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FAQs on Reef Set-Up 5
Related Articles: Reef Systems, Reef Set-Up,
Being Conscientious
Save money and the
reefs By Jennifer Smith, Technology:
Putting on the Brakes: How much is too much? By
Tommy Dornhoffer,
Refugiums, Reef Filtration,
Marine System Plumbing, Marine
Aquarium Set-Up, Fish-Only Marine Set-up,
FOWLR/Fish and Invertebrate Systems,
Coldwater Systems, Small Systems,
Large Systems,
Refugiums, Marine Biotope, Marine
Landscaping, Fishwatcher's
Guides,
Related FAQs: Reef Set-Up 1, Reef
Set-Up 2, Reef Set-Up 3, Reef
Set-Up 4, Reef Set-Up 6,
Reef Set-Up 7, Reef
Set-Up 8, Reef Set-Up 9, &
Reef Tanks,
Reef Lighting, Reef
Lighting 2, Reef Filtration, &
Reef Livestocking, Reef
Livestocking 2, Reef Feeding,
Reef Disease,
Reef Maintenance,
Marine
System Plumbing, Marine Aquarium Set-Up, Live
Rock, Live Sand,
Fish-Only Marine Set-ups, FOWLR/Fish
and Invertebrate Systems, Coldwater Systems, Small
Systems, Large Systems, Reef Maintenance, Biotopic
presentations, Algal Filtration in
General, Mud Filtration 1,
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Heading For A Reef Tank
Hi Scott,
<Hello again!>
Thanks so much for your great reply!! I can rest easier now knowing I'm doing
the right things. I am very much looking forward to the reef journey!
<It's a blast! One worth taking!>
WetWebMedia is a GREAT source for information and I will be a frequent visitor
to continue learning about the hobby! Thanks again Scott!!
Bill
<My pleasure, Bill! Enjoy the journey! Regards, Scott F.>
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Tank set-up
Hi Crew,
Great site. I have gotten a lot of information reading over the last
few months.
I have a question on starting up a reef tank.
First what my setup will be. I have a 125g tank that is being
drilled.
It will have two 1.5" bulkheads for drain to sump. (an overflow in each back
corner).
Two 1" bulkheads for return in each overflow (these will be tied to a spray
bar across
the back of the tank with either five 1/2" or 3/4" tee's). I am thinking of
a Mag drive 24 in-line
as the return pump( do you think this will work or do you have other
suggestions).
<This pump should be fine>
I will also have a closed loop with a 1" line to the pump and two 1"
return lines.
The closed loop will have a Velocity T4 pump(1250g/h). The sump is a
converted
wet/dry (no bio balls). I plan on placing some live rock in this sump and
the protein skimmer,
heaters and drip the effluent from my Ca reactor here also. I also have a
30g converted tank as a refugium.
This will have a DSB and Macro algae and small PC light. I am having two 1"
bulkheads placed
in one end of the refugium to drain into the sump after the protein
skimmer. Lights on main tank are four 96w
PC, two 10k and two actinic. I know the lighting needs to be upgraded, but
will have to wait
for more funds.
I plan on placing about 150-180lbs of live rock in the main tank with
about 5" of live sand.
What I need to know is if I place the sand and rock in the tank to
cycle (rock will most likely be un-cured)
when do/can I place the snails, hermit crabs, and possibly cucumbers (sand
stirring creatures) in the tank
(any suggestions on type/number of each would be appreciated greatly).
<Place these "cleaner uppers" after the system has stabilized, advanced beyond
the non-detectible ammonia and nitrite phase. The kinds, numbers can be
researched by referring to these groups on WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner>
Thank you in advance for your help.
Keith
- Tank Setup -
Hi Crew,
Great site. I have gotten a lot of information reading over the last few months.
I have a question on starting up a reef tank.
First what my setup will be. I have a 125g tank that is being drilled. It will
have two 1.5" bulkheads for drain to sump. an overflow in each back corner). Two
1" bulkheads for return in each overflow (these will be tied to a spray bar
across the back of the tank with either five 1/2" or 3/4" tee's). I am thinking
of a Mag drive 24 in-line as the return pump (do you think this will work or do
you have other suggestions). <I sounds like it will work, sure.>
I will also have a closed loop with a 1" line to the pump and two 1" return
lines. The closed loop will have a Velocity T4 pump(1250g/h). The sump is a
converted wet/dry (no bio balls). I plan on placing some live rock in this sump
and the protein skimmer, heaters and drip the effluent from my Ca reactor here
also. I also have a 30g converted tank as a refugium.
This will have a DSB and Macro algae and small PC light. I am having two 1"
bulkheads placed in one end of the refugium to drain into the sump after the
protein skimmer. Lights on main tank are four 96w PC, two 10k and two actinic. I
know the lighting needs to be upgraded, but will have to wait for more funds.
I plan on placing about 150-180lbs of live rock in the main tank with about 5"
of live sand.
What I need to know is if I place the sand and rock in the tank to cycle (rock
will most likely be un-cured) when do/can I place the snails, hermit crabs, and
possibly cucumbers (sand stirring creatures) in the tank (any suggestions on
type/number of each would be appreciated greatly). <Would wait two to four weeks
until the sand and rock have cured... the longer you can wait, the better.>
Thank you in advance for your help.
Keith
<Cheers, J -- >
135 gallon reef
Hi,
We have just switched all our plans from a fish only tank to a full blown reef.
We've had a 55 FOWLR for some time and just bought a 135 gallon tank
<Good that you have some experience. Keep in mind you'll need more water
circulation, more lighting, and closer attention to water quality in your reef.>
The tank is 18 high 24 wide and 72 long. We need ideas on lighting for the tank.
Were planning only having some mushrooms, soft corals and anemones.
<I like to use metal halide lighting, even for soft coral tanks--simply a
personal preference. For this tank I would go with a low wattage, probably 175
watts, and a high temperature bulb, probably 20000K. Again, these are
personal
preferences. Other options are power compact or PC lighting, and T5 high output
fluorescent lighting. I leave the endless possibilities of lighting to you to
research. :D>
our stock will be a scopas tang, a coral beauty,2 clownfish, a convict tang and
maybe a magnificent Foxface. I don't know if these are reef safe or not?
<A nice mix of livestock. I suggest going with either ocellaris or percula
clowns, as they stay small and peaceful, readily pair up and spawn. The tangs
and Rabbitfish might not get along. The scopas in particular can be very
aggressive to other tangs. A more fitting choice might be a Ctenochaetus
species, such as the Kole or chevron tang. Much more sociable with other
tangs. The convict is rather peaceful as well, but consider removal of one or
two of these three fish to be a possibility. The tangs should be the last fish
added in any case.>
Is this a stocked tank or can I have some flasher wrasses or some gobies and
other smaller fish?
<You can probably add a couple smaller fish. If doing flashers (Paracheilinus
spp.) add them as the very first fish, and preferably in groups. They won't
acclimate well to an established tank full of boisterous fish.>
<Hope this helps! Matt.>
Reef Aquarium Questions 10/21/04
Hi Crew, First, great site, I have learned more on this site than any where
else. Second, my setup. I have a 125g main tank (72l x 18d x 22h). It is being
drilled to install two 1.5" bulkheads for drain to sump and two 1" bulkheads for
return to tank all in two corner overflows. The 1" return lines will be
connected to a 3/4" spray bar across the back of the tank with 4 or 5 "tee's" as
outlets. I plan on using a Mag drive 24 (2400g/h) as the return pump from the
sump. I am also having holes drilled for a closed loop system, three 1"
bulkheads on the back of the tank. One for feed to pump, the other two for
return to tank.
<all good>
I have a CSL Velocity T4 pump (1250 g/h) I plan on using for the closed loop. Is
this enough flow for a reef tank IYO?.
<yes... you are nicely over the 20X per hour turnover guide minimum>
I also have a 15g sump (converted wet/dry, no bio balls) and 30g tank I will be
using as a refugium. The refugium will have two 1" bulkheads to drain into the
sump. I will be placing some rubble and macro algae in the refugium for nutrient
export and production of pods.
<excellent... do consider using Chaetomorpha algae as a best/better species.
Available from fellow hobbyists, local clubs, some stores, inlandaquatics.com,
etc>
In the sump, I plan on placing some live rock, heaters and the calcium reactor
will drip here also (Knop-c). Currently have a CSL 4x96w PC light (this will be
upgraded later as money becomes available). I have not determined the contents
of the tank yet. Am currently reading "Natural Reef Aquarium" by John Tullock to
help figure this out. Will have a few (4-6 fish), some inverts and some easy
medium light polyps/corals. (any suggestions would be helpful). Now for the
questions:
1) I will be using a DSB. If I put a DSB in the refugium, is there any benefit
to also having one in the main display?. (The DSB's will be 5"+ deep)
<yes... if the coral and/or fish bioload is high enough, then the refugium bed
may not be large enough to handle it all (denitrification, etc). There is some
benefit here to another larger bed in the display>
2) I plan on placing the sand for the DSB's first, then live rock (un-cured).
<Yikes! NEVER cure live rock in the display with a sand or gravel bed...
pathogens and contamination can/will filter to the bed and remain. Always/only
cure live rock in a bare-bottomed tank with aggressive skimming and water
changes... preferably in a separate tank>
I know I need to cycle the tank, but how long do I wait to place the "cleaning
crew" and sand stirrers into the tanks?. Can this be done while cycling or do I
need to wait until the ammonia levels drop significantly?.
<you must wait till ammonia returns to zero for all livestock>
3) For future info, are the HQI Metal Halides (double ended?) as good as I've
been hearing?.(
<yes, truly outstanding in my opinion>
a 250w HQI puts out close to the same light as a 400w mogul) Any suggestions or
criticisms of this setup will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for all of your
time and expertise that you share so willingly and freely, Keith
<very fine overall... best of luck. Anthony>
New Reef Tank
Do you have any recommendations on books to assist in the planning and
setting up of a 75 gallon reef tank?
<Yes. If you are very new to the hobby, please look into Mike Paletta's books
(insert his name as author in Amazon.com or other book etailer site). If "ready
to go" (i.e. with sufficient/comfortable background in freshwater) I'd read
through John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums"... Once you have at least this
sort of exposure I would gather factual material from websites such as our
WetWebMedia.com and bulletin boards like Reefs.org, ReefCentral... make a list
of gear (tank, stand, lighting, filtration... AND livestock you'd like to
consider further) and investigate your options thoroughly before
purchasing/proceeding. You will be very glad you did this research as there is
considerable "dis"information, some of it quite popular. Bob Fenner>
Starting a Reef (10/9/04)
Dear WWM Crew, <Steve Allen tonight>
I am new to the marine side of the hobby but I have been into freshwater for
quite some time now (ever since I was a kid). I am thinking of setting up a reef
tank--some 100-120gal, <Fun. Bigger is better. How about 180 (72X24X24)--a
wonderful size.> mostly hard corals (SPS and some LPS), couple of clams, a
xenia/anthelia or Clavularia and some Ricordea; so for the last
couple of months I've been reading and planning, and then reading more and
re-planning (there is soooo much to learn even though you might think you'd be
familiar with most of it). <It's a lifelong learning process--good for the
brain.> I must say that your website has been a great source of knowledge and
I've spent many enjoyable hours reading your articles and FAQs. <Me too. All of
us learn from this. My pleasure to play a small part.>
This said, I have two sets of questions that I'll cover in different e-mails
since one has to deal with set-up and the other with livestock. First of, let me
say that I have a "more of nature, less of technology" attitude <Technophile
that I am, I prefer nature in this case too.> towards this project because I
believe that if we are to fully succeed in keeping live corals and tropical fish
(the way we somewhat have with freshwater) we should do it Mother Nature's way
not I-know-better-than-that way. <true, but since we certainly can never
re-create the ocean in a 100-200 gallon box, we do need to rely on some
technological assistance to succeed.> From what I figured we know a lot but
still so little that it's almost nothing. <Well, that's true about all science.>
My first question has to do with sump/refugiums and skimmers. I read about the
macroalgae mud filters and I read about the DSB refugiums and they both seem to
have their way of doing things so I decided to use them both (doesn't look like
you can go wrong with that). I have decided that I need a refugium mostly for
1)DSB denitrification, 2)food culturing (mostly
Gracilaria for herbivores and Mysis for carnivores/omnivores). <It can be a bit
difficult to grow Gracilaria in a small refugium with a DSB. This is due to it's
need for a lot of circulation.> The mud filter is going to be with Chaetomorpha
<Great stuff. Mine thrives.> mainly for nutrient export and elements
replenishing (through the EcoSystem Miracle Mud or similar product). What should
the photoperiod be on those and what lighting should I use? I figured 24/7 on
the Chaeto mud filter, and 10-12h on dark hours of the main tank for
the refugium. <Chaeto does not need 24/7 either. Only Caulerpa does. Compact
fluorescents work nicely for this purpose, but some folks do just fine with
regular fluorescent. There is a lot of info about this on the site and on our
chat forum. Also, do consider purchasing Bob & Anthony's wonderful "Reef
Invertebrates" book, which contains 100 pages about DSBs, refugiums and
macroalgae.>
Second, I wanted both the mud filter and the refugium to receive equal amounts
of nutrients from the main tank so I thought about placing them as side-by side
(lengthwise) chambers in the sump. The unprocessed water is going to come from
the main tank into a protein skimmer/Ca reactor chamber <be sure to have
mechanical filtration prior to the Ca reactor to prevent clogging. If you're
having water flow down into a partitioned area that this sits in, a simple floss
bag will work.> then flow through the middle into the side-by-side mud filter
and refugium chambers and then overflow into a mixing chamber with a pump
returning the
water into the main tank. Is this reasonable enough or do you see potential
drawbacks? <The sump will have to be quite large to accommodate all of this. The
relative advantages of mud over sugar-fine sand are not a settled issue. I'm not
convinced that one needs both. Have you heard of CPR Aquatic's AquaFuge HOT
refugium. I grow my Chaeto in one of these. One can have mud in there too. It
will also add a little more circulation. Then the sump could have just the DSB
and hopefully some Gracilaria.>
I figured that since I'm going to rely mostly on natural nutrient export I do
not need aggressive skimming. <Most people still rely on a quality skimmer.> And
yes, I am convinced that AquaC/EuroReef/Tunze are all great brands and all worth
the money but do I really need something as sophisticated and powerful given
that I do not want to overskim my system <To my knowledge, this concept is
theoretical only, with no real evidence backing it up.>, I just need something
to remove excess DOM like the ocean does and then leave the rest to the natural
filters. I guess what I really need is a moderately effective, easy-to-clean,
not so expensive protein skimmer. I was looking at the Nautilus TE, the
Turboflotor, the Red
Sea Berlin skimmers and some other options. Can you recommend any of those or
any other brand to serve my purpose? <each of these have their advocates. Do
some more research online Start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm >
As for the Ca reactor, I have decided on a DIY since most stuff on the market is
just way too expensive for what that device truly is (I wish someone would make
the ultimate Ca reactor, put a $100-150 price tag on it <Dream on. Perhaps that
someone could be you?>, kill all competition, make all aquarists happy and the
world a better place:-)). I'm thinking a 2-chamber reactor. Should there be a
difference in the media used since the second chamber is going to be used mainly
to buff up pH and then somewhat to add to alkalinity and Ca. <Check out
OzReef.org
and the DIY forum on our chat forum for more help with this.> The macro-algae
are going to deal with the rest of the CO2 I presume and restore pH balance.
I am also thinking should the effluent go through the skimmer for the benefit of
it removing some CO2 as suggested by some or isn't it better to have the
purified water from the skimmer go to the Ca reactor thus making sure that waste
products don't clog the reactor <mechanical filtration will prevent this.> and
also make it easier to clean? Also there is a pump needed for the skimmer/ one
for the reactor/ 2 for main tank-sump water flow. Isn't it possible to just use
one powerful pump (and one for the return) and then direct the needed flow
towards each of those using valves, plumbing, etc. or is it too much to ask for
:-)? < Balancing all this flow gets complex. You only need one pump to lead from
the final chamber to the tank. I recommend drilling the sump and using an
external pump. I highly recommend and Iwaki with the better Japanese motor.
Costly, but will provide years of trouble-free service well worth the initial
investment. For the skimmer & reactor, I'm a fan of Sedra an Super MagDrive
submersibles.>
Lighting of course comes to mind and for the system I have decided on it seems
that most people agree on metal halides. Still there is this plethora of options
that feels like worth a tome in its own. I'll probably go DIY with this as well
mainly because of aesthetics (I don't come even close to liking most fixtures
and cannot imagine how they're going to fit with the rest of the interior).
Anyway, I am looking at 2x175w 10k metal-halides plus
some VHOs, T5s, PCs, HOs, actinics or whatever else there is to supplement them.
<do read more on WWM, www.reefkeeping.com & www.advancedaquarist.com about
options.>I am also going to include moonlight. <Questionable benefit, nice
aesthetics.> Here I am thinking of trying to
duplicate nature as best as I can and this to me is more providing the needed
variability than providing the constant intense lighting. I read that dimmers
are not recommended for metal halides because they wear them off an awful lot.
What is your opinion on this? <I don't like dimmers for anything, to be honest
with you. I'd rather selectively turn on/off individual/groups of bulbs.> If
true then I can just arrange timers to turn the different lights on and off in
cycles simulating passing clouds and storms and the likes. <bingo> Do you think
that this would be better or should I stick with the regular undisrupted moon
lights-actinics-MHs-actinics-ML pattern, provided that the variations I am
talking about would still meet the SPS/clams needs? <there are so many viable
approaches here. Study more at the recommended sites and other sources. Take
time, be patient. Pick that which makes the most sense to you, and be prepared
to watch your electric meter spin like a whirling dervish.> I am looking at
about 400-500w total for my size system (100-120g) with a water depth of no more
than 25'' and the SPS/clams placed in the top 10-15'' of water.
Last (still hanging in there?:-)) I have a question about live rock. Some
recommend Fiji, some Tonga, some a combination of the two, some other kinds. <I
have a mix--gives a great variety of life.> I read Bob's article for Walt Smith
and I recollect that Fiji premium rock
is good more because of the way it's managed (collecting, handling, pre-curing)
than because it's very porous. As for the deepwater Tonga, I've read that it's
more porous and more diverse but then it's uncured and so it's more likely to
introduce unwanted pests. <Curing does not prevent pests, it removes dead stuff.
You can get these from any live rock, but the risk is exaggerated, IMO. Unless
you by pre-cured (expensive!) rock straight out of an LFS tank and put it
straight into yours, you will need to re-cure--read the FAQs.> Of course, I do
not expect (as with anything) that there is a right and wrong here but what is
your opinion on the matter? <I like a mix. I bought some "Lalo" from Drs. Foster
& Smith that continues to yield pleasant surprises after an entire year has
passed.> Is there a very porous, diverse and well managed live rock out there or
is it again too much to ask for? <I have been very satisfied with mine. Do look
at Florida cultured LR as an option too.> I've also read somewhere (I don't
remember where anymore) that if you dip live rock in high-salinity sea water the
crustaceans/worms and the likes are going to vacate it and then
you can just go through all the creatures and take what you want and dispose
what you don't. Is this true/ do you recommend it as part of the curing process?
<not a bad idea. I did not do this myself, but many folks have found it
helpful.>
That was a long one... Thank you sooo much and again keep up the good! Ivan B.
<I hope this was helpful. I strongly recommend the "Reef Invertebrates" book.
Consider also the excellent "Reef Secrets" by Nielsen & Fosså.>
- Setting up a 120 Reef -
Greetings Crew
I'm in the process of setting up a 120 gal tank and have a series of related
stocking questions. Hardware should be something along the lines of:
Overflow split into two 29 gal tanks. One will be a refugium with a DSB, LR and
macroalgae (suggestions here? Preferably something non-floating). <Many choices,
all reviewed on Wet Web Media.> The second tank will hold an Aqua-C EV180 with
ozone, then through carbon into a chamber with two heaters and then into a
collection area. The refugium will return to this collection area and then be
shot back into the display tank via an Iwaki MD30RLXT (Thinking about hooking up
a SCWD into the return and directing it to two nozzles. thoughts?). <Sounds good
to me.> Additional current in the display via Tunze Turbelle and closed loop or
manifold. Lighting will be two 250w MH, either 10K, 12K or 20K.haven't decided
yet.
I'm looking at mostly softies at this point, but want the flexibility to go in
other directions later in life without completely re-tooling the tank.
My limiting factor fish-wise is a Mandarin (S. splendens). Along with that
little guy, I'd like to keep a dwarf flame angel, a white cheeked tang, a pair
of clowns (ocellaris or perc) and some other small something-or-other. Several
folks have suggested cardinals, but I have a strong preference against those
particular critters. I'd like to be able to keep a triad or so of firefish, but
wonder if they might out-compete the mandarin. <Is possible.> My hope would be
that there'd be enough food to sustain both given the size of the display, the
refugium (to be seeded with pods and the like), and about 6 months of critter
growing time before any swimming fish are introduced. <Good plan.>
Now the questions:
1) Think the group of firefish is feasible? <Is feasible, but as you mentioned
will be competition for food for the Mandarin.> If not, do you have any
non-cardinal suggestions? <Well... if color is not a huge issue, why not go for
some fish that aren't exactly pretty but very fun to watch, Barnacle Blennies.>
2) If the firefish would work, are the various species of firefish compatible
together in this size space? <They often pair up... would get two of one
species, and if I were in your situation I'd get the ones your wife likes.> (My
wife likes the purples ones, I prefer the white/orange ones)
3) Given this list of fish, in what order would you stock? <If you manage to
wait the full six months, and have a good quantity of live rock, you should be
able to stock this list in any order with one proviso... you should wait as long
as possible for the Mandarin, the longer the better.>
Thanks in advance for your guidance. The above plan owes quite a bit to the
trust of dedicated folks associated with your site.
Sam
Anacortes, Washington
<Cheers, J -- >
Filtration for a 30 gal
Hello - I purchased an Oceanic Systems 30 gal cube aquarium, which I am
going
to make into a reef tank w/ live rock, some soft corals, six/seven fish, and
maybe clam later on. << Maybe not that many fish, depending on what you buy. >>
I have a Sea Star prism pendant w/ (1) 175 watt metal
halide, (2) 32 watt blue actinics, and (1) LED blue moon light. I purchased the
CPR Cyclone bio-filter system (CY192) and a continuous siphon overflow box
(CS50) because I want to keep the water moving and clean/clear as possible. I
would like to know your opinion on using this combo filter/protein skimmer
system for my reef set-up, and your advice for alternative system if you don't
think this is the best set-up. << That sounds great. However, the real question
and best item for filtration is the amount of live rock. I'd be sure to have
much live rock and deep sand in that system. >>
Thank you,
Karen
<< Blundell >>
Beginner setup questions
Hi...I am planning to setup a reef aquarium soon, some of my friends said
it's a good start as an aquarist. But there are some of my friends (more than the
ones that agree) told me to stay away from setting up a reef aquarium. << Crazy
friends, find new friends. Just kidding, I'm sure they are just hesitant
because it can be challenging to the unprepared individual. >> They said the
percentage of a successful reef aquarium setup is very low. << I wouldn't say it
is very low. I'd say it is very, very low. >> I am living in
Malaysia (near the
equator), the weather around here is hot almost all year round. << Wow, do I
wish I lived there. Just call me jealous. >> I observed my freshwater aquarium
and the temperature is around 30 - 32 degree centigrade, sometimes 33. I am not
looking forward in using a chiller. So, what should I do & what are the
important things that I should be aware of (temperature, minerals, water quality,
supplements to use)...? << I would stay clear of supplements for a long
time. I'd worry about live rock, filtration, lighting, things like that. I'm
not sure what you have available there (maybe everything we have here, maybe
nothing we have here). Lighting is the big question, it will make a difference
in what you can keep and what temperature you will have. >>
If I am able to setup a reef aquarium, I plan to keep 1 or 2 anemone and some
corals. What kind of anemones and corals should I look for as a beginner (if
possible anemones & corals that does not need very cold temperature.) << Xenia,
mushrooms, anthelia, Sarcophyton. >> Can I add in fish in the reef aquarium...?
<< Absolutely. If you ask me the purpose of a reef tank is to make a nice home
for the fish. (but don't tell Calfo I said that) >> If can, how many can I keep
in a reef aquarium (I am planning to use a 48in. X 18in. X 18in. aquarium) <<
Hmm, like 5 or 6 medium sized (3 inch) fish should be fine. >> and what are the
fish that are safe to keep with the presence of anemones and corals...?? <<
Just about all damsels (Pomacentrids) and gobies or blennies. Best advice I can
give is to see other reef tanks first. Really, don't jump into this. And read
some books, it will really help for where you are at. And finally.... live rock
is the key to reef tanks. Make sure you invest in 20 kilograms of live rock. >>
Thanks...
<< Blundell >>
- Reef Filtration -
I have a question I am going to buy a 155 gal all glass aquarium they are telling me in the store
to use Caulerpa and miracle mud with a skimmer I want to have a mini reef with some anemones and sponges and soft corals, can I use a wet dry they are telling me no but what do you
recommend. <Think the store is steering you in the right direction.> In the sump they are adding a light for the
Caulerpa but I have no idea in this, I had a 75 gallon tank with live rock but it had a leakage and
I lost it so now I am between a 72 or this 155 what do you
recommend. <The larger the better if affording all the attendant accessories is not a problem.> I had ordered for my previous tank a fixture 4 foot long with 2 175
MH 10 k Ushios and 2 40 watt actinics they say if I raise it it could be used
on top of the 155 gal I receive this lights tomorrow and don't wan t to lose them what can
I do? <They are correct - it could be suspended from the ceiling and work just fine.> Can
I use a wet dry filter
with a skimmer and only that for a reef? <Wet/dry filters and reef tanks are not good combinations.>
thank you very much Alejandro
<Cheers, J -- >
Basic set up for a 75 gal
Please help me get a jump-start on my fresh start reef system. I've been a
marine aquarist (sp?) for about 15 years with moderate success with mostly
fish-only systems. That is the root of my experience and confusion while
trying to enter the reef system area. The teaming life of a reef is
unbelievable and I want to enjoy this as a family with my kids.
First the basic of my system. No quick way to explain this so I will flood
you with details. I have a 75 US gallon Oceanic tank with a single corner
sump, one power head and a heater in the tank. The glass sump bottom is
drilled for my wet/dry (I've read that this is a bad word now) system in my
basement. I hard piped in the wet/dry system in the basement below my tank.
The filter is a nice yet smallish acrylic Sea Clear system. It starts with
simple prefilter floss for the intake, with bio-balls under for the wet/dry
first tier area and than natural coral chunks in the submerged second tier.
Under & over the little wall, I have another heater and my protein skimmer.
The skimmer is (was at the time) a high quality Oceanic skimmer that was
supposed to equal a 12+ ft tall conventional skimmer (the skimmer is
currently off for set-up). A Quiet one pump attaches here and sends
everything back into the tank. My UV system has been removed and needs to be
replaced (if you think it's needed).
<< I wouldn't use it. >>
My tank has been cycled for about 5-7 weeks. Tank content. I have a crushed
coral bed with varying depths, 1 to 4 inches. Lots of old fashion real dead
coral from years ago (I would never buy anymore after becoming educated).
Live inhabitants currently: 4 small Percula clowns, 1 bar goby, one small
green crab and 1 red shrimp.
I also have a couple of hundred pound worth of good base rock that has been
in dry storage for several years, so it certainly is not live. A newer
canister filter system is also available but not being used except when
needed for emergencies.
Where do I go from here? What can I keep and what must go? I think my live
stock is pretty basic system for a reef system, but my filter is the big
question. << You answered it. Filtration, so my advise or question is "where is
the live rock". I'd say you need about 50 pounds of it in that tank, and I'd
let that rock sit in there for months before adding those fish. A little late
now, but I'd still be adding live rock. That will be the whole key to your
filtration. >> I've read lots of FAQ and have an OK base knowledge. My basement
location for the filter system sounds like a great idea with plenty of room
for improvement. << That is an awesome way to go. >>
Some of my thoughts:
1. Can I convert my wet/dry into a refugium type filter system or must it be
eliminated? << Very easy to convert, people do it all the time. >>
2. Should I go ahead and place my old base rock in the tank or must I cure
this in another tank? I currently do not have a QT tank but will be setting
one up soon, a topic for another time. << If it is dry, you can just throw it
in. >>
3. I need a water-aging tank or trash can and pump attached to the system
for water changes. << That would be convenient, but not necessary. >>
4. I've considered using a spare 55 US gallon tank as a secondary sump to
increase water volume to 130 US gallons and improve overall water quality
stability. Perhaps this could even be my QT tank if plumbed right to be shut
off from the remaining system? << Yes it could be, but not for medicating, only
for slow acclimation. Otherwise if you want to medicate then you would need a
separate tank. >>
Sorry about my ramble, but I figured more info is better than less. Please
help me.
<< Get the live rock and live sand growing for now. You may want to analyze
your lighting system as that will determine what you can have in this tank in the
future. >>
<< Blundell >>
Rock & Sand Questions (9/8/04)
Hi Wet Web Gods! <Mere Mortal Steve Allen at your service.>
I am still in the process of building this 180 gal. reef tank of mine and I am
getting close to getting things started. <cool> I have several questions
regarding the curing of live rocks and the seeding of sand. My plan for this
system is to have a 35 gal. upstream refugium (24"x28") with a deep layer of
sand 5" sand and Gracilaria growing for nitrate export. <Do learn of the care
requirements of this macroalgae--it can be difficult to grow
due to high flow requirements. Take a look at Chaetomorpha too.> The
surface of the main display is 49"x30" minus 2 corner overflow. <Interesting
shape--a "standard" 180 is 72x24.> It was suggested to me to put a thin layer
(1") of sand in the main display in conjunction with a deep layer 5-6" external
refugium. <This is for aesthetics. Personally, I don't like the look of a
bare-bottom tank.> If the best size for a refugium is 40% of main display's
water volume <more is better>, this would mean a refugium of 72 gal. Since I
only have a 35 gal. refugium it appears that I need to expand somehow. <Any is
better than none.> Or it is the foot print that matters? <Volume is important:
"The solution to pollution is dilution."> Would it be advantageous to create a
DSB in the main display as well? <Yes, if the stocking plan can accommodate
this.> Would the buffering capabilities increase or improve? <Yes> Since I will
use aragonite as media will this combination produce too much calcium? <No. The
calcium in the aragonite comes out slowly based on pH, alkalinity and Ca
concentration in the water, among other factors.> Is there such a thing? <Yes,
created when adding too much supplement. Can mess up alkalinity and cause
precipitates in the tank.> I purchased a calcium reactor for this system. Will
it still be useful considering the amount of aragonite dissolved? <I'd say this
expensive piece of equipment is only necessary in reef tanks with a number of
high calcium-consuming corals. Most tanks can get by with the sand bed, rock,
and some supplementation with two-part liquids or Kalkwasser, not to mention
regular water changes. Lots of info on WWM, elsewhere.> I plan on suspending all
the live rocks above the sand anyway. Will the sand in both tanks need to get
stirred and/or vacuum? <Stirring by appropriate creatures such as Nassarius
snails and burrowing shrimps or fishes is plenty. For the 1" bed, I'd vacuum.>
Can vacuuming kill the micro-fauna? <It will certainly remove a portion. One
should not be too aggressive. Search FAQs for details.>
As for rock work I'm going to go with uncured Fiji Live Rock. Does it come
directly from the source via airplane? <No. There are middlemen involved.> I
want to cure the rock in a separate vessel so I can build the structure in the
display without being rushed. Should I still look for Mantis Shrimp or that has
been taken care of? <Mantis shrimp are not all that common in Pacific LR, but
can usually be detected and extracted during the curing/quarantine process. More
info on this in curing and mantis FAQs> What would a safe photo-period be to
preserve the Coralline Algae? <Hmm. I cured mine in Rubbermaid containers in the
garage (stinky stuff--not nice in the house) with only a window for light and
the coralline came through just fine. Read the curing articles/FAQs.> Can I seed
sterile aragonite sand simultaneously with each batch of Live Rocks. Or is
there a better way? <I would not recommend sand in the curing vessel because you
will need to do a lot of water changes and detritus-vacuuming. Better to put the
sand in the tank and let the cured LR seed it. Another option would be to add
Bio-Spira Marine to the tank with sand in it while waiting for the LR to cure.
Great product, but not cheap.> And finally should I have different grain size in
the main display than the refugium for the sake of variety of microfauna? <This
can be useful to promote variety.>
Thanks folks, Stephan Gaudreau <You're welcome. Hope this helps. BTW, I think
you would find Bob Fenner & Anthony Calfo's book "Reef Invertebrates" a prudent
investment for its outstanding 100 pages of info on DSBs, refugiums and
macroalgae (in addition to the valuable info on all sorts of non-Cnidarian
inverts. It is available at Amazon.>
Reef Lighting 8/17/04
thank you for replying my last message so quickly I am really confused and don't
know what to do you have helped me a lot with your advice and the FAQS but I
want to have good light in my 75 gallon tank its 18 or 21 inches deep I want to
have featherdusters, anemones,
<please reconsider the anemones... keep none if you want corals in this tank and
if not, still keep only one species of anemone. They really do need species
tanks>
and some other clams or I don't really know yet will 4 fluorescent of 40 watts
(2actinic and 2 daylight) and a 175 watt MH do the job?
<the fluorescents give little help here on a tank so deep... and the one MH is
modest for a 4 foot long tank. This lighting scheme is "low" by most any
standard>
with a custom made canopy plus 2 fans or another choice is a 2 40 watt actinic
and 2 175 watt MH which is the best choice for my LR and future inverts and me.
<yes... much better!>
Please help me I want to do a good spend on my lights not just buy to have
lights.
<pick 10K Ushios lamps (or Aqualines) and you will be quite happy. XMs are good
too>
In your last mail you told me to get rid of my Humu Humu trigger if I wanted the
anemones and shrimp he is about 3 inches will he get used to them?
<he is not reef safe at all and must be removed to be sure>
I really like this fish and wouldn't want to get rid of him.
<most triggers will kill desirable reef inverts like shrimp, clams, etc>
Also what is a good blue fish for my tank?
<I have no idea what to recommend without knowing the other fishes in your tank.
There are no doubt some handsome damsels (Chromis if you need peaceful) to be
found in blue colors>
Well thank you very much hope to hear from you soon
<best of luck, Anthony>
Re: 75 Gallon: New Reef Tank
Thank You for reply so fast, last night I stayed up reading the light FAQs
on your web, I decided to add 2 175 watt MH and 2 40 watt actinic
fluorescents. do you think that I should have 2 40 watt actinic and 2 40
watt fluorescents plus the 2 MH or the other choice above? All your advices
are helping me a lot narrowing down my choices, I really want to get good
things for my tank but buying the correct things, doing some research first,
my main worry now are the lights, so do you think 2 175 MH plus 2 actinic 40
watt fluorescents would do for my 75 gallon tank and I want to add some
anemones, polyps and start from there will this be enough? My trigger is
about 3" will he adapt to this environment I really don't want to get rid of
him? my live rock seems to be dying should it be because insufficient light?
I want a blue fish for my tank what would be a good choice? Well thank you
very much hope to hear soon from you.
<<Hey Alejandro; Good job on doing some reading-up! It will help you a lot if
you can continue, especially about water chemistry issues, such as testing for
calcium, alkalinity, pH, etc. and understanding (to the best that any of us
can...) what the test results mean, how they affect each other or work
hand-in-hand, and how to correct them when they are off. These are things you
need to know in order to succeed with your tank and its inhabitants. For
example, right now you are asking me about your live rock dying...this could be
due to many things, lighting or water parameters, but I have no idea unless you
provide me with more information, such as what your calcium levels are,
alkalinity, pH, salinity, how often you do water changes, etc. In order for
anyone here to help you, you will need to learn to add this info each time you
have a specific question. Basically, it all revolves around water chemistry.
Therefore, you really need to read up on this before attacking lighting issues,
or even fish compatibility issues. You can't keep fish or corals alive if your
water parameters are off. Water chemistry comes first, as it is essential for
you to understand the basics of it before you will be able to try to balance
your tank. Keeping a reef tank is all about balance, what you need to add, what
you need to lower via water changes, and you must pay attention to your water
parameters constantly. Some people test their water weekly, some daily, many of
us have electronic monitors for the basics, such as salinity, temperature, pH,
etc. You can glance at these monitors on a daily basis and note the numbers...if
anything is off, you need to take immediate steps to correct whatever it is. I
am not saying you need expensive monitors, not at all, I am merely trying to
show you that you need to test your water quite regularly to be sure nothing is
too far off. Things like pH should be stable in the 8.2 or 8.3 range during the
day, along with temperature and salinity. Alkalinity can fluctuate now and then,
so it should be tested, too, along with calcium and magnesium. These are the
basics for any reef tank owner to know. There are others, but you can safely
start with these test kits and do fine until your experience progresses.
Your triggerfish is not a reef-safe animal. As he grows he may become quite
aggressive. He will eat any shrimp you add, and trust me, you don't want to pay
for a fancy shrimp just to see him disappear into your triggers mouth...same
with smaller fish, such as your royal Gramma. Snack food for triggers. He may
also snack on other inverts, like brittle starfish, snails, crabs, whatever is
lying around on your reef that he feels like "tasting", etc. I know you want to
keep him, but he will destroy your reef, in time. For a "blue fish" there are
many to choose from. See what comes available at your local store, and ask them
for recommendations.
I will also mention again that your lighting is up to you. Either way will work,
the problem with adding too much light is that you are a beginner, and I would
not recommend stony corals to you until you have more experience. However, if
you are determined, there are some stonies that are easier to keep than others,
like frogspawn. A bit of research should help you decide which species you think
you can keep. You can keep the lower-light-requiring softies at lower levels in
the tank. You can arrange your rockwork and set the soft corals beneath
overhangs until they adjust to the light. Again, read up on light-shock so you
can understand this.
And again, please do not attempt to keep corals and anemones in the same tank,
for two reasons: one is that anemones MOVE around the tank in order to find
themselves a favorite place, and unless your water parameters are excellent,
they will trample all over your other corals, and in the process either sting
them silly or annoy them greatly. Then they might simply decide they are
unhappy, and crawl into a crevice where you can't see them, and die...causing
high ammonia levels that will create major problems for your other livestock.
Anemones are carnivores, so be prepared to target feed them every few days,
unless you want your water quality to deteriorate if they don't manage to find
the food you toss in at the surface. So the second reason is that water quality
will deteriorate if you need to feed a bunch of carnivores on a regular basis.
Do you see what I mean? So I guess if I were you, I would go with the double
metal halides, and two 40 watt actinics. Other members of our team here might be
able to give you explanations for each specific lighting set-up, but I have
found this simple combination to be workable with many species of "beginner"
corals...if you can call them that. I think it will be quite a while before you
will need to upgrade your lighting, and by that point, you will be experienced
enough to be wanting a much larger tank, anyways :P -Gwen>>
Mini Reef PC lighting choices - 8/11/04
Hi Crew,
I am in the process of setting up a 15 gallon mini / micro / nano / pico reef
tank (choose your buzzword here). I already have a 125, but you can never have
enough toys. <Too true> Anyhow, I am looking at different lighting options and
would like your opinion. The tank is a 15 gallon high with the same footprint
as a 10 gallon. I have a 5 inch sand bed and 15lbs of new live rock cycling
away in it now. That leaves me with about 10 gallons and 12 inches of depth. I
am surprised at the number of lighting options available for such a small tank.
<Well, this all depends on what you plan to place inside you mini reef> I plan
on using power compacts. <OK> I want to make sure I have enough but not too much
light. <What is this justification based on. Depends on the animals and their
environmental distribution.> Here are the 20 inch lighting options that I
found:
28W single bulb
36W single bulb
40W single bulb
2 x 36W double bulb <OK choice for budget conscious>
2 x 40W double bulb <Good choice>
96W single bulb <Good choice>
Double bulbs are nice, since one actinics and daylights can be controlled
separately. Is this really important? <Not really. As a matter of fact you
don't really even need actinic lighting. This is for the human aesthetic> I
don't plan on any SPS corals or clams. <Then what animals do you plan?> How
much and how many? <Light? I like the 2x40. Seems to be great for small
aquariums gives you some options for bulb types as well. For example - 1 bulb at
10k and another at 20k or the standard 10k and the Actinic. You get the idea.
Otherwise the 96w is a fine choice as well I use the 2x40s and have various fish
and soft corals. All seem to adjust and grow well with good color. The
difference between the three I remarked on above will come down to inhabitant
choices, and funds available.> I can't decide. Any opinion on this? <You got
it. You will have to make the decision from here. I gave you the knowledge and
opinion, you must now use the power to your advantage to make the decision that
best fits your needs.>
By the way, I upgraded the skimmer on my 125G to an AquaC EV180 (per your
recommendations) and it kicks butt. <You KNOW!!!> Lots of foul scum coming out
of that one. <Great product. Have fun. ~Paul>
Thanks again,
Larry
Getting Back Into The Hobby- And Staying In!
Hello,
<Hi! Scott F. at your service!>
Writing to you about my 2 year old 46 gallon bow front tank. It currently is
running a Aquaclear Pro 75 wet/dry filter with a large mag return pump not sure
of the rating and a Aqua C Remora skimmer. 3 good size powerheads circulating
the water along with Coral Life PC lighting:1 50/50 strip 96 watts, 1 actinic blue
strip 96 watts and 1 10,000k strip. There is about 35 lbs of live rock in it
along with a mixture of crushed coral and live sand totaling about 3-4 inches
deep. It had been a decent reef system for sometime, till most of my coral and
coralline died and a lack of interest grew due to lack of funds at that time for
the upkeep.
<That will do the trick!>
Let's just say, as the subject says, that I have renewed my interest in my tank
and would like to get it back to all its glory.
<Cool!>
Here is what I have done so far to get it back to that. I would just like you to
comment on what I have done and if there is something I am sure I have
overlooked.
<Sure>
Ironically, as the rock and coral died I am happy to report that all my fish and
some strong coral have survived and are doing well:
1 Sailfin Tang
1 Hippo Tang
2 Yellow Tailed Damsels
2 Clarkii Clowns
1 Hawkfish
1 Lyretail Wrasse (was told was reef safe yeah right!)
1 Cup Coral
and some brown polyps.
2 red brittle stars
<Well- not to pick on you- but you asked for an opinion. I really think that you
have too much life in this sized tank. Do be sure to reduce the population to a
more manageable level for long-term success. The Sailfin can reach almost 15
inches long- it simply needs more room, and the Hippos is not far behind!>
About two weeks ago, as I was really looking at my tank, I noticed a
brown/reddish film on all the rocks. As I knew this is algae and can't be good.
I then totally rearranged the rockwork so that all the algae was out of the
light. I then measured the phosphate level and was off the charts at 10 ppm!!!
<Yep! Light plus nutrients equals algae bloom!>
So I changed 50% of the water and I can't remember the last time I did that
(shame on me).
<Hey- at least you recognized that!>
I used natural sea water this time because the tap water is high in phosphate,
and I can't afford an R/O unit and the level went down to 2ppm. The natural sea
water suggests 25% change once a month and I bought enough for 3 months.
<You might want to look into the long-term cost of this idea. In the long run,
the initially higher investment in an RO/DI unit might save you $$ over time>
To combat the rest of the known phosphate I am using Polyfilter and Detox 2 (a
form of carbon) in the wet/dry. Hopefully this works. As you have stated that
wet/dry's are quote "nitrate factories", I want you to know that most of the
time the reading is low.
<Good...Keep in mind that there are other factors that contribute to nitrate in
aquariums, such as your source water quality, etc.>
I have started testing the water again and the levels are:
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 2.5 to 5 max
ph 8.2
alk normal to high (don't have a numbered test)
phosphate 2
<Still higher than you'd want for the long term>
calcium 600 (yikes)
<Wow! Do recheck this...>
I currently have ordered a strontium, magnesium, carbonate (should be used for
alk I take it), borate, along with Iodine and Iodide tests. Do I need an Oxygen
test and silica test? got mixed thoughts on those.
<I would not personally go crazy with Strontium and Iodine test kits. If you're
doing regular water changes with a good quality salt mix, you really don't need
to concern your self with some of those levels. You'll be replenishing them
regularly with this practice. Do consider silicate, however- as it is a major
contributor to some nuisance algae problems.>
What levels should the strontium, magnesium, carbonate be?
<Do consult a good book on marine water chemistry. Again- I wouldn't go crazy
worrying about these levels...>
After reading about the calcium levels I have to get it down, how do I do that
other than just not dosing the tank?
<That's the best way in the short run!>
I have read about the snowstorm affect from too much calcium.
With all the supplements on the market I am most confused as to what I need to
use.
<Less than you might think>
I currently use most Kent products:
Micro-Vert
Coral Accell
Coral Vite
Marine-Cc
Seachem Reef Builder
trace elements
strontium
Tropic Marin magnesium
Tropic Marin Calcium (have discontinued due to high reading)
Iodine and iodide
even use x-garlic on the frozen foods
I ordered some supplement that helps regrow the coralline algae.
<Wow! You are keeping the supplement manufacturers in business! The adage about
"If you're going to use something- test for it" may not be totally applicable
here...You plan on testing for lots of stuff...My real thought is to STOP adding
stuff! Ask yourself why you need to supplement these things? If your salt mix is
of good quality, and if you are making regular water changes- do you really need
to add all of this stuff? Things like "trace elements" and "vitamins" are vague,
and may simply contribute to nuisance algae growth...Try taking a break from
additives for a while. Put the money into saving for an RO/DI unit and a good
book on water chemistry. Better in the long run!>
I think I might be overdoing it but I just want to get the tank healthy again.
That's why I ordered all the tests which are most Reef Status brand.
<Nothing wrong with testing, but I think that you're driving yourself crazy, and
making things more complicated than they need to be here...Just slow down and do
it the simple way. If testing (for BASIC stuff, like calcium) indicates the need
to add more, then do so. But don't get yourself back on this crazy treadmill
that so many people get on to- it just leads to empty pockets and empty
aquariums!>
When you do add another coral does Lugol's Solution really help with the
acclimation process?
<It has some antiseptic properties, but can be dangerous to some corals...>
Is there anything else I should use or drop out from that list above?
<See my rant above!>
One more thing, the lights I have are a few years old should they be replaced
when I do get the new corals?
<I'd replace bulbs every 6 months to a year>
I am sorry that this is so long and I hope to hear back from you.
Thanks so much
Jim Stephen
<My pleasure, Jim! Keep it simple! Regards, Scott F.>
Reef Questions
I just bought an already established 100 gallon reef tank and am setting it
back up. The live rock had been placed directly on the sand with no ill effect
but I have different sand (I didn't like the darkness of the old sand) and don't
know if I should place the rock on the bottom of the tank and put the sand
around it, place the sand in the tank and the rock on top, or to place the rock
on PVC pipe so it is elevated. What do you think I should do? <You can either
place the rock on an egg crate mesh, or clear the sand away from where the rock
touches the tank bottom> I have had bad experiences with decay of the rock and
sand when set directly on top of each other. I plan to have 1" of sand or less
because a DSB would take up to much space (it is only about 20" tall). Is this
what you would do or would you do a DSB? <That sounds fine, but go with only
about 1\2" of sand unless you're going to be keeping burrowing animals. I would
advise a refugium, possibly with a DSB there> Also, would a UV sterilizer be a
good investment or an unnecessary expense? <In my opinion not needed on a reef
tank, but useful on a quarantine tank> Thanks, Andy <Anytime. M. Maddox>
Patience is a Virtue (Establishing a New System)
Hello WWM crew!
<Hi there, Scott F. here with you tonight.>
I need your expert advice.
<Oh boy, that's added pressure...hah! hah!>
I'll be setting up a 90-gallon reef tank in the next 2 weeks, and I'm trying to
decide how I should let it run during the first month or so. The tank will have
about 150 lbs. of live rock and just a sprinkling of sand on the bottom (no
DSB). The lighting will consist of 4 x T-5's (65 watts each I believe) with
reflectors and 2 x 150W MH HQI ice cap pendants (6500 K). All lights will be
suspended about a foot above the tank.
<Depending on what you are keeping, you may want to pull those pendants a bit
closer to the water--say 6"-8".>
The tank will be covered only by egg crate. There will also be a 30
gallon sump, a Deltec 1250 protein skimmer, a Deltec calcium reactor and a
Deltec chiller. No refugium. I eventually plan to keep mostly SPS corals. FWIW,
I was skeptical about the wattage of my lights since I plan to keep primarily
SPS, but I've been assured by many people with years of experience that the
lights I'm buying burn extremely bright (i.e., that it's not all about the
wattage), and that they will be more than sufficient (feel free to disagree).
<I do agree. I personally use a combination of 150 and 250 Watt
HQI pendants on my reef tank which is 20" high and get very good growth of
SPS corals.>
My question is whether I should run the tank during the first month (or longer)
without any lights (and without any livestock added other than what comes on the
live rock), or whether I should run the lights for the normal 12 hours a day. I
believe I read in Eric Borneman's "Aquarium Corals" book that he
recommends running the tank (presumably with the lights on) for a couple of
months or more without adding any livestock to see what sort of interesting
algae, etc. grow on the live rock. I have also read (I believe in Sprung and
Delbeek's "The Reef Aquarium Vol. I") that if you run the tank for a
month or so without running the lights, you won't encounter nuisance algae, and
the denitrifying bacteria will actually benefit from the lack of light. I'm not
sure which approach is better, and I'm interested in hearing your opinion.
<I agree with this approach. However, you will still encounter
nuisance algae with a new tank start up because of abundant nutrients and
immature nutrient export processes, AND light. Light itself will not
cause nuisance algae. On the other hand, leaving a tank unstocked for
some time will help foster great diversity of life from the live rock and sand. If
you're patient enough to hold off on adding fishes and corals until the other
life forms get established, you can enjoy all sorts of different life forms that
you wouldn't otherwise get to see.>
Also, how long should I wait before adding livestock to the tank (and by
"livestock", I mean herbivores such as snails and tiny ,hermit crabs)?
<I would add the herbivores as soon as the tank has cycled. Getting
those guys in there before algae becomes a problem is a key to success.>
Thanks!
Keith
<I hope this helps you out. Regards, Scott F.>
Reef System install and HTML issues on WWM
I own and have read your book "Reef Invertebrates" Calfo and Fenner 2003; I
agree it is an excellent resource. In addition I own and have read the following
(approximate titles since they are at home and not at work) : Reef Secrets, The
New Marine Aquarium, Corals for the Mini-Reef Aquarium, Your First Marine
Aquarium, Natural Approach to Marine Reef Aquaria, and read all of your plumbing
FAQs and Articles.
<Okay>
I started studying toward the goal of a Marine Reef Aquarium in my living room
over a year ago and took the message to heart about patience. I ordered the tank
in November and just got an intact one delivered this week. Previously the LFS
delivered a tank but it was chipped for about five inches along one of the back
corners of the glass and I rejected the delivery because I didn't want to put
some 1500 pounds of salt water into a six foot long aquarium with some chips in
the glass.
<You were wise to refuse this tank>
I have previously printed and read the whole plumbing section out of your
website even though on both the printers at home and at work the last right-hand
several characters are missing which makes reading it more challenging.
<I'll bet... there may be some HTML issues... I am not well-versed in their
repair but will cc Jason.C here who is>
Since I got your e-mail below I spoke to the people at the LFS and spoke on the
phone to Mr. Leng Sy about Ecosystems. Over the weekend I went out and bought a
46 gallon bow front which I set up in the dining room as a marine reef with an
EcoSystem 60 for filtration, two 175 gph powerheads, about 28 pounds of live
rock, 30 pounds of sugar sand oolitic type, and 10 lbs of live sand. I justified
this as a combination experiment and as a species tank for an orange eye urchin
for the future since obviously the urchin wouldn't be particularly reef safe for
the 155 gallon.
I spoke to an additional person at Ecosystem who happened to be female and she
said that Tangs were good to use to cycle the tank as they were very hardy; my
husband had wanted a lemon tang and I got a small one and plan to move him to
the 6 foot long tank after it is ready in October.
<Mmm, I do not concur that Tangs are good to cycle marine systems... in fact, I
am a fan of not using live fishes period for this task>
Meanwhile, my main question is, if the tank is for an urchin does that mean it
should be the only algae grazer in the system besides the Tang or should I
follow the advice about 1 blue legged crab per gallon, etc. for other algae
eaters. We would like to have a tomato clown and its anemone in the tank, one
urchin, the tank for awhile until it moves, and then perhaps a bicolor
Pseudochromis. Please advise as to what other livestock would be appropriate:
should I get brittle stars, etc? What corals can stand being around the urchin?
I got a glass lid with a light with two u-shaped power compact fluorescents. I
only have about 1/2 inch of sand in the whole bottom because Leng Sy said so. I
have been planning to have a 5" deep live sand bed and two protein skimmers on
the other 155 gallon tank.
<I would hold off on all other "algae eaters" for now... and add what you will
at a later time after this system has been up a few months. Much easier on all
concerned>
Thank you,
Laura
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Lighting Question
Hi guys/girls
Robert here from South Africa, it has been about a year since I asked
questions about setting up my first marine aquarium.
Everything has gone well but now I am really interested in starting a small
reef system. My tank dimensions are
36" long 23.5"wide and 24" deep. I have searched all over to find correct
lighting for a mini reef and have narrowed it down to 2
options. 1) 2 power compact retro kits each holding 2 lamps of 96w each, 1
10000k daylight and 1 actinic. the second option that
I am thinking about is a hood containing 1 175w 6700K metal halide and 2
power compact 55w actinics. << Go with option #2. I have that type of tank, and
have had both lighting options. I recommend, and love my halides. >>
I don't know if the Power compacts will be enough to reach the bottom of the
tank, I have not decided which corals to keep as I do not want to mix to
many different animals as this I feel is a sure way to slowly kill them in
such a small space, so I would like
it to be species specific, but I do know that the animals that are available
to us in South Africa come from really shallow parts of the
ocean as the sales guy at the LFS said.
Will power compacts be enough if I keep mushrooms at the bottom << Yes but just
about any light will grow mushrooms. >> and the
light loving animals in the top 1/2 of the tank or should I aim at the 175 w
metal Halide fixture.
Any suggestions will be appreciated. << You won't regret getting more light. In
fact in a few months you may want even more than the halide set up. I would
avoid the pc retro kit because I really think you'll want to upgrade too soon.
>>
Regards
Robert
<< Adam Blundell >>
Brilliant Book brought me success - any more thoughts?
Dear Robert,
<Michele>
First and foremost, I would like to thank you, profoundly, for writing "The
Conscientious Marine Aquarist” - my reef tank bible. I realize, of course,
that your book is not intended to be an encyclopedia of reef keeping, yet,
as I have researched, and consulted, experimented, loved and lost, your
book, is indeed, an accurate prediction of outcomes.
<Much good help went into its production>
Second, I would like to apologize for any errors; I am an architect, not a
writer. Although, I find I do an enormous amount of writing despite my
“visual” career choice!
Finally, after two years of loving my 55 gal. Reef tank, I have decided to
upgrade my system to a 180- 210 gal. Aquarium. So, here is the conundrum -
I researched for 4 months before starting my 55 gal. And now, as I am
upgrading, and have the time, and after consideration, the money, I would
like to be able to create an ecosystem. Meaning, I would like to design the
system with the long term health and welfare of my charges in mind. I
would like to prevent the long term deterioration of the system, and would
prefer to create a system that matures and flourishes as time passes.
My 55 gal. Encompasses the following:
Equipment:
55 G. glass Tank (It doesn't scratch! Thus new tank is going to be
glass?)
(2) 175 W. 10000K MH, (2) 110 VHO Blue Actinic
EuroReef Skimmer (ES-5)
15 G. Sump w/ a carbon bag in the sump
Foam Pre-Filter
In tank power head - lots of flow.
72 lbs live rock
5” deep live sand bed
250W heater.
Live Stock:
Misc. red leg & blue leg hermit crabs
(3) species of snail
Red Brittle Star
(2) Sand sifting Star
(2) Emerald Crabs
(2) cleaner/skunk shrimp
(1) peppermint shrimp
Yellow Tang - wish he was fatter.
Flame Angle - god he is fat!
(2) Fire Fish - both same sex, unfortunately.
(5) Blue Chromis
(2) Ocellaris Clown Fish - Probably, by now, a true pair.
Yellow Headed Jaw Fish
Pink Colts Coral - growing like mad (Clowns have taken this as host!)
Red & Blue Mushrooms - Both reproducing
Plate Coral - billowing.
(2) species of Pulsing Xenia - Growing like mad
Star Polyps - spreading over everything, could become a nuisance?
Orange, Blue, Green zoanthids, not growing as quickly as star polyps.
Sawblade Caulerpa - Tang does not eat these - why?
Unidentified species of something (Anemone) - Purple tips, Green arms, white
column. 1.5” noticed at less than 1cm. and grown.
Losses:
(2) Banggai Cardinals - wouldn't eat. I feed a combination of frozen
foods: Mysis shrimp, and Formula Two, finely chopped and dissolved in a cup
of tank water which I pore directly into the tank near the power head. Even
dosed with Garlic…
Note on these fish: I have read in your book, as well as numerous other
sources, that these fish are easy to acclimate to aquarium life. After
consultation with other fish folks, I do not believe this to be the case.
They are very shy, require live food, at least at first, and a fully aged
aquarium with an abundance of live rock life - which I believe they feed on
@ night. They should be considered fragile and not for the beginner.
<Agreed>
Carpet anemone - wouldn't settle in - died, I removed prior to
contamination - smelled vile and I believe the contamination killed my
Flower Pot coral which was doing great. The clown fish were not
interested - although, I have read that they have a predetermination at
birth based upon the anemone they were first born near?
<Not altogether>
Flower Pot Coral, see above.
Maintenance:
10% water changes once a week.
PH/Alk buffer added to my R/O water in rations that equal requirements for
week
Periodic doses of iodine, strontium/ molybdenum every 2 - 3 weeks again in
small doses to my r/o water.
Skimmer cup emptied/cleaned twice a week depending
Carbon changed every 2 months.
Occasionally purchase a leafy algae species which the tang, angle and crabs
gobble up until gone.
SO:
Now that I want to upgrade - gee how to do it right!
Since I will be doing this in a renovated 1911 home - I can adjust the
physical surroundings as required to meet the needs of this aquarium. Thus
the BIG QUESTIONS:
FILTRATION! Refugium: I want to design a sump that encompasses a
refugium. Do you think this is a good idea?
<Yes>
If so, should I skim my tank water before the refugium and then again after?
<After only>
I am planning on purchasing a EuroReef CS-12 for the tank, and could use my
existing ES-5 for the refugium water prior to its return to the tank?
<I'd just use one or the other>
Can I
light my refugium with the cheaper fluorescent - grow lights?
<Yes>
How many gal.
Of water should my sump/refugium allow for? Physical limitations: 90L x
29”D x 36”H.
Water changes: Can I do 5% once a week and still maintain health? I am
concerned about attempting to cart 20Gal. Of salt + 10 Gal. R/O water every
week!
<Likely ten percent would be better>
Lighting: Can I maintain a 210 gal. 29” deep aquarium with my current
lights if I add a supplemental 250W MH/VHO 2’ fixture? Goal of coral growth
should be in line with species friendly to existing.
<Should be fine... you can update later if you see this as necessary,
desirable>
Chiller: Manufacturer + model recommendations?
<Skip if you can. A fan over your sump will likely do>
Live Sand Bed: continue with the 5” sand bed. Is this still considered the
best way to filter? And, current live sand is fine, should I supplement
with courser grained material?
<Five inches is fine... I would not change your current approach>
Live Rock: Planning on the typ. 1.25lbs/gal. Of rock.
I have added live stock very slowly. Typically 1 month minimum between
inhabitants. I also cured my live rock in my tank prior to adding the live
sand and the cleaning crew. Thought this might make it feel more like
“home”? or just give it a grave yard feel! Am thinking of curing the live
rock again in the large tank and then moving the inhabitants of current tank
into the large tank…. Any thoughts or suggestions you might have would be
appreciated. THX.
In summation: Your book was the benchmark. Please, if you have the time or
the inclination, write a detailed reef only version. God knows, knowledge
is priceless and communication is the means from which we all grow.
<A cursory read through our website, www.WetWebMedia.com will likely serve
to gain you further insights>
I know this email may be tedious - if you do not have the time to answer,
please pass it on to someone who may have the time & the experience to be
able to offer suggestions - with regards to the failures of the current
system and suggestions for improvements in the upgraded system.
Thanks so much for your time and attention to these matters.
Best Regards,
Michele Kolbinsky
<A pleasure to meet, share with you. Bob Fenner>
Just basic questions
<Hi Danny>
Hello everyone, and like always thank you for a wonderful site. <Thank you>
Being new to this hobby( four months to be exact) I may have quit early had I
not found
this website. My questions are pretty general, yet I'm still confused. My 55gal
tank was initially set up as a FOWLR. I have 60lbs of live rock, and maybe
100lbs
of crushed coral creating a four inch bed. I have two ocellaris clowns and one
Firefish in quarantine. I have a remora pro skimmer (hang on) and a Fluval 304.
I
also have a Rio 200 and 50 for additional water movement. Though I never thought
I would, I am now interested in starting a mini reef. <GREAT> My questions are
as follows: Can I still use my crushed coral? <Actually crushed coral can be a
good place for pods to breed.> Can I add a little live sand on top? <I would
not suggest doing that for many reason but the most basic is the bacterial bed>
I do plan on purchasing two small hang on refugiums from CPR and using live sand
in them. Will this be counterproductive using live sand in the refugiums, and
crushed coral in the
display tank? <Actually, probably a very good deal. I'm a huge fan of
refugiums.> Also what types of lighting do you recommend? <The lighting will
need to be suitable for what you plan to put into your aquarium. I encourage
you to research thoroughly the creatures you add to your aquarium so you can
provide what they need. I can tell you for my part that this website is huge
with knowledge on the animals and their requirements. Bob and the rest of the
crew have done an amazing job. (Speaking as the newest member of the crew.)> I
am currently using an eclipse hood with four 15 watt fluorescent lights. I only
know that I would like to get a anemone for the clowns right now, but would like
good lighting for the future. <Please get your lighting ready before you add the
anemone. The clowns will be just fine without an anemone until you are ready.>
I'm pretty sure I wont get as serious as some of the other hobbyist (my other
hobby is my 2 yr old son) <priorities are important> but none to less would
still buy good lights for the future. I also plan to purchase more LR, so If I
do decide on live sand, can these both be cycled at the same time, in the same
tank? <Any addition of life rock and or live sand could potentially have an
effect on your tank. It can cause the ammonia to rise and start some mini cycles
so the trick is to add things very slowly.> I have also been reading that my
Fluval may be a nitrate hazard. <It's not the Fluval so much as the media
within. I know people who run empty canisters that don't have the problem as
long as they are cleaned periodically. Also, should you add the refugium, the
sea grasses and Caulerpas should help to balance the nitrates.> Should I rid my
system of this, since my nitrates stay at a constant 10ppm? Could also use some
suggestions on how to lower the heat in my tank. Temp. stays at 78 -80 degrees
with hood up and heater at lowest temp. With hood down, temp. hovers around
80-82 degrees. Summer heat also
boost temp. in tank. <You might find the addition of fans takes your temperature
to where it should be. Also, switching the heater to one that's more digitally
accurate?> Although not a tremendous problem, scared that a good N. California
heat spell could jump tank another two degrees to 82-84 plus. My tank is 19
inches deep, 4 feet long, 14 inches wide. Sorry for the long questionnaire, just
wanted to get all my questions out in one go around. <Hope I was able to help
and point you in the right direction.> Once again thank you guys for everything.
<Good luck, Mac>
- System Building -
Hi all you good crew,
Hope you're all fit & healthy. <I hope so too...>
I would, if at all possible, like to enlist your help in the building of my new marine system. This project is going to take me up to 3 months and I have a million and one questions I would like to fire at you over this period if I may? <I'd really encourage you to spend some of that time reading instead - many of the questions folks ask us are
repetitive, and we archive them ALL for folks like you to read through. Please avail yourself to the pages within
www.WetWebMedia.com first - ask questions once you can't find the answer anywhere else.>
This will be a full blown reef system and as always there are many obstacles to climb, as I am finding out even in the planning stage. I will start by trying to outline (verbally) what I am trying to achieve. I would very much like to send you a rough drawing to make it clearer to you if that's ok? One of the goals in this exercise is to make access to the daily/weekly chores i.e. skimmer cups, chemical filtration material renewal, Water changes etc easily accessible with no (or not too much at least) bending due to a back injury.
In a nutshell the display tank (tanks?) will be six feet in length either one tank or a 4x2x2 plus a 2x2x2 next to each other.
The main reason for having two tanks if needed is because I have a BTA and I now know (thanks to you guys) that this very much limits what I can put in this tank, especially when it comes to sessile inverts.
Right, the tank will be against a wall and behind that wall I have a small storage room, (closet to you!) This is where all and I mean all, of the filtration will take place. Below I will list what these filters will be and roughly how they will be utilized.
For arguments sake I will ask the following questions based on a 6x2x2 display.
Main tank aiming at 15x per hour turnover. Will 5 x 2" holes be too much in a 6' for outlet to sump? <No.> And where is the best place to put these holes? I was thinking of near the top at the back of the tank with some kind of
weir along the entire length at the back? <That would work fine.>
Or would it be better to put hem down one side? <No - best to keep overflows near the top incase the power fails - you wouldn't want to drain the entire tank into something that isn't prepared to hold that volume of water.> From main display then to... main sump, 55 gallons (on floor) with two
Eheim 1264's for the main return to the display tank. <If I'm not mistaken, this will not give you 15x turnover.> This sump will basically be one tank with just foam pads for mechanical filtration.
Now comes my first real question and is the basis for this setup. Will it be possible to pump from the sump, UP 7 feet to a DSB (15 (UK) gallons) with mangroves and other algae for NNR... then this all flows under gravity to another DSB (15 gallons) underneath the first one... <It is possible, yes.> This will be for pod production etc... from here, under gravity down again to a tank housing the two skimmers and chemical (carbon/PolyFilters etc)... and from hear down back to the main 55 gallon sump on the floor.
Does this make any sense or am I trying to make it more complicated than it need be? <Makes sense - you may find yourself challenged for space in a closet - consider getting some cardboard boxes the approximate size of the equipment you wish to place in this location and set it up - make sure you can still move in there and that your requirement for limited bending will be met.>
I want to get rid of canister filters (or maybe just keep one on the system for QT tank or hospital tank use in emergency) <Good plan.>
OK that's it for now my friends. I hope I made my intentions clear enough and if you have any questions please ask.
Many, Many thanks.
Simon.
<Cheers, J -- >
Getting It Right From The Start! (System Design)
Hi all you good crew, My saviors ( or should I say savouries!!)
Hope you're all fit & healthy.
<Doin' my best!>
I would, if at all possible, like to enlist your help in the building of my new marine system. This project is going to take me up to 3 months and I have a million and one questions I would like to fire at you over this period if I may?
<I will only answer the first million questions, okay? LOL>
This will be a full blown reef system and as always there are many obstacles to climb, as I am finding out even in the planning stage. I will start by trying to outline (verbally) what I am trying to achieve. I would very much like to send you a rough drawing to make it clearer to you if that's ok? One of the goals in this exercise is to make access to the daily/weekly chores i.e. skimmer cups, chemical filtration material renewal, Water changes etc easily accessible with no (or not too much at least)
bending due to a back injury.
<Really good thinking! It's so much easier to design your system with these chores in mind!>
In a nutshell the display tank (tanks?) will be six feet in length either one tank or a 4x2x2 plus a 2x2x2 next to each other.
The main reason for having two tanks if needed is because I have a BTA and I now know (thanks to you guys) that this very much limits what I can put in his tank, especially when it comes to sessile ( and motile) inverts.
<Cool- glad that we were a positive influence for you on that one!>
............Right, the tank will be against a wall and behind that wall I have a small storage room, (closet to you!) This is where all and I mean all, of the filtration will take place. Below I will list what these filters will be and roughly how they will be utilized.
For arguments sake I will ask the following questions based on a 6x2x2 display.
<Okay!>
Main tank aiming at 20x per hour turnover. Will 5 x 2" holes be too much in a 6' for outlet to sump?
<More than you probably need, but certainly workable. I'd get some extra bulkheads that you can use to block them as needed>
And where is the best place to put these holes?......(The closet behind the tank is the width of only half the tank) I was thinking of near the top at the back of the tank with some kind of
weir along the entire length at the back? How would I
achieve this?
<A full-length overflow is a really neat idea. Do get a copy of Anthony Calfo's "Book of Coral Propagation" for a complete discussion of this concept>
Or would it be better to put the holes down one side?......So the water will then flow From main display then downwards to main sump, 55 gallons (on floor) with two
Eheim 1264's for the main
return to the display tank. This sump will basically be one tank with just foam pads for mechanical filtration.
<Personally, I'd ditch the Eheim. They are wonderful filters, but with an efficient "natural" sump system, these will be
unnecessary, and could contribute to nutrient accumulation if the media are not replaced/cleaned often. Plus, you'll save $$ on electricity over time! Better to invest in a good protein skimmer, IMO>
Pod production: Now comes my first real question and is the basis for this setup. Will it be possible to pump from the 55g sump, UP 7 feet to a 15 gallon live with live rock DSB (15 (UK) gallons) This will be for pod production etc .........from here, under gravity down again to main display tank, NNR.
<Sounds really nice! I like the idea, if you can pull it off. You just need to have a pump that can operate under the required head pressure>
Another pump from the 55g sump up to another DSB (15 gallons) underneath the "pod production" tank. This time with mangroves and other algae in it for NNR this will also flow under gravity back to a 20g tank, where all the skimming takes place.
<Cool...I really like your concept so far!>
Next will be a tank where all the skimming takes place and then chemical (carbon/PolyFilter etc) ..........and
from here down back to the main 55 gallon sump on the floor.
<Normally, I'd go with the skimming first, so that the skimmer receives a constant flow of the most organic-rich water from the display. However, if you're using the
mangrove/macroalgae refugium and 'pod production facility, then it sounds like your skimmer is fine where you plan on placing it>
Return to main display This is then returned to the main display. Does this make any sense or am I trying to make it more complicated than it need be? I have all this space and I hate canister filters with a passion and would want to get rid of my Lifeguard 600 too.
<Yep- I'd dump the canister filters. If your system is set up as you plan it, you'll have great natural biological filtration, nutrient export and denitrification, and won't have to use these filters on any type of regular basis.>
Maybe I will keep just one canister filter for QT tank or hospital tank use in emergency.
<A great idea. Keep a filter sponge or other media in the sump to help "colonize" beneficial bacteria when not required. Then, when you to set up the QT, your filter is ready to go!>
OK that's it for now my friends. I hope I made my intentions clear enough and if you have any questions please ask.
Many, Many thanks.
Simon.
<Simon, your concept sounds terrific. I will be very excited to hear how it evolves. Feel free to write us again any time should you require additional feedback! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Up and Coming Reef
Ryan, I suppose now would be a good time to toss another subject at you and see if you have any advice. Two weeks ago I set up another tank. It
is a 265 gallon tank with 500lbs of Tonga shelf and branch rock. The tank has a turbo floater t-5000 protein skimmer, a wave maker, 6
MaxiJets, 110 gallon custom sump, two overflow boxes, 240lbs of CaribSea Aragonite, 3 175watt metal halides with 20,000k bulb, two power compact
pendants, three 300 watt heaters, automatic temperature and ph meters, and the system is set up to top off with
RO/DI water. I am in the process of allowing the tank to cycle currently. Do you have any recommendation
for other products, specific corals that will do well in this environment, or what not to do?
<Brian, it sounds like this tank is very well planned. I would encourage you to look into a biotopic display. The Tonga shelf and branch rock is a perfect place to start- And if you stick with all animals from Tongan Reefs (i.e. Colorful wrasses, gold Sarcophytons, hardy butterflies, frilly mushrooms, etc.) you'll not only have a more natural looking display, but the hitchhikers (sponges, misc. corals) will actually add to the overall appearance. I actually think that Tongan reefs are the most breathtaking. These animals already have the tools to coexist, so there is very little adaptation needed from the inhabitants. I'd sure love to see a few pictures once you're up and running!
Good luck, Ryan>
Brian
Setup Review...
Hello Gentlemen.....Thanks for reading this......Here's the question.....My tank is a custom made 120 Gallon with typical dimensions...48 L X 24 H X 24
D.. however I had it built with dual 1 1/2 " overflows with Dursos and 21 linear inches of overflow...and dual 3/4 inch returns split and run to
nozzles on each corner of the tank.. two in the upper rear corners and two in the lower front corners, each pointing towards the center of the tank. My intended corals are colorful zoanthids and other assorted softs, both light loving and low to moderate light loving. Thrown into the mix will most assuredly be a few brains and possibly one moon.
<Nice corals, but an unnatural mix. You may want to reconsider this...>
And a clam of some sort. Question is, will 2 175 watt 10 K MH and 2 110 watt VHO URI actinic be sufficient light to support this ? or can I go with all VHO or all PC or mixed PC and VHO?
<For maximum versatility, I'd go with all halides>
Second question is, my intended pumps were going to be 2 Iwaki RLT 55's for return only from 65 gallon sump running no other
equipment.. Chiller has its own pump and Euroreef CS8-4 external has its own pumps. Will the Iwakis provide sufficient flow used this way or will they be too much for these corals?
<I like the Iwakis for this setup. You can always dial down the flow, or direct it elsewhere if it's too much>
Or should I go larger ?
<I like your pump selection as it stands. These pumps will do about 1050 gph each- plenty of low for this system and the inhabitants you are interested in.>
Thank you for your time...Anthony
<You're quite welcome! Regards, Scott F>
New System Overview
Good Afternoon,
<Hello! Ryan with you>
Thank you for your service. I am setting up my third saltwater
aquarium. The first two are doing well, but I made some of the same
mistakes that so many do. Cheap equipment, wrong fish, etc. I
have one
tank that was three damsels and a large Maroon Clown. The tank exists
because I bought the cute damsels after the LFS assured me they were
peaceful fish and would get along fine. I had to remove them from my
main tank in order for any form of peace to exist. I do not want the
same mistake again. The tank I am setting up has been a slow process
and will remain that way. I have purchased quality items as I could
justify them. It will be a 140 gallon reef tank, it
is a half circle
tank, I have an aqua C EV180 protein skimmer with a Mag 7 pump. The
tank will have 250 W, 10,000 MH Bulbs (2), and 65W PC Actinic (2). I
will also have two 20 gallon acrylic tanks that I will use for the sump
and refugium. <Great! Sounds like you're doing your homework this time
around> I should have approximately 1500 GPH turn over and in
addition two Squids/SCWDs. I will have a 5 -6 " Deep sand bed in the
main
tank and about 125 lbs of live rock. The live rock I have purchased
over
the last 6 months and have cured all of it for several months. I am
about ready to start actually filling the 140 gallon tank. I will let
that cycle for a month or two with just sand and live rock. I want to
have a reef tank, but as far as fish, I want to go with small, colorful,
peaceful, school type fish. <Great choices available> I enjoy the color
and motion more then some
of the large more aggressive fish. I would much rather have two or
three
small schools of fish then large tangs and the like. So, the question
-
what would me a good combination, quantity and stocking order of fish
given the above information? <I really like "Chalk Basslets,"
Serranus tortugarum. Great, peaceful grouping fish. Also a
wonderful small group is a harem of flasher wrasse- 1 male, 2-3 females.>
Question 2 - Is it best to use a different
size substrate in the refugium then the display tank? <I prefer a larger
grain sand in the refugium, as larger grains are more supportive of higher pod
populations> and finally
question 3 - I have two cleaner shrimp in my 55 gallon tank. I also
have a Candy Cane Coral. When I feed the Candy Cane, the shrimp will
steal the food from the Candy Cane Coral. <I once read that sandbed guru Dr.
Ron Shimek felt that the only place peppermint shrimp should be is on a Ritz
cracker! They can be a real problem, stealing food before polyps have
the chance to eat.> Is there some way around
this? <Not really-They're opportunists by nature> Is it best not to have
shrimp in a reef tank? <They can obliterate pod populations, and will kill
all sorts of beneficial critters. I'm not in favor of peppermint
shrimp in a naturally filtered reef tank.> Thank you for your
time. It is amazing how addicting this hobby can be. <It's a
powerful feeling to reconstruct an eco-system, and a daunting task. I
wish you the best of luck! Ryan>
Tracy
Upgrades (5/2/2004)
Two months ago I started my 1st reef tank. Everything is
going quite well. I started with a 37 gal tank. You guessed it. Too
small, too many limitations. <Sounds like my room>
I hate not having the width and am unable to have a sump due to a center support
in the base cabinet. I think I'd like to make the move to a larger tank in 3 or
4 months but in the interim I could be purchasing the required supplies. I have
an opportunity to purchase a 58 gal Oceanic tank and have it drilled. I'd sell
the tank and the stand. I could keep my 30" wide PC's for this but would
have to use the glass cover (can't use the legs) in addition to purchasing a
single 96w PC for a total of 226 watts. <Perfect for coralline, 'shrooms, and
most soft corals> After rock and a DSB I figure I'll have 4-4 1/2
watts/gallon - good enough I figure for softies/mushrooms. <Quite so> I'm
also kicking around the idea of purchasing either a 75 or 72 gallon "reef
ready" tank and attempting to sell my lights/tank/stand to purchase new
lights (MH ???) <Decision should mostly depend on what you're interested in
keeping>. I love the looks of the bow tank but I'm not sure of the drawbacks
they may present. <In terms of?> I know I want to have a sump
and I'm intrigued by the use of manifolds. Are there diagrams available that
would give you the detailed specs. for such a set up. For instance, I'd begin
with what size holes to drill in the tank? Specs. for the plumbing?
<www.reefcentral.com has an excellent DIY forum, and a google search reveals
some intriguing results as well> Optimally, what size return pump? <You
mean, what GPH? For a 75 gallon tank and using a manifold as your
only source of water movement, you'll want to look at something that moves about
1000 GPH, which should meet your needs after head and other restrictions are
calculated in> After making the mistake with my initial purchase I don't
think my wife would be so understanding the 2nd time around - bless her heart. <Can't
blame her :)>
Regards, Bill <Anytime. M. Maddox>
Reef tank wave setup
Hi,
<Hello. Graham at your service!>
I have a 125 gal Salt water corner show tank. It's 32" high, and 36"
wide @ two sides and 37 1/2 " across the front. I am setting it up as a
reef tank w/ the reef walls along the two sides. To save water volume, increase
swimming space and increase current potential I built some PVC shelves on the 2
sides of the tank 22" high, 6 wide, and 14 long to build my reef around. I
will set the live rock around and on top of it. That way the fish can swim
around the back a little more and I don't loose as much water volume when I add
the rock. I want to put some power heads in the tank under the shelves and hook
them up to a wave machine. >From there I can point them in different
directions and you won't see them. I have a 40 gal sump underneath w/ a Mag
drive 1200. The output from it has a 4 1/2 foot rise and dumps into the tank at
the top center thru a flex splitter w/ two ports (sorry I'm not sure what it's
really called so I described it for ya).
<I see one small problem with this. If you choose to hide the powerheads
within the rock, make sure you can easily have access to the powerheads and can
take them out if they ever need repairing or cleaning.>
I want to use JBJ powerheads. Does the set up sound good?
<JBJ will work. However, I'm very fond of Maxi-Jet powerheads.>
What size powerheads? How many?
<It really depends what species of coral you're wishing to keep. As an
example, Acropora would need considerably more flow than zoanthids would. As a
start, I would try to get around 900-1000gph of power heads.>
Suggestions for direction to point them?
<I would lay one near the bottom of the tank, pointing upwards, one on the
right side of the tank pointing left, one on the left side of the tank pointing
right, and possibly another powerhead of your choice.>
Suggestions for the tank?
<I would invest some of your money in a WaveMaker. The RedSea WaveMaster pro
is a very good unit which is able to power four powerheads. This Wavemaker is
very easy to setup. You simply plug the powerheads into the back of the
wavemaker, and plug the wavemaker in. You then can setup how much current you
wish to have in your tank and what flow you would like. It's also priced at a
very reasonable price.>
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
<No problem!>
Please hurry I'm anxious to get going on the set up. :) -Kevin
<Take Care! Graham.>
72g bowfront
Hello <How goes it, Michael here> I am in the process of setting up a
reef tank 72 g bowfront <How deep?> I want to eventfully keep a clam &
an Anemone. The question I have goes to lighting and water movement. If I
was to try to keep the clam & an Anemone on the bottom of the tank:
1. Would 4 x 96 power compact lighting be sufficient and if not how much more pc
lighting would I need <You may have success with some of the lower light
tolerant clams such as Squamosas, but pretty much all Tridacna clams do better
under relatively intense metal halide lighting. However, (depending upon the
species, but in general) the PC lighting should be fine for anemones, depending
upon the water depth>
OR
2. 2 HQI 150 w de metal halide 16 k bulbs, how far up from the top of the
aquarium do I need to mount the MH? <This sounds like a much better lighting
scheme for clams. Mounting height really depends upon the depth of the tank, but
as a rule of thumb not closer than 4" and not higher than 12". You may
want to supplement the halides with some PC actinic, as well>
3. Heat, some have told me that the PC lighting setting top of the glass
aquarium cover will heat that tank as much as the MH would <Definitely a
possibility. You may want to purchase a hood with cooling fans, or install some
yourself. Anthony Calfo's book of Coral Propagation has DIY guides, as does the
internet>
4. Which is more power efficient to run $$$ PC lighting or MH with a electronic
ballast? <Seeing as how watts=Amps x Volts, the power consumption is the
wattage. 300 watts of metal halide compared to 384 watts of PC lighting would
precipitate to the metal halides consuming less actual electricity.>
5. Water movement I was thinking of using 2 Rio hyper flow rh32 1920gph is this
enough, too much, to little? <Depends how you go about it. If these pumps
were used in a closed loop that delivered flow to various parts of the aquarium,
they would be fine. If you're just going to have them delivering laminar flow to
2 spots in the aquarium, you seriously need to rethink your water movement>
Any feedback is greatly appreciated <No problems>
Ken <M. Maddox>
First marine attempt
Hello,
<Howdy>
I'm a brand new marine hopeful.... I recently purchased my first tank and equipment -- a 30-gallon cube-shaped
tank with a powerful canister, live sand and rock, a hood, light and a heater.
Now.....I also purchased your book and was discouraged to find that 30 gallons is less than ideal. I have determined to purchase a significantly
larger tank and the necessary apparatus, but since I've come this far, I would like to go ahead and make this system work, but after reading your
words of warning, I am cautious about what and how much to add. I like chemistry and I can be disciplined with the upkeep.
<A good trait/characteristic>
Knowing in advance that you don't recommend a system this size, I'm hoping for a bit of advice. Do
you recommend avoiding a reef system entirely in a 30-gallon system?
<Not necessarily... but do urge even further research, diligence in making investments, livestock additions, changes in such smaller volumes>
I plan to stick with your recommendations for fish -- Hawkfish, blenny, etc. What about a single
Jawfish?
<Possibly... though I would likely cross a/the Hawkfish off your list>
And, finally, I would love to have featherdusters. Suggestions?
<Tube-dwelling worms would be very nice. I strongly encourage your taking the time between waiting on the curing of your live rock to peruse the many articles and FAQs files archived on our site, www.WetWebMedia.com. Bob Fenner>
Thank you ~
Kind regards, Crescent
Dundee, Oregon
FOWLR TO Reef!
I currently have a 55g saltwater with a Percula and Maroon clown (no live rock). I'm using a Eheim canister filter, Seaclone skimmer, powerhead, and 48in strip light with actinic bulb.
I want to add live rock, already have sand, mixed live and aquarium sand. Will it kill my clownfish if I add small amts of live rock purchased from LFS at a time?
<Well, if you are purchasing or using "cured" live rock, the impact on your water quality should be negligible, and the long-term benefits will be many. Make sure that your protein skimmer is working hard!>
I mainly want corals. What type of lighting do you suggest I get?
<Wow! That's the million dollar question! Really depends on the type of corals that you intend to keep. Personally, I'm a bit partial to metal halide, for the flexibility that it affords. You may want to consider the double-ended (HQI) pendants that are available from manufacturers like Sunlight Supply and PFO (go for 150 watt pendants if you go this route. They are reasonably priced, and give you the ability to keep a great variety of animals healthy and happy.>
Thanks for all your information
<My pleasure! Good luck with your new adventure! Regards, Scott F>
Mini reef setup - 4/7/04
Sorry for the long dissertation, but I felt a good back ground would help
when giving me your thoughts. "<Always a good idea>
To start, here is my mini-reef setup data:
The tank is a 20-gallon Via Aqua all glass with curved edges in the front. The
dimensions are 20L x 13W x 19H with an open canopy. The lighting is a PC with 2
36 watt lights, one white and one actinic blue. The filter is a Via Aqua VA780
that hangs on the back with a built in venture protein skimmer <Hmmmm....>
and a 5-watt UV sterilizer turning 150 GPH. <Likely overkill and a waste of
money but if it came with the setup (all inclusive)
well.....then.....> The tank uses cartridge filters that have a
very small amount of carbon in them and they suggest changing them monthly.
<I would change a little more frequently> The heater is a 100-watt heater
that sits in the filter chamber. <Good enough> I have three power heads
for circulation, 1 swivel head at 226 GPH, 2 standard at 200 GPH. I have the
swivel and one standard working the top half of the tank, at each side pointing
to the middle front of the tank creating nice movement. <only time will tell
if there is enough current/flow as algae build up is usually the by-product
(combined with high nutrients)> The last power head is located near the
bottom blowing water directly across the back of the tank to avoid any dead
spots. <excellent> The thermometer is a digital one for improved accuracy
and located in the lower center of the back glass ( Temp 77-79 steady). <Love
the digital readouts. Be sure to check them by comparing with a known good
thermometer for temp accuracy> I plan on using a fan to cool during hotter
times. <Sounds like my setup. I too have a 20 gallon. BakPak skimmer, heater
and fan using an Aqualogic dual phase controller to turn the fan on when too hot
(above 81) or the heater when the temp drops below 77.5 I have a 250w PFO lighting
system though> I use RO water for top off and will perform 2
gallon water changes every weekend. <Sounds good. As the algae cycle
continues for a few months (will come in time. Always does) then you might want
to up the changes>
I started my tank by adding 40 pounds of Carib Sea Arag Alive Sand to about
2.5-3.0 inches deep. <I think a minimum of 3 inches is good but below that
could become an issue in the long run> I started the cycle using a
medium size piece of raw shrimp <Good idea instead of a live one or some
damsel> and once the cycle took place, about two weeks, my reading are as
follows: Ammonia "0", Nitrite "0", Nitrate
"5", PH "8.4", salinity "1.022". <Sounds good.
I like my salinity to be about 1.025 or so with my density to be around
35ppt> I am very patient,<A good trait to have in this hobby> so after
four weeks I added some live rock ruble from a friends cycled tank to see what
would happen. I know have a little algae bloom, but very minor with
some brown and green mainly, but very small amount of red. <Coralline will
come in time. The water, substrate, rock, need to age to water conditions and
stability. Give it a few more months> My next step is to add 3 large pieces
of cycled base rock, also from my friends tank and a small cleanup
crew. I will wait two weeks and if all is well, add my premium Fiji
branch and rock mix. <Sounds like a great plan> I expect a little spike in
water quality, <Could be a little cycle or could be a lot. I would cycle the
live rock for four weeks in a separate container or just add it now before
adding the cleanup crew> but hopefully nothing to worry about. <Never
count on it being "nothing to worry about"> After a few
weeks, I would begin to build by inhabitants. <Excellent>
My plans are to make this a coral tank with only three-four small fish and
several varieties of soft corals. <No more than four fish (small) would be
fine> Do you feel that the setup I have will support a long term healthy tank
or I should make any changes. <Well, depends on the kind of coral. You might
want to add more lighting if you plan to keep SPS or clams. I like either PCs or
MH. But I think 2x36 watt PCs is not quite enough PAR for SPS. You will likely
do well with a variety of soft corals, though. Also, I have no experience with
the ViaAqua equipment and I have never heard of the skimmer you mention (or
integration) so if it fails to produce skimmate you might want to upgrade to a
CPR BakPak or Remora from AquaC as I have used these in small reef setups with
great success. Sounds good otherwise. Enjoy. ~Paul>
Sincerely,
Setting up a reef tank 4/5/04
Anthony, Thanks for the fast response! You've also turned me
around before I spent money, thank you! So, this has led to further
questions:
1. If I reduce the 3 MH lights from 250W to 175W, still sticking with
Aqualines, would this reduce the light enough to allow for mushrooms and
zoanthids?
<yes, indeed... to be kept mostly in the bottom third of the tank (some
genera/species excluded by favoring brighter light like Ricordea)>
If it's close, would putting them near the bottom, or under ledges
help?
<correct>
Would reducing the lighting period help?
<generally a very bad habit>
Bringing the PCs up first, then the two outside MH's, and finally the center MH,
shutting them down in reverse?
<many possibilities here>
2. Besides the 2 20g refugiums already running on the old tank, I was
considering adding a 10g at the top of the rack and keep peppermint shrimp there
to breed, with the return running back to the main display
tank. Would 10g be large enough?
<nifty, yes>
I can get another 20, but it will be up pretty high. I considered
trying to acclimate black mollies both as an experiment and the hope of more
free food, but I can't seem to find any that look healthy enough to bother
trying.
3. Reading more articles here, I have discovered the issue of not
using RO/DI directly for make up water. When doing water changes I
have always followed precautions, but feed make up directly.
<yikes! at best this is a burden to you ALK and/or pH>
Since I have so much to order for this new tank anyway and cost isn't an issue,
do you think the Kold Ster-il would work better just for automated make up
water?
<a very nice unit, although I'm still sold on simple 2-column de-ionizers>
I know now even THAT is best not added directly. I was considering a
temporary holding tub that would be replenished automatically, but continuously
aerated and heated, then gravity fed to the sump with a float
valve. Possibly keeping a good bed of crushed coral or aragonite in
the bottom to help a little?
<the latter being overkill/unneeded or complicating>
Since I already have it, the RO/DI would still be used for water
changes. The system will also have a calcium reactor.
Thanks again!!!!!
<sounds like it will be a great system/start. Kindly, Anthony>
Lighting 90 gallon reef 3/28/04
I am getting close to having all the necessary pieces together for my 90
Reef Tank but now am at the all important lighting decision phase. Here is what
I am planning to use. I have access to very cheap Metal Halide system using two
250W MH bulbs at 8500K and 18,000 lumens per bulb. Will these two lights be
sufficient or will other lighting with a higher K rating be needed. Thanks for
all the great info on this site. Erik in Spokane
<its impossible to pick one's lights before you pick your species that will
be kept (cnidarians have such very different needs!). Its like asking "What
should I feed my pet" without stating if your pet is a bird, dog, cat or
fish. Please take the time to read through our very extensive archives at
WetWebMedia.Com on the topic of marine lighting and beyond. I have several
recent and concise articles there myself. Anthony>
A Tank in Paradise
hello,
<Hi! Ryan with you today>
I would be so very grateful if you could help me set-up my dream which is a
reef aquarium <I will be happy to help>
I wouldn't say I'm a new to this field but I'm someone who's been trying
different ways with the limited resource for a longtime. <I see> I'm from
Maldives,
which we can get any coral or fish from our backyard. <Lucky dog> but the
problem is how
can I thrive these in my aquarium, with the help of lot of articles, I've
now finally made up mind to go for my new tank, which I hope would last much
longer than my previous ones, coz I don't want to kill those animals in my
tank although I can get it whenever I want. <Any living thing deserves a fair
chance at life, free or pricey.> so I have a 3 feet tank and my
biggest problems comes when it comes to filtration. <I see> I have a sump
which is
bigger than my tank, which is divided into four parts. before I always
submerge the biomedia, it works too in converting ammonia and nitrate, but I
hear that trickling water through biomedia works much better, so I've made a
trickling tower filled with conduit tube pieces which I assume will work
close to bioballs in doing the job hence I don't get bioballs here.<Do you
have access to live rock? This would be even more helpful in
filtration> so my
biggest question is what will happen if the siphon stops by means of a power
cut or some other way, and once the media get's dry will all the bacteria
survive or where does it end up, to my knowledge, if something like that
happens the biomedia submerged will survive but in that case what will
happen when the trickling stops. <Yes, the bacteria can die |
