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FAQs about Marine Macro-Algae
Health/Disease/Pests/Predators Related Articles: Marine Algae, Algae
Can Be Your Friend, Refugiums, Avoiding
Algae Problems in Marine System,
Algae Control, Marine
Maintenance, Nutrient Control and Export,
Marine Scavengers, Snails,
Hermit Crabs,
Mithrax/Emerald
Green Crabs, Sea Urchins, Blennies,
Algae Filters, Ctenochaetus/Bristle
Mouth Tangs, Zebrasoma/Sailfin Tangs, Skimmers,
Skimmer Selection, Marine
Algae, Coralline
Algae, Green Algae, Brown
Algae, Blue-Green
"Algae"/(Cyanobacteria), Diatoms,
Brown Algae,
Related FAQs: Marine
(Macro) Algae 1, Marine
(Macro) Algae 2, Marine
(Macro) Algae 3, Marine (Macro) Algae 4,
Marine (Macro) Algae 5,
Rationale, Identification,
Selection/Compatibility/Control,
Systems, Lighting, Nutrition,
Culture Algae Use in Refugiums,
Coralline Algae: Use in Marine Aquariums, Marine Algae ID 1, Marine
Algae ID 2, Marine Algae Control FAQs II,
Marine Algaecide Use, Nutrient
Limitation, Marine Algae Eaters, Culturing
Macro-Algae; Controlling: BGA/Cyano,
Red/Encrusting Algae, Green
Algae, Brown/Diatom Algae,
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The Great Chaetomorpha Caper (What Killed His Chaeto?) - 03/29/2006
Thanks for taking my email.
<Our pleasure! Scott . with you today!>
I have a six week old 75 gal eventual reef tank, 80# LR with DSB, now
completely cycled. Ammonia and Nitrite 0, Nitrate <5. In the sump I have a
separate 8 gal refugium fed by a 1/2in PVC branch off my main overflow
drain.
<Sounds nice!>
Soon after the tank cycled--- about three weeks ago--- I added Chaeto to the
refugium with very low flow and it grew like gangbusters. Water parameters
have been essentially stable throughout. Then (reading somewhere that Chaeto
should "tumble") I dramatically increased the refugium flow. Two or three
days later there was a diatom bloom, and then--- while scratching my head---
I noticed the Chaeto had wilted into a rotting mushy ball. I tossed it in
the garbage and the diatoms soon disappeared. I surmise the Chaeto released
a bolus of nutrients when it died, thus feeding the diatoms.
<A very good guess, IMO>
Any idea what killed my Chaeto? Besides increasing refugium flow, the only
other thing I can think of is that, the week before this happened, I raised
my dKH from 9 to 10--- over about 4-5 evenings with B-Ionic #1. Would
appreciate any input.
Russell in Louisville, KY.
<Hi Russell. Sounds like you were really on top of things. However,
Chaetomorpha is like any other algae in that it can and does crash when
something is not to its liking. Hard to say what did it in. I doubt that the
increasing dKH is what killed off your Chaeto. Contrary to what you may have
heard, I've always kept this macroalgae in systems with a gentle current.
Other macroalgae, such as Gracilaria, DO like to have a tumbling motion.
Perhaps the strong water motion damaged some of the woven masses of the
algae, which lead to a crash. Could have even been a combination of a few
little things. I'd try a gain, but keep the flow moderate, and try to keep
excessive amounts of detritus and other algae out of the Chaetomorpha
"matrix" to ensure maximum growth and health. Hang in there! Regards, Scott
F.>
What Killed My Chaeto? Bob's go... multiple msg. sends? -
03/29/2006
Thanks for taking my email.
<Thanks for writing>
I have a six week old 75 gal eventual reef tank, 80# LR with DSB, now
completely cycled. Ammonia and Nitrite 0, Nitrate <5. In the sump I have a
separate 8 gal refugium fed by a 1/2in PVC branch off my main overflow
drain.
Soon after the tank cycled--- about three weeks ago--- I added Chaeto to the
refugium with very low flow and it grew like gangbusters. Water parameters
have been essentially stable throughout. Then (reading somewhere that Chaeto
should "tumble") I dramatically increased the refugium flow.
<Mmm... doesn't really need to have vigorous circulation>
Two or three days later there was a diatom bloom, and then--- while
scratching my head--- I noticed the Chaeto had wilted
into a rotting mushy ball. I tossed it in the garbage and the diatoms soon
disappeared. I surmise the Chaeto released a bolus of nutrients when it
died, thus feeding the diatoms.
<Good theory... how would we test?>
Any idea what killed my Chaeto?
<Likely the tumbling>
Besides increasing refugium flow, the only other thing I can think of is
that, the week before this happened,
I raised my dKH from 9 to 10--- over about 4-5 evenings with B-Ionic #1.
Would appreciate any input.
Russell in Louisville, KY.
<Could have been mal-affected by other changes... in nutrient availability,
the cycling in of new competitive, predatory organisms... I would not be
dissuaded from trying again in a few weeks to months (sans the tumbling).
Bob Fenner in Hawai'i, down with the NELHA crowd, including some old friends
who are involved in macrophyte culture... that do use tumbling... but in
large settings, complete, axenic...>
Quarantine...Macroalgae 6/5/06
Hi Crew,
<Hello Jeff>
I just purchased some macroalgae for my refugium. How should I quarantine it so
nothing that came home with it will infect my system?
<How comfortable do you feel with your dealer?> If uneasy, quarantine the same
as you would for fish. In most cases dealers usually keep macro in separate
tanks where no fish are present. If all his tanks are centrally filtered, then
we are back to the top. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks,
<You're welcome>
Jeff
Golden Brown Algae in Chaetomorpha 5/15/06
Dear Crew,
<<Hello>>
I am using Chaetomorpha between my refugium baffles as a macro algae filter. A
golden-brown algae with fine strands has become enmeshed in the Chaetomorpha.
<<Likely a blue-green algae/Cyano bacteria>>
Rinsing and cleaning the Chaetomorpha periodically with marine water helps but
the golden brown algae keeps returning. What can I do to ensure that the
Chaetomorpha and not the golden-brown algae thrives?
<<Mmm, if the macro algae is not being malaffected I wouldn't be concerned. The
Cyano is obviously feeding off of something in your system>>
I have a 75-gallon reef aquarium with a 29-gallon downstream refugium. The
Chaetomorpha is kept in a space between the refugium baffles which is 5" wide x
12" long x 15" deep. The Chaetomorpha culture is 3-inches in depth and kept
suspended with a strong up flow powered by an Iwaki MD-30RXT pump. A mesh
screen keeps the macro-algae from the pump compartment. Over this relatively
small 5"x12" surface area, I've placed a Jalli compact fluorescent fixture for
reverse daylight photosynthesis (RDP). The fixture's 13-watt "daylight" bulb is
switched on by a timer for 8 hours each night. I can replace the daylight bulb
with an actinic bulb, replace the 13-watt fixture with an 18-watt fixture and
change the photoperiod. Which steps do you think will help the Chaetomorpha in
its battle with micro-algae?
<<The lighting is not likely affect the Cyano, but for the health of the macro
algae definitely keep a "daylight" bulb, and if you think growth is slow, up the
wattage. I would also try siphoning out the accumulated "gunk" from the bottom
of the baffle/Chaetomorpha chamber...the macro algae is functioning like a
mechanical filter and probably trapping a lot of detritus which may be spurring
the Cyano>>
Thanks very much.
Regards,
Paul
<<Cheers, EricR>>
Zoanthids and algae with air bubbles
Howdy Bob and crew! Thanks in advance for the fantastic site and all the
time you guys put into helping people like me. ;)
First off, my water: SG: 1.0245, PH: 8.2, Calc: ~430, dKH: 11 Alk: ~3 (I
think, I can't recall exactly honestly), Nitrates: 0, Nitrites: 0,
Ammonia: 0, Phosphates: 0.0-0.1, Temp: 79.4-80.2 (throughout the
day).
It is a 70 gallon tank (36 x 18 x 25; was limited by width where it was
installed and figure the extra water volume would be a good thing) and
currently I'm doing 20 gallon changes once a month with top off water
from evaporation as needed (sometimes just a little every day; I top off
in the sump). Large wet/dry (for a 150g system), with built-in skimmer
(from ProClear), Eheim 700g/hr pump, 60lbs live sand (3-4" DSB), 90lbs
premium live rock (gorgeous rock, 60lbs came out of a 4 year old 400gal
reef that was taken apart and sold in pieces; all was cured and
completely covered on coralline). 150w Ebo/Jager heater (in sump) and
lastly the CurrentUSA Orbit 36" 2x96w PC fixture (10,000 and 6,700).
<< All sounds good, but the lighting seems a little low. >>
Livestock: 2 Ocellaris Clowns, 1 Rainford Goby, 1 Scooter Blenny, 3
Emerald Crabs, 1 Sally Lightfoot Crab, 2 Fire Shrimp, 8 or so Snails and
2 sand-sifting Starfish, some Bubble Caulerpa racemosa and Caulerpa
mexicana.
*whew!*
Ok, my two questions!
1) I've got some Zoanthids (brown
Button Polyps specifically, not
sure on the exact name). They came attached to a nice piece of live rock
but I've noticed some brown "sticks" protruding from the rock, almost
pushing up the polyps. Tonight I observed what I thought to be tentacles
coming out of the ends of the sticks (looked like 2 each). Could these
be some form of worm? << Very good possibility. If so, I'll say
they are beneficial. >> They are very thin, probably <1mm. I did not
notice them originally when I brought the specimen home (they could've
been there, I just didn't notice), but sine they've become more
"prominent" the polyps seem to but suffering some; losing color and
some
are not quite opened all the way (though most are and are responding
well to target feeding with a turkey baster). Just not sure what to do
with these brown sticks!
<< I'd leave them be. If the polyps
are large enough to cut, you could always propagate them onto other rocks.
>>
2) I've got some hair algae in a few
places (nothing overwhelming,
just two parts on two pieces of rock). My Rainford Goby and my Scooter
Blenny seem to enjoy nibbling on it ( as do the Emerald Crabs, and as it
wasn't much I just leave it alone. The Goby and Blenny primarily eat
Emerald Entre and whatever 'pods are living in the Caulerpa (they police
it pretty often; especially the Rainford). Actually, the Blenny kind of
nibbles everywhere; sand, rocks, frozen food. He seems very happy and
well fed; both the Blenny and the Goby have noticeable belly's, I hope
that's a good thing! If not, I have fat fish. ;)
The question about the algae: It seems to be fairly consistently covered
in small air bubbles (as is the Caulerpa actually). I figured it was
either CO2 or O2, but was unsure of it and if it was something to be
concerned about. I do have good circulation/aeration, but as far as I
can tell it's not bubbles from that.
<< It's nothing to be overly concerned with, but usually the bubbles on
algae is seen in unhealthy tanks. I'd watch the water motion and
nutrient levels. >>
Thanks in advance for all your time! :-)
~Jeff
<< Blundell >>
Ich, Macroalgae and medication 11/12/04
Hello again to the WWM guru! <Hardly a guru, but glad to help!>
I wanted to get some further input on the ammonia situation in the OT tank.
Unfortunately the Flame and neon goby are covered with
ich now. The LFS rep & I discussed the constant spikes despite my using cycled
water and daily WCs. Guess what we figured out...I have been placing a piece of
LR in there, which naturally had some die off (yes, it was newer rock, duh!!).
<Yup. That will do it.>
Now the thing is this, I put them quickly into the fuge (which has been
unplugged from the main tank), and got a "reef safe" ich
treatment to treat them while there. <The problem with these treatments is that
they are most often made reef safe by recommending such a low dose that they
aren't effective.>
Here's the big question...wouldn't you know, there's a shipment of
Macroalgae on the way and I 'm not sure if its safe to put them in the fuge
while the ich treatment is proceeding. I'd place the algae in my main tank, but
the hermits would likely have a heyday with them! What would you suggest? <I
would suggest having passing on the macros or letting someone else hold them for
you. I also suggest that all of the rock that will be used for a display be
cycled BEFORE adding any livestock. Your sick livestock should be treated in a
separate tank, and any future additions should be quarantined. Best
Regards. AdamC.> Allegra in SD
Dying Chaetomorpha... needs more water flow? 1/29/05
Hey guys. Just a quickie for ya, if you don't mind. I have an upstream refugium with a few bundles of
Chaeto, and for some reason it is turning white and dying off.
<the most common reason is a lack of water flow. Chaeto is very hardy with regard for lighting (5 watts per gallon will do)... but it is very needy for water flow so strong that it stays tumbling>
I run a system with a fairly high nutrient load, since it is a softie tank, so I am a bit confused as to the issue here. I have a 10K regular wattage
fluorescent bulb, run opposite of my display tank. Is it a possibility that Iron is depleted too rapidly in my system?
<not likely the problem here>
I dose b-ionic daily, and it lists iron as one of the trace elements... but I am wondering if I need to supplement further. At any rate, I though
Chaetomorpha was not an algae that dies off as it has been, so I am a bit confused.
<correct... it is quite hardy and not prone to events of sexual die-offs... particularly if/when you have been harvesting it regularly>
Any speculations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
<this is a common question and problem... most always a lack of water flow. Apply enough to make the Chaeto ball tumble. Anthony>
Botryocladia Predators
Hello.
<Hey, Mike G here>
I recently purchased a red grape macro
(Botryocladia sp.) and would like to know if there are
snails that will eat algae, but not touch my red grape
macro.
<An astonishing array of herbivorous marine life will consume Botryocladia
species macroalgae, I am sorry to inform you. I would think it would be consumed
soon after you began to fill your tank.>
Also, would a lawnmower blenny eat the red grape macro?
<I would think so.>
Chaetomorpha help
The problem/questions:
I'm having a problem with Chaetomorpha slowly dying. Small sections are turning from dark green to clear and those clear sections eventually go limp
and dissolve or break away. I have tried placing the colonies at different heights within the tanks but with no improvement. Gracilaria in this same
system is growing rapidly. Ochtodes is doing well but growing slowly. Micro algae exists, but is kept under control by snails and other tiny
invert grazers to the point where I no longer need to clean the glass. The macro
Algaes are separated by a reasonable distance, but is it possible
these are conducting some sort of chemical warfare?
<Yes>
I chose these varieties because I believe they are less noxious then most. What is your opinion of
chelated Iron in a marine system?
<Generally ferrous matter is not rate limited in marine systems, but it does little possible harm to add it>
I have heard anything from definitely not to it's a requirement of macro algae. I have started adding Kent Marine
Iron supplement for the past month, but that doesn't seem to make a difference one way or the other so far.
The setup:
The system is 3 months old consisting of a display and refugium with several
types of macro algae. It is currently fishless but has two L. debelius and a good assortment of micro-fauna. Both tanks use compact fluorescent lighting
- ~4w/gal in the display and ~5w/gal in the 'fuge. The lights are on 10 hours in the display and 18 hours in the 'fuge on a reverse schedule.
Everything is growing well except the Chaetomorpha. There is a fist sized colony in the display directly in the path of one of the returns; it tumbles
freely. The second colony in the 'fuge is much large and is stationary with moderate water flow; it rests on a 2" bed of Kent
Bio-Sediment.
Water parameters:
Temp: 80-82F
Specific Grav: 1.022-23
pH: 8.2
KH: 110-160 mg/L
Calcium: 440-520 mg/L
<This is a bit high... I would let drop to about 400 ppm>
Ammonia: undetectable
Nitrate: undetectable
Nitrate: ~5 mg/L
Phosphate: undetectable
Silicate: undetectable
Free Iron: undetectable
Chelated Iron: 0.1-0.25 mg/L
<I strongly suspect that the Chaetomorpha is indeed being "deselected" for biologically in your system... and would either move it to some other separate system, or let it go. Bob Fenner> Aiptasia infestation & quarantine question
Dear Crew,
<Hi Paul, MacL here with you this fine and lovely day.>
Last week, I obtained a half-pound of live Gracilaria parvispora (Ogo) from a
dealer in Hawaii. I specifically asked the dealer if I needed to quarantine the
Ogo before adding it to my downstream marine refugium. His emailed reply was no.
<First and foremost, quarantine everything!>
Upon adding the Ogo to my refugium, I noticed a few dead amphipods. A few days
later, I discovered three 1-inch Aiptasia specimens attached to the glass and to
a clump of Ogo. I've never had Aiptasia in my tanks before. After spending all
night throwing out everything in my refugium including live rock, quarantining
the Ogo in a bucket after the fact, sanitizing my refugium and hoping that the
Aiptasia hasn't made it to the main tank, are there any other precautions I
should take?
<You should be aware that lots of people use Aiptasia in refugiums for nutrient
export. On the other hand its possible that this dealer was unaware that he had
Aiptasia in his Ogo. Most people are going to say that you don't have to
quarantine grasses etc before you put them in your tank because usually they
come out of a situation where they've been used for nutrient export.>
Regarding the dealer, should I simply warn him to check his Ogo tanks for
Aiptasia or should I also demand my money back? What is customary?
<I might email him and tell him that you ended up having to put the Ogo in
quarantine because you found some Aiptasia in it and you didn't want to chance
having that go into your tank. I'm sure he didn't mean you any harm, but if you
feel very strongly about it you might see if he's willing to give your money
back or perhaps you two can come to a compromise. You'll need to treat the Ogo
in quarantine to remove the Aiptasia from what's there.> Aiptasia Infestation
Dear Crew,
<Hi Paul, MacL here with you again today.>
(1) If Aiptasia is used in refugiums for nutrient export, how does one prevent the
Aiptasia from contaminating the main aquarium?
<The people I know who are using it in this manner are keeping in enclosed in
their sumps. So far they are telling me that they are not having it move. I personally wouldn't like to take the chance. One person I know who is cultivating it in their refugium has a second tank with softies that contains peppermint shrimps and
copperband butterflies in the line before his main tank, so he controls them that way.>
(2) Is it common for growers of Gracilaria parvispora to culture it in tanks with amphipods and other marine creatures, such as
Aiptasia?
<With pods, definitely. With Aiptasia, probably not. But there are many people who don't view
Gracilaria the way that others do. To them its a nuisance. This is something that is changing as more people begin to use it in their refugiums.>
(3) Are you aware of any suppliers of live Gracilaria parvispora and Chaetomorpha linum within the 48 states? (I live in Colorado.)
<Honestly no I'm not unless Inland Aquatics has it. However, I do know that there are lots of people trading it on lots of websites. One with people close to your area would be
www.reeffrontiers.com. They have a lot of people based in the western United States who are using
Chaetomorpha.>
Thanks very much.
<Its been lovely to talk with you Paul, if we can be of any further assistance please let us know. MacL>
Aiptasia in the Chaetomorpha - 09/11/2005
Good morning fine folks! Hope you're having a nice relaxing weekend.
<More or less, yes. Thanks. Hope you've had a good one, too.>
I received some Chaetomorpha from a fellow aquarist a couple of days ago
through the mail. It was very compacted but otherwise looked nice and
green and healthy.
<Nifty.>
I put some of it in my 20 GAL holding tank and the rest in my "in tank
refugium" in the main tank. The refugium is nothing more than a box
made of egg crate and wrapped in window screen to contain the algae and
keep the Yellow Tang out.
<So far, so good....>
Tonight as I was feeding the tank, I noticed something sticking out of
the Chaeto.
<I'm hearing the "Jaws" theme starting, here....>
Upon closer inspection, there seem to be MANY Aiptasia living in it.
<Insert hysterical scream>
I thought they would only be introduced via Live Rock.
<Anything they can grow on can introduce them.>
Could you please take a minute and look at the pictures and tell me if I
have the ID correct? Is it Aiptasia?
<Yes sir.>
If so, I'll just throw the Chaeto out so as to make sure it does not get
into the main tank.
<I would probably store it in your separate/quarantine system and kill
the little guys with Kalkwasser injection. Either way, good to get 'em
out of your tank.>
Yet another "plug" for quarantining EVERYTHING wet that goes in your
tank.
<Yes, agreed.>
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/aip3.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/aip2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/aip1.jpg
As always, THANK YOU for your time and all that you do! Still hoping to
get enough experience and confidence to be able to volunteer my time to
your site someday.
<Hey, gain that confidence quick! (grin)>
Thank you,
Tom (The Tool Man)
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Halimeda Algae
I have a 55 Reef tank setup that has been up for 4 Mo. now with 80-90 lbs of
live rock from a tank that was up over a year. DSB 4+" tons of pink and
dark purple algae etc. 260 watts of PC lighting all parameters within acceptable
range (except nitrates 20+/- ppm I think due to new tank). Some SPS and LPS and
softies all doing well. Now my question. I have some Cactus Algae (Halimeda SP)
that was doing great, growing one section a day. Then it started to slow down
growth and parts of it started to get some coralline on it. Now it is starting
to turn completely White. Can you shed a little light on this for me? I did like
the look of this stuff and would like it to continue to grow. Do you think it's
the nitrate?
<Not the nitrate, but there are several things that can cause this: too much
light, over shading, water warmer than 84 degrees F, or a magnesium
deficiency>
Any suggestions as to how to get it down in addition to water changes. How long
does a DSB take to start helping with nitrates?
<you should notice it any time now>
As always Thanks for your time and knowledge.
Dennis Vigliotte
<best, Chris>
- Algae Questions -
As per my original email... I am thinking that I am having a little bit of
Turtle Weed growing out of my live sand and a bit on my live rock. <Keep an
eye on this stuff, it grows like... well... a weed.> As well, from the
pictures and description in your website, the 'sea-weedy' type algae that is
growing in the front corner of my tank appears to be Bryopsis plumosa. In
both cases, nothing to worry about other than it doesn't look to great??? <Is
only a 'problem' because it grows so well... can overtake other more desirable
items in the tank.> There is not a lot of water circulation in the front
corners of my tank so I can turn my power heads to it... this should help
shouldn't it? <Yes.> Other than that, once I move my tank in two months I
will get more critters that will help out... Any good livestock
recommendations to feed on the two algae's that I mentioned?? <A blue tuxedo
urchin, Mespilia globulus.>
My power heads, filter hoses, and heater are coated with a 'slime' (as is the
back wall of my tank). Anything to worry about?? <Probably
Cyanobacteria... not a worry per se, but something that can come to cover
everything if not dealt with.> It is kind of a brown/green sludge that breaks
off and floats around my tank. Is this something that should be
scraped off frequently??? <I would.> Will too much of this floating around
my tank cause problems??? <Not in and of itself.>
Thanks,
Dave
<Cheers, J -- >
Dwarf Seahorses, Refugiums and Macro Algae 5/2/04
Hey gang! Good morning from New Jersey!
<Good afternoon from the other side of the country>
First off, I'd like to thank you for the wonderful service you do for us fish
geeks. It is greatly appreciated.
<
You're most welcome from another fish geek!>
Now, I wanted to run this past you guys before I end up bashing my head
against the wall later.
<Yikes......Please refrain from head bashing. Then the seahorses will really
have a problem and you will have a headache.>
I currently have several dwarf seahorses in a five gallon
but the brine shrimp is really taking its toll on the nitrate levels.
<Hmmmm I assume you are feeding live. My first thought is perhaps
you are over feeding a bit. You might want to cut back a bit and do more
frequent water changes. If you are not keeping any clean up critters you might
want to consider a few Nassarius snails, which will quickly consume detritus,
uneaten food, decaying organics, and fish waste. In addition a few of
the Hawaiian red shrimp Halocaridina rubra would feed on excess brine shrimp>
So I plan on upgrading to a 10 gallon for increased water volume.
I would like to partition off half of the tank for a refugium. The
side that the seahorses are on would be bare bottom for easy cleaning and the
fuge side would contain a DSB with some rock and macroalgae. The hang on filter
would uptake from the
seahorse side, spill out through the fuge and flow back into the display area.
<It's not the typical dwarf set up but sounds very good actually. I have a
friend who kept her dwarfs very successfully in the 40g refugium connected to
her 125g reef. Be sure to provide some sort of barrier to the intake
to protect them from getting sucked against the intake......perhaps a sponge. I
would probably be tempted to go with at least a little bit of sand and some of
the macros on their on their side for a more natural environment. Unless of
course you are keeping captive bred dwarfs which might be used to a more barren
tank with a glass bottom.
I have one concern .......live rock and the macros combined with live Artemia is
the perfect breeding ground for hydroids which as you probably know can wipe out
an entire tank of dwarfs. You can avoid this by treating the rock and macro
algae with Panacur for 3 days There is more information on dwarf seahorses and
their care on www.syngnathid.org in the Tiny Tots forum and
specifically hydroids and this treatment regimen in this thread.....
http://www.syngnathid.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=Dwarfs&Number=11739&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1
>
So my question is concerning the macro. I have access to several
types but I'm not sure which would be best for this application and I know that
mixing too many species, especially in this size tank isn't
good. Keep in mind
that dwarves fair best in 1.019 - 1.021 SG. <Yes I am familiar with that.>
I have access to the following: feathery Caulerpa , grape Caulerpa (...would
prefer however not to use these), Halimeda ,Penicillus ,Udotea ,Ulva, red
Gracilaria, green Gracilaria, and Bryopsis (haha! want some?)
< I think I will pass on the Bryopsis but thanks so much for the generous
offer <G> anyway . You are limited here by the optimal specific gravity
range of the Dwarfs, with the exception of the Penicillus which can be kept at
1.020. The rest of these species have an optimal specific gravity range of 1.023
to 1.025.>
Depending on which macroalgae you think is best, do you think I could get
away with a 15watt NO 9325 Kelvin bulb on a 10 gal? (I'm thinking probably
not!
hehe) How about 2x13 watt PCs 50/50?..or would you suggest a different Kelvin
since the only thing in the tank that would benefit from a specific spectrum
would be the algae?
<You can find the answers to this in this article Macro-Algae Use in Marine
Aquariums http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgae.htm
. >
thanks, chickie moomoo
<You're most welcome, Leslie>
Bio-Load Question
Hello Guys,
<Hi! Ryan with you today>
Just to preface this message, I attempted to check the WWW site for possible
answers to my question, however the page could not be viewed (could not find
server error ). Anyway, I hope you don't mind. <Not at all- and I bet you
learned a ton in the process as well>
It seems I am almost daily (maybe some exaggeration but not much) pruning the Caulerpa/algae
within my 180G, 200lbs (Florida LR), Hamilton MH and PC's (12 hour cycle), 30G
sump, Shorty Turbo Skimmer with Rose anemone, Squamosa Clam, (2) Dottyback,
various Mushrooms, and various Zoanthus, numerous (100's) snails/crabs . I have
about 10 different kinds of Caulerpa /plants/algae (red/green/tan) including:
Halimeda, Grape, Feather, Red Macroalgae, Brown Macroalgae, and what looks like
Red Turf.
I am considering the purchase a couple different species of tangs, and blenny to
assist with algae control, a Yellowstripe Clownfish for the anemone and 3-4
Blue/Green Chromis for continuous viewing. <OK>
My questions are: Am I being overly concerned with this pruning deal <No, and
if the algae grows, then there are nutrients to export.> and am I
over populating this tank and causing too heavy a bioload. <You're looking at
adding some fish here- they certainly could help. A Foxface may be a
better algae consumer than a blenny, in my opinion. I would keep it
to 2 tang sized fishes, and you could add quite a few damsels for a
school. The clown is acceptable as well. As long as you
stock slowly enough for the bacterial populations to keep up without a crash, I
think you're balancing out quite nicely.> Any response will be welcome. You
guys are the best to lend your time and suggestions to paranoids like me.
<I'm just another paranoid my friend- But instead of being worried about just
my tanks, I worry about yours too! See ya, Ryan>
Red Bubble Algae Causing Seahorse Problems?
Hi Bob,
<Hi Leslie, Craig here>
Something very strange happens every time one of my seahorses (all captive bred) hitches to this small piece of red bubble algae,
sorry I do not know what species it is. I have had red bubble algae in the tank with the horses before without any problems,
maybe this is a different species.
<Sounds like Cyanobacteria, not algae. Could be quite poisonous to these guys I suppose>
So..... they act like they are stuck and trying to get free, but can't.....writhing, twisting, trying to pull away from it,
and rubbing their body and head against it. Now, they do not do this at any other time at all. I have had 2 unexplained deaths
of the smaller horses recently. When it was one of the small ones I just thought maybe they got their tail twisted in it.
Last night one of my larger Ocean Riders got "stuck". I released her and removed the algae from the tank. She has always, from
day one, been a very good and aggressive eater. After the incident last night, she ate one piece of
Mysis out of the water column,
continued to hunt, but just stared at anything else she came upon. This am she did not look quite right, she was hitched hanging
upside down like a possum. The lights were still out when I left for work, so I will see how she is tonight when I get home.
I am wondering if there could be something in or on that piece of algae that could possibly be stinging, stressing or injuring
them in some way.
Thanks for you help, Leslie
<Well, in Cyanobacteria, cyanide. Reduce nutrient load in tank causing Cyano, increase circulation in those areas affected (I know, be careful with too
much) make sure your skimmer is clean and working in top form, water changes and perhaps filtration with a
PolyFilter or? Get rid of the Cyano! (excess nutrient, low current) Craig>
Re: Red Bubble Algae Causing Seahorse Problems?
Hi Craig,
<Anthony Calfo with the follow up>
Thanks for the rapid response. I guess I was not clear enough. I am pretty familiar with
Cyano. I have had Cyano in my tanks on various occasions several times. There is no visible
Cyano in this tank at this time. This is a piece of red Caulerpa I purchased from one of my
LFS. Inland aquatics sells 2 varieties as well. It looks like the green grape Caulerpa, but is red. I believe it may be Botryocladia uvaria, as it looks very similar to the photo in Baensch Marine Atlas, vol
1 on page 233.
<I am familiar with it an believe it to be relatively non-toxic although numerous fish toxins have been isolated in Caulerpas. Perhaps something here too although I doubt it>
Are there any parasites, bugs or critters that can live in or on this type of Caulerpa causing the type of "irritation" to my horses that I described in my original e mail?
<not really... the macro is not a viable host. There is something concurrent about the "relationship" between the plants and seahorse (if at all) that we are missing. Do consider that it could be something
altogether different. Have you tested dissolved oxygen levels by chance? Or do you shut off your skimmer or any other filter at night?>
I am concerned due to the strange behavior as well as the 2 unexplained deaths. Thanks, Leslie
<best regards, Anthony>
Sea Urchins and Macroalgae
Hi! Is there a sea urchin that can be trusted with macroalgae and sessile
invertebrates?
<Please see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/urchins.htm
-Steven Pro>
Macroalgae Gone Wild!
I'm having trouble with my Penicillus turning pale, and also my Halimeda
occasionally looks white then looks green again. Would it affect the plants if
the liquid reactor I have been adding was precipitating in the tank?
<This color change happens often with these plants, usually after the lights
go out- then they often turn green again. I wouldn't be overly alarmed by this.
The "Liquid Reactor" probably wouldn't do them any extreme
harm...but the calcium/alkalinity dynamic could be out of whack, causing all
sorts of problems with your animals. DO monitor these parameters if you're gonna
add any type of calcium product.>
I am checking to see the parameters for iodine, ph, calcium and nitrate
tomorrow.
<Ahh- that's good!>
Also two types of Caulerpa prolifera have partly turned transparent then
stopped, it hasn't spread. Do you think that nutrients are being taken out too
fast by the Caulerpa?
<Let's see what your water tests say about that. Most likely, these algae are
releasing their sexual products into the water, which is not the best thing for
your water quality. My advice would be to get these "weeds" out of the
tank as soon as possible. This propensity to go "sexual" is just one
of the aspects of the "dark side" of Caulerpa- a reason why more an
more hobbyists are using different macroalgae (like the Halimeda, and others
such as Chaetomorpha) in their systems. One of my favorite quotes comes from
Anthony's MACNA presentation: "Friends don't let friends buy
Caulerpa!". That pretty much sums it up! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Macroalgae Gone Wild! (Pt 2)
I actually get the test results tomorrow or even today. But before then I
have noticed hat my Caulerpa racemosa is turning red! Is this relevant?
<Maybe not relevant...But it's WEIRD! Seriously, could be Cyanobacteria
overtaking the Caulerpa??? Hard to say. I've never heard of a green algae
turning red...Seems contrary to what we learn in biology...but who knows? I am
certainly no botanist...I think it would be cool for you to record this
occurrence with some pics! Perhaps the "Men In Black" from the
Government may want to stop buy and see if this is an extraterrestrial plant
species- watch out for unmarked grey Ford Fairmont's in your neighborhood...>
Also my Penicillus is almost white. The whitening of the Halimeda isn't related
to lighting either I should add, but not all the plant is white, other parts are
green and I'm aware that this plant can regenerate after turning white. But the
Penicillus doesn't have a stiff stalk anymore, its flexible. I've moved that
plant elsewhere in the aquarium to see if this makes a difference. The plant
is/was (before turning white)? growing runners.
<Well, I'd be inclined to leave it for a bit to see what happens. The fact
that it's growing runners is good...Keep a close eye on it- as long as its not
decomposing or otherwise degrading your water quality, let's see what happens. I
personally don't like to give up so easily, and I think that you are the same!
Keep in touch! Regards, Scott F>
QT of new macrophytes
Follow-up question if I may
I am getting some Halimedas from same supplier-should plants be
freshwater rinsed, drugged or quarantined before going into main tank?
<Just rinsed (in seawater) on removal from the shipping water, and
quarantined for a few days. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again!
Macro Algae, Qt...
Dear Mr. Fenner,
Do you recommend any dipping or quarantine procedure prior to placing macro
algae in one's main aquarium to prevent introducing fish parasites from the
dealers tanks?
Or is simply dumping the shipping water and rinsing them with some water from
the main tank sufficient?
Regards, Alec
>>
Good question... If there is any doubt at all about the possibility of dragging an infectious or parasitic agent, I'd dip/bath the macro-algae, even quarantine it afterwards for two weeks...
Bob Fenner
Die off!!
Hello everyone.
<all of my many personalities/voices in my head say Hello! right back... One of them is barking
"whasssuuuuuuuup?">
It's very nice to know you guys are out there, just waiting for something to go wrong, and ready with an answer! Having said that, here's my tale of woe!
In the last 3 weeks or so, I have noticed the plant life in my 55 gal. reef dieing off. I didn't pay too much attention because I don't really care for the species, Brown Macroalgae (Sargassum hystrix. But then, I noticed my Brown Wafer Algae (Lobophora variegata) dieing off????
And now, my Maroon Coralline (Peyssonnelia sp.) is covered with white patches and
my, Gelidium pusillum is falling apart!
<salinity shock (critical threshold had been crossed in a nutrient deficiency (plants grow, but supplementation has not kept up... they demand more each day and then crash when they do not get it), or a sudden influx of freshwater, or a change in lighting (new bulbs or decidedly aged bulbs) are common culprits for such die-off>
My nitrates are always a bit high,
<not likely a problem at all>
and at the present they are at 80 ppm. I did a water change about 3 weeks ago, and will do another in a week.
Maybe I'm just feeding too much?
<even more unlikely regarding nutrients (more are generally better for the plant life) unless the feeding has degraded other
components of water quality like pH (is it lower because of the heavy feeding? Below 8.1 by day could be a bit stressful, but even that is a stretch)>
One more thing, please??? I just witnessed some really cool behavior. One of my Dominos just backed
itself into the many clutches of my Banded coral shrimp. The shrimp seemed to be cleaning him! So cool!
< yes... a wonder of the sea>
I've never seen this before however I do know it is a common happening among ocean inhabitants~
<rather common indeed, but ever so beautiful>
Thanks for your time! Pam
<best regards, Anthony>
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