Nano-Cube HQI Aquarium Kit 5/7/08 Hello WWM Crew, hope you are all well and thank you for all that you do!! <Doing well here, WWM is a pleasure to be part of and help out.> I have to downsize (sad I know) my 100 gal to a 30 gal reef tank. Breaks my heart it does. <I bet!> Although I did look I couldn’t find anything on direct experience with this prepackaged system. Have any of you gotten any feedback on if this thing and if it’s various parts work for more than a week? <There are many systems similar to this out and about on the market now (many originate from the same manufacturer under different labels), all seem to function just fine.> If so, it would fit my space needs perfectly. Here’s the setup; 150 watt 14000°K HQI metal halide lighting (4) Nite-Vu LED lighting with separate power cord (2) UL-Listed Accela Powerheads (266 gph each for a 532 gph total) (2) Directional flow nozzles (1) Ocean Pulse Duo - Alternating wavemaker (4) Integrated cooling fans (3,000 RPM's) Counter current protein skimmer with air pump 3-stage filtration with removable media basket Center overflow system Designated area for a heater Flame retardant ABS canopy housing Thermal protector for canopy (Auto Shut Off protection) I thought I would also add a small chiller since I’m concerned about temp variations in this small a volume. <A good idea, the main problem with these systems is temperature fluctuations with the MH light.> Thanks again for you time. If you’ve already done a review of this system I’m sorry to ask again, please just post the link. <We do not generally review products per se, just give opinions when asked. My only other word of advice regarding this system is the skimmer. The little limewood driven skimmers do work quite well, just be aware the limewood will require periodic replacement to keep the skimmer working well. If this is a concern for you there are many aftermarket skimmers made just for these systems nowadays. The Tunze Nano DOC being my personal favorite.> Take care, Joe <Joe, do realize that you can have an amazing tank even with the smaller volume. Livestock choices, stability and maintenance routines just become all that much more important with the smaller tank. Cheers, Scott V.>

Re: Nano-Cube HQI Aquarium Kit 5/7/08 Hello WWM Crew, hope you are all well and thank you for all that you do!! <Doing well here, WWM is a pleasure to be part of and help out.> I have to downsize (sad I know) my 100 gal to a 30 gal reef tank. Breaks my heart it does. <I bet!> Although I did look I couldn’t find anything on direct experience with this prepackaged system. Have any of you gotten any feedback on if this thing and if it’s various parts work for more than a week? <There are many systems similar to this out and about on the market now (many originate from the same manufacturer under different labels), all seem to function just fine.> If so, it would fit my space needs perfectly. Here’s the setup; 150 watt 14000°K HQI metal halide lighting (4) Nite-Vu LED lighting with separate power cord (2) UL-Listed Accela Powerheads (266 gph each for a 532 gph total) (2) Directional flow nozzles (1) Ocean Pulse Duo - Alternating wavemaker (4) Integrated cooling fans (3,000 RPM's) Counter current protein skimmer with air pump 3-stage filtration with removable media basket Center overflow system Designated area for a heater Flame retardant ABS canopy housing Thermal protector for canopy (Auto Shut Off protection) I thought I would also add a small chiller since I’m concerned about temp variations in this small a volume. <A good idea, the main problem with these systems is temperature fluctuations with the MH light.> Thanks again for you time. If you’ve already done a review of this system I’m sorry to ask again, please just post the link. <We do not generally review products per se, just give opinions when asked. My only other word of advice regarding this system is the skimmer. The little limewood driven skimmers do work quite well, just be aware the limewood will require periodic replacement to keep the skimmer working well. If this is a concern for you there are many aftermarket skimmers made just for these systems nowadays. The Tunze Nano DOC being my personal favorite.> Take care, Joe <Joe, do realize that you can have an amazing tank even with the smaller volume. Livestock choices, stability and maintenance routines just become all that much more important with the smaller tank. Cheers, Scott V.>

Getting Back In To The Hobby...A Lot Has Seemed To Change (Indeed!) – 04/21/08
HI gents,
<<Some very sharp ladies here as well…and hello!>>
Michael here, and I am setting up a brand new tank.
<<Neat>>
The tank is ordered, dimensions 60x18x30 flat back hex.
<<Ah…so about 125-gallons or so (taking in to account the “Hex” design)>>
I am going to be DIY-ing the stand and a three chambered sump rough dimensions 48x24x18 and probably will be half filled when running.
<Okay>>
The first chamber will be getting the water supply from the main tank and will house the skimmer (suggestions on type/brand/model).
<<Euro-Reef is my current fave…an RS-80 or maybe RS-100 would do fine here>>
The second chamber will house a deep sand bed and some live rock and possibly some algae (suggestion of type)
<<Chaetomorpha gets my vote for its “user-friendliness”>>
and will be lit during the main tank dark times. And finally the third chamber will have the heaters, calcium reactor (suggestion needed),
<<I have/use one from Precision Marine…the CR-422 would serve your system, but do also take a look at the offerings from Knop…and the new line of Octopus reactors with “screw-tops” looks interesting as well>>
and return pump. Lighting will come from a Current metal halide/CF fixture about 600watts) hanging from the ceiling. My goal is to have the tank turning over as much as the built in overflows can handle (not sure how much this will be, at least 12x I am guessing).
<<For 1” drains figure about 300gph per…700gph or so for 1.5” drains>>
The tank itself will have between 90 and 125 lbs of LR
<<Take care not to overload with rock…leave plenty of space for fish to swim, corals to grow, water to move about… And rather than the typical (and boring?) “rock wall”…consider a little researching to replicate a particular “niche” from the reef, and stocking with animals found re>>
and 120 LBS of LS and have several types of soft and hard corals and maybe 5-10 damsels
<<Choose species carefully here as most Damsels will not get along in these numbers for the long term, in this size system>>
and a tang or two and a clown fish or two.
<<But hopefully no Anemone mixed in with your sessile inverts>>
I am hoping this stock of fish will not be too much and that my setup will be sufficient.
<<The stocking density looks fine…though you may want to consider a more “cooperative” group of small fishes other than the damsels>>
Please help with suggestion on a high to medium skimmer and a descent calcium reactor.
<<Have done so>>
Going to send in pictures of the setup process and at various stages and the finally setup once done.
<<Sounds good…look forward to seeing it>>
Michael Wade
York, SC
<<Eric Russell…Columbia, SC>>

Setting Up a 113g Reef Cube – 04/09/08
Hi all,
<<Hello Michael>>
Maybe I should divide this into a couple different emails since it's questions involving 2 different future set ups. If that's the case, feel free to edit and split however you see fit.
<<Mmm, well…it’s all here as “one” now, so let’s see how it goes>>
I value your website and your advice very much and would like to thank you in advance!!!
<<Quite welcome>>
Okay, here's the deal, I currently have 2 mixed reef tanks, a 46 and a 75. My 46 has 2X96 watt PC lighting and my 75 has a 6 bulb 48" Tek 5 fixture that I love!!
<<Metal Halide is my current fave…but admit the T5 lighting is quite nice>>
I'm in the process of setting up a 113 gallon cube tank. I purchased a used tank that measures 36" long, 25" front to back and 29" high. I plan for this tank to be predominately SPS but will also have some LPS and Clams.
<<I see>>
My first question is about lighting. I realize that with a depth of 29" I'll most likely need to go with MH lighting.
<<Will provide the most “bang for the buck” in the space allowed, yes>>
I am absolutely have to go with 400 watts or if 250 watts will be enough.
<<250w lamps will serve quite well…I suggest two>>
I do want to be able to keep Acros but am more than willing to keep the higher light demanding corals higher in the tank.
<<Is always a good plan regardless of the wattage used>>
I plan to keep Acros in the upper portion of the tank, lower light demanding SPS, such as Montipora in the middle level and LPS towards the bottom.
< I think it is a mistake to believe Montipora species won’t appreciate the same light levels as we assume Acropora species “require.” Many Montipora species, especially branching varieties, will grow faster and color-up better under intense lighting, in my experience. But even so, the 250w halides will provide sufficient light re for the Montipora at “middle level”… and for many Acropora species as well>>
I'll use the same philosophy with my clams. Will 250 watts be enough?
<<Yes>>
I know absolutely nothing at all about MH lighting and have soooo much to learn. I see different types of ballasts, magnetic, electronic, etc. I see mogul and DE bulbs, I see pulse start....non pulse start...German bulbs.....I'm sooo confused...lol. I don't know what any of this means at all!!
<<Can be daunting…but do start reading here and among the links in blue at the tops of the pages. Formulate some specific questions and give me a holler if you wish>>
I'm assuming, because of the dimensions of this tank that I'll be able to hang a single pendant above the tank.
<<You could, though this will limit the numbers/species you can keep as light toward the ends of the tank will be quite dim>>
That brings up the question of how to supplement actinic lighting with either PC or T5s.
<<Not necessary…but if you wish, either will do fine>>
I'm also considering building a canopy and installing a MH retro pendant and supplemental actinics.
<<A fine idea>>
Any and all suggestions or advice would be wonderful.
<<Do some reading, and then come back with more specific questions if necessary>>
I am still in the planning stages of this tank and plan to drill it for a closed-loop system as well as for an overflow and return for a sump/refugium I'll be building.
<<Excellent>>
Any advice on placement, number and size of holes would be great!!
<<Much to be stated… Read here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm) and here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbretfaq2.htm) and come back with specific questions about what you want to do>>
Drilling brings up another question. I've heard and read that you can determine if your tank is all tempered by looking at the glass through polarized sunglasses. Any advice on this?
<<Don’t think I’ve heard/know about this. Most all production tanks of size and of recent manufacture will have at the least a tempered bottom panel. I would think your tank would probably be OK to drill through a side panel…but I suggest you contact the manufacturer to be sure>>
From what I can tell, there are no markings at all on any of the glass panes.
<<New tanks would have tempered panels marked (usually a sticker), but since your tank is used……>>
I sure don't want to shatter my tank...lol.
<<Agreed…can give one quite a start>>
Also, is there any way to determine if this tank has ever had copper based medicine used in it?
<<Mmm…try adding some water…let it stand a while…test the water>>
If so, does that make it impossible to use it as a reef tank?
<<Maybe not… If you detect copper, you may be able to remove it (depending on how much trouble you wish to go to) with a proprietary copper remover (e.g. – Seachem’s Cupramine)>>
Now on to my next project...The above mentioned cube will replace my 46 gallon bowfront and the 46 gallon will be turned into a Seahorse tank. I'm still in the beginning stages of learning about Seahorses as well. I understand there a HUGE difference between reef and seahorse tanks when it comes to flow, temperature and such.
<Indeed>>
I'm thinking that I'll utilize the current PC lighting that I have on the 46. I'll cut way back on flow by removing the modified MJ1200s and replacing them with...I don't know. I've heard that it's not a good idea to have any power heads in a seahorse tank.
<<As weak swimmers, such devices can be harmful if employed without some thought to diffusing flow/protecting intakes, yes>>
This tank has a HOB CPR Aquafuge, the large size. It also has an AquaC Remora HOB Skimmer. Will these 2 units provide enough flow?
<<I would think so>>
They both have the standard pumps. With these in place, I don't have room to add a HOB box type power filter. I've used the HOB power filters such as AC100s and turned them into mini fuges by removing the filter media and replacing with Chaeto. This would supplement flow but there's just no room. I could use a canister filter to supplement flow if needed. Any and all suggestions for this would be great too!!
<<I very much suggest you visit the Seahorse forums for better detailed info than I can provide (http://www.seahorse.com/option,com_joomlaboard/Itemid,218/func,showcat/catid,2/)>>
Last question....for now....I would really like this tank to house 2 species of seahorses.
<<Not usually recommended>>
I understand that different species have different temperature requirements and such. If I were to get 2 species from the same region, would I be okay? If I'm unable to house 2 different species and still provide proper conditions for both, I won't. What species would you recommend for someone who does have experience with reef tanks but none with seahorses? I'd also like to house 2 of whatever species I have.
<<Ocean Rider offers excellent “tank raised” specimens that are good choices for novice “horse keepers.” I suggest you contact them (http://www.seahorse.com/contact/Carol_Ann_Cozzi-Schmarr/) and let Carol advise you on your selection>>
Again, thank you so much for any information, suggestions or advice you're able to provide. You guys are awesome!!
Sincerely,
Michael
<<Happy to assist, Michael. Be chatting, EricR>>

Moving up to a 110 gallon system... reading re stkg., canister filters/reef   3/15/08
Hello Crew,
<Cinnamon, let me in!>
I have been a fan of your site since I found it. Great advice.
<Thanks>
Here in my question. I currently have a 60 gallon reef system. I am running a Marineland Emperor Bio-Wheel 400 Power Filter, a Aqua C Remora Protein Skimmer with Maxijet 1200 Pump and a Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system. Two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads and One 200 watt heater. I also have about 60 to 80 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed.
The current residents of the 60 gallon, (listed below) will be relocating to the 110 gallon mentioned below. Except for the tomato clowns and the Yellow Belly Blue Damsel. They will be going back to the LFS.
1 yellow tang 4in
2 tomato clowns
1 Lyretail Anthias 3"
1 Yellow Belly Blue Damsel
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish 4"
2 Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp
1 Fire Shrimp
2 Serpent Starfish
1 Hawaiian Feather Duster
15 assorted snails
1 Long tentacle anemone and 1 short tentacle
Several different types of mushrooms, polyps and Zoanthids.
I purchased the 110 gallon tank, (48 x 30 x 18) with no overflow, to be my new reef system. My plan is to run a Eheim 2028 Professionel II Canister Filter,
<Mmm, good product... I use them on my FW tanks... but am not such a fan for marine... part. reef set-ups. Please see WWM re: http://wetwebmedia.com/marcanfiltuse.htm>
two Hydor Koralia 3 - 850GPH powerheads, Aqua C Remora Pro Protein Skimmer with Mag 3 Pump, two Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200 Watt Heater and the Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system which is on my current system. I know my current lighting system will need to be upgraded at some point, but do you think I will be able to go with this one for now?
<If you can arrange your stinging-celled life to be about the same depth of water as currently>
I will also have about 75 to 100 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed. Any recommendations would be helpful?
<Deeper, finer substrate is better... also posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm
and the linked files above.>
I would also like to add the following resident to the new system, if you approve? I do not want to overload my system.
2 Maroon Clownfish
1 Blonde Naso Tang. I know he will need to be in a larger system in a couple of years.
<Mmm, no... immediately. I would not keep a Naso species in anything less than six feet long/wide... See... WWM... re...>
Already planning on a 180 system.
1 Full size angel?
<... Not a good idea>
Hardy and reef safe any suggestions?
<Posted...>
I know there is no guarantee on it being reef safe.
1 Blue Jaw Trigger or Niger Trigger?
A group of schooling fish. Any suggestions?
<Reading. Bob Fenner>

Re: Setting Up 110 Gallon Reef System 03/21/2008
Hello Again Crew,
<<G'Morning, Andrew today>>
This is Ron. A.K.A. the Mystery Man...
Thanks for the advice. I have attached my first inquiry email, I sent to you. I want to make sure I have everything right before I make my purchase of equipment and livestock. I apologize in advance, if I am being repetitive. O. K. here we go.
<<No need to apologise>>
Equipment I am going with for this 110 gallon future reef:
RENA Filstar XP 3 Canister Filter. I am not going to use the Emperor 400. If that is alright?
<<I see down below your going for 120lbs of live rock in a 110 gal tank. With this amount of live rock, a filter is not need as the rock will provide your filtration. However, if adding a filter is your choice, then the XP3 is a good one to choose>>
Aqua C Pro with Mag pump protein skimmer.
<<Great skimmer>>
120 lbs or more of live rock.
<<Good>>
CaribSea Aragamax Sugar Sized Sand 2 in. depth.
<<Good>>
2 Hydro Koralia 3 (850 GPH) This gives me 1700 GPH. I was thinking 1 Hydro Koralia 3 (850 GPH) and 1 Hydro Koralia 2 (600 GPH)? I do want to blow the DSB around?
<<As this is to be a reef, you'll need around about 2600GPH water circulation, so, combinations of the Hydors will achieve this>>
2 Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200 Watt Heaters.
<<Good>
Lighting supplied with a Current Orbit (2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system.
<<Good>>
I will move the soft coral to the upper part of the tank and the anemones are coming out (LFS gift). I will upgrade the lighting within the next few months.
<<in my opinion this lighting is not good enough for anemone's. I high powered T5 or Metal Halide should be used for them>>
That's it as far as equipment. I hope? Any more suggestions will be welcomed.
<<All seem fine to me>>
As far as livestock, for this future reef tank.
No more tangs. As you advised me, in your previous reply.
Is there any kind of show fish I can have? Full size Angel, Butterfly, etc.?
What about some kind of schooling fish? What kind would you suggest and how many?
<<There is a lot of fish you can have in there, but of course, compatibility with the corals is the harder part. It is unfortunate that most of the real "show" fish are not completely compatible with corals. Angels and butterflies being two of them>>
Thanks Again.
We are out here and we are listening.....
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Tank Setup Update 2/27/08
Hello Crew and Bob
<Hello Brian, Scott V. with you today.>
I'm writing you today not to ask questions but to give you a update on my new reef tank ;)
<OK>
Thanks to Scott V and Mike at www.glass-holes.com I have put together the perfect reef setup. I ordered a 1500g overflow box kit which came with the diamond bit and all accessories needed for the overflow including a cool glass-holes.com tee shirt and some hard candies.
Thanks Scott and Mike
<I am happy to hear everything worked out well.>
So here's my tank setup we'll see how perfect it is as of today.
Cycling the aquarium started 2-21-08 so its 5 days old..
55 lbs of live rock from Dr Foster and Smith "Nice stuff by the way"
70 lbs of sand bed. It’s about 5 inches deep.
The sump actually overflows into the refuge...My idea but with Scott V helping me with this idea .Thanks again Scott, it works perfect.
<Good to hear.>
2 DIY refuge's 1 has 6 inches of sand other has 4 inches of refuge mud I plan on growing macro after the cycle is completed..
No light over refuge as of yet.
And then 2 Mag drive 12 pumps returning water through Vinyl Tubing 3/4" so total I'm pumping roughly 1400 gph total I'm thinking?
<I would like to state for other’s sake that I would not typically recommend this much pump on two 1 ½” bulkheads. Yours is a situation that allowed it with your particular plumbing combination and head pressure.>
Lighting is the Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures w/Lunar Lights total watts is 216
I plan on just LPS tank at the moment..
My skimmer is junk
Skimmer I'm ordering from Scott V he just doesn't know it yet ;)
<Heee, I do now!>
Tank specs as of tonight 2-26-08 , 5:00 pm
Water is RO
Water change 10 gal weekly
Sal 1.024
<I would raise this a bit to 1.025-1.026.>
Temp 80
PH 8.2
Amm 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 5.0 ppm
Alk 3.0
Cal 100
I'm ignoring Alk and Cal readings above only because it’s a new tank!
I added a 2 part calcium/Alk called C-balance tonight rechecking numbers tomorrow hoping these numbers will balance (Alk 2.5 Cal 420).
<Yes, do supplement to get these numbers up.>
I'm guessing these numbers are good for the tank being 5 days old
That's about all I can think of tonight I hope I didn't leave anything out.
With all this finally done I owe many people like WWM Crew and Bob Fenner for this Web site as I am an everyday reader a BIG THANK YOU for everything you guys/gals do!  <<This is what makes all the time, daily... worthwhile. RMF>>
>:((((-<
Brian Coble, Wisconsin
<You are welcome Brian, I am glad we could help. Thank you for all the kind words and the update on your system. Scott V., in sunny California.>

No Questions, Just Thanks 2/19/08
Hi Crew
<Hi Garry>
Having been away from the hobby for over ten years (major family illness meant no time) I am now approaching that time when the reef bug has caught hold and gone from being latent to rampant again.
<Ah, the bug has bit.>
Much has changed, although I seem to have done much of what is current anyway, refugia, big skimmers, live rock filtration methods, etc etc (more by accident than design I might add), and finding your site has allowed the dream and adventure to begin on a much more solid foundation than before. I know my stocking rates have always been light and my filtration heavy but it always worked for me and I only ever seemed to lose a fish shrimp or whatever through old age or accident. It is good to know that what I did in the past is advised as being the way to go today.
<Not much has changed but technology.>
So this is just a big thank you to everyone from Bob to Steve to anyone who replies to the thousands of questions people come up with. Your site has replaced a lot of faith I have lost with the industry (hobby) what with shops who don't have a clue (keeping a few small wrasse with an Anglerfish is just one example), and staff about as knowledgeable (sorry if that's spelt wrong) as a garbage man in a hospital.
<Thank you for your kind words. James (Salty Dog)>
Regards
Garry Holter (in the UK)
Oh I'm an ecologist by training and understand community structure very well (it formed my D.Phil research for 4 years) and boy does that help in structuring a reef aquarium. <<Would very much encourage your writing... re the many useful tie-ins here. Bob Fenner>>
<Mmmm>

75 gallon system, reef set-up Qs   2/2/08
Hey guys,
<Mr. Christian>
It's been a while since I have last written to you guys, and since then I have been forced to tear down the tank, and attempt to start it up once again, thus of course leading to many more questions! It is a standard 75 gallon tank with a built in overflow which leads down to a SeaLife Systems wet/dry 125 in which I have replace the bio balls with live rock rubble.... The next section of the wet/dry is where the useless SeaLife Systems protein skimmer and rio return pump sit, both of which no longer work and are the main reasons for the collapse of the beautiful tank I used to have. My plan for this tank is to go full blown reef with many different inverts and just a couple small reef safe fish. So, here is the equipment I am looking into buying for my new setup: (I haven't bought them yet so please tell me if you have any suggestions)
Protein Skimmer - Euro Reef RS100
<Good unit>
Lighting - Outer Orbit 48" 2x 150w 10K Metal halides with 2x 130 w actinic PC's
Live Rock - 90 lbs of liveaquaria.com's select Lalo LR
Sandbed - Want a 4" deep sandbed to help with NNR, is it possible to use sand bought from Home Depot for this?
<Mmm, possibly... they used to carry a calcareous play sand... but not all is of such a nature... Do you know of the "acid test"? See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm
and the linked files above>
Perhaps supplement with other Live Sand?
<Good idea>
Also do you know approximately how many pounds I would need to create a 4" deep bed?
<Mmm... about thirty pounds per square foot of bottom>
Pumps/Circulation - Return pump will be a Rio 20HF, and the in tank powerheads will be a Tunze Turbelle Stream 6060 (too much flow do you think?)
<Not too much>
and also on the side of the return, a Hydor Koralia NANO.
Anyways, these are just my plans so far, please give me your suggestions, opinions. etc. Can't wait to hear back from you guys and thanks a bunch.
-Christian
<Thus far, so good... Bob Fenner>

R4: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not “Really” A Biotope…Bummer) – 01/23/08
Hi again, Eric
<<Hello Barb!>>
Here I am again! :)
<<Me too!>>
I read up on the shrimp goby/shrimp symbionts; they sound like my cup of tea.
<<Cool>>
Thanks for the link.
<<Quite welcome>>
My question for keeping them regards the substrate. For the DSB I was planning on using the sugar-fine aragonite.
<<Mmm yes, I recall…not the “best” for the shrimp/goby>>
However, I've read that a coarser sand bed is preferred by a lot of these creatures.
<<Indeed… And more than preferred…is necessary… to allow them to build structures/tunnels that won’t collapse>>
Comments?
<<Easy enough to rectify by adding some substrate of a larger grain size…along with some crushed shells>>
From what I've read, mixing different sized sands doesn't work well for DSB. What are your thoughts on that?
<<I disagree… Adding a few pounds of larger aggregate will do no harm to the DSB>>
I understand your comments about including an anemone in this system. If I want to do this I need to thoroughly understand the anemone type so that it is protected.
<<Along with protecting its tankmates>>
I get how sensitive they are, and I certainly wouldn't want to torture something just so I have something cool to look at!
<<And it wouldn’t likely be for long at that. Do consider that there has been some speculation that anemones may be truly “immortal” creatures, never showing any signs/wear-and-tear of aging. Succumbing only to the vagaries of their environment. Considering this…keeping one of these animals “alive for a few years” can hardly be deemed as “success”>>
I am reading about allelopathy and it is slow going.
<<Patience, Grasshopper>>
Complicated, to say the least <I'm thinking you probably know this :) > I do see why you suggest adding extra filtration.
<<Indeed>>
If and when I get my mind around the subject I’ll probably ask more questions! :-/
<<Okey-dokey!>>
Re: light bulb choices; you say that it would be good to add more lower Kelvin rated bulbs; is the GE 65K Daylight bulb the type you are talking about?
<<It is, yes…to replace the more “blue” bulbs in your previous selection…as would be most any of the true 10,000K bulbs available>>
Adding more of that type would "give more output/provide more useful spectrum"?
<<Yes… A 65K bulb will have far better output than most of the “blue” bulbs, and it will still have enough light in the blue spectrum for your livestock’s needs. Generally, adding blue/actinic light is for the aquarist’s enjoyment>>
And, one New question concerning Live Rock; what is your opinion of aquacultured live rock/live sand? I'm referring specifically to Tampa Bay Saltwater's rock/sand. I was reading about it on several different forums, and it sure does make some beautiful looking tanks.
<< I prefer to stay away from this, though use the aquacultured rock if you wish…just be sure to cure it thoroughly yourself. It won’t cause any harm, but I have heard many experiences of pest organisms (Aiptasia/mantis shrimp) coming in with this rock. And not that this can’t be the case with “any” rock…but a good quality “natural” live rock will be lighter (much “cultured” rock is Limestone), and have better biodiversity…in my opinion. Oh yeah…don’t pay money for “live sand” if you can help it. Add a suitable “dry” sand and it will become “live” in short order from the rock, corals, et al>>
Re: cats and snow. When my kitty touched snow for the first time she shot straight up in the air LOL... like about 3ft in the air. She was very sad when she landed right back in it!
<<We’re still waiting to give ours a go in the snow…might be years yet!>>
And, lastly, I mentioned my son lives at the beach on Topsail Island?
<<Yes>>
On Monday morning it was 11f there, and all his pipes froze!
<<Yikes… Was about 23F here…still colder than we like/are used to>>
He wasn't happy about that, but he did get the day off work to deal with it. He always likes a day off from work.
<<You know what they say…a bad day at most anything, beats a good day at work!>>
Thanks again for help with my (probably annoying) new-to-the-reef questions!
Barb
<<Not at all, Barb…I look forward to further exchanges. Eric Russell>>

Thoughts on my new reef tank setup 01/16/2008 Hi, <<Hello, Andrew here>> Thanks in advance for taking the time to read my email, and for the times you helped me previously. I've been keeping freshwater aquariums for over 10 years now but have little experience with marine aquariums except for a brief experiment with a nano tank at work ( took it down when I went back to school ). I'm currently in the process of setting up a reef tank and have been doing research ( reading here and joined a couple of forums, books, etc. ) for the last couple of years.<<Best way to learn and understand the marine side of fishkeeping and husbandry>> I find plumbing the most confusing part of it all and was hoping you can take a look at my rudimentary drawing and give me some input, as well as on my tank plans. The tank itself is a 65 gallon AGA reef ready with a 1.25" drain and .75" return. I bought the setup used from a member on one of my forums and he said the drain was an 1" but I measured it at 1.25". The stand, hood and sump were DIY by the former owner. The sump is approximately 20 gallons ( acrylic ) and the hood has two 175w MH and 2 65w PC fixtures along with a fan. I have an Ocean Runner 2500 (3/4" outlet - 900 gph/10.5 ft ) for the return pump and am using 2 Koralia #3's and 1 Koralia #2 for flow ( I might cut out one of them when everything is up and running as I didn't realize how big they are when I purchased them ). The skimmer is an Octopus NW 150 recirculating model bought with the gate valve and mesh mod.s. I plan on gravity feeding it as one of my main goals is to keep power consumption down ( I will probably only use one MH bulb for starters since I originally planned on T5 but the setup was too good a deal to pass up ). <<sounds like a nice setup you have purchased there>> I have since changed the plans from the drawing so that the vertical pipe off the tee on the drain is going to the skimmer and the horizontal run is going to the refugium, and have turned the skimmer around accordingly ( I can redraw it and send it in if you'd like ). The skimmer will sit behind the sump and there will be rock rubble in that section where it drains to. In the refugium I will have some LR and macro growing ( for nutrient export and to feed any herbivores, as well as grow 'pods ). I don't know how deep a sand bed will be in the 'fuge but I do plan on having a 4" sand bed composed of oolithic/sugar sized aragonite sand and seeding it with some from an established tank. <<Sounds all great so far>> My plumbing questions are regarding the diameter of pipe as the previous owner had the drain coupled to a larger diameter pipe via a ?bushing? and I am not sure if this is necessary for my purposes. <<See no reason not to have it there, its fine>> I am also not sure if my valves and unions are correctly placed. <<Yes, they are fine. The valves are used to control flow to the refugium and inlet section (your skimmer return)>> Furthermore, the manual for the OR states that if it is being used as a return pump with hard PVC pipe, it is best to use a short run of flexible tubing to connect the pump to pipe to reduce noise. How would I go about doing that? <<Yes, it is a wise idea to have some flexi hose joining the rigid pipe work to the pump, this can be achieved by used a barbed fitment from the PVC pipe work and an attachment is available for connecting the flexi hose to the Ocean Runner pump>> I also bought a grounding probe. Does that have to go into the display or can it go into the sump? <<Either will be fine, many chose the display>> Regarding livestock. I plan on keeping peaceful fish, leaning towards smaller species with perhaps one larger centerpiece specimen, and the invertebrates will be mostly LPS and softies. My list, which has to be finalized, will be derived from this list ( as of now anyways ): 1.) Pair of percula or ocellaris clownfish ( preferably captive bred) 2.) Trio of pajama cardinals 3.) 1 or 2 Jawfish/shrimp gobies along with a shrimp goby ( I am leaning towards a yasha goby but since they are pricy I am looking at Jawfish and other shrimp gobies) 4.) Firefish 5.) One or two of the citron/clown goby types 6.) Dwarf angel ( I know these are a risk with cnidarians and have yet to decide on whether I will take the risk but a flame or coral beauty angel would make a nice center piece for this tank)<<beautiful fish, but yes, certainly a risk>> 7.) Small, reef safe wrasse is a possibility if the angel won't work. What do you think would be a good community made up from this list? Do you have any other suggestions I should consider? <<I worked out at about 75gals display tank size. From your selection above, all are nice and relatively peaceful fish. Its a nice range/selection of fish you have chosen, and mixtures of the above are certainly fine. One thing to note though is to ensure a nice tight fitting lid is used as couple can be jumpers when stressed>> Regarding the Jawfish/shrimp gobies I have read alternatively that they need fine sand for sifting through but that they also need coarse substrate and shells for building their tunnels. Which is true? <<Jawfish do require a fine substrate, however Goby/Shrimp combo's do require a more coarse grade of substrate>> Should I just scatter around a mixture of small shells and a handful of coarse substrate for them to use? <<A lot of people will tend to tailor make a specific area of the aquarium with the more coarse sand/shell mixture with a view that the shrimp/Goby will take on this area. The same goes for Jawfish, where people will specifically have a deep area of sand in the tank for the fish to live in...Hopefully>> Any specific recommended order of introducing the fish? <<From your research of fish, it will be best for you to add them with a view on their aggression. Add the least aggressive fish first, and the most aggressive last. If done the other way around, the most aggressive fish will take its fair share or territory, more than what it would do if added last>> Do you have any thoughts on using GARF Grunge for seeding my sand bed and/or 'fuge? <<Its a popular product to use these days, others choose to get some live sand from an established reef and add that to the new sand to introduce and kick start life>> For rock, I plan on using 50 lbs of Marco dry rocks ( after curing them ) along with a few pounds of live rock to seed them. Would I be better off using cured or uncured LR to seed my tank? <<Cured live rock is always best choice there>> I guess that's all the questions ( for now ). Thanks again, Eric <<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>

Reef Circulation Question 12/28/07
Good Day Crew,
<Hello Eric.>
(I'm sorry if a similar question came through just now, but my email system "crashed" right before the email went off and I'm not sure if you got it..)
Thank you (to everyone) for a truly beneficial service. I read almost every night, sometimes for hours at a time. My reef tank would not be even close to what it is now without this site. (It’s now my ‘Healthy Obsession”). I would also have no idea what an Aqua C Remora is (Excellent Product by the way).
<Very nice to hear of your success.>
My question is as follows: I am looking to improve my circulation. I currently have a 55 gallon (standard 4ft length) Reef which consists mostly of Polyps and moderate flow requiring Corals.
I have three Powerheads, the skimmer, and a Whisper 60 Filter (changed and cleaned often to prevent build up).
-My first PH is a MaxiJet 1200 which is located on the left side wall, facing center.
-My second PH is an AquaClear 70, located on the right side wall, also facing center.
-The third is a MaxiJet 600 with a rotating deflector attachment. This is facing “front and center”
The problem with this setup is that the MJ 1200 vastly overpowers the other two, and the stream is such that it creates a high level of Laminar flow. (The AC 70 is old, and although it has been cleaned thoroughly, is very weak, only producing about ¼ of what it’s supposed to.
<OK>
I have a few options. The first is that I could ditch the powerheads (most anyway) and add an Ocean Runner PH2500 (650 gph) which I have that’s not being used, and attach that to a PVC pipe system, where I could run it along the top of the aquarium. I could drill/etc. holes in the pipe so it would spray downward. I could add a few other powerheads for supplemental flow, but this should be fine, correct?
<This could work, by the time you add the plumbing to the pump you will likely have less flow than what is currently in your tank.>
I figure if you don’t include the skimmer and filter, it’s still over 10x per hour of circulation.
<It is surprising how much the plumbing will reduce the flow of the pump, perhaps even in half with a spray bar.>
Another option would be to keep the existing powerheads except for the AC 70 and replace that with another MJ 1200, and put these toward the top of the aquarium.
<Yes.>
Out of those two, which is the best?
<For my time and money, adding another MJ1200 is what I would do.>
Also, if you have any suggestion that I’m not thinking of, I would love to hear it.
I have been reading a ton, and discussing it with fellow reef enthusiasts who seem to think the first idea is better than the second.
<More and more reefers are getting away from powerheads and going to closed loops. If you don’t mind the look of the powerheads they give you a more adjustable flow pattern and are cheaper to run. It is a matter of personal preference. I own the particular Ocean Runner pump you have and love it. But, the two MJ1200’s will definitely outflow the pump.>
Once again,
Thank you for the help.
Eric
<Welcome, I hope this helps you decide, Scott V.>

Tank setup help, Reef  12/26/07
Hello Crew!
<Hello Patrick.>
First off let me begin by telling you how thankful I am to have stumbled upon a site dedicated in helping hobbyist in achieving their goals. I have found your site a great help in the decisions I make for my tank and have had great success.
<Happy the site has helped.>
I currently have a 135 gallon reef setup built into a wall with 240lbs of live rock, and a DSB. It is lit with three 250w 14k MH. Its been established for about 6 months. Both sides of the tank are viewable so all the plumbing is located on the sides of the tank. Due to the design of the stand, the sumps below consist of two 20 gallon tanks joined in the middle by three 1 1/2'' pvc pipes. The water flows into the refugium, then through a poly filter, along the pipes into the skimmer area, through another poly filter, then to the return pump.
I want to upgrade the tank as far as size goes. I have found a 170 gallon that is almost the same size footprint as the old, only a tad more depth and a lot more height.
<OK>
There are about 30 corals in the tank, mostly LPS consisting of Euphyllia, elegance, chalices, and blastos. I have a 60 gallon qt I can keep them in during the tank exchange, but it only employs PC lighting, a heater, and a couple high flow powerheads for circulation. How long can these species withstand these conditions?
<Long enough for the move.>
Also, since the tank is built into the wall, the exchange would be fairly quick.
<Good.>
The sand bed is a 6'' DSB in the old tank, but should I use his same sand in the new one? A nutrient spike is my main concern.
<Assuming your sandbed is good now, I would remove the top half, rinse the bottom half, place the bottom half in the new tank with the original top half placed on top of it.>
I am considering starting the sand bed over with new sand, along with some old sand to "seed" the new bed, but what ratio should I use if I should go about that?
<A sprinkle of sand to 50/50 mix, or even more.>
Would I have to wait for the sand bed to establish all over again before adding the corals?
<No, I am assuming that you do not have an established bed in your quarantine tank either. I would just make the move.>
Would switching setups in a day be too much stress for the corals?
<Quick one day move will be the best.>
If the rock is kept out of water during the switch, would the die off cause high nutrient levels?
<I would keep it in water, easy enough with a few $5 Rubbermaid bins.>
Should I upgrade the lighting if the new tank dimensions are 72x18x30? I’m looking to start keeping SPS but I’m hoping I can get away by placing them toward the top.
<Your lighting will be fine.>
The levels in the tank is currently:
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10
Ca 480
Alk 9 dKH
Mg 1500
pH 8.1-8.4
Phos. undetectable
Is all this water transferable to the new tank?
<Yes, reuse/save all that you can. Your Ca and Mg need not be quite so high.>
Sorry for the overwhelming amount of questions, I just want to make sure I do this right the first time around. Thank you for the help!
Patrick in Cali
<Welcome, sounds like you will do just fine, have fun, Scott V.>

Metal in reef aquaria 12/19/07
Greetings Crew
<Hello Mark.>
I am in the process of starting a new 100 gal reef and would like to get it right the first time with your help. The lighting is installed, a new Euro-Reef skimmer is in the sump, and I'm ready for live rock.
<Congratulations>
What I'm not sure about is the use of metallic objects in reef systems.
The metallic objects I refer to include a titanium heater, a submersible Mag 12 pump which utilizes stainless steel screws to fasten the pump chamber to the motor, and an Aqua UV ultraviolet sterilizer. The sterilizer is my main concern here as it is equipped with a sleeve wiper actuated by a 1/4" rod about 8" long. All these items have been used in a previous setup with no appreciable corrosion so the stainless is of good quality.
I have always made a point of avoiding metal fasteners and clamps where contact with the water is likely but these items are supposedly made for this application.
<Good practice.>
Do I have cause for concern?
<No, these items can be used no problem.>
Thanks,
Mark P.
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

Reef Start-up 11/4/07
I am getting a 75 gal aquarium. I am looking to do a reef set up (first one) with LR, LS, soft easy corals, and docile fish.
<Welcome to reefing!>
I will approx 2" of substrate and plenty of live rock. I have a bit of experience with the marine set-up; however I have been researching the sump set-up and am a bit confused. With using all I mentioned above, will the tank cycle itself, or will I need to add a cocktail shrimp?
<Your substrate should be either shallower (.5 inch or so, will trap less detritus) or deeper ( 4-6 inches, provides some denitrification). Cycling a reef tank with live rock has more to do with curing the rock rather than the traditional cycling you are probably familiar with. The site has a great article on cycling live rock, no shrimp required to cycle.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/Live_Rock/live_rock.htm >
The tank is coming with a wet/dry sump with bio balls. I understand bio balls are not what you want filtering your reef tank. <They are not. > Am I correct to use live rock and live sand (refugium) where the bio balls would go?
<Yes, I would also recommend lighting it on a reverse cycle from your main system and including a macroalgae such as Chaetomorpha. This will provide a more stable ph and some nutrient export.>
Should I continue to use the blue filter pad to filter the tank water prior to the tank water entering the sump where the live rock sits?
<Some people do, some don’t. I don’t. If you do use it just be sure to clean the pad quite frequently.>
Should the protein skimmer pump the skimmed water into this live rock compartment or the return compartment?
<If you can I would try to process your water skimmer, refugium, and then return. This will let your pod population from your refugium enter your main tank without interference from the skimmer.>
Would you recommend using a UV sterilizer at first, or at all?
<I am not a fan of UV sterilizers. They have their uses, I just feel that the average tank benefits little from them.>
Do I need to rinse the activated carbon before I place it into the sump?
<I would, just to remove dust.>
My other 2 tanks were FOWLR with bio balls in the sump, but I want what's best and easier for my new tank. I plan on taking my time but I
want to set it up and cycle it correctly first.
Thanks in advance,
Jason Wagner
<You’re welcome, it sounds like you are well on your way to a successful reef tank. Thank you, Scott V.>

Re: Reef Start-up 11/8/07
Thanks for the speedy response!!
<Welcome.>
Great advice, that is what I will do. I will be starting my tank up on Friday I'm sure I will have a few more questions for you in the next coming weeks.
<No problem.>
For now, have you heard of using panty hose as filter bags for carbon? If so, would you recommend?
Jason
<Yes, they can be used assuming that they are clean. No lotions, detergents, perfumes, etc. The thing about nylons (and the nylon sold specifically for aquariums) is that they tend to trap air and the water tends to just flow around them. I use and highly recommend this Rio product
http://www.petmountain.com/product/cartridges/510039/rio-pumps-rio-bio-bead-cartridge-1-pack-110.html
It comes with media, just dump it and use your carbon (use a fairly high quality carbon). It is completely reusable, does not trap air, allows flow through the carbon and costs about five bucks. Have fun Scott V.>
Thanks very much for the information.
<You are very welcome.>

55 Gallon Reef Tank... setup    10/22/07
Hello,
<Hi Adam>
I have been reading your site for many many months now as I started my first reef tank around 8 months ago and am trying to learn everything that I possibly can about the hobby. I have a few questions concerning my reef setup.
<OK>
First question is: I recently added a large piece of live rock from a LFS, before the addition of the rock, I had very little problem with algae growth, a small patch of hair algae on one piece of live rock and some in the overflow box. After the addition of the rock I have had a Cyanobacteria outbreak. It is centralized on the sand surrounding the newly placed live rock. I have vacuumed and performed water changes for around a month now trying to rid myself of it. Tank parameters are all optimum (zero nitrates, zero nitrites, zero ammonia, PH 8.2, I have not tested for phosphates in a while but last I checked it was minute, Salinity is 1.023-1.024, I use Bionic as my calcium and buffer, Water changes performed with a 5 Stage RO/DI at 8ppm, and all water aerated for 24+ hours. I have a 45 gallon sump with a trickle filter (bioballs), an ASM G-3 Protein skimmer producing dark green mush and a separate compartment with a refugium. Various macro algae and several pieces of smaller live rock in the refugium) I still have blue green algae. My guess is circulation. I use a Mag 7 for the return pump and it has only a single outlet into the tank. There are three power heads 2 190 GPH and 1 Maxi Jet 1200. I have been looking at various "upgrades" for this problem. One idea was to go with a Tunze Stream 6101, a SCWD on the return line, and purchase an upgrade kit I have found for the Maxi Jets that changes them over to a propeller style power head and says it produces around 1600 GPH of flow. I would place the Tunze and the upgraded Maxi Jet at opposing diagonal angles with the Tunze on a lower flow setting. (I am thinking of going with the Tunze because I am currently finishing the basement and am incorporating a 210 gallon tank into it, I would like to use as much of the existing equipment from the 55 gallon as possible. Hence the LARGE ASM G-3). Would the Tunze and upgraded Maxi Jet produce too much flow in the small tank and turn it into a hurricane of sorts? Or should I try to use a series of 3-4 Maxi-Jets (maybe a couple with the upgrade kit) and a Wave timer?
<With your future plans, I'd probably go with the Tunze. This model has a flow rate of 660 to 3170gph. You could use it at the lower flow rates for your 55. Since this pump does not produce a high flow rate in the core area of the water jet, it will not give you the hurricane effect.>
I know this will depend on my inhabitants. Currently the 55 gallon has approximately 50-55 lbs of live rock and a 4-5 inch sand bed. All larger pieces of rock and not too much rubble. It houses some pulsing Xenia, a Frogspawn, a large Pink Leather (similar to a devil's hand?), Moon Coral, a Pink Brain, Green Ricordea and some Star Polyps. Fish wise: there are 2 Perculas, a Bar Goby, a Watchman Goby with Pistol Shrimp, 2 Green Chromis, a Yellow Tang, and a Neon Goby. Also a myriad of cleaner crew creatures. I have thought of trying some Acro frags and maybe a small clam (that could grow larger in the big tank when finished), but am afraid that the T-5's being utilized ( 2- 55watt actinics and 2 -55 watt 10K's) are not enough and that the bio-load in the tank may be getting to great to house any more animals. (please advise?)
<Yes, will not be enough light for clams and Acro's.>
Last question, I have a pink and blue brain coral (It is bright pink with a camo blue pattern on it, I had never seen one of this pattern before and jumped on it after researching brain coral care.) Despite my research I have noticed that even though during the day the coral is large, expanded and VERY fleshy during the day, at night when it opens to feed (tentacles displayed) the tissue seems to be receding around the rim? (I was going to attach a .JPEG but could not get a good picture due to glare.) I have had the coral now for several months and I thought it was doing excellent. I moved it from mid tank when I noticed the recession a couple of weeks ago. I thought it may have been too close to the leather coral and too close to the lights.
<The two T5's are not enough light for this coral.>
I moved it to the sand bed, but still under full lighting and not in the shade. The recession does not seem to be getting better, but as I said it looks great during the day. Is this just what it should look like normally and I never noticed it, or is there something happening to my favorite coral? ( I spot feed it E.S.V. spray dried plankton 2 - 3 times a week)
<I'd put it closer to the lights and feed meatier foods a couple times a week. Shrimp and clam in a minced preparation works well in this regard. Do feed at night when the tentacles are expanded.>
I have pealed over the Wetwebmedia website and found no information on the upgrade kits for the Maxi Jets, (it is available from Marinedepot.com and is marketed as a Maxi Jet 1600 Upgrade Kit, it has two 5 star reviews, but I am still skeptical) and nothing directly available in the way of the Tunze 6101 in a 55 gallon tank.
<The upgrade kit for the Maxi-Jet's is news to me, but by looking at the kit, I wouldn't be afraid to try one and see how they work. The Tunze 6101 is rated for tanks from 52 to 528 gallons so no worries here. Another alternative for the Maxi-Jets is the use the FLO Rotating Deflector. I use these on my Maxi-Jets and they work quite well. Drs. Foster/Smith has the best prices on these, I believe around nine bucks.>
As I said I would like to be cost effective in my planning, but ultimately I want to do what is right for my tank inhabitants; for this tank is my pride and joy and their happiness is of my utmost concern. :)
<Good to hear this.>
Sorry for the long email, but I have been building up questions since I joined you guys in this great hobby. Almost all of them already answered thanks to you guys and your wonderful site.
<Great, and thank you! James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you,
Adam

Stocking Level/Upgrade Questions, reef  10/13/07
Hi ,
<Hi Gordon>
I have a question regarding some changes I plan to make to my tank and wanted to get your input.
<OK>
Setup, (Quasi-Reef):
75 gallon tank (built-in overflow with two water returns)
20 gallon sump (Lifereef no bioballs)
36 inch Lifereef protein skimmer
2 Little Giant water pumps (model 4-MDQX-SC, 1325gph at 1 foot I'm guessing I get about 1080gph at 6 foot), skimmer and water return
Chiller (keeps the tank between 78 and 79 degrees)
Coralife power compact light with reflector (2 65 watt 10K and two Actinic)
Power heads
Stock:
100 LBS Fiji live rock
No substrate, (wife hates it when it turns green/brown/white)
<I have one of those specie (wife) also.>
Various sponges etc encrusting the live rock
3 Rose Bubble Tip Anemones
Side question here
I noticed in some of the other articles you have that my lighting might not be considered adequate for the BTA‘s. Both were about 6 inches in diameter when I bought them and they are larger now. One split and both halves are now 8 inches in diameter. The one that did not split is about 11 inches in diameter, (dominates one side of the tank, it‘s a monster). I have never seem them completely deflate and even when the tank lights go out they just close down some. Color is good; tentacles are bright rose in color, long and flowing, (they bubble up more at night). Base is white/pink; with bright green coloration throughout (esp. under actinic light) foot/trunk is pink. They have been in the tank for just over 2 years now. I also feed them pieces of silverside every 4-5 days. They readily take food and will enclose the food. The tentacles feel sticky to the touch when I feed them, (nematocyst firing?). They do occasionally move around a bit, just recently replaced my bulbs, so
I guessing that may be why as the light intensity has gone up some. Based on what I‘ve read everything seems to indicate that are healthy and doing well. What do you think?
<By your description, it sure seems like everything is going OK for you. BTA’s do not
require as intense a light as most other anemones. What you have appears to be adequate.>
2 True Percula clowns, (living in the largest BTA and one of the splits)
1 large Bi-color Angel
1 small Yellow Tail Blue Damsel
1 large Three-Stripe Damsel
<Trouble makers.>
1 Dwarf lion
6 large Turbo-grazer snails
1 large Coral Banded Shrimp
1 small polyp rock, (6 small Green Star Polyps and 10 brown Button Polyps), hopefully this will make a good starter. All are fully open and waving in the breeze.
Water parameters are all with acceptable values, except phosphate which is a little high 0.01 to 0.02, (time to change the Phosguard).
Supplements
Iodine, Strontium, Coral Calcium, Coral Vital, Selcon and buffer as needed
I feed silver sides, flakes, brine shrimp frozen, freeze dried Tubifex worms, Mysis shrimp, live brine shrimp on occasion, saltwater pellets, Formula One (frozen), Phytoplankton, powdered and liquid.
My tank has been going strong since March 1999 and I‘m finally happy with it to the point that I want to move forward with my planned growth.
Sorry to get so descriptive, just wanted to make sure you had a good overview.
<Yes, it helps.>
My plans for future expansion over the next year are as follows in the following order:
1. Add another 25-50 lbs of live rock, flat pieces to layer it down to the bottom from my two existing piles of live rock to cover most of the bare bottom. I want to add a variety of different corals/polyps etc and hopefully have them grow to cover this base rock to get a sort of flowing living carpet look. I hate the bare bottom, (ugly, but I‘m not going to win that battle with the wife).
<Too bad, a coral sand bottom does offer a haven for helpful critters to propagate along with aiding in keeping calcium and alkalinity levels up.>
I would like to include pulsing Xenia in this mix.
<A good choice and fast growing.>
Do you have any suggestions on good species to add?
<Mmm, no, not with your present lighting. Your choices seem well balanced.>
3. I think I need to add some more critters as a cleaning crew, but I‘m worried about adding too many as I don‘t want any to starve, plus I‘m concerned about buying a pre-packaged cleaner crew since I have no substrate for them to shuffle through.
<Yes, I’d just add more hermits and snails for now.>
If I get one of the packages some of the mail order houses sell I want to make sure that the species will survive in my environment. I can‘t get them locally as my LFS just doesn‘t carry that kind of quantity, nor at reasonable enough cost. What would you suggest?
<As above.>
4. I would like to add a small school of fish 4-6 I was thinking of Green Chromis, but my wife doesn‘t care for them, she thinks they are too plain. Can you suggest some alternates that will get along with their tank mates?
<There are some nice ones, but with that bar brawler (Three Striped Damsel) you have in there I wouldn’t recommend what I had in mind (Pajama Cardinals).>
I would like add the following after the above