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FAQs on Marine Algae Identification 14
Related Articles: Avoiding
Algae Problems in Marine System,
Algae Control, Marine
Maintenance, Nutrient Control and Export,
Marine Scavengers, Snails,
Hermit Crabs,
Mithrax/Emerald
Green Crabs, Sea Urchins, Blennies,
Algae Filters, Ctenochaetus/Bristle
Mouth Tangs, Zebrasoma/Sailfin Tangs, Skimmers,
Skimmer Selection, Marine
Algae, Coralline
Algae, Green Algae, Brown
Algae, Blue-Green
"Algae"/(Cyanobacteria), Diatoms,
Brown Algae,
Related FAQs: Marine Algae ID 1, Marine
Algae ID 2, Marine Algae ID 3,
Marine Algae ID 4,
Marine Algae ID 5,
Marine Algae ID 6, Marine
Algae ID 7, Marine
Algae ID 8, Marine Algae ID 9,
Marine Algae ID 10,
Marine Algae ID 11,
Marine Algae ID 12,
Marine Algae ID 13,
Marine Algae ID 15,
Marine Algae ID 16,
Marine Algae ID 17,
Marine Algae ID 18,
Marine Algae ID 19,
Marine Algae ID 20,
Marine Algae ID 21,
Marine Algae ID 22, &
Marine Algae Control FAQs
2,
Marine Algaecide Use, Nutrient
Limitation, Marine Algae Eaters, Culturing
Macro-Algae; Controlling: BGA/Cyano,
Red/Encrusting Algae, Green
Algae, Brown/Diatom Algae,
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Please identify 3/16/2007
Good day all:
<Paul>
Can you identify this for me. I noticed it as a tiny protrusion from
the rockwork around four months ago. It has grown at a good pace. It
appears to be some kind of hard tube worm but I have yet to see anything
like it in my reef before.
<Is a green algae... genus Neomeris...>
Thanks in advance.
Paul
Boynton Bch, FL
<Mmm, have been diving off your coast... a very nice town as well. Bob
Fenner> |
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Algae ID 3/16/2007
Hello again, I've had this on your forum for a while now and cannot
seem to get a positive ID. This algae recently started to "bloom", not
completely covering rocks but enough to get me worried. It seems to
prefer the walls of the tank (acrylic) and sticks to anything that is
not smooth (coralline algae, diatom). It is dark green, thinner than
Chaetomorpha, and branches off close to the point of growth (what I mean
is, it branches off slightly higher than the point of origin). I've had
a lot of things going on lately that may be contributing to this, first
of all I have been trying to raise Berghia nudibranchs in a 10 gallon in
my basement.
<Raise these in small cups... if doing so commercially...>
I have been pulling rocks from my 90 gallon to feed the Berghia, and
in turn am losing 2 filters (my rock and Aiptasia). My water parameters
have not changed since all of this started, ammonia 0, nitrite 0,
nitrate 2, phosphate 0, calcium 400, alk 10 DKH, Ph 8.3, temp (has
varied) 80-82.5. I should mention this is accompanied by
Cyanobacteria, not a terrible outbreak, just there. I really hope you
can help me out with an ID so that I know what I'm dealing with and know
how to fix it. I researched everywhere I can think of and can't find an
answer, please help. Thank you, Ryan. I've tried to copy and paste the
image, hopefully it's not to large.
<Need to get/use a microscope... to determine if this is indeed a
thallophyte or an embryophyte... Might be an algae or a true/vascular
plant... Does it have obvious organelles? BobF> |
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Re: Algae ID – 03/18/07
Thanks for the reply, we just keep running into each other. After finding
out what organelles are I did the best with what I had to answer the
question. I used a magnifying glass and a flashlight, which let me see into the
algae/plant and it does appear to have organelles. Unfortunately I do not have
or have access to a microscope, but maybe the fact that it has organelles can
help with an ID. Thanks again, Ryan.
<Is likely a vascular/true plant then... Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marinvind1.htm
The second to last tray... We really need a consummate piece on algal and
embryophyte Id...
The Id FAQs files, and bits on True marine plants. Bob Fenner> |
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Padina SP and the Brown Fuzz - 03/06/07
Well, the hair algae died !!!! Can I Get A WOOHOO. It had me
worried. You were likely right on the phosphates Bob... they were zero
because the hair was consuming them. I purchased a poly filter and a few
days later it was all but gone.
<Congrats>
I know I had at least 4 small fish die that I couldn't find to pull out
so I assume that was the source.
<Ah, likely so>
Anyhow to the point.
Early on in my 1st email to you guys, you identified Padina SP for me
since I couldn't locate it in the coral section (duh). I have a follow
up question, as it appears to be spreading pretty good.
Is the furry brown algae that grows up tight and around it, part of it,
or is this some other monster I am going to have to deal with.
Dan
<Is another algae type... likely a BGA... it too should go with time
(try adding a bit more iodine supplement...). Nice patch of Ulva! BobF>
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Green algae problem... looks green... BGA...
but too palatable to be so 2/28/07
Greetings,
<Howdy>
I currently have a problem with green algae. I'm not really sure what
it is. It is approximately 4cm in height, single stranded, bright
green, flows in the current and is not easily removed by hand. I'm
pretty sure from looking at the photos on your site that it isn't BGA.
<I wouldn't be so sure... do you have a microscope?>
The algae is covering my glass, substrate and rock. My tank is a 100
gallon tank with (2) 54 watt T5's (10000 and a 460 blue), 150lbs live
rock, 100lbs CaribSea aragonite, 2 maxi-jet (230 gph), Magnum Deluxe Pro
(for my carbon 350gph), Remora Pro Skimmer (mag 3, 300gph). The tank
has been up for only 3 months. I currently have a lawnmower blenny, 25
scarlet reef crabs, 5 blue-legged hermit crabs and a chocolate chip
starfish. The lawnmower blenny and crabs love the algae but can't keep
up.
<Oh! This is a good clue... They would not likely eat it period if it
were Cyanobacterial>
My water tests show salinity 1.023, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0,
phos 0, calcium 380, temp 77.8, alk 8 dKH, and ph 8.3. I'm running a RO
with add on DI unit with a house water softener. I cut the light hours
down to 6 per day. Is my lighting to much for a 100 gallon FOWLR tank?
<Mmm, nope>
I can't see any other reason for the growth besides the lighting since
all of my water tests are good.
<"Because it can"... a lack of competitors, paucity of predators... and
your nutrient readings are likely low... because the algae is rapidly
taking up what is available>
The only thing I'm currently feeding the tank is a little meat for the
CC starfish, which he eats all of everyone else is eating algae. Any
help or algae identification is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jayson
<Mmm, not able to ID over the Net... w/o "very" close up (microscopic)
pix, showing a lack of nuclei, organelles... But, do know what avenues
to consider in control here... Please read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
and the linked files above... A refugium, DSB, RDP lighted macroalgae...
BobF> |
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Livestock question ID Suspect Caulerpa
taxifolia no Photo 2/20/07
Hello crew
<Hello again Wayne! Mich here.>
Had a quick question on the Caulerpa that's exploded in my
refugium. Pic attached.
<I don't know why, but I can't see the picture. The webmail is showing
there is an attachment and the size is 80 kb, which seems
appropriate. However, I'm not seeing an attachment or a photo, I'm not
sure what the source of the problem, but other crew members are also
unable to view any photo/attachment.> <<I couldn't either... RMF...
troubles with our webmail server... which are hopefully being
corrected>>
I've tried to only keep Chaetomorpha because I didn't like to risk of
spreading Caulerpa into my display.
<Wise in my opinion.>
Is this Caulerpa taxifolia? If yes, is there risk of this spreading
into my display? In your opinion should I keep or trash?
<If there is a possibility that it is Caulerpa taxifolia, I would remove
it. The Caulerpa species as a whole can be quite noxious and
aggressive. Once established, it can be quite difficult to remove. I
would not take the risk especially as you already have the more
desirable Chaetomorpha.>
If not Taxifolia, please help me ID. Is it a keeper?
<Sorry. I can't help you here without a photo.>
Thanks for your help!
<Anytime, -Mich>
Wayne |
Re: Livestock question ID Suspect Caulerpa
taxifolia no Photo 2/20/07
Thanks Mich
<You're quite welcome.>
Don't worry about the pic...I removed the suspected C taxifolia. After
doing more research I figured better safe than sorry.
<I think you are wise here my friend.>
Thanks again.
<Always a pleasure. -Mich>
Wayne |
Mysterious Green Algae... BGAs -
02/17/2007
Hello
<Hello there... next time... images/files no larger than a few hundred
Kbytes... you've crashed our server... sigh... Does anyone read
instructions?>
I have had this green hair like algae before and it rapidly overtook the
entire tank on all the surfaces except the glass. Only after extreme
measures of basically starting over from scratch was I able to remove
it. There is also a pick of a reddish algae growing on the feelers of
the crabs
that has started to grow recently.
<These are all blue-greens, Cyanobacteria... see WWM re nutrient
limitation, competition, other stated means for control. Bob Fenner>
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Re: Mysterious Green Algae - 02/17/2007
Hello
And my apologies for the image size I forgot to check that before firing
off that email. Thank you for your help on identifying the issue! :)
Jeremy
<Ahh, thank you for coming forward, explaining. BobF> |
Gold algae plague driving me mad –
03/17/07
Dear WWM-crew,
<<Goede dag, Arno>>
Some 2+ years ago I started a coral propagation system under light
circumstances I've never tried before.
<<Really?...ok>>
The system consists of 3 tank layers and a sump. Total volume: app.
1000 liters,
Water circulation: app. 5000 l/h in the system.
<<Hmm…a bit more water flow would likely be of benefit>>
Each layer has some 4000-7000 l/h extra.
<<Ahh, okay…very good>>
Skimmer: Bubble King 300 (oversized in view of enlarging the system).
<<Very nice>>
Life rock: app 100 kg.s. Fish: 10 small fish, normally fed.
<<And a beneficial nutrient source for your corals…>>
Proper cooling (never higher than 27 C)
<<Excellent>>
Illumination:
-2 years: sunlight through roof and doors
-upper tank: 2x MH 150W- no gold algae
-2nd/3rd tank: each 8x T5 39W- many gold algae
<<Mmm…since these are “stacked” tanks, it would seem to suggest your
problem may be attributable in part to “inadequate” lighting intensity>>
-sump: no illumination
Since 4 months no more sunlight through the roof. Nevertheless the
algae keep coming back and damage the corals severely.
<<A problem indeed>>
For a good understanding:
To the eye gold algae look similar to certain dinoflagellates, but under
a microscope the latter move and gold algae don't.
<<Hmm…looking at the photos you supplied, I think what you have here is
a blue-green alga…aka – Cyanobacteria>>
Countermeasures:
-removing the algae regularly...
<<Do siphon carefully as it can easily be spread through the system when
disturbed>>
-less daylight.
<<But not to the detriment of the corals>>
-previously regular 10% water changes; later hardly any as it seemed to
stimulate growth.
<<Indeed, I have noted this phenomenon before myself>>
-no longer additives of trace-elements.
<<Ok>>
-higher Ca, KH and pH
<<A good move>>
-careful daily dosing of hydrogen peroxide
<<Is a powerful sanitizer/oxidizer…with “careful” being the operative
word>>
Attached you'll find some (microscope) photographs to get a good
visional idea.
It's driving me mad!
Does anyone have other smart ideas? I'd be very grateful!
<<Well Arno, as stated I believe you have a form of
Cyanobacteria. These can be VERY difficult to eradicate as they seem to
have the nasty ability to produce their own nutrients. Very strong
water flow seems to help, as does boosting alkalinity and pH as you have
begun to do. I think you do need to continue water changes as well, but
consider doing a 20%-25% change every 4-5 weeks with “well aged”
saltwater. I would even add a cup or two of system water to this change
water a week before use to get some microbial activity going. And
definitely have a read here (and among the many links at the top of the
page) for more ideas re controlling this troublesome organism: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
>> <I agree with your ID Eric. RMF>
Thanks,
gr's
Arno
The Netherlands
<<A pleasure to assist. Eric Russell, South Carolina, USA…and who also
lived for three years in a small village just outside Amersfoort in the
Netherlands…about three decades ago now…>> |
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Re: Gold Algae Plague Driving Me Mad – 03/19/07
Hi Eric,
<<Greetings Arno>>
Thanks for your quick re.
<<Quite welcome>>
As for the algae/Cyanobacteria:
So far all the Cyanobacteria I viewed microscopically looked long-stretched,
like clusters of short threads... (just like the pics on:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm).
The ones I sent you pictures of, do not cluster and are rather round/oval. I
compared them to other microscope pic's of dinoflagellates and gold algae and
they look astonishingly similar. So I'm still somewhat doubtful if you are
right about it being Cyanobacteria.
<<Well Arno I am certainly no expert on Cyanobacteria, but I do believe there
are many strains of such “blue-green” alga. What tips me in this direction is
mainly the appearance of the algae as it covers and smothers your corals (as in
one of the pics you sent). The “slimy” appearance/texture and embedded/escaping
gas bubbles are classic signs of Cyanobacteria>>
What do mean by "inadequate" lighting intensity? The problem tanks have a water
column of only 25 cm and are illuminated by 8 T5-tubes of 39 W. Thus
establishing some 1.65 watts/litre.
<<Understood...but even so, this is no where near as intense as a pair of 150w
metal halide fixtures like you have over the un-infected tank. Thus, I am
suggesting this strain of alga may be inhibited by very high light intensity>>
What do you mean by "well aged saltwater"? Older water from another aq.system
(I have plenty of that) or freshly made water well aerated for several days?
<<The latter...though I prefer to “age” freshly made saltwater for a couple
weeks to ensure all chemical processes are completed and to render the water
less “harsh”>>
All that's mentioned in
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm was already known to me and it
does not give me any handle...
<<I see... Perhaps reading among the associated links will render a clue>>
The only thing I can think of and which I haven't tried yet, is increasing the
amount of live rock, thus 'disturbing' the balance. What do you think?
<<This may prove helpful, especially if you can introduce/maintain enough biota
to “out compete” the algae for its nutrients. You might also consider changing
brands of salt mix. Perhaps something in your mix is “feeding” the
problem. And I do think increasing light intensity on the affected tanks is
worth a try, if possible>>
Groetjes,
Arno
<<Be chatting, Eric Russell>>
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