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FAQs about Marine Macro-Algae Nutrition
Related Articles: Marine Algae,
Algae Can Be Your Friend, Refugiums, Avoiding
Algae Problems in Marine System,
Algae Control,
Marine Maintenance, Nutrient
Control and Export, Marine Scavengers,
Snails,
Hermit Crabs,
Mithrax/Emerald Green Crabs, Sea Urchins,
Blennies, Algae Filters,
Ctenochaetus/Bristle Mouth Tangs,
Zebrasoma/Sailfin Tangs, Skimmers,
Skimmer Selection, Marine Algae,
Coralline Algae, Green Algae,
Brown Algae, Blue-Green
"Algae"/(Cyanobacteria), Diatoms,
Brown Algae, Related FAQs:
Marine (Macro) Algae 1,
Marine (Macro) Algae 2, Marine (Macro)
Algae 3, Marine
(Macro) Algae 4, Marine (Macro)
Algae 5, Rationale,
Identification,
Selection/Compatibility/Control,
Systems, Lighting, Disease/Pests/Predators,
Culture Algae Use in Refugiums,
Coralline Algae: Use in Marine Aquariums, Marine
Algae ID 1, Marine Algae ID 2,
Marine Algae Control FAQs II,
Marine Algaecide Use, Nutrient
Limitation, Marine Algae Eaters,
Culturing Macro-Algae;
Controlling: BGA/Cyano,
Red/Encrusting Algae, Green Algae,
Brown/Diatom Algae, |
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Greens-Caulerpa and
Halimeda... competition twixt Algal Divisions 7/30/06
Hey Crew! My main tank is incredibly healthy-90g with 60kg live
rock; ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate=0, calcium=360, pH=8.1. This tank is
home to 4 Nemos, 1 eibli, 1 flame hawk, and 1 blue ring angel. <Will
need more room... soon> It also contains 9 turbo snails for which
there is barely enough algae to feed. Every piece of live rock has
patches of beautiful purple encrusting algae. No green algae seems to
grow in it. This leads to my question. My quarantine tank has nice
patches of Halimeda, grapelike Caulerpa, and caterpillar weed. I would
like to transfer this algae into my main tank. However I am under the
impression, from reading many FAQs, that green algae needs nitrate to
flourish. So, if I was to move the macro-algae into the main tank, is it
likely to survive or will it die? <Conditions there favor/ing the
encrusting Reds will likely preclude the Greens doing well> In the
beginning (about 1 year ago) the tank was left for about 4 months to
cycle and even in this time, no green algae grew. <Likely your
lighting, supplementing habits...> I have moved some hair algae
covered rock into the main tank previously and the hair algae slowly
disappeared. I started off doing weekly water changes but have
since begun doing fortnightly water changes in the hope I might get some
nitrate, but it just won't happen! Thank you! <Mmm... like
some folks lack of understanding re whether the world's terrorist
population is static versus dynamic, you do have nitrate being
produced... and readily absorbed... I would feed some of the Greens to
the fishes here expressly, and/or offer dried human-intended products of
same for the purpose. Bob Fenner> Growing
Plants & Algae Date: Thu, 8 Dec 2005 Hello all, first time
questioner (<---a word??) here!! <Hello Jonathan, James here to
help.> I have a 24"x24"x12" turtle tank (no turtles of coarse) that
I would like to turn into a "plant factory". I have Grape, Spaghetti,
Prolifera?? And one other Caulerpa I can't identify (looks similar to
maple leaves) Grape kelp, and a Mangrove. I would like to also use
this tank to breed/seed live sand. I trade these plants/macro's locally.
How should I "stock" the tank to promote nutrients the plants/algae
need?? <I would try putting a baffle in the area where the pump will
be, that is something to cut down the turbulence, and I would try some
of Ecosystems Miracle Mud as the substrate. I'm sure within a month this
will be teeming with critters.> I currently have a 20 gallon housing
this stuff now and it has 5 dwarf hermits, 5 Nassarius, 5 Turbos and a
pink Anthias. The problem is that the grape kelp and grape Caulerpa are
doing great but all the rest seem to be beginning to "melt" (first
turning white at tips) seemingly do to lack of nutrients?? <This is
where the Miracle Mud comes into play, it's loaded with
iodine/nutrients.> I dose Kent Super chelated Iron and Iodine
daily... <You only want to dose calcium when using Miracle Mud, the
saltwater macroalgae do require some calcium.> and the sand is
literally crawling with life but the plants don't seem as happy as they
used to be. <It will also help to change 10% of this water weekly.>
Everything else seems to love life!! The Fastest results are 0 ammonia,
0 nitrite, 0 nitrate but my Aq. Pharmaceuticals Nitrates shows 20!!,
which do I trust?? <Make sure both kits are actually measuring the
same nitrate level. Some kits measure low range and some high range.>
Fastest: Aq. Pharm: Amm:0 Amm: 0 (very slight change, near zero, but
seemingly "some") Nitrite:0 Nitrite:<.25 Nitrate:0 Nitrate:20-30
(hard to tell exactly which is closer) pH: 8.2 pH: 8.0 (both tests
run at same time on same water sample!!) If 20 is correct shouldn't
the plants be happy?? This seems to be the case on all my other tanks,
Fastest reads near 0 but AqPham reads near double!! Which should I
trust?? <Check the range of the kits as above. Good luck, Justin.
James (Salty Dog)> Please help!! Thanks a lot!! Justin
N-Cycle & Algae Question >Hi Mr. Fenner, >>Marina here in his
stead. >I have a 26G tank. Been running over 5 weeks w/23lbs Live
Rocks and 2 damsels. I'm noticing brown-like algae on my white dead
coral that I bought from Petco. Is this a sign that my tank has been
cycled???? >>No, it's a sign you have excess nutrients. >My
pH=8.4-5, Ammonia=.40ppm, NO2=O ppm, and NO3=20-25ppm. Any advice on
what I should do?? >>Water changes, along with ensuring you have
adequate nutrient exportation in place. You want the ammonia to be
zero, nitrite zero, and a low reading nitrate. >Been reading the
website, no help. My damsels used to be active, and now most of the
time they are hiding. Please Help w/lots of details. Thank you VERY
much. -Donnie >>Read the site more, there is more there than what I
can/will provide here. You have not insignificant ammonia readings,
this is an issue. I would make use of a good quality protein
skimmer. You can bleach (and properly dechlorinate) the dead coral to
remove the algae. Marina Vitamins and Lighting for Gracilaria
and Ulva 1/5/03 Hi, Sorry for filling your inbox - we have an
additional question(s): <No Worries! Adam Here tonight.> We
purchased Gracilaria Parvispora and Ulva algae for our yellow tang (and
hippo tang if you recommend one). I think we will have to grow it in a
separate tank (our sump is an ecosystem and the 18 watt pc lighting
stays on 24/7 - may be too strong). <Probably not too strong, but
maybe an inappropriate photoperiod. Also, if you are growing Caulerpa,
it would probably out compete the others for space, nutrients, etc.>
- Would you recommend adding vitamins to the water to enhance the
Algaes' food value we'll be using the old tank water as we replace
weekly)? If so, would that be vita-Chem, Selcon, garlic... all... or
something else?:-) <Probably just a bit of iron. Everything else
should come from the tank water. You may wish to add the things you
listed to a single portion just prior to feeding, though.> - How
much light would you recommend and which type to best grow the
Algaes? We've seen some recommendations for actinic and some say
florescent is fine. <A couple of generic fluorescents should be
fine. No special spectrum necessary.> Thanks once again in
advance!!! <Glad to! Adam> - Doug Producing nitrates to
feed macroalgae? 2/12/04 I have a question that I really need
help understanding. It seems to me that having bio balls before a algae
refugium would be very helpful. From what I understand plants will only
absorbed nitrate when ammonia and nitrite are not present, as it prefers
to absorb these first. Since there are many things in your system that
can break down ammonia and nitrite wouldn't it be best to have the
plants absorbing as much nitrate as possible as it is the hardest to
break down? <flawed theory: the nitrate being produced is being done
so by a man-made filter. Bypass the problem by aggressive skimming of
organics before they turn into nitrate... and/or maintain adequate water
flow so that live rock, live sand fauna and invertebrates consume the
matter directly rather than letting it go through nitrification. This
boils down to natural filtration versus artificial filtration
methodologies> Since the bioballs have been accused of being overly
efficient in breaking down ammonia and nitrite wouldn't they create a
situation where the plants would have to feed on nitrate and you would
get maximum absorption of that nutrient (which is the hardest to get rid
of) out of your plants. <it's haphazard and unquantified. How much
nitrate will be produced, how many plants are needed to temper it, what
is the rate-limiting factor if not nitrate?> I thought this was why
ecosystem has always kept them in there design, even though they are
submerged? Thanks <Hmmm.. I cannot comment here. I do not care for or
subscribe to the ecosystem methodology wholly. I appreciate some
components of it, but would not employ it personally as directed (with
Caulerpa, overpriced mud, etc). Anthony> Macro-algae Nutrients
Bob or Anthony Is there any written information on nutrients needed
for macroalgae? I have Caulerpa, bottle brush and some coral in a small
display tank with sea horses. I need to read information on the various
needs of the macroalgae and the coral. The contributions from animals
will be very small, since there are only a few dwarf seahorses. Anything
you can send my way will be appreciated. Christine <very good
question! Although I am not aware of a specific study on aquariology
subjects... algae, simple and higher plants all have the same essential
requirements. Some unconfirmed studies of "special" mud products for
refugiums have found that marine "mud" is remarkably like good soil in
nutritive comparison. It certainly stands to reason that the fundamental
needs of terrestrial plant species could be similar to aquatic species.
I honestly feel that the small size of your aquarium system does not
warrant the risk of over fertilizing with a supplement. Incidental
nutrients from feeding fishes and especially weekly small partial water
changes will almost certainly satisfy most of your marine greens
<smile>. Best regards, Anthony> Feeding macroalgae > Bob
> If I had a backup tank for macro algae that had no animals in it, what
would I have to add to keep the macroalgae fed? There are seahorses in
the display tank, and we are using Caulerpa and bottlebrush and live
rock. thanks... [Christine J. Bock] <when you say backup I assume you
mean that it is not plumped inline but rather a separate system. If
so... regular water changes (small amount weekly) and standard plant
fertilizer in small dilute quantities would be fine (in a fishless
system). If you feel that you must, you can overpay for aquarium
marketed plant fertilizers. Best regards, Anthony Calfo> Iron
Supplements & Macro-Algae I have a CPR AquaFuge refugium with
Grape Caulerpa growing in it and no substrate, good or bad? <What is
the Caulerpa attached to? I would like to see you something, sand or
even many small pieces of liverock.> I do want amphipods and copepods
and such to have a home or good place to multiply, can they do this
without any substrate, only detritus? <Larger pods will do better
with the liverock rubble.> I keep the area lighted 24/7, and I have
noticed it is growing since I have been overfeeding my main tank
fishes/corals. Is this due to it thriving on the high phosphates I have
probably added by over feeding? <Probably> Also I always read
sites that state you should dose iron, like Kent Iron supplement for
good macro-algae growth, is this totally true? <All algae need iron
for growth, but you will get plenty with regular water changes.> As I
run a calcium reactor and only dose iodine once weekly, and use
PhosGuard and activated Carbon? <Sounds fine.> Thank you and stay
safe! Paul <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
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