Lighting a 35 gallon reef tank - 10/14/03
Hi There, <Hey>
I want to have a reef system. <OK> I did my study about the corals and lighting. <Very good> The problem is the only LFS in my area has nothing to do with selling reef lighting <Can they order from their supplier for you?> so I just wanna know is it possible to buy the lighting from a normal light store? <Possible. Look for DIY lighting in your favorite search engine. Why can't you order from a mail order company? Many will ship quite some distance. Too costly to do it this way?> They sell PC and MH <Well, if they sell the equipment for this type of lighting, I would still be sure to get an aquarium rated bulb for either PC or MH. Any other lighting will be just too red/orange for a reef aquarium.> I am not planning on having SPS or anemones. <Soft corals then? PC is ideal in this situation for your tank size.> My tank is 35gal .So what do u think? <PC would do very well with a bulb in the 10,000K spec. Of course all this depends on what you plan to keep in your reef. Thanks for the question -Paul>

Eco System Flexibility
Hi Bob,
<Scott F. here for you today!>
If you would be so kind, I have two questions for you.
<Sure will try!>
1. Have you heard of this product called PROBIOTIC MARINE FORMULA available at LiveAquaria.com and what do you think about it?
<I have heard of this product, but have not used it, and therefore cannot render an opinion on it! I'd post on the WWM Chat Forum to see if any of your fellow hobbyists have used this product>
2. Many people are using the Ecosystem method in their reef tanks and are reporting great results. Ecosystem recommends 4-6 times sump volume per hour in water flow. This is way below the water flow that is necessary for the corals. Are these successful reefers just adding powerheads to the main tank?
<Sure...lots of hobbyists use external powerheads, like the Tunze Turbelles, Gemini pumps, and others. You can move a lot of water through a tank with minimal heat, power consumption, and expense. Such powerheads (both internal and external types) provide remarkable flexibility in a wide range of situations>
Since I think that powerheads take away from the beauty of a reef tank, I would be more inclined to add a REEFUGIUM ( by ecosystem ) above tank setup to my reef and keep high water flows via a strong pump.. would this mud system be less efficient than the regular sump style ecosystem?
<I don't believe that it would be less efficient, but it may be less flexible. In other words, sumps provide you with greater versatility for adding additional chemical media, etc.>
Thanks for all of your help. Peace, Sal
<My pleasure, Sal! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

-More thoughts on reef set-up-
Thanks for the reply Kevin. Your knowledge really means a lot here. In fact, it made me go out and buy a Dolphin 2100 Aqua Sea Amp Master. <Note to self, inquire with Dolphin about my commission check...> It's supposed  to do 2100gph @ a 7' head. I will adjust the flow rate to around 1100gph when it arrives. <So, if you only needed half the flow, why would you get this one? Maybe we talked about this last time, but it escapes me.> I am also removing the bio media from the system and converting the W/D system to a Reef. <Very cool, things will go a little smoother this way.> I will be using a 20 gal low for the sump (canning the W/D).  Concerning corals, I think I'm going to wait a bit before I acquire corals and have to jack up the lighting to 400watt MH's. Just had a baby <Congrats! Although they will tighten the budget of your tank, you should have thought about this more... ;) >(thank you) and baby thinks that flow rate is more important (at this point) than lighting is. I agree. I will hold off for corals sake!!! (BTW, After 1 week of curing there are 2 *beautiful* yellow SPS's growing like wildfire 7" below my right overflow(14" below light sources). No idea what they are nor do I care!!!:-) <Hmmm...>
Anyway, The secondary question I have for you is how long should I run the URI's while curing LR? I did a search in the FAQ's but didn't see anything (very surprising!!!). <Surprise again, there's an entire FAQ section dedicated to this very subject: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrlightingfaqs.htm, so there!> I have, in the past, cured LR in my garage, in pitch black, for 30+ days in 80+ deg water. I have never cured LR in the main though. Obviously I do not want to promote microalgae growth (which is starting to occur on my tank walls).  Tank parameters are what you would expect one week into LR (120lbs) curing (using FasTest): Amm=off the chart; Nitrate=10; Nitrite= 0.6 <Ouch, you've let the water quality get out of hand. You'll end up killing many more things that had survived the initial shipping. Do several large water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrite at a minimum.>
So light requirements might be...what? 4hours? 6hours? Full blown 12-14? There is some nice macro still on the LR. Desirable? It looks like one of the "jacks" from the child's game, only 3 times larger and obviously green. <Check the FAQ's. If you are using proper nutrient control methods (large frequent water changes, protein skimming, carbon use, etc) then you should be able to keep the rock fully lit without worrying too much about a nuisance algae outbreak. I'd say leave them off for a while until you get your water cleaned up.>
And at last!!! After 3 hours of lights off, I (jerk like) turn the lights on in the main tank to see what's going on. Last eve I saw about 3 dozen pieces of rice darting around the tank like they were Hau'oli folks at a Waianae Lu'au. <Whoa, talking to a dumb Massachusetts guy here! They're probably either amphipods or copepods, but they won't be around long with those ammonia and nitrite levels...> What were they? Will they be around for a while?
Thanks Bra, <Enjoy! -Kevin>
Randy in Hawaii.

-Checked out the cook-book reef approach-
Hey Kevin, I was reading the cook-book approach to marine set up for the (?) time, I understand from this article that you put the Sand in first after rinsing it and then the pre-mixed seawater. I'll only be able to afford about half the rock I need to start out. <I hear ya, nothing cheap about this hobby, especially the gross, wet, low-tide smellin' rock that we get overnighted from thousands of miles away!> When do you put in the Live rock? <Since the rock will be the first live introduction, you'll put it in once the water is at the proper temperature and specific gravity and has been running for a day or two.> and how do you go about that step-by-step? <If you'll be using uncured rock, you'll want to cure it. My preferred way is to do it right in the tank without any substrate. This way it will cycle the tank, provide a large volume of water to dilute the toxins produced during the curing process, and it will break in the skimmer in no time flat. Check out: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lrcurefaqs.htm for more info on that subject. If the rock is cured, just plop it all in after a quick rinse in aged seawater.>
I wanted to let you know that I became involved in the forum and have gotten a few questions answered there as well. <Excellent, it's a great way to get tons of opinions on the same question and meet fellow reefers!> lots of good people involved on that end of your site. If you look through it, I am the guy "MTaquarium" maybe I'll change the name when its full (LOL). <Excellent, well, I hope this helps! -Kevin>
Cheers. Mike Tol

Reef Plumbing - 8/27/03
Anthony, I have absorbed almost all I can on the website, plus all the questions you all have answered so graciously in emails.  I believe I have all the kinks worked and am looking to make sure there aren't any more flies in the soup (I've had a few).  10 months of research and I still don't have all the answers *sigh*  The tank is a 90G glass with a 29G Sump that will house the AquaC EV-240 PS, 2 250W heaters, etc.  I found a diagram that you had posted about reef aquarium hardware and am going to use an internal skimmer box that spans the back of the tank.  It will be plumbed with 4 2" bulkheads that drain into the sump.  
<excellent>
The water will be initially returned by an Iwaki MD70RLT (you talked me into it), but the sump will also be pre-plumbed for another Iwaki (55 or 70).  The second pump will be added 6-9 months after the "above the display tank" (your very convincing)  29G refugium is complete to make sure it has time to mature producing ooooodles of zooplankton before corals are added.
<heehee... it will pay off my friend :) >
The second pump should increase the flow rate to ~2000-2400Gph @ 6ft. Each pump will be split for 3 return lines that will be routed through the canopy and have swiveling 45 degree elbows just below the water's surface (4 corners 1 middle front and 1 middle back).  I had initially thought about just getting an Iwaki MD100RLT, but I like the redundancy.  Comments?  
<agreed... the redundancy is good. Also... see here for a manifold description:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbh2oret.htm >
The only other thing I have a question on is who should I graciously mail the check to? haha.  Thanks once again for everything and I'm sure we'll be talking again. Jeremy
<very welcome my friend... best of luck! Anthony>

Reef Plumbing - 8/28/03
Ok Anthony.   The inevitable has happened.  I have discovered 2 more questions since your last response.  
<all good :) >
How far should the internal skimmer box be below the top of the tank?  
<just low enough for comfort/safe running... likely around or not much more than 1-2" from the top of the tank. The running water level will only be 1/4" or so over that>
I also read your article on the manifold setup u gave me the link to (excellent informative reading).  
<thanks kindly>
When I plumb the tank will there be any problems that you foresee by hooking up both return pumps to the single manifold?
<hmmm... I'm not trilled about it... does complicate matters slightly. If both pumps are plumbed at the same height on the same sump... then OK. Else, it is not recommended>
I also anxiously await the arrival of my copy of "Reef Invertebrates" Once again thanks to you, Bob, and the whole crew for the amazing wealth of knowledge you so kindly share with those of us wishing to increase our understanding in this amazing hobby.
Jeremy
<best regards! Anthony>

Starting A Reef Without Ending A Marriage!
Dear Mr. F, oops, Scott.
<Yeah- "Scott" is much better than "Mr." anything! LOL>
Thank you for your suggestions and comments - most helpful.
<I'm glad you found them useful!>
Mr. Kim did indeed get back to me with an online store who sell the AquaC line here in Australia. I was expecting them to cost a bit and wasn't disappointed =\
<They are excellent skimmers!>
The tank (24x24x18 - 170L / 45gal US) was originally slated to be a Lamprologine shellie home but I changed my tune prior to setting it up but after purchasing an Eheim classic, lighting, heater (useless stainless steel! bring on a Visitherm) and so forth.
The bottom line here is that I will be adding approx. 15kg (33 pound) of live rock over several months (minimize die off) atop an aragonite substrate. It was hoped I could house an anemone with a pair of clowns and that was going to be it. After reading of the high fatality rates I'm obligated to not acquire one of these fascinating creatures and therefore the clowns are out, too, or rather won't be going in to begin with.
<I'm glad that you decided to hold back on the anemone for a while. That is a very responsible decision on your part! BTW- you can keep Clownfishes just fine without anemones...No problem at all>
The tank will be lightly stocked re: fish though now I don't know what they will be - plenty of time.
<That's the right attitude!>
I looked at the Tunze several days ago. The model that'd 'suit' my tank rated at 180L model 210/3 is possibly not the best option so moving up a step I see a 230/3 and 240/3 but not 220/3? That's not the point though, the point here is that the 230/3 is $666 AU *ouch*
<Yep- a big-time investment in any hemisphere!>
So right, I've rambled, I essentially would like to know three things if at all possible, no, four - I'm getting cocky now:
<Hey- nothing wrong with that! LOL>
1. I'm set on a Remora fractionator but will leave this decision in your capable hands - The Remora kills my budget at $385 AU and I'm waiting to hear what the pre-filter box will add to that. Do I a) get the Remora and pre-filter box from the outset or b) get the Remora Pro ($460!) excluding pre-filter box until a later date? Fortunately they both come with Maxi-jets =)
<Well, in  perfect world (meaning unlimited budget!), I'd go for the Remora Pro with a prefilter box. To be quite honest, any of the Remora series will do the job very well! They are great skimmers! See how easy it is for me to spend YOUR money!>
2. I'm about to order a couple of books I've seen recommended here ("The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" & "The New Marine Aquarium") but would like an idea before they get here if a 36watt, 7100k compact fluorescent will support the live rock and beneficial algae?
<In a relatively shallow tank like yours, they will do a great job for many of the less demanding corals.>
This light blows my 3x30watters in my 3' S. American tank away.
<I really like compact fluorescents, myself- they pack quite  punch!>
I'll be getting an actinic tube/fitting prior to start up, too.
3. What the bloody hell do I do with the Eheim?
<Hmm...Well- it's a great mechanical filter...I'm just partial to biological filtration. It would make a fine supplemental filter as needed, or you can use it for your quarantine tank!>
4. Should the authors of books that impress upon their readers that it's ok to keep creatures from reefs that will likely die regardless of your efforts and best intentions be thoroughly beaten with said carcass or smelly shoes? I guess I'm referring to a couple of 'cheesy' books I have laying about.
<Yeah! I can think of some other suitable punishments, too! There are a lot of people out there that consider it "successful" if they can keep their Moorish Idol or Flame Scallop for 6 months...Frankly, that's not success in my book. It's one thing to be experimental, another to be irresponsible! And, unfortunately, we all make mistakes. However, we need to vote with our dollars and NOT purchase animals that do not have good captive track records. It's the only way that those who continue to collect these animals will get the message!>
Thanks so much for your time and effort and any help you can provide as I'd be a little lost otherwise, purchasing the wrong literature, attempting to drill sump holes in 10mm glass with a needle vice and so on. So now I'm off to, well, PLEAD with the other half... Best regards,  Kendal McGuire.
<Any time, Kendal! Be sure to wear some sort of knee pads for protection while pleading! They really work well! Take care! regards, Scott F>

Starting A Reef Without Ending A Marriage! (Pt. 2)
Dear Scott.
<Hello, Again!>
Again I'd like to thank you for all your advice, comments (funny!) and suggestions (such as the knee pads when pleading, you sound like you have a worn pair?).
<Elbow pads are a good investment, too! LOL>
I especially liked your views toward the end of the email, "...Frankly, that's not success in my book." here here!  I won't take up (as) much of your time as I've taken too much already, but... I was only planning on using a 40L (10.5gal)  tank for quarantine placed under the main tank. Your suggestion to perhaps use the Eheim on the quarantine tank made me wonder if this'd be to small for the task (the tank, not the filter).  The other alternative, that'd I'd rather not use if possible, is a 70L (18.5gal). Either way the quarantine tank will be filtered by an AquaClear 201 p/head with the [Hagen] filter attachment which has kept my lovely little L. tretocephalus looking spiffy for a few months now and he's about the same size as the largest fish that'd be in the Q tank (4").
<Either of those arrangements would be fine, IMO. As touched on briefly, you can always use it on an occasional basis to "polish" the water. My only real gripe about mechanical filtration in marine systems is that we tend to neglect the regular maintenance (i.e. changing media/cleaning the filter sleeves), and nitrate and phosphate start to accumulate, and water quality begins to decline....>
My question today is will the above setup suffice? - with a length of copper piping for cover of course... oops, PVC piping ;)
<Ahh- ya' had me there, just for a second! Sure, the setup sounds great. Remember, a quarantine tank is not a permanent feature. You simply set it up when you need it, and break it down when not in use. The media can be kept in the display tank's sump when not in use, to continuously "recruit" new beneficial bacteria, so that it's always ready to go when those impulse purchases happen (they NEVER do, right? LOL>
I'd like to be able to offer more than a mere 'thank you' (docket # 2,724,890) but that's about the best I can do. Thank you =)
<Much more than necessary, my friend. We're thrilled to be here to learn and share together!>
A BIG thumbs up to Jason Kim of AquaC, inc. in the US and also to the friendly folks at http://www.reefonline.com.au/ who stock the AquaC line of products here in Oz.
<Glad to hear that you're locating some great people on line to help you out in your adventure! Best of luck to you- keep in touch! Regards, Scott F>

Reef Lighting without Direction - 8/21/03
Hello!
<howdy>
Wish to get a little advice.  I'm installing a 96x30x30 reef system (5" - 6" DSB, 75 gal. sump, 30 gal. refugium, and AquaC EV-400 skimmer) and have some questions about the lighting.  I'm using some equipment I have on hand from an old (and smaller) system that includes two 175W MH with Ice-Cap ballasts and 440W of fluorescents on an Ice-Cap 660 ballast.  I'm building a fixture to hold the two halides with the bulbs positioned next to each other but facing opposite directions.  
<most halides give a better spread if mounted horizontal (as it sounds like you intend) but perpendicular to the long sides of the tank (contrary to your intent). These MH lamps should also be set at 6-9" off surface of the water while the fluorescents are to be mounted no higher than 3" off the surface of the water for effectiveness>
My intent with a tank this large is to position the halides over the center of the tank to display SPS and clams and put fluorescents at each end (VHO, PC, or combination there of) for a varied; and hopefully more visually interesting, light scheme.  My question is, if not keeping SPS or clams at the ends of the tank how much (fluorescent) light should I use?  Would 220W at each end (keeping in mind I'll have 2x175W halide in the center) be sufficient for a low reef structure with various LPS and soft corals? Many Thanks!  Eric
<the question is so open ended without knowing what species are being kept (other than "non-SPS" or clams) that it is impossible to answer other than the fact that there are surely some low light corals that will survive there. The lighting overall is on the low-medium end of the spectrum. Do make your list of desired corals and discover their lighting needs first... please don't pick the lights before the animals, mate. Literally make a species list and hopefully you won't be tempted to make a typical garden reef tank with unnatural combinations (SPS, clams, LPS and soft coral all together). Poor long-term prospects for success... read more about the reasons why in the WWM archives by doing a google site search for "garden reef aquarium" and "allelopathy" for starters. Best regards, Anthony>

One Tank - Two Owners - Many Directions!
Dearest crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight>
First, I want to say thanks for recommending I remove a dying serpent star (while I was babysitting for my husband’s new-ish reef tank). The tank only had a minor ammonia spike and nothing else died in the process.
<Thank goodness for that...>
I still don’t know exactly what the set-up is but will share what I know:
* 150gal. 6ftLx26”Hx20”D approx.
* Excalibur Protein skimmer (runs all the time)
* Two pumps for reverse water flow…moderate + flow
* VHO lighting, two blue, two white on 12 hours/day (don’t know wattage and can’t read it, but supposedly an 8 rating and it is bright)
* 140LB live rock not Fiji, more porous, except for one coral skeleton (came with our used tank and the damsel loves it)
* Live sand from 6” in front to 4” in back (I think)
* RO water filtering system- tastes way better than tap!
* A/N/N= 0
* Hydrometer reading says 1.024.5
*pH 8.4(?)
* Temperature is never below 78 and never above 82 (mostly right at 80)
We are adding Kalkwasser daily (Mrs. Wages Pickling Lime).  Did a recent 10% water change- 1X/month
<I'm the water change junkie here- I like 5% twice a week- Tropic Marin LOVES me! LOL>
Livestock:
* Soft coral frags-happily multiplying
* Xenia- really happy and my personal fave.
* Typical cleanup crew with probably 30 turbo snails, 1 Tigertail sea cucumber (I know, I know), some blue legs, 1 sally lightfoot, 2 emerald crabs
* One brittle starfish
* One yellow tail damsel
* 15 temporary molly millers (if we can catch them)
Four days ago we added a mated pair of tomato clowns with their host BTA. More on that later.  Now, can I vent a bit? This tank is my husband’s to do with as he wishes, but after I’ve been reading various materials from your site he and I are at odds. The aquarium “pro” he works with uses fish, etc. to cycle the tanks faster.
<A traditional technique- but I don't think that it's necessary>
Right now we have about 15 molly millers (we live near Pensacola and they caught them in the Gulf) because the green hairline (?) algae was getting ridiculous. In disgust, I have just ordered a book on algae. Those little beasts have knocked over soft corals and turbo snails. They steal food from my brittle and the BTA, not to mention their attraction to flake food. If they would eat the brown algae maybe… but as it is… I do not like them Sam-I-Am!
<Yep- most of the blennies touted as "algae controllers" are highly overrated for that purpose, IMO! I love blennies and gobies- but I wouldn't rely on them as algae control>
I have only just begun on the venting thing…sorry…we do not have a QT. The female tomato cl. looks like she may have ich (small white bumps along her right gill, a couple on her right side, and something(s) on her tail fin. She is not acting “itchy” and is eating normally. The aquarium shop guy says “N-o-O-O-o-o” to ich.
<If it looks like ich...>
Since she won’t pose for me, I have yet to get a good enough photo. I have read all kinds of stuff, mostly from your site, and I still think it is ich. Meanwhile, if I am right, my, oops, :-), my husband’s tank could be in trouble.
<It can be...Ich is a very contagious illness, and immediate attention is required to knock it out...Go with your instincts here...>
On to the BTA. I guess it is a green or green tipped anemone. The base is brown, or should I say, was? It drifted the second night (while my husband was gone…the only time anything goes wrong). It ended up in the overflow tube strainer. I took the whole strainer out and put it on the bottom where he immediately started trying to extricate himself (ah, still alive, what a relief!). We ended up cutting the strainer apart (and then gluing back together of course…it was Sunday!).
<A pain in the you-know-what, but worth the effort..>
It was very pale (although the green was still easy to see). After the clowns found it and wallowed awhile, I noticed its mouth was open, so I fed it (food-6mm, right?). I was surprised that it ate after all the trauma (but it closed up a bit like I would expect and the food was gone before the MM knew what happened). Anyway it has found a rocky crevasse and seems to be recovering. My question is (finally a question)…is it too far from the lights at about 20” away? How often should I feed it, and what, based on its harrowing brush with death? I would rather keep it than nearly any animal in the tank and am willing to work at it.
<Let the animal move to the area that it wants...As far as the light that you have being suitable for this animal...Hard to say- depends a lot on positioning...I prefer halides for anemones...The more light the better...>
Now, for the fun stuff…stocking the tank. When I last wrote you, you said the crew would be happy to help us figure that out. I do not trust my husband’s fishy friend at the aquarium shop for this although he is knowledgeable. I just think he is careless. We are not adding anything until we figure out what’s up with the clown and get a QT (‘cause I said so).
<Good for you! Be patient! Get the fish (all of 'em) out and into a separate tank for observation and/or treatment...Let the main tank run without fishes for about a month...It works>
But when the time comes we mostly want more corals. I like the leathers and mushrooms. We have dedicated one end of the tank (thankfully the opposite of where the BTA is currently). My husband likes hard corals like Acropora.
<I think it's a guy thing? LOL. Well, mixing SPS and softies is common, but not particularly advisable. Soft corals give off many noxious substances that can inhibit the growth of SPS corals...Lots of folks do it- but it's not the best way, IMO...SPS or softies...Make the decision!>
As for fish, we aren’t sure. The clowns and the yellow tail are done bickering for now, although I still blush at the colorful metaphors the yellow tail was using. Unbelievably, the BTA has, for now, selected a spot under the yellow tail’s territory. Anyway, I digress… Wish list, Some kind of cleaner fish (what kind and how many?)
<Maybe 3-4 neon gobies>
A dwarf angel- maybe a coral beauty or a flame?
<A roll of the dice with corals...I'd go for the Coral Beauty, myself>
My husband wants two tangs- a blue hippo and a yellow sailfin of some sort-I don’t think I want any tangs, convince me otherwise.
<Tangs are great fish- and the Sailfin is one of my favorites of all- but it gets to be 15 inches! The Blue needs lots of space, too. I'd go with just one for long term maintenance, probably the Blue>
I would rather have several schooling fish if possible with the current damsel situation
<Well, that's a toughie, if the damsels are aggressive...Maybe a group of Chromis?>
We haven’t any shrimp and would like them too.
<Plenty of good ones to choose from...Check the WWM site for recommended selections>
Other than that, we haven’t a clue, as they are all pretty, yadda, yadda, yadda… Also, what order would you put fish, critters in the tank?
<I'd go with the most passive fish first, then move on to the more aggressive ones...Consider adult sizes of the fishes, their interactions with the other life forms (i.e.; your corals!), and their husbandry requirements>
Wow, is this long! I am so sorry, especially about the venting, but I do feel better. If you are still reading this mess, THANKS!  Crystal
<Hey Crystal! Venting is good! It's important that you and your spouse reach a consensus as to the direction that your tank will take (anemones, SPS, softies, LPS, etc.). I like "garden (mixed) tanks, but I think that it's important to be focused, and make a decision that is best for your animals...Research the options, your desires- and act accordingly! Write us again any time! Regards, Scott F>

- New Aquarist Confusion! Ahhh! -
Well... I recently started a saltwater aquarium, and unfortunately I have been fed so many conflicting opinions that I currently don't know up from down. 
<Hehe, unfortunately that happens sometimes> 
I was hoping someone could walk me through the proper way to maintain my tank.  I have already been through 2 different types of filters, two different skimmers, a UV sterilizer, and now I am told I should have a sump instead.  Ack! 
<I suppose I should start out by saying that there is really no one way to go about it...>
My goal:  I currently live in an apartment and am looking to purchase a house within the next 2 years, so I was told that it would be fine to start with a 30 gal tank and move up to a 75 when I finally make the move.  Now I am told that a 30 gal was much too small  to try  and I should have started at with at least 40 gal.
<That's splitting hairs. Although tanks larger than 30g will be much more stable and forgiving of water quality woes, you can absolutely be successful your first time around w/ a 30>  
Well, that damage already being done....can someone give me tips on the proper way to maintain a standard 30 gal long tank?
<Let's see whatcha got...>  
I currently have and Eheim Ecco canister filter, a Seaclone venturi skimmer, a 9 watt UV sterilizer (do not have turned on, was told to use after an unmanageable green algae bloom in the 3rd week after I started the tank...
<Hmmm...>) 
.. and lighting is the Corallife 36" 96 watt 50/50 compact fluorescent  (10,000K daylight and 50% actinic 03 blue)  That is all the equipment I have and was told that I would need for a small reef tank.  ( I have recently been told that the canister was unnecessary. ...and Ebo-Jager heater. 
<For starters, you definitely need a heater unless you keep the room at a constant 78-81 degrees! The canister filter is unnecessary provided you have ample live rock in the tank. The protein skimmer was a good idea, but the reasoning for the UV is off. It seems you have been guaranteed an algae problem, and unless it's green water, that sterilizer won't do a thing. Do check out the following link: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm for the ins and outs of preventing problem algae growth. In your case it will pretty much boil down to purifying your incoming water and limiting other incoming nutrients.>
In the tank I have 30lbs cured live rock, and 40lbs of live sand, a green Chromis, yellow tail damsel, painted parrot wrasse, and scooter blenny. Inverts I have 2 emerald crabs, 10 red legged hermits, a serpent star, and a feather duster.  Corals I have a pulsing xenia, green mushroom, fox, and Goniopora (yes, I know, found out after it was given to me by a friend).....
<In the near future, I would suggest adding an additional 96w power compact to this setup to keep these corals happy long term>
Water is at 78 F..
salinity 1.023
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 5
calcium 450
ph 8.2-8.3
supplements = c-balance & sea elements by Julian sprung = 1x per week <Since you're adding a calcium and alk product, you should test your alkalinity (aka carbonate hardness) and determine whether or not it is at an acceptable level.>
coral food = Bioplankton = 1 drop every other day
light on 12 am- 12 pm
new salt water = tap treated w/ Seachem dechlorinator, Kent salt mix, ph 8.2 
<I would suggest purifying your tap water by reverse osmosis or deionization (preferably both!) means. Check out: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm>
mix = 10% change 1x every other week, was not enough so now once a week....
I would really like to maintain a healthy 30 gal reef until I move into a larger place....is there any equipment I should change...things I don't have that I need....water parameters I should fix/ look to maintain......any suggestions?  
<I would suggest doubling the lighting, removing all but the activated carbon from the canister filter (and then only use monthly for a week), and working on getting a water purification unit. You may also want to perform a phosphate check and until the incoming nutrients have ceased and the stuff is out of the tank, you may need to run phosphate removing resin.> 
I have been given a hodge-podge of info between two reef keepers and the "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" book and was hoping for one straight answer.....
<Hah! You'll never get a strait answer in this hobby! Good luck! -Kevin>

Fish to Get
Hey crew, 
<Yo, Kevin here>
I recently was looking into sharks but, I realized that since I am a teen, I could only afford a smaller one. I was gonna get one but after I added up the cost with a chiller, I couldn't afford one (someday). 
<I hear ya, you need an enormous system for sharks> 
Well now I am looking into a custom installation (dimensions of around 46x24x32). 
<Whoa, guess money isn't that tight!> 
I would love to own a beautiful reef aquarium with some live rock. If you would be so kind as to e-mail me back some suggestions of some stunning, breath-taking fish, it would be greatly appreciated. Keep in mind I have a limited budget... 
<You bet you will after having a custom ~120g tank built and set up properly!!!>  
...and I would like 2-4 medium-large size fish, maybe more. 
<Keep in mind that this tank is only about 4' long, a bit short for large fish. You would be much better off with a 6' aquarium that is much shallower, for the both the fish and your lighting budget (you will need very powerful lighting to penetrate a 32" deep tank, we don't really recommend much over 24" if you can avoid it). I would suggest that you pick up Bob's book, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist and Scott Michael's little paperback, Pocket Expert Guide to Marine Fishes. They will give you in depth guidance to what size tank these fish will require. That said, in this tank as it stands, I'd recommend at most 2 nice tangs (with different body shapes and color, for example a purple tang and a hippo/regal tang) as your show fish. Pick out a nice Centropyge angel if you're willing to risk a little coral munching, and there are far too many nice gobies, wrasses, and Anthias to even begin to describe. Peruse through the aforementioned books and WetWebMedia's vast array of marine fish articles and develop a potential stocking list for this tank and hit us back with it for comment. Good luck! -Kevin>
Thanks a million in advance!  six month reader, Ryan

A New Way of Thinking
<Hello! Ryan with you today>
Hi, Thanks in advance for your help. 
<Whoa! Prepaid compliments ;) >
Short history of tank:
45 gals
75lbs live rock
20 lbs live sand
2 powerheads 201 & 301
Tank's been up for 2 1/2months, after 7 weeks added 1 Hippo tang, 2 feather dusters, star polyp, 10 hermit crabs, (a sally light foot crab was in the live rock). 1 week later added a clown , 9th week added spaghetti coral, 10th green hammer; all livestock doing fine, water chemistry good. 
<Any tang is seriously oversized for your tank, I'm afraid.  Everything else seems in order.>
When I purchased the tank the LFS sold me a Amiracle SL-5 hang on filter, after researching your web- site I now know that external bio filtration is not necessary with my set-up, also the bio- balls can raise the nitrates in the tank. 
<Yes> 
Is it possible or beneficial to remove the bio balls and replace them with some small pieces of live rock? 
<Yes, but very slowly to avoid drastic change.  Remove 1 bioball per day out of this size filter.> 
I am just learning so if this is a dumb question I apologize. Would this be like setting up a small sump?   Thanks,  Randy
<Yes, a place to process your water.  May be able to stick your heaters, thermometer in there and get them out of the main display.  Letting the live rock do the work for you is much more enjoyable!  Good Luck! Ryan>

A New Way of Thinking pt. 2
Ryan, Thanks for the quick response. 
<Surely!>
Ok so I remove 1 bio- ball per day, at what point do I start adding the live rock to the filter? <As soon as it's empty is fine.  There's enough in your tank that it's not dire.>  
I notice there is a small separate compartment below where the bio-balls are, it houses one of the pumps for the SL-5, can I add live sand to the bottom compartment? 
<Will wear down your equipment, could present problems.  Don't open that can of worms.  If you want to run a remote sandbed, a 20gallon refugium with a DSB would be much more helpful.>  
Would the sand interfere with the pump? 
<See above.> 
Also can I add some macro algae with the live sand? 
<Yes, but not in the Hang-on Wet Dry> 
I know it's a small space but will it help my reef tank?    Trying to learn, Randy
<Just stick some live rock in, let it work!  Here are some articles that may be helpful:
http://wetwebmedia.com/livesand.htm - http://wetwebmedia.com/liverock1.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/lrh2oqualfaqs.htm  <Aren't we all?  Best of luck! Ryan>

- 210g Walk-Around Tank -
WWM Crew,
Your site is awesome. I have turned to your FAQ’s and articles many times for help with my existing tank. 
<Great, I hope it serves you well in the future.> 
I recently purchased a used 2002 Oceanic all-glass tank. It is a 215 gal show tank (72½ x 24½ x 28¾).  It is my intention to modify this tank so it can be setup in the center on my basement den. I want to be able to walk around the tank and minimize any exposed plumbing or devices hanging on it.  I have experience with saltwater aquariums and currently have a 55 gal LR reef tank in my den that is setup to display through a wall. All the equipment, filters, skimmer and UV sterilizer are behind the tank in a utility room. What I notice every feeding time is how much activity goes on “behind” the live rock. That is why I want a “walk around” tank. 
<They can be very beautiful and are few and far between for home aquariums!>  
I want to setup the 215 tank with a large amount of live rock (~250 lbs) and a 5 inch live sand bed. 
<Excellent> 
I am thinking about using a 55 gal tank to build a DIY sump and place under the show tank inside the stand. I was also looking into building a custom lighting hood suspended from the ceiling. VHO and halide combination. Here are some of the questions I have:
1. What are my options for modifying the tank and plumbing up the sump?
<Well, you could have a glass shop (or even you) drill the tank with for a few bulkheads to drain into the sump. Unfortunately the bottom of the tank is tempered glass, making drilling very dangerous for the glass. A really easy way to do it would be to buy two hang-on overflow boxes to feed the sump. You could drill the cabinet to accept the drain pipe and only see the boxes and a short length of tubing.>
2. Would a protein skimmer still be required?
<IMO, yes. A Precision Marine bullet 2 would fit quite nicely in there. As would an AquaC EV-240.>
3. What type and size of circulating pump do you recommend?
<This is going to be overflow dependant. Check maximum flow ratings for the overflow style you choose and pick a pump based on that.>
4. What do you recommend for lighting? Does the 5 watt per gallon rule of thumb apply?
<IMO, the watts per gallon rule never applies because it does not take into account tank depth and types of lighting. If you care to make this a reef aquarium, I would suggest at least a trio of 250w metal halide lamps because of the depth (even with the sand bed). I would also supplement these with a few VHO actinics for good color.>
5. Would a couple of 250watt heaters placed in the sump suffice to heat the tank above?
<Absolutely, it's all the same water. Although this is dependant on how cold/warm the room is, you may need around 4 watts per gallon (now here's a rule that actually works!). I'd suggest using a few smaller heaters to get the job done instead of one or two massive ones for safety reasons.>
6. With this walk around setup, won’t this allow me to have more corals by utilizing both sides of my “mini reef”?
<Absolutely, and I'm sure it will be stunning!>
Any other do's and don'ts you might suggest would also be appreciated.  Bob
<Ahh, my friend, far too many to list! But do read as much as you can and hit us up with questions so this tank turns out spectacular. Good luck! -Kevin>

Setting Up a 40 Gallon Reef Tank - 8/13/03
Hi,  After selling my 75 gallon saltwater set-up, I'm thinking about going with a small 40 gallon reef set-up and am thinking about circulation, skimming options. 
<OK> 
I'm thinking about not going with a sump, but maybe just using my old Emperor 400 rated at 400 GPH to handle water turnover (I could use a filter pad with carbon on the other side for filtration). 
<Don't see why not. Likely though, the GPH rating will not be as accurate as you might think. Either way, you could use this in conjunction with powerheads and the like. Of course, this always depends on what your future inhabitants environmental requirements are>  
Is using carbon OK for reef tanks? 
<Absolutely! For lots of reasons. Have you looked through our site recently? Check out some of the articles and FAQs like this one: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm> 
Should I even use the bio-wheels, or just run it without them? 
<They can become sort of a nitrate trap. Many thoughts and theories on this, but I believe with adequate live rock you can do away with them.>  
I was also thinking about a canister filter rated at 300-400 GPH. 
< No need for any biological if you are using live rock, because again, they can become a nitrate trap. No sponges or other mechanical filtration as it will likely clog up. There might be a need to open the canister everyday to rinse the media.>
If I go with a sump, I would get a smaller siphon box unit that I've had great success with my 75 gallon (LifeReef makes a great siphon overflow box that NEVER lost its siphon despite occasional power outages). <Nice>  The only thing I didn't like about my sump in my 75 gallon was my evaporation because I had two Mag 9's submersed.  I just don't know if I want to go with a sump for a 40 gallon if hang-on stuff will do the job (though it would be nice to hide the heaters). Do they make hang-on sumps? 
<I have seen AMiracle Wet/Dry-Sumps around, but I have no idea how efficient they are. Do a search in google for "hang on sumps" see what comes up and check on our message boards for some reviews. Maybe there is a company that will custom make one for you.>  
Good idea or not? 
<Could be. Maybe a new market to explore>
Any suggestions for a good, compact protein skimmer for a 40 gallon reef? 
<Many...... I like the CPR products and I really like the AquaC line!>  
What kind of GPH should I be looking at for a 40 gallon skimmer? 
<See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/toskimornotfaq.htm Everything you could ever want to know about skimmers>
Also, I'm concerned about lighting.  150 watts?  200? 
<Depends on what your future inhabitants are and how deep the tank is. We are more concerned with PAR (photosynthetic Active Radiation? penetration which I believe most power compacts and metal halides address very well. Metal halides in this instance might be a bit much due to the excess heat. Check this out: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Anyway, you've always been such great help in the past, I thought I'd go to the best for advice! 
<Thanks for coming. Be sure to read through the FAQs and links above.>  
Keep up the great work! Mike
<We will. Let us know how it all goes. -Paul>

- Fish Only to Reef -
WWM Crew,
I have a few questions I would like to ask, as I haven't been able to find the answers in your website. You've always been so helpful in the past. :-) 
<Hopefully helpful again, but no promises ;) >
I have a 30 G glass salt FO w/no live rock currently established with a 3 damsels and a Sergeant Major. I'm interested in converting this tank into a reef tank. It's been established for a year, constant temp at 82, weekly water changes / testing. The tank is using the Eclipse system as its only filtration, w/two 18-watt lights (50/50 & blue). I know that I need to add additional pumps to get more current in the tank. No protein skimmer can be placed on this tank because of the Eclipse system (I know the importance of these as I also have an established 180 G tank).
<Well, with some cutting and squeezing, you can fit a cheesy sea-clone. Better than nothing if you are dead set on keeping that eclipse hood.>
Is it realistically possible to support a thriving reef tank with this setup? Or will I be fighting a "losing battle", by constantly killing my sea life because my conditions won't support it? I'm asking this as I don't want to start this endeavor if I'm doomed to futility. :-))
<Hehe, well, it's not quite that dramatic. I'd suggest removing the eclipse hood in favor of more appropriate lighting (power compacts come to mind) and a decent skimmer (Precision Marine hot-1 or AquaC remora). You'll also want to establish a live sand bed and live rock. Pick up Anthony and Bob's new book Reef Invertebrates, check out the gazillions of FAQ's and articles here on WetWebMedia, and feel free to hit us up with questions along the way. Good luck! -Kevin>
Sincerely,  Craig

Movin' On Up! (Larger Tank)
Hey crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight!>
For a year I've been promising Bob and everyone else I was about to move my 20 gallon nano (he referred to it as "a prison for fish" in an old e-mail) into a larger tank (90 gallons) and I'm now doing it.
<Sweet! Glad to hear that!>
I have a few questions about the process and had a difficult time finding stuff on this particular situation among your FAQs (do you have search suggestions? Did I miss them?)
<Well, we do receive a lot of questions on the process of "moving on up" to a larger tank, but let's see if I c an answer some of your questions>
The 20 has all LPS-- a frogspawn, a bubble, a Galaxea, an Alveopora, and a Blastomussa (sp?).  All have been in this tank for at least a year, the frogspawn and the bubble for over two years (they've finally grown large enough so that they're about to start stinging each other, hence the move).
<Yep- they simply cannot coexist on a long-term basis in such a small water volume...>
The same three fish have been in for at least a year as well: a twelve-line wrasse, a flame angel and a C. cyanea damsel (the last two for two years).
<Glad that they're moving on up to larger quarters>
The tank has poor filtration (prism skimmer and penguin mini back filter) and 25 lbs live rock plus a shallow sand bed. I do water changes religiously to compensate-- about 4 gallons twice a week-- and the water quality tests well  (ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 0-5, salinity 1.023, ph 8.0-8.3).
<An acceptable course of action, under the circumstances>
I naturally dump enormous amounts of calcium in (using B-ionic) and it stays consistently at about 350, which is the best I can do in this tiny little system.  I have had absolutely no fish health problems for a year or so (when the twelve line replaced a fish that jumped) and the corals grow steadily at a medium pace as evidenced by their skeleton growth (the tank gets 72w PC light and is about 18 inches tall).
I'm moving the residents into a 90 gallon w/sump Berlin-style system with comparable lighting and better filtration (the skimmer will be an improvement the rest seems comparable). I may include a small a refugium (using the lighting from the old tank) but it depends on $-- it may get added at a later date.
<Sounds like you're on the right track!>
I'm in the process of using my old quarantine tank to cure an additional 40 lbs of live rock (with three powerheads and a skimmer)  for the new system and will be setting it up once this is done.   
What I'm wondering is this:  My current plan is to simply move the residents of the old system into the new one once it has stabilized.  Should I or must I quarantine the fish and add them individually, etc.?
<I don't think that quarantine would be necessary in this situation, unless you're adding new animals. Moving the existing fish should be done gradually, however, to enable the new tank's biofiltration capability time to adjust to an increasing load>
It shouldn't be difficult for me to match the parameters of the two systems for the move, since the small tank is so easy to manipulate.  The two tanks are in the same room as well. Is there much threat of problems stemming from this kind of transfer?  How much of a cycling process can I expect following such a move?  
<The main threat to the fishes is stress caused by dramatically different environmental parameters between the old and new tanks. Sounds like you'll be able to match them well. The other possible problem is rushing things (i.e. adding too many animals at once and seeing an ammonia or nitrite spike as a result). I'd take it slow, and monitor water chemistry carefully>
Any other advice or suggestions where among your FAQs I could find info? Deeply appreciated,  Derek Milne
<Well Derek, I'd do a search using the Google search feature looking for information on "Moving Tanks" or "Cycling New Tanks"- related topics may offer some additional information for you...Enjoy the search, and good luck with the new system! Regards, Scott F>

The Plan Thus Far...
<Morning! Ryan with you>
You all are an aquarium keepers best friend. <Hey, thanks!>  Not to mention the wealth of knowledge available on your site is unsurpassed on the web.  All your help in the past has been immeasurable and after 11 months of research and reading, I'm ALMOST ready to begin this endeavor. This is the plan so far for a fish/invert tank, eventually migrating to a full reef.  Please let me know if there any flies in the soup. <Certainly>
75G glass tank
29G sump
45lbs Fiji LR, 36lbs Lalo LR, 25lbs Caribbean LR - Uncured to preserve the biodiversity 
<Very nice>
~5" CaribSea Aragonite (1-1.7mm) DSB
Aqua C EV240 w/ Mag 12 pump (investment for a larger aquarium in the future)
Mag 24 return pump - should give 15-20x turnover depending on the final head pressure
2 titanium 200W heaters
2 MH fixtures with 175W 10K bulbs
2 VHO lamps (actinic blue)
I believe I listed all the major components, but please let me know if I have left a major necessity off the list.
<Considered building a frame for your live rock?  Perhaps I'm paranoid because I live in San Francisco!>
He is my planned fish/invert list (corals to come later).  Could you please let me know if you see any problems with these choices, be it amount or compatibility? <OK>
Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto)
Bicolor Dottyback (Pseudochromis paccagnellae)
Blue devil Damsel (Chrysiptera cyanea) <Could be too feisty>
Firefish, Purple (Nemateleotris decora)
Red Velvet Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubrisquamis)
??? Yellow Hawaiian Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)
Peppermint Shrimp x2 (Lysmata wurdemanni)
Blue Linckia Sea Star (Linckia laevigata)
Blood Red Fire Shrimp (Lysmata debelius)
Standard cleanup crew
Any feedback or suggested changes would be greatly appreciated.
<Looks good, well planned.>
Off the subject, I read that you all are looking for help with the website? Particularly the daily FAQs.  Well I know I'm not knowledgeable or experienced enough to help answer questions, but I believe I could be of assistance in organizing the daily into categories to free up the time of the crew to answer questions.  Just a thought.  Let me know.
<I will forward your interest along! Best of luck in your new setup-Ryan>
Thanks again for everything, Jeremy

Reef Lighting
Hey,
I got another question for you.  I have 60 gallon hex tank(28"deep), and right now I have a Coralife quad pc light.  The light has 96 watts 2 10k and 2 03 actinic.  I also have a double tube fixture with one 20k and 1 03 actinic light for a grand total of 126 watts.  Would it be better to take the double tube fixture and lights back (they haven't been used and my buddy owns the LFS) and get another quad bulb.  Financially it would cost another $65 if I took back the other lights and fixture  and got the quad light.  I think I mine as well for $65 so I won't limited to only low light corals.  What do you think, can I get away with 126 watts or should I just spend the $65 and jump up to 192 watts????
<The lighting you need is dependent on the life forms you want to keep in the tank. With 192W over 28" of water, low light need animals for the bottom middle of the tank and maybe some medium need animals at the top. Hope this helps, Don>
Thanks

Future setup and livestock acquisition
Love the site, visit often
My current setup, running now for 18 months, includes:
75 gallon not so reef ready tank (using both of the holes for drainage and bring return lines over back of tank) FOWLR
Four - 48" URI Actinic-White VHOs (egg crate cover)
~50 lbs of live rock, want/need more
1 inch medium/large size broken shell substrate
20 gallon long sump with Turboflotor and two Rio 2500 for returns, activated carbon
inhabitants: 2" tomato clown, 2" flame hawk, 2" blue devil, my mimic tang passed...still miss that guy, half a dozen snails (Astrea I think) and half a dozen hermits
after reading the FAQs have decided to make a few changes
I would eventually like to have a reef style tank, soft corals, more inverts, etc. , notoriously hardy corals that is.  don't plan on getting into SPS, since I want to avoid having to purchase metal halide.  
one I want a bigger display tank...90 [48X18X24] or 110 high [48X18X29] (want same footprint to use existing stand and canopy)
unless you advise otherwise I plan on having a deep sand bed likely 5-6" of fine oolithic sand (Southdown if I can ever find it) in the display tank.
plan on purchasing a glass tank again, as I want to avoid scratches.  I will not purchase a predrilled tank but instead have it drilled locally for larger bulkheads for throughput, considering  2" bulkheads.
will likely increase sump size to allow for refugium/remote plenum/Caulerpa
plan on purchasing an Iwaki or two for returns considering two WMD 30 RXLT to replace Rios (heard the 40's are loud and two 30's are apparently more energy efficient than a 70) the American made are much less expensive than the Japanese counterparts...but I will certainly entertain any argument for the later.  considering one pump for return and one for closed loop (that is once I figure exactly how that should be set up)
when I change bulbs I will likely get two URI actinics and two URI Aquasuns. separating the actinic from the daylight bulbs as I am told actinics need replacing more frequently than the daylights.
long awaited questions
1.    Should I go with American or Japanese Iwaki's)?
<Have had nothing but good experiences with both, so from my point of view, whichever suits your fancy>
2.    Two 30's or one 70?
<A closed loop is a great idea for a reef tank, and a 30 will work well, however, another thirty is not much output to run life support, such as an adequate protein skimmer.>
3.    With a 6 inch sandbed and VHOs in mind  - should I go with the 90 [3/8 inch glass - less volume but more visual clarity and light penetration to tank bottom] or the 110 high [1/2 inch glass - more green tinted and less light penetration but more volume and viewing area]?
<It sounds like your own personal preferences will be the best answer to this question in the end, either one will do just fine functionally>
4.    Someone locally is getting out of the hobby selling their inhabitants for what appears to be a reasonable price compared to store bought specimens, and they have corals, live rock, shrimp and fish BUT the liverock has some huge Aiptasia (call Guinness). Is it worth messing with to quarantine all the live rock/corals/fish and critters to try to eradicate the pest Aiptasia (by injections, peppermint shrimp, etc.) or should I stay away from the deal altogether?
<Tough call here. It would depend on how many Aiptasia there are and how sweet a deal it is. Be forewarned: Aiptasia can mean a long and most often frustrating battle. If you decide to take that road, I would try peppermint shrimp as a first option>
5.    If quarantine is the answer, since the fish do not exhibit any problems [and according to seller have not had problems] then would it be foolish to transfer the corals, fish and shrimp to the display tank immediately after the appreciate dips and acclimation and keep the bulk of the liverock in quarantine to work on removing the Aiptasia OR quarantine everything together in a large Rubbermaid container with frequent water changes for a month? [only other quarantine tank I have is a ten gallon with hang on back filter]
<it depends, if you are using live rock as your primary biological filter, you may need all of it to support the bioload of the fish/critters>
6. Is it prudent to invest in a calcium reactor if I plan on keeping corals?
<I like CO2/calcium carbonate reactors, but they aren't a necessity in light of much less expensive options such as two part calcium chloride/buffer additions, or good old Kalkwasser. Benefits of reactors are the lack of user-induced error once set up and dialed in properly, as well as low operating cost (once the overhead of the reactor/CO2 system is invested, media and CO2 can go several months without refill).>
7.   Any other recommendations?
<keep up the good research!>
Thanks very much
<Best, Chris>

Water flow in Reef 7/3/03
Anthony - having the flow from the sump back to the tank, let's say 8 changes per hour and having the closed loop at 15 per hour, would this be a good way to go? What are your thoughts on this for a reef tank?    RGibson
<Sounds excellent my friend. Superb for vigorous growth in most corals and for keeping detritus in suspension for export. Anthony>

New reef set-up questions 6/25/03
Hello again Anthony!
<cheers, my friend>
In the meantime I have set up my tank. It is as follows:
- Tank capacity: 270 lit
- Sump: 70 lit (according to your design, thanks for the advice)
- Mechanical filtration: Drip-plate in sump with filter-sponge on it + the 2
pre-filters of the pumps.
- Thermostat: 1 Jager 200 W
- Remora skimmer in sump
- Primary circulation: EHEIM 1260 pump (in-sump)
- Extra circulation: EHEIM 1262 in closed loop (intake from the overflow and
return on the perimeter of the tank with tees)
- Lighting: GIESSEMAN system "ECO plus", one HQI 250 W and two 9W blue
fluorescent OSRAM Duluxe.
<very nice>
I have checked for leaks and made all necessary improvements with tap water. Now the tank is emptied and I do not fill it with salt water because I do not know yet how much time it  will take to buy the live rock. After a lot of reading it seems to me that the best way to start is to place the uncured live rock (sent in box and covered with wet newspapers) directly into the tank filled with sea water and let it cycle with no lights and good skimming. No water changes.
<I agree... but only if the tank is bare bottomed... never cure live rock in a tank full of sand... pests, predators and diseases while curing can find safe harbor there>
When cycle is done, then make a couple of water changes to reduce whatever harmful substances were produced during the curing -tank cycling and/or place some Poly-filter in the sump  for the same
reason. Is this ok?
<agreed... very fine>
Then add aragonite sand.
<ahhh... yes. You are quite correct my friend!>
The only brand I find in my LFS is Red Sea aragonite sand .It should be about 1-1.5 cm and has rounded shape. Its colour is
sub-yellow. It is sold in 5 kilo bags. I want to Make a DSB out of it of 10cm and place on top some live sand from a friend's reef to seed it but I am not sure he has enough critters I will need for my DSB.
<any little bit will be helpful>
I am now trying to find also a source of starting critters (copepods, amphipods, worms, serpent stars, etc. from the UK).
<Hmmm... do check the message boards for a private aquarist that can perhaps help you with a trade>
I am also thinking of taking some live sand from the ocean, near my house, and place it in a small aquarium with
good circulation and see what happens.
<yes... helpful>
After a month place it in my tank.
Can I do this or would it be too risky for my tank? If yes, what should I
watch for during the one-month-period?
My LFS brought the other day a box of live rock. They say it is from Indonesia. Though I have no experience of live rock yet, it seems to me that it is a relatively dense rock. The price it high.
<nice rock... but always expensive>
I am also  checking with European e-shops for live rock. Some of them have rock from Fiji. Is this more preferable?
<I think so>
A last question about DSB's. I am the first to make a DSB in my area and everybody tries to convince me not to do it. However I have made my choice,
<I agree with you... many benefits>
I just need some support from you and your site, which I read almost every day. So please help me prove them that I am not a crazy guy trying to do things that they laugh about! Now the question: The returns from the two pumps go with tees just below the water surface and perimetrically in the tank. Would it be a good idea in order to increase the water movement near
the DSB, to split the tubing with an extra tee on a corner and go down near the DSB surface ? (not so close that it will disturb the DSB).
<more important to have surface agitation and all around high water flow>
That's all for today! oh, I tried to check Amazon.co.uk for your new book. It is not there yet. Hope to find it soon. Regards,
Thanassis
<in about a month, you can order it from Tim Hayes in the UK at:
Midland Reefs
midlandreefs@inverts.demon.co.uk
Coral Farm & Dry goods
nr.Lichfield, Staffordshire, UK, ENGLAND
www.midlandreefs.co.uk
best regards! Anthony>

Responses to beginner reef setup - 7/29/03
"Me thinks the Copperband needs to go. First off, let me say that the Copperband is hard to sustain for a long period of time. Even with reefers with a bit of experience"
Actually, the man at the fish store said adding that fish would get rid of all the "bad" creatures living in the tank. It is eating Formula One but I will do my best to find it a new home. <Very glad to hear. In reality this fish has been known to take care of Aiptasia anemones/glass anemones, but I have not heard of much else. Glad to hear it is eating, but again, even though it is eating, this size tank is less than suitable. It's analogous to this: a 270 lbs 6'4 man can live in a 4 ft sq crate but not comfortably. Not a suitable environment and will stress the animal to its death for sure.
"Check out offerings at Marine Depot. I saw a deal on there for a Custom SeaLife hood with fan and two 40 watt PC bulbs 1 Actinic and the other a 10K (also comes with their Moonlite LED) for 121.00 bucks with shipping."
This might sound stupid, but can you please link me to that light. I'm assuming that that light will be able to allow all of the zoos to live, so I will purchase that immediately. <http://www.marinedepot.com/a_lt_pc_csl.asp?CartId=#pcml  grab the 2 40w as this size will fit a standard 10 gallon tank. This light will grow just about anything you want to put in this tank. I would recommend, though, that you either go soft or hard. It is just too difficult to mix the two types and have a healthy environment. Clams and SPS, Soft, or LPS. The reasoning is due to the allelopathic implications between these corals. Either via stinging, overgrowing, or straight poisoning of the tank. Just something to keep in mind. In any event, you can keep any of these corals from a light stand point. Just choose wisely and research your future inhabitants. I like an all zoanthid tank, though. Would just be gorgeous as they seem to come in every color in the spectrum. Something to think about. Check out www.garf.org. They have some of the most beautiful and hardy zoanthids out there. There is also Blane Perun's www.thesea.org>
"Be sure to have 2 smallish powerheads"
I have a Rio 50 in there, but I'm trying to figure out where to place it as it blows the sand all over the tank. <Add another 50 and place them both toward the top of the tank. Have one point facing the front of the tank and the other in either the opposite direction or intersecting the other stream. -Paul>
Thank you for all of your help--Mike

Getting Off To A Good Start!
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I am looking to set up a 180g tank as a Indo-Pacific biotope with a 55g sump.
<I like the sound of this already!>
Currently the 55g is my tank and it has a 15g sump.  I have about 75-100 lbs of live rock and 4 inches of live sand.  Right now it has some mushroom coral, 4 fish, and a cleaner shrimp.  The tank I am looking at getting is an Oceanic Reef Ready with two corner overflows.  I have several questions, since I want to make sure I set it up better than my current 55g.
<Always better to build on previous successes!>
1)You have mention Eheim pumps a lot.  Would you recommend 2 Eheim 1262 pumps to return water to the aquarium (one for each corner return), a Dolphin 3000 (splitting the return), or an Iwaki?
<If the overflows can handle it, go for the Dolphin...>
Or would any of these pumps be over kill?  From reading on the web I was under the impression that you would want 10x your volume turn over rate, that is why the 2 Eheim 1262 (900 gph).  Attached is a simple diagram of sump with two dividers.
<I like your plan, but 10 times tank volume could be considered a minimum target for serious reef purposes...It's not at all unreasonable to shoot for 20 turns an hour or more...>
2)Is the provide corner returns for the 180g tank enough circulation? I was afraid it wouldn’t be, even though each return would have at least 900gph coming out of it.  I had thought of having a different pump ( I currently have a Rio 3500 on my 55g) return water on a separate plumbing line to circulation water on the bottom of the tank.  I am trying to have good circulation, but keep power heads, etc. out of the main tank. See attached air flow diagram.
<I agree- I hate the look of powerheads and other equipment in the display tank. Perhaps you could investigate a "closed loop", or you could split the returns into oscillating devices, such as Sea Swirls (my personal favorites), placed towards the sides at opposite ends of the tank, and then maybe towards the center pointing at each other...lots of cool possibilities for chaotic water movement>
3)What is the best way to set up the sump? I thought of partitioning it off into 3 sections.  The two end sections would be where the water came from the main aquarium.  There would be a skimmer on each end or one skimmer connected to both ends with the water from the skimmer going to the middle section.
<I'd put the skimmer where it is best positioned to receive "raw", unprocessed water from the display.>
The middle section would have 4-6 inches of live sand, some live
rock (not sure how much), and maybe a sea cucumber (or something else) to clean the sand.  That section would also have the 2 Eheims (or what pumps you advise) and Rio for the water to return to the main tank.
<Not a bad plan...I'd use the DSB in the sump if you don't want one in the display tank- otherwise, I'd just use the compartment for some macroalgae, like Chaetomorpha or Gracilaria (light the section, of course), or carbon, etc.>
I had also thought about another pump or dividing one of the above mentioned pumps to send a reduced amount of water to a refugium that I would like to have above the tank, but that is another question.
<Not a bad thought>
4)I would like to have a refugium above the tank.  I was thinking of a 30g, but I don’t know if that would be a good size or a good idea.  What would you recommend as the best way to get water to it from the sump?  Add a different pump (I also have a Rio 1400 and 2500) or split one of the existing pumps.
<Personally, I'd figure out a way to split one of the existing returns...less energy, more simplicity!>
The refugium will house macro algae, copepods, etc. and
have two bulkheads drilled in the back for overflow to send rich, nutrient water to the main tank.  I had thought about having PVC pipe going from the overflows on the refugium going to the bottom of the main tank to provide circulation like what is shown in the air flow diagram.  What do you think? Would it be enough for circulation?  If it was it would eliminate a fourth
pump in the sump or split one.
<I'm afraid that you'll have to experiment with that one...There are a lot of ways to accomplish this. For ideas and inspiration, I have to steer you to Anthony's "Book of Coral Propagation" and the DIY website, ozreef.org . Both are excellent sources for these kinds of ideas!>
5)What protein skimmer would you recommend?
<I like Aqua C, Euro Reef, Tunze, and ETS, myself. Of these four, I'd go with an Aqua C or Euroreef>
Would one be good and connect it to both ends of the sump or one in sump skimmer on each end of the sump?
<Two skimmers would be cool...If you can swing it, I'd try two different kinds...Like an Aqua C EV series, and a Tunze...You're talking a lot of $$$, but a neat idea...>
I also want to add a calcium reactor, aquarium controller (Octopus or Neptune) with pH, temp, ORP, etc to make sure everything is going smooth, and have the lights put on a dimmer to simulate daylight, as well as have the controller if possible to activate a heater and chiller when necessary.
<Personally, I like the idea of a controller just for heating, and maybe lighting. Fully automated tanks freak me out! Call me old fashioned, but I like to take my own water tests...LOL>
Will either the Octopus or Neptune do all of that?  Which would you recommend?
<Well, they both have different pros and cons...For just chiller/heater control, you could use the "Medusa", and either of the two you mentioned can fulfill other needs. Do check out the manufacturer's websites for specific product capabilities>
I am still trying to figure out whether to use PC , VHO or MH
lighting.  Hopefully I didn’t leave anything out!
<Well- that's another one of those questions that's impossible to answer...My advice: Research and assemble a lighting system that meets the needs of the animals you are currently planning on keeping, and won't be useless should your interests change in the future (say, to clams or SPS, etc.)...My advice based on 20/20 hindsight is to go with halides and VHO...They provide maximum flexibility for most situations>
After I have everything set up I would slowly like to add coral, fish, and invertebrate slowly to achieve a beautiful Indo-Pacific Biotope.
<Sounds awesome! You're making me want to set up another tank!>
I hope this isn’t too many questions.
Thanks, Daniel
<No, Daniel- not too many questions...And the answers are all to be found in the resources we have here at WWM...Enjoy the journey! Regards, Scott F>

New Reefing 6/14/03
I promise, both hands are on the keyboard.
<heehee... OK. You're allowed to write in then :p>
In an earlier e-mail to either you or Kevin, I think I mentioned I'm just getting my feet wet in the hobby. (Ouch! Not even funny, huh?)  
<Doh! If you are, you doing water changes the hard way <G>>
I just started this thing up on April 27th and will be going to Alaska for 8 days at the end of July.
<Oh, that doesn't sound good... er, I mean... really? No worries... a good house sitter will be fine with clear instruction>
I'm just going to let things establish until I get home on August 1st.  Barely scratching the surface & lot's to learn.  That's why I can't get my hands on enough reading. Thanks for the red flag regarding the Anemones & corals.  A specially tank makes sense and sounds like the way to go.
<good to hear, bud. Its easily overlooked/ignored... and it is one of the bigger reasons why few anemones live past a year from collection>
Eventually, I would like to do a clam set-up also; or would they do OK with the corals?  
<the clams are very fine with the corals>
From what I gathered thus far, they should be in a shallower tank with more light. True?  
<usually... especially for Tridacna crocea and maxima>
As far as the EcoSystem set-up goes; I'm not above switching to a different set-up and using a skimmer. As it is, I'm a little ill at ease not skimming.
<no worries yet... just read up on how best to finesse the refugium with or without Caulerpa. The skimmer is nice/great... but not necessary. IMO... I would not run without one. Let me strongly recommend you add one to the ecosystem and remove later once all is better understood if you so desire>
Thanks again & I hope you at least get to sleep in on Saturday mornings! Greg Berkeley, IL
<best regards, Anthony>

How does this sound? New tank setup
>So you're saying not to vacuum regularly with the Berlin method? And as far as the protein skimmer, would the Seaclone 150 be sufficient? I plan to skim aggressively. What do you mean by using a refugium?  I have one more question for you and I believe I might be through. I read a little about refugiums and it sounds a little like what I wanted to do. I was originally planning on placing more live rock and sand in my sump to keep free swimming space for my fish. Would it be better to use a wet/dry for my application than the Berlin method?
>>I apologize, as I understand it, the Berlin method relies SOLELY on live rock and aggressive skimming for filtration.  The Jaubert method utilizes live sand, usually in the form of a deep sand bed (DSB), and copious live rock can be incorporated.  I believe that many would agree that a combination (arguments ensue over the question of nixing the plenum in favor of a DSB--I favor this) of methods is a good balance.  In other words, I feel that you might do better to go with a DSB, but not using sugar fine sand, something more on the order of 2mm-4mm substrate.  I'll give you a major link that will give you more links than you'll (initially) know what to do with, focusing on refugiums and DSB's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm
Hope this helps!  Marina

Converting a FOWLR to a reef tank
Good evening,
<Hi Marc, PF with you tonight>
I am converting my 180g FOWLR to a mini-reef.  Today we put in 400 pounds of Old Castle sand (Southdown's new owner), which with the existing sand gives me a 5"+ sand bed.  It's good to read this evening, after spending four hours cleaning the sand, that we could have just dumped it in the tank without cleaning if we were careful not to disturb it!  Still sounds problematic to me for future cleanings, however.
<Well, just dumping it isn't a good idea. It's better to slowly add it a 1/2" at a time over the course of weeks so the resident life can dig its way out. As for cleaning the sand bed, that's what cleaner organisms are for. Go here http://wetwebmedia.com/ to the bottom of the page and do a search on cleanup critters, lots of articles and FAQs to read.>
I am going to install an Iwaki MD 100 RLT which is rated at @ 2000gph (35.6 GPM) because I want to get as much circulation as possible.  I have a couple of other questions, however.
1) I understand I need some random water circulation.  True?  I could do this with powerheads on a random timer, but is there a better way?  If not, where should I locate these?  How do you combat the problem of the powerheads that make an obnoxious clicking noise every time they turn on?
<Well, if they're clicking, they should be cleaned. As for current, check out SCWD's, these are nice devices for making alternating currents. Also check out Tunze Streams, they're very nice too. Do a Google search for those.>
2) For lighting, with say 3-250w MHs and some VHOs, can I keep a wide array corals such as the simpler polyps and mushrooms with this lighting, along with SPS and giant clams?  Or are these species generally mutually exclusive?
<The mushrooms will likely grow like weeks and burn your SPS's. I would also advise you that having a well aged tank will increase your chances of success. The lighting though, sounds good for what you have planned.>
Thanks,
Marc
<Your welcome Marc, lots of stuff to read and learn about, keeping a reef is a much different adventure than a FOWLR. Have a good night, PF>

Setting up 58 Gallon Reef
I need some help.  I'm starting a 58gallon reef tank and haven't purchased a skimmer yet.  I would like to run the tank with a skimmer only.  I have an Iwaki pump (600 gal/hr) from years ago that was only used for about 6 months that could be used as a sump pump.  
<This would be the lowest volume I would be happy with, perhaps add a closed-loop to the tank itself to get closer to 20X times turnover, depending on chosen inhabitants.>
I've narrowed the skimmer selections down to an AquaC Remora Pro HOT, AquaC EV120 or an ETSS Super Reef Devil.  I would like to purchase the one that is the best bang for the buck.  Major considerations are performance, ease of use, quietness and
cost.
<With a sump I would go with the Aqua-C EV120 or a Euro Reef of comparable size (use manufacturers recommendation for each.  ETSS is also excellent.)
I am also considering a 250w HQI pendant light.  What are your
thoughts?? Thanks, Chris White
<I would go with two 175's or 250's over this tank, one won't cover it and 175's *just* penetrate enough for mushrooms and softies. If you are interested in SPS or LPS corals, I would go with 250's. Light coverage is about 2'X 2'.  Craig>

It's In The Water...Or Is It?
Hi Crew,
<Hi there! Scott F. at your service tonight!>
I have just learned of you website, first time surfing it....AWESOME!  I will  definitely be visiting your site often.
<Glad to hear that! We have some good stuff here!>
My question:  I am about to take the plunge from a fish only to reef tank.  I have an Oceanic 105 gal tank.  I currently have in my overflow box a bag of Chemi Pure and a bag of Silicate+Phosphate remover.  I will be using a R/O system to do water changes from this point on.  Is it necessary to continue using both of these chemicals once I use the R/O system?  I have conflicting answers from friends.
<Well, here's my take on it: If you're going to use R/O water, and are concerned about residual phosphate and/or silicate (particularly) in the product water, I'd simply obtain test kits for those two compounds and verify whether or not they are still present. In all likelihood, a good R/O system will remove almost all detectible phosphate from the water, but silicate may remain. depends on the level of silicate present in the source water, and the efficiency of your R/O unit. You really need to test to be certain. And, there is no harm in continuing the use of Chemi Pure even if you're using R/O for source water. It's a good product that can help remove a lot of organics from the system. I really like Poly Filter, and use them continuously in every system>
Also, when using the R/O water to do changes, what will I need
(besides salt of course) to add to the water?  Will I still need to use a de-chlorinator with the R/O water?
<You will not need a dechlorinator product, but you may need to buffer the water, as the R/O process removes minerals that help buffer the water. There are various "R/O reclamation" products out their that can do this...Bottom line, however, is that you should always test before adding anything to you water>
Thanks!!!! Rob
<Any time, Rob! Welcome to the WWM site...Hope that you enjoy the many, many resources that we have here. Feel free to write us any time! Regards, Scott F>

New Tank/New Concepts!
Hey,
<Hey there! Scott F. with you tonight!>
Sometime in the near future I am going to be setting up my 55 gallon tank. I have a 25 gallon tank that is a reef tank right now. All of the stuff from the 25 will go into the 55. But the 55 has a few new things that I am going to add. New stuff: Dual Metal Halides 175w 10K, Amiracle SL 150 Sump. My question is concerning the sump. What pump would you recommend for this sump. My LFS recommend a Rio 1400, but I have read some bad things about Rio pumps.
<I can tell you from personal experience in the past that they did not impress me with their lack of reliability. If you're going the submersible pump route, I'd look into the Mag Drive pumps- much more reliable, and they are available in a variety of sizes and flow rates. If your sump/overflow could accommodate a Mag 9.5 (700gph at 6 ft. of head), that would be a nice way to go.>
I do not want a pump that will fail on me causing me problems. I also wanted to run this by you to see what you think. Before I set the tank up instead of Bio Balls I plan to put live rock in the sump instead. I have read a few things about this, does it really help with lowering and getting rid of nitrates?
<Well, bioballs are a great way to break down ammonia and nitrite, but they don't serve to reduce nitrate...Better to use the sump as sort of the "nexus" of your water processing system...Don't use the bioballs; you could throw in some live rock in the wet section to help provide additional biological filtration. Or...You could even light a section of the sump, and float some macroalgae, such as Gracilaria or Chaetomorpha in there, and harvest it regularly to serve as an additional nutrient export vehicle (not to mention, a good place to grow some amphipods or Mysis) for your system.>
I will also have a 4" DSB. I plan on keep a few LPS in the future after the tank has been established for a while. For protein skimming I have a hang on filter/skimmer that works pretty good. I may go with a in-sump skimmer in the future.
<A nice way to go- several brands/types out there that will do the job!>
Also what is the best way to run the return line from the sump back to the tank? Do they make kits for this or what would be the best way?
<Well, there are lots of ways to go. Amiracle probably makes some return kits for their sumps, or you can go the DIY route, and run the return to appropriately placed bulkheads, or even more interesting devices, such as Sea Swirls.>
I guess the only thing I really need to know is what pump would be the best for my sump. The overflow box is the one that came with the sump. It does not say what gph it is rated at. Hopefully I included all the info that you would need.
Thanks, Chris   
<Well, Chris, the amount of water that the overflow can handle is of critical importance, as is the amount of water that the sump can handle in the event of power failure/drain down! You really should contact the manufacturer for specifics...But I hope I gave you a few ideas here. Good luck, and have fun! Regards, Scott F>

Old reef 2 new reef
Good day gentlemen.   I have a 75 gal reef tank that was established 2 years ago.,   I would like to transfer the contents to a new 180 gal that I just set up ( 2 weeks ago)  I have used the same plenum/sump type set-up for the new tank and it is running now.  
<Great, think of all that room you're going to have for more coral!>
I  filled the new tank with clean RO water, and maintain the same SG, ph, and dKH, as the established tank.  
<Excellent>
My question is , does the new tank need to cycle first or can I transfer the rock, corals, fish, and inverts now?   When and how is the best way to do this with out too much stress.
<Optimally, yes the tank should be well cycled. The best way would take at least a few weeks if not months of slowly moving the fish over, testing for ammonia and nitrite daily (avoiding any visible cycle), moving live rock over as your biological filter, then finally moving the coral over a month or so after starting. This is the optimal scenario, if you're moving then you may have no choice and everything must go in within a day. It's not the safest way to go, but hey, when I moved, it worked for me! It's all about testing your water and trying to avoid any ammonia or nitrite accumulation. Good luck, and enjoy the new big tank! -Kevin>
BTW,  Great site!  very helpful.

Reef Filtration/Sump
Hi,
I am setting up a 135 reef tank.  I have a 40 gallon long tank set up with baffles for my sump.  An experienced reefer recommended that I set up the water flow into and out of the sump with two Tidepool SOS overflow boxes (about 1000-1200 GPH), and a Gen-X MAK IV pump (about 1200 GPH).  He recommended that I split the water going back into the display and send it into the tanks at either end instead of one return line going into the middle of the tank.
First question, what do you think?  Do I need this much flow?  
<Fine plan except flow rate. For reef tanks, shoot for at least 10X up to 20X flow rate, IE: 1350-2700gph. So, 1200 gph isn't going to do it.  Size pump, overflows, plumbing to needed flow rate and head height.  If this is a new set-up, I highly recommend drilled overflows compared to add-on siphon overflows. If unavoidable, make sure you use powerheads to maintain siphon (pull air from tube during power failure, etc.)>
Second, do you know anything about the Gen-X pumps.  My friend likes them because he uses them.  I was looking for a second opinion.
<Several issues here: Flow rate, noise, power usage, head height/pressure. If these meet your criteria then all is well. If not, Gen-X is fine, but look also at Iwaki, another popular pump.>
Third question, I found a pump being introduced by Azoo called the MD55 External Pump.  I was told that they are very quiet, it is rated at 1,125 GPH @ 6', max head 27', and
is comparable to the Iwaki 55RLT.  Do you know anything about these pumps?
<Nope, but the flow rate is low for your 135.>
There is so much about pumps, I get a headache when I try to decide on which one to get. Thank you very much for your time,
Paul
<Not to worry my friend, pick by above criteria. You can always write to WetWebFotos.com and ask for references in the equipment forums.  Likely Iwaki is going to be your choice. Craig>

Reef Tank Rising!
Hello crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight>
Well I've made some substantial changes from my FOWLR tank to gear up for the big move to a reef tank. My system setup is as follows:
45 gallon tank (36" L x 12" W x 24" H)
AquaC Remora Protein skimmer
<Great skimmer!>
Upgraded from a 1" sand bed to a 4.5" DSB with sugar size aragonite.
<A wise move! One half inch or less- or three inches plus! That's a good rule of thumb>
Upgraded from 35lbs live rock to 70 lbs.  
New 4 x 55W power compacts: 2 x 10,000K 2 x actinic 03
(about 2.5 inches off the water)
Whisper Power filter 3 for the use of carbon and for additional circulation (removed bio sponge)
2 powerheads (200 gph each)
My inhabitants currently are:
1 yellow tang
1 coral beauty
1 skunk cleaner shrimp
10 Scarlet reef hermits
10 Blue leg hermits
<Good mix. The tang may ultimately outgrow this tank, however>
The fish and shrimp are currently in my quarantine tank because I want to wait for my new sand bed and live rock to settle in for a week or 2 as my nitrates are up to about 20 mg/l from 0.  It was not a fun job upgrading to the DSB, and I kind of made a mess of things.
<It's never a pleasant one, huh? Glad you're taking your time>
The process I used was to simply put the unopened bags into the tank (with rock and fish removed) and cut a hole in the bottom.  This was dry sand which I did not rinse, and needless to say my tank was cloudy for about 2 days.
<Predictable- but as good as any other technique, IMO!>
I stirred my old sand in with the new, the grain size being very similar. I'm not sure if this was the appropriate thing to do as I may have destroyed most of the "live" in my existing substrate by doing so, however I suspect in time it will begin to function properly.
<Exactly! In time, the beneficial infauna will begin to populate the "dead sand", and you'll have a thriving live sand bead. Just be patient!>
The live rock was cured in a Rubbermaid container with a powerhead, an air stone, a small filter, and a heater.  I did 100% water changes 2 x weekly, and after 5 weeks my ammonia finally started going down, however nitrites remained high.
<Well- they will probably remain high in such a container/situation- as no real continuous nutrient export mechanisms (except for water changes) are present in such a situation. Should not be as big a factor in your display tank, once the DSB kicks in!>
So I decided to move the fish out of the display tank, and put the LR in hoping that the mature water / filter / skimmer would help speed up the final leg of the process....which I think it did, as three days later my ammonia is 0  and nitrites are about 0.3 mg/l.
<Another good move, IMO!>
However as I mentioned my nitrates are a little high. I plan on adding a couple more small fish such as a Lineatus fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus Lineatus) , and perhaps a watchman goby, with his shrimp companion.  
<That should be it for fishes, okay? Especially with the tang, you'd really be pushing it, from a bioload standpoint...Don't wreck all of the good work you did so far by over-crowding, okay? Stock carefully, and you'll enjoy a thriving tank for the long run>
I test regularly for ammonia / nitrites / PH / KH /nitrates.  I believe I will also need to start testing for Calcium when I begin caring for corals and possibly using supplements such as Iodine.  Any other recommendations for testing / supplementing would be helpful.  I have never added any supplements to the tank to date, thinking that my regular water changes
can provide many if not all the elements needed.
<Agreed. I am of the opinion that many supplements are not really necessary. Unless tests indicate that certain important substances (iodine, for example) are at unacceptably low levels, I'd refrain from adding them. Frequent small water changes are the best "supplementation" that you can do, IMO. I think we as hobbyists tend to feel that we must dose additives to the water in order for our animals to survive or thrive. In many cases, this simply is not true...Depend on your regular water changes, and let your tests indicate whether or not further supplementation is needed.>
I am good about water changes, as I do a 5 gallon change weekly with aged/aerated water.
<Excellent>
I do, however use tap water which I know may not be my best choice, however I'm not ready to invest in an expensive RO/DI unit and with weekly water changes, it is not convenient for me to go to the LFS every time to purchase the water.
<Understood. Do realize, however, that your source water may be adding some nitrate to the system with every water change. With good nutrient export processes (i.e.; aggressive protein skimming, use of chemical filtration media, etc.), you can help minimize the accumulation of these undesirable substances and the potential for nuisance algae that they bring>
I plan on purchasing Anthony's book before I make any coral purchases already have Bob's CMA which along with this site have been invaluable resources),
<You will LOVE that book! Mine looks like one of my old college textbooks- all highlighted and "dog eared"! A great resource for any hobbyist even considering a reef tank!>
however with the new upgrades to my tank, I can't help starting my wish list. Here is what I am considering so far.  I realize that you recommend against placing corals from different
origins in the same tank however I'm unclear as to whether this applies to corals from Indonesia vs. Indo-Pacific origins.  I want all my inhabitants to coexist in as peaceful and comfortable way possible, considering they will be in a 45 gallon glass box.
<Well- more a matter of corals from different environmental situations, such as deeper-dwelling LPS and shallow water, high- current-and high- light-loving SPS corals>  
Red mushroom coral (Actinodiscus) - Indonesia
Bullseye Mushroom Coral (Rhodactis) - South Pacific
Orange / Red colony polyp (Zoanthus) - Indo-Pacific
Clove / Glove Polyp (Clavularia) - Indonesia
Brain coral (Wellsophyllia) - Indo Pacific
Brain coral (Trachyphyllia) - Indonesia.
So, will these animals be comfortable under my power compacts and setup? I realize that some of them require higher levels of light, so halides may be necessary.  Any additional suggestions as to some relatively hardy aesthetically pleasing corals that would be appropriate for my set-up would be much appreciated.  Your personal favorites etc....
<I like your stocking list...I have personally kept all of these animals under PC's in the past with very good results...Just study the requirements of each and consider placement within the system to minimize allelopathy and other potential problems between the animals.>
Thanks again for the awesome job you guys and gals do.
One day perhaps I can return the favor. Best Regards, Jesse Canizio
Boca Raton, FL
<Just keep learning and sharing with others, and you'll be doing a valuable service to everyone in this hobby! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

A varied list of questions 5/14/03
Greetings all!! And special thanks to Anthony, who has been so kind in the past.
<always our/my pleasure>
I've searched articles, the Forum, and other websites for these answers, but I'm not quite clear, so I've finally resorted to asking you what I'm sure you have answered before.  First, my current system is:
29g (30x12x18) FOWLR, about 9 months old  Prizm skimmer (which is on its way OUT as soon as economically practical...will go with AquaC Remora Pro), Emperor 330 filter, and 800L/hr powerhead.
Livestock are 1 Coral Beauty (the hyperactive one Anthony so gently advised me about :)), 1 Neon Damsel, and 1 Yellow-tailed Damsel.  Fish total about 7" (though they won't hold still for the ruler dangit).  Also 1 coral banded shrimp, a limpet (surprise with the live rock!), and 6 hermits, 2 blue 4 red. About 30-40# LR, moderate coralline growth, starting to perk up quite nicely. Everyone eats well, and looks terrific, water stays pretty stable, weekly water changes, all my parameters are WNL (0 nitrites, 0 amm, nitrates undetectable, sg 1.024, pH 8.2, etc. @78 F-80F).
Now, I want to change this tank to a 40 long (48x13x16).  I'm not planning on any more livestock (basically just more lateral swim room for the Coral Beauty) and will probably keep the Yellow-Tailed Damsel in the 29G.  Will eventually try my hand at corals (have a few books to buy!).  Just ordered CSL hood with 2x65W PC's, possibly more in future.
1. Is a DSB practical in a 16"H aquarium?  
<as much as I love DSB... it does not seem aesthetically sensible here. Perhaps have a DSB refugium instead inline>
And, if so, should it be all sugar sized sand, or can I use the rest of my Carib Sea Aragonite 1-2mm sand in with sugar-sized?  This translates to @ 1 part 1-2mm/6 parts sugar-sized.
<I strongly prefer the sugar fine sand at depths over 3"... closer to 6" best>
2. On the Emperor 330, it has "media baskets" in the filter...can I use small pieces of LR?  These baskets are before floss/carbon pads to outflow...any help or harm to this idea?  
<little help or harm... I like the foams blocks better for 'pod cultivation. Be sure to use carbon somewhere in the system too... weekly in small portions ideally>
3.  Will a DSB improve lighting on any corals I decide on in the future (lifting them higher obviously).  I plan on low to moderate light-requiring fellas, but not sure if this is enough lighting even for those.
<not much of a concern here in such a shallow tank>
4. And last...(sorry for such a long letter!) are there any snails etc in particular that would fare well for this set-up?  
<many possibilities here>
I have amphipods in the nano which burrow happily around, would like something to do same in the 40 (besides me and my siphoning <G>). Thanks so much for your time!!! Allison
<Sounds like a wonderful upgrade. :) with kind regards, Anthony>

New reef set-up questions 
Hello Anthony! Back again with some more questions, hoping this time not to repeat myself...
<cheers, Thanassis>
I have decided to go with two overflow holes, 1 1/2'' each. I will use two EHEIM pumps, sitting inside the sump (not much room to put them outside).
<no worries... add a little heat to water which may help or hurt slightly... little concern otherwise>
The first, model 1260, will give a flow of 400g/h at 6 ft head pressure, and the other, model 1262, will have a flow of 550g/h at the specific head. I calculated two extra feet for the U-tubing I shall use. Total flow 950g/h, which would mean a circulation of the tank water of about 16 times per hour. I think this should be sufficient circulation.
<sound very nice indeed>
I am checking with Sea-Swirl but they propose the 1/2 inch model (two units). Since my return hoses from the two pumps will be 3/4'' and 1'', would it be ok of I go from 3/4'' to the 1/2'' inlet of the Sea-Swirl unit?
<hmm... good question. Not sure but I would suggest an e-mail to their tech department for a proper confirmation (safety)>
If not, then how about a 3/4'' tee and then go from 3/4 to 1/2 on each side? In this case I will connect both Sea-Swirl units to one return, which means that I will still have the return of the second pump "free" no connection to a surge device). What do you propose ???
<definitely best to check with manufacturer with concern for long-term effects on these expensive (but wonderful) units>
I am also checking on another product , the SCWD - Switching Current Water Direct. This is a cheaper product , runs without electricity and seems a serious product. Do you have any experience or heard any comments about it? Thanks, Thanassis
<alas, no... but please do report your experiences to us to share with other WWM readers if you try it! Kind regards, Anthony

- FOWLR-to-Reef -
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
I have just broken down my 160fowl and due to my addiction to Acros will be setting up reef, but wanted an expert opinion as I have been doing a lot of research.
1)I have a 30 sump due to space limitation, I plan to make a custom Berlin style sump with a 10in deep sand/aragonite bed (aragonite to help stabilize ph since I have a sweet calc reactor :)). I also plan to have a 3 to 4 in sand bed in the tank, with a ton of live rock. On top of this, I want to setup a
refugium, with another deep sand bed (I currently have a 20 gal long due to space limits), does this sound like enough filtration for a tank this size, I want to ensure I have zero trates. <Sounds like a decent amount of filtration, but you should guard carefully against overstocking... only add one thing a month, and I think you can take this system a long way. I think it would be possible to overwhelm the filtration you have planned if you overstock.>
2) I have also read that the impact of cyclic to killing off creatures on live rock can be minimized by simply adding an abundance of live phytoplankton, it has been suggested that this also shortens cycling time, while it seems logical to me, I wanted to ask the experts before I dump a
whole bottle of DTs into the tank. <I've not yet heard this, and it doesn't really make sense to me either... most of the stuff on live rock that is dying out is really on its way out, without hope for return. I'd think the phytoplankton would just add to the amount of dying biomass. But again, this could be something genuine - try it, take notes, and let us know how it goes.>
3) Is there any scientific proof that Tunze pumps benefit SPS more than a standard powerhead(s) wavemaker configuration? <Scientific? I doubt it.>
4) I have a Purp tang and would like to add Anthias and a clown tang ultimately, I have been warned clown tangs can be aggressive, is this true, should I avoid it? <Yes, do avoid the clown tang.>
as always, addicted and thankful for your input
<Cheers, J -- >

575 reef components
So I am setting up a 575 gallon reef in my house and my local store, which I have been using for years is insisting that I use a 200 gallon Polyethylene tank along with a 200 gallon sump for filtration.  My question to you is, is this necessary and how would I go about setting this up?  I have a separate equipment room in which all of the gear will be going into but this is the
largest adventure I have gone on. Any help or points in the right direction would be helpful.
Thanks
<Sorry if this is a repeat, I tried sending the reply and my internet connection dumped me.>
<Well, as for sumps, I would recommend one. A cheaper alternative is to use a feeding trough as a sump, you can find them at farm or home repair style stores. As for you system, I would recommend you read through this FAQ, it's full of good advice: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lgmartkfaqs.htm  then ask more specific questions when you have done that.>

New reef set-up questions: Greece Reef 4/25/03
Really thanks once again, Anthony.
<always welcome>
A couple of more questions:
- Concerning the return from the sump to the tank, as said before I will buy the Sicce pump, model Suprema 1000-4000 lit/hour, which has an adjustable flow through a regulator, so I will adjust the pump's capacity to the 2'' drainage the way you advised me in the previous email. The pump has a 3/4'' outlet and I am thinking of having a 3/4'' return bulkhead (same diameter as the pump) and of course 3/4 flexible PVC tubing. Is this right or is it
better to have 1'' bulkhead and 1'' PVC tubing ?
<depends on the needs of the tank... greater head pressure will benefit by the smaller tubing (3/4")>
- In order to connect the pump with the PVC flexible tubing  do I have to use a flexible hose first to connect to the pump and then connect the flexible hose to the PVC hose? I can not think of another way, is there anything else to go around?
<I have no idea, my friend. I have never seen/handled this pump brand in America to know what its outlets are like. It is little matter either way if the tubing is hard plumbed off the pump or flexed>
- According to the pump's manufacturer the pump has a capacity of 2300 lit/h (575 gal/h) on the 1.20meters (4 feet) height. This is 8 times per hour circulation of my tank + sump (70 gal), which I think is a good rate.
<agreed, if the display (I believe it will) has extra water flow from power heads to get a total turnover of 10-20X hourly>
It seems to me that the 2'' drain pipe will be enough to circulate the 575 gal/h, but if not,
<agreed... easily>
then I will adjust the flow accordingly. My question is at which height should I make the hole for the return from
the sump to the tank.
<I do not drill a hole at all but instead return over the lip of the tank with a U-tube to be safe. You may still drill a hole of you prefer... little matter>
My LFS say it has to be higher than the upper wall of
the overflow box, so that we can prevent a drainage in case of power failure.
<yes!!! Very true... and hence the reason why a U0tube over the edge is "safer">
Can water really drain through the return hole , in other words
pass through the pump and empty into the sump?
<yes... fast and guaranteed! Your tank will "back-siphon to the height of the hole... possibly overflowing your sump onto the floor!>
- I have read in your site good comments about the Sea Swirl unit and I am interested in buying it. However I still can not find it in an on-line shop in Europe.
<just e-mail the manufacturer to find/verify an overseas manufacturer>
Is it more efficient than the connection of the return pipe to an
all-around-the-tank-wall pipe with tees?
<actually, yes... it is an amazing product>
Thanks in advance, Thanassis
<best regards, Anthony>