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Substrate vacuuming - reef tank 10/25/05 Hi Guys and Gals, Now, I REALLY DO try to read as much as I can on WWM and other web sites before I ask a question. <Good> You all have been very, very helpful many, many times. In this case I have found exact opposite answers on WWM, so I thought I'd ask directly and maybe you can put it to a vote ;). I have a 55G reef tank, lots of live rock, about 2-3" sand bed. Beside the low-bio-load of corals and fish, there is a crew of hermits and Astrea snails along with an orange-spotted goby. Should I manually vacuum the substrate, <Yes> and if so, how deeply? <it doesn't matter...just make sure you get all the detritus out of the gravel...or you may have nitrate and algae problems> Doesn't that suck all the little critters out of the bed? <probably not> I have a siphon-type vacuum, but I've never actually used it on my reef tank..... <It should be fine, IanB> <<Please Google our site for tips on vacuuming sand beds - "Marina, vacuum, sand bed", select the link that says 'cached'. MH>> Re: Bristle (Polychaete worms) Overpopulation 10/25/05 Hello again <Hello!> First , I would like to elaborate...I would NEVER introduce ANY species of creature, coral or otherwise, into any eco system w/o first approaching a restoration facility . <Glad to see we're on the same page.> I am full aware that many systems have been destroyed by the introduction of the tiniest of creatures. My goal is to raise some of the species native to my area and, through the marine-biological community in my area, re-introduce some of the species that may have been over harvested to the point of near extinction. (Sorry for my verbiage in my last email) <No worries didn't offend me at all, its just that a lot of kids frequent the forum including my siblings.> I have become quite outspoken on the subject and did not consider the harshness of that words. My apologies. I will put more thought into it next time. <Don't stress about it just proves you are zealous for your dream, that's not a bad thing.> As far as the condition at hand. My primary means of filtration is a refugium. I also am using an oversized protein skimmer for my application. <Both are very good.> The collection cup seems to be storing a sufficient amount of refuse. Most of the coral feeding that I am doing is via suspended liquids so I wouldn't believe that the bristle worms would consider it a viable food source. I may be wrong. <It is possible, many liquid products become excess nutrients contributing to pollution which indirectly can affect the bristle problem.> Nitrate and Ammonium levels are well within allowable ranges. <How is your water flow along the bottom of the tank, maybe too much detritus is settling?> Nearly nil. I have been reading about using a small glass jar sunk into the substrate with holes in the lid. I guess that I will try that next. My LFS has had a multitude of problems getting Sixlines since all the storms have been pummeling Florida. I will also get one of them ASAP. <Be sure to Quarantine it.> Thank you again for the prompt email and God Bless. <No trouble and you are welcome, Adam J.> 3 questions, and answers.... Please use the site. - 10/24/2005 Hey guys and gals, <Hello again Clare> I have two totally different questions about the same, 75 gallon tank. <Alrighty> #1. Is there such a thing as too much filtration? I already have one Seaworld Systems Skimmer, I plan on getting a Berlin Hang On Skimmer, and a Skimmer comes built in with the AquaFuge PS Refugium. What do you guys think? <Well you're not going to over skim if that's what you mean. Keep in mind that every additional piece of equipment is something else to maintain (preferably weekly).> Also there will be the added filtration of the refugium, 79 lbs of live rock, and my Seaworld Systems Wet/Dry with up to 125 gallon capacity, too much filtration, or the more the merrier? <It seems unnecessary, but that is up to you. Weekly maintenance can take 15 min. or over an hour.> #2. I know it is probably a pretty long list... <quite> but could you guys name some corals that would fit well with my tank, it has 440 (~ 5.87 watts per gallon) watts of VHO, 2 blue actinics, 2 white actinics, and about 1100 gph of water flow, looking for some hardy but beautiful specimens? <Well, you've already mislabeled your lighting (white actinics?) which leads me to believe you should wait on any. Be that as it may, if you must make a purchase I would stick with the mushrooms and zoanthids.> #3. I don't know if the person who answers this has any experience with wet dry filters, but once I remove the bioballs (slowly) should I just leave the place where they were empty, or should I fill it with another sort of filtration, and if so what? <You can do either. You must decide what path you wish to follow here.> P.S. You guys own the greatest fish website on the net, be proud of it. <On behalf of Bob, the owner, thank you.> P.P.S. Do you guys know of any good places to purchase Chaetomorpha (sp?) for the fuge'? <Check out the links to all of the marine dealers/distributors in the livestock section.> Thanks a million, <Happy to help, but you must help us help you. Master what you have now before moving on. You must do the research in this hobby or else live in constant indecision. Please use more than the "Daily FAQ's" here. It will be worth more to you than any advice we give. Don't rob yourself of the wealth (in knowledge) that so many have tried so hard to amass. You owe it to yourself and you livestock to at least understand the basic ideas behind a system. - Josh> Many Questions! 10/19/05 Hi guys and gals,<hello!> I have a 75 gallon tank with a CPR Hang on Back refugium 6" DSB with assorted Caulerpa, and crushed live rock, (and many pods') I also have a Sea Life Systems Skimmer, and a Wet Dry (no bioballs) with a 125 gallon capacity. My water flow is about 1100 gph and the lighting is about 6 watts per gallon of actinic fluorescents, 2 white and two blue, on for about 12 hrs. per day. I have 79 lbs of Live Rock in the display (45 Fiji, 24 Tonga Branch) and a 1" sand bed. I change 15 - 20 gallons of water every two weeks.<sounds good!> My water parameters are as follows: pH: 8.3 Nitrate: 10 Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: 0 Calcium: 350 - 400 Salinity: < 1.025 Temperature: 79 - 82 (fluctuates gradually, two thermometers) <parameters look fine!> Livestock is as follows: Inverts: 5 Black Turbo Snails, 10 Nassarius Snails, 5 Blue legged Hermits, and one bubble tip anemone Fish: 3 Blue Green Chromis all 1 and 1/2 ", 2 Ocellaris Clowns 1", 1 Twinspot Goby 2", 1 Neon Goby < 1", 1 Royal Gramma 2", 1 Flame Angel 3", and a Pacific Blue Tang 2" I feed the fish a variety: Spirulina, Flakes, Pellets, Mysis, Brine (treat), Seaweed, Assorted crustacean flesh once in a while. I also have a QT! it is an Eclipse 12 which has really worked out well for me, no problems whatsoever.<this is a must!! especially with all of the LFS that do not QT their fish!> I just wondered what you guys thought of my setup, or had any tips or pointers, everything is doing great right now and I hope the same can be said for you guys. <I believe you are doing an excellent job, and it looks as if you have researched before you setup your aquarium! The QT Eclipse setup was a very good idea on your part...so many fish die each day/per year because of ich, bacterial infections etc. The majority of those fish could have been saved if they were treated in a QT aquarium. Good luck with everything!! IanB> Thanks, Clare Sick Two Spot <Wrasse> need help 9/5/05 I am somewhat new to the hobby of saltwater aquariums I have a two spotted wrasse that has begun acting strange spinning in circles barely above the sand. Any thought on what I should do or what may be causing this. <Is this a Coris aygula?> His color still looks good and he does not appear to have and wounds. I also have the following items in my tank snails crabs anemones <... not good> yellow tang blue tang tomato clown 6 damsels coral beauty The tank is 150 gallon and I have 125 lbs of live rock Thanks for any thoughts Trever <Please "plug in" the common names of the organisms you list above in the Google search tool on the homepage, indices on WWM... and read... You have some important input coming... the Coris wrasse grows to a few feet in length, the anemones... Bob Fenner> Mushroom Problems, Snails Drop Like Flies..? I have a 200 gal reef tank with around 300 lbs of live rock, the PH is at a constant 8.3, gravity perfect, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite all at zero, the lighting is 2 dual compact fluorescent hoods with a actinic and a 10,000k tube in each, the tank has about 1000 gph filtration with wet dry, mechanical and a refugium. I keep easier corals, like polyps, mushrooms, cauliflowers, etc. There are 4 damsels, a yellow tang, a hippo blue, various hermits and snails, and serpent stars. The problems is the mushrooms have not been looking absolutely great, should they be kept closer to the bottom or directly under the compacts? Also should I be adding supplements or not? <Lighting not very important... you could have more circulation, likely have excess end-products of nitrification with the wet-dry... I'd convert this or at least remove the biomedia> I have been adding Kent CoralVite, Lugol's solution about every other week, and C-balance. <For what reason/s? Do you test for these?> The one other problem is, I just got rid of a hair algae infestation by having to turn the lights off for like 2 months, I restocked the tank with my algae eating boys, scarlet hermits, Mexican red tipped hermits, turbo snails, mithrax crabs, and a few Astrea snails and Nassarius snails, but they have been slowly disappearing, I thought it may have been the water or maybe a slight electrical surge from some pump or something but there wasn't one, and the tube feather dusters coming off of the rocks are spreading like crazy, which I though would also be affected by this. The only thing I think may be the problem is I have caught shame-faced crabs that rode in on the rock, which was actually bought over a year and a half ago. Also maybe some time of pest shrimp, there is a certain part of the tank were something, I have not seen it yet, has been digging out a cavity under the rocks, and keeps it well dug. How can I get ride of these potential pests if they are the ones killing my algae eaters? Thank You John M. <You could trap them out... Time to send you to WWM... read re converting the WD... Don't turn your lights off... Bob Fenner> Reef & DSB Maintenance Hi! I guess I can't specify, but if I could, it would be to Mr. Fenner and Mr. Calfo. I am enjoying your new book Reef Invertebrates. I have been convicted about some things I'd like to change. <Interesting> A man at the LFS set me up and I trusted him but he was just a bit behind in his information. And now I know more and want to re-do a few things. Already have. I bought a skimmer, upgraded my lighting, installed fans in my hood and now I have a very stable temp all the time. You discuss deep sand beds. It makes sense and I'm having a tough time keeping clean the crushed coral. Plus every time I deeply siphon it I feel like I am sucking up some of the mandarin's food! I wish I didn¹t have to disturb it so like that! I am meticulous in my water changes. I thoroughly siphon the substrate, clean all filtration pads, pre-filters, etc. <Mmm, biological cleanliness is not sterility...> No trouble with the usual tests. Even nitrate is as low as it gets (Got the lowest when I removed all the Cell Pore's balls which were pretty yucky!) . No phosphorus, ammonia, nitrite, and this is after I followed your advice and took out the bio balls. I am waiting a while to take the bio wheel out just to be sure. I put in a refugium that has a nice deep sand bed with Gracilaria, Ulva, and Chaeto and tons of copepods and amphipods. Now I wish I could do it for my main tank. It is a 90 gallon with a Tidepool sump, with skimmer, UV, adequate pump, two powerheads, adequate lighting. The fish are Red Sea purple tang, blue hepatus tang, flame hawk, ruby-headed fairy wrasse, sailfin blenny, royal Gramma, 2 ocellaris clowns, mandarin, and a coral beauty. This is the last of the fish to be added with a desire to keep some easy corals. Do you think I am one of those overstocked? <You're right about there> And now for the questions about the sand/ crushed coral change. In the book you say pick one size of grain and stick with just that and try to get spherical. Did I understand this right? <Yes, this is ideal> So say I removed portions from week to week replacing with this sand. Yes I know it needs to be between 4-6 inches deep. Will all the junk stirred up removing the crushed coral and putting in that sand bother anyone? <Perhaps> Will the fish be really compromised? <Maybe> I do have a patch of green starburst polyps. That is the only coral. What method could you suggest for easy removal and minimal junk stirred up of the crushed coral? <A large diameter siphon to suck it up/out... a good sized container/s to allow the water to settle, decant back to the tank... and/or a bunch of water pre-mixed, matched for replacement> What is your suggested method for getting that live sand in there without a massive cloud? Or you may simply think I should leave it alone. I just wish I could do a simple water change without the incredible time put in to siphoning so long every week and just sit in front of the tank instead of always being IN the tank! And to find live sand... no one seems to sell the real live stuff in large quantities. It seems I just buy lots of some that supposedly has lots of bacteria in it. Then I am supposed to inoculate it with a small purchase of say, IPSF Å's Surfzone Live sand activator (what if that is a different size sand, though?). <No biggee> However, I did buy that once and stuck it in with my crushed coral and everybody in the tank thought it was great feeding and ate everything up. So are folks like me destined to be stuck with bad decisions made in the beginning or is there hope of a healthy, positive transition? <Mmm, you seem to be (along with myself, a few known others) in the small minority of folks that will read, learn "second" or other hand w/o having to personally experience less-favorable experiences first-hand...> Pardon all the detailed questions but I really want to do this right this time. Again, thank you for the book and when is the next one coming about the corals? I don¹t want to start purchasing them until I do some reading. Thank you again and I look forward to what you will share with me. Sincerely, Renee' <Do investigate, perhaps join a marine club, attend some of the "group of groups" club meetings likely IMAC, MACNA, the various marine conferences... for input, inspiration... You'll do fine, take your time... Bob Fenner> "Dirt" around live rock 4/15/05 Three weeks ago we set up our tank. 55 gal. with 50lbs. of live rock from 3 year old established tank with two green Chromis. The dealer knew the seller was moving and said they are very reliable. It had lots of pink and red coralline, beautiful. Rock even has the twig looking things that you say shows good care in a tank. <Great!> We have had no spikes and no drops. Everything has been kept perfect and I test every day. Temp at 78.4. <Everything? If you don't test alkalinity, please do! It is important in maintaining that beautiful coralline algae.> I have started to notice what looks like dirt coming out of rock and laying on the sand next to the rock. I think there is also some poop in it. I left my camera at the fish store yesterday so I cannot take a picture. Do you have any ideas? <It could be detritus from the rock or it could be the castings (misc wastes) from some critter living in the rock. Either way it is fine.> We added four Turbos yesterday but this was going on before they came into the picture. <No worries. This is just one of the many joyous mysteries of live rock! AdamC.> Reef set-up/planning questions 4/14/-5 Hi Anthony, <Cheers> Thanks a lot for the last reply. You gave me the impression I somehow was on the right track. Reassuring. I have a few more questions, I'll try to be as short as possible... -I've read somewhere on the WWM that MH bulbs should be changed each 2-5 years. That surprised me as I thought they needed to be changed each 12 months. Correct answer is once a year, right (and each 18 months for PC)? <Not exactly... it depends on the bulb. Some need changed after just a year of use, while many last longer. Some of the best ones retain over 90% of their efficiency for the full life of the bulb (over 4 years in some cases. I had one go almost 5 years)> -When buying a new MH bulb, there is a warning saying the bulb burns much brighter during the first 100 hours. <Correct> Does one have to let it burn 100 hours before use on the aquarium? <Nope... not needed. But do try to use a sheet or two of fiberglass fly screen (window fabric ) to diffuse light during the break in period> It means I'd have to turn hood upside down and illuminate the ceiling each night during a week, switching old and new bulb each evening/morning... Would be an annoying procedure. -If I go with daily water changes, would 1 or 2% per day be sufficient? <Larger weekly water changes would better help reduce nitrates, etc> -Can I use Selcon in FW as well? <Yes! Lipids/HUFAs are good for all> -How can we know that a certain fish we are buying (from a frequently captive bred species) is really tank bred and not imported? <There are no guarantees... but you must trust your LFS and your own good sense and intuition along with consumer research in advance> I trust my LFS, but I don't know the persons they're buying from... -If I use a Wave2K in my tank, can I place a central LR mound right on it (with clear space in front of vents of course) or do I still have to respect the 3" away minimum...? <I'm really not sure. Do ask of the mfg directly> -In what part of the sump should the evaporation make-up FW (from Osmolator) go ? In the first part with skimmer or in the last one close to the return pump? <The last stage> -Even though they are beneficial, I'm still not sure I want to see worms (bristle, spaghetti...) crawling around in my tank. Can I do as well without them with my DSB methodology (4" in display and in fuge)... <Yes> ...if I rely on Nassarius, micro brittle/serpent stars, amphipods to do the trick (stirring/aerating)? <Yeppers> -I got interested in sponges after going through the Porifera chapter of "Reef Invertebrates". With the mix of corals we already discussed in my last mail (Euphyllia, xenia, and Montipora digitata), could I still add a pretty blue/purple Haliclona sponge? <Yes... and be sure to give it high light and high water flow> And also one cryptic species to make use of the shady zones of my tank (36" hood on a 48" tank = dim light on top sides of tank...)? Here if you could recommend one or some species (I like tubular species or with holes able to provide shelter to other animals) that would fit with my mix (not too noxious) and places where to find them. They don't seem to be readily available... <Have you read the writings of Steve Tyree on the subject of cryptic refugia? Google until it hurts :)> -Should I forget about keeping a crocea clam and a Lysmata amboinensis in the same tank? <It is risky in the long term> And what about a single specimen of "micro-hermit"? Very likely to pick on the clam I guess... <I do not recommend hermits at all... they are too indiscriminate as feeders/predators> -About phytoplankton reactors. I have seen heavy set-ups with reactors on the net. I think I don't want to get too involved with these. Would it still be worth it to simply use a single 2l pop bottle dripping in the fuge (as seen in Reef Invertebrates, p.54) without adding culture media. Would only use a strain to start the culture with new seawater (made from RO-DI) and no additives and adding new seawater as need is to compensate for the drip. Would it still be useful? <Yes... it certainly can be :)> BTW is there not phytoplankton in the system anyway, especially when using a lighted fuge with macro-algae? <Yes... but there just is not enough produced naturally>> -Back to the subject of getting an ocellaris to host a coral in my tank. I tough I took a step in the right direction by forgetting about the BTA and use a coral substitute. <Excellent! thank you> Seems I'm dead wrong again with Euphyllia. With the set-up I'm planning, I wonder if it's even worth trying to have an ocellaris at all. Let's say I have 2 or 3 Euphyllia and an awful lot of xenia (hopefully:). I guess it's maybe possible that the ocellaris would favor xenia and only host the Euphyllia from time to time. <It is possible> Is it something possible to have the corals in a set-up "share the burden" of a clownfish thus being able to get along with it? <Rather than stress the corals... my advice is to forget about the mix in a garden reef tank, and set up a dedicated anemone tank, my friend> Ok, Thanks again!!! Dominique <Kindly, Anthony> Reef Grab Bag of Questions! Good morning! <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> We hope the day is beautiful in your neck of the woods! <Sure was! Hope yours is going well, too!> We are hoping that we can get some insight on a few areas for our reef. We have been through the threads extensively and can't seem to find a solid answer to our concerns. <I'll give it my best!> Lighting Concerns: We have a 92 corner system with one 400 MH pendant positioned about 10" above the tank. <Wow! That's a lot of light for this sized tank, IMO. Granted, many hardcore SPS nerds will agree and think that this is right, but it really can be excessive for many species not acclimated to it.> Our reef houses various soft and LPS corals (detailed below). Recently we have noticed that the Candy Cane has two heads that are dying out (it was positioned in the middle of the tank, when the first head started dying, I moved it closer to the light). The Fox Coral has always been at the bottom of the tank. We see that it is very slowly showing dead spots on each end (the coral is about 7" wide). The remaining portion of the coral appears healthy, but we are concerned. <Hmm.. a pattern is emerging here. Could be some sort of disease, but I'm thinking that it may be too much light..> We also recently lost two heads on the Hammer Coral. We thought that this was because it fell on the bubble coral. Now considering the Candy Cane, We am wondering it this coral is too close to the light as well. <That is my main theory at this point...> All of the other corals appear healthy. We are looking at the lighting and/or alkalinity as the tank parameters are steady at: Calcium = 450 PH = 8.0 - 8.3 Nitrite = 0 Ammonia = 0 The Alkalinity = 3.2 (Other possible culprit ~ Bottomed out and dropped to 1.5 and we have raised it 1.0 per day for the past two days, did 15% water change ~ dropped to 1.5 again with water change ~ raised again 1.0 per day for the past two days). <Fluctuating alkalinity is not a good thing...Could be that your buffering is being taxed. Are you dosing Kalkwasser or using a calcium reactor? Stability, even at the lower ends of the alkalinity range, is important, IMO. Stability is one of the keys to a successful system.> Lighting Questions: Is a 400 MH with a 36" T5 too much light for a 92 corner (24" depth) sitting about 10" from the water surface? <Well, could be too much for the corals that you keep. I suppose if you were trying to keep Porites or other super-demanding corals, this would be appropriate, but it could be problematic for some of the LPS corals...> Should the LPS corals be placed lower in the tank? <I would try this. Remember, many corals need careful acclimation to new lighting regimes, and moving moderate-light-tolerant corals into a high light situation without an acclimation period is problematic. Anthony Calfo has written extensively on this in his must-have "Book of Coral Propagation". Check it out!> We read in the threads that with too much light you can slowly kill your corals over the course of a year. We certainly don't want this to happen (our hearts as well as lots of $$ tied up in this endeavor!). We have found much information on coral placement but nothing specific to MH lighting vs. Fluorescent lighting. Could you please favor us with confirmation of appropriate placement of the corals detailed below 24" deep with 400 MH? <I'd move them into deeper water, or partially shade them to get more indirect lighting...> We have our lights on timers to turn on a 6:30 am and turn off at 8:30 pm. Is this too long? And, if not, can we run the lights to 10:00 pm? <I don't think so. Again- stability is good. A regular lighting schedule is fine, provided the lighting is appropriate.> It would allow us to enjoy our tank more in the evening when we are home. I turn the lights on at 6:30 am to accommodate the morning feeding before I leave for work. <I'd set the timer to come on around mid morning and stay on later for you to enjoy them...Again- stability and consistency are the key!> The refugium lights come on at 8:30 pm and run until 6:30 am. Is this correct? <Personally, I agree with your "reverse daylight" scheme...Helps keep the pH more constant.> Sand Bed Concerns: We have also read in the threads that too deep of a sand bed of mixed grain size can cause problems. We have about 3" of live sand, mostly coarse. This selection was chosen on recommendation at our local LFS and seems to please our yellow head jaw fish. We also have about 3-4" of live sand in the refugium which is soft, fine grade sand. <I am not personally over concerned about mixing grain sizes.> Sand Bed Questions: Do we need to increase the depth of our sand bed in either or both of the tanks? <If you want to. In a sand bed of 3 inches or more, good denitrification can easily take place. It's you call...> How often should we stir the sand bed(s), if at all? <I would not disturb a healthy sand bed, as you will disrupt the very processes that you are trying to foster..> Water Change Questions: <One of my favorite topics!> We use RO water and fill a 32 gallon bucket throughout the week. We keep a pump and heater in the bucket and change about 15% of the water weekly (Total system holds about 205 gallons and we change about 30 gallons weekly). <Nice schedule!> When we do the water change, we use a small power head to blow debris from the reef and take about 15 gallons from the 92, 10 gallons from the 40, and 5 gallons from the refugium. Is this the best way to do the water changes? <The best way is to simply do 'em! You're doing a really good job. If it's working for you, stay with it!> Fish Compatibility: We recently made a very poor purchase of a Purple LTA and 2 small Gold Band Maroon Clowns. The Purple LTA died within 3 days (not surprised based on all of the information in your threads and we realize it was a bad choice to begin with ~ hind sight and all...). <Sorry to here that. At least if you learned something, the animal will not have died in vain.> Any way, we are left with the 2 clown fish that are as endearing as your threads suggest. <They are great fishes!> They seem to hang out a lot with the bubble coral now. Your articles and threads indicate that these guys will get pretty large and potentially aggressive, taking on the role of King of the Tank. <Entirely possible!> How bad of a choice is it to leave the clowns with the corals and mix of reef fish in our tank? Although we find them to be wonderful at this small size, we really do want to achieve a solid balance in our system. <Unfortunately (or fortunately), there are no guarantees in the animal world. Even though these fish have a reputation for aggressiveness, they can be perfect citizens as well! Fish, like people, are individuals, and do not always conform to our expectations for their behavior.> Pump Power: We have purchased spray bars for the 92 reef, but find that our CA-4000 does not create a strong enough return through the bars reducing the flow to a mere trickle. What size pump would we need to accommodate the spray bars in the tank? <Hmm...a tough call. I'd rather see a more powerful pump than you think that you need, with a good ball valve to dial it down as needed.> The tank has two smaller powerheads placed mid tank that run in 15 minute alternating intervals and a powerhead at the top opposite of the return line. We were hoping the spray bars would eliminate dead spots in the tank. <A well-placed spray bar can do a great job at moving water throughout the system. Be sure to keep it free of clogging coralline algae growths.> There are spray bars on the Horse House creating a very gentle current which I understand is great for the Horses, but is it also alright for our coral selection in the Horse House? <Well, alternating (not laminar) flow is great for most coral..> I know that I am probably asking WAY to many questions. <Nah.. it's okay- that's what we're here for!> If you choose to answer we are very grateful! THANK YOU FOR YOUR WONDERFUL WEBSITE! <You're welcome! Glad to hear that!> Tank specifics: 92 gallon bow front reef with built in overflow - Reef System - 400 MH ~ 1 36" T5 ~ 150 + of live rock ~ @3" deep bed of live sand ~ 2Powerheads mid tank on 15 minute alternating intervals (timer) ~ 1powerhead running at top opposite return line FISH: Powder Blue Tang (4"), Splendid Pseudochromis, Lawnmower Blenny, Pink Spot Watchman Goby, Target Mandarin, 2 Purple Fire Fish, Yellowhead Jaw Fish, Cherry Red Flame Hawk, 3 Neon Gobies, Pair of Small Maroon Clowns, Six Line Wrasse, and 4 Catalina Gobies. <Nice mix> CORALS: Various Mushrooms (Red, Blue, Green Stripe, Hairy, Elephant), 3 Colors of Star Polyps, Waving Hand Xenia, Toadstool Leather, Yellow Toadstool Leather, Cabbage Leather, Spaghetti Leather, Fox Coral, Candy Cane Coral, Hammer Coral, Kenya Tree Coral, Torch Coral, Bubble Coral, Blue Maxima Clams, Orange Zoos & Other Assorted Polyps. <A nice, albeit somewhat unnatural mix of corals...Perhaps a lower wattage of halide might be more suitable...> OTHER CRITTERS: Coral Banded Shrimp, 2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 3 Peppermint Shrimp, 3 Emerald Mithrax Crabs, 1 Sallie Lightfoot Crab, 3 Christmas Tree Worm Rocks, 4 Hawaiian Feather Dusters, 1 Pink Cocoa Worm, 1 Red Knobby Star, 1 Orange Star, 2 Brittle Stars, 1 Sand Sifting Star, Numerous & Various Snails, Hermit Crabs, & 1 Pink Knobby Cucumber. 40 gallon tall reef with built in overflow - Horse House - Coralife Lunar Aqualight (130 W) PC @ 35-40 lbs of live rock ~ Refugium Mud Bed with 3-4" deep bed of live sand CRITTERS: 4 Black Reidi Seahorses, 2 Yellow Reidi Seahorses, 2 Blood Red Fire Shrimp, 1 Sand Sifting Star, 1 Purple Linckia Star, and 3 Peppermint Shrimp. CORALS: Various Mushrooms, Colt Coral, Yellow Toadstool Leather, Spaghetti Leather, Star Polyps, Waving Hand Xenia, Orange Zoos & Other Assorted Polyps. The SET-UP: The 92 & 40 Gravity Feed to a Bucket housing the Mag 7 Pump direct feeding the AquaC EV-180 Protein Skimmer The Protein Skimmer overflows into a 29 Gallon Sump with about 35-40 lbs of Live Rock & 150 W Heater The 29 Gallon Sump (lit at night with a 36" - T5) overflows into a 5 Gallon Tank used as an overflow to the 60 Gallon Refugium (filled to about 40 Gallons, lit at night with a Coralife Lunar Aqualight (192 W) PC) which overflows into another 5 Gallon Tank housing a CA-2200 (returning to the Horse House) & a CA-4000 (returning to the 92 Reef) The Refugium houses: Snails, Sand Sifting Star, & 2 Cleaner Shrimp with a 3-4" live sand bed, and a 500 W Titanium Heater. Todd & Jenn <Sounds like a nice system! Keep up the good work! Regards, Scott F.> Sick eels, please help I have a 300 gallon salt water live
reef tank. About two weeks ago my wolf eel (had it for 6 months)
started hiding, just laying around in one spot and stop eating. He is
sick. <Mmm, not necessarily... and this fish is not a true eel, but
a Dottyback family member> I asked the guy that takes care of my
tank, what is going on? He does not know too much about eels, just that
it happens. When I lived in Hawaii I had a 150 salt water tank with a
zebra eel for 8 years, he never got sick. <Gymnomuraena zebra is a
great aquarium species> Well, today my snow flake eel (I've had
him for 9 months) is lying on it's side, I think he is dead. he was
fine yesterday. The odd thing about this is that the snowflake eel is
lying on the sand and the wolf eel is lying on top of the snow flake
eel. <Coincidence likely> Please tell me what you think is going
on. Thank you, Robin <Strange loss... I take it you check your water
quality often, feed all well... perhaps something the one ate, or
touched... Bob Fenner> Looking for advice please Hail, almighty wetweb gurus! Thank you again for your wonderful site, of which I have spent much time perusing. It's such a great resource for newbie marine aquarists like myself. Anyway, now that I have buttered you up, I was wondering if you could please answer a few questions I have, the answers of which I have not been able to find. I will split them into a few paragraphs, as they relate to different areas (but I guess they are all inter-related too). <Sheesh! Enough obeisance already!> Nitrate question: I have a new 50 gallon tank, about two months old, in which I am keeping 3 seahorses, and two purple firefish. Current readings are 0.0 ammonia, 0.0 nitrites, 20 nitrates, 8.3 pH and 10225 SG. I haven't done my KH and Ca this week (I know, I suck), so I can't give you those readings. Phosphates are around 0.0. Sand-bed depth is approx 2". I have been unable to get my nitrate reading below 20ppm since my tank 'cycled' - although I am sure it is still cycling, or rather, settling into a rhythm of sorts. I do a 10% water change weekly, which also has no effect on the nitrates. I don't believe that over-feeding is an issue - I feed ½ cube frozen Hikari Mysis shrimp in the morning, and the other half of the cube at night. Very rarely are any pieces left over. I rinse the Mysis in tank water prior to feeding out. I cycled my tank with LR - ammonia never got above 0.3 during the cycling process, and nitrites were barely detectable. Nitrates were 0.0 for about 4 days, then shot up to 20 and stayed there. I added the firefish 3 weeks ago, and the seahorses last Saturday (5/14/05). Do you know what else could be causing my unmovable nitrate readings? <Yep> Would it make a difference if I did two 5% water changes weekly, rather than one 10%? <Not much> Or even two 10% weekly? <Nope> Or is this just part of the whole 'new tank' phenomenon? Should I add some kind of nitrate sponge? I know nitrates are not as toxic to livestock, but I would rather get the levels down to 5 or below, if possible. Thank you in advance for your help. <Many possible steps to lowering nitrate, discovering its source/s... posted on... WWM> Dinoflagellate question: I had a minor diatom bloom about a week after I added livestock. This has cleared up now, as the tank settles in. However, after reading through your FAQ's, I am wondering if I now have a dinoflagellate problem. <Doubtful... and is likely diatom, not dino-based> I am sorry, I don't have a pic to show you; however, there is a brown, mildly 'stringy', soft-looking algae substance growing on my glass and LR. It has what look like air bubbles trapped through it. In fact, there are air bubbles all over my LR - is this a sign of a problem, or is it normal? <More normal> The brown algae stuff doesn't appear extremely aggressive, but it is omnipresent, and, well, to sound petty, it makes my tank look ugly. Are dinoflagellates toxic? <Some> My livestock seem fine, but I don't want them to get sick. Also, our LFS recently sold us new lighting - but instead of full spectrum white globes, sold us lights with more red (as well as blue actinics). They said that instead of selling full spectrum, they preferred to split the spectrum into separate lighting components. <Let them> Anyway, the red lighting made all the nuisance (and good) algaes bloom (surprise, surprise). We have changed back to the full spectrum, and now things seem to be under better control. I have read on your site that adding Kalkwasser to increase the pH can help reduce the presence of dinoflagellates. <Actually all phosphate using life> My LFS has sold me a buffer called Kalk, which I don't think is the same thing. I am sorry, I can't remember the company who makes it - could be Aquastar, or Aquasonic, or something like that. <Write us back after you've done your testing, reading...> It's in powder form, and it claims NOT to interfere with pH. Well, they lied. It does increase pH - but it does also seem to have a strong buffering capacity. Anyway, the question in all this is: Should I use this 'Kalk' stuff to increase my pH to reduce the (supposed) dinoflagellates problem...or should I drip Kalkwasser? If so, how much? What else can I do to reduce the problem? <Posted... on WWM> Sorry, sorry, I know I have a lot of questions...you can go get a coffee at this point, if you like. I'll wait ;-) Trace element question: I do not, at present, add any trace elements to my water. I use filtered seawater (from the LFS) to perform my 10% weekly water changes. Do I need to add anything else? <Not likely> If so, what would be best? I don't have (or plan to add) any corals. I just want healthy fish. Um, I think that's it for now. Thank you so much in advance for any help or advice that you can give. I really appreciate it. Melinda <Where, when in doubt... study. Become facile with our indices, the Google search tool... much for you to know, understand... that is inter-related. Bob Fenner> Reef System Suggestions Hello crew! I am about to add some inhabitants to my 29gal. reef tank. Here are the specs: Amiracle skimmer run by a Hagen 201 powerhead, Aqua Clear 200 filter with just a pouch of Phos X, no other media, Power Sweep 20 for circulation as well as a ViaAqua 1300, Coralife Compact 2-65wt, 1 actinic and 1- 10,000K. Temp is 80, 1.024 spec. gravity, PH 8.3, NH4 0ppm, NO2 0ppm, NO3 40ppm, <A bit high... would endeavor to keep below twenty ppm> PO4 2ppm <Way too high!> and Ca is 400ppm. The last 3 are an issue that have been driving me crazy, and leading to sporadic outbreaks of Cyanobacteria. These values are 48hrs after a 30% water change using distilled water. I cannot get the nitrate and phosphate down and the calcium always seems low. Any ideas on how to correct these issues? <Posted... on WWM> The current occupants of the tank are: @15lbs of live rock, yellow button polyps, green star polyps, pink leather coral, 1 peppermint shrimp that molts monthly, large brittle starfish and 1 sandsifting starfish the size of a dime - hitchhiker I guess, he was a surprise, 6 blue legged hermit crabs, 1 Astrea snail. I am planning to add more live rock, coral and macroalgae. Any suggestions? <Posted...> Also would like to add 3-4 small fish. I'm thinking about a Catalina goby and orchid Dottyback. Also saw a damsel that was labeled as Royal, yet that is not the fish I find listed as such on the web. The body is the same but the color is the same blue and orange as on a Fiji devil. If I can find some info on this damsel I would like to add that also if it is well suited and compatible. Any suggestions on these or other fish would be greatly appreciated. One last note, this tank did have fish in it prior, I lost them all to an ick outbreak. I believe the outbreak was from a combination of overcrowding, temp. change and possibly high nitrates and phosphates(?). <And the introduction of the pathogen... from a lack of quarantine, prophylactic dip/bath...> Your input on the best way to restock and continue my little piece of the ocean would be great. Thanks, Caryn <Fix your water chemistry first. There is a source of nutrient... what is it? Bob Fenner> Re: Tank question Dear AdamC, Thank you very much for you advice. I'm very sorry that I've insulted your family with the non-use of live rock and my dislike of the creepy crawly things!!!!! :) The last thing I wanted to do is insult you!!!! :) When we were overrun with bristleworms in our 55 gal, we did have an undergravel filter with lots of detritus underneath. That is probably what the issue was. I will not be using an undergravel again. <Ha! No real insult taken! Undergravel filters are no longer widely used in saltwater tanks for many reasons, and it may have contributed to your bristle worm population.> Adam...Ok say I want to join the buggy side of saltwater keeping again... Join the DARK SIDE!!!! :) What would I need for my tank? I want to do this right. The tank will not be set up until next year, but I want to get all of my stuff first. of course the live rock will be the last expense for the tank, but at least I can get all of my dry goods in order. <The basics for any marine tank are: tank, skimmer and live rock. Sumps are nice, strong lighting needs to be added for corals and sand is optional (see comments below).> How much live rock? There is a dealer in our area. He has cured and non-cured live rock in huge tubs. I don't know what kind of LR is it. I don't know how reputable he is either. What do you suggest? <Quality live rock is available from many sources. I would suggest enough to fill about 1/3 of the volume of the tank. This is usually about 1.5lb per gallon. "Kaelini" and Marshall Islands rock tends to be more "open structured" and takes less weight to get the same volume, but costs a bit more. Fiji is a bit more "bouldery" and dense, but cheaper. I would suggest going to your dealer and picking pieces that have interesting shapes that look like they will stack well (some dealers charge a premium for this privilege, but it is often worth it.)> What kind of sand is the best to use? Where do I get it??? I'm on the East Coast. I would like to have the fine DSB. How much do I need to get for a 36x18x16 tank? Would 80 # of the Home Depot South Beach play sand suffice for a 3" bed? <If you choose a fine sand bed, "Southdown" sand from home depot is a marvelous choice, and #80 should get you up to about 3", but I would try for an initial depth of 4-5".... Keep in mind that it settles about 25% in the first couple of months.> Would I need a protein skimmer? If so what kind do you suggest for hang on tank installation. Had one of these before and it was totally useless. Never got anything in the foam cup and it was horribly loud. Hope they work better than in previous years. <There are very few hang on skimmers that work well. The CPR backpack is decent and very reasonably priced. The Aqua-C Remora is much better, but more expensive. Deltec makes a hang on skimmer that works very well, but you may have to take a loan to buy it!> I still want to use 2 Aquaclear 300 filters. I really do love them. Would I still use carbon inserts/ChemiPure with the live rock??? <I would run carbon only. Be sure to remove and rinse the filter elements frequently to prevent detritus build up.> I have a single fluorescent 36" light strip. Is that sufficient for the LR and fish? I currently only run the lights for about 6-8 hours or so. No sense on having lights on if we are not there to watch them. Although the room that the tank will be in does receive some light in the AM hours. <No problems here. If the rock starts to turn white, the coralline and other algae on it aren't getting enough light. If this occurs, I would lengthen the photoperiod to 8-10 hours.> How do I clean the LR? Turkey baster????? Do you clean LR???? <I blast around my rock with a turkey baster every couple of weeks and I vacuum it when I do water changes. Nothing else is needed.> When I get the live rock...Do I need to epoxy it together to create a more stable home??? <You can do this, but if you stack well it isn't necessary. You can also use plastic "Zip-ties" or cable ties. They are available in the electrical section of home improvement stores and even come in black. Be careful not to get the ones with metal in them.> Do I still need airstones and air pump in the tank with the live rock or will the surface motion from the filters and possible powerhead suffice?? <I would avoid airstones because of the mess of salt creep. Even for fish only, I would suggest at least 10x the tank volume in water movement. This and a skimmer should provide plenty of gas exchange. With all of the pumps running, you should see a good bit of surface agitation.> In regards to a cleaning crew for the sand, do I need to add iodine to the water mix or will the water changes replenish that for the invertebrates? What kind of invertebrates would I need or would you suggest???? I do want to keep the bristleworms and the white worms populations in check. <IMO, the only additives that are necessary are calcium and alkalinity (even for fish only!) to keep the coralline algae healthy and control other algae as well as stabilizing the pH. All other elements will be replenished with regular water changes. I would suggest a single sand sifting cucumber and maybe a couple of serpent (smooth armed) stars. I would avoid sand sifting fish and "sand sifting" stars, since these are both predatory on sand bed critters.> I do not have an RO unit. Hubby and I used to have one for the 55 gallon. We wasted so much water with that system. To fill up a 20 gallon garbage can, it would take 4 days with the water at full blast. The RO unit wasted so much water and our bills were outrageous. They were over $250 a month. I don't think hubby would want another RO unit in the house.. <Yikes!!! Much more efficient RO units are available, and waste water can be used for watering plants, laundry, etc. You may also consider a DI unit which wastes no water. If you have public water, you can contact your utility for a typical water analysis. As long as it is free (or very low) in phosphate, copper and other metals, you should be able to use it after simply dechlorinating it.> What would I have to do to maintain the tank? I know water changes and filter changes, but would I have to vacuum the sand? <Fine sand shouldn't be vacuumed. Too much sand is sacrificed, and a good population of critters should keep it very clean.> As far as fish in the tank....I would like to have a ocellaris clown, royal Gramma, 6 lined wrasse, (pygmy, Lemonpeel or flame angel), and a goby or 2 for the 40 gallon. Is this bioload OK? <Sounds great!> I am also used to doing the fishless cycle method with ammonia. Would I have to add ammonia with the live rock in the tank for cycling? <This is not necessary. Anything that dies on the live rock will produce enough ammonia for the cycle. If you get cycled rock locally, you may not see any significant cycle and can start adding fish (slowly!) in about a week or so.> Sorry for so many questions. I'm sure you get the same questions day after day!!!! I just want to get this right. I want to be able to enjoy the tank and not do much maintenance on it on a weekly basis. If I missed anything, please include it with your response. Thank you again for your help!!!! Jennifer <I am glad to help out! We are here because we want to see you succeed too! Best Regards. AdamC.> Safe Parameters Dear: James (Salty Dog) <Hello> Thank you so much for your speedy reply & concern. The fish that were in the 10 gallon tank (now in Q tanks) were a small mated pair of domino damsels & a small false percula clown. I realize that a 10 gallon is WAY too small for these fish, so I have set up a 55 gallon reef tank for them, for once they get a clean bill of health. Do you think that 1 clown fish in a 10 gallon, 1 bubble tip & a small amount of soft coral (leathers for example) would be pushing it? <Not with adequate filtration. You should be fine. I don't like to see anemones in tanks this small. Parameters can change too fast. The leathers should be fine.> . . As for the flower pot coral, ....I bought it on the advice of the owner of my LFS, in fact I bought 2. (Big Mistake) I am trying to care for these corals the best that I can, (reef supplements, phytoplankton, good lighting, water flow, etc). I have had them for 2 months, & they seem to be doing well despite their difficult reputation. Any advice on their care would be greatly appreciated. <These corals always seem to start out nicely, then, as time goes by they gradually decline in health. People that have had luck with them have large understocked (fish) tanks and excellent lighting. The Wet Web Media has plenty of info on the keeping of flower pot corals. Do a Google search.> Will lowering the salinity & increasing the temperature be detrimental to the flower pot & bubble tip? <Just needs to be done gradually. James (Salty Dog)> Mixing and Matching Methodologies - + 9 Questions Dear Crew, <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> I have had saltwater fish for 3.5 years now. Startup has been difficult, I have had some real bad advice from several LFS and well meaning friends. I have learned two things. Everybody has an opinion, and it may not be correct, and also nothing good ever happens quickly, even if it is for the betterment of the tank. <Two truths that will serve you well in your hobby "career"> With that being said, I do hope you folks can assist me on getting things on the right track. <We'll do our best!> This is a wonderful WEB site, and I have spent much time here trying to fix my own problems. I have read so many of your answers to different problems, I feel I can trust your opinions on all issues. <Well, as we always advise our readers, take any and all advice with a grain of salt and a healthy dose of skepticism...In the end, you need to be comfortable with any advice that you receive from anyone...Even us!> I have several questions, which I have not been able to find absolute answers for, or I am a little confused. I will start by telling you the tale of my two fish tanks. My first tank is a 35g hex, and is 3.5 years old. It was started as a "reef" tank with the following: 2" Aragalive coarse substrate, 55 lbs live rock, Fluval 304 canister, Sea clone 100 skimmer, Rio 600 and Rio 200 for added circulation. I had 1 BTA, two Clownfish, one Cleaner Shrimp, one Blood Shrimp, 5 Turbo Snails, one black Brittle Starfish, and two Damsels. I soon found that a 35 hex is not a good tank to do a "reef" in. I then purchased a 70g Clarity Plus "All in one filter in the base stand" type of tank. I purchased it used for 200 bucks, and the previous owner did not have any luck with the tank either. The past owner told me he never figured out "The Salt Thing". The tank had three chambers in the base/sump. One for a DLS roll, and one for Bioballs, and one for a return pump. <Wow...straight out of the eighties! DLS and bioballs are some of the few eighties phenomena that I don't like...If not managed well, these materials can accumulate nitrates and assist in deteriorating the good water quality that you're aiming for..> I wanted to move my BTA into this tank, with the other reef critters from my 35g hex. It is a real pretty acrylic tank, and I thought I would be able to work out the problems, without a problem! I could figure out "That Salt Thing", and it would run fine, right? The It wasn't working at all. The chemistry of the tank was always poor. <IN what way? Nitrate, ammonia, nitrite?> I had two damsels in the tank after 3 months, so I knew it wasn't a "Load" problem. So I slowly removed the DLS roll, and Bioballs. Tried to make the tank a "Berlin System" style tank. <A better methodology than the plastic filter media techniques...> I added the following equipment: The built-in corner overflow, which goes into the base sump with a Magdrive 950 to return the water, a Berlin Turbo 250gph skimmer in the sump, 120 lbs of live rock, 1-2" Fiji Pink sand, I don't know the size, with 25-30 lbs of crushed coral and shell added to the substrate, a Rio1100, and a Rio 600 for added tank circulation. I wanted to add my BTA to this tank. I have for lighting a custom hood, which came with the tank, and I did a retrofit kit of Icecap 660 ballast, 4 VHO URI 110 watt 48" tubes less than 4" from top of tank. I have 2 super actinic and 2 white actinic 12,000 Kelvin bulbs. <Good lighting system, but possibly a bit inadequate for long-term success with the anemone in many circumstances.> The current animal load is as follows: 2 Banggai Cardinal Fish, both 1.5" 1 Cleaner Shrimp 8 Turbo Snails 1 Derasa Clam 4-5" long Some blue and red Mushroom Corals, about 4 square inches in the whole tank 1 Open Brain Several pulsing Xenia clusters. Things were looking better, then I had some health problems. I was unable to care for either tank for almost a year. I put in food, added top-of water, and added iodine, calcium, buffers and top off water. I was able to clean the protein skimmers once a week. <Always a good move...> I changed the charcoal three or four times. <Activated carbon, right...?> As bad as this sounds, I know you probably want me executed for such neglect. <Nah...I've seen a LOT worse! And you had a valid reason!> I tried to do what I could for the tanks at the time, but none of my friends or husband know anything about fish. I could only instruct them how to do the very basics for my animals. I have to tell you all the embarrassing truth so you can possibly help me to put things right. <Not a problem...We all learn from our mistakes (hopefully). Every one of us has learned from the "school of hard knocks"! Your sharing hear on WWM will benefit others, so no bad experience is ever wasted!> When I was able, the first thing I did was a water change for both tanks. I bumped the pump in the 35 hex, and it moved. The next day, my anemone, who had survived the neglect, was sucked up into a Penguin pump I have since thrown away. The anemone did not survive, I am sad to say. <A real tragedy...sorry to hear that.> I will be moving both tanks to our new home in a few weeks, and when I break them down one at a time, it would be a perfect time to fix some of my past set up errors, and neglect issues. I have read WWM tips on moving. When I move the tanks, I would like to place all of the "reef critters" into the 70g tank, and in time, add another BTA. <Perhaps you should start with an inexpensive, hardy, and far more abundant Condylactis anemone. Not as "sexy" as the BTA, but a much better choice when you are starting out with cnidarians. You still need to study up on their husbandry. All anemones are precious resources and their care should not be taken lightly.> With the 35 hex, I would like to do a FOWLR tank, and keep 1 or 2 Fuzzy Dwarf Lionfish. I will be purchasing a new protein skimmer for each tank, by Aqua-C, start pre-mixing my water, I just purchased a 5 stage R/O system (I didn't do this before, I just mixed water and salt just before use. I didn't know any better:) <Another good lesson learned...!> I will buy the Aqua-C Urchin Pro for my 70 g and the Aqua-C Remora Pro for the 35 hex. 1. Should I remove the substrate from the 70g? I mixed large chunky stuff, and fine sand. I would like to do a DSB, should I just start from scratch? <I suppose I'd start from scratch at this juncture> I do have tubeworms and stuff in the substrate I have now, but could I eliminate some of my nitrate problems here? <A sand bed that is too shallow may not provide full denitrification, and some more coarse substrates can accumulate excessive detritus and degrade water quality. It's definitely worth reading about sand bed methodology to get it right the first time> What size do you recommend, and what brand? <I like CaribSea "Aragamax Sugar Fine" sand.> I can't just add substrate on top of what I already have, correct? <You could, but I'd prefer to mix it, myself, if you are intent on keeping your existing substrate> 2. When your crew says coral and anemones don't mix due to allelopathy, does this mean that I should find homes for the few corals I do have? <In smaller water volumes, the dangers posed by allelopathy are very real. It is not advisable to mix corals and stinging cnidarians in the same tank, especially one that is not huge, IMO. Better to "specialize" in one type of animals or the other...> Would a few of the mushrooms be that bad? <A few, but you really need to be on top of things in the water quality/husbandry department> If I run charcoal would it be better? <You mean carbon, of course? Activated carbon can help remove some organics and possible allelopathic compounds.> Does no corals mean like... none? <Lots of hobbyists mix; I just don't like the idea, myself. To me, it does mean "none". You may need to go with your instincts on this one, but that's where I'm coming from.> Could I add some "plants" to the main aquarium, so it doesn't look so bleak? Perhaps some Gracilaria or Chaetomorpha? Could you suggest some nice looking stuff? <You could, but these are generally "free-floating" species and can make a mess if not contained. Great macroalgae, but best suited for your sump or refugium, IMO. I'd use Halimeda in a tank situation. It's beautiful and a good indicator of your calcium level (they love calcium).> 3. What sort of substrate for Lionfish, or just leave what I have alone? <Not really crucial, as long as it's kept relatively clean> What how deep for such heavy feeders? Can I add a "clean up crew"? What works with Lionfish? <You could, but I'd avoid any shrimp, which can become an expensive snack for the Lions.> I found "Not to Have" animals, like shrimp, crabs and snails. What could I add? <Maybe an Urchin or some Brittle Stars.> 4. Do I have the correct Kelvin for clams and anemones? <Yes, but intensity is just as important for these animals. I would feel better about your efforts to keep an anemone if you chose metal halide as your light source. 10,000k is a good all-around spectrum for the animals you're talking about.> From the WEB site, it looked like I had it all wrong. How would you suggest I correct this? 2 6500k and 1 10,000, 1 8800k? What combination would you suggest? <Personally, I'd stay with 10,000K> I have a Derasa clam, and would like to add a Squamosa and perhaps a Maxima to the top of the tank? <If you can provide optimum lighting, calcium supplementation and water quality...> 5. Is there anything else you might add/subtract from these setups? <I think that you're on the right track, but I would carefully re-consider your animal combinations to avoid problems, as we discussed previously.> 6. I purchased Rio pumps to assist with the circulation, because the intake looked like it was better, with a smaller grate on it. Are these good pumps to have with anemones? <Powerheads always present some degree of risk with animals such as anemones, which do "wander"> If not would the Tunze be better? <I love Tunze Streams, but the same potential problems can arise...Powerheads are potentially problematic with anemones.> How can I better protect my anemone from such havoc? <I might be inclined to recommend a closed loop or manifold setup for additional circulation to avoid the problems presented by powerheads.> 7. With a DSB, you do not recommend doing a 'gravel vacuum' when changing water on the tank? <I would not disturb anything but the top 1/2" or so in a DSB, lest you disrupt the very processes that you are trying to foster...> How about a Lionfish tank? Vacuum, or not to vacuumed? <I'd lightly vacuum the top layer of sand, as above...> 8. I am going to try to find room and access to the back of my 70g tank, to do a plenum in one of the sections. <A plenum is designed to cover the entire length of the tank's sandbed. Do read up on their proper design, construction, and implementation if you intend to use one. There is a very precise methodology to a plenum; if you don't follow the prescribed techniques you will not have good results. Check up on plenum advocate Bob Goeman's saltcorner.com web site for lots of information on plenums.> Do I have to add light? Can I just add Miracle Mud and live rock? <In a refugium, you could. It's all up to you. I would not do too much "mixing and matching" of filtration methods. Sometimes, such "fusions" of techniques don't always accomplish what we think they will; in fact, they may function less efficiently than the methods that they draw upon if used separately.> I am afraid of the heat build up in the base/sump area, and it is wet in there. Does this work without light? <Light is not always necessary for live rock in a refugium; different creatures will populate it in different lighting situations. The "Miracle Mud" technique depends on macroalgae growth, which means that you will need a light...> 9. I have not purchased anymore animals. I don't plan to, until I am able to work out these issues. <Excellent> If there is something animal or equipment change you would recommend, please do so. I need welcome ideas for these tanks. <Soo many different techniques to choose from. You really need to study the various methodologies that are being used, and choose one that appeals to you. Stick to it!> I have read many books, by Tullock, Wilkerson, Moe, Borneman, and Baensch. Times change, and so does equipment and knowledge. It is difficult to stay current on new ideas and such. <That's the beauty of the internet, and of a site like WWM...You should also check out the many discussion boards on the 'net, such as WWM Chat Forum, reefcentral, etc., where you can mix and mingle with many fellow hobbyists and compare notes and ideas...> I would like to thank you in advance for your time and reply to my letter. I have had some really bad advice, but I am hoping that with your help, I can be a better aquarium owner. Robyn <Thanks for the kind words, Robyn. I guess my best advise is to keep doing what you're doing...Research current techniques and follow one that you feel will help you achieve your goals for the animals that you intend to keep. Arm your self with knowledge, and proceed with your eyes wide open! As you acknowledge, there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Do your best to sort through it. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Problems with Refugium/Cyano My refugium is starting to get a scummy kind of reddish algae with bubbles on top of the water. <<Cyanobacteria most likely.>> I'm assuming its bad and wondering how to get rid of it and stop it from returning. Thanks! <<It's an eyesore for US, and it's a sign of an unhealthy system, especially in regards to nutrient export/control. Put "Cyanobacteria" and "marine algae", "nuisance algae" into the Google bar at top of our home page. Glory in the VAST (and I do mean vast) results you will find, follow all leads, then act. Marina>> Algae in Fuge... fighting BGA mixed in with Algae My refugium is being taken over by that red cotton candy algae, due to a bag of Chaeto I got from a friend. The Chaeto had some of this algae in it, unknown to me until it was too late. Lesson learned. <Yes> Now the red stuff is totally interwoven within the strands of the Chaeto in my refugium. Since I am not sure whether or not this algae can go sexual and spread into my main tank, I took my refugium off line tonight, removed all of the Chaeto and as much of the red cotton candy as possible. Then I introduced 10 Mexican turbo snails to finish the job. I have a Magnum 350 canister filter running carbon and Polyfilter to provide water quality for the snails and pods and worms in the sand. My refugium is a 55 gallon tank with a 6 inch sandbed and maybe 20 pounds of live rock. There are no fish in it, just snails, pods, worms, mini stars, etc. After the red cotton candy algae is gone I will drain the refugium down to the sand and replace 100% of the water above the sand. <Okay...> Question 1: Is the Magnum canister filter, along with the sandbed and live rock enough to keep the water quality ok ? <Likely so> Question 2: Should I keep the lights off to stave off the growth of the cotton candy algae, or do I need to keep the lights on for some reason? <Not enough reason to leave on> Question 3: What else have I forgotten to do? <Perhaps to consider that this "stuff" is actually a Cyanobacteria... not likely to be consumed by the snails... more easily defeated over time through competition, conditions that favor Thallophytes. Bob Fenner> Poor water flow on new tank? 5/4/05 I checked the cycling and algae FAQs and couldn't find my problem specifically answered. I have recently cycled 30 lbs of Lalo live rock from DFS. My setup is as follows 20 gal AGA Hagen Aquaclear 70 powerfilter - with a polypad (recent addition), small amount of carbon and live rock rubble in the box 2 MaxiJet 400 powerheads CPR BakPak 2R 1 55W blue , 1 55W 10000K power compacts 10 hour photoperiod Plan a 15% water changes every 2 weeks. <Or more water... I do large weekly water changes in my small reef aquarium> I tanked the rock by itself and allowed it to fully cure - approximately 3 weeks to zero ammonia, nitrite. I had an enormous ammonia spike that lasted so long (2 weeks) that nitrites were already on the decline when the ammonia hit zero. This even with periodic 25% water changes throughout the cycle. I believe it may have killed anything that was alive on arrival - as I have seen little evidence of any worms or microfauna in the tank or substrate, plenty of worm tubes but no worms. The coralline faded quite a bit but there is still significant coverage in red, pink, purple and light green that I hope will come back strong. At the end of the cycle I did a 50% water change and added approx 1.5 - 2 inches aragonite sand - half oolitic, half slightly larger. Waited 1 week. I drip acclimated and added 8 red hermits and 10 snails (Turbo, Astraea, Trochus). They are keeping the rock and glass clean - but dropping enormous amounts of excrement all over the sand and rock - do I need to be siphoning this off regularly? <Well.. sort of. Please do siphon it out when you see it. But then again... if you can see it accumulating, it is a sign that this tank has a serious deficiency in water flow. All such solids should be kept in suspension for use by filter feeders, export by skimmers, etc> Approx 2 days after adding the cleanup crew - I noticed a slimy substance covering nearly every plastic surface in the tank - in some places 1/8" thick. A thinner layer on the back glass. It is mat like and colorless and gelatinous - looks almost like mucous. The PolyFilter pad was completely impregnated with it and my skimmer and powerfilter were coated internally on all surfaces. No algae bloom yet, and water parameters (below) look pretty good (if not perfect) to me. I cant figure out what this mucous substance is. I believe that 1 snail may be MIA - I haven't been able to find all 10 at one time, or all 8 hermits for that matter. Could this be a factor? <Its not likely... it really sounds like a lack of adequate water flow overall> I removed all the components from the tank except the rock and substrate, disassembled them and scrubbed them clean in freshwater - <Yikes! This did far more harm than good. The FW killed untold numbers of desirable microorganisms> practically to brand new, and performed a 25% water change. The material had to be physically removed by brush or towel - simply spraying water on it did little. My water tests using Seachem test kits are as follows: SG 1.025 - Instant Ocean / Tap water filter 78-80 deg F Ph: 8.2 Alk: 4.0 meq/l Calcium: 425 Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate: Undetectable Phosphate: 0.05 mg/l (had been dropping slowly since the addition of the polypad) Silicates 4 mg/l (probably a bit high) I use reef builder and reef advantage calcium/reef calcium to maintain alk/calc and small doses of reef plus for trace elements. Its been 2 days - no sign of a major return - but I'm wondering what it was, if I need to worry about it and how to treat it if so. <As with most all nuisance organisms growths... control nutrients. Aggressive skimming, improved water flow, bigger and more frequent water changes> Also- can you recommend a good sand sifter for a 20 gallon tank, I was considering either a conch, small starfish or cucumber. <a common serpent starfish might be best> Should I be dosing iodine to get the coralline algae going- or will the calcium additions and water changes suffice. <For corallines... do use SeaChem's "reef calcium"... it grows corallines like crazy!> I plan to add a shrimp or two and eventually keep mushrooms and soft corals, finally adding 1 - 3 small fish (6-7 inches total) (goby, wrasse, Basslet) over the course of the next 10 months. Let me know if this sounds properly stocked. Thanks for a great resource. <Thank you my friend! Anthony> Detritus removal Hey, <Hey Joe> I have a question about the detritus buildup in my 55 gallon tank. As of now it is a FOWLR. Later I want to add corals. The problem is that detritus is building up on the sand bed. Any siphon I use that is powerful enough suck out detritus also siphons out my sand. Is there another way to help remove detritus? <I use a siphon for detritus removal in my sand bed. You really need to control the output by squeezing your fingers on the tubing. Better to use a smaller one, there will be less suction. James (Salty Dog)> Thank You, Joe Lace <You're welcome> Help for beginner with a few things Hi Wet Web gurus :-) <Melinda> Thank you very much for your wonderful site, which I have spent a lot of time reading (not to mention Bob Fenner's books). I am sure to spend hours more here in future! <Welcome> As I am a complete marine beginner (after caring for freshies for years), I have a few, rather pathetic questions, which I'm sure I've read the answer to a billion times on this site, but just need someone to tell me one more time. My set-up is: 200 litres (55 gallons) Approx 30 kg.s live rock (I think that's what...60-70 lbs?) <Yes... about 2.2 pounds per kilo> 2" crushed shell and coral substrate AquaC Remora skimmer w/PondMaster 1200 pump Eheim pro series III canister filter 2 x Tronic 150 watt heaters Lighting - 3 white fluorescent bulbs and 1 blue actinic (sorry, can't remember the spectrum but it was rated for reef tanks). My tank is planned for seahorses, but at present is still cycling (LR went in last Saturday 4/16/05). Water parameters are Ammonia 0.0 - 0.05, nitrites 0.1, nitrates - 20, pH 8.3, SG 1022, KH 3. I mixed the water using tap water, which measured 5 when I tested it for PO4, so I've added Anti-Phos to the canister, and it's now reading 0.0. I have a slight diatom bloom, which (I presume) is as a result of the initial PO4 and the higher nitrates as the tank cycles? <Yes... a common occurrence> I've heard such blooms called "new tank syndrome" and have been told to just wait it out, as it will dissipate as the Nitrate levels fall. Is that correct? <Yes> Or should I try to suck it up with the siphon? <You can stir it... with a net handle or dowel... or siphon some out... but largely patience is called for here> I don't think silicates are a problem (unless they're in the tap water - but I don't know how to test for this). <There are test kits, but silicate is not often a real problem> Sorry, I know this email is getting longer and longer, but if you wouldn't mind still reading, I'd be really grateful! <Sure> I have noticed some little glass anemones on the live rock (yay) and think they're Aiptasia, but can't find any pics that look like them on this site. <Try the Google search tool on the WWM homepage... using this name and Anemonia> Two have long, clear spiky-tipped tentacles (maybe 8 each), and two have fat, short tentacles with pink, bubble tips. I can't really take pics, because they're in awkward places, and still only very small (about ¼" diameter atm...sorry, trying to guess at US measurements). I am going to try the revered peppermint shrimp on them and see what happens. Will the anemones harm the seahorses if the shrimp don't eat them? <Could, yes... I would take steps to remove them once the tank is fully cycled> My next question is regarding cycling. I know my tank has not yet cycled fully - or at least, to my satisfaction, because I haven't had steady readings for any length of time yet. However, some people are telling me to "help the process along" by adding ammonia (or equivalent "cycle-stuff") to the water - and some say leave things be. I tend to lean towards leaving things to run their course. What do you recommend? If I add ammonia - won't it harm the bacteria already on the LR, not to mention the cool LR hitchhikers that are now exploring my tank? <Ammonia can be added but it is really almost always better in circumstances like yours... tank size, using LR, to just wait> Finally, can you please advise (with the albeit limited information I've given you) if the water flow I have would be sufficient to introduce a few seahorse-safe corals to the tank as well? <Yes... once the system is thoroughly established> I am interested in star polyps or xenia. I know corals and horses are almost mutually exclusive, because of the water-flow problems, but I also know that quite a few people manage it. I'd like to try to be one of them! <I encourage you to do so> Thank you very much for any help or advice that you can give me. I look forward to exploring more of the great resource that is WetWebMedia Melinda <Cheers, Bob Fenner> Dark Brown Algae Hey guys! Congratulations on a great job on your site. Let me start off by saying that I try to research as much as I can on your site and others but I only have access to the internet while I'm at work so it is very limited. I have recently attempted to join the world of reef keeping with the purchase of a 24 gallon minibow tank. After years of successfully keeping saltwater fish only tanks I decided to give corals a shot. I've been running this 24 G tank since March of this year with a couple of damsels in it and a 3-4" bed of live sand. I have slowly added 40lbs of live rock to the system. About two weeks ago I added a clown fish and a royal Gramma that appear to be doing well, I took the damsels back to my LFS. At that time I also introduced a patch of green star polyps about 3"x6" in length that appear to be doing well. About a week ago I added a feather duster too and it also appears to be doing well. As for my set up as I mentioned it is a 24G minibow with 2 65W power compacts, a maxi jet power head that pumps about 260 gph and a overhead drip filter in the cover of the aquarium with a power head that pumps about 200gph filled with LR rubble and back in to the aquarium. I was using a sponge like filter media spread out over the LR rubble in the filter but after researching information on my feather duster I decided to take that out to leave more particles in my water for the feather duster to consume. Was this a good idea or not? Everything appeared to be doing great, fish were looking healthy then this past Friday I went to my LFS and bought a Anemone and that's where my terror starts. The Anemone didn't make it past the first night for it got cough in my filter power head as it tried to move along the glass and just got chopped in to pieces. I actually heard it happen and woke up at about 2am this Saturday morning and seen that my water was very cloudy almost milky then I discovered the Anemone. I removed the dead anemone and when I woke up in the morning I immediately changed 10 gallons of water then another 5 gallons just yesterday. I had ordered colony of Zoo's, a couple of frags along with some mushrooms. I added them shortly after my last water change yesterday. Oh yeah and I also have one turbo snail in there that does a good job cleaning up the algae on my LR. Well my problem started last night when I noticed a patch of dark brown algae with tiny bubbles all over it, I shook it up with I later read on your site that was a bad idea but it quickly came back. It is not like the red/brown/green I have seen in my tank in the past on my LR or on my glass. This is a thicker darker algae with a lot of tiny air bubbles all over it, over my sand in a area in my tank with low water movement. I do not test my water on my own but have my LFS do it weekly or biweekly and have been told it is good. What can I do to get rid of it, is it harmful? What else would you suggest to add to my tank as a "cleaning crew" and would that help with this specific problem? Does this have anything to do with that Anemone? And last, should I do another water change? Thanks, I will be taking my water to LFS tonight to see what they can tell me, it just seems like a lot of these stores tell you conflicting advice and ultimately just want your $$$$. <Jimmy, sounds to me like you are having a hydrogen sulfide buildup due to the dead anemone. Dead anemones, especially in mini reefs create problems galore. I suggest getting one unit of Chemi-Pure or a
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