes!> The transformation process was interesting but definitely
not worth the bother. I know that by adding more females I could calm
him down but I don’t want to have to do that. I am tired of this pest
but despite my best efforts I haven’t been able to catch the little
troublemaker to take him back to the local aquatic store as he is fast
and loves to hide in burrows which my blue cheek goby dug under rocks
before it died. <Uh-oh!> Whatever it takes I want it out of there
before it causes some irreversible damage and I don’t mind taking the
female back if it means the male will go. I’ve been told it wouldn’t go
into a trap and taking down 20kg of stacked live rock and risking damage
to other inhabitants is my only option! Which I’m not too keen on doing
for obvious reasons. Is this really my only option? <There are other
options... You will want to do some further searches on the Internet and
perhaps check on some bulletin board sites... One option that I have
heard used with success is feeding the fish in the corner for several
days and then taking a length on acrylic, placing it in the tank while
feeding and trapping the in this corner.> Tank specs: 260ltr (68
gallons) Juwel tank, 2 Tetra Tec 700 filters, Vectron 2 uv filter, v2
Skim Protein Skimmer, factory standard heater (does the job), factory
standard pump for water flow (not so great) and an additional power head
with 850 gph flow rate, 2 marine white light bulbs (I was told these
were adequate for soft corals), <I would do more research here, this
doesn't sound like sufficient light to me and may contributing to your
Sarcophytons’ displeasure.> air block, and 20kg live rock with live
sand. <Your system would likely benefit from some additional LR.>
The systems been running for 6 months. <A young system.> Tank
inhabitants: Yellow tang, blue tang, <Too small a system for
either of these fish, let alone both of these fish!> 2 Ocellaris
clowns, female Scalefin anthias, male Scalefin anthias, 3 cleaner
shrimps, <Better in even numbers.> 12 turbo snails (started off
with 6, in 6 months they have doubled!), red sea pulse coral,
<Xenia?> pink pussy coral, <No idea what this might be and
Googling it isn't exactly helpful.> leather coral, Japanese pagoda
tube worm. <?> Please find pictures attached. <Mmm, no pics
were included.> Thanks again, <Welcome!> regards K <Cheers,
Mich>
Bleached Toadstool – 10/15/07 Hi, <<Hello>> I bought a
Sarcophyton leather coral 4 months ago, all has been well until I
changed my bulbs. My aquarium is 240l and is fitted with 2 Aquablue+
T5s. All tests seem fine, Calcium is a bit low at 250. <<More than a
“bit” low...but simple water changes should correct>> The problem I
am having is I swapped the two bulbs for 2 new ones. Since then the
toadstool has been looking bleached. I was wondering if there is
anything that can be done to bring it back to its original color?
<<If the bulbs you replaced were “very” old, this may be a reaction to
the increased light intensity. Probably best to leave it be at this
point as it has surely begun to adjust/acclimate on its own...but for
future reference please read here
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm). Another possibility
is the Sarcophyton is reacting to an environmental/water chemistry
issue. Your Calcium reading indicates an imbalance in bio-mineral
elements at the least...do test for and perform a water change/water
changes to bring things back in balance>> Thanks, Phil <<Regards,
EricR>>
Leather Coral Help – 11/13/07 Hi <Greetings, Mich currently in
the Bahamas... being put to work by Bob> I recently bought a common
toadstool leather for my nano cube. <Are quite allelopathic.> Its
water parameters are all good <Vague...> and I was using the
water from my 120 gallon to set it up so it won't need the 8-week
maturation. I also had a green star polyp <Also quite allelopathic.>
who is doing excellent. <Typically a winner in the chemical wars.>
Today when I introduced the toadstool it opened up fully then the next
day it went and limped to the side and was shedding a little. I know
that they periodically shed but is this normal. <Maybe, but with the
timing, I think it is more likely related to environmental stress.>
He also has some brown chunky things attached to him but he is not
decaying. <Huh? Not exactly sure what you might be talking about
here... a picture might be helpful.> I got him from a great shop that
had him for 5 months. He also has these two weird sections that are sort
of a light green color or "Nuclear" <Mmm, "Nuclear"?> color and
maybe that’s why he's shedding. <Unlikely> Any help would be
appreciated.. <Could be routine shedding, but I suspect it might be a
reaction to environmental stressors.> Thanks so much <Welcome,
Mich... squinting for free Internet service...>
Re: Toadstool coral... Natural Diversity 10/21/07 Hi
<Hello again, Mich here.> Thanks for your advice earlier,
<Welcome!> my toadstool is looking excellent now <Good to hear...
Though I wish I was still squinting for free Internet in the Bahamas...>
but I had one last question. <OK> My toadstool is a very large and
mature one but when I look at other pictures of toadstools, they all
have circular, perfectly round stalks. <Not always the case.>
Mine is like a triangle. <Is fine.> He's doing great though.
<Excellent.> Any explanation would be great thanks. <Is how it
grew... likely a product of its environment.> He's the typical brown
toadstool. Also when I look at other toadstools, when they close their
whole crown goes in while mine only retracts its tentacles. <This is
not unusual. Mich>
Leather Tree Coral Sick 9/28/07 I wrote about a week
ago with a lighting issue in my 55G reef tank. I purchased a new ballast
for my current satellite fixture and all of the corals look happier,
except one. My leather tree coral is having troubles. First of all it
went through a period of time where it was limp, still looked healthy
but just limp. Well after changing the ballast it has straightened up
but now it has what appear to be burns on the tips. The tips are white
and when disturbed they disintegrate. It also seems exceptionally prone
to injury. I picked it up to rinse it in a bucket of tank water, and
just my hand cradling it ripped a big tear in the base. Is this coral
experiencing too much light? I tend to think so but in researching the
issue on your site I have found that typically bleached corals do not
disintegrate or experience any kind of wasting. Also is its propensity
to injury indicative of any larger issue? <Most likely yes. Was the
coral dyed? Dyed leathers can be very sensitive to contact. It's also
possible that there's something else in the tank that is toxic to the
coral (this could be anything from another coral to something in an
additive/supplement/food/decor/etc.). Just in case, you should start
running activated carbon ASAP (also because the dying coral is also
toxic). Leathers do shed periodically (and possibly prompted by stress).
So if this dying tissue is actually just a layer over a lot of healthy
tissue, then maybe it's just shedding (but it doesn't sound like it).>
All of my parameters are normal. Ammonia/nitrites 0ppm, nitrates 10ppm,
calcium 400ppm, ph 8.2, temp 80F, good flow, great skimmer. <This
coral seems to be dying. It's difficult to say why without a lot more
information (and even with all the information, we still might not know
for sure). I don't think a lack of, too much, or even a sudden change in
lighting alone would do this to a leather coral. The sudden change in
lighting probably exacerbated some other problem the coral was having.
If the coral is rapidly disintegrating, I would remove it from the tank.
The dying tissue of these corals can spoil your water. I'm sorry to say,
I'm not sure if the coral can be saved at this point. If it were my
coral, I'd try to find the healthiest part and frag off the rest.
Good luck, Sara M.>
Distressed Leather (Coral)? – 09/22/07 Thank you so much for this
website. It is very informative and has helped us out tremendously.
<Glad to hear that. we have an amazing bunch of talented people that I'm
honored to work with. Scott F. in today.> We have had a Toadstool
Leather coral for about a month and it has been thriving. The last few
days its polyps have not really come out and we noticed some small
yellow patches on the top. We did accidentally hit it the other day when
we were doing a water change. Do you think this is what it could be? It
seems to be doing a bit better today (its polyps have all been out), but
we want to make sure that this is not something to be concerned about.
We do not want to threaten our other coral. Thanks, Bellinda
<Well, Belinda, I have seen this before on my specimens. I am very
clumsy when working in my aquarium, and I have knocked into my Fiji
Yellow Toadstool Leathers a few times. They do develop what looks like a
"bruise" like this if you whack them hard enough. An interesting
reaction. In every case where I have seen this, the coral has recovered
without further issues in just a few days. I'd keep a close eye on the
coral, but if it's like mine, it should recover. In severe instances, if
the tissue starts dying in the affected location, you can take a razor
blade and cut away the necrotic tissue. Again, in clean water and good
conditions, the coral should recover just fine. These guys are
practically "bulletproof" if well cared for. In fact, they are so easy
to care for and propagate that, one day, we may be able to supply all of
the hobby demands for this species of coral through captive propagation,
thus reducing pressure on the wild populations. Hope this helps!
Regards, Scott F.>
Damaged Sinularia...What To Do? – 09/17/07 Hi crew, <<Hiya
Monica>> Love your site, thanks a lot for all the information.
<<Hope you find it of use...>> I have a Sinularia sp that I just
got. I put it in the QT and few days after I did a freshwater dip
with Flatworm Exit (a friend advised but I did it with freshwater
instead of saltwater... wrong !!!). <<Mmm, indeed...most corals
do not take well to freshwater dips in my experience>> I saw
something like a necrotic part but it didn’t have any smell. I took
it out cleaned it and put it back. It didn’t help. <<How so?>>
I am attaching a pic. <<I see it...possibly a physical
injury/scarring as a result of collection>> Now I don’t know if I
should cut it (have never done it) or if is on its way to
recuperate. Please advise. Thanks. Monica Johlic <<Unless
you’re certain the damaged tissue is decomposing or the wound is
spreading/enlarging I would just keep an eye on it and leave it be
to heal on its own (make sure the coral receives good water flow to
allow it to shed metabolites/bacteria). If you determine it to be
necessary, you can carefully remove the diseased or necrotic tissue
with a new razorblade and see if this stops the progression. Eric
Russell>> | 
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