FAQs on Reef Set-Up 11
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reefs By Jennifer Smith,
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Related FAQs: Reef Set-Up
1, Reef Set-Up 2, Reef Set-Up 3, Reef Set-Up 4, Reef Set-Up 5, Reef
Set-Up 6, Reef Set-Up 7,
Reef Set-Up 8, Reef Set-Up 9, Reef Set-Up 10, Reef Set-Up 12, Reef Set-Up 13, Reef Set-Up 14, Reef Set-Up 15, & Reef Tanks, Reef Lighting, Reef Lighting 2, Reef Filtration,
& Reef Livestocking,
Reef Livestocking
2, Reef Feeding,
Reef Disease, Reef Maintenance, Marine System Plumbing, Marine Aquarium Set-Up, Live Rock, Live Sand,
Fish-Only Marine
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Coldwater Systems, Small Systems, Large
Systems, Reef Maintenance,
Biotopic
presentations, Algal Filtration in General, Mud Filtration 1,
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Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1:
Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Reef Rack System 06/06/2008 Hi Bob, <<Andrew
today>> I was looking for a product called Reef Rack Systems. As
I sure you know it, it allows live rock to be stacked. I looked on the
web with no avail. Would you happen to have any info on this product?
Thank you, Joe <<I do not know of a supplier for the Reef Racking
exact product. However, to achieve reef staging, the simple PVC pipe
from places like homedepot.com, which is about 3/4 inch in diameter,
with elbows, makes for a very much cheaper version, and achieves
exactly the same goal. Many many reef aquarist's go down this route
of PVC pipe work for the rack, instead of paying through the nose for
the expensive reef racking or staging. Hope this helps. A
Nixon>>
Nano-Cube HQI Aquarium Kit
5/7/08 Hello WWM Crew, hope you are all well and thank you
for all that you do!! <Doing well here, WWM is a pleasure to be
part of and help out.> I have to downsize (sad I know) my 100
gal to a 30 gal reef tank. Breaks my heart it does. <I bet!>
Although I did look I couldn't find anything on direct
experience with this prepackaged system. Have any of you gotten any
feedback on if this thing and if it's various parts work for
more than a week? <There are many systems similar to this out
and about on the market now (many originate from the same
manufacturer under different labels), all seem to function just
fine.> If so, it would fit my space needs perfectly. Here's
the setup; 150 watt 14000°K HQI metal halide lighting
(4) Nite-Vu LED lighting with separate power cord (2) UL-Listed
Accela Powerheads (266 gph each for a 532 gph total) (2)
Directional flow nozzles (1) Ocean Pulse Duo - Alternating
wavemaker (4) Integrated cooling fans (3,000 RPM's) Counter
current protein skimmer with air pump 3-stage filtration with
removable media basket Center overflow system Designated area for a
heater Flame retardant ABS canopy housing Thermal protector for
canopy (Auto Shut Off protection) I thought I would also add a
small chiller since I'm concerned about temp variations in this
small a volume. <A good idea, the main problem with these
systems is temperature fluctuations with the MH light.> Thanks
again for you time. If you've already done a review of this
system I'm sorry to ask again, please just post the link.
<We do not generally review products per se, just give opinions
when asked. My only other word of advice regarding this system is
the skimmer. The little limewood driven skimmers do work quite
well, just be aware the limewood will require periodic replacement
to keep the skimmer working well. If this is a concern for you
there are many aftermarket skimmers made just for these systems
nowadays. The Tunze Nano DOC being my personal favorite.> Take
care, Joe <Joe, do realize that you can have an amazing tank
even with the smaller volume. Livestock choices, stability and
maintenance routines just become all that much more important with
the smaller tank. Cheers, Scott V.>
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Re: Nano-Cube HQI Aquarium Kit
5/7/08 Hello WWM Crew, hope you are all well and thank you
for all that you do!! <Doing well here, WWM is a pleasure to be
part of and help out.> I have to downsize (sad I know) my 100
gal to a 30 gal reef tank. Breaks my heart it does. <I bet!>
Although I did look I couldn't find anything on direct
experience with this prepackaged system. Have any of you gotten any
feedback on if this thing and if it's various parts work for
more than a week? <There are many systems similar to this out
and about on the market now (many originate from the same
manufacturer under different labels), all seem to function just
fine.> If so, it would fit my space needs perfectly. Here's
the setup; 150 watt 14000°K HQI metal halide lighting
(4) Nite-Vu LED lighting with separate power cord (2) UL-Listed
Accela Powerheads (266 gph each for a 532 gph total) (2)
Directional flow nozzles (1) Ocean Pulse Duo - Alternating
wavemaker (4) Integrated cooling fans (3,000 RPM's) Counter
current protein skimmer with air pump 3-stage filtration with
removable media basket Center overflow system Designated area for a
heater Flame retardant ABS canopy housing Thermal protector for
canopy (Auto Shut Off protection) I thought I would also add a
small chiller since I'm concerned about temp variations in this
small a volume. <A good idea, the main problem with these
systems is temperature fluctuations with the MH light.> Thanks
again for you time. If you've already done a review of this
system I'm sorry to ask again, please just post the link.
<We do not generally review products per se, just give opinions
when asked. My only other word of advice regarding this system is
the skimmer. The little limewood driven skimmers do work quite
well, just be aware the limewood will require periodic replacement
to keep the skimmer working well. If this is a concern for you
there are many aftermarket skimmers made just for these systems
nowadays. The Tunze Nano DOC being my personal favorite.> Take
care, Joe <Joe, do realize that you can have an amazing tank
even with the smaller volume. Livestock choices, stability and
maintenance routines just become all that much more important with
the smaller tank. Cheers, Scott V.> |
Getting Back In To The Hobby...A Lot Has Seemed To
Change (Indeed!) -- 04/21/08 HI gents, <<Some very sharp
ladies here as well'¦and hello!>> Michael here, and I am
setting up a brand new tank. <<Neat>> The tank is ordered,
dimensions 60x18x30 flat back hex. <<Ah'¦so about
125-gallons or so (taking in to account the 'Hex'
design)>> I am going to be DIY-ing the stand and a three
chambered sump rough dimensions 48x24x18 and probably will be half
filled when running. <Okay>> The first chamber will be getting
the water supply from the main tank and will house the skimmer
(suggestions on type/brand/model). <<Euro-Reef is my current
fave'¦an RS-80 or maybe RS-100 would do fine here>> The
second chamber will house a deep sand bed and some live rock and
possibly some algae (suggestion of type) <<Chaetomorpha gets my
vote for its 'user-friendliness'>> and will be lit during
the main tank dark times. And finally the third chamber will have the
heaters, calcium reactor (suggestion needed), <<I have/use one
from Precision Marine'¦the CR-422 would serve your system, but
do also take a look at the offerings from Knop'¦and the new
line of Octopus reactors with 'screw-tops' looks interesting as
well>> and return pump. Lighting will come from a Current metal
halide/CF fixture about 600watts) hanging from the ceiling. My goal is
to have the tank turning over as much as the built in overflows can
handle (not sure how much this will be, at least 12x I am guessing).
<<For 1' drains figure about 300gph per'¦700gph or
so for 1.5' drains>> The tank itself will have between 90 and
125 lbs of LR <<Take care not to overload with
rock'¦leave plenty of space for fish to swim, corals to grow,
water to move about'¦ And rather than the typical (and
boring?) 'rock wall''¦consider a little researching to
replicate a particular 'niche' from the reef, and stocking with
animals found re>> and 120 LBS of LS and have several types of
soft and hard corals and maybe 5-10 damsels <<Choose species
carefully here as most Damsels will not get along in these numbers for
the long term, in this size system>> and a tang or two and a
clown fish or two. <<But hopefully no Anemone mixed in with your
sessile inverts>> I am hoping this stock of fish will not be too
much and that my setup will be sufficient. <<The stocking density
looks fine'¦though you may want to consider a more
'cooperative' group of small fishes other than the
damsels>> Please help with suggestion on a high to medium skimmer
and a descent calcium reactor. <<Have done so>> Going to
send in pictures of the setup process and at various stages and the
finally setup once done. <<Sounds good'¦look forward to
seeing it>> Michael Wade York, SC <<Eric
Russell'¦Columbia, SC>>
Setting Up a 113g Reef Cube -- 04/09/08 Hi all,
<<Hello Michael>> Maybe I should divide this into a couple
different emails since it's questions involving 2 different future
set ups. If that's the case, feel free to edit and split however
you see fit. <<Mmm, well'¦it's all here as
'one' now, so let's see how it goes>> I value your
website and your advice very much and would like to thank you in
advance!!! <<Quite welcome>> Okay, here's the deal, I
currently have 2 mixed reef tanks, a 46 and a 75. My 46 has 2X96 watt
PC lighting and my 75 has a 6 bulb 48" Tek 5 fixture that I love!!
<<Metal Halide is my current fave'¦but admit the T5
lighting is quite nice>> I'm in the process of setting up a
113 gallon cube tank. I purchased a used tank that measures 36"
long, 25" front to back and 29" high. I plan for this tank to
be predominately SPS but will also have some LPS and Clams. <<I
see>> My first question is about lighting. I realize that with a
depth of 29" I'll most likely need to go with MH lighting.
<<Will provide the most 'bang for the buck' in the space
allowed, yes>> I am absolutely have to go with 400 watts or if
250 watts will be enough. <<250w lamps will serve quite
well'¦I suggest two>> I do want to be able to keep Acros
but am more than willing to keep the higher light demanding corals
higher in the tank. <<Is always a good plan regardless of the
wattage used>> I plan to keep Acros in the upper portion of the
tank, lower light demanding SPS, such as Montipora in the middle level
and LPS towards the bottom. < I think it is a mistake to believe
Montipora species won't appreciate the same light levels as we
assume Acropora species 'require.' Many Montipora species,
especially branching varieties, will grow faster and color-up better
under intense lighting, in my experience. But even so, the 250w halides
will provide sufficient light re for the Montipora at 'middle
level''¦ and for many Acropora species as well>>
I'll use the same philosophy with my clams. Will 250 watts be
enough? <<Yes>> I know absolutely nothing at all about MH
lighting and have soooo much to learn. I see different types of
ballasts, magnetic, electronic, etc. I see mogul and DE bulbs, I see
pulse start....non pulse start...German bulbs.....I'm sooo
confused...lol. I don't know what any of this means at all!!
<<Can be daunting'¦but do start reading here and among
the links in blue at the tops of the pages. Formulate some specific
questions and give me a holler if you wish>> I'm assuming,
because of the dimensions of this tank that I'll be able to hang a
single pendant above the tank. <<You could, though this will
limit the numbers/species you can keep as light toward the ends of the
tank will be quite dim>> That brings up the question of how to
supplement actinic lighting with either PC or T5s. <<Not
necessary'¦but if you wish, either will do fine>>
I'm also considering building a canopy and installing a MH retro
pendant and supplemental actinics. <<A fine idea>> Any and
all suggestions or advice would be wonderful. <<Do some reading,
and then come back with more specific questions if necessary>> I
am still in the planning stages of this tank and plan to drill it for a
closed-loop system as well as for an overflow and return for a
sump/refugium I'll be building. <<Excellent>> Any
advice on placement, number and size of holes would be great!!
<<Much to be stated'¦ Read here
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm) and here
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbretfaq2.htm) and come back with specific
questions about what you want to do>> Drilling brings up another
question. I've heard and read that you can determine if your tank
is all tempered by looking at the glass through polarized sunglasses.
Any advice on this? <<Don't think I've heard/know about
this. Most all production tanks of size and of recent manufacture will
have at the least a tempered bottom panel. I would think your tank
would probably be OK to drill through a side panel'¦but I
suggest you contact the manufacturer to be sure>> From what I can
tell, there are no markings at all on any of the glass panes.
<<New tanks would have tempered panels marked (usually a
sticker), but since your tank is used'¦'¦>> I
sure don't want to shatter my tank...lol.
<<Agreed'¦can give one quite a start>> Also, is
there any way to determine if this tank has ever had copper based
medicine used in it? <<Mmm'¦try adding some
water'¦let it stand a while'¦test the water>>
If so, does that make it impossible to use it as a reef tank?
<<Maybe not'¦ If you detect copper, you may be able to
remove it (depending on how much trouble you wish to go to) with a
proprietary copper remover (e.g. -- Seachem's Cupramine)>>
Now on to my next project...The above mentioned cube will replace my 46
gallon bowfront and the 46 gallon will be turned into a Seahorse tank.
I'm still in the beginning stages of learning about Seahorses as
well. I understand there a HUGE difference between reef and seahorse
tanks when it comes to flow, temperature and such. <Indeed>>
I'm thinking that I'll utilize the current PC lighting that I
have on the 46. I'll cut way back on flow by removing the modified
MJ1200s and replacing them with...I don't know. I've heard that
it's not a good idea to have any power heads in a seahorse tank.
<<As weak swimmers, such devices can be harmful if employed
without some thought to diffusing flow/protecting intakes, yes>>
This tank has a HOB CPR Aquafuge, the large size. It also has an AquaC
Remora HOB Skimmer. Will these 2 units provide enough flow? <<I
would think so>> They both have the standard pumps. With these in
place, I don't have room to add a HOB box type power filter.
I've used the HOB power filters such as AC100s and turned them into
mini fuges by removing the filter media and replacing with Chaeto. This
would supplement flow but there's just no room. I could use a
canister filter to supplement flow if needed. Any and all suggestions
for this would be great too!! <<I very much suggest you visit the
Seahorse forums for better detailed info than I can provide
(http://www.seahorse.com/option,com_joomlaboard/Itemid,218/func,showcat/catid,2/)>>
Last question....for now....I would really like this tank to house 2
species of seahorses. <<Not usually recommended>> I
understand that different species have different temperature
requirements and such. If I were to get 2 species from the same region,
would I be okay? If I'm unable to house 2 different species and
still provide proper conditions for both, I won't. What species
would you recommend for someone who does have experience with reef
tanks but none with seahorses? I'd also like to house 2 of whatever
species I have. <<Ocean Rider offers excellent 'tank
raised' specimens that are good choices for novice 'horse
keepers.' I suggest you contact them
(http://www.seahorse.com/contact/Carol_Ann_Cozzi-Schmarr/) and let
Carol advise you on your selection>> Again, thank you so much for
any information, suggestions or advice you're able to provide. You
guys are awesome!! Sincerely, Michael <<Happy to assist, Michael.
Be chatting, EricR>>
Moving up to a 110 gallon system... reading re stkg.,
canister filters/reef 3/15/08 Hello Crew, <Cinnamon,
let me in!> I have been a fan of your site since I found it. Great
advice. <Thanks> Here in my question. I currently have a 60
gallon reef system. I am running a Marineland Emperor Bio-Wheel 400
Power Filter, a Aqua C Remora Protein Skimmer with Maxijet 1200 Pump
and a Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic
lighting system. Two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads and One 200 watt heater. I
also have about 60 to 80 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed.
The current residents of the 60 gallon, (listed below) will be
relocating to the 110 gallon mentioned below. Except for the tomato
clowns and the Yellow Belly Blue Damsel. They will be going back to the
LFS. 1 yellow tang 4in 2 tomato clowns 1 Lyretail Anthias 3" 1
Yellow Belly Blue Damsel 1 Coral Beauty Angelfish 4" 2 Scarlet
Cleaner Shrimp 1 Fire Shrimp 2 Serpent Starfish 1 Hawaiian Feather
Duster 15 assorted snails 1 Long tentacle anemone and 1 short tentacle
Several different types of mushrooms, polyps and Zoanthids. I purchased
the 110 gallon tank, (48 x 30 x 18) with no overflow, to be my new reef
system. My plan is to run a Eheim 2028 Professionel II Canister Filter,
<Mmm, good product... I use them on my FW tanks... but am not such a
fan for marine... part. reef set-ups. Please see WWM re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marcanfiltuse.htm> two Hydor Koralia 3 -
850GPH powerheads, Aqua C Remora Pro Protein Skimmer with Mag 3 Pump,
two Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200 Watt Heater and the Current
Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system
which is on my current system. I know my current lighting system will
need to be upgraded at some point, but do you think I will be able to
go with this one for now? <If you can arrange your stinging-celled
life to be about the same depth of water as currently> I will also
have about 75 to 100 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed. Any
recommendations would be helpful? <Deeper, finer substrate is
better... also posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm and the
linked files above.> I would also like to add the following resident
to the new system, if you approve? I do not want to overload my system.
2 Maroon Clownfish 1 Blonde Naso Tang. I know he will need to be in a
larger system in a couple of years. <Mmm, no... immediately. I would
not keep a Naso species in anything less than six feet long/wide...
See... WWM... re...> Already planning on a 180 system. 1 Full size
angel? <... Not a good idea> Hardy and reef safe any suggestions?
<Posted...> I know there is no guarantee on it being reef safe. 1
Blue Jaw Trigger or Niger Trigger? A group of schooling fish. Any
suggestions? <Reading. Bob Fenner>
Re: Setting Up 110 Gallon Reef System 03/21/2008
Hello Again Crew, <<G'Morning, Andrew today>> This is
Ron. A.K.A. the Mystery Man... Thanks for the advice. I have attached
my first inquiry email, I sent to you. I want to make sure I have
everything right before I make my purchase of equipment and livestock.
I apologize in advance, if I am being repetitive. O. K. here we go.
<<No need to apologise>> Equipment I am going with for this
110 gallon future reef: RENA Filstar XP 3 Canister Filter. I am not
going to use the Emperor 400. If that is alright? <<I see down
below your going for 120lbs of live rock in a 110 gal tank. With this
amount of live rock, a filter is not need as the rock will provide your
filtration. However, if adding a filter is your choice, then the XP3 is
a good one to choose>> Aqua C Pro with Mag pump protein skimmer.
<<Great skimmer>> 120 lbs or more of live rock.
<<Good>> CaribSea Aragamax Sugar Sized Sand 2 in. depth.
<<Good>> 2 Hydro Koralia 3 (850 GPH) This gives me 1700
GPH. I was thinking 1 Hydro Koralia 3 (850 GPH) and 1 Hydro Koralia 2
(600 GPH)? I do want to blow the DSB around? <<As this is to be a
reef, you'll need around about 2600GPH water circulation, so,
combinations of the Hydors will achieve this>> 2 Aquarium Systems
Visi-Therm 200 Watt Heaters. <<Good> Lighting supplied with a
Current Orbit (2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting
system. <<Good>> I will move the soft coral to the upper
part of the tank and the anemones are coming out (LFS gift). I will
upgrade the lighting within the next few months. <<in my opinion
this lighting is not good enough for anemone's. I high powered T5
or Metal Halide should be used for them>> That's it as far as
equipment. I hope? Any more suggestions will be welcomed. <<All
seem fine to me>> As far as livestock, for this future reef tank.
No more tangs. As you advised me, in your previous reply. Is there any
kind of show fish I can have? Full size Angel, Butterfly, etc.? What
about some kind of schooling fish? What kind would you suggest and how
many? <<There is a lot of fish you can have in there, but of
course, compatibility with the corals is the harder part. It is
unfortunate that most of the real "show" fish are not
completely compatible with corals. Angels and butterflies being two of
them>> Thanks Again. We are out here and we are listening.....
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
"New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium 03/11/2008 I have
inherited a "standard" size (48" long) & had a
few questions about the setup. Only up one week since moved but
from existing tank had ten gallons water & balance was RO
saltwater from LFS. Everything tested good @ LFS one week later.
ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, PH, salinity Currently: 50+ Pounds
live rock, 2 Clown Fish, 1 Sailfin Tang, 1 Anemone
(unidentified), 1 Mushroom coral (about 3 x 6 inches).
<<Some observations at this point. These fish should not
really be in this tank as i imagine it cannot of cycled within
two weeks. The Sailfin tang need a far larger home than this
current tank and the anemone should not be in a new tank>>
Wet Dry Trickle Filter (LFS & prior owner recommended running
w- out bio-balls because of amount of rock,) Excalibur Skimmer in
sump, Hang on filter (LFS recommended not using, said no need, it
had charcoal pouch & mechanical media. I thought the extra
flow would be good, they told me it wouldn't be enough to
help so why use. <<Any additional flow will help>>
Also advised me removing charcoal <<Activated
carbon>> from the trickle filter, which I did &
replaced w-Purigen pouch in trickle filter), Fluidized Bed Filter
(wasn't in use & I haven't set up, should I?)
<<No need to use the fluidized filter>> Lighting,
here is where I really need some advice, I don't want to be
limited with what I can add as things progress. Currently only
one 65w Corallife, there were two 40w fluorescents I can't
get to function so I am trying to make the correct lighting
choice on a budget. Looking @ 48" Corallife 4x65W Compact
Fluorescent Retrofit
http://www.coralreefsupply.com/index.php?aquarium=detail&detail=1001
which I could supplement w- Nova T5 28 watts per but I read that
the lumen output was equivalent to a standard 40w.
http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/power_nova.htm Or
http://coralsplus.3dcartstores.com/48-4X96-Watt-PCCF-Retrofit-Kit_p_1850-2798.html
4x96 Watt PC/CF Retrofit Kit 384 total watts. I'm hoping you
will say the 4x65 would be sufficient but from my research
doesn't seem likely. <<Out of the lighting you've
listed, i would choose
http://coralsplus.3dcartstores.com/48-4X96-Watt-PCCF-Retrofit-Kit_p_1850-2798.html.
If you don't want limitations on what you want to keep, you
can search around and find a Metal halide lighting unit. This
would certainly be your best option>> How about flow ? I
couldn't find the GPM on the return pump from my trickle
filter, have removed my hang on filter and have one
"powerhead" Not sure if that is correct term for this
item. Looks like it is designed only for water movement, hangs by
3 suction cups w- a flat diverter that swivels to adjust the
flow. I would think I would need something in the opposite corner
as well. I've seen a photo of something that actually looked
like a standard house fan as far as the blade & cage.
Attractive @ least. Don't remember where I saw or the brand.
How many GPM should I be moving in addition to the trickle filter
? <<Without you providing specific equipment models, i
cannot give you what gph the devices are. With that in mind, flow
wise, you want to be aiming for around 1400 gph water
circulation.>> Thank You <<Hope the above helps.
Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>
Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium 03/12/2008
Thank you so much ! ! ! <<no problem>> I wouldn't
have put the livestock in myself, but they came w- the purchase.
I bought the aquarium on Craig's List w- the intent of
setting up for Discus & when I went to p/u I realized I was
going to need a crash course in marine systems. I rushed out
& bought two books & have spent a tremendous amount of
time on the web. Your site has been the most helpful by far. You
are providing an amazing service to the community. <<Thank
you>> I found the circulation pumps after I sent you the
msg, they are Hydor Koralia and now I know what size to buy !
http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/pumps_koralia.htm
<<Ahhh.. good choice of pump / powerhead there>> I
spoke w- my LFS & they will let me bring them the Sailfin for
store credit @ 25 cents on the dollar. That sounded very fair
& he can have a better home. 23" yikes, currently he is
only about 4" <<this is good then, it will be better
off in a bigger home>> Thanks for all the help & all
you do. Aidan <<Good luck, hope all turns out well. A
Nixon>>
Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium
03/14/2008 Thank you, was hoping maybe you could respond to
some of the questions & comments I sent GARF as well ?
<<Added some comments into the email text below that you
sent to GARF.>> <<Thanks, hope this helps. A
Nixon>> Thanks again ! Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef
Aquarium 03/14/2008 Good morning, <<Good evening, Andrew
today>> Was hoping I could receive your expert advice once
again ? <<Shall try>> Here is a copy of an e-mail I
sent to Geothermal Aquaculture Research Lab in Boise this AM. I
have also included my prior e-mails to you @ the bottom for
reference if needed. One thing I forgot to ask them is if they
& now you think I am on the right track, is this GARF safe to
add w- the existing livestock or should they or it be quarantined
in anyway? <<i would only acclimatize the hermits /
snails>> I am pretty sure you are familiar w- the product
but here is a link to the site just in case.
http://www.garf.org/reefjanitors.html <<yes, seen this
before>> Also I do have concerns about heat once the new
lights are running, I am currently right @ 80 (assuming the cheap
little thermometer in there is reasonably accurate) I don't
know why it would be so high though, ambient temperature is
70-75, has open back canopy, about 6 inches off wall, piping is
matched to pump port size. Trickle filter I thought helped w-
heat dispersion. Current lighting is a Corallife 65w 50/50, I
have an additional 4x65 50/50 Corallife retro on the way.
<<Nothing excessive to cause temp rises. Devices inside the
tank also contribute to tank temp>> Again, thanks in
advance for all you do !! Aidan From: Stuart, Aidan Sent:
Thursday, March 13, 2008 8:09 AM To: 'Leroy@garf.org'
Subject: GARF Grunge Good Morning, I inherited a marine aquarium
& am in the process of giving myself a crash course. 55G, has
been set up about 2-1/2 weeks w- 10 gallons of original water
& the balance from LFS. Ammonia, Nitrate & Nitrites all
consistently test zero. There is I would estimate about 30-40
pounds of live rock & about 1-1/2 - 2" of live sand from
the original aquarium. Inhabitants: Sailfin Tang (my LFS will
take him, he is small now but since will outgrow this tank see no
reason to keep him) 2 Clowns 1 Anemone (again LFS will take, want
coral & have been advised I shouldn't have this w- coral)
1 Mushroom Coral I would like to eventually have a nice fish /
coral mixture. Current Lighting is a 65W Corallife 50/50 but I
have ordered an additional retrofit 4x65W Corallife 50/50 which
will give me 3 sets of lights available to have on different
timers. 2 50/50 @ 130w & one 50/50 @ 65w for a total
available of 325. Have a wet/dry trickle filter w- mat &
Purigen only (no bio-balls) that has a 500GPM flow, also 2
Koralia circulation pumps on order (600 GPM per) & a skimmer
in the sump. As long as this aquarium was set up prior to my
receiving (6 years, but I don't know how long the rock was
in) I would have expected much more coralline on the rock &
overflow wall. The rock I would estimate has maybe 15% - 20%
coverage, but also has green hair algae (doesn't appear to be
increasing or excessive) The overflow wall merely has nickel to
quarter size patches. <<Coralline will arrive in time given
good lighting, calcium Alk and Mag levels>> I don't
want to get ahead of myself before adding more livestock &
coral before the tank is ready & assume getting more
coralline would be the 1st step ? <<This is no indication
of a tanks suitability to house fish or corals, the water
parameters / cycling are what govern this>> If I am correct
in that I was wondering if the GARF Grunge would be the best
start (& in what qty), <<Info stated on their website
" 0NE POUND FOR EACH THREE GALLONS WILL ACTIVATE TWO INCHES
OF ARAGONITE SAND ADD ONE POUND PER 10 GALLONS TO IMPROVE WILD
LIVE SAND! " >> if so what combination of lighting
from my above options would be best until the addition of corals,
I am assuming the 1x65w @ 10-12 hrs ? <<8 hours is plenty
of lighting>> If I am on the right track so far what would
you recommend for a rough time estimate before I could add corals
& additional fish. <<Once the cycle has completed and a
large water change has been done, you can start to slowly stock
the tank>> Lastly here is a list of species I thought may
be good for a tank of this size that would peacefully co-exist.
Do these look like good picks & if so what qty of each would
you recommend both for compatibility & bio-load. Would order
added matter ? I do currently have the two Ocellaris, the Sailfin
& anemone will be returned before I make any additions. Midas
Blenny (Ecsenius midas) Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion
ocellaris) Bicolor Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis paccagnellae)
Limbaugh Chromis Damsel (Chromis limbaughi) <<I would leave
the damsel out, these can get aggressive>> Sixline Wrasse
(Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) <<Add this fish last>>
Royal Gamma Basslet (Gramma loreto) <<I would choose this
or bicolor Pseudo.. They are very alike and you may get some
aggression shown from the Gramma to the
bicolor>>>>
Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium...
GARF/Grunge... using WWM 03/15/2008 Thank you sir, I
appreciate the advice, I assume you had no objections to the GARF
then. One forum I looked @ had to shut down a couple of threads
on the subject because they took a nasty turn, very strong
opinions on both sides. <<Its a very debatable issue i
suppose. An aspect you have to consider is how genuine the
product is? Fact is, a lot / most wont have a means of checking
out the product to ensure the specific contents. Would i use
this? No...Given time, life will be generated under its own
steam. Just my opinion of course. Hope this helps. A
Nixon>> <Aidan... take a look on WWM (the search
tool...) re GARF, "Grunge".... this "product"
is a hoax... "some old guy with a hammer smashing up dead
LR"... Andrew Nixon is in the UK... likely unfamiliar
with... RMF.>
|
New setup stocking question, reef 03/03/2008 Hello
Crew! <<G'Morning, Andrew today>> Fantastic site
and I wish to extend my own personal *thank you* for the hard
work, dedication, and information provided to all of us addicts!
Unfortunately, even after months of ready FAQs, articles, and
Internet searches I still find that I have questions. I would
think that what I'm attempting to do would be common, but
perhaps not. <<We shall see as we go through it>> For
a brief background, I have been setting up my first system, a 75
gallon, for nearly a year now. A few weeks ago I finally got
things to the point that the tank is cycling. This includes a
refugium, skimmer, automatic top of system, MH lighting, as well
as several custom built covers for keeping a few of these species
in the tank. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I have
included links to photos at the end of this correspondence so
that you can see the setup. This system was designed with two
primary species in mind and the intent to stock corals for a full
fledged reef. <<Sounds like a hood plan and system>>
The first design consideration is Synchiropus splendidus
(Mandarin). I am well aware that these fish ted to have potential
feeding issues. This fish will not be attempted until copepod
(most likely sourced via oceanpods.com) and amphipods (most
likely sourced via ipsf.com) have been stocked in the refugium
and allowed to "socialize" for a great deal of time.
<<Goo deal...Best waiting for at least 9 months or more
before considering attempting a mandarin>> My next design
consideration was for some form of Opistognathus (Jawfish). My
original plan was for Opistognathus rosenblatti until I read on
WWM that they were a cooler water species. I would like to house
more than one for the interaction, so I am leaning towards a pair
of Opistognathus aurifrons instead. Again these are a special
needs fish, so the tank has been filled with ample substrate of
various particle sizes to accommodate burrows.
<<Superb...Such a great fish to see in an aquarium>>
In fact one end of the tank has around six to seven inches of
aragonite while the other end has four to five inches. Again,
links to photos are provided for reference. <<Looks very
good to me Just ensure that any live rock is touching the bottom
of the tank, and not resting on sand, as once the burrowing
starts, the potential for live rock shifts could be there>>
While on the subject of a deep substrate, I am also having
trouble deciphering the "clean up crew" issue for
stirring of the substrate. It seems to me that species that
"stir" devour everything that I wish to propagate for
the benefit of the mandarin, limited DSB, and other inhabitants.
Are micro stars safe or not, what about "sand bed
clams", and snails? <<A good crew of snail and reef
safe hermits will do a good job. Some brittle stars are ok, read
more here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brittlestars.htm >>
Oh, I'm also planning on getting some worms to seed both the
display and refugium. If I could get a few recommendations or
sources on this subject I would greatly appreciate it. I will of
course need the algae eaters as well but those seem to be easy to
pick out. <<A cup of sand from an already established reef
would be far better in my opinion>> Now that we're on
the topic of stocking questions, I need a few names to research
as far as fish are concerned. I would like to find something
small that would give me a nice "group" of swimmer(s)
for the middle to upper range of the tank. <<Chromis fish
school well, in groups of 5 or more, give a nice colour to the
tank>> The issue that I seem to run into are that species
that I seem to pick out all like to burrow in the sand (which I
do not believe would make my future Opistognathus very happy),
create a greater demand on the copepod population (which I know
everything will to some extent but...), or are too aggressive for
other inhabitants or each other. I'm thinking along the lines
of 3 - 5 for the group. Any suggestions? <<As above,
chromis are a good schooling fish, a nice group of Clownfish,
some Anthiinae school well also. I would not be overly too
worried about copepod population of the sandbed, they will also
colonise on the rock, the refugium will be the biggest pod growth
centre>> One last note. I do have a maroon clown that will
eventually get placed in the display, but my intention is to have
this placed last if at all possible. She came with the purchase
of a used setup and has since been in a 10 gallon QT tank. Not
the most ideal of situations but she seems happy and certainly
healthy! <<Don't see any problems. Just research the
compatibility of future inhabitants>>
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2270024.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2270026.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2270025.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2210210.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2220214.jpg
<<Nice photos, thanks>> A couple of the photos have a
tape measure in them for reference. That tape is about 2 inches
short due to the fact that the tank sits IN the stand not ON the
stand. Also, if you go to the following link
http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/?albumview=grid
you can view all the photos in the album. Some are OK some
not...I'm not a professional photographer either.
<<Enjoyed browsing through you photo library, some nice
shots in there>> Thank you for time. Sincerely, Heath
Carter <<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A
Nixon>>
Re: New setup stocking question 03/04/2008
Thank you for your time and reply. <<Hello, no problem at
all>> I will do further research into chromis options
available. I will also see if I can locate a reputable source for
a live sand donation. I wanted to clarify as well that the base
rock was placed in the display first and then buried under the
sand. <<Sounds good>> I ensured my belligerent
attacks shaking the tank couldn't knock over the
"piles". Now the rock in the refugium is another story,
but there will not be anything in there except the rock and
'pods. """""""(Get it?
Rock'nPods?)"""""""
<<Oh my, don't give up your day job....ha ha ha ha ha
;O) >> Sorry it's late and I have more research to
complete! Again thank you very much, Heath Carter <<Take
care, and hope all turns out well for you. A Nixon>>
|
|
Tank Setup Update 2/27/08 Hello Crew and Bob
<Hello Brian, Scott V. with you today.> I'm writing you today
not to ask questions but to give you a update on my new reef tank ;)
<OK> Thanks to Scott V and Mike at www.glass-holes.com I have put
together the perfect reef setup. I ordered a 1500g overflow box kit
which came with the diamond bit and all accessories needed for the
overflow including a cool glass-holes.com tee shirt and some hard
candies. Thanks Scott and Mike <I am happy to hear everything worked
out well.> So here's my tank setup we'll see how perfect it
is as of today. Cycling the aquarium started 2-21-08 so its 5 days
old.. 55 lbs of live rock from Dr Foster and Smith "Nice stuff by
the way" 70 lbs of sand bed. It's about 5 inches deep. The
sump actually overflows into the refuge...My idea but with Scott V
helping me with this idea .Thanks again Scott, it works perfect.
<Good to hear.> 2 DIY refuge's 1 has 6 inches of sand other
has 4 inches of refuge mud I plan on growing macro after the cycle is
completed.. No light over refuge as of yet. And then 2 Mag drive 12
pumps returning water through Vinyl Tubing 3/4" so total I'm
pumping roughly 1400 gph total I'm thinking? <I would like to
state for other's sake that I would not typically recommend this
much pump on two 1 ½' bulkheads. Yours is a situation
that allowed it with your particular plumbing combination and head
pressure.> Lighting is the Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures w/Lunar Lights
total watts is 216 I plan on just LPS tank at the moment.. My skimmer
is junk Skimmer I'm ordering from Scott V he just doesn't know
it yet ;) <Heee, I do now!> Tank specs as of tonight 2-26-08 ,
5:00 pm Water is RO Water change 10 gal weekly Sal 1.024 <I would
raise this a bit to 1.025-1.026.> Temp 80 PH 8.2 Amm 0 ppm Nitrite 0
ppm Nitrate 5.0 ppm Alk 3.0 Cal 100 I'm ignoring Alk and Cal
readings above only because it's a new tank! I added a 2 part
calcium/Alk called C-balance tonight rechecking numbers tomorrow hoping
these numbers will balance (Alk 2.5 Cal 420). <Yes, do supplement to
get these numbers up.> I'm guessing these numbers are good for
the tank being 5 days old That's about all I can think of tonight I
hope I didn't leave anything out. With all this finally done I owe
many people like WWM Crew and Bob Fenner for this Web site as I am an
everyday reader a BIG THANK YOU for everything you guys/gals do!
<<This is what makes all the time, daily... worthwhile.
RMF>> >:((((-< Brian Coble, Wisconsin <You are welcome
Brian, I am glad we could help. Thank you for all the kind words and
the update on your system. Scott V., in sunny California.>
New setup.... Reef
02/26/2008 I just bought a 90 gallon aquarium with a Red Sea
Berlin Classic rated for 250 gallons. I am reading many different
opinions on wet dry or just skimmer. My question is if I do not
use a wet dry how do I set up the sump, and skimmer, and what do
I use (empty tank, or custom sump)? <<I personally do not
recommend a wet-dry filter arrangement in a marine system.
Setting up the sump is relatively straight forward. The sump is
split into 3 areas...1) Inlet section where the water arrives
from the main display tank, you can house the skimmer in this
section...2) Central section, the refugium. In here you will have
a DSB, live rock rubble and some macro algae for nutrient
export......3) Return section which will house the return
pump...A good place to start with learning sumps can be found
here.. http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html>> I want
to make it a reef tank, and also want know how much rock is
recommended. Should I use live sand or leave the bottom empty?
<<Rock recommendations are to aim for about 1 - 1.5lbs of
live rock per gallon of tank water. Live sand is a debatable
issue. I don't feel its necessary as life will eventually
spread from the live rock in to the sandbed. For sand, I mainly
recommend aragonite sugar grain reef sand, Caribsea provide this
product>> Thanks for your help. John <<Thank you for
the questions John, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Re: new setup, reef
02/26/2008 Thanks for your help, <<Hello again John, no
problem at all>> I have two more questions. <<Great,
I love questions...>> Do I have to have any substrate? I
have seen tanks with no sand on the bottom at all, is this
acceptable? <<No, you don't have to have a substrate in
the tank, this a personal preference area here, bare bottom is
fine>> Do I need any type of mechanical filtration?
<<Mechanical filtration all depends on the amount of live
rock your planning on putting in the system. If you go for 1 -
1.5lbs of live rock per gallon, then, that would be all the
filtration you actually need. If you don't intend on having
this much, then an external filter of some type will be needed to
bolster mech filtration levels>> Thanks John <<Hope
that helps John...A Nixon>>
|
No Questions, Just Thanks 2/19/08 Hi Crew <Hi
Garry> Having been away from the hobby for over ten years (major
family illness meant no time) I am now approaching that time when the
reef bug has caught hold and gone from being latent to rampant again.
<Ah, the bug has bit.> Much has changed, although I seem to have
done much of what is current anyway, refugia, big skimmers, live rock
filtration methods, etc etc (more by accident than design I might add),
and finding your site has allowed the dream and adventure to begin on a
much more solid foundation than before. I know my stocking rates have
always been light and my filtration heavy but it always worked for me
and I only ever seemed to lose a fish shrimp or whatever through old
age or accident. It is good to know that what I did in the past is
advised as being the way to go today. <Not much has changed but
technology.> So this is just a big thank you to everyone from Bob to
Steve to anyone who replies to the thousands of questions people come
up with. Your site has replaced a lot of faith I have lost with the
industry (hobby) what with shops who don't have a clue (keeping a
few small wrasse with an Anglerfish is just one example), and staff
about as knowledgeable (sorry if that's spelt wrong) as a garbage
man in a hospital. <Thank you for your kind words. James (Salty
Dog)> Regards Garry Holter (in the UK) Oh I'm an ecologist by
training and understand community structure very well (it formed my
D.Phil research for 4 years) and boy does that help in structuring a
reef aquarium. <<Would very much encourage your writing... re the
many useful tie-ins here. Bob Fenner>> <Mmmm>
75 gallon system, reef set-up Qs
2/2/08 Hey guys, <Mr. Christian> It's been a while since
I have last written to you guys, and since then I have been forced to
tear down the tank, and attempt to start it up once again, thus of
course leading to many more questions! It is a standard 75 gallon tank
with a built in overflow which leads down to a SeaLife Systems wet/dry
125 in which I have replace the bio balls with live rock rubble.... The
next section of the wet/dry is where the useless SeaLife Systems
protein skimmer and rio return pump sit, both of which no longer work
and are the main reasons for the collapse of the beautiful tank I used
to have. My plan for this tank is to go full blown reef with many
different inverts and just a couple small reef safe fish. So, here is
the equipment I am looking into buying for my new setup: (I haven't
bought them yet so please tell me if you have any suggestions) Protein
Skimmer - Euro Reef RS100 <Good unit> Lighting - Outer Orbit
48" 2x 150w 10K Metal halides with 2x 130 w actinic PC's Live
Rock - 90 lbs of liveaquaria.com's select Lalo LR Sandbed - Want a
4" deep sandbed to help with NNR, is it possible to use sand
bought from Home Depot for this? <Mmm, possibly... they used to
carry a calcareous play sand... but not all is of such a nature... Do
you know of the "acid test"? See here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm and the linked files above>
Perhaps supplement with other Live Sand? <Good idea> Also do you
know approximately how many pounds I would need to create a 4"
deep bed? <Mmm... about thirty pounds per square foot of bottom>
Pumps/Circulation - Return pump will be a Rio 20HF, and the in tank
powerheads will be a Tunze Turbelle Stream 6060 (too much flow do you
think?) <Not too much> and also on the side of the return, a
Hydor Koralia NANO. Anyways, these are just my plans so far, please
give me your suggestions, opinions. etc. Can't wait to hear back
from you guys and thanks a bunch. -Christian <Thus far, so good...
Bob Fenner>
Moving to a Bigger Tank, reef... stkg., set-up
2-1-08 Hi Bob, <Do I look that old? ;) Mike
here today, Bob is having a beer (if he's lucky...)>
Fantastic site with a TON of great information. <Yes it is,
thanks> I Currently have a 56 gal with LR/LS, NO coral, a few
inverts (snails, arrow crab, choc chip star, and emerald crab)
and of course fish. We just bought some more fish for the
aquarium last week knowing we will be buying a 125 gal this
coming week. The fish we have are 1 Banggai cardinal, 1 PJ
cardinal, 1 maroon/gold clown, 1 blue hippo tang, and the new
additions are 1 latticed butterfly, 1 coral beauty angel, 1
Twinspot goby, and 1 red knobbed starfish. <Banggai's are
schooling fish, might want to get a few more of these guys> A
lot for a 56 gal tank, <Too small for the tang, that's for
sure> I really should have waited to get the new guys.
Everyone is doing fine, but I want to keep the ball rolling on
getting them into their bigger home. <Good idea> My
question involves setting up/cycling the new 125g tank. First of
all, let me mention that we are not currently happy with our
current substrate (Florida crushed coral) from a purely aesthetic
point of view, and want to add sand to the new tank, which
I'm sure the new Twinspot will love more than the coral. My
LFS suggested that with adding the new LS, my existing as well as
some new LR, and also adding a live bacteria product, that I
could move the fish over after 24 hours, and if I wanted to wait
1 week and monitor the water that would be better, but after 1
week it was fine. I have read the articles here on establishing
the bio filter and cycling, and that time period seems a little
short to me. I really don't have the space to maintain both
tanks for long, but when it comes to the health of my
"babies" I can manage for a couple weeks. Do you think
adding what I have mentioned above, and waiting about 2 weeks and
monitoring the water quality will be long enough? <Yes, as
long as all the params read appropriately...should anything go
awry, Amquel+ is a lifesaver. Make sure your skimmer can handle
the larger water volume, and if you don't have a skimmer, get
one> Also, they advised that by adding all three items, LR,
LS, and live bacteria, that I really wont see a fluctuation in
test numbers in terms of ammonia and nitrites. What SHOULD I be
looking for to know that the tank is truly ready, an increase in
Nitrates? <If your ammonia and nitrites are zero, you can
safely add your livestock. Monitor your water once daily for any
ammonia or nitrite spikes (possible but not likely) and dose with
Amquel+ or Seachem Prime to neutralize (assuming your animals are
present)> My last question is, will moving the decor and LR to
the new tank, and basically leaving my livestock in a bare tank
with substrate be detrimental to them? Should I leave a couple
decorations and a big piece or two of LR in there until the move?
<I wouldn't even split the two - you should be fine adding
the LR and fish at the same time. The LR is what's performing
your biological filtration in your current aquarium anyway
(unless you have another biological filter you didn't
mention) and it will continue to do so in your new aquarium. Add
your sand to you new aquarium, fill with saltwater of the same
temp/salinity/pH, and add your rock and animals - just see above
re params> Sorry for so many questions, but I want to do this
the right way and not over stress them. <No problem> Thank
you again for such a great site and great information.
<Anytime> Mike Parker <M. Maddox>
Re: Moving to a Bigger Tank
2/5/08 Thank you again Mike for the wonderful info and help.
<Anytime> I have a couple follow up questions if that is
ok? <Sure> I visited my LFS tonight, and one question
concerns the live bacteria. The LFS seemed to "strongly
suggest" using this live bacteria product that runs about
$28 to treat 50 gallons. So, I would need to buy 3 of them. Given
that I am adding 100-120 lbs of new live sand, along with about
50lbs of existing live rock, another 25 lbs (for starters) of new
live rock I am purchasing when I pick up the tank, and I also
currently have an unopened bottle of Hagen Cycle, do I need the
other bacteria they suggest? <Not at all - no bottled product
is going to come close to the bacterial colonies on the
rock/sand> The Hagen cycle bottle says it treats over 250
gallons, and the tank will be a 125. Do you think with the
LS/LR/Cycle product combo that my two week water-monitoring time
frame would still apply? I'm not trying to cut corners by any
means, but I just felt that after asking my LFS about a good
$1200-$1500 worth of equipment I told them I was going to be
getting soon, they were just "piling on" some extras
they say I "need". <I agree with you about the LFS
looking for a profit. A two week waiting period will be more than
adequate> The extras leads me to my other question. They also
recommended strongly a Pro-Clear wet/dry 125g filter. After
reading a lot on WWM about wet/dry filters and LR/LS, it seems
that a wet/dry is really not necessary, unless I was reading more
into it than what was really being said? Also, I have read a lot
about removing the blue bio-balls, which seemed to be the big
selling point that my LFS was touting about the wet/dry filter.
Would I be able to run a good, healthy system with my LS/LR, a
125g Coralife protein skimmer which I already have, and two
AquaClear 110 filters? I have an AquaClear 70 on my tank now, but
I don't think that adding 1 AquaClear and the existing 70
would handle the job. <The wet/dry isn't necessary at all,
unless you plan on stocking a high bioload of exceptionally messy
fishes, such as triggers/puffers/groupers/lionfish> I guess
what I want to know is: with the skimmer, two AquaClear
110's, and using the money I would be saving on the wet/dry
setup to get more live rock than I had planned, would that be
acceptable? <With a decent stocking load, you're fine with
what you have. No more rock/filtration is necessary. Just use the
AquaClear filters for mechanical/chemical filtration and clean
the sponges a few times a week. If you want to spend money
somewhere, spend it on a skimmer, because manufacturers tend to
overrate their skimmer's abilities> As an afterthought, if
that IS acceptable would it be in my best interest to strap on
the AquaClear 70 next to the two 110's since I already have
it and it would provide more filtration/water flow?
<Couldn't hurt - again, clean mechanical filters
frequently (2-4 times/week)> Thank you again for your time and
your help, it is very much appreciated. <Anytime> Mike
Parker <M. Maddox>
Moving into a bigger tank part III 2-05-08
Thanks again for the help. Just a quick question on the water
flow for this new 125 gallon tank. The two AquaClear 110 filters
are rated at 500gph each. My protein skimmer is also rated
500gph. I plan on adding two Koralia 3 powerheads when I set up
the tank @ 850gph each. That gives me a total of 3200gph. My
first thought was, is this too much for the 125 gallon tank? Then
I quickly realized that I really will only have control over
1700gph of the 3200 total (the two powerheads) in terms of
directing the flow. And now I am wondering if that will be enough
flow for the tank? I'd appreciate your thoughts. By the way,
the dimensions of the tank are 72x18x22, Don't think I ever
listed that. <Sounds good, especially for a FOWLR. Put sponges
over the powerhead intakes and clean them at least once a
week> Thanks again for your time, and your help.
<Anytime> Mike P. <M. Maddox>
Moving to a bigger tank part IV
2-08-06 Mike (or whichever helpful crew member may reply),
Thanks again for the help. I had a little accident last night.
Some big dummy dropped his Coralife 125 protein skimmer onto
first an iron doorstop, and then a tile floor, while taking it
for a cleaning. <Ouch - we've all been in similar
situations> Needless to say, the main collection tube cracked
and also a piece flew out and now there is a hole...not good. So
I am now skimmerless. My question is, with purchasing the 125
gallon setup I had mentioned, funds are pretty scarce. The only
skimmer I would be able to pick up from my LFS for the time being
is a SeaClone 150 (hold your screams). I would MUCH rather not
throw money into a sub-par skimmer (not that the Coralife was a
prize, but at least it worked well) and save and invest in a much
better skimmer in 2-3 months (which I had planned on doing to
replace the Coralife). My question is, in the new 125 fish only
tank, with 100lbs of new LS, 50 or so lbs of LR, 2 AquaClear
100's, and 3 Koralia 3 powerheads (I decided to buy 3 instead
of two), and not having any "messy fish" that you
mentioned earlier, would this be ok? Would I be able to maintain
a good health level for my tank for a few months without a
skimmer? I don't know if I should take the "any port in
a storm" mentality and get any skimmer I can afford in
there, or save it and be able to get the GOOD skimmer a little
quicker in a couple months. Again I thank you for your input,
time, and knowledge. <You should be fine...just monitor water
quality and perform husbandry as needed. I would wait and
purchase a quality skimmer> Mike P. <M. Maddox>
|
R4: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank
(But Not 'Really' A Biotope'¦Bummer) -- 01/23/08
Hi again, Eric <<Hello Barb!>> Here I am again! :)
<<Me too!>> I read up on the shrimp goby/shrimp symbionts;
they sound like my cup of tea. <<Cool>> Thanks for the
link. <<Quite welcome>> My question for keeping them
regards the substrate. For the DSB I was planning on using the
sugar-fine aragonite. <<Mmm yes, I recall'¦not the
'best' for the shrimp/goby>> However, I've read that
a coarser sand bed is preferred by a lot of these creatures.
<<Indeed'¦ And more than preferred'¦is
necessary'¦ to allow them to build structures/tunnels that
won't collapse>> Comments? <<Easy enough to rectify by
adding some substrate of a larger grain size'¦along with some
crushed shells>> From what I've read, mixing different sized
sands doesn't work well for DSB. What are your thoughts on that?
<<I disagree'¦ Adding a few pounds of larger aggregate
will do no harm to the DSB>> I understand your comments about
including an anemone in this system. If I want to do this I need to
thoroughly understand the anemone type so that it is protected.
<<Along with protecting its tankmates>> I get how sensitive
they are, and I certainly wouldn't want to torture something just
so I have something cool to look at! <<And it wouldn't likely
be for long at that. Do consider that there has been some speculation
that anemones may be truly 'immortal' creatures, never showing
any signs/wear-and-tear of aging. Succumbing only to the vagaries of
their environment. Considering this'¦keeping one of these
animals 'alive for a few years' can hardly be deemed as
'success'>> I am reading about allelopathy and it is slow
going. <<Patience, Grasshopper>> Complicated, to say the
least <I'm thinking you probably know this :) > I do see why
you suggest adding extra filtration. <<Indeed>> If and when
I get my mind around the subject I'll probably ask more questions!
:-/ <<Okey-dokey!>> Re: light bulb choices; you say that it
would be good to add more lower Kelvin rated bulbs; is the GE 65K
Daylight bulb the type you are talking about? <<It is,
yes'¦to replace the more 'blue' bulbs in your previous
selection'¦as would be most any of the true 10,000K bulbs
available>> Adding more of that type would "give more
output/provide more useful spectrum"? <<Yes'¦ A 65K
bulb will have far better output than most of the 'blue' bulbs,
and it will still have enough light in the blue spectrum for your
livestock's needs. Generally, adding blue/actinic light is for the
aquarist's enjoyment>> And, one New question concerning Live
Rock; what is your opinion of aquacultured live rock/live sand? I'm
referring specifically to Tampa Bay Saltwater's rock/sand. I was
reading about it on several different forums, and it sure does make
some beautiful looking tanks. << I prefer to stay away from this,
though use the aquacultured rock if you wish'¦just be sure to
cure it thoroughly yourself. It won't cause any harm, but I have
heard many experiences of pest organisms (Aiptasia/mantis shrimp)
coming in with this rock. And not that this can't be the case with
'any' rock'¦but a good quality 'natural' live
rock will be lighter (much 'cultured' rock is Limestone), and
have better biodiversity'¦in my opinion. Oh
yeah'¦don't pay money for 'live sand' if you can
help it. Add a suitable 'dry' sand and it will become
'live' in short order from the rock, corals, et al>> Re:
cats and snow. When my kitty touched snow for the first time she shot
straight up in the air LOL... like about 3ft in the air. She was very
sad when she landed right back in it! <<We're still waiting
to give ours a go in the snow'¦might be years yet!>>
And, lastly, I mentioned my son lives at the beach on Topsail Island?
<<Yes>> On Monday morning it was 11f there, and all his
pipes froze! <<Yikes'¦ Was about 23F
here'¦still colder than we like/are used to>> He
wasn't happy about that, but he did get the day off work to deal
with it. He always likes a day off from work. <<You know what
they say'¦a bad day at most anything, beats a good day at
work!>> Thanks again for help with my (probably annoying)
new-to-the-reef questions! Barb <<Not at all, Barb'¦I
look forward to further exchanges. Eric Russell>>
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Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1:
Invertebrates, Algae
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Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
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Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
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