FAQs on Reef Set-Up 5 Related Articles: Reef Systems, Reef Set-Up, Being Conscientious Save money and the reefs By Jennifer Smith, Technology: Putting on the Brakes:  How much is too much? By Tommy Dornhoffer, Refugiums, Reef Filtration, Marine System Plumbing, Marine Aquarium Set-Up, Fish-Only Marine Set-up, FOWLR/Fish and Invertebrate Systems, Coldwater Systems, Small Systems, Large Systems, Refugiums, Marine Biotope, Marine Landscaping, Fishwatcher's Guides,  Related FAQs: Reef Set-Up 1, Reef Set-Up 2, Reef Set-Up 3, Reef Set-Up 4, Reef Set-Up 6, Reef Set-Up 7, Reef Set-Up 8, Reef Set-Up 9, Reef Set-Up 10, Reef Set-Up 11, Reef Set-Up 12, Reef Set-Up 13, Reef Set-Up 14, Reef Set-Up 15, & Reef Tanks, Reef Lighting,  Reef Lighting 2,  Reef Filtration, & Reef Livestocking,  Reef Livestocking 2, Reef Feeding, Reef Disease, Reef Maintenance, Marine System Plumbing,  Marine Aquarium Set-Up,  Live Rock, Live Sand, Fish-Only Marine Set-ups, FOWLR/Fish and Invertebrate Systems, Coldwater Systems, Small Systems, Large Systems,  Reef Maintenance,  Biotopic presentations,  Algal Filtration in General, Mud Filtration 1,

Heading For A Reef Tank Hi Scott, <Hello again!> Thanks so much for your great reply!! I can rest easier now knowing I'm doing the right things. I am very much looking forward to the reef journey! <It's a blast! One worth taking!> WetWebMedia is a GREAT source for information and I will be a frequent visitor to continue learning about the hobby! Thanks again Scott!! Bill <My pleasure, Bill! Enjoy the journey! Regards, Scott F.>

Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Tank set-up Hi Crew,       Great site. I have gotten a lot of information reading over the last few months. I have a question on starting up a reef tank.       First what my setup will be. I have a 125g tank that is being drilled. It will have two 1.5" bulkheads for drain to sump. (an overflow in each back corner). Two 1" bulkheads for return in each overflow (these will be tied to a spray bar across the back of the tank with either five 1/2" or 3/4" tee's). I am thinking of a Mag drive 24 in-line as the return pump( do you think this will work or do you have other suggestions). <This pump should be fine> I will also have a closed loop with a 1" line to the pump and two 1" return lines. The closed loop will have a Velocity T4 pump(1250g/h). The sump is a converted wet/dry (no bio balls). I plan on placing some live rock in this sump and the protein skimmer, heaters and drip the effluent from my Ca reactor here also. I also have a 30g converted tank as a refugium. This will have a DSB and Macro algae and small PC light. I am having two 1" bulkheads placed in one end of the refugium to drain into the sump after the protein skimmer. Lights on main tank are four 96w PC, two 10k and two actinic. I know the lighting needs to be upgraded, but will have to wait for more funds.       I plan on placing about 150-180lbs of live rock in the main tank with about 5" of live sand. What I need to know is if I place the sand and rock in the tank to cycle (rock will most likely be un-cured) when do/can I place the snails, hermit crabs, and possibly cucumbers (sand stirring creatures) in the tank (any suggestions on type/number of each would be appreciated greatly). <Place these "cleaner uppers" after the system has stabilized, advanced beyond the non-detectible ammonia and nitrite phase. The kinds, numbers can be researched by referring to these groups on WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner> Thank you in advance for your help. Keith

- Tank Setup - Hi Crew, Great site. I have gotten a lot of information reading over the last few months. I have a question on starting up a reef tank. First what my setup will be. I have a 125g tank that is being drilled. It will have two 1.5" bulkheads for drain to sump. an overflow in each back corner). Two 1" bulkheads for return in each overflow (these will be tied to a spray bar across the back of the tank with either five 1/2" or 3/4" tee's). I am thinking of a Mag drive 24 in-line as the return pump (do you think this will work or do you have other suggestions). <I sounds like it will work, sure.> I will also have a closed loop with a 1" line to the pump and two 1" return lines. The closed loop will have a Velocity T4 pump(1250g/h). The sump is a converted wet/dry (no bio balls). I plan on placing some live rock in this sump and the protein skimmer, heaters and drip the effluent from my Ca reactor here also. I also have a 30g converted tank as a refugium. This will have a DSB and Macro algae and small PC light. I am having two 1" bulkheads placed in one end of the refugium to drain into the sump after the protein skimmer. Lights on main tank are four 96w PC, two 10k and two actinic. I know the lighting needs to be upgraded, but will have to wait for more funds. I plan on placing about 150-180lbs of live rock in the main tank with about 5" of live sand. What I need to know is if I place the sand and rock in the tank to cycle (rock will most likely be un-cured) when do/can I place the snails, hermit crabs, and possibly cucumbers (sand stirring creatures) in the tank (any suggestions on type/number of each would be appreciated greatly). <Would wait two to four weeks until the sand and rock have cured... the longer you can wait, the better.> Thank you in advance for your help. Keith <Cheers, J -- >

135 gallon reef Hi, We have just switched all our plans from a fish only tank to a full blown reef. We've had a 55 FOWLR for some time and just bought a 135 gallon tank <Good that you have some experience.  Keep in mind you'll need more water circulation, more lighting, and closer attention to water quality in your reef.> The tank is 18 high 24 wide and 72 long. We need ideas on lighting for the tank. Were planning only having some mushrooms, soft corals and anemones. <I like to use metal halide lighting, even for soft coral tanks--simply a personal preference.  For this tank I would go with a low wattage, probably 175 watts, and a high temperature bulb, probably 20000K.  Again, these are personal preferences.  Other options are power compact or PC lighting, and T5 high output fluorescent lighting.  I leave the endless possibilities of lighting to you to research. :D> our stock will be a scopas tang, a coral beauty,2 clownfish, a convict tang and maybe a magnificent Foxface. I don't know if these are reef safe or not? <A nice mix of livestock.  I suggest going with either ocellaris or percula clowns, as they stay small and peaceful, readily pair up and spawn.  The tangs and Rabbitfish might not get along.  The scopas in particular can be very aggressive to other tangs.  A more fitting choice might be a Ctenochaetus species, such as the Kole or chevron tang.  Much more sociable with other tangs.  The convict is rather peaceful as well, but consider removal of one or two of these three fish to be a possibility.  The tangs should be the last fish added in any case.> Is this a stocked tank or can I have some flasher wrasses or some gobies and other smaller fish?   <You can probably add a couple smaller fish.  If doing flashers (Paracheilinus spp.) add them as the very first fish, and preferably in groups.  They won't acclimate well to an established tank full of boisterous fish.> <Hope this helps!  Matt.>

Reef Aquarium Questions 10/21/04 Hi Crew, First, great site, I have learned more on this site than any where else. Second, my setup. I have a 125g main tank (72l x 18d x 22h). It is being drilled to install two 1.5" bulkheads for drain to sump and two 1" bulkheads for return to tank all in two corner overflows. The 1" return lines will be connected to a 3/4" spray bar across the back of the tank with 4 or 5 "tee's" as outlets. I plan on using a Mag drive 24 (2400g/h) as the return pump from the sump. I am also having holes drilled for a closed loop system, three 1" bulkheads on the back of the tank. One for feed to pump, the other two for return to tank. <all good> I have a CSL Velocity T4 pump (1250 g/h) I plan on using for the closed loop. Is this enough flow for a reef tank IYO?. <yes... you are nicely over the 20X per hour turnover guide minimum> I also have a 15g sump (converted wet/dry, no bio balls) and 30g tank I will be using as a refugium. The refugium will have two 1" bulkheads to drain into the sump. I will be placing some rubble and macro algae in the refugium for nutrient export and production of pods. <excellent... do consider using Chaetomorpha algae as a best/better species. Available from fellow hobbyists, local clubs, some stores, inlandaquatics.com, etc> In the sump, I plan on placing some live rock, heaters and the calcium reactor will drip here also (Knop-c). Currently have a CSL 4x96w PC light (this will be upgraded later as money becomes available). I have not determined the contents of the tank yet. Am currently reading "Natural Reef Aquarium" by John Tullock to help figure this out. Will have a few (4-6 fish), some inverts and some easy medium light polyps/corals. (any suggestions would be helpful). Now for the questions: 1) I will be using a DSB. If I put a DSB in the refugium, is there any benefit to also having one in the main display?. (The DSB's will be 5"+ deep) <yes... if the coral and/or fish bioload is high enough, then the refugium bed may not be large enough to handle it all (denitrification, etc). There is some benefit here to another larger bed in the display> 2) I plan on placing the sand for the DSB's first, then live rock (un-cured). <Yikes! NEVER cure live rock in the display with a sand or gravel bed... pathogens and contamination can/will filter to the bed and remain. Always/only cure live rock in a bare-bottomed tank  with aggressive skimming and water changes... preferably in a separate tank> I know I need to cycle the tank, but how long do I wait to place the "cleaning crew" and sand stirrers into the tanks?. Can this be done while cycling or do I need to wait until the ammonia levels drop significantly?. <you must wait till ammonia returns to zero for all livestock> 3) For future info, are the HQI Metal Halides (double ended?) as good as I've been hearing?.( <yes, truly outstanding in my opinion> a 250w HQI puts out close to the same light as a 400w mogul) Any suggestions or criticisms of this setup will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for all of your time and expertise that you share so willingly and freely, Keith <very fine overall... best of luck. Anthony>

New Reef Tank Do you have any recommendations on books to assist in the planning and setting up of a 75 gallon reef tank? <Yes. If you are very new to the hobby, please look into Mike Paletta's books (insert his name as author in Amazon.com or other book etailer site). If "ready to go" (i.e. with sufficient/comfortable background in freshwater) I'd read through John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums"... Once you have at least this sort of exposure I would gather factual material from websites such as our WetWebMedia.com and bulletin boards like Reefs.org, ReefCentral... make a list of gear (tank, stand, lighting, filtration... AND livestock you'd like to consider further) and investigate your options thoroughly before purchasing/proceeding. You will be very glad you did this research as there is considerable "dis"information, some of it quite popular. Bob Fenner>

Starting a Reef (10/9/04) Dear WWM Crew, <Steve Allen tonight> I am new to the marine side of the hobby but I have been into freshwater for quite some time now (ever since I was a kid). I am thinking of setting up a reef tank--some 100-120gal, <Fun. Bigger is better. How about 180 (72X24X24)--a wonderful size.> mostly hard corals (SPS and some LPS), couple of clams, a xenia/anthelia or Clavularia and some Ricordea; so for the last couple of months I've been reading and planning, and then reading more and re-planning (there is soooo much to learn even though you might think you'd be familiar with most of it). <It's a lifelong learning process--good for the brain.> I must say that your website has been a great source of knowledge and I've spent many enjoyable hours reading your articles and FAQs. <Me too. All of us learn from this. My pleasure to play a small part.> This said, I have two sets of questions that I'll cover in different e-mails since one has to deal with set-up and the other with livestock. First of, let me say that I have a "more of nature, less of technology" attitude <Technophile that I am, I prefer nature in this case too.> towards this project because I believe that if we are to fully succeed in keeping live corals and tropical fish (the way we somewhat have with freshwater) we should do it Mother Nature's way not I-know-better-than-that way. <true, but since we certainly can never re-create the ocean in a 100-200 gallon box, we do need to rely on some technological assistance to succeed.> From what I figured we know a lot but still so little that it's almost nothing. <Well, that's true about all science.> My first question has to do with sump/refugiums and skimmers. I read about the macroalgae mud filters and I read about the DSB refugiums and they both seem to have their way of doing things so I decided to use them both (doesn't look like you can go wrong with that). I have decided that I need a refugium mostly for 1)DSB denitrification, 2)food culturing (mostly Gracilaria for herbivores and Mysis for carnivores/omnivores). <It can be a bit difficult to grow Gracilaria in a small refugium with a DSB. This is due to it's need for a lot of circulation.> The mud filter is going to be with Chaetomorpha <Great stuff. Mine thrives.> mainly for nutrient export and elements replenishing (through the EcoSystem Miracle Mud or similar product). What should the photoperiod be on those and what lighting should I use? I figured 24/7 on the Chaeto mud filter, and 10-12h on dark hours of the main tank for the refugium. <Chaeto does not need 24/7 either. Only Caulerpa does. Compact fluorescents work nicely for this purpose, but some folks do just fine with regular fluorescent. There is a lot of info about this on the site and on our chat forum. Also, do consider purchasing Bob & Anthony's wonderful "Reef Invertebrates" book, which contains 100 pages about DSBs, refugiums and macroalgae.> Second, I wanted both the mud filter and the refugium to receive equal amounts of nutrients from the main tank so I thought about placing them as side-by side (lengthwise) chambers in the sump. The unprocessed water is going to come from the main tank into a protein skimmer/Ca reactor chamber <be sure to have mechanical filtration prior to the Ca reactor to prevent clogging. If you're having water flow down into a partitioned area that this sits in, a simple floss bag will work.> then flow through the middle into the side-by-side mud filter and refugium chambers and then overflow into a mixing chamber with a pump returning the water into the main tank. Is this reasonable enough or do you see potential drawbacks? <The sump will have to be quite large to accommodate all of this. The relative advantages of mud over sugar-fine sand are not a settled issue. I'm not convinced that one needs both. Have you  heard of CPR Aquatic's AquaFuge HOT refugium. I grow my Chaeto in one of these. One can have mud in there too. It will also add a little more circulation. Then the sump could have just the DSB and hopefully some Gracilaria.> I figured that since I'm going to rely mostly on natural nutrient export I do not need aggressive skimming. <Most people still rely on a quality skimmer.> And yes, I am convinced that AquaC/EuroReef/Tunze are all great brands and all worth the money but do I really need something as sophisticated and powerful given that I do not want to overskim my system <To my knowledge, this concept is theoretical only, with no real evidence backing it up.>, I just need something to remove excess DOM like the ocean does and then leave the rest to the natural filters. I guess what I really need is a moderately effective, easy-to-clean, not so expensive protein skimmer. I was looking at the Nautilus TE, the Turboflotor, the Red Sea Berlin skimmers and some other options. Can you recommend any of those or any other brand to serve my purpose? <each of these have their advocates. Do some more research online Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm > As for the Ca reactor, I have decided on a DIY since most stuff on the market is just way too expensive for what that device truly is (I wish someone would make the ultimate Ca reactor, put a $100-150 price tag on it <Dream on. Perhaps that someone could be you?>, kill all competition, make all aquarists happy and the world a better place:-)). I'm thinking a 2-chamber reactor. Should there be a difference in the media used since the second chamber is going to be used mainly to buff up pH and then somewhat to add to alkalinity and Ca. <Check out OzReef.org and the DIY forum on our chat forum for more help with this.> The macro-algae are going to deal with the rest of the CO2 I presume and restore pH balance. I am also thinking should the effluent go through the skimmer for the benefit of it removing some CO2 as suggested by some or isn't it better to have the purified water from the skimmer go to the Ca reactor thus making sure that waste products don't clog the reactor <mechanical filtration will prevent this.> and also make it easier to clean? Also there is a pump needed for the skimmer/ one for the reactor/ 2 for main tank-sump water flow. Isn't it possible to just use one powerful pump (and one for the return) and then direct the needed flow towards each of those using valves, plumbing, etc. or is it too much to ask for :-)? < Balancing all this flow gets complex. You only need one pump to lead from the final chamber to the tank. I recommend drilling the sump and using an external pump. I highly recommend and Iwaki with the better Japanese motor. Costly, but will provide years of trouble-free service well worth the initial investment. For the skimmer & reactor, I'm a fan of Sedra an Super MagDrive submersibles.> Lighting of course comes to mind and for the system I have decided on it seems that most people agree on metal halides. Still there is this plethora of options that feels like worth a tome in its own. I'll probably go DIY with this as well mainly because of aesthetics (I don't come even close to liking most fixtures and cannot imagine how they're going to fit with the rest of the interior). Anyway, I am looking at 2x175w 10k metal-halides plus some VHOs, T5s, PCs, HOs, actinics or whatever else there is to supplement them. <do read more on WWM, www.reefkeeping.com & www.advancedaquarist.com about options.>I am also going to include moonlight. <Questionable benefit, nice aesthetics.> Here I am thinking of trying to duplicate nature as best as I can and this to me is more providing the needed variability than providing the constant intense lighting. I read that dimmers are not recommended for metal halides because they wear them off an awful lot. What is your opinion on this? <I don't like dimmers for anything, to be honest with you. I'd rather selectively turn on/off individual/groups of bulbs.> If true then I can just arrange timers to turn the different lights on and off in cycles simulating passing clouds and storms and the likes. <bingo> Do you think that this would be better or should I stick with the regular undisrupted moon lights-actinics-MHs-actinics-ML pattern, provided that the variations I am talking about would still meet the SPS/clams needs? <there are so many viable approaches here. Study more at the recommended sites and other sources. Take time, be patient. Pick that which makes the most sense to you, and be prepared to watch your electric meter spin like a whirling dervish.> I am looking at about 400-500w total for my size system (100-120g) with a water depth of no more than 25'' and the SPS/clams placed in the top 10-15'' of water. Last (still hanging in there?:-)) I have a question about live rock. Some recommend Fiji, some Tonga, some a combination of the two, some other kinds. <I have a mix--gives a great variety of life.> I read Bob's article for Walt Smith and I recollect that Fiji premium rock is good more because of the way it's managed (collecting, handling, pre-curing) than because it's very porous. As for the deepwater Tonga, I've read that it's more porous and more diverse but then it's uncured and so it's more likely to introduce unwanted pests. <Curing does not prevent pests, it removes dead stuff. You can get these from any live rock, but the risk is exaggerated, IMO. Unless you by pre-cured (expensive!) rock straight out of an LFS tank and put it straight into yours, you will need to re-cure--read the FAQs.> Of course, I do not expect (as with anything) that there is a right and wrong here but what is your opinion on the matter? <I like a mix. I bought some "Lalo" from Drs. Foster & Smith that continues to yield pleasant surprises after an entire year has passed.> Is there a very porous, diverse and well managed live rock out there or is it again too much to ask for? <I have been very satisfied with mine. Do look at Florida cultured LR as an option too.> I've also read somewhere (I don't remember where anymore) that if you dip live rock in high-salinity sea water the crustaceans/worms and the likes are going to vacate it and then you can just go through all the creatures and take what you want and dispose what you don't. Is this true/ do you recommend it as part of the curing process? <not a bad idea. I did not do this myself, but many folks have found it helpful.> That was a long one... Thank you sooo much and again keep up the good! Ivan B. <I hope this was helpful. I strongly recommend the "Reef Invertebrates" book. Consider also the excellent "Reef Secrets" by Nielsen & Foss?>

- Setting up a 120 Reef - Greetings Crew I'm in the process of setting up a 120 gal tank and have a series of related stocking questions.  Hardware should be something along the lines of: Overflow split into two 29 gal tanks.  One will be a refugium with a DSB, LR and macroalgae (suggestions here? Preferably something non-floating). <Many choices, all reviewed on Wet Web Media.> The second tank will hold an Aqua-C EV180 with ozone, then through carbon into a chamber with two heaters and then into a collection area.  The refugium will return to this collection area and then be shot back into the display tank via an Iwaki MD30RLXT (Thinking about hooking up a SCWD into the return and directing it to two nozzles. thoughts?). <Sounds good to me.> Additional current in the display via Tunze Turbelle and closed loop or manifold.  Lighting will be two 250w MH, either 10K, 12K or 20K.haven't decided yet. I'm looking at mostly softies at this point, but want the flexibility to go in other directions later in life without completely re-tooling the tank. My limiting factor fish-wise is a Mandarin (S. splendens).  Along with that little guy, I'd like to keep a dwarf flame angel, a white cheeked tang, a pair of clowns (ocellaris or perc) and some other small something-or-other.  Several folks have suggested cardinals, but I have a strong preference against those particular critters.  I'd like to be able to keep a triad or so of firefish, but wonder if they might out-compete the mandarin. <Is possible.> My hope would be that there'd be enough food to sustain both given the size of the display, the refugium (to be seeded with pods and the like), and about 6 months of critter growing time before any swimming fish are introduced. <Good plan.> Now the questions: 1) Think the group of firefish is feasible? <Is feasible, but as you mentioned will be competition for food for the Mandarin.> If not, do you have any non-cardinal suggestions? <Well... if color is not a huge issue, why not go for some fish that aren't exactly pretty but very fun to watch, Barnacle Blennies.> 2) If the firefish would work, are the various species of firefish compatible together in this size space? <They often pair up... would get two of one species, and if I were in your situation I'd get the ones your wife likes.> (My wife likes the purples ones, I prefer the white/orange ones) 3) Given this list of fish, in what order would you stock? <If you manage to wait the full six months, and have a good quantity of live rock, you should be able to stock this list in any order with one proviso... you should wait as long as possible for the Mandarin, the longer the better.> Thanks in advance for your guidance.  The above plan owes quite a bit to the trust of dedicated folks associated with your site. Sam Anacortes, Washington <Cheers, J -- >

Filtration for a 30 gal Hello - I purchased an Oceanic Systems 30 gal cube aquarium, which I am going to make into a reef tank w/ live rock, some soft corals, six/seven fish, and maybe clam later on. << Maybe not that many fish, depending on what you buy. >> I have a Sea Star prism pendant w/ (1) 175 watt metal halide, (2) 32 watt blue actinics, and (1) LED blue moon light. I purchased the CPR Cyclone bio-filter system (CY192) and a continuous siphon overflow box (CS50) because I want to keep the water moving and clean/clear as possible.  I would like to know your opinion on using this combo filter/protein skimmer system for my reef set-up, and your advice for alternative system if you don't think this is the best set-up. << That sounds great.  However, the real question and best item for filtration is the amount of live rock.  I'd be sure to have much live rock and deep sand in that system. >>   Thank you, Karen <<  Blundell  >>

Beginner setup questions Hi...I am planning to setup a reef aquarium soon, some of my friends said it's a good start as an aquarist. But there are some of my friends (more than the ones that agree) told me to stay away from setting up a reef aquarium. << Crazy friends, find new friends.  Just kidding, I'm sure they are just hesitant because it can be challenging to the unprepared individual. >> They said the percentage of a successful reef aquarium setup is very low. << I wouldn't say it is very low.  I'd say it is very, very low. >> I am living in Malaysia (near the equator), the weather around here is hot almost all year round. << Wow, do I wish I lived there.  Just call me jealous. >> I observed my freshwater aquarium and the temperature is around 30 - 32 degree centigrade, sometimes 33. I am not looking forward in using a chiller. So, what should I do & what are the important things that I should be aware of (temperature, minerals, water quality, supplements to use)...? << I would stay clear of supplements for a long time.  I'd worry about live rock, filtration, lighting, things like that.  I'm not sure what you have available there (maybe everything we have here, maybe nothing we have here).  Lighting is the big question, it will make a difference in what you can keep and what temperature you will have. >> If I am able to setup a reef aquarium, I plan to keep 1 or 2 anemone and some corals. What kind of anemones and corals should I look for as a beginner (if possible anemones & corals that does not need very cold temperature.) << Xenia, mushrooms, anthelia, Sarcophyton. >> Can I add in fish in the reef aquarium...? << Absolutely.  If you ask me the purpose of a reef tank is to make a nice home for the fish.  (but don't tell Calfo I said that) >> If can, how many can I keep in a reef aquarium (I am planning to use a 48in. X 18in. X 18in. aquarium) << Hmm, like 5 or 6 medium sized (3 inch) fish should be fine. >> and what are the fish that are safe to keep with the presence of anemones and corals...??  << Just about all damsels (Pomacentrids) and gobies or blennies.  Best advice I can give is to see other reef tanks first.  Really, don't jump into this.  And read some books, it will really help for where you are at.  And finally.... live rock is the key to reef tanks.  Make sure you invest in 20 kilograms of live rock. >> Thanks... <<  Blundell  >>

- Reef Filtration - I have a question I am going to buy a 155 gal all glass aquarium they are telling me in the store to use Caulerpa and miracle mud with a skimmer I want to have a mini reef with some anemones and sponges and soft corals, can I use a wet dry they are telling me no but what do you recommend. <Think the store is steering you in the right direction.> In the sump they are adding a light for the Caulerpa but I have no idea in this, I had a 75 gallon tank with live rock but it had a leakage and I lost it so now I am between a 72 or this 155 what do you recommend. <The larger the better if affording all the attendant accessories is not a problem.> I had ordered for my previous tank a fixture 4 foot long with 2 175 MH 10 k Ushios and 2 40 watt actinics they say if I raise it it could be used on top of the 155 gal I receive this lights tomorrow and don't wan t to lose them what can I do? <They are correct - it could be suspended from the ceiling and work just fine.> Can I use a wet dry filter with a skimmer and only that for a reef? <Wet/dry filters and reef tanks are not good combinations.> thank you very much Alejandro <Cheers, J -- > 

Basic set up for a 75 gal Please help me get a jump-start on my fresh start reef system. I've been a marine aquarist (sp?) for about 15 years with moderate success with mostly fish-only systems. That is the root of my experience and confusion while trying to enter the reef system area. The teaming life of a reef is unbelievable and I want to enjoy this as a family with my kids. First the basic of my system. No quick way to explain this so I will flood you with details. I have a 75 US gallon Oceanic tank with a single corner sump, one power head and a heater in the tank. The glass sump bottom is drilled for my wet/dry (I've read that this is a bad word now) system in my basement. I hard piped in the wet/dry system in the basement below my tank. The filter is a nice yet smallish acrylic Sea Clear system. It starts with simple prefilter floss for the intake, with bio-balls under for the wet/dry first tier area and than natural coral chunks in the submerged second tier. Under & over the little wall, I have another heater and my protein skimmer. The skimmer is (was at the time) a high quality Oceanic skimmer that was supposed to equal a 12+ ft tall conventional skimmer (the skimmer is currently off for set-up). A Quiet one pump attaches here and sends everything back into the tank. My UV system has been removed and needs to be replaced (if you think it's needed). << I wouldn't use it. >> My tank has been cycled for about 5-7 weeks. Tank content. I have a crushed coral bed with varying depths, 1 to 4 inches. Lots of old fashion real dead coral from years ago (I would never buy anymore after becoming educated). Live inhabitants currently: 4 small Percula clowns, 1 bar goby, one small green crab and 1 red shrimp. I also have a couple of hundred pound worth of good base rock that has been in dry storage for several years, so it certainly is not live. A newer canister filter system is also available but not being used except when needed for emergencies. Where do I go from here? What can I keep and what must go? I think my live stock is pretty basic system for a reef system, but my filter is the big question. << You answered it.  Filtration, so my advise or question is "where is the live rock".  I'd say you need about 50 pounds of it in that tank, and I'd let that rock sit in there for months before adding those fish.  A little late now, but I'd still be adding live rock.  That will be the whole key to your filtration. >> I've read lots of FAQ and have an OK base knowledge. My basement location for the filter system sounds like a great idea with plenty of room for improvement. << That is an awesome way to go. >> Some of my thoughts: 1. Can I convert my wet/dry into a refugium type filter system or must it be eliminated? << Very easy to convert, people do it all the time. >> 2. Should I go ahead and place my old base rock in the tank or must I cure this in another tank? I currently do not have a QT tank but will be setting one up soon, a topic for another time.  << If it is dry, you can just throw it in. >> 3. I need a water-aging tank or trash can and pump attached to the system for water changes. << That would be convenient, but not necessary. >> 4. I've considered using a spare 55 US gallon tank as a secondary sump to increase water volume to 130 US gallons and improve overall water quality stability. Perhaps this could even be my QT tank if plumbed right to be shut off from the remaining system?  << Yes it could be, but not for medicating, only for slow acclimation.  Otherwise if you want to medicate then you would need a separate tank. >> Sorry about my ramble, but I figured more info is better than less. Please help me. <<  Get the live rock and live sand growing for now.  You may want to analyze your lighting system as that will determine what you can have in this tank in the future. >> <<  Blundell  >>

Rock & Sand Questions (9/8/04) Hi Wet Web Gods! <Mere Mortal Steve Allen at your service.> I am still in the process of  building this 180 gal. reef tank of mine and I am getting close to getting things started. <cool> I have several questions regarding the curing of live rocks and the seeding of sand. My plan for this system is to have a 35 gal. upstream refugium (24"x28") with a deep layer of sand 5" sand and Gracilaria growing for nitrate export. <Do learn of the care requirements of this macroalgae--it can be difficult to grow due to high flow requirements. Take a look at Chaetomorpha too.> The surface of the main display is 49"x30" minus 2 corner overflow. <Interesting shape--a "standard" 180 is 72x24.> It was suggested to me to put a thin layer (1") of sand in the main display in conjunction with a deep layer 5-6" external refugium. <This is for aesthetics. Personally, I don't like the look of a bare-bottom tank.> If the best size for a refugium is 40% of main display's water volume <more is better>, this would mean a refugium of 72 gal. Since I only have a 35 gal. refugium it appears that I need to expand somehow. <Any is better than none.> Or it is the foot print that matters? <Volume is important: "The solution to pollution is dilution."> Would it be advantageous to create a DSB in the main display as well? <Yes, if the stocking plan can accommodate this.> Would the buffering capabilities increase or improve? <Yes> Since I will use aragonite as media will this combination produce too much calcium? <No. The calcium in the aragonite comes out slowly based on pH, alkalinity and Ca concentration in the water, among other factors.> Is there such a thing? <Yes, created when adding too much supplement. Can mess up alkalinity and cause precipitates in the tank.> I purchased a calcium reactor for this system. Will it still be useful considering the amount of aragonite dissolved? <I'd say this expensive piece of equipment is only necessary in reef tanks with a number of high calcium-consuming corals. Most tanks can get by with the sand bed, rock, and some supplementation with two-part liquids or Kalkwasser, not to mention regular water changes. Lots of info on WWM, elsewhere.> I plan on suspending all the live rocks above the sand anyway. Will the sand in both tanks need to get stirred and/or vacuum? <Stirring by appropriate creatures such as Nassarius snails and burrowing shrimps or fishes is plenty. For the 1" bed, I'd vacuum.> Can vacuuming kill the micro-fauna? <It will certainly remove a portion. One should not be too aggressive. Search FAQs for details.> As for rock work I'm going to go with uncured Fiji Live Rock. Does it come directly from the source via airplane? <No. There are middlemen involved.> I want to cure the rock in a separate vessel so I can build the structure in the display without being rushed. Should I still look for Mantis Shrimp or that has been taken care of? <Mantis shrimp are not all that common in Pacific LR, but can usually be detected and extracted during the curing/quarantine process. More info on this in curing and mantis FAQs> What would a safe photo-period be to preserve the Coralline Algae? <Hmm. I cured mine in Rubbermaid containers in the garage (stinky stuff--not nice in the house) with only a window for light and the coralline came through just fine. Read the curing articles/FAQs.> Can I seed sterile aragonite sand simultaneously with each batch of Live Rocks. Or  is there a better way? <I would not recommend sand in the curing vessel because you will need to do a lot of water changes and detritus-vacuuming. Better to put the sand in the tank and let the cured LR seed it. Another option would be to add Bio-Spira Marine to the tank with sand in it while waiting for the LR to cure. Great product, but not cheap.> And finally should I have different grain size in the main display than the refugium for the sake of variety of microfauna? <This can be useful to promote variety.> Thanks folks, Stephan Gaudreau <You're welcome. Hope this helps. BTW, I think you would find Bob Fenner & Anthony Calfo's book "Reef Invertebrates" a prudent investment for its outstanding 100 pages of info on DSBs, refugiums and macroalgae (in addition to the valuable info on all sorts of non-Cnidarian inverts. It is available at Amazon.>

Reef Lighting 8/17/04 thank you for replying my last message so quickly I am really confused and don't know what to do you have helped me a lot with your advice and the FAQS but I want to have good light in my 75 gallon tank its 18 or 21 inches deep I want to have featherdusters, anemones, <please reconsider the anemones... keep none if you want corals in this tank and if not, still keep only one species  of anemone. They really do need species tanks> and some other clams or I don't really know yet will 4 fluorescent of 40 watts (2actinic and 2 daylight) and a 175 watt MH  do the job? <the fluorescents give little help here on a tank so deep... and the one MH is modest for a 4 foot long tank. This lighting scheme is "low" by most any standard> with a custom made canopy plus 2 fans or another choice is a 2 40 watt actinic and 2 175 watt MH which is the best choice for my LR and future inverts and me. <yes... much better!> Please help me I want to do a good spend on my lights not just buy to have lights. <pick 10K Ushios lamps (or Aqualines) and you will be quite happy. XMs are good too> In your last mail you told me to get rid of my Humu Humu trigger if I wanted the anemones and shrimp he is about 3 inches will he get used to them? <he is not reef safe at all and must be removed to be sure> I really like this fish and wouldn't want to get rid of him. <most triggers will kill desirable reef inverts like shrimp, clams, etc> Also what is a good blue fish for my tank? <I have no idea what to recommend without knowing the other fishes in your tank. There are no doubt some handsome damsels (Chromis if you need peaceful) to be found in blue colors> Well thank you very much hope to hear from you soon <best of luck, Anthony>

Re: 75 Gallon: New Reef Tank Thank You for reply so fast, last night I stayed up reading the light FAQs on your web, I decided to add 2 175 watt MH and 2 40 watt actinic fluorescents. do you think that I should have 2 40 watt actinic and 2 40 watt fluorescents plus the 2 MH or the other choice above? All your advices are helping me a lot narrowing down my choices, I really want to get good things for my tank but buying the correct things, doing some research first, my main worry now are the lights, so do you think 2 175 MH plus 2 actinic 40 watt fluorescents would do for my  75 gallon tank and I want to add some anemones, polyps and start from there will this be enough? My trigger is about 3" will he adapt to this environment I really don't want to get rid of him? my live rock seems to be dying should it be because insufficient light? I want a blue fish for my tank what would be a good choice? Well thank you very much hope to hear soon from you. <<Hey Alejandro; Good job on doing some reading-up! It will help you a lot if you can continue, especially about water chemistry issues, such as testing for calcium, alkalinity, pH, etc. and understanding (to the best that any of us can...) what the test results mean, how they affect each other or work hand-in-hand, and how to correct them when they are off. These are things you need to know in order to succeed with your tank and its inhabitants. For example, right now you are asking me about your live rock dying...this could be due to many things, lighting or water parameters, but I have no idea unless you provide me with more information, such as what your calcium levels are, alkalinity, pH, salinity, how often you do water changes, etc. In order for anyone here to help you, you will need to learn to add this info each time you have a specific question. Basically, it all revolves around water chemistry. Therefore, you really need to read up on this before attacking lighting issues, or even fish compatibility issues. You can't keep fish or corals alive if your water parameters are off. Water chemistry comes first, as it is essential for you to understand the basics of it before you will be able to try to balance your tank. Keeping a reef tank is all about balance, what you need to add, what you need to lower via water changes, and you must pay attention to your water parameters constantly. Some people test their water weekly, some daily, many of us have electronic monitors for the basics, such as salinity, temperature, pH, etc. You can glance at these monitors on a daily basis and note the numbers...if anything is off, you need to take immediate steps to correct whatever it is. I am not saying you need expensive monitors, not at all, I am merely trying to show you that you need to test your water quite regularly to be sure nothing is too far off. Things like pH should be stable in the 8.2 or 8.3 range during the day, along with temperature and salinity. Alkalinity can fluctuate now and then, so it should be tested, too, along with calcium and magnesium. These are the basics for any reef tank owner to know. There are others, but you can safely start with these test kits and do fine until your experience progresses. Your triggerfish is not a reef-safe animal. As he grows he may become quite aggressive. He will eat any shrimp you add, and trust me, you don't want to pay for a fancy shrimp just to see him disappear into your triggers mouth...same with smaller fish, such as your royal Gramma. Snack food for triggers. He may also snack on other inverts, like brittle starfish, snails, crabs, whatever is lying around on your reef that he feels like "tasting", etc. I know you want to keep him, but he will destroy your reef, in time. For a "blue fish" there are many to choose from. See what comes available at your local store, and ask them for recommendations. I will also mention again that your lighting is up to you. Either way will work, the problem with adding too much light is that you are a beginner, and I would not recommend stony corals to you until you have more experience. However, if you are determined, there are some stonies that are easier to keep than others, like frogspawn. A bit of research should help you decide which species you think you can keep. You can keep the lower-light-requiring softies at lower levels in the tank. You can arrange your rockwork and set the soft corals beneath overhangs until they adjust to the light. Again, read up on light-shock so you can understand this. And again, please do not attempt to keep corals and anemones in the same tank, for two reasons: one is that anemones MOVE around the tank in order to find themselves a favorite place, and unless your water parameters are excellent, they will trample all over your other corals, and in the process either sting them silly or annoy them greatly. Then they might simply decide they are unhappy, and crawl into a crevice where you can't see them, and die...causing high ammonia levels that will create major problems for your other livestock. Anemones are carnivores, so be prepared to target feed them every few days, unless you want your water quality to deteriorate if they don't manage to find the food you toss in at the surface. So the second reason is that water quality will deteriorate if you need to feed a bunch of carnivores on a regular basis. Do you see what I mean? So I guess if I were you, I would go with the double metal halides, and two 40 watt actinics. Other members of our team here might be able to give you explanations for each specific lighting set-up, but I have found this simple combination to be workable with many species of "beginner" corals...if you can call them that. I think it will be quite a while before you will need to upgrade your lighting, and by that point, you will be experienced enough to be wanting a much larger tank, anyways :P -Gwen>>

Mini Reef PC lighting choices - 8/11/04 Hi Crew, I am in the process of setting up a 15 gallon mini / micro / nano / pico reef tank (choose your buzzword here).  I already have a 125, but you can never have enough toys. <Too true>  Anyhow, I am looking at different lighting options and would like your opinion.  The tank is a 15 gallon high with the same footprint as a 10 gallon.  I have a 5 inch sand bed and 15lbs of new live rock cycling away in it now.  That leaves me with about 10 gallons and 12 inches of depth.  I am surprised at the number of lighting options available for such a small tank. <Well, this all depends on what you plan to place inside you mini reef> I plan on using power compacts. <OK> I want to make sure I have enough but not too much light. <What is this justification based on. Depends on the animals and their environmental distribution.>  Here are the 20 inch lighting options that I found: 28W single bulb 36W single bulb 40W single bulb 2 x 36W double bulb <OK choice for budget conscious> 2 x 40W double bulb <Good choice> 96W single bulb <Good choice> Double bulbs are nice, since one actinics and daylights can be controlled separately.  Is this really important? <Not really. As a matter of fact you don't really even need actinic lighting. This is for the human aesthetic> I don't plan on any SPS corals or clams. <Then what animals do you plan?>  How much and how many? <Light? I like the 2x40. Seems to be great for small aquariums gives you some options for bulb types as well. For example - 1 bulb at 10k and another at 20k or the standard 10k and the Actinic. You get the idea. Otherwise the 96w is a fine choice as well I use the 2x40s and have various fish and soft corals. All seem to adjust and grow well with good color. The difference between the three I remarked on above will come down to inhabitant choices, and funds available.>  I can't decide.  Any opinion on this? <You got it. You will have to make the decision from here. I gave you the knowledge and opinion, you must now use the power to your advantage to make the decision that best fits your needs.> By the way, I upgraded the skimmer on my 125G to an AquaC EV180 (per your recommendations) and it kicks butt. <You KNOW!!!> Lots of foul scum coming out of that one. <Great product. Have fun. ~Paul> Thanks again, Larry

Getting Back Into The Hobby- And Staying In! Hello, <Hi! Scott F. at your service!> Writing to you about my  2 year old 46 gallon bow front tank. It currently is running a Aquaclear Pro 75 wet/dry filter with a large mag return pump not sure of the rating and a Aqua C Remora skimmer. 3 good size powerheads circulating the water along with Coral Life PC lighting:1 50/50 strip 96 watts, 1 actinic blue strip 96 watts and 1 10,000k strip. There is about 35 lbs of live rock in it along with a mixture of crushed coral and live sand totaling about 3-4 inches deep. It had been a decent reef system for sometime, till most of my coral and coralline died and a lack of interest grew due to lack of funds at that time for the upkeep. <That will do the trick!> Let's just say, as the subject says, that I have renewed my interest in my tank and would like to get it back to all its glory.   <Cool!> Here is what I have done so far to get it back to that. I would just like you to comment on what I have done and if there is something I am sure I have overlooked. <Sure> Ironically, as the rock and coral died I am happy to report that all my fish and some strong coral have survived and are doing well: 1 Sailfin Tang 1 Hippo Tang 2 Yellow Tailed Damsels 2 Clarkii Clowns 1 Hawkfish 1 Lyretail Wrasse (was told was reef safe yeah right!) 1 Cup Coral and some brown polyps. 2 red brittle stars <Well- not to pick on you- but you asked for an opinion. I really think that you have too much life in this sized tank. Do be sure to reduce the population to a more manageable level for long-term success. The Sailfin can reach almost 15 inches long- it simply needs more room, and the Hippos is not far behind!>   About two weeks ago, as I was really looking at my tank, I noticed a brown/reddish film on all the rocks. As I knew this is algae and can't be good. I then totally rearranged the rockwork so that all the algae was out of the light. I then measured the phosphate level and was off the charts at 10 ppm!!! <Yep! Light plus nutrients equals algae bloom!> So I changed 50% of the water and I can't remember the last time I did that (shame on me). <Hey- at least you recognized that!> I used natural sea water this time because the tap water is high in phosphate, and I can't afford an R/O unit and the level went down to 2ppm. The natural sea water suggests 25% change once a month and I bought enough for 3 months. <You might want to look into the long-term cost of this idea. In the long run, the initially higher investment in an RO/DI unit might save you $$ over time> To combat the rest of the known phosphate I am using Polyfilter and Detox 2 (a form of carbon) in the wet/dry. Hopefully this works. As you have stated that wet/dry's are quote "nitrate factories", I want you to know that most of the time the reading is low. <Good...Keep in mind that there are other factors that contribute to nitrate in aquariums, such as your source water quality, etc.> I have started testing the water again and the levels are: ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 2.5 to 5 max ph 8.2 alk normal to high (don't have a numbered test) phosphate 2 <Still higher than you'd want for the long term> calcium 600 (yikes) <Wow! Do recheck this...> I currently have ordered a strontium, magnesium, carbonate (should be used for alk I take it), borate, along with Iodine and Iodide tests. Do I need an Oxygen test and silica test? got mixed thoughts on those. <I would not personally go crazy with Strontium and Iodine test kits. If you're doing regular water changes with a good quality salt mix, you really don't need to concern your self with some of those levels. You'll be replenishing them regularly with this practice. Do consider silicate, however- as it is a major contributor to some nuisance algae problems.> What levels should the strontium, magnesium, carbonate be? <Do consult a good book on marine water chemistry. Again- I wouldn't go crazy worrying about these levels...> After reading about the calcium levels I have to get it down, how do I do that other than just not dosing the tank? <That's the best way in the short run!> I have read about the snowstorm affect from too much calcium. With all the supplements on the market I am most confused as to what I need to use. <Less than you might think> I currently use most Kent products: Micro-Vert Coral Accell Coral Vite Marine-Cc Seachem Reef Builder trace elements strontium Tropic Marin magnesium Tropic Marin Calcium (have discontinued due to high reading) Iodine and iodide even use x-garlic on the frozen foods I ordered some supplement that helps regrow the coralline algae. <Wow! You are keeping the supplement manufacturers in business! The adage about "If you're going to use something- test for it" may not be totally applicable here...You plan on testing for lots of stuff...My real thought is to STOP adding stuff! Ask yourself why you need to supplement these things? If your salt mix is of good quality, and if you are making regular water changes- do you really need to add all of this stuff? Things like "trace elements" and "vitamins" are vague, and may simply contribute to nuisance algae growth...Try taking a break from additives for a while. Put the money into saving for an RO/DI unit and a good book on water chemistry. Better in the long run!> I think I might be overdoing it but I just want to get the tank healthy again. That's why I ordered all the tests which are most Reef Status brand. <Nothing wrong with testing, but I think that you're driving yourself crazy, and making things more complicated than they need to be here...Just slow down and do it the simple way. If testing (for BASIC stuff, like calcium) indicates the need to add more, then do so. But don't get yourself back on this crazy treadmill that so many people get on to- it just leads to empty pockets and empty aquariums!> When you do add another coral does Lugol's Solution really help with the acclimation process? <It has some antiseptic properties, but can be dangerous to some corals...> Is there anything else I should use or drop out from that list above? <See my rant above!> One more thing, the lights I have are a few years old should they be replaced when I do get the new corals? <I'd replace bulbs every 6 months to a year> I am sorry that this is so long and I hope to hear back from you. Thanks so much Jim Stephen <My pleasure, Jim! Keep it simple! Regards, Scott F.>

Reef Questions I just bought an already established 100 gallon reef tank and am setting it back up. The live rock had been placed directly on the sand with no ill effect but I have different sand (I didn't like the darkness of the old sand) and don't know if I should place the rock on the bottom of the tank and put the sand around it, place the sand in the tank and the rock on top, or to place the rock on PVC pipe so it is elevated. What do you think I should do? <You can either place the rock on an egg crate mesh, or clear the sand away from where the rock touches the tank bottom> I have had bad experiences with decay of the rock and sand when set directly on top of each other. I plan to have 1" of sand or less because a DSB would take up to much space (it is only about 20" tall). Is this what you would do or would you do a DSB? <That sounds fine, but go with only about 1\2" of sand unless you're going to be keeping burrowing animals.  I would advise a refugium, possibly with a DSB there>  Also, would a UV sterilizer be a good investment or an unnecessary expense? <In my opinion not needed on a reef tank, but useful on a quarantine tank> Thanks, Andy <Anytime.  M. Maddox>

Patience is a Virtue (Establishing a New System) Hello WWM crew!   <Hi there, Scott F. here with you tonight.> I need your expert advice. <Oh boy, that's added pressure...hah! hah!> I'll be setting up a 90-gallon reef tank in the next 2 weeks, and I'm trying to decide how I should let it run during the first month or so. The tank will have about 150 lbs. of live rock and just a sprinkling of sand on the bottom (no DSB). The lighting will consist of 4 x T-5's (65 watts each I believe) with reflectors and 2 x 150W MH HQI ice cap pendants (6500 K). All lights will be suspended about a foot above the tank. <Depending on what you are keeping, you may want to pull those pendants a bit closer to the water--say 6"-8".> The tank will be covered only by egg crate.  There will also be a 30 gallon sump, a Deltec 1250 protein skimmer, a Deltec calcium reactor and a Deltec chiller. No refugium. I eventually plan to keep mostly SPS corals. FWIW, I was skeptical about the wattage of my lights since I plan to keep primarily SPS, but I've been assured by many people with years of experience that the lights I'm buying burn extremely bright (i.e., that it's not all about the wattage), and that they will be more than sufficient (feel free to disagree). <I do agree.  I personally use a combination of 150 and 250 Watt HQI pendants on my reef tank which is 20" high and get very good growth of SPS corals.> My question is whether I should run the tank during the first month (or longer) without any lights (and without any livestock added other than what comes on the live rock), or whether I should run the lights for the normal 12 hours a day. I believe I read in Eric Borneman's "Aquarium Corals" book that he recommends running the tank (presumably with the lights on) for a couple of months or more without adding any livestock to see what sort of interesting algae, etc. grow on the live rock. I have also read (I believe in Sprung and Delbeek's "The Reef Aquarium Vol. I") that if you run the tank for a month or so without running the lights, you won't encounter nuisance algae, and the denitrifying bacteria will actually benefit from the lack of light. I'm not sure which approach is better, and I'm interested in hearing your opinion. <I agree with this approach.  However, you will still encounter nuisance algae with a new tank start up because of abundant nutrients and immature nutrient export processes, AND light.  Light itself will not cause nuisance algae.  On the other hand, leaving a tank unstocked for some time will help foster great diversity of life from the live rock and sand.  If you're patient enough to hold off on adding fishes and corals until the other life forms get established, you can enjoy all sorts of different life forms that you wouldn't otherwise get to see.> Also, how long should I wait before adding livestock to the tank (and by "livestock", I mean herbivores such as snails and tiny ,hermit crabs)? <I would add the herbivores as soon as the tank has cycled.  Getting those guys in there before algae becomes a problem is a key to success.> Thanks! Keith <I hope this helps you out.  Regards, Scott F.>

Reef System install and HTML issues on WWM I own and have read your book "Reef Invertebrates" Calfo and Fenner 2003; I agree it is an excellent resource. In addition I own and have read the following (approximate titles since they are at home and not at work) : Reef Secrets, The New Marine Aquarium, Corals for the Mini-Reef Aquarium, Your First Marine Aquarium, Natural Approach to Marine Reef Aquaria, and read all of your plumbing FAQs and Articles. <Okay> I started studying toward the goal of a Marine Reef Aquarium in my living room over a year ago and took the message to heart about patience. I ordered the tank in November and just got an intact one delivered this week. Previously the LFS delivered a tank but it was chipped for about five inches along one of the back corners of the glass and I rejected the delivery because I didn't want to put some 1500 pounds of salt water into a six foot long aquarium with some chips in the glass. <You were wise to refuse this tank> I have previously printed and read the whole plumbing section out of your website even though on both the printers at home and at work the last right-hand several characters are missing which makes reading it more challenging. <I'll bet... there may be some HTML issues... I am not well-versed in their repair but will cc Jason.C here who is> Since I got your e-mail below I spoke to the people at the LFS and spoke on the phone to Mr. Leng Sy about Ecosystems. Over the weekend I went out and bought a 46 gallon bow front which I set up in the dining room as a marine reef with an EcoSystem 60 for filtration, two 175 gph powerheads, about 28 pounds of live rock, 30 pounds of sugar sand oolitic type, and 10 lbs of live sand. I justified this as a combination experiment and as a species tank for an orange eye urchin for the future since obviously the urchin wouldn't be particularly reef safe for the 155 gallon. I spoke to an additional person at Ecosystem who happened to be female and she said that Tangs were good to use to cycle the tank as they were very hardy; my husband had wanted a lemon tang and I got a small one and plan to move him to the 6 foot long tank after it is ready in October. <Mmm, I do not concur that Tangs are good to cycle marine systems... in fact, I am a fan of not using live fishes period for this task> Meanwhile, my main question is, if the tank is for an urchin does that mean it should be the only algae grazer in the system besides the Tang or should I follow the advice about 1 blue legged crab per gallon, etc. for other algae eaters. We would like to have a tomato clown and its anemone in the tank, one urchin, the tank for awhile until it moves, and then perhaps a bicolor Pseudochromis. Please advise as to what other livestock would be appropriate: should I get brittle stars, etc? What corals can stand being around the urchin? I got a glass lid with a light with two u-shaped power compact fluorescents. I only have about 1/2 inch of sand in the whole bottom because Leng Sy said so. I have been planning to have a 5" deep live sand bed and two protein skimmers on the other 155 gallon tank. <I would hold off on all other "algae eaters" for now... and add what you will at a later time after this system has been up a few months. Much easier on all concerned> Thank you, Laura <Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Lighting Question Hi guys/girls Robert here from South Africa, it has been about a year since I asked questions about setting up my first marine aquarium. Everything has gone well but now I am really interested in starting a small reef system. My tank dimensions are 36" long 23.5"wide and 24" deep. I have searched all over to find correct lighting for a mini reef and have narrowed it down to 2 options. 1) 2 power compact retro kits each holding 2 lamps of 96w each, 1 10000k daylight and 1 actinic. the second option that I am thinking about is a hood containing 1 175w 6700K metal halide and 2 power compact 55w actinics. << Go with option #2.  I have that type of tank, and have had both lighting options.  I recommend, and love my halides. >> I don't know if the Power compacts will be enough to reach the bottom of the tank, I have not decided which corals to keep as I do not want to mix to many different animals as this I feel is a sure way to slowly kill them in such a small space, so I would like it to be species specific, but I do know that the animals that are available to us in South Africa come from really shallow parts of the ocean as the sales guy at the LFS said. Will power compacts be enough if I keep mushrooms at the bottom << Yes but just about any light will grow mushrooms. >> and the light loving animals in the top 1/2 of the tank or should I aim at the 175 w metal Halide fixture. Any suggestions will be appreciated. << You won't regret getting more light.  In fact in a few months you may want even more than the halide set up.  I would avoid the pc retro kit because I really think you'll want to upgrade too soon. >> Regards Robert <<  Adam Blundell  >>

Brilliant Book brought me success - any more thoughts? Dear Robert, <Michele> First and foremost, I would like to thank you, profoundly, for writing "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" - my reef tank bible.  I realize, of course, that your book is not intended to be an encyclopedia of reef keeping, yet, as I have researched, and consulted, experimented, loved and lost, your book, is indeed, an accurate prediction of outcomes. <Much good help went into its production> Second, I would like to apologize for any errors; I am an architect, not a writer.  Although, I find I do an enormous amount of writing despite my "visual" career choice! Finally, after two years of loving my 55 gal. Reef tank, I have decided to upgrade my system to a 180- 210 gal. Aquarium.  So, here is the conundrum - I researched for 4 months before starting my 55 gal.  And now, as I am upgrading, and have the time, and after consideration, the money, I would like to be able to create an ecosystem.  Meaning, I would like to design the system with the long term health and welfare of my charges in mind.    I would like to prevent the long term deterioration of the system, and would prefer to create a system that matures and flourishes as time passes. My 55 gal. Encompasses the following: Equipment: 55 G. glass Tank (It doesn't scratch!  Thus new tank is going to be glass?) (2) 175 W. 10000K MH, (2) 110 VHO Blue Actinic EuroReef Skimmer (ES-5) 15 G. Sump w/ a carbon bag in the sump Foam Pre-Filter In tank power head - lots of flow. 72 lbs live rock 5" deep live sand bed 250W heater. Live Stock: Misc. red leg & blue leg hermit crabs (3) species of snail Red Brittle Star (2) Sand sifting Star (2) Emerald Crabs (2) cleaner/skunk shrimp (1) peppermint shrimp Yellow Tang - wish he was fatter. Flame Angle - god he is fat! (2) Fire Fish - both same sex, unfortunately. (5) Blue Chromis (2) Ocellaris Clown Fish - Probably, by now, a true pair. Yellow Headed Jaw Fish Pink Colts Coral - growing like mad (Clowns have taken this as host!) Red & Blue Mushrooms - Both reproducing Plate Coral - billowing. (2) species of Pulsing Xenia - Growing like mad Star Polyps - spreading over everything, could become a nuisance? Orange, Blue, Green zoanthids, not growing as quickly as star polyps. Sawblade Caulerpa - Tang does not eat these - why? Unidentified species of something (Anemone) - Purple tips, Green arms, white column.  1.5"  noticed at less than 1cm.  and grown. Losses: (2) Banggai Cardinals - wouldn't eat.  I feed a combination of frozen foods:  Mysis shrimp, and Formula Two, finely chopped and dissolved in a cup of tank water which I pore directly into the tank near the power head.  Even dosed with Garlic… Note on these fish:  I have read in your book, as well as numerous other sources, that these fish are easy to acclimate to aquarium life.  After consultation with other fish folks, I do not believe this to be the case. They are very shy, require live food, at least at first, and a fully aged aquarium with an abundance of live rock life - which I believe they feed on @ night.  They should be considered fragile and not for the beginner. <Agreed> Carpet anemone - wouldn't settle in - died, I removed prior to contamination - smelled vile and I believe the contamination killed my Flower Pot coral which was doing great.  The clown fish were not interested - although, I have read that they have a predetermination at birth based upon the anemone they were first born near? <Not altogether> Flower Pot Coral, see above. Maintenance: 10% water changes once a week. PH/Alk buffer added to my R/O water in rations that equal requirements for week Periodic doses of iodine, strontium/ molybdenum every 2 - 3 weeks again in small doses to my r/o water. Skimmer cup emptied/cleaned twice a week depending Carbon changed every 2 months. Occasionally purchase a leafy algae species which the tang, angle and crabs gobble up until gone. SO: Now that I want to upgrade - gee how to do it right! Since I will be doing this in a renovated 1911 home - I can adjust the physical surroundings as required to meet the needs of this aquarium.  Thus the BIG QUESTIONS: FILTRATION!  Refugium:  I want to design a sump that encompasses a refugium.  Do you think this is a good idea? <Yes> If so, should I skim my tank water before the refugium and then again after? <After only> I am planning on purchasing a EuroReef CS-12 for the tank, and could use my existing ES-5 for the refugium water prior to its return to the tank? <I'd just use one or the other> Can I light my refugium with the cheaper fluorescent - grow lights? <Yes> How many gal. Of water should my sump/refugium allow for?  Physical limitations:  90L x   29"D x 36"H. Water changes:  Can I do 5% once a week and still maintain health?  I am concerned about attempting to cart 20Gal. Of salt + 10 Gal. R/O water every week! <Likely ten percent would be better> Lighting:  Can I maintain a 210 gal.  29" deep aquarium with my current lights if I add a supplemental 250W MH/VHO 2' fixture?  Goal of coral growth should be in line with species friendly to existing. <Should be fine... you can update later if you see this as necessary, desirable> Chiller:  Manufacturer + model recommendations? <Skip if you can. A fan over your sump will likely do> Live Sand Bed:  continue with the 5" sand bed.  Is this still considered the best way to filter?  And, current live sand is fine, should I supplement with courser grained material? <Five inches is fine... I would not change your current approach> Live Rock:  Planning on the typ. 1.25lbs/gal. Of rock. I have added live stock very slowly.  Typically 1 month minimum between inhabitants.  I also cured my live rock in my tank prior to adding the live sand and the cleaning crew.  Thought this might make it feel more like   "home"? or just give it a grave yard feel!  Am thinking of curing the live rock again in the large tank and then moving the inhabitants of current tank into the large tank…. Any thoughts or suggestions you might have would be appreciated.  THX. In summation:  Your book was the benchmark.  Please, if you have the time or the inclination, write a detailed reef only version.  God knows, knowledge is priceless and communication is the means from which we all grow. <A cursory read through our website, www.WetWebMedia.com will likely serve to gain you further insights> I know this email may be tedious - if you do not have the time to answer, please pass it on to someone who may have the time & the experience to be able to offer suggestions - with regards to the failures of the current system and suggestions for improvements in the upgraded system. Thanks so much for your time and attention to these matters. Best Regards, Michele Kolbinsky <A pleasure to meet, share with you. Bob Fenner>

Just basic questions <Hi Danny> Hello everyone, and like always thank you for a wonderful site. <Thank you> Being new to this hobby( four months to be exact) I may have quit early had I not found this website. My questions are pretty general, yet I'm still confused. My 55gal tank was initially set up as a FOWLR. I have 60lbs of live rock, and maybe 100lbs of crushed coral creating a four inch bed. I have two ocellaris clowns and one Firefish in quarantine. I have a remora pro skimmer (hang on) and a Fluval 304. I also have a Rio 200 and 50 for additional water movement. Though I never thought I would, I am now interested in starting a mini reef. <GREAT> My questions are as follows: Can I still use my crushed coral? <Actually crushed coral can be a good place for pods to breed.>  Can I add a little live sand on top? <I would not suggest doing that for many reason but the most basic is the bacterial bed> I do plan on purchasing two small hang on refugiums from CPR and using live sand in them. Will this be counterproductive using live sand in the refugiums, and crushed coral in the display tank? <Actually, probably a very good deal.  I'm a huge fan of refugiums.> Also what types of lighting do you recommend? <The lighting will need to be suitable for what you plan to put into your aquarium.  I encourage you to research thoroughly the creatures you add to your aquarium so you can provide what they need. I can tell you for my part that this website is huge with knowledge on the animals and their requirements.  Bob and the rest of the crew have done an amazing job. (Speaking as the newest member of the crew.)> I am currently using an eclipse hood with four 15 watt fluorescent lights. I only know that I would like to get a anemone for the clowns right now, but would like good lighting for the future. <Please get your lighting ready before you add the anemone.  The clowns will be just fine without an anemone until you are ready.> I'm pretty sure I wont get as serious as some of the other hobbyist (my other hobby is my 2 yr old son) <priorities are important> but none to less would still buy good lights for the future. I also plan to purchase more LR, so If I do decide on live sand, can these both be cycled at the same time, in the same tank? <Any addition of life rock and or live sand could potentially have an effect on your tank. It can cause the ammonia to rise and start some mini cycles so the trick is to add things very slowly.> I have also been reading that my Fluval may be a nitrate hazard. <It's not the Fluval so much as the media within.  I know people who run empty canisters that don't have the problem as long as they are cleaned periodically.  Also, should you add the refugium, the sea grasses and Caulerpas should help to balance the nitrates.> Should I rid my system of this, since my nitrates stay at a constant 10ppm? Could also use some suggestions on how to lower the heat in my tank. Temp. stays at 78 -80 degrees with hood up and heater at lowest temp. With hood down, temp. hovers around 80-82 degrees. Summer heat also boost temp. in tank. <You might find the addition of fans takes your temperature to where it should be. Also, switching the heater to one that's more digitally accurate?> Although not a tremendous problem, scared that a good N. California heat spell could jump tank another two degrees to 82-84 plus. My tank is 19 inches deep, 4 feet long, 14 inches wide. Sorry for the long questionnaire, just wanted to get all my questions out in one go around. <Hope I was able to help and point you in the right direction.> Once again thank you guys for everything. <Good luck, Mac>

- System Building - Hi all you good crew, Hope you're all fit & healthy. <I hope so too...> I would, if at all possible, like to enlist your help in the building of my new marine system. This project is going to take me up to 3 months and I have a million and one questions I would like to fire at you over this period if I may? <I'd really encourage you to spend some of that time reading instead - many of the questions folks ask us are repetitive, and we archive them ALL for folks like you to read through. Please avail yourself to the pages within www.WetWebMedia.com first - ask questions once you can't find the answer anywhere else.> This will be a full blown reef system and as always there are many obstacles to climb, as I am finding out even in the planning stage. I will start by trying to outline (verbally) what I am trying to achieve. I would very much like to send you a rough drawing to make it clearer to you if that's ok? One of the goals in this exercise is to make access to the daily/weekly chores i.e. skimmer cups, chemical filtration material renewal, Water changes etc easily accessible with no (or not too much at least) bending due to a back injury. In a nutshell the display tank (tanks?) will be six feet in length either one tank or a 4x2x2 plus a 2x2x2 next to each other. The main reason for having two tanks if needed is because I have a BTA and I now know (thanks to you guys) that this very much limits what I can put in this tank, especially when it comes to sessile inverts. Right, the tank will be against a wall and behind that wall I have a small storage room, (closet to you!) This is where all and I mean all, of the filtration will take place. Below I will list what these filters will be and roughly how they will be utilized. For arguments sake I will ask the following questions based on a 6x2x2 display. Main tank aiming at 15x per hour turnover. Will 5 x 2" holes be too much in a 6' for outlet to sump? <No.> And where is the best place to put these holes? I was thinking of near the top at the back of the tank with some kind of weir along the entire length at the back? <That would work fine.> Or would it be better to put hem down one side? <No - best to keep overflows near the top incase the power fails - you wouldn't want to drain the entire tank into something that isn't prepared to hold that volume of water.> From main display then to... main sump, 55 gallons (on floor) with two Eheim 1264's for the main return to the display tank. <If I'm not mistaken, this will not give you 15x turnover.> This sump will basically be one tank with just foam pads for mechanical filtration. Now comes my first real question and is the basis for this setup. Will it be possible to pump from the sump, UP 7 feet to a DSB (15 (UK) gallons) with mangroves and other algae for NNR... then this all flows under gravity to another DSB (15 gallons) underneath the first one... <It is possible, yes.> This will be for pod production etc... from here, under gravity down again to a tank housing the two skimmers and chemical (carbon/PolyFilters etc)... and from hear down back to the main 55 gallon sump on the floor. Does this make any sense or am I trying to make it more complicated than it need be? <Makes sense - you may find yourself challenged for space in a closet - consider getting some cardboard boxes the approximate size of the equipment you wish to place in this location and set it up - make sure you can still move in there and that your requirement for limited bending will be met.> I want to get rid of canister filters (or maybe just keep one on the system for QT tank or hospital tank use in emergency) <Good plan.> OK that's it for now my friends. I hope I made my intentions clear enough and if you have any questions please ask. Many, Many thanks. Simon. <Cheers, J -- > 

Getting It Right From The Start! (System Design) Hi all you good crew, My saviors ( or should I say savouries!!) Hope you're all fit & healthy. <Doin' my best!> I would, if at all possible, like to enlist your help in the building of my new marine system. This project is going to take me up to 3 months and I have a million and one questions I would like to fire at you over this period if I may? <I will only answer the first million questions, okay? LOL> This will be a full blown reef system and as always there are many obstacles to climb, as I am finding out even in the planning stage. I will start by trying to outline (verbally) what I am trying to achieve. I would very much like to send you a rough drawing to make it clearer to you if that's ok? One of the goals in this exercise is to make access to the daily/weekly chores i.e. skimmer cups, chemical filtration material renewal, Water changes etc easily accessible with no (or not too much at least) bending due to a back injury. <Really good thinking! It's so much easier to design your system with these chores in mind!> In a nutshell the display tank (tanks?) will be six feet in length either one tank or a 4x2x2 plus a 2x2x2 next to each other. The main reason for having two tanks if needed is because I have a BTA and I now know (thanks to you guys) that this very much limits what I can put in his tank, especially when it comes to sessile ( and motile) inverts. <Cool- glad that we were a positive influence for you on that one!> ............Right, the tank will be against a wall and behind that wall I have a small storage room, (closet to you!) This is where all and I mean all, of the filtration will take place. Below I will list what these filters will be and roughly how they will be utilized.  For arguments sake I will ask the following questions based on a 6x2x2 display. <Okay!> Main tank aiming at 20x per hour turnover. Will 5 x 2" holes be too much in a 6' for outlet to sump? <More than you probably need, but certainly workable. I'd get some extra bulkheads that you can use to block them as needed> And where is the best place to put these holes?......(The closet behind the tank is the width of only half the tank) I was thinking of near the top at the back of the tank with some kind of weir along the entire length at the back? How would I achieve this? <A full-length overflow is a really neat idea. Do get a copy of Anthony Calfo's "Book of Coral Propagation" for a complete discussion of this concept> Or would it be better to put the holes down one side?......So the water will then flow From main display then downwards to main sump, 55 gallons (on floor) with two Eheim 1264's for the main return to the display tank. This sump will basically be one tank with just foam pads for mechanical filtration. <Personally, I'd ditch the Eheim. They are wonderful filters, but with an efficient "natural" sump system, these will be unnecessary, and could contribute to nutrient accumulation if the media are not replaced/cleaned often. Plus, you'll save $$ on electricity over time! Better to invest in a good protein skimmer, IMO> Pod production: Now comes my first real question and is the basis for this setup. Will it be possible to pump from the 55g sump, UP 7 feet to a 15 gallon live with live rock DSB (15 (UK) gallons) This will be for pod production etc .........from here, under gravity down again to main display tank, NNR. <Sounds really nice! I like the idea, if you can pull it off. You just need to have a pump that can operate under the required head pressure> Another pump from the 55g sump up to another DSB (15 gallons) underneath the "pod production" tank. This time with mangroves and other algae in it for NNR this will also flow under gravity back to a 20g tank, where all the skimming takes place. <Cool...I really like your concept so far!>Next will be a tank where all the skimming takes place and then chemical (carbon/PolyFilter etc) ..........and from here down back to the main 55 gallon sump on the floor. <Normally, I'd go with the skimming first, so that the skimmer receives a constant flow of the most organic-rich water from the display. However, if you're using the mangrove/macroalgae refugium and 'pod production facility, then it sounds like your skimmer is fine where you plan on placing it> Return to main display This is then returned to the main display.  Does this make any sense or am I trying to make it more complicated than it need be? I have all this space and I hate canister filters with a passion and would want to get rid of my Lifeguard 600 too. <Yep- I'd dump the canister filters. If your system is set up as you plan it, you'll have great natural biological filtration, nutrient export and denitrification, and won't have to use these filters on any type of regular basis.> Maybe I will keep just one canister filter for QT tank or hospital tank use in emergency. <A great idea. Keep a filter sponge or other media in the sump to help "colonize" beneficial bacteria when not required. Then, when you to set up the QT, your filter is ready to go!> OK that's it for now my friends. I hope I made my intentions clear enough and if you have any questions please ask. Many, Many thanks. Simon. <Simon, your concept sounds terrific. I will be very excited to hear how it evolves. Feel free to write us again any time should you require additional feedback! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Up and Coming Reef Ryan, I suppose now would be a good time to toss another subject at you and see if you have any advice. Two weeks ago I set up another tank. It is a 265 gallon tank with 500lbs of Tonga shelf and branch rock. The tank has a turbo floater t-5000 protein skimmer, a wave maker, 6 MaxiJets, 110 gallon custom sump, two overflow boxes, 240lbs of CaribSea Aragonite, 3 175watt metal halides with 20,000k bulb, two power compact pendants, three 300 watt heaters, automatic temperature and ph meters, and the system is set up to top off with RO/DI water. I am in the process of allowing the tank to cycle currently. Do you have any recommendation for other products, specific corals that will do well in this environment, or what not to do? <Brian, it sounds like this tank is very well planned. I would encourage you to look into a biotopic display. The Tonga shelf and branch rock is a perfect place to start- And if you stick with all animals from Tongan Reefs (i.e. Colorful wrasses, gold Sarcophytons, hardy butterflies, frilly mushrooms, etc.) you'll not only have a more natural looking display, but the hitchhikers (sponges, misc. corals) will actually add to the overall appearance. I actually think that Tongan reefs are the most breathtaking. These animals already have the tools to coexist, so there is very little adaptation needed from the inhabitants. I'd sure love to see a few pictures once you're up and running! Good luck, Ryan> Brian 

Setup Review... Hello Gentlemen.....Thanks for reading this......Here's the question.....My tank is a custom made 120 Gallon with typical dimensions...48 L X 24 H X 24 D.. however I had it built with dual 1 1/2 " overflows with Dursos and 21 linear inches of overflow...and dual 3/4 inch returns split and run to nozzles on each corner of the tank.. two in the upper rear corners and two in the lower front corners, each pointing towards the center of the tank. My intended corals are colorful zoanthids and other assorted softs, both light loving and low to moderate light loving. Thrown into the mix will most assuredly be a few brains and possibly one moon. <Nice corals, but an unnatural mix. You may want to reconsider this...> And a clam of some sort. Question is, will 2 175 watt 10 K MH and 2 110 watt VHO URI actinic be sufficient light to support this ? or can I go with all VHO or all PC or mixed PC and VHO? <For maximum versatility, I'd go with all halides> Second question is, my intended pumps were going to be 2 Iwaki RLT 55's for return only from 65 gallon sump running no other equipment.. Chiller has its own pump and Euroreef CS8-4 external has its own pumps. Will the Iwakis provide sufficient flow used this way or will they be too much for these corals? <I like the Iwakis for this setup. You can always dial down the flow, or direct it elsewhere if it's too much> Or should I go larger ? <I like your pump selection as it stands. These pumps will do about 1050 gph each- plenty of low for this system and the inhabitants you are interested in.> Thank you for your time...Anthony <You're quite welcome! Regards, Scott F> 

New System Overview Good Afternoon, <Hello! Ryan with you> Thank you for your service.  I am setting up my third saltwater aquarium.  The first two are doing well, but I made some of the same mistakes that so many do.  Cheap equipment, wrong fish, etc.  I have one tank that was three damsels and a large Maroon Clown.  The tank exists because I bought the cute damsels after the LFS assured me they were peaceful fish and would get along fine.  I had to remove them from my main tank in order for any form of peace to exist.  I do not want the same mistake again.  The tank I am setting up has been a slow process and will remain that way.  I have purchased quality items as I could justify them.  It will be a 140 gallon  reef tank,  it is a half circle tank, I have an aqua C EV180 protein skimmer with a Mag 7 pump.  The tank will have 250 W, 10,000 MH Bulbs (2), and 65W PC Actinic (2).  I will also have two 20 gallon acrylic tanks that I will use for the sump and refugium. <Great! Sounds like you're doing your homework this time around> I should have approximately 1500 GPH turn over and in addition two Squids/SCWDs.  I will have a 5 -6 " Deep sand bed in the main tank and about 125 lbs of live rock.  The live rock I have purchased over the last 6 months and have cured all of it for several months.  I am about ready to start actually filling the 140 gallon tank.  I will let that cycle for a month or two with just sand and live rock.  I want to have a reef tank, but as far as fish, I want to go with small, colorful, peaceful, school type fish. <Great choices available> I enjoy the color and motion more then some of the large more aggressive fish.  I would much rather have two or three small schools of fish then large tangs and the like.  So, the question - what would me a good combination, quantity and stocking order of fish given the above information? <I really like "Chalk Basslets," Serranus tortugarum.  Great, peaceful grouping fish.  Also a wonderful small group is a harem of flasher wrasse- 1 male, 2-3 females.> Question 2 - Is it best to use a different size substrate in the refugium then the display tank? <I prefer a larger grain sand in the refugium, as larger grains are more supportive of higher pod populations> and finally question 3 - I have two cleaner shrimp in my 55 gallon tank.  I also have a Candy Cane Coral.  When I feed the Candy Cane, the shrimp will steal the food from the Candy Cane Coral. <I once read that sandbed guru Dr. Ron Shimek felt that the only place peppermint shrimp should be is on a Ritz cracker!  They can be a real problem, stealing food before polyps have the chance to eat.> Is there some way around this? <Not really-They're opportunists by nature> Is it best not to have shrimp in a reef tank? <They can obliterate pod populations, and will kill all sorts of beneficial critters.  I'm not in favor of peppermint shrimp in a naturally filtered reef tank.> Thank you for your time.  It is amazing how addicting this hobby can be. <It's a powerful feeling to reconstruct an eco-system, and a daunting task.  I wish you the best of luck! Ryan> Tracy

Upgrades (5/2/2004)    Two months ago I started my 1st reef tank. Everything is going quite well.  I started with a 37 gal tank. You guessed it. Too small, too many limitations. <Sounds like my room> I hate not having the width and am unable to have a sump due to a center support in the base cabinet. I think I'd like to make the move to a larger tank in 3 or 4 months but in the interim I could be purchasing the required supplies. I have an opportunity to purchase a 58 gal Oceanic tank and have it drilled. I'd sell the tank and the stand. I could keep my 30" wide PC's for this but would have to use the glass cover (can't use the legs) in addition to purchasing a single 96w PC for a total of 226 watts. <Perfect for coralline, 'shrooms, and most soft corals> After rock and a DSB I figure I'll have 4-4 1/2 watts/gallon - good enough I figure for softies/mushrooms. <Quite so> I'm also kicking around the idea of purchasing either a 75 or 72 gallon "reef ready" tank and attempting to sell my lights/tank/stand to purchase new lights (MH ???) <Decision should mostly depend on what you're interested in keeping>. I love the looks of the bow tank but I'm not sure of the drawbacks they may present.  <In terms of?> I know I want to have a sump and I'm intrigued by the use of manifolds. Are there diagrams available that would give you the detailed specs. for such a set up. For instance, I'd begin with what size holes to drill in the tank?  Specs. for the plumbing? <www.reefcentral.com has an excellent DIY forum, and a google search reveals some intriguing results as well> Optimally, what size return pump? <You mean, what GPH?  For a 75 gallon tank and using a manifold as your only source of water movement, you'll want to look at something that moves about 1000 GPH, which should meet your needs after head and other restrictions are calculated in> After making the mistake with my initial purchase I don't think my wife would be so understanding the 2nd time around - bless her heart.  <Can't blame her :)> Regards,  Bill <Anytime.  M. Maddox>

Reef tank wave setup Hi, <Hello. Graham at your service!> I have a 125 gal Salt water corner show tank. It's 32" high, and 36" wide @ two sides and 37 1/2 " across the front. I am setting it up as a reef tank w/ the reef walls along the two sides. To save water volume, increase swimming space and increase current potential I built some PVC shelves on the 2 sides of the tank 22" high, 6 wide, and 14 long to build my reef around. I will set the live rock around and on top of it. That way the fish can swim around the back a little more and I don't loose as much water volume when I add the rock. I want to put some power heads in the tank under the shelves and hook them up to a wave machine. >From there I can point them in different directions and you won't see them. I have a 40 gal sump underneath w/ a Mag drive 1200. The output from it has a 4 1/2 foot rise and dumps into the tank at the top center thru a flex splitter w/ two ports (sorry I'm not sure what it's really called so I described it for ya). <I see one small problem with this. If you choose to hide the powerheads within the rock, make sure you can easily have access to the powerheads and can take them out if they ever need repairing or cleaning.> I want to use JBJ powerheads. Does the set up sound good? <JBJ will work. However, I'm very fond of Maxi-Jet powerheads.> What size powerheads? How many? <It really depends what species of coral you're wishing to keep. As an example, Acropora would need considerably more flow than zoanthids would. As a start, I would try to get around 900-1000gph of power heads.> Suggestions for direction to point them? <I would lay one near the bottom of the tank, pointing upwards, one on the right side of the tank pointing left, one on the left side of the tank pointing right, and possibly another powerhead of your choice.> Suggestions for the tank? <I would invest some of your money in a WaveMaker. The RedSea WaveMaster pro is a very good unit which is able to power four powerheads. This Wavemaker is very easy to setup. You simply plug the powerheads into the back of the wavemaker, and plug the wavemaker in. You then can setup how much current you wish to have in your tank and what flow you would like. It's also priced at a very reasonable price.> Thanks for any advice you can give me. <No problem!> Please hurry I'm anxious to get going on the set up. :) -Kevin <Take Care! Graham.>

72g bowfront Hello <How goes it, Michael here> I am in the process of setting up a reef tank 72 g bowfront <How deep?> I want to eventfully keep a clam & an Anemone. The question I have goes to lighting and water movement.  If I was to try to keep the clam & an Anemone on the bottom of the tank:  1. Would 4 x 96 power compact lighting be sufficient and if not how much more pc lighting would I need <You may have success with some of the lower light tolerant clams such as Squamosas, but pretty much all Tridacna clams do better under relatively intense metal halide lighting. However, (depending upon the species, but in general) the PC lighting should be fine for anemones, depending upon the water depth>  OR  2. 2 HQI 150 w de metal halide 16 k bulbs, how far up from the top of the aquarium do I need to mount the MH? <This sounds like a much better lighting scheme for clams. Mounting height really depends upon the depth of the tank, but as a rule of thumb not closer than 4" and not higher than 12". You may want to supplement the halides with some PC actinic, as well>  3. Heat, some have told me that the PC lighting setting top of the glass aquarium cover will heat that tank as much as the MH would <Definitely a possibility. You may want to purchase a hood with cooling fans, or install some yourself. Anthony Calfo's book of Coral Propagation has DIY guides, as does the internet>  4. Which is more power efficient to run $$$ PC lighting or MH with a electronic ballast? <Seeing as how watts=Amps x Volts, the power consumption is the wattage. 300 watts of metal halide compared to 384 watts of PC lighting would precipitate to the metal halides consuming less actual electricity.>  5. Water movement I was thinking of using 2 Rio hyper flow rh32 1920gph is this enough, too much, to little? <Depends how you go about it. If these pumps were used in a closed loop that delivered flow to various parts of the aquarium, they would be fine. If you're just going to have them delivering laminar flow to 2 spots in the aquarium, you seriously need to rethink your water movement>  Any feedback is greatly appreciated <No problems>  Ken <M. Maddox>

First marine attempt  Hello,  <Howdy>  I'm a brand new marine hopeful.... I recently purchased my first tank and equipment -- a 30-gallon cube-shaped tank with a powerful canister, live sand and rock, a hood, light and a heater.  Now.....I also purchased your book and was discouraged to find that 30 gallons is less than ideal. I have determined to purchase a significantly larger tank and the necessary apparatus, but since I've come this far, I would like to go ahead and make this system work, but after reading your words of warning, I am cautious about what and how much to add. I like chemistry and I can be disciplined with the upkeep.  <A good trait/characteristic>  Knowing in advance that you don't recommend a system this size, I'm hoping for a bit of advice. Do you recommend avoiding a reef system entirely in a 30-gallon system?  <Not necessarily... but do urge even further research, diligence in making investments, livestock additions, changes in such smaller volumes>  I plan to stick with your recommendations for fish -- Hawkfish, blenny, etc. What about a single Jawfish?  <Possibly... though I would likely cross a/the Hawkfish off your list>  And, finally, I would love to have featherdusters. Suggestions?  <Tube-dwelling worms would be very nice. I strongly encourage your taking the time between waiting on the curing of your live rock to peruse the many articles and FAQs files archived on our site, www.WetWebMedia.com. Bob Fenner>  Thank you ~  Kind regards, Crescent  Dundee, Oregon

FOWLR TO Reef!  I currently have a 55g saltwater with a Percula and Maroon clown (no live rock). I'm using a Eheim canister filter, Seaclone skimmer, powerhead, and 48in strip light with actinic bulb. I want to add live rock, already have sand, mixed live and aquarium sand. Will it kill my clownfish if I add small amts of live rock purchased from LFS at a time?  <Well, if you are purchasing or using "cured" live rock, the impact on your water quality should be negligible, and the long-term benefits will be many. Make sure that your protein skimmer is working hard!>  I mainly want corals. What type of lighting do you suggest I get?  <Wow! That's the million dollar question! Really depends on the type of corals that you intend to keep. Personally, I'm a bit partial to metal halide, for the flexibility that it affords. You may want to consider the double-ended (HQI) pendants that are available from manufacturers like Sunlight Supply and PFO (go for 150 watt pendants if you go this route. They are reasonably priced, and give you the ability to keep a great variety of animals healthy and happy.>  Thanks for all your information  <My pleasure! Good luck with your new adventure! Regards, Scott F>

Mini reef setup - 4/7/04 Sorry for the long dissertation, but I felt a good back ground would help when giving me your thoughts. "<Always a good idea> To start, here is my mini-reef setup data: The tank is a 20-gallon Via Aqua all glass with curved edges in the front. The dimensions are 20L x 13W x 19H with an open canopy. The lighting is a PC with 2 36 watt lights, one white and one actinic blue. The filter is a Via Aqua VA780 that hangs on the back with a built in venture protein skimmer <Hmmmm....> and a 5-watt UV sterilizer turning 150 GPH. <Likely overkill and a waste of money but if it came with the setup (all inclusive) well.....then.....>  The tank uses cartridge filters that have a very small amount of carbon in them and they suggest changing them monthly. <I would change a little more frequently> The heater is a 100-watt heater that sits in the filter chamber. <Good enough> I have three power heads for circulation, 1 swivel head at 226 GPH, 2 standard at 200 GPH. I have the swivel and one standard working the top half of the tank, at each side pointing to the middle front of the tank creating nice movement. <only time will tell if there is enough current/flow as algae build up is usually the by-product (combined with high nutrients)> The last power head is located near the bottom blowing water directly across the back of the tank to avoid any dead spots. <excellent> The thermometer is a digital one for improved accuracy and located in the lower center of the back glass ( Temp 77-79 steady). <Love the digital readouts. Be sure to check them by comparing with a known good thermometer for temp accuracy> I plan on using a fan to cool during hotter times. <Sounds like my setup. I too have a 20 gallon. BakPak skimmer, heater and fan using an Aqualogic dual phase controller to turn the fan on when too hot (above 81) or the heater when the temp drops below 77.5 I have a 250w PFO lighting system though>  I use RO water for top off and will perform 2 gallon water changes every weekend. <Sounds good. As the algae cycle continues for a few months (will come in time. Always does) then you might want to up the changes> I started my tank by adding 40 pounds of Carib Sea Arag Alive Sand to about 2.5-3.0 inches deep. <I think a minimum of 3 inches is good but below that could become an issue in the long run>  I started the cycle using a medium size piece of raw shrimp <Good idea instead of a live one or some damsel> and once the cycle took place, about two weeks, my reading are as follows:  Ammonia "0", Nitrite "0", Nitrate "5", PH "8.4", salinity "1.022". <Sounds good. I like my salinity to be about 1.025 or so with my density to be around 35ppt> I am very patient,<A good trait to have in this hobby> so after four weeks I added some live rock ruble from a friends cycled tank to see what would happen.  I know have a little algae bloom, but very minor with some brown and green mainly, but very small amount of red. <Coralline will come in time. The water, substrate, rock, need to age to water conditions and stability. Give it a few more months> My next step is to add 3 large pieces of cycled base rock, also from my friends tank and a small cleanup crew.  I will wait two weeks and if all is well, add my premium Fiji branch and rock mix. <Sounds like a great plan> I expect a little spike in water quality, <Could be a little cycle or could be a lot. I would cycle the live rock for four weeks in a separate container or just add it now before adding the cleanup crew> but hopefully nothing to worry about. <Never count on it being "nothing to worry about">  After a few weeks, I would begin to build by inhabitants. <Excellent> My plans are to make this a coral tank with only three-four small fish and several varieties of soft corals. <No more than four fish (small) would be fine> Do you feel that the setup I have will support a long term healthy tank or I should make any changes. <Well, depends on the kind of coral. You might want to add more lighting if you plan to keep SPS or clams. I like either PCs or MH. But I think 2x36 watt PCs is not quite enough PAR for SPS. You will likely do well with a variety of soft corals, though. Also, I have no experience with the ViaAqua equipment and I have never heard of the skimmer you mention (or integration) so if it fails to produce skimmate you might want to upgrade to a CPR BakPak or Remora from AquaC as I have used these in small reef setups with great success. Sounds good otherwise. Enjoy. ~Paul> Sincerely,

Setting up a reef tank 4/5/04 Anthony, Thanks for the fast response!  You've also turned me around before I spent money, thank you!  So, this has led to further questions: 1.  If I reduce the 3 MH lights from 250W to 175W, still sticking with Aqualines, would this reduce the light enough to allow for mushrooms and zoanthids?   <yes, indeed... to be kept mostly in the bottom third of the tank (some genera/species excluded by favoring brighter light like Ricordea)> If it's close, would putting them near the bottom, or under ledges help?   <correct> Would reducing the lighting period help?   <generally a very bad habit> Bringing the PCs up first, then the two outside MH's, and finally the center MH, shutting them down in reverse? <many possibilities here> 2.  Besides the 2 20g refugiums already running on the old tank, I was considering adding a 10g at the top of the rack and keep peppermint shrimp there to breed, with the return running back to the main display tank.  Would 10g be large enough?   <nifty, yes> I can get another 20, but it will be up pretty high.  I considered trying to acclimate black mollies both as an experiment and the hope of more free food, but I can't seem to find any that look healthy enough to bother trying. 3.  Reading more articles here, I have discovered the issue of not using RO/DI directly for make up water.  When doing water changes I have always followed precautions, but feed make up directly. <yikes! at best this is a burden to you ALK and/or pH> Since I have so much to order for this new tank anyway and cost isn't an issue, do you think the Kold Ster-il would work better just for automated make up water?   <a very nice unit, although I'm still sold on simple 2-column de-ionizers> I know now even THAT is best not added directly.  I was considering a temporary holding tub that would be replenished automatically, but continuously aerated and heated, then gravity fed to the sump with a float valve.  Possibly keeping a good bed of crushed coral or aragonite in the bottom to help a little?   <the latter being overkill/unneeded or complicating> Since I already have it, the RO/DI would still be used for water changes.  The system will also have a calcium reactor. Thanks again!!!!! <sounds like it will be a great system/start. Kindly, Anthony>

Lighting 90 gallon reef 3/28/04 I am getting close to having all the necessary pieces together for my 90 Reef Tank but now am at the all important lighting decision phase. Here is what I am planning to use. I have access to very cheap Metal Halide system using two 250W MH bulbs at 8500K and 18,000 lumens per bulb. Will these two lights be sufficient or will other lighting with a higher K rating be needed. Thanks for all the great info on this site. Erik in Spokane <its impossible to pick one's lights before you pick your species that will be kept (cnidarians have such very different needs!). Its like asking "What should I feed my pet" without stating if your pet is a bird, dog, cat or fish. Please take the time to read through our very extensive archives at WetWebMedia.Com on the topic of marine lighting and beyond. I have several recent and concise articles there myself. Anthony>

A Tank in Paradise hello, <Hi! Ryan with you today> I would be so very grateful if you could help me set-up my dream which is a reef aquarium <I will be happy to help> I wouldn't say I'm a new to this field but I'm someone who's been trying different ways with the limited resource for a longtime. <I see> I'm from Maldives, which we can get any coral or fish from our backyard. <Lucky dog> but the problem is how can I thrive these in my aquarium, with the help of lot of articles, I've now finally made up mind to go for my new tank, which I hope would last much longer than my previous ones, coz I don't want to kill those animals in my tank although I can get it whenever I want. <Any living thing deserves a fair chance at life, free or pricey.> so I have a 3 feet tank and my biggest problems comes when it comes to filtration. <I see> I have a sump which is bigger than my tank, which is divided into four parts. before I always submerge the biomedia, it works too in converting ammonia and nitrate, but I hear that trickling water through biomedia works much better, so I've made a trickling tower filled with conduit tube pieces which I assume will work close to bioballs in doing the job hence I don't get bioballs here.<Do you have access to live rock?  This would be even more helpful in filtration> so my biggest question is what will happen if the siphon stops by means of a power cut or some other way, and once the media get's dry will all the bacteria survive or where does it end up, to my knowledge, if something like that happens the biomedia submerged will survive but in that case what will happen when the trickling stops. <Yes, the bacteria can die when exposed to air with no moisture.  I'd be more worried about the aquarium inhabitants during an outage, however, as oxygen levels can drop to deadly levels.> and when and why do we have to take the biomedia from the sump. or do I have to put biomedia in the sump if I'm putting live sand and live rock in the aquarium. <If you're using live rock in the display, I would simply do the same in your sump as well.  By packing it full, you're going to have better success than you would with the bio-media.  I would, however, advise you to purchase or build a large skimmer for this application.> sorry for the burden, I don't have much knowledge about the biofiltration, but with the help of limited resources I'm trying my best to achieve this goal. <I understand, and truly think you're going to have a stunning aquarium one day!> I hope that you will help me and let me know in a way that I could understand. <I will be happy to clarify if need be.  Please advise.  Ryan> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/liverock1.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm best regards Xim

What's That Smell? Hello and thanks yet again for helping so many people like me out! <We're thrilled to be here for you! Scott F. here today> Just have 3 quick questions for you that I can't seem to find in the FAQ's 1.  For a 12" CPR hang-on refugium, what type of lighting works best?  I am looking at a 2x13W PC unit and my choices of bulbs are:  6,500K white, Actinic and 11,000K white.  I am planning on growing some red macro algae (my tang's favorite) with some Caulerpa.  Going to have 4" of Mineral mud in the bottom. <Personally, I'd go with the 6500k in a refugium, especially if your intent is to grow macroalgae. Aesthetics is a second here-utility comes first.> 2.  I am getting an AquaC Remora skimmer to replace my SeaClone100.  My SeaClone is kicking out about 1/8 cup of green liquid and white foam daily.  I know that the Remora needs time to "break in".  My question is should I keep running the SeaClone for 2-3 weeks until the Remora is at 100% or just swap them (and keep a close eye on Chem levels)? <Not a bad idea to run them both at the same time for a while, but not necessary. It would be interesting to compare performance of the two, so this would be a neat experiment, I suppose> 3.  I have a sponge filter on my 500gph powerhead and I remove and clean it with my weekly 10% water change. When I do, it REALLY STINKS like dead, rotting fish!! It is bad enough to make me gag and I was a paramedic for years, and a med student now so that is hard to do (I talk blood & guts over dinner).  My Whisper filters smell the same but not nearly as bad.  Is this normal or is there something going on? <Well, these types of filter media really attract a lot of organic detritus, and stuff can decompose rapidly. This is why we advocate thorough cleaning and/or replacement of these media very frequently. It could be that there is some anaerobic activity occurring in the sponge, which can account for this stench. I prefer activated carbon, which can easily be replaced, and has the added advantage of providing nutrient absorption> I have been battling red slime algae for the last month, but the war is being won as there is less and less of it lately! <Excellent! Just stay at it!> Is this just what the algae smells like or is this the "good" bacteria in action?  Ammonia and nitrites been zero for months. <Sounds-er- smells like it> Thanks for everything!  Reading the daily FAQ's is one of the better parts of my day! <And answering them is the best part of mine! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Welcome to the Hobby! 3/23/04 Your website is packed full of information and I have enjoyed researching my first attempt at a marine aquarium. I would like to submit a few of my proposals and any feedback, recommendations or disagreements would be greatly appreciated. <welcome my friend> I would like to create a coral/fish environment in a 55 gallon glass tank. The filtration will be 70 lbs of live rock, a quality protein skimmer recommendations?) <a Euro-reef or Aqua C will be your best value in the long run (ease of use/maint, etc> and 3-4 inches of live sand/aragonite mix. <this is the bare minimum and will require more sand added in the next 12-18 months to keep it healthy. Seek 4-6" minimum instead> I would like to use 2 powerheads to help with water circulation. I am open to other suggestions) <read this article here please: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbh2oret.htm and please note the many links to follow at the top of the page(s)> I would like to use a 10 gallon sump to house heater(s), protein skimmer, chemical and mechanical filtration <this is waaaay too small bud - 20 long would be a nice minimum> but I haven't had much luck finding pre-drilled aquariums and overflows. <not sure I follow here... any LFS has access to the big mfgrs like Oceanic, Perfecto, etc with pre-drilled aquariums. Ask them to ask their tank supplier to drill the tank for you> I am a little leery of using a siphon overflow to the sump. <they are flawed and not recommended by me... ever> Is there another proven option on this size tank. <a drilled overflow is the best IMO. Consider drilling the back wall and not the floor with those noisy towers. Arghhh!> When cycling the tank with live rock is it best to use cured or uncured live rock? <there are pros and cons to both... much has been writ in our archives on this topic if you'll take the time to read it. We also have very comprehensive coverage of the topic in our new book, "Reef Invertebrates" by Calfo and Fenner> I figure that any cured live rock will be slightly un-cured when finally delivered (there must be some die off) <correct> and would that suffice or will I need to use uncured live rock to launch the nitrogen cycle? <either works... the latter is messier and more work for newbies. Go with cured for your first batch> I plan to use RO water which will be aerated, buffered (if needed) and heated before using to replace evaporation loss or for water changes. QT will be 10 gallon with pvc pieces for hiding, heater, 1 powerhead and a corner filter. <excellent> My invert plan includes 2 peppermint shrimps, 10-15 assorted algae eating snails and hermit crabs, 1 sand sifting starfish. <skip the crabs as they are ultimately predators... and skip the starfish as it will starve to death in tanks under 100 galls easily. Seek Strombus and Trochus snails from IPSF.com or some such as better species>> Corals will be a mix of mushrooms, colony polyps and soft corals. Fish will be 3 blue-green Chromis, 1 six-line wrasse and 1 farm-raised false percula clown fish. I am aware that I must introduce organisms slowly to allow the aquarium to adjust to the new bio-load. Lighting will be a 175 watt MH and two 55watt compacts. The MH will run 6-8hrs and the compacts for the pre-dawn and dusk cycle. Is this over kill? <all good> I would like to cycle the tank, wait a month, add inverts and coral slowly over the subsequent months, wait another few months and add fish slowly. <yes... good plan> This is the plan. I need the most help with ideas for the overflow and sump, also ways of introducing chemical and mechanical filtration to a sump based system. <do browse the illustrations and FAQs in our WetWebMedia.Com archives on this subject. One of my own illustrations is in there and is comprehensive if I may say so> Can you add to anything or let me know if I have a good foundation? I am looking forward to continued research and getting this rolling! Thanks, Jim <read on my friend... learn and enjoy! Anthony>

New Reef Tank Setup 3/22/04 Hello and thank you for the great advice your site is great for information. And of course I have a couple of questions. <Thanks for the kind words, and for the questions!> 1. How many stage RO water filter system is good. I figure the higher the better but what would be sufficient? <You MUST have at least a sediment pre-filter, a carbon block pre-filter and the RO membrane.  Any additional stages generally only provide small improvements.> And do I need the Osmosis Deionization (DI)? <IMO, no.  The R/O membrane will remove 90+% of most contaminants.  This is sufficient for most folks.> Is there a difference between the Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Systems vs. the regular water systems? The 4 stage drinking water systems are much cheaper then the 4 stage water filter systems. <Be sure you are comparing apples to apples.  There are different types of R/O membrane, always look for TFC.   Drinking water systems never include expensive Deionization cartridges while many aquarium systems do.  Also, the "fifth" stage on many drinking water systems is a disposable carbon block "polishing" filter which is useless for aquarium use.  If all else is equal, you may simply be paying a premium for an aquarium related product.> 2. Is there a difference between using a glass fish tank for my sump vs. a Rubbermaid container? I heard I could use either but are there pros and cons to each or which is better? <Rubber maid tubs are cheap, easy to drill, lightweight and won't shatter.  Glass tanks are see-through, don't bulge when full, come in convenient sizes.  This is largely a personal preference decision.> 3. I have seen a lot of live rock on-line and wanted your opinion on what you think is the best. My local dealer recommends Vanuatu (not sure how good this is) but I see it limited on-line and most people tend to purchase Fiji that I talk to. <No one source of rock is "the best".  Vanuatu, Marshall Islands and Kaelini tend to be very "open structured" with a lot of holes and unusual shapes.  Fiji is less expensive, but generally a bit less porous and more "boulder-ish".> Also is it better to stick to one type of rock or mix and match? <Mix and matching is great!  It increases the diversity of life and the appearance of the rock.  However, it is much cheaper to buy rock by the full box quantity, so it may not be cost effective to mix and match.> Do you think that cured or uncured is a better start for a new tank? And what process do you recommend for curing live rock? Many methods are shown on the web.  Thank you, Jason <First, we have to be clear on the definition of "cured".  Most collectors "cure" rock by scrubbing undesirable life (sponges, macroalgae, etc.) from the rock and rinsing it under salt water to remove any loose debris before shipment.  You can also order "raw" rock, which is shipped just as it is collected.  Although "curing" should refer to the removal of dead or undesirable life, and the initial death and decay of those undesirables that cannot be removed, many hobbyists refer to their initial cycle as "curing", even though the largest part of the curing process is already done for them. My personal preference is to get raw rock and remove what I consider undesirable when I receive it.  Many aquarists do not see any benefit to this, but I feel that more life is preserved when you start with raw rock.  In any case, I strongly recommend curing or cycling (as the case may be) new rock in a vessel other than the display aquarium using frequent large water changes, skimming and aggressive calcium and alkalinity maintenance.  Other than that, most of the general advice on curing/cycling can be applied.  Just remember that no matter what kind of rock you get and even if it is called "pre-cured", you should expect and be prepared for a cycle when it is added to your tank.  Best Regards!  Adam>

A Little Proof <Hey Anthony,> Well...here are some photos.....I will send some more of the equipment shots when I take them...Thanks to you and your colleagues I was able to choose the equipment and put together a cool mini reef. <I'm so happy to see the success!  Very nice indeed.  Ryan>

Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner