Naso Tang... Not Eating After 3 Days. 08/26/2007
<Hi Tony, Mich here.>
I recently purchased a 6-8" Naso tang (not blondy) from a local shop in MN.
<I hope you have a big tank... These guys can get REALLY big, over 18 inches in the wild, a tank of 135 gallons or more is recommended. Oh, sorry I see below... this fish will appreciate the 6’ length.>
He came in from Hawaii.
<I've seen many there, they are BIG and beautiful.>
I ensured he was eating
<Did you see him eat?>
they said he eats algae sheets and a lot of Nori.
<Typically.>
they had the fish for 3 weeks before I got him.
<Hopefully he ate while in their care.>
Since putting him in my 6' 125 gallon tank he is not interested in eating anything at all.
<No QT?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm
Hopefully no diseases immerge. Have you observed him picking algae from you LR?>
He swims all over the place and is active all the time and still looks beautiful.
<These guys typically graze constantly... sort of like cows...>
It has been 3 days
<May still be acclimating.>
and I just don't want him to get sick or die.
<Me neither!>
What can I do?
<Observe to see if he is eating anything that is growing in your tank, offer a variety of herbivore rations, i.e. macro algae, brown algae in particular, Gracilaria is often another favorite, Spirulina, Nori or other dried algae/seaweed sheets (also available at Asian food store) soaked in Selcon (vitamin supplement) and give him a little time, hopefully he will come around.
More here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/naso_lituratus.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nasolfdg.htm >
Tony
<Hope he's nibbling soon!
Mich>

Re: Naso Tang... Not Eating After 3 Days. 08/26/2007
<Hi Tony, Mich here.>
he grazes along the rock
<A good sign.>
but doesn’t spend any extra time picking at anything specific.
<He's eating, that's what's most important here.>
I talked to the shop I got him from yesterday and they said it took him 2 weeks to start eating.
<A while.>
I was also told by leaving the algae sheets in the tank for more than a few hrs at a time I can pollute my tank is that true?
<Yes, Generally, I would not leave any large amounts of algae sheets in the tank for very long. To get him to start eating you may want to leave the algae for a more prolonged period, but I would keep the quantity rather small. Living Macro algae such as Gracilaria would be even better as there is no risk of pollution, as this algae should not decay and it a particular favorite among tangs.>
Thanks for getting back to me so soon
<Welcome! A pleasure to assist.>
Tony
<Cheers,
Mich>

Naso Tang
Hello Web Media crew
<G'day>
I recently bought a Naso Tang that is only grazing on the plant growth from my live rocks. He completely stripped the growth from some Fiji rock that grew a kelp like growth ( yellowish brown leave and stems) and is dining on other macroalgae - red color with narrow stems mesh like growth. I tried green and brown algae sheets, dried kelp from an Asian grocery - no luck. I also tried live brine shrimp and only my other fish ate that.
Q. What might be going on?
<He likes the real algae better.>
and what is the next best avenue to take?
<Keep offering a varied diet.>
Fresh shrimp from the grocery ? I do not want to loose this fish. Looking to hear from you. Thanks.
<Check out the links below for more information.
http://wetwebmedia.com/naso.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/nasofaqs.htm>

Naso Tang Not Eating
Hello, I am fairly new in saltwater fish.  I've had my 75gal tank since the beginning of July, cycled it with Damsels, tested the water, and it is perfect.  I bought a Naso Tang, Kole Tang, and Porcupine Puffer Fish about two weeks ago.  The Puffer is eating good.  The Kole Tang has finally started eating pellets other than the live rock.  But our Naso is not eating as much, especially since I can see his belly looks pinched in.  He used to eat from the live rock, but will not eat the seaweed I have dangling from the seaweed clip.  He doesn't seem to have any parasites on him. Any suggestions?  I am getting worried.  Will the fish actually starve themselves to death?  I've tried green seaweed, brine shrimp, and putting Vitamin/HUFA supplements in the tank, which is supposed to "stimulate" their appetite, as my local fish store told me.  Thanks.
<<Good Morning, Barbara Taormina helping out while the majority of the crew is at MACNA. I’m sorry to hear your concerns with your Naso, one of my favorite fish. Naso tangs require large tanks and are known to sulk if they feel “cramped”, if there’s been a change in the decor or if the tank is without strong circulation. You don’t mention the size of the Naso or the amount of live rock present in your tank and my concern is that there isn’t enough to sustain both the Kole and the Naso. This is a relatively new set-up and the amount of algae growth on the live rock may have been depleted.  I would attempt locating some “plant rock” from a local fish store.  This is small pieces of rock with various types of Caulerpa growing on it or perhaps you know a fellow hobbyist that maintains a refugium that could share some macro algae. 
It can take some time for fish to become accustomed to a seaweed clip. I would try rubber banding the seaweed to a small piece of rock where he will hopefully find it while foraging.  My Naso is particularly fond of Nori, (which can be found at Oriental grocery stores) and is also crazy about frozen cubes of “Emerald Entree”, Formula One & Two, and Mysis shrimp. The use of vitamin supplements is great, soak all foods for 20-30 minutes before offering. Best of luck, Barbara>>

Naso only eats Mysid
Before I get underway, I like to thank you for your valuable service especially as it is volunteer based.
<You are welcome. Thank you for the acknowledgement>
I recently purchased a Naso Tang. He is about 4". I've read your advice regarding buying one over 5" but I honestly couldn't afford it as the difference in price was quite significant. 
<Yes... understandably... due to the size of bag, water weight, oxygen it takes to ship these active fish... the bigger sizes take much more...>
I did, however, wait two weeks before purchasing him and checked to see if he was eating. The problem is he only seems to eat Mysid shrimp. I've tried to get him to eat seaweed, marine algae, Spirulina, and flakes. Realizing that he needs a vegetarian element to his diet, I've also tried to withhold the Mysid in the hopes that he would change his singular tastes. All was to no avail. Also, he is not eating enough and has become somewhat emaciated.
<Try soaking the seaweed in a vitamin mix (like Selcon, Microvit...) for a good fifteen minutes or more ahead of dangling it at the upper edge (with water wafting it about). Try different types of algae (from the oriental food section/store... reconstituted by soaking in water), particularly the softer Reds...>
Do you have any advice? Should I continue to withhold Mysis until he turns vegetarian or simply keeping feeding and hope he develops a craving for green?
<I would keep feeding the animal the mysids, but try making some homemade food (gelatin or other emulsifier based) into chunks and feed it mixed with other materials (algae, pellet...) to wean this animal onto other food types. Recipes for same can be found on the Net>
Any help you can give will be much appreciated. -Limak
<Persistence pays. Bob Fenner>

Naso lituratus Care and Cyano 11/30/2005
Hello Crew,
<Hi Steve.>
Hope your holiday season is going well. Thanks for taking time to still tend to the questions posted here on a daily basis.
<Thank you…and for me helping out here is actually a nice break from the hustle and bustle.>
I recently added to the main display after a short QT a Naso Tang (Lipstick). The short QT was due to the fact that the 20 gallon QT tank was just too small and the Naso was not a happy camper in such small quarters. The Naso is between 6" - 7" long with good body thickness and great coloration. 
<Oh yes this was far too small even for a short term stay, for larger animals like this (when buying a larger tank is out of the question) I like to use plastic containers or even Rubbermaid tubs labeled as food safe can work.>
I was told this was a Blonde Naso (male with streamers) and I have researched the species before so I am quite familiar with the general characteristics of this fish. One thing I read was that they are a very powerful and active swimmer which undoubtedly is the case with the specimen I purchased.
<Yes I swam with these animals on the north shore of Oahu, HI. I’m a near Olympic caliber swimmer and could not hang for long in the rocky tidal zone with these guys, very powerful swimmers indeed capable of great speed.>
He loves to swim and shows off his power every now and then in his 250 gallon (7' long) FOWLR tank. 
<Good size tank.>
Other residents include a 4" Longnose Butterfly, 3.5" Chrysurus angel, 3" Chevron tang, 3.5" Orange shoulder tang, and 24" Zebra moray eel. I know for the time being the Naso has enough room, however if the other tangs and angel reach full potential length I will probably move one of the other tangs. 
<Yes and their may be some potential aggression with the Orange-shoulder tang due to similar appearance and habits.>
Question: the Naso goes crazy for the daily feedings of Sea Veggies, Nori, and Seaweed selects (sometimes soaked in Selcon), as well as grazing all day on the 225 lbs. of live rock and substrate. He does not eat however the prepared foods that I feed the other fish in my tank, mainly frozen cubes of Lifeline, Ocean Nutrition's formula one and two, Mysis, as well as Angel formulations.
<Well he may still be adjusting so I would not worry just yet. The Nori/sea veggies soaked in Selcon is a great food for this animal so since he’s accepting that I am not too concerned. >
<<Actually, this animal should be taking in a good deal of meaty foods as well.  I would offer him some krill to start, see how he likes that.  Marina>>
I have also tried flake, Hikari Marine A pellet as well as Ocean Nutrition pellet food. I have tried soaking all of the above choices in Garlic Extreme and at times the Selcon or Zoe to entice with no avail.
<Keep trying.>
The only prepared food he has eaten (with vigor) is Sweetwater zooplankton.  He has only been in the main tank display for one week and was only in QT for one week so maybe he will broaden his range of food, however I wanted to know if the Sweetwater zooplankton is a good enough food along with varied algae sheets if he never adapts to other foods? Any suggestions?
<Well he is eating so as I mentioned above, am not to worried just keep offering. I bet he takes to the above food within a week or two, still being a relatively new specimen. The food you have offered is great, especially the nutritional supplements.>
<<I would do what the LBAOP does - free feed romaine lettuce (they rubber-band it to a bit of live rock and drop it in the QT tanks, and in the displays use lettuce clips.  Marina>>
Second question: I recently removed the glass covers from the top of the tank and replaced with light grid (egg crate). I position the crate cover such that the skinny tapered section is facing up and the result was a substantial increase in light intensity in the tank.
<How old are the bulbs? What is the Kelvin temperature?>
I am trying to do everything I can to eliminate patches of Cyano that keep appearing on the substrate (DSB of fine aragonite). The Cyano has always limited itself to the substrate and I drain the frozen food, run Phosban, Purigen, activated carbon, skimmer is cranked up producing great skimmate, and a 40 watt UV sterilizer cleaned monthly. I also test all top off water (shows .1 Phosphate) and perform weekly 10% water changes with Coralife salt (aged for 1 week).
<Where is your source water coming from is this tap or RODI? If it is tap I think that may be why your are getting the phosphate reading, if its RODI how old are your cartridges?>
Ammonia/nitrite 0, nitrate 5, Ph 8.4, temperature 81 - 82 F, salinity 1.24, and dKH of 12. I hoped that the intensity of light being increased may help with the Cyano so I removed the tank glass covers. Any other recommendations on helping to remove the few areas of Cyano that are so bothersome. I have positioned the large SEIO powerheads to increase circulation to these areas, to the extent that it visibly moves the sand in these areas, to no avail. I have read all of the FAQ's regarding this and think I am doing the right things. Interesting side note: the sand that I can see under the caves within the live rock are perfectly white with no Cyano, which is perplexing because these areas are not receiving direct light, nor the highest water movement.  Any thoughts on this?
<Since the Cyano is limited to one area my first though was that these areas lack water movement and are accumulating detritus. I think you made a great move my adding those SEIO powerheads. At this point I would continue as you have with the water changes and I would also siphon these areas during those water changes.>
Sorry for such a long email, however I am trying to give all of the pertinent information to help answer the email.
<No worries.>
Best regards,
<And to you too.>
Steven 
<Adam J.>

Naso With Balance Problems
>Dear Crew,
>>Hello Allyson.  You have Marina today, with my greatest apologies, I've just received your message in my inbox today and I sincerely hope it's not too late.
>I love my Naso like a child.  We've had him a few years and we bought him when he was approximately 6 inches long.  We were stupid.  It's too big a fish even for our 125 gallon tank.  He belongs in the reef.  Our water parameters have been stable for several years but tonight I'll check them again.  He's just looking out of sorts.  He frequently has a little ick in the mornings and the cleaner shrimps jump on him and it falls off by the end of the day.  He's a fussy eater and will only eat Tetra marine flakes and Caulerpa.  He eats these like a pig and the little guy is fat as a house.  He still eats OK.  There was a period a week ago when we skipped a meal for him (were away for 1 meal-we feed him a lot twice each day by hand).  The temperature dropped 3 degrees.  Our refugium where we raise Caulerpa and other macroalgae smelled bad and we changed most of the water.  It smells fine now.  I think the Caulerpa looked a bit unstable at the time but it's not sexual.  
>>If in doubt, prune it back heavily, being CERTAIN to remove by the full holdfasts, not just breaking off 'leaves'.
>During that time, for several days, the fish's yellow face turned dark and he did not swim as actively.  He barely ate.  We raised the temp to 80 and his face got yellower and he swims and eats more.  What is most disturbing is that since that time I see that he has trouble keeping himself upright slightly.  It's very slight but he'll swim sideways at times and I see he has his alerting colors on (he gets blotches when he's frightened).  
>>It seems you're taking the best care of him you can, but I believe he's simply outgrown the system and is displaying the stress (you've made no mention of his current dimensions).  This could explain the little bit of ich, the stress coloration, and possibly the 'balance' issues (swim bladder, possibly?  Fish have no inner ear).  He's definitely not growing old, these animals can live 20 years easily.
>He just seems a little clumsier.  He doesn't swim as fast or as agilely lately.  I'm trying to see if it's worsening but it's inconsistent.  He doesn't have any skin lesions and the ick is very slight and barely and occasionally visible.  I've tried hospital tanks with him but the conditions are so unstable in such a small tank, he does worse so I've given up trying to treat the ick.
>>Yes, also, treating him a hospital tank will do no good whatsoever if there are still other vertebrates in the system upon which the parasite can find a host.  The only way for hospitalization to be effective is for the main display to go fallow for a minimum of 6 weeks, though this often proves not to be long enough.
>I've done searches here and on reef central and I have not seen balance problems listed much.  The few times it was with new fish and they died soon after developing it.  I'm hoping he gets better and it was just a minor trauma/infection.  
>>You've listed no water parameters other than the temperature drop (amount), so I can't really offer much other than a guess and a mantra - when in doubt, do a water change.  This won't help him at all if the problem is simply that he's outgrown this system, but it will if, in spite of the presence of the 'fuge, there is a buildup of nitrate or other chemicals we cannot measure without a full laboratory at our disposal.  Even then, you might want to have an idea of what you're testing for.  You haven't mentioned how big the fish is now, but Nasos  grow rather large.  Water changes on a large scale will not hurt, and can both replenish lost compounds as well as remove buildups of others.
>We've also been administering Joes Juice to kill Majano so I wonder if that has something neurotoxic.  
>>Be VERY careful with that stuff!  From what I understand they do not list any ingredients (proprietary?), and I've read many posts on reefs.org of folks losing their shrimps after using Joe's Juice.  I have no idea of it has any neurological effect, this is such a new product and few are regulated in any manner.  If you were my customer I wouldn't have sold you this product, and I would now suggest you stop using it altogether.
>Bottom line, what could cause this?  A vitamin deficiency (he won't eat garlic, Selcon, or any other flake or food than that Tetra marine stuff)?  
>>Garlic won't provide vitamins or nutrition to fish (think about it, how often do fish get their nutrition from garlic in the wild?), but it has been proven to have a slight to moderate antibiotic effect.  The food he will accept can be soaked in Selcon prior to feeding, but you MUST be persistent.  Also, Nasos do like some meaty foods, have you offered him the irresistible krill?  Variety, especially with such a fish, is KEY.  He is behaving like a pet poodle, and you'll have to stand your ground when it comes to sampling different foodstuffs.  These fish can easily go several days without feeding - if he gets hungry enough, he WILL try it (assuming he's not actually ill, which I don't believe is the case at this point).
>A transient parasitic infection (maybe the ick got in his balance system)?  
>>Doubtful, I've not read of such mild infestations affecting an animal's balance.  If this were a problem you'd see flashing and rapid gilling, not just balance problems.
>What scares me is that this might be a buildup in the Caulerpa toxins.  
>>Possibly, but again, I do doubt this.  I didn't have a problem feeding C. taxifolia to my Z. flavescens, Z. scopas, or other tangs for several years.
>I give him a little bit each day as a treat.  He loves it.  (Won't eat any kind of Nori, broccoli, spinach, Sprung's sea veggies, lettuce, spinach, bok choy etc. for greens).  
>>Again, he will if he's hungry enough, and again, offer him some meaty foods.
>I decided to do this because this little guy has so few pleasures in our small tank, at least he should have that.  What was the toxin in Caulerpa so I can read about it?
>>This I cannot answer, try searching Anthony Calfo's writings (this is off the top of my head), assuming a general Google turns up nothing.
>Thanks, Allyson
>>You're welcome, Allyson.  At this point, my honest assessment is that the fish is demonstrating end result of too small a system.  I'm curious as to whether or not this animal has grown the tail 'streamers' for which they're noted, if not, this, along with the other symptoms you mention lead me to this initial conclusion.  Marina

Naso With Balance Problems - Happy Happy Joy Joy!
>Dear Crew,
>>Hello Allyson.
>Oh happy day!  My fish is slowly recovering with just good conditions!!!  
>>As nature intended.
>We raised the temp 3 degrees because we saw that was the major change associated with his poor health.  Immediately he looked happier (I think I mentioned this before).  
>>Yes, you did.
>Last night he greeted me at the door like he used to.  His swimming is slowly more agile.  He continues to eat like a pig and is as fat as a house.  
>>This is very good news, and remember my mantra!  When in Doubt, Do a Water Change!
>Untergasser's chart (a book on fish disease) on swim bladder has in his chart on swim bladder a few differentials.  At first all I saw was autopsy and I freaked.  
>>Yeah, well, there's only one way to get a postmortem.
>Now that I look at it more closely, the most likely diagnosis, given the outcome, is that wall of the air bladder was hardened and inflamed (treated by raising the water temp by 3 to 5 degrees for 5 days). Alternative diagnoses are pretty grim.
>>For a fish who's been in captivity for several years, yes, this is true.  
>At this point, there are several references to autopsies. The air bladder filled with purulent, bacteria-filled fluid-there are a few other presentations related to bacteria (refers to bacteria treatment chart).
>>And treatment would absolutely require use of a hospital system.  This *can* be done, but with a large fish it is not an inexpensive proposition.
>Cysts are in the wall of the air bladder. Inclusions in the wall of the air bladder (no treatment possible). Protozoans are in the kidney and bloodstream.
I discussed more details on Reefcentral, including a summary of Untergasser's bacterial treatment mash.
>>Yes, I've just read it.  Know this, you can go ahead and hypo the animal for ich, but as I said before, if you don't remove ALL vertebrate life, the ich will not be gone from that system.  It's far better at this point to provide best conditions and nutrition.  Know also that garlic is only proved effective as a mild antibiotic, empirical evidence claims appetite stimulation.  My assertion is that if a fish is given proper quarters, best water quality and nutrition, nature shall do what she does best and the animal(s) will thrive.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3795821#post3795821 <please hyperlink!>
Thanks for your thoughtful response.  Please spread the word about this rare
phenomenon.  Allyson
>>Through you, we shall!  Thanks for the follow-up, too, Allyson.  I felt terrible thinking that your message had been sitting and it might have been too late.  I am VERY pleased that your pet is back on the road to recovery and a long life.  Marina

Feeding a Juvenile Naso Tang
Bob,
First let me thank you for your book The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. The information I have gotten from it has made it worth many times the purchase price. That said here is my question. I purchased a juvenile (3 inch) Naso Tang 4 days ago. I've tried feeding dried Nori on a clip and floating. Frozen Formula Two, Also Algae pellets. He picks at the rocks and gravel. However I don't believe there is enough growth to sustain him. Any thoughts? Thank you, Dan
<You want to try to make the prepared foods appear more natural. Try attaching the feeding clip or the Nori directly to a small piece of liverock. Also, frozen Mysis shrimp, plankton, and bloodworms are all good too. -Steven Pro>

Re: Naso Tang
I bought A pretty good size Naso tang on Tuesday Oct.30. He is about 6-8 inches. The very first night I brought him home I fed him some frozen Brine shrimp. He ate like crazy, finished everything by himself, he looked like a Vacuum. The next day he didn't eat anything and today Nov. 1st he didn't eat a single thing again. He just passes right by the food. I give him Brine shrimp,  Seaweed Selects Brown Algae and Spirulina Pellets and he doesn't want to eat anything. I even tried some frozen Plankton. Is this normal?
<Yes, at least not abnormal... do keep trying the various foods, especially hanging a strip of algae near the waters surface... perhaps soaking it in a vitamin preparation as a feeding stimulant>
If he wouldn't have eaten that first night like he did I wouldn't be so worried about him not eating. I would just think he is getting acclimated. All fish take like 3 days before they start eating right but why would he eat the first night and not anymore. He is healthy looking and shows no signs of any kind of infection.
<Don't lose faith here. Bob Fenner>

Tangs
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Howdy>
It's me again with another question I'm hoping you don't mind pondering for a moment. 
<Not at all>
I've had a Naso tang in my 125 for about 4 months. He is the largest fish in the tank at about 7 inches. We recently got a red sea Sailfin tang, that is maybe 4 inches long. Since the introduction of the Sailfin, the Naso's appetite has slowly decreased down to nothing, and he's looking very thin. Do the two species not get along? 
<Usually do... FWIW, their ranges overlap>
I don't see them fighting at all. Everyone else seems okay, and water tests are good. Any ideas?
<Often Nasos do go "off feed"... a good idea to try other foods, and to soak them in advance with a liquid vitamin preparation. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nasofaqs.htm and on to the many FAQs re marine fish nutrition, foods, feeding. Bob Fenner>
As usual, infinite thanks for any help you can offer. Tracy

Naso tang
Mr. Fenner, I am worried about my Naso tangs. I ordered a medium Naso tang from FFExpress and received a small one instead.
<How small? You can read my numerous comments on this species, genus (Naso lituratus) posted on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com... ones under three inches rarely survive>
So I had them take care of the problem after some initial problems and they sent me the medium Naso for free and told me to keep the small one. So now I have two Nasos, but that isn't the problem, they get along fine. It's that neither of them will eat a darn thing. The little one was already skinny doesn't look thick like a normal Naso) when I received it, and it will be two weeks tomorrow since I got him. I have tried everything I have read in your book and received some advice from others but I am still worried. I have offered the small Naso the following: flake food I knew it wouldn't eat it, but I tried it anyways), brown algae on a clip and tied to the live rock, red algae on a clip and tied to the live rock, dried toasted Nori seaweed from the oriental store section tied to a rock and on a clip, frozen brine shrimp, frozen krill, formula 2, and today I tried live brine shrimp. I even tried romaine lettuce on a rock and the Naso took a few small bites but didn't really eat. Nothing seems to work, and for the little guy, it's been almost 2 weeks. The big one about 5") and the small one about 3"), did not even bother to eat the live brine shrimp. I actually had to scoop them out of the tank because they were just clogging up the water. The only good thing I can get out of all of this is that they both munch on the live rock I have about 100lbs LR) quite often, but I don't really have any macroalgae growing on the rock. I have some hair algae and what looks like the stumps from the seaweed that used to be attached to the rock I think that's what they try to eat). But they can't be getting a whole lot of food from that.
<Well stated, and taken... Do keep trying to orient these fish to the Nori... with a clip near the water's surface... in the front... of their tank... and do secure some "Red Algae" (like "ogo", "Rhodymenia"...) fresh, frozen/defrosted, live... to sustain them while adjusting to captivity... this is principally what they eat in the wild>
I have had the tank up for almost 2 months and water parameters are as follows: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0-5, ph 8.1, sg 1.024, temp 78*. The tank is a 125 and has plenty of lr(100+lbs) for the fish to hide and eat.
All those water parameters have been stable for about 1.5 months. From what you say in your book, my water is almost/is perfect. Both fish are healthy and swim around, except the little one, he doesn't swim around real fast like the big one does. All the Nasos I have seen, seem to swim very
powerful from time to time, and the little one just kind of waltzes around the live rock and occasionally into the open areas of the water. They are both pretty shy, and I can understand why. If I was kidnapped from my house in the middle of the night, shipped to some warehouse, then sent half way across the world to a LFS and kept in a tank with hardly any protection or hiding spots and then put into a new environment, I would be pretty shy too. But 2 weeks, and he is still very skittish when I move near the tank, <Yes... they live in almost an endless space, just on/off main reefs... over vast areas...>
try to feed the other fish he runs every time to his hiding spot and won't come out for about 1-5 minutes), come on, I think he is retarded or just really scared still. The freaking damsels are running around and only get scared for like 1 second and then come back. The big Naso was freaking out when I finally turned the lights on later in the day when I got him. I took about 1-1.5hrs to acclimate him, and had the lights off for about 3-4hrs, and when I finally turned the lights on, he started swimming up and down and back and forth real fast and freaky like. He kept banging into the walls of the tank and looking like he was trying to get out or fight
himself in the glass. He is cool now though, but still very shy, and only swims around when I sit perfectly still. I have heard from so many people that Nasos usually won't eat for about two weeks and then they'll eat just about everything. They say don't worry, mine did the same thing, and now he eats like a pig, eats out of my hand, and is fat like a little piggy. Well mine isn't eating. He doesn't look like he is sick and he isn't getting any skinnier. The bigger one is already a big guy pretty thick), but not eating. He started munching the rock today got him yesterday), but won't eat the live brine shrimp either. What I'm I going to do with these two fish?
Just keep waiting them out and offering food every few days? Or take action? You are the expert, and I remember your stories about your time in the pacific dealing with fish export companies. 
<Yes... and still go there every year.>
You talked about how you were walking around on Styrofoam boxes and dodging missile jumping tangs. So I would consider you quite the expert, and your advice about what I can do and how to do it, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much, Ryan Fick
<Please do the above (continue to offer algal foods) and read through everything on the acanthurids posted on the WWM site... and have faith... I do believe the larger specimen will "come around"... and have hope for the smaller one. Bob Fenner>

Naso Troubles
Thanks for the quick response! I apologize for asking another (unrelated) question, so soon on the heels of the last one, but I forgot to ask it last
time. I have a Naso tang who seems to be wasting away. A friend took care of all of my fish for a few months, while I was in between tanks. When I got them back a month ago, they all seemed to be a bit on the thin side, but most have come back nicely. The Naso, however, seems to look worse. He seems interested in food, and vigorously attacks the sushi Nori that I feed every day, but he spits out whatever he chews. He does seem to keep all of the frozen and flake foods down. Is this something that you're familiar with? Can you suggest anything? Thanks again, Dan
<Yes. Do try other "human intended" (especially Rhodophyte, Red Algae (though they'll likely look green...) species like Rhodymenia, Gracilaria... and soak all in Selcon (or other vitamin prep.s like Zoecon, Microvit...) a good fifteen minutes before offering them to your Naso... and some meaty foods you can suspend on a "feeding spoon" near the surface... Bob Fenner>

Naso Tang
Mr. Fenner, I have an unusual concern with my Naso Tang. For some reason when he relieves himself, even though he eats like a pig, he turns around and eats his own waste. Seems to me that it cannot be normal, have any suggestions on this problem?
<Actually, not a problem... not unusual with this species, other related fishes (acanthurids in general), even some mammals (lagomorphs/rabbits are probably the best example). Don't worry about this coprophagous behavior. Bob Fenner>

Food for Naso
My Naso tang is about 4 in. long, I got him about 1/6/00. It started to eat some lettuce and some algae on the rock, then it stopped. I had removed my Sailfin to another tank. Maybe that will encourage the Naso to eat but I haven't got the result. I had tried different types of flakes, live brine shrimps, but he either eat a little or none. Bob, what can I do? My water quality is fine. 
<<Look for some "Ogo" (sold live, cultured in Hawai'i) or other brown algae... as the best taken food... some live rock as second, some species of Caulerpa as third... Nori sheet algae tied to something near the surface...
Bob Fenner>>

Naso Not so Good
Hello
<Hi, Ryan here>
I have a Naso tang (lituratus) with streamers and he is not eaten since a couple of days, I have checked water parameters and they are all fine (still did a water change) except the ph that was about 7.8 I raise it to 8.1over a two day period ,the thing is yesterday the fish had ate a little bit not as much that normally eat!!!!( had not eat for two, tree days before that )and now today he stopped again and I notice that is lips are white (like a fungus or something covering the lips ) and he is staying on the top part of the tank all he other fish are fine and healthy and eating fine .?????????
<Hi.  A change in pH from 7.8 to 8.1 can have negative effects on sensitive livestock.  I recommend you start to buffer your pH (sounds like you already are), and add something to stabilize your calcium and alkalinity.  B-Ionic is simple as pie.  As for feeding, I would try and offer some frozen Formula 2 and Nori.  The white lips you are describing is probably a sign of a bacterial infection.  Is this a new fish?  I would take him out, isolate him and treat with a Furazolidone and Nitrofurazone medication, and follow the directions to the T.  Good luck, Ryan>
I am starting to freak out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! don't want to loose that fish !!! how many time can they stay without eating ?
Would like to have any help or advice you think might help
Thanks

Neo Naso Notes
I just got a 3-4" Naso tang and he just got added into the tank after a 3 hour drip acclimation are there any tips you can give me for raising a healthy Naso?<Yea....you will need to feed this potentially huge fish a lot...believe me I have a 14" Naso Vlamingi and a 8" Naso Vlamingi....they eat A TON OF FOOD!!! Also you will need to house this fish in at least a 6 foot aquarium because they are open ocean swimming fish. Also make sure water quality is very good. IanB>

Re: Black Spot on Fin (NASO TANG)
Bob,
Thanks so much for the information ! I am removing all copper out of the tank. My Naso is doing better, however he stopped eating for a few day but I was able to get him to eat live brine shrimp last night. I suppose it was the medication in the water and now he seems to be coming around. (The black spots on the fins have disappeared).
<You are very likely correct here>
I have one more question! I have a 4" or 5"-saddleback clown that I bought from a dealer.
<A large specimen... better not bought at adult sizes>
I put in a QT tank for about 2 weeks and then put him in my show tank. I noticed some large white patchy raised spots on the tips of his fins (about 2 of them )and one on his side. He does not scratch them and he eats like a pig. I have read they are prone to parasites or Brooklynella? I am putting him back in the QT tank and removing the copper . What Do I treat with now? Formalin or anything? Dips? or wait and see! He has about a total of 4 spots on him.
<I would NOT treat this specimen OR move it... but instead replace it to the main/display system, bolster its nutrition with the soaking of foods with vitamin complex (e.g. Selcon)... Not likely Brooklynella or any parasite here. Bob Fenner>
HELP,
CAPT. NEMO-

Re: Naso Tang Hunger Strike, Black Spot...
Bob,
Hope everything is going well ! I wrote you last week about my 11" Naso Tang. I was running copper on the tank and then treated him with clout (for a black spot on his fin) about the 3rd day on the clout he quit eating!
<If memory serves, I mentioned NOT treating this fish... and would cease to do so NOW>
The puffer and the damsels in the 130 gal. tank are fine. The water is perfect and has been through the treatment. I am pulling everything out of  the tank with carbon filters and activated carbon, all levels are much lower.
<My friend... I can't tell what you mean by "perfect" or "lower"...>
However, my Naso will eat very little if anything at all. It has been about a week and he is looking ok, but he has the pinched stomach. I have tried everything, live brine shrimp is the only thing he will even try to eat and very little each time if at all ! I am very concerned that he has been over medicated with the copper and clout. I have used Selcon on brine and live plants. Do you have any
suggestions!
<Yes... place this specimen back in the main tank if you have not already, try various algae on a "clip" near the water/air surface... Kombu, Nori, what have you, that you can get from the oriental food store or section in a main outlet>
I am very worried that I am going to lose him.
He is swimming around fine and breathing normal, yesterday he started staying on the bottom behind a rock (very unusual for him).
<A very bad sign... Tangs rest on the bottom at night, but during the day are continuously active>
If the light is on he is more active.
help!
<Move the fish, offer it prepared or fresh macroalgae. Bob Fenner>

Re: Naso Tang Hunger Strike
Bob,
The fish that you told me NOT to treat and to move back into the main tank was the 5" saddleback clown.
<Sorry re... think I've got you, your situation confused with something/someone else's that's similar>
Which I did exactly what you said and he is doing great and some of the white cotton like spots have disappeared! He is doing great and eating  fine!
<Ahh, good>
Unfortunately, the Naso had already been treated as of my writings to you. My local Fish Store owner is the one who gave me the clout and copper treatment idea for the black splotches on the fin (I know, don't believe everything you're told!!)
<I discount most all... including when I'm talking to myself!>
Nonetheless, I did pick up some Kombu and Nori and will try that tonight!
<This species of Naso REALLY likes macroalgae... I have seen it with its head out of water (!) in Hawai'i munching away at intertidal thallophytic material!>
My water has maintained a O ammonia, O nitrite, 8.2 ph. 20 t0 40 on the nitrate( large fish only tank).
Thanks for the help!
<Thank you for the clarification, input. Bob Fenner>