FAQs about Yellow-Eye, Kole Tangs, Disease
FAQs on Kole Tang Disease:
Kole Disease 1,
Kole Disease 2,
Kole Disease 3,
Kole Disease 4,
FAQs on Kole Tang Disease by Category:
Kole Tangs 1,
Kole Tangs 2, &
Kole Identification, Kole Behavior,
Kole Reproduction, &
Ctenochaetus Tangs 1,
Ctenochaetus Tangs 2, &
Ctenochaetus Reproduction, &
Kole Tang; hlth., and Cu f'
Good afternoon Crew,
I unfortunately experienced a loss in my tank last night - my Kole tang.
I've had a Kole Tang previously for years... a curious outgoing fish
that was constantly on the move. I have a shallow 60g tank, 79f, 1.024
salinity, no signs of nitrates/nitrites/ammonia - although I have been
allowing a little hair algae to grow for the upcoming arrival of my Kole
Tang. I'd say overall I feed rather lightly, sometimes every second day
(but am observing my fish growing/fattening up), and only enough that
a small amount of thawed frozen Mysis/brine/etc... falls to the
substrate for my snails/crabs/serpent star, etc
I currently have a few corals, bta, two clowns, yellow watchman goby,
royal gramma... I noticed a plump Kole Tang with what appeared to be ICK
at my LFS and offered to buy him at a greatly reduced price because I've
successfully QT and treated ICKY fish with Cupramine in the past, and
without losses. The Kole Tang went straight into my 30g QT bare bottom
tank and I followed the Cupramine instructions as always. The Kole Tang
would sometimes eat, sometimes not, but frequently picking away at
scraps that had stuck to the foam cover on the filter. He remained
active and plump for the 16day QT. With the Cupramine treatment over and
no signs of white spots, and what looked like a healthy active fish... I
introduced him to my display tank.
The Kole Tang's been shy, not as active, and while I've witnessed him
picking away at the glass and rocks from time to time, I rarely saw him
feeding with the other fish. Almost two weeks later... Last night, he
was on his side in the corner of my tank and breathing rapidly. He still
looked to be of a healthy size, but something was obviously wrong. I
felt that removing him at that point would cause more stress and certain
Watched my cleaner shrimp jump on him at that point, and the Kole Tang
swam away. I checked on him this morning and his outer body had been
completely picked away by hermit crabs and my serpent starfish.
Question... do you think the death may still be Ick related, even though
he appeared to have successfully finished a Cupramine treatment?
<Ick/Crypt might have been a factor... to extent here. As well as the
copper exposure. I suspect this fish had a trauma issue though. Perhaps
from collection, holding, transport...>
I don't think anything in my tank could've harmed him, and he had no
wounds of any sort. I'm assuming my small to medium sized bubble tip
anemone wouldn't have been the culprit (unless the BTA had actually
caught him and was eating him)?
<Could have had a brush here as well>
I'm stumped... I thought I had success in saving this fish from the
<Sometimes Dave, sometimes not. Bob Fenner>
Re: Kole Tang 10/18/17
Could a simple brush from the BTA have done something like that?
<Not likely a Ctenochaetus tang would perish from glancing a BTA; no;
not of/by itself>
I was thinking possibly trauma from collection, but in the QT he was
really active, breathing at what I perceived to be a normal rate, etc...
Cupramine indicates to treat at .5mg/l, and that toxic levels exist at
treatment was definitely at .5mg/l, having checked multiple times
throughout the 16 days. Are some fish (tangs?) more delicate with copper
<Re copper exposure; there is no sub-physiological dose. Akin to
old treatments of humans by mercuricals and arsenicals; you're killing
the host by degrees along w/ the parasite. Tangs are amongst the most
sensitive fishes to copper poisoning. Bob Fenner>
Kole Tang-swollen abdomen – 02/20/13
Good evening! I will start with some information about my tank. I
have a 90 gallon saltwater tank with a wet/dry filter,
<Mmm, I see that you list NO3 at 0 ppm... how is this done w/ a WD
Reef Octopus 150 skimmer, Corallife 150 watt 20 k - radiums, 2x Tunze
NanoStream 6025's, 2x smaller power heads, 1x Quiet One 4,000 return
pump, a 3"sand bed in most areas, about 70 lbs. LR, 5x Nassarius Snails,
1x Super Tongan Nassarius Snail, 1 Turbo snails, 1x Large Cleaner
Shrimp, 1 Green Mandarin (eats all foods offered and has substantial
Copepod population) , 1 Hoeven's Wrasse, 2x Ocellaris clowns, 4x
Bartlett's Anthias, 1 Royal Gramma, 1 Kole Tang, 1x Feather Duster, 1x
Caulastrea Furcata (Candy Cane), 1x Tubastrea (SunCoral), 2xTubiporidae
(Pipe Organ), 2x Briarium (GreenStarPolyp), 2x Zoanthid colony, 1x
(Literally) Yuma Ricordea mushroom, 1x Actinodiscus Mushroom,
5xBlastomussa Wellsi(Blasto), 2x Echinophyllia Aspera(chalice) and
finally 1x Acanthastrea or the Acan frags. Most everything is frag size
maybe slightly larger.
My parameters are as follows:
Phosphate-Test maxed out at 3 and it tested at 3
In regards to the phosphate levels, obviously my personal test kits were
showing 0 on everything. I had a local aquarium member test my
water. So if my phosphates are through the roof then I am assuming
my others like nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia are too.
<Mmm, no; doubtful. Likely there is Nitrate, but not NH3, NO2>
I just received a phosphate reactor tonight and am setting it up.
<There are other, better approaches>
I also ordered a digital phosphate reader. I also, do 10 gallon
water changes weekly. I am also more careful as to how I feed the
tank, not putting excess food in such. So I feel comfortable about
getting all this in check. Like I said, tonight starting with the
phosphate reactor that will be set up tonight.
Despite my phosphate readings, I haven't lost any fish, thankfully.
I am worried about my Kole tang. We have had this Kole tang for
about 7 months now. Eats everything and keeps the rocks in the
tank very clean.
Yesterday was water change day (Sunday) and the Kole tang seemed
slightly bothered by it this time. He/she was fading its color and
hiding. Nothing too drastic though! I put in a Nori sheet
and the Kole tang started grazing on it. Well, today is a
different story. The tang is withdrawn today, has a swollen
abdomen, possibly elevated breathing, and is not interested at all in
food (not normal at all for our tang). I haven't noticed the fish
go #2 either. And this tang is always going! And it is never
white and stringy (I read on here that could indicate bacterial
infection). Here is what we feed - Spectrum pellets, Nori sheets, Mysis,
Cyclop-eeze (small amounts, a little goes a long way) and Selcon is used
a couple times a week.
<Sounds good food-wise>
I understand poor water quality can take its toll. But if the tang
was fine and then just today (Monday) not fine, could it be something
He/she is keeping its color normal 95% of the time today also.
Looking through all the posts, I did see that fish can become
constipated. Could this be our situation?
<Perhaps... my best guess is that it/this is something the fish
(over)ate... and will likely cure itself. I would not treat this fish,
the system, nor remove the Kole elsewhere>
I appreciate any help. Thank you!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Kole Yellow Eye Tang, hlth., HLLE plus?
<... you sent two times 19 plus megs of files... more than 3/5's of
our email server capacity. What re following our instructions re?
I ordered a small-medium Kole Yellow Eye Tang from Liveaquaria.com in the
Diver's Den section. The fish was supposed to be quarantined before he
was sent to me.
<Likely was then>
When I received my Tang he was very stressed and not looking very well.
He was breathing very heavily and refused to swim around. I
acclimated him slowly using the drip method for over an hour to try to let
him calm down a little before messing with him.
I read that Kole Tangs don't do well in quarantine
<Mmm, Acanthuroids, Acanthurids... very commonly have parasitic issues. Best
so I decided to skip it and wanted to use a dip. But after over two
hours of acclimating he still wasn't swimming or breathing normally. I
was worried that the dip would stress him out more and because he was
supposed to be quarantined before I got him I wasn't too worried about
putting him in my 60g.
<? sans dip/bath, quarantine... a mistake>
After a day with the lights out he was doing much better swimming and
eating normally. After day two I started to notice what looked like
small dots on his face. They weren't white and they looked more like
small circular chunks of his face had been taken out. And when I say
small I mean like grain of sand small. They then began to spread up
his face and towards his eyes. As the spots got farther up they turned
into huge oval chunks. You can clearly see that the skin is missing.
He also does this weird thing where he swims up to the glass and spreads
all of his fins and swims backwards very quickly.
<Reacting to its own (internal) reflection likely>
He loses all of his color in the front part of his body while the back
becomes very dark and his pupils get very large. He will have four or
five of these 'episodes' in a two minute time span. The worse ones his
whole entire face is white almost see-through and his back half is almost
At the end he hides in his cave and breathes heavily and then continues on
eating. He will have one 'episode' every half-hour to an hour.
Usually this happens more in the morning almost non-stop. Is he
reacting to his reflection?
I tried putting cardboard in front of the tank but he just kept doing it.
<Cover one end...>
The first thing I thought is HLLE so I tried giving him green, red, and
brown dried algae and seaweed strips but he has never touched them.
<Remove carbon, try Spectrum, read on WWM re....>
He eats mostly Formula 2 Flakes, Frozen Vitamin-Enriched Brine Shrimp,
Spirulina Brine Shrimp, 50-50 Plus, Instant Ocean seaweed blend,
Cyclop-Eeze, and Mysis Shrimp.. He also picks at the rocks all the
Then I noticed the spots spreading to my other fish 3 Green/Blue Chromis, a
Royal Gramma Basslet, and my two clowns a Saddleback and a Ocellaris.
The spots start around the eyes and spread and get bigger as they spread.
Any idea what it could be?
<The erosive condition, HLLE... perhaps Flukes/Trematodes, some
Protozoan... see WWM re these>
Before the Tang there was nothing wrong with the tank. All of the fish
were healthy. The tang also seems more aggressive than what he should
It's probably from being stressed from being sick but he is constantly
trying to pick fights with my Saddleback and the Chromis. He also has
had his scalpel out for more than a week. I thought the spots would go
away with a wider diet and I added Herbtana to their food to try to
boost their immune systems. The spots seem to have stopped growing but
is this going to work long-term?
<... can't say>
I want to find a treatment that will work on all the fish. I might
have noticed some scratching against the sand from my Saddleback and the
Tang but they only did it once so I'm not sure if that's an actual symptom.
Here is a video of the Tang and his face. The before video when he just had
a few bigger circles around his mouth and an after where they are
I also tried to get a video of him doing the swimming thing. I got a
picture of the spots on my Royal Gramma but they aren't nearly as noticeable
and none of the other fish display any other symptoms besides the spots.
<I don't make anything out in this pic.>
Any help at all would be wonderful! Thank you.
and the linked files above... Bob Fenner>
Re: Kole Yellow Eye Tang
I'm so sorry about the videos I tried to make them smaller but I'm terrible
I covered the front end of the tank
<...? See the prev. email. NOT the front or back, just one side>
and he is still doing it. I added some spectrum and removed the carbon to
see if it helps. Thanks
Quarantine Help!!/Kole Tang
So, this past Monday, after much research and consideration, I
purchased a Kole Tang. I brought him home and gave him a five minute pH
adjusted fresh water dip (no MB, as I haven't found it locally
yet), then settled him into his 10g QT which had been filled two days
prior with 50/50 new water and tank water from my display. There is a
small heater, Maxi-jet 400 and Penguin bio-wheel 100 (the wheel had
been curing in my display since boxing day, it also has a small amount
of carbon in the filter pad), and a 3" dia pvc t-joint. Everything
looked good. He immediately hid away in the pipe and would poke his
head out from time to time. Yesterday morning, he was cruising around
the tank, looking for food, so I dropped in a small piece of Omega One
sinking veggie pellet (about 1/4 of a pellet). He immediately took to
it, and ate about half. After 5 minutes, I pulled out the remaining bit
with a baster. Last night I gave him another small piece, which he ate
all of. I checked parameters, amm/nitrite//PO were all 0 and nitrate
was slightly darker then 0 (not quite up to the 5ppm colour, this is
using an API kit) SG was 1.024. I had intended on doing a small (1g)
water change today, but when I got up this morning, he was back to
hiding in his pipe and respirating very heavily. I immediately checked
parameters again, and everything was the same, except nitrate had
climbed to a little over 5ppm.
I did a 50% water change instead, and nitrates are back down to a
little more than 0.
<Your 5ppm reading is not something to worry about...is
I've forbidden my two year old to go near the QT (as he can be a
glass-tapper), and am watching closely. I know there is a reference to
skipping QT with Koles on WWM, but as he was in a shared system with a
variety of Blue Tangs (albeit in other tanks), I didn't want to
risk Ich in my display. Currently in my 65g display are 2, 3"
clowns, 2 cleaner shrimp,
2 hermits and about a dozen snails (turbo/Astrea). There is about
110lbs of LR with plenty of hiding spaces for him, if he wants
<He will want them.>
and a bit of green hair algae to munch on. Aside from respiration, he
looks fine, though he's a bit hard to see in the pipe.
Should I stay the course? Move him into the display? He's an
awesome little dude and was so happy and feisty yesterday, I hate
seeing him hidden away and clearly in trouble.
<If there are no signs of disease and your dealer's tank is not
infected, I would follow the advice you have read and place this fish
in your display tank.>
Thanks so much for your help,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Quarantine Help!!/Kole Tang 2/16/11
That's a great .pdf, thanks!
Okay, I pulled the clowns out and popped them into a bowl with display
water and a lid, to give Kole a chance to get into the tank
<Why the bowl, why not the QT.>
The move didn't go perfectly, his tale spiky deals got a little
caught in the net, and he had to fight a bit to get out. He immediately
headed into the rock work, and stayed there for a while. After about 15
minutes I put the clowns back in (they're a tough pair, well
established, but I don't like giving them a hard time either), and
they seemed oblivious.
<Likely was not necessary to remove the clowns, I'm thinking you
have Percs/false Percs.>
Kole started showing himself, cruising around down low in the column,
while the clowns stayed near the top, where they generally hang out. He
was already picking at some green hair algae on the rock, though
he's still breathing pretty heavily.
Keeping an eye in the hopes to see it drop as he settles in.
<I'd keep the lights off for a couple of days along with not
sitting in front of the tank
all day. This fish is in another new environment, needs time to adjust.
I have had a few better views and still don't see anything that
speaks of disease, though both the cleaners have attempted to give him
He keeps flicking them off in favour of cruising for algae, which
I'm hoping is a good sign (hoping if he were in discomfort from Ich
or whatever, he'd welcome them. Could be noob wishful
thinking....). I'm going to leave the tank lights off for the day
and just keep an extra close eye on everybody.
Thanks again so much,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Quarantine Help!!/Kole Tang 2/16/11
Haha, read that email while sitting in front of the tank. I've
moved now, and turned off the overhead lights too. I'm not going to
obsess, I'll just take a quick peek a few times throughout the day.
He was swimming in a moderate flow area, not doing much but very heavy
breathing, but like you suggested, I'll leave him be. I'll
leave you guys alone too, unless something drastic changes.
As an aside, I opted for the bowl thinking that I was trying to keep
them separate for the move, and at some point they would have been in
the same quarters if I didn't use it, and while I could have moved
the clowns from the bowl to the QT after Kole was out, keeping them in
the bowl for 15 minutes meant I could simply gently pour them back into
the display, rather than having to net them again (the female was not
impressed with being removed). While they are small (I've forgotten
and didn't note it when I bought them, but they're aquacultured
clowns, and I think ocellaris/false Percs), the female has shown some
aggression in the past (had a go at both cleaners when they were
introduced, and occasionally tells my hand it's too close), so I
thought better safe than sorry. Kole headed for the rock so quickly I
doubt it would have been a problem, but live and learn. They seem happy
and back to normal, anyways.
Thanks again, have a great day, and like I said, I'll leave you and
the Kole alone for a while now.
<Sounds good. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Quarantine Help!!/Kole Tang 2/16/11
Thanks so much for your quick reply. I wasn't sure how many of you
were left coasters and was worrying about the time difference.
<There are a few left coasters on the crew, Bob and Scott V. for
sure, but I reside in Michigan.>
He's starting to poke out of his pipe a bit more, though still
respirating heavily. I can't see any evidence of disease, but
I'm still pretty new at this. Gills look good (aside from fast
movement), fins and body all look good (no abrasions, bumps or spots I
can see), eyes are clear (does that only matter when buying fish at the
market to eat?).
<Well, you definitely want to buy healthy looking fish to eat, but
then again there is nothing healthy looking about a dead fish. :-) I
will attach a chart put out by Hikari that is useful in determining
After my last message he looked like he was looking for a bit of food,
so I dropped him another piece of pellet and it's gone now. I'm
hoping (as a best case) he's just stressed, and that perhaps 10g
with that equipment is just a bit too small for him?
<Oh yes, and prefers better security than a pipe.>
Hopefully the move will make him happy!
<I'm thinking so.>
Thanks again, I'll report back.
<Please do, and you're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Quarantine Help!!/Kole Tang 2/16/11- 2/17/11
Just a quick happy note to say that Kole is doing well.
Still pretty shy, he only pokes out of the rock work for a few seconds
at a time, but he's grazing on algae and even had a go at some of
the mysis I dropped in this morning. He's still breathing a little
heavy, but is looking great otherwise.
<Give it some time and maintain high water quality, it is a must for
Thanks, as always for the calm, comforting help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Chloroquine phosphate usage/dosage
2/13/09 I acquired a Kole recently, and put him into
quarantine where I've noticed two relatively small white patches on
him. About one month ago after reading Bob Fenner's writings here,
I acquired some Chloroquine phosphate from a Canadian pharmaceutical
company. It came in 250 mg tablets. My question is how to go about
trading him. The fish is in a 10 gallon quarantine tank with a seeded
filter, but I know that frequent water changes will be necessary.
Specifically, how do we administer the does which I believe is 10
mg/liter (380 mg/10 gallon tank)? <You could "grind up"
the tablet/s... with a pill crusher... or have a pharmacist do this for
you (grind, weigh)... "guess"/measure as to about the right
amount otherwise> This drug is not like copper. We have no way of
testing its level. As we will need to do water changes from time to
time, how can we be sure that the level is correct? <One can only
"guess-timate" presently. There is a broad range of efficacy,
safety> Your advice will be greatly appreciated as we would very
much like to save this fish. Thank you, Jeffrey Castaldo <And re the
"patches" period... I would not likely treat for
this/these... better to dip/bath and place this Ctenochaetus in your
main display. Bob Fenner>
Re: Chloroquine phosphate usage/dosage -
2/13/09 Based upon a dosage of 10 mg per 1 L, which is what I
have read here, 380 mg (1.5 tablets) would be correct, and easy enough
to attain accurately with a pill cutter. <We are in agreement>
However, having just acquired this fish, I am curious as to why you
recommend to just dip/bath the fish and place it into my main display
tank without the usual 30 day quarantine I usually adhere to, and what
is normally stressed here on WWW. <This genus is
"touchier" than "average"... and that you state you
have only a ten gallon to quarantine it in... My high confidence
opinion is that there is much less likelihood to be transmittal of
pests, parasites (excluded through preventative bath) than subsequent
damage to this specimen in a months isolation there> Without a
photograph, are you able to give me some insight as to what those
patches are? <Mmm, only guesses in either case. I have collected
Combtooth tangs in a few countries, though primarily in HI... these are
often hand-damaged through moving from hand netting (off a barrier,
mist net) to collecting/decomp. buckets... and later processing...
Often what one sees here are actual "fingerprints" on the
fishes' sides...> And when you recommend a dip/bath, are you
referring to plain buffered (8.4) freshwater, with Methylene blue,
Formalin, or? <I am referring to all of these possible protocols. I
would use pH adjusted FW, some MB and Formalin... the last with heavy
aeration> Also, I am still uncertain as how to go about keeping the
dose therapeutic when I need to make frequent water changes. I suppose
I could use Prime, but I am uncertain as to how to incorporate that
into the treatment. <A good question. I don't know either. Maybe
ask the folks at FishVet (.com)> I am sending this follow-up because
I do not fully understand, and want to administer the proper treatment.
Thank you very much for your assistance. Jeffrey Castaldo <A
pleasure to conspire with you, BobF>
Re: Chloroquine phosphate usage/dosage -
2/13/09 Thank you for clarifying this to me, and for your
excellent advice and honesty. I realize that there is no clear-cut
solution for all situations; many times we must learn through trial and
error. Best regards, Jeffrey Castaldo <Ah, yes... am doing my best
to share, warn folks of my too-many errors... so they can avoid these
trials. Cheers! BobF>
Kole Tang Question, Ctenochaetus
acclimation, lack of quarantine 5/28/2008
Dear Crew, <Andy> I was reading up on
Kole Tangs because I'm thinking of purchasing one for my 110g
display and I noticed in the article written by Bob
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/koletang.htm ) that he generally
advises against quarantining this species and instead using an
extended pH adjusted freshwater dip (how long is
"extended"?). <Five or so minutes... w/ constant
observation, "swirling" of water or the use of
mechanical aeration (a "bubbler")> Has anything
changed/is this still good advice? As always, thank you! Andy
<Is still my opinion. This pc. was penned w/in this last
year... maybe should have incept. dates... Cheers, Bob
Re: Kole Tang Question
Thanks Bob. I agree that dates on the articles
is a good idea--that would be very helpful. <Will endeavour to
add going forward...> Would you add in Methylene blue to the
freshwater dip, or just pH adjusted freshwater? <I would add
the Methylene Blue... I see you have a follow up question, input
re... will answer there> Thanks again. I can't wait to get
my hands on the new version of CMA--June 3. Andy <Ahh! Have
heard Champion Lighting has it, will be showing this wknd. in
Chicago at IMAC. BobF>
Re: Kole Tang Question Bob,
<Andy> Sorry for the double-post, but I thought of
something that I meant to ask you. I asked whether you would add
Methylene blue to the pH adjusted freshwater, but my more basic
question is "would you add anything to the pH adjusted
water, e.g., Methylene blue, formalin, etc.?" I have bottles
of both Methylene blue and Rid-Ich+ (malachite green and
formalin). <Would be careful re the Malachite (only
"regular" dose)... but yes to the formalin. Please read
http://wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm and the linked files
Re: Kole Tang Question Thank you very
much. I have read the dip articles, but because this question was
so specific to a particular animal I just wanted to be safe. I
get really nervous adding any animal without a 4+ week
quarantine. I'm sure you don't remember, but when I got
back into the hobby about a year ago I was stupid and suffered,
with your help, through ich and all the hassles that it brings, 6
weeks staring at an empty tank, fish dying, etc. At your
suggestion, several month back I did add a Copper Band Butterfly
that I had in QT for only 10 days because it showed signs of
Lymphocystis, and all worked out wonderfully--healthy eater
(including a few Aiptasia that I had on my LR), bright and happy.
I'll stop bugging you now! Cheers, Andy <Always best to be
cautious... rely on your own intuition, choosing ultimately... My
"input" is borne generally of many personal and second
hand experiences; including reading. In the case of Tangs of the
genus Ctenochaetus, it has been my overwhelming experience that
dips/baths are more efficacious than these AND/OR quarantine
Re: Kole Tang Question, Ctenochaetus
acclimation, lack of quarantine Hey
guys (again), <Tom> I read the below on the FAQ today. Why
exactly does Bob recommend not QTing the Kole tang?
<Probability, borne of experience, dictates that much more
damage and loss is likely to occur from doing so than skipping...
dip/bathing instead and placement> Reason being is, as
I've talked about in other emails, that I'm planning on
the purchase of an Atlantic Blue Tang. The last one died in QT,
which was a 20g with a live rock and sponge filter, after a week.
We previously discussed that, and came to the conclusion that the
fish was sick prior to purchase, but I digress. The new tang,
once purchased, will hopefully be 4 to 5 inches instead of the
smaller one I purchased last time. I have hesitations about QTing
this sized fish in a 20g, so naturally this email below caught my
eye. What's the thoughts? Thanks again Thomas <This
species of Acanthurus as well I would skip quarantining... A.
coeruleus is not usually a strong "carrier" of external
communicable parasitic disease... Bob Fenner>
Re: Kole Tang with Fin trouble 7/25/07Hi
Bob and Crew You don't need to post, but I just wanted to follow
up; the Kole did heal by itself, no medication other than rest needed.
<Ahhh> Everyone is now back together (including the little
Rainford's Goby who had an unexpected visitor in QT) and the Blenny
is behaving himself; I just wanted to thank you for your advice.
<Welcome> I try to not over-react to anything I see happening in
the tank (nothing good happens fast...), but it is so hard to know what
is the correct level of response when you see a fish in distress. kb
<Thank you my friend. BobF>
Disease ID on Kole Tang <Cheers, Richard> Hello Bob, I
have been having some type of disease problem with every Kole tang that
I have brought into my store. I have attached some pics of an affected
fish in hopes that you can help me identify the disease. It usually
starts as a brownish or pale colored patch on their side and eventually
spreads around the head area. So far the disease has never spread to
any other fish in the tanks. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Richard <the species specific nature of the pathogen is not a
surprise... we have seen this with butterflies and dwarf angels just
the same. It is not exactly clear from the images what the primary
cause is, but I see a hint and suspect the fishes die with full blown
hemmorhagic septicemia (you see bloody ruptures under the skin or even
open lesions?). If not, then we make look towards complications from
Brooklynella which is all to common in Hawaiian imports. I assume that
this is a central system. My advice would be to stop putting tangs in
this system for 2-4 weeks minimum and ozonate it (or ozonate it
better). At the same time, import just a few more to place into an
off-system QT tank to see if the problem is the shipper or a bug in
your tank/system. Treat the new import in QT with daily formalin (use
Aquarium Products Formalin or "Quick Cure [malachite with
formalin]) daily for 5 to 7 days consecutively. A small daily water
change for that first week from the bottom would be nice too. Stable
temp in qt (2 heaters, 78-80F... no higher). And observation for a
total of 2-4 weeks. This will indicate to us where it is coming from
and how we can treat it. I strongly recommend properly dosed ozone in
commercial systems... there are so many benefits beyond disease
control. And UV is almost useless on central systems (too high flow,
too high organics and particulates, etc... just useless for most).
Ozone with effluent passed over carbon is fool proof. A RedOx
controller running it will be a tremendous investment in the quality
and health of your fishes. Best regards, Anthony>
Worried (about Kole Tang appearance) Mr. F. Had a small melt
down here on Saturday, the temperature in my garage where my hospital
and isolation tanks (both tall 20's) are located went to 90+
degrees, the tanks themselves went to 84+ (the upper limit of the
particular Hagen "on the glass" thermometer used). In the
isolation tank at the was my new Coral Beauty and Cole Tang. Due to my
anxiety and the necessity to play host I was not able to baby sit these
new fish so I threw the dice and introduced them into my 55 gal. show
tank after only a day of quarantine. <Hmm, likely what I would have
done, had I had such presence of mind> The show tank: 55 gal. AGA
(not reef ready) with 45 lb. of new Walt smith Fiji live rock, 40 lb.
of crushed coral substrate. Fluval 304, CPR Backpack IIR (just replaced
AMiracle quad mini, as good as a sea clone) <You're making my
day>, 2 Rio powerheads for circulation (on the 40 watt light
circuit), <Now, definitely> one 40 watt actinic, two 55 watt
power compacts, two False Percula Clowns and two Blue Devil Damsels two
Hermits, five Turbo. Snails. I use the Aquarium Pharm. tap water filter
for make up water and mix-up water (aged one week) for weekly four gal.
changes. The coral Beauty looks great, if I could have only one fish
this is the one. I am worried about the tang. He/She now looks mottled
or scratched, I think it has scraped itself hiding behind the rocks.
Tang has a good appetite, I have seen it eat. Just looks like it danced
with a bus. No "other" sign of disease, no torn fins, no itch
or mucus, Bright alert eyes, the only other thing is it's almost
always hiding, dashes away when it sees me (I'm not taking the
hiding personally, I'm not the best looking fellow but I don't
think I've been scaring away my fish). Any procedure or additive to
help the Kole? <This fish, Ctenochaetus strigosus, is a real tough
survivor type... and I have seen some very "rough" ones in
captivity and the wild... And had many "bad shipments"
totally rally in a few weeks time. If it's still eating fine, do
possibly add some vitamin and iodine solution to its foods, otherwise
just try to be patient... You will likely experience a similar
"rebirth" of this ugly duckling tang. Bob Fenner>
Kole tang update Hi Bob Fenner, Hope everything is going good
with you. Things are pretty good in my tank world. Here is what is
going on and the questions that I have: I had a Kole tang that
developed white "ichy" spots on his fins, no other fish (two
little damsels) were affected. You suggested I lower the spg of the
tank and raise the temp which I began to do (of course this takes
several days). I decided this weekend that there was some maintenance
which needed to be done to the overflow box and tank itself (you know,
small things you want to fix but can't once everything is in
place), and I had the time and lots of extra tanks, so I broke the tank
down to go fallow for a month. The Kole (his name is Ole since it
rhymes) is in a super long, short and wide 20 gallon hospital tank
(he's in the best hospital in town) with a little hang on filter
with carbon and extra powerhead; and the other damsels, shrimp, and
snails are separated accordingly in various tanks throughout the house.
This evening all maintenance will be fixed on the main system and it
will be up and running again with live rock, shrimp and snails, but NO
FISH, in it. All fish are doing great and seem happy. Ole the Kole is
eating like a pig (I am trying to not feed him too much right now since
he is in a not too good - filter wise - system), and he even got a
fresh water dip for 5 min.s. before he went in the hospital. He did
great, even let me pet him for a few minutes while I sat with him. The
spg of his tank is at 1.020 right now. He still has some, but not as
many white specs on him, and he twitches a little every once in a while
and ONLY in the morning - weird huh? <Not weird in the sense of
unusual> (I watched him for many hours this weekend) Is there any
medicine I can use to rid him of this disease completely? <Mmm, I
would lower the specific gravity to 1.015 if it's just Ole... and
leave it at that... no "medicines"> Methylene blue is
completely unavailable in CA as far as I know. <Really? Don't
think so...> And if he still shows signs of these white specs when
my one month fallow period is over, DO NOT put him in the main tank,
right? <Correct> And if he is clear of disease, freshwater dip
him before he goes back in the main tank, right? <Yes> Also,
should I boost his immune system with a vitamin supplement? <Good
idea> He eats mostly off of the few pieces of algae covered live
rock that are in the tank with him, some frozen algae food which mainly
has Spirulina in it (sorry don't remember the name brand, etc.),
and live brine shrimp every few days or so. Does he even need a vitamin
supplement? (I realize that if I treat him with medication then the
carbon and the live rock have to leave the tank. ) <Would help>
Thanks for any input you might have on this matter. Jana's animal
hospital (the dog has an ulcer on her eyeball and is taking medicine as
well), Jana <Take care my friend. Bob Fenner>