Please visit our Sponsors
FAQs about Oculinid/Galaxy Coral Compatibility

Related Articles: Oculinids, Galaxy Corals 'Coral' Compatibility: On Reducing Captive Negative Interactions Cnidarians  by Bob Fenner, ppt. vers: Cnidarian Compatibility: On Reducing Negative Cnidarian Interaction Parts: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,  by Bob Fenner

Related FAQs: Oculinids 1, Oculinids 2, & FAQs on: Oculinid Identification, Oculinid Behavior, Oculinid Selection, Oculinid Systems, Oculinid Feeding, Oculinid Health, Oculinid Reproduction/Propagation,  & Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral PlacementFoods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef CoralsStony Coral Behavior,

Very aggressive stinger... even small specimens are able to "reach" a foot away...

Weird frogspawn coral question... likely burned by a Galaxea neighbour   3/6/08 Good Evening, <Am here now for me> I have scoured this site and the internet for two weeks now with no answer to this puzzling question, although you guys have answered my 10,000 other questions without me even having to ask. Its all here for the taking. <Ah, yes> All comments on my methods/system are welcome. Anyway, back to the problem at hand. I have a frogspawn coral which I purchased three weeks ago and it is losing tentacles. About one tentacle is lost from each of its five polyps each day. <Mmmm, bad> The tentacles constrict at the base and eventually pinch off completely and float away. Otherwise, the polyps look fairly good. They extend each day, close at night, and eat mysis shrimp every other day. Also, the polyps are not receding where they attach to the skeleton. I suspect that this may be a response to the different lighting I have them under, as the colors are becoming richer as the days pass. <... could be> The store used 14000K 175 watt or 150, I forgot) metal halides, with about 7 watts per gallon. I have two 100 watt 6700K screw-in compact fluorescents, which give me 12 watts per gallon. I have used these bulbs on the tank since it was created 14 months ago; I have replaced them once already. I suppose some other background info will help also. The tank is 16 gallons, tiny, but I have failed twice with larger ones. I have about 40 pounds of live rock <! not much room left for water> in there with 3.5 inches of crushed coral substrate. I am using a sulphur based denitrification media in the lower layers of the substrate. <Mmm, this could be...> My protein skimmer is a SeaClone 100, which I have had for years and I like it due to its simplicity. I use no other filters. Parameters are as follows: SG 1.023 Temp 80F pH 8.3 Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 0 never a problem because of the reduction of NO3 <Need to have some...> KH 10 Ca 450 ppm <A bit high...> I do about a 25 percent water change every week with a peristaltic pump to add water at the same time I remove it. I realize this is not as good as removing water then adding, but coral placement does not allow for it. I actually add a 5 gallon bucket of new water made from Oceanic salt mix, but some is removed due to the simultaneous siphoning out of tank water (the 25% I roughly calculated). I do not supplement any trace elements, as I perform such frequent water changes. <Good technique for small volumes> I also do nothing special to keep the parameters as they are. I do top off with RO water which has been remineralized with 10 micron powered aragonite and a dose of "purple-up" from CaribSea. <I would discontinue this immediately> Water flow is medium too low for the frogspawn and is multidirectional. It is placed lower in the tank, about 10 inches from the lights. Other livestock: 1 galaxy coral, rapidly growing, opposite side from the frogspawn <D'oh! Oculinids are very "stingy"... THIS is most likely the cause of trouble here> 1 Kenya tree, also growing, <Secondarily allelopathogenic...> 1 orange Fungia, 2 inches across, doing great on the sand bed. various mushrooms, Zoanthids, a little anthelia 1 green banded goby 1 Firefish 1 yellowtail damsel 1 brittle star snails and crabs All of these are long term inhabitants having been in the tank longer than 9 months (except the frogspawn). None of the corals have direct contact with each other via sweeper tentacles. Any suggestions, comments, and criticism is welcomed, as I want to solve the disappearing tentacle problem. Best Regards, Ken <Oh, I see by your titling below you have some life-science backgd.. There are a few possibilities, sources of potential loss of vitality that you hint at... But definitely read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Galaxea VS. Tridacnid  1/8/06 Hey! <'¦is for horses. Just kidding, couldn't resist. Hello.> I recently received a Galaxea (Oculinid) as a package deal on a piece of live rock with a clam (T. Maxima, gorgeous). <Oh yes.> They are both attached to the same large piece of rock. They are both currently doing fine. But, I was surprised the first time the Galaxea busted out with its sweepers. Those are long sweeps! <Oh yeah, have seen them personally at 10 to 12 inches. And very potent I might add.> Anyway, they are not touching the clam at this point, but if the coral continues to do well I am concerned that it might touch the clam in the future. Will the clam be affected? <Generally the sweepers are extended at night when the clam is closed so it should not be too much of a problem. However yes if the sweepers do come in contact with the clam (the mantle most likely) this could cause some mantle recession, which yes is very bad for a clam which needs the mantle for photosynthesis. Keep an eye out.> Do these kids need to be sent to different areas of the classroom? <Maybe, just keep a close watch as I mentioned.> Thanks for your help and for fighting the good fight! <Thank you for the encouragement.> Andy <Adam J.>

Coral Aggression: Galaxea 1/7/04 Brant here again, <cheers> I really appreciate having such an informative site.  I wanted to  mention in reference to my last e-mail about white band that I also got  a Galaxea at the same time.  I placed it on the top of a rock in the  center of the aquarium with some distance between corals.   <grumble, grumble... would rather have heard it was placed properly in a QT tank first for 4+ weeks. We might not be having this exchange if so <G>> The Stylophora  is only 3-4 inches away and is somewhat 'downstream' from the Galaxea.    <Yikes! The Stylo is soon to be Galaxy coral food> I've read a lot about sweeper tentacles <eventually 10" long from Galaxea... they are one of the worst> and was wondering if this had anything  to do with my Stylophora problem.   <very easily so> My salt level is low also, at about  1.019. <do get this up to 1.023-1.025 for corals> Besides the Stylophora problem, I was wondering if I could/should place my  Galaxea directly on the floor of the tank at the farthest distance from everything else?   <perhaps... they are one of the most aggressive corals in the trade> Your help is greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Chris Brant <best of luck, Anthony>

Become a Sponsor Features:
Daily FAQs FW Daily FAQs SW Pix of the Day FW Pix of the Day New On WWM
Helpful Links Hobbyist Forum Calendars Admin Index Cover Images
Featured Sponsors: