Reefsetup11

FAQs on Reef Set-Up 11


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Reef Rack System 06/06/2008 Hi Bob, <<Andrew today>> I was looking for a product called Reef Rack Systems. As I sure you know it, it allows live rock to be stacked. I looked on the web with no avail. Would you happen to have any info on this product? Thank you, Joe <<I do not know of a supplier for the Reef Racking exact product. However, to achieve reef staging, the simple PVC pipe from places like homedepot.com, which is about 3/4 inch in diameter, with elbows, makes for a very much cheaper version, and achieves exactly the same goal. Many many reef aquarist's go down this route of PVC pipe work for the rack, instead of paying through the nose for the expensive reef racking or staging. Hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Nano-Cube HQI Aquarium Kit 5/7/08 Hello WWM Crew, hope you are all well and thank you for all that you do!! <Doing well here, WWM is a pleasure to be part of and help out.> I have to downsize (sad I know) my 100 gal to a 30 gal reef tank. Breaks my heart it does. Although I did look I couldn't find anything on direct experience with this prepackaged system. Have any of you gotten any feedback on if this thing and if it's various parts work for more than a week? <There are many systems similar to this out and about on the market now (many originate from the same manufacturer under different labels), all seem to function just fine.> If so, it would fit my space needs perfectly. Here's the setup; 150 watt 14000Â°K HQI metal halide lighting (4) Nite-Vu LED lighting with separate power cord (2) UL-Listed Accela Powerheads (266 gph each for a 532 gph total) (2) Directional flow nozzles (1) Ocean Pulse Duo - Alternating wavemaker (4) Integrated cooling fans (3,000 RPM's) Counter current protein skimmer with air pump 3-stage filtration with removable media basket Center overflow system Designated area for a heater Flame retardant ABS canopy housing Thermal protector for canopy (Auto Shut Off protection) I thought I would also add a small chiller since I'm concerned about temp variations in this small a volume. <A good idea, the main problem with these systems is temperature fluctuations with the MH light.> Thanks again for you time. If you've already done a review of this system I'm sorry to ask again, please just post the link. <We do not generally review products per se, just give opinions when asked. My only other word of advice regarding this system is the skimmer. The little limewood driven skimmers do work quite well, just be aware the limewood will require periodic replacement to keep the skimmer working well. If this is a concern for you there are many aftermarket skimmers made just for these systems nowadays. The Tunze Nano DOC being my personal favorite.> Take care, Joe <Joe, do realize that you can have an amazing tank even with the smaller volume. Livestock choices, stability and maintenance routines just become all that much more important with the smaller tank. Cheers, Scott V.>

Re: Nano-Cube HQI Aquarium Kit 5/7/08 Hello WWM Crew, hope you are all well and thank you for all that you do!! <Doing well here, WWM is a pleasure to be part of and help out.> I have to downsize (sad I know) my 100 gal to a 30 gal reef tank. Breaks my heart it does. Although I did look I couldn't find anything on direct experience with this prepackaged system. Have any of you gotten any feedback on if this thing and if it's various parts work for more than a week? <There are many systems similar to this out and about on the market now (many originate from the same manufacturer under different labels), all seem to function just fine.> If so, it would fit my space needs perfectly. Here's the setup; 150 watt 14000Â°K HQI metal halide lighting (4) Nite-Vu LED lighting with separate power cord (2) UL-Listed Accela Powerheads (266 gph each for a 532 gph total) (2) Directional flow nozzles (1) Ocean Pulse Duo - Alternating wavemaker (4) Integrated cooling fans (3,000 RPM's) Counter current protein skimmer with air pump 3-stage filtration with removable media basket Center overflow system Designated area for a heater Flame retardant ABS canopy housing Thermal protector for canopy (Auto Shut Off protection) I thought I would also add a small chiller since I'm concerned about temp variations in this small a volume. <A good idea, the main problem with these systems is temperature fluctuations with the MH light.> Thanks again for you time. If you've already done a review of this system I'm sorry to ask again, please just post the link. <We do not generally review products per se, just give opinions when asked. My only other word of advice regarding this system is the skimmer. The little limewood driven skimmers do work quite well, just be aware the limewood will require periodic replacement to keep the skimmer working well. If this is a concern for you there are many aftermarket skimmers made just for these systems nowadays. The Tunze Nano DOC being my personal favorite.> Take care, Joe <Joe, do realize that you can have an amazing tank even with the smaller volume. Livestock choices, stability and maintenance routines just become all that much more important with the smaller tank. Cheers, Scott V.>

Getting Back In To The Hobby...A Lot Has Seemed To Change (Indeed!) -- 04/21/08 HI gents, <<Some very sharp ladies here as well'¦and hello!>> Michael here, and I am setting up a brand new tank. <<Neat>> The tank is ordered, dimensions 60x18x30 flat back hex. <<Ah'¦so about 125-gallons or so (taking in to account the 'Hex' design)>> I am going to be DIY-ing the stand and a three chambered sump rough dimensions 48x24x18 and probably will be half filled when running. <Okay>> The first chamber will be getting the water supply from the main tank and will house the skimmer (suggestions on type/brand/model). <<Euro-Reef is my current fave'¦an RS-80 or maybe RS-100 would do fine here>> The second chamber will house a deep sand bed and some live rock and possibly some algae (suggestion of type) <<Chaetomorpha gets my vote for its 'user-friendliness'>> and will be lit during the main tank dark times. And finally the third chamber will have the heaters, calcium reactor (suggestion needed), <<I have/use one from Precision Marine'¦the CR-422 would serve your system, but do also take a look at the offerings from Knop'¦and the new line of Octopus reactors with 'screw-tops' looks interesting as well>> and return pump. Lighting will come from a Current metal halide/CF fixture about 600watts) hanging from the ceiling. My goal is to have the tank turning over as much as the built in overflows can handle (not sure how much this will be, at least 12x I am guessing). <<For 1' drains figure about 300gph per'¦700gph or so for 1.5' drains>> The tank itself will have between 90 and 125 lbs of LR <<Take care not to overload with rock'¦leave plenty of space for fish to swim, corals to grow, water to move about'¦ And rather than the typical (and boring?) 'rock wall''¦consider a little researching to replicate a particular 'niche' from the reef, and stocking with animals found re>> and 120 LBS of LS and have several types of soft and hard corals and maybe 5-10 damsels <<Choose species carefully here as most Damsels will not get along in these numbers for the long term, in this size system>> and a tang or two and a clown fish or two. <<But hopefully no Anemone mixed in with your sessile inverts>> I am hoping this stock of fish will not be too much and that my setup will be sufficient. <<The stocking density looks fine'¦though you may want to consider a more 'cooperative' group of small fishes other than the damsels>> Please help with suggestion on a high to medium skimmer and a descent calcium reactor. <<Have done so>> Going to send in pictures of the setup process and at various stages and the finally setup once done. <<Sounds good'¦look forward to seeing it>> Michael Wade York, SC <<Eric Russell'¦Columbia, SC>>

Setting Up a 113g Reef Cube -- 04/09/08 Hi all, <<Hello Michael>> Maybe I should divide this into a couple different emails since it's questions involving 2 different future set ups. If that's the case, feel free to edit and split however you see fit. <<Mmm, well'¦it's all here as 'one' now, so let's see how it goes>> I value your website and your advice very much and would like to thank you in advance!!! <<Quite welcome>> Okay, here's the deal, I currently have 2 mixed reef tanks, a 46 and a 75. My 46 has 2X96 watt PC lighting and my 75 has a 6 bulb 48" Tek 5 fixture that I love!! <<Metal Halide is my current fave'¦but admit the T5 lighting is quite nice>> I'm in the process of setting up a 113 gallon cube tank. I purchased a used tank that measures 36" long, 25" front to back and 29" high. I plan for this tank to be predominately SPS but will also have some LPS and Clams. <> My first question is about lighting. I realize that with a depth of 29" I'll most likely need to go with MH lighting. <<Will provide the most 'bang for the buck' in the space allowed, yes>> I am absolutely have to go with 400 watts or if 250 watts will be enough. <<250w lamps will serve quite well'¦I suggest two>> I do want to be able to keep Acros but am more than willing to keep the higher light demanding corals higher in the tank. <<Is always a good plan regardless of the wattage used>> I plan to keep Acros in the upper portion of the tank, lower light demanding SPS, such as Montipora in the middle level and LPS towards the bottom. < I think it is a mistake to believe Montipora species won't appreciate the same light levels as we assume Acropora species 'require.' Many Montipora species, especially branching varieties, will grow faster and color-up better under intense lighting, in my experience. But even so, the 250w halides will provide sufficient light re for the Montipora at 'middle level''¦ and for many Acropora species as well>> I'll use the same philosophy with my clams. Will 250 watts be enough? <<Yes>> I know absolutely nothing at all about MH lighting and have soooo much to learn. I see different types of ballasts, magnetic, electronic, etc. I see mogul and DE bulbs, I see pulse start....non pulse start...German bulbs.....I'm sooo confused...lol. I don't know what any of this means at all!! <<Can be daunting'¦but do start reading here and among the links in blue at the tops of the pages. Formulate some specific questions and give me a holler if you wish>> I'm assuming, because of the dimensions of this tank that I'll be able to hang a single pendant above the tank. <<You could, though this will limit the numbers/species you can keep as light toward the ends of the tank will be quite dim>> That brings up the question of how to supplement actinic lighting with either PC or T5s. <<Not necessary'¦but if you wish, either will do fine>> I'm also considering building a canopy and installing a MH retro pendant and supplemental actinics. <<A fine idea>> Any and all suggestions or advice would be wonderful. <<Do some reading, and then come back with more specific questions if necessary>> I am still in the planning stages of this tank and plan to drill it for a closed-loop system as well as for an overflow and return for a sump/refugium I'll be building. <<Excellent>> Any advice on placement, number and size of holes would be great!! <<Much to be stated'¦ Read here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm) and here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbretfaq2.htm) and come back with specific questions about what you want to do>> Drilling brings up another question. I've heard and read that you can determine if your tank is all tempered by looking at the glass through polarized sunglasses. Any advice on this? <<Don't think I've heard/know about this. Most all production tanks of size and of recent manufacture will have at the least a tempered bottom panel. I would think your tank would probably be OK to drill through a side panel'¦but I suggest you contact the manufacturer to be sure>> From what I can tell, there are no markings at all on any of the glass panes. <<New tanks would have tempered panels marked (usually a sticker), but since your tank is used'¦'¦>> I sure don't want to shatter my tank...lol. <<Agreed'¦can give one quite a start>> Also, is there any way to determine if this tank has ever had copper based medicine used in it? <<Mmm'¦try adding some water'¦let it stand a while'¦test the water>> If so, does that make it impossible to use it as a reef tank? <<Maybe not'¦ If you detect copper, you may be able to remove it (depending on how much trouble you wish to go to) with a proprietary copper remover (e.g. -- Seachem's Cupramine)>> Now on to my next project...The above mentioned cube will replace my 46 gallon bowfront and the 46 gallon will be turned into a Seahorse tank. I'm still in the beginning stages of learning about Seahorses as well. I understand there a HUGE difference between reef and seahorse tanks when it comes to flow, temperature and such. <Indeed>> I'm thinking that I'll utilize the current PC lighting that I have on the 46. I'll cut way back on flow by removing the modified MJ1200s and replacing them with...I don't know. I've heard that it's not a good idea to have any power heads in a seahorse tank. <<As weak swimmers, such devices can be harmful if employed without some thought to diffusing flow/protecting intakes, yes>> This tank has a HOB CPR Aquafuge, the large size. It also has an AquaC Remora HOB Skimmer. Will these 2 units provide enough flow? <> They both have the standard pumps. With these in place, I don't have room to add a HOB box type power filter. I've used the HOB power filters such as AC100s and turned them into mini fuges by removing the filter media and replacing with Chaeto. This would supplement flow but there's just no room. I could use a canister filter to supplement flow if needed. Any and all suggestions for this would be great too!! <> Last question....for now....I would really like this tank to house 2 species of seahorses. <<Not usually recommended>> I understand that different species have different temperature requirements and such. If I were to get 2 species from the same region, would I be okay? If I'm unable to house 2 different species and still provide proper conditions for both, I won't. What species would you recommend for someone who does have experience with reef tanks but none with seahorses? I'd also like to house 2 of whatever species I have. <<Ocean Rider offers excellent 'tank raised' specimens that are good choices for novice 'horse keepers.' I suggest you contact them (http://www.seahorse.com/contact/Carol_Ann_Cozzi-Schmarr/) and let Carol advise you on your selection>> Again, thank you so much for any information, suggestions or advice you're able to provide. You guys are awesome!! Sincerely, Michael <<Happy to assist, Michael. Be chatting, EricR>>

Moving up to a 110 gallon system... reading re stkg., canister filters/reef 3/15/08 Hello Crew, <Cinnamon, let me in!> I have been a fan of your site since I found it. Great advice. <Thanks> Here in my question. I currently have a 60 gallon reef system. I am running a Marineland Emperor Bio-Wheel 400 Power Filter, a Aqua C Remora Protein Skimmer with Maxijet 1200 Pump and a Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system. Two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads and One 200 watt heater. I also have about 60 to 80 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed. The current residents of the 60 gallon, (listed below) will be relocating to the 110 gallon mentioned below. Except for the tomato clowns and the Yellow Belly Blue Damsel. They will be going back to the LFS. 1 yellow tang 4in 2 tomato clowns 1 Lyretail Anthias 3" 1 Yellow Belly Blue Damsel 1 Coral Beauty Angelfish 4" 2 Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp 1 Fire Shrimp 2 Serpent Starfish 1 Hawaiian Feather Duster 15 assorted snails 1 Long tentacle anemone and 1 short tentacle Several different types of mushrooms, polyps and Zoanthids. I purchased the 110 gallon tank, (48 x 30 x 18) with no overflow, to be my new reef system. My plan is to run a Eheim 2028 Professionel II Canister Filter, <Mmm, good product... I use them on my FW tanks... but am not such a fan for marine... part. reef set-ups. Please see WWM re: http://wetwebmedia.com/marcanfiltuse.htm> two Hydor Koralia 3 - 850GPH powerheads, Aqua C Remora Pro Protein Skimmer with Mag 3 Pump, two Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200 Watt Heater and the Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system which is on my current system. I know my current lighting system will need to be upgraded at some point, but do you think I will be able to go with this one for now? <If you can arrange your stinging-celled life to be about the same depth of water as currently> I will also have about 75 to 100 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed. Any recommendations would be helpful? <Deeper, finer substrate is better... also posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm and the linked files above.> I would also like to add the following resident to the new system, if you approve? I do not want to overload my system. 2 Maroon Clownfish 1 Blonde Naso Tang. I know he will need to be in a larger system in a couple of years. <Mmm, no... immediately. I would not keep a Naso species in anything less than six feet long/wide... See... WWM... re...> Already planning on a 180 system. 1 Full size angel? <... Not a good idea> Hardy and reef safe any suggestions? <Posted...> I know there is no guarantee on it being reef safe. 1 Blue Jaw Trigger or Niger Trigger? A group of schooling fish. Any suggestions? <Reading. Bob Fenner>

Re: Setting Up 110 Gallon Reef System 03/21/2008 Hello Again Crew, <<G'Morning, Andrew today>> This is Ron. A.K.A. the Mystery Man... Thanks for the advice. I have attached my first inquiry email, I sent to you. I want to make sure I have everything right before I make my purchase of equipment and livestock. I apologize in advance, if I am being repetitive. O. K. here we go. <<No need to apologise>> Equipment I am going with for this 110 gallon future reef: RENA Filstar XP 3 Canister Filter. I am not going to use the Emperor 400. If that is alright? <<I see down below your going for 120lbs of live rock in a 110 gal tank. With this amount of live rock, a filter is not need as the rock will provide your filtration. However, if adding a filter is your choice, then the XP3 is a good one to choose>> Aqua C Pro with Mag pump protein skimmer. <<Great skimmer>> 120 lbs or more of live rock. <<Good>> CaribSea Aragamax Sugar Sized Sand 2 in. depth. <<Good>> 2 Hydro Koralia 3 (850 GPH) This gives me 1700 GPH. I was thinking 1 Hydro Koralia 3 (850 GPH) and 1 Hydro Koralia 2 (600 GPH)? I do want to blow the DSB around? <<As this is to be a reef, you'll need around about 2600GPH water circulation, so, combinations of the Hydors will achieve this>> 2 Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200 Watt Heaters. <<Good> Lighting supplied with a Current Orbit (2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system. <<Good>> I will move the soft coral to the upper part of the tank and the anemones are coming out (LFS gift). I will upgrade the lighting within the next few months. <<in my opinion this lighting is not good enough for anemone's. I high powered T5 or Metal Halide should be used for them>> That's it as far as equipment. I hope? Any more suggestions will be welcomed. <<All seem fine to me>> As far as livestock, for this future reef tank. No more tangs. As you advised me, in your previous reply. Is there any kind of show fish I can have? Full size Angel, Butterfly, etc.? What about some kind of schooling fish? What kind would you suggest and how many? <<There is a lot of fish you can have in there, but of course, compatibility with the corals is the harder part. It is unfortunate that most of the real "show" fish are not completely compatible with corals. Angels and butterflies being two of them>> Thanks Again. We are out here and we are listening..... <<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

"New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium 03/11/2008 I have inherited a "standard" size (48" long) & had a few questions about the setup. Only up one week since moved but from existing tank had ten gallons water & balance was RO saltwater from LFS. Everything tested good @ LFS one week later. ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, PH, salinity Currently: 50+ Pounds live rock, 2 Clown Fish, 1 Sailfin Tang, 1 Anemone (unidentified), 1 Mushroom coral (about 3 x 6 inches). <<Some observations at this point. These fish should not really be in this tank as i imagine it cannot of cycled within two weeks. The Sailfin tang need a far larger home than this current tank and the anemone should not be in a new tank>> Wet Dry Trickle Filter (LFS & prior owner recommended running w- out bio-balls because of amount of rock,) Excalibur Skimmer in sump, Hang on filter (LFS recommended not using, said no need, it had charcoal pouch & mechanical media. I thought the extra flow would be good, they told me it wouldn't be enough to help so why use. <<Any additional flow will help>> Also advised me removing charcoal <<Activated carbon>> from the trickle filter, which I did & replaced w-Purigen pouch in trickle filter), Fluidized Bed Filter (wasn't in use & I haven't set up, should I?) <<No need to use the fluidized filter>> Lighting, here is where I really need some advice, I don't want to be limited with what I can add as things progress. Currently only one 65w Corallife, there were two 40w fluorescents I can't get to function so I am trying to make the correct lighting choice on a budget. Looking @ 48" Corallife 4x65W Compact Fluorescent Retrofit http://www.coralreefsupply.com/index.php?aquarium=detail&detail=1001 which I could supplement w- Nova T5 28 watts per but I read that the lumen output was equivalent to a standard 40w. http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/power_nova.htm Or http://coralsplus.3dcartstores.com/48-4X96-Watt-PCCF-Retrofit-Kit_p_1850-2798.html 4x96 Watt PC/CF Retrofit Kit 384 total watts. I'm hoping you will say the 4x65 would be sufficient but from my research doesn't seem likely. <<Out of the lighting you've listed, i would choose http://coralsplus.3dcartstores.com/48-4X96-Watt-PCCF-Retrofit-Kit_p_1850-2798.html. If you don't want limitations on what you want to keep, you can search around and find a Metal halide lighting unit. This would certainly be your best option>> How about flow ? I couldn't find the GPM on the return pump from my trickle filter, have removed my hang on filter and have one "powerhead" Not sure if that is correct term for this item. Looks like it is designed only for water movement, hangs by 3 suction cups w- a flat diverter that swivels to adjust the flow. I would think I would need something in the opposite corner as well. I've seen a photo of something that actually looked like a standard house fan as far as the blade & cage. Attractive @ least. Don't remember where I saw or the brand. How many GPM should I be moving in addition to the trickle filter ? <<Without you providing specific equipment models, i cannot give you what gph the devices are. With that in mind, flow wise, you want to be aiming for around 1400 gph water circulation.>> Thank You <<Hope the above helps. Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>

Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium 03/12/2008 Thank you so much ! ! ! <<no problem>> I wouldn't have put the livestock in myself, but they came w- the purchase. I bought the aquarium on Craig's List w- the intent of setting up for Discus & when I went to p/u I realized I was going to need a crash course in marine systems. I rushed out & bought two books & have spent a tremendous amount of time on the web. Your site has been the most helpful by far. You are providing an amazing service to the community. <<Thank you>> I found the circulation pumps after I sent you the msg, they are Hydor Koralia and now I know what size to buy ! http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/pumps_koralia.htm <<Ahhh.. good choice of pump / powerhead there>> I spoke w- my LFS & they will let me bring them the Sailfin for store credit @ 25 cents on the dollar. That sounded very fair & he can have a better home. 23" yikes, currently he is only about 4" <<this is good then, it will be better off in a bigger home>> Thanks for all the help & all you do. Aidan <<Good luck, hope all turns out well. A Nixon>>

Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium 03/14/2008 Thank you, was hoping maybe you could respond to some of the questions & comments I sent GARF as well ? <<Added some comments into the email text below that you sent to GARF.>> <<Thanks, hope this helps. A Nixon>> Thanks again ! Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium 03/14/2008 Good morning, <<Good evening, Andrew today>> Was hoping I could receive your expert advice once again ? <<Shall try>> Here is a copy of an e-mail I sent to Geothermal Aquaculture Research Lab in Boise this AM. I have also included my prior e-mails to you @ the bottom for reference if needed. One thing I forgot to ask them is if they & now you think I am on the right track, is this GARF safe to add w- the existing livestock or should they or it be quarantined in anyway? <> I am pretty sure you are familiar w- the product but here is a link to the site just in case. http://www.garf.org/reefjanitors.html <<yes, seen this before>> Also I do have concerns about heat once the new lights are running, I am currently right @ 80 (assuming the cheap little thermometer in there is reasonably accurate) I don't know why it would be so high though, ambient temperature is 70-75, has open back canopy, about 6 inches off wall, piping is matched to pump port size. Trickle filter I thought helped w- heat dispersion. Current lighting is a Corallife 65w 50/50, I have an additional 4x65 50/50 Corallife retro on the way. <<Nothing excessive to cause temp rises. Devices inside the tank also contribute to tank temp>> Again, thanks in advance for all you do !! Aidan From: Stuart, Aidan Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 8:09 AM To: 'Leroy@garf.org' Subject: GARF Grunge Good Morning, I inherited a marine aquarium & am in the process of giving myself a crash course. 55G, has been set up about 2-1/2 weeks w- 10 gallons of original water & the balance from LFS. Ammonia, Nitrate & Nitrites all consistently test zero. There is I would estimate about 30-40 pounds of live rock & about 1-1/2 - 2" of live sand from the original aquarium. Inhabitants: Sailfin Tang (my LFS will take him, he is small now but since will outgrow this tank see no reason to keep him) 2 Clowns 1 Anemone (again LFS will take, want coral & have been advised I shouldn't have this w- coral) 1 Mushroom Coral I would like to eventually have a nice fish / coral mixture. Current Lighting is a 65W Corallife 50/50 but I have ordered an additional retrofit 4x65W Corallife 50/50 which will give me 3 sets of lights available to have on different timers. 2 50/50 @ 130w & one 50/50 @ 65w for a total available of 325. Have a wet/dry trickle filter w- mat & Purigen only (no bio-balls) that has a 500GPM flow, also 2 Koralia circulation pumps on order (600 GPM per) & a skimmer in the sump. As long as this aquarium was set up prior to my receiving (6 years, but I don't know how long the rock was in) I would have expected much more coralline on the rock & overflow wall. The rock I would estimate has maybe 15% - 20% coverage, but also has green hair algae (doesn't appear to be increasing or excessive) The overflow wall merely has nickel to quarter size patches. <<Coralline will arrive in time given good lighting, calcium Alk and Mag levels>> I don't want to get ahead of myself before adding more livestock & coral before the tank is ready & assume getting more coralline would be the 1st step ? <<This is no indication of a tanks suitability to house fish or corals, the water parameters / cycling are what govern this>> If I am correct in that I was wondering if the GARF Grunge would be the best start (& in what qty), <<Info stated on their website " 0NE POUND FOR EACH THREE GALLONS WILL ACTIVATE TWO INCHES OF ARAGONITE SAND ADD ONE POUND PER 10 GALLONS TO IMPROVE WILD LIVE SAND! " >> if so what combination of lighting from my above options would be best until the addition of corals, I am assuming the 1x65w @ 10-12 hrs ? <<8 hours is plenty of lighting>> If I am on the right track so far what would you recommend for a rough time estimate before I could add corals & additional fish. <<Once the cycle has completed and a large water change has been done, you can start to slowly stock the tank>> Lastly here is a list of species I thought may be good for a tank of this size that would peacefully co-exist. Do these look like good picks & if so what qty of each would you recommend both for compatibility & bio-load. Would order added matter ? I do currently have the two Ocellaris, the Sailfin & anemone will be returned before I make any additions. Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas) Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) Bicolor Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis paccagnellae) Limbaugh Chromis Damsel (Chromis limbaughi) <> Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) <<Add this fish last>> Royal Gamma Basslet (Gramma loreto) <>>>

Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium... GARF/Grunge... using WWM 03/15/2008 Thank you sir, I appreciate the advice, I assume you had no objections to the GARF then. One forum I looked @ had to shut down a couple of threads on the subject because they took a nasty turn, very strong opinions on both sides. <<Its a very debatable issue i suppose. An aspect you have to consider is how genuine the product is? Fact is, a lot / most wont have a means of checking out the product to ensure the specific contents. Would i use this? No...Given time, life will be generated under its own steam. Just my opinion of course. Hope this helps. A Nixon>> <Aidan... take a look on WWM (the search tool...) re GARF, "Grunge".... this "product" is a hoax... "some old guy with a hammer smashing up dead LR"... Andrew Nixon is in the UK... likely unfamiliar with... RMF.>

New setup stocking question, reef 03/03/2008 Hello Crew! <<G'Morning, Andrew today>> Fantastic site and I wish to extend my own personal *thank you* for the hard work, dedication, and information provided to all of us addicts! Unfortunately, even after months of ready FAQs, articles, and Internet searches I still find that I have questions. I would think that what I'm attempting to do would be common, but perhaps not. <<We shall see as we go through it>> For a brief background, I have been setting up my first system, a 75 gallon, for nearly a year now. A few weeks ago I finally got things to the point that the tank is cycling. This includes a refugium, skimmer, automatic top of system, MH lighting, as well as several custom built covers for keeping a few of these species in the tank. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I have included links to photos at the end of this correspondence so that you can see the setup. This system was designed with two primary species in mind and the intent to stock corals for a full fledged reef. <<Sounds like a hood plan and system>> The first design consideration is Synchiropus splendidus (Mandarin). I am well aware that these fish ted to have potential feeding issues. This fish will not be attempted until copepod (most likely sourced via oceanpods.com) and amphipods (most likely sourced via ipsf.com) have been stocked in the refugium and allowed to "socialize" for a great deal of time. <<Goo deal...Best waiting for at least 9 months or more before considering attempting a mandarin>> My next design consideration was for some form of Opistognathus (Jawfish). My original plan was for Opistognathus rosenblatti until I read on WWM that they were a cooler water species. I would like to house more than one for the interaction, so I am leaning towards a pair of Opistognathus aurifrons instead. Again these are a special needs fish, so the tank has been filled with ample substrate of various particle sizes to accommodate burrows. <<Superb...Such a great fish to see in an aquarium>> In fact one end of the tank has around six to seven inches of aragonite while the other end has four to five inches. Again, links to photos are provided for reference. <<Looks very good to me Just ensure that any live rock is touching the bottom of the tank, and not resting on sand, as once the burrowing starts, the potential for live rock shifts could be there>> While on the subject of a deep substrate, I am also having trouble deciphering the "clean up crew" issue for stirring of the substrate. It seems to me that species that "stir" devour everything that I wish to propagate for the benefit of the mandarin, limited DSB, and other inhabitants. Are micro stars safe or not, what about "sand bed clams", and snails? <<A good crew of snail and reef safe hermits will do a good job. Some brittle stars are ok, read more here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brittlestars.htm >> Oh, I'm also planning on getting some worms to seed both the display and refugium. If I could get a few recommendations or sources on this subject I would greatly appreciate it. I will of course need the algae eaters as well but those seem to be easy to pick out. <<A cup of sand from an already established reef would be far better in my opinion>> Now that we're on the topic of stocking questions, I need a few names to research as far as fish are concerned. I would like to find something small that would give me a nice "group" of swimmer(s) for the middle to upper range of the tank. <<Chromis fish school well, in groups of 5 or more, give a nice colour to the tank>> The issue that I seem to run into are that species that I seem to pick out all like to burrow in the sand (which I do not believe would make my future Opistognathus very happy), create a greater demand on the copepod population (which I know everything will to some extent but...), or are too aggressive for other inhabitants or each other. I'm thinking along the lines of 3 - 5 for the group. Any suggestions? <<As above, chromis are a good schooling fish, a nice group of Clownfish, some Anthiinae school well also. I would not be overly too worried about copepod population of the sandbed, they will also colonise on the rock, the refugium will be the biggest pod growth centre>> One last note. I do have a maroon clown that will eventually get placed in the display, but my intention is to have this placed last if at all possible. She came with the purchase of a used setup and has since been in a 10 gallon QT tank. Not the most ideal of situations but she seems happy and certainly healthy! <<Don't see any problems. Just research the compatibility of future inhabitants>> http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2270024.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2270026.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2270025.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2210210.jpg http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/P2220214.jpg
<<Nice photos, thanks>> A couple of the photos have a tape measure in them for reference. That tape is about 2 inches short due to the fact that the tank sits IN the stand not ON the stand. Also, if you go to the following link http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m127/Umbra_Vipera/AquariumPhotos/75%20Gallon%20Setup/?albumview=grid you can view all the photos in the album. Some are OK some not...I'm not a professional photographer either. <<Enjoyed browsing through you photo library, some nice shots in there>> Thank you for time. Sincerely, Heath Carter <<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Re: New setup stocking question 03/04/2008 Thank you for your time and reply. <<Hello, no problem at all>> I will do further research into chromis options available. I will also see if I can locate a reputable source for a live sand donation. I wanted to clarify as well that the base rock was placed in the display first and then buried under the sand. <<Sounds good>> I ensured my belligerent attacks shaking the tank couldn't knock over the "piles". Now the rock in the refugium is another story, but there will not be anything in there except the rock and 'pods. """""""(Get it? Rock'nPods?)""""""" <<Oh my, don't give up your day job....ha ha ha ha ha ;O) >> Sorry it's late and I have more research to complete! Again thank you very much, Heath Carter <<Take care, and hope all turns out well for you. A Nixon>>

Tank Setup Update 2/27/08 Hello Crew and Bob <Hello Brian, Scott V. with you today.> I'm writing you today not to ask questions but to give you a update on my new reef tank ;) <OK> Thanks to Scott V and Mike at www.glass-holes.com I have put together the perfect reef setup. I ordered a 1500g overflow box kit which came with the diamond bit and all accessories needed for the overflow including a cool glass-holes.com tee shirt and some hard candies. Thanks Scott and Mike So here's my tank setup we'll see how perfect it is as of today. Cycling the aquarium started 2-21-08 so its 5 days old.. 55 lbs of live rock from Dr Foster and Smith "Nice stuff by the way" 70 lbs of sand bed. It's about 5 inches deep. The sump actually overflows into the refuge...My idea but with Scott V helping me with this idea .Thanks again Scott, it works perfect. <Good to hear.> 2 DIY refuge's 1 has 6 inches of sand other has 4 inches of refuge mud I plan on growing macro after the cycle is completed.. No light over refuge as of yet. And then 2 Mag drive 12 pumps returning water through Vinyl Tubing 3/4" so total I'm pumping roughly 1400 gph total I'm thinking? <I would like to state for other's sake that I would not typically recommend this much pump on two 1 Â½' bulkheads. Yours is a situation that allowed it with your particular plumbing combination and head pressure.> Lighting is the Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures w/Lunar Lights total watts is 216 I plan on just LPS tank at the moment.. My skimmer is junk Skimmer I'm ordering from Scott V he just doesn't know it yet ;) <Heee, I do now!> Tank specs as of tonight 2-26-08 , 5:00 pm Water is RO Water change 10 gal weekly Sal 1.024 Temp 80 PH 8.2 Amm 0 ppm Nitrite 0 ppm Nitrate 5.0 ppm Alk 3.0 Cal 100 I'm ignoring Alk and Cal readings above only because it's a new tank! I added a 2 part calcium/Alk called C-balance tonight rechecking numbers tomorrow hoping these numbers will balance (Alk 2.5 Cal 420). <Yes, do supplement to get these numbers up.> I'm guessing these numbers are good for the tank being 5 days old That's about all I can think of tonight I hope I didn't leave anything out. With all this finally done I owe many people like WWM Crew and Bob Fenner for this Web site as I am an everyday reader a BIG THANK YOU for everything you guys/gals do! <<This is what makes all the time, daily... worthwhile. RMF>> >:((((-< Brian Coble, Wisconsin <You are welcome Brian, I am glad we could help. Thank you for all the kind words and the update on your system. Scott V., in sunny California.>

New setup.... Reef 02/26/2008 I just bought a 90 gallon aquarium with a Red Sea Berlin Classic rated for 250 gallons. I am reading many different opinions on wet dry or just skimmer. My question is if I do not use a wet dry how do I set up the sump, and skimmer, and what do I use (empty tank, or custom sump)? <<I personally do not recommend a wet-dry filter arrangement in a marine system. Setting up the sump is relatively straight forward. The sump is split into 3 areas...1) Inlet section where the water arrives from the main display tank, you can house the skimmer in this section...2) Central section, the refugium. In here you will have a DSB, live rock rubble and some macro algae for nutrient export......3) Return section which will house the return pump...A good place to start with learning sumps can be found here.. http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html>> I want to make it a reef tank, and also want know how much rock is recommended. Should I use live sand or leave the bottom empty? <<Rock recommendations are to aim for about 1 - 1.5lbs of live rock per gallon of tank water. Live sand is a debatable issue. I don't feel its necessary as life will eventually spread from the live rock in to the sandbed. For sand, I mainly recommend aragonite sugar grain reef sand, Caribsea provide this product>> Thanks for your help. John <<Thank you for the questions John, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Re: new setup, reef 02/26/2008 Thanks for your help, <<Hello again John, no problem at all>> I have two more questions. <<Great, I love questions...>> Do I have to have any substrate? I have seen tanks with no sand on the bottom at all, is this acceptable? <<No, you don't have to have a substrate in the tank, this a personal preference area here, bare bottom is fine>> Do I need any type of mechanical filtration? <<Mechanical filtration all depends on the amount of live rock your planning on putting in the system. If you go for 1 - 1.5lbs of live rock per gallon, then, that would be all the filtration you actually need. If you don't intend on having this much, then an external filter of some type will be needed to bolster mech filtration levels>> Thanks John <<Hope that helps John...A Nixon>>

No Questions, Just Thanks 2/19/08 Hi Crew <Hi Garry> Having been away from the hobby for over ten years (major family illness meant no time) I am now approaching that time when the reef bug has caught hold and gone from being latent to rampant again. <Ah, the bug has bit.> Much has changed, although I seem to have done much of what is current anyway, refugia, big skimmers, live rock filtration methods, etc etc (more by accident than design I might add), and finding your site has allowed the dream and adventure to begin on a much more solid foundation than before. I know my stocking rates have always been light and my filtration heavy but it always worked for me and I only ever seemed to lose a fish shrimp or whatever through old age or accident. It is good to know that what I did in the past is advised as being the way to go today. <Not much has changed but technology.> So this is just a big thank you to everyone from Bob to Steve to anyone who replies to the thousands of questions people come up with. Your site has replaced a lot of faith I have lost with the industry (hobby) what with shops who don't have a clue (keeping a few small wrasse with an Anglerfish is just one example), and staff about as knowledgeable (sorry if that's spelt wrong) as a garbage man in a hospital. <Thank you for your kind words. James (Salty Dog)> Regards Garry Holter (in the UK) Oh I'm an ecologist by training and understand community structure very well (it formed my D.Phil research for 4 years) and boy does that help in structuring a reef aquarium. <<Would very much encourage your writing... re the many useful tie-ins here. Bob Fenner>> <Mmmm>

75 gallon system, reef set-up Qs 2/2/08 Hey guys, <Mr. Christian> It's been a while since I have last written to you guys, and since then I have been forced to tear down the tank, and attempt to start it up once again, thus of course leading to many more questions! It is a standard 75 gallon tank with a built in overflow which leads down to a SeaLife Systems wet/dry 125 in which I have replace the bio balls with live rock rubble.... The next section of the wet/dry is where the useless SeaLife Systems protein skimmer and rio return pump sit, both of which no longer work and are the main reasons for the collapse of the beautiful tank I used to have. My plan for this tank is to go full blown reef with many different inverts and just a couple small reef safe fish. So, here is the equipment I am looking into buying for my new setup: (I haven't bought them yet so please tell me if you have any suggestions) Protein Skimmer - Euro Reef RS100 <Good unit> Lighting - Outer Orbit 48" 2x 150w 10K Metal halides with 2x 130 w actinic PC's Live Rock - 90 lbs of liveaquaria.com's select Lalo LR Sandbed - Want a 4" deep sandbed to help with NNR, is it possible to use sand bought from Home Depot for this? <Mmm, possibly... they used to carry a calcareous play sand... but not all is of such a nature... Do you know of the "acid test"? See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm and the linked files above> Perhaps supplement with other Live Sand? <Good idea> Also do you know approximately how many pounds I would need to create a 4" deep bed? <Mmm... about thirty pounds per square foot of bottom> Pumps/Circulation - Return pump will be a Rio 20HF, and the in tank powerheads will be a Tunze Turbelle Stream 6060 (too much flow do you think?) <Not too much> and also on the side of the return, a Hydor Koralia NANO. Anyways, these are just my plans so far, please give me your suggestions, opinions. etc. Can't wait to hear back from you guys and thanks a bunch. -Christian <Thus far, so good... Bob Fenner>

Moving to a Bigger Tank, reef... stkg., set-up 2-1-08 Hi Bob, <Do I look that old? ;) Mike here today, Bob is having a beer (if he's lucky...)> Fantastic site with a TON of great information. <Yes it is, thanks> I Currently have a 56 gal with LR/LS, NO coral, a few inverts (snails, arrow crab, choc chip star, and emerald crab) and of course fish. We just bought some more fish for the aquarium last week knowing we will be buying a 125 gal this coming week. The fish we have are 1 Banggai cardinal, 1 PJ cardinal, 1 maroon/gold clown, 1 blue hippo tang, and the new additions are 1 latticed butterfly, 1 coral beauty angel, 1 Twinspot goby, and 1 red knobbed starfish. <Banggai's are schooling fish, might want to get a few more of these guys> A lot for a 56 gal tank, <Too small for the tang, that's for sure> I really should have waited to get the new guys. Everyone is doing fine, but I want to keep the ball rolling on getting them into their bigger home. <Good idea> My question involves setting up/cycling the new 125g tank. First of all, let me mention that we are not currently happy with our current substrate (Florida crushed coral) from a purely aesthetic point of view, and want to add sand to the new tank, which I'm sure the new Twinspot will love more than the coral. My LFS suggested that with adding the new LS, my existing as well as some new LR, and also adding a live bacteria product, that I could move the fish over after 24 hours, and if I wanted to wait 1 week and monitor the water that would be better, but after 1 week it was fine. I have read the articles here on establishing the bio filter and cycling, and that time period seems a little short to me. I really don't have the space to maintain both tanks for long, but when it comes to the health of my "babies" I can manage for a couple weeks. Do you think adding what I have mentioned above, and waiting about 2 weeks and monitoring the water quality will be long enough? <Yes, as long as all the params read appropriately...should anything go awry, Amquel+ is a lifesaver. Make sure your skimmer can handle the larger water volume, and if you don't have a skimmer, get one> Also, they advised that by adding all three items, LR, LS, and live bacteria, that I really wont see a fluctuation in test numbers in terms of ammonia and nitrites. What SHOULD I be looking for to know that the tank is truly ready, an increase in Nitrates? <If your ammonia and nitrites are zero, you can safely add your livestock. Monitor your water once daily for any ammonia or nitrite spikes (possible but not likely) and dose with Amquel+ or Seachem Prime to neutralize (assuming your animals are present)> My last question is, will moving the decor and LR to the new tank, and basically leaving my livestock in a bare tank with substrate be detrimental to them? Should I leave a couple decorations and a big piece or two of LR in there until the move? <I wouldn't even split the two - you should be fine adding the LR and fish at the same time. The LR is what's performing your biological filtration in your current aquarium anyway (unless you have another biological filter you didn't mention) and it will continue to do so in your new aquarium. Add your sand to you new aquarium, fill with saltwater of the same temp/salinity/pH, and add your rock and animals - just see above re params> Sorry for so many questions, but I want to do this the right way and not over stress them. <No problem> Thank you again for such a great site and great information. <Anytime> Mike Parker <M. Maddox>

Re: Moving to a Bigger Tank 2/5/08 Thank you again Mike for the wonderful info and help. <Anytime> I have a couple follow up questions if that is ok? <Sure> I visited my LFS tonight, and one question concerns the live bacteria. The LFS seemed to "strongly suggest" using this live bacteria product that runs about $28 to treat 50 gallons. So, I would need to buy 3 of them. Given that I am adding 100-120 lbs of new live sand, along with about 50lbs of existing live rock, another 25 lbs (for starters) of new live rock I am purchasing when I pick up the tank, and I also currently have an unopened bottle of Hagen Cycle, do I need the other bacteria they suggest? <Not at all - no bottled product is going to come close to the bacterial colonies on the rock/sand> The Hagen cycle bottle says it treats over 250 gallons, and the tank will be a 125. Do you think with the LS/LR/Cycle product combo that my two week water-monitoring time frame would still apply? I'm not trying to cut corners by any means, but I just felt that after asking my LFS about a good $1200-$1500 worth of equipment I told them I was going to be getting soon, they were just "piling on" some extras they say I "need". The extras leads me to my other question. They also recommended strongly a Pro-Clear wet/dry 125g filter. After reading a lot on WWM about wet/dry filters and LR/LS, it seems that a wet/dry is really not necessary, unless I was reading more into it than what was really being said? Also, I have read a lot about removing the blue bio-balls, which seemed to be the big selling point that my LFS was touting about the wet/dry filter. Would I be able to run a good, healthy system with my LS/LR, a 125g Coralife protein skimmer which I already have, and two AquaClear 110 filters? I have an AquaClear 70 on my tank now, but I don't think that adding 1 AquaClear and the existing 70 would handle the job. <The wet/dry isn't necessary at all, unless you plan on stocking a high bioload of exceptionally messy fishes, such as triggers/puffers/groupers/lionfish> I guess what I want to know is: with the skimmer, two AquaClear 110's, and using the money I would be saving on the wet/dry setup to get more live rock than I had planned, would that be acceptable? <With a decent stocking load, you're fine with what you have. No more rock/filtration is necessary. Just use the AquaClear filters for mechanical/chemical filtration and clean the sponges a few times a week. If you want to spend money somewhere, spend it on a skimmer, because manufacturers tend to overrate their skimmer's abilities> As an afterthought, if that IS acceptable would it be in my best interest to strap on the AquaClear 70 next to the two 110's since I already have it and it would provide more filtration/water flow? <Couldn't hurt - again, clean mechanical filters frequently (2-4 times/week)> Thank you again for your time and your help, it is very much appreciated. <Anytime> Mike Parker <M. Maddox>

Moving into a bigger tank part III 2-05-08 Thanks again for the help. Just a quick question on the water flow for this new 125 gallon tank. The two AquaClear 110 filters are rated at 500gph each. My protein skimmer is also rated 500gph. I plan on adding two Koralia 3 powerheads when I set up the tank @ 850gph each. That gives me a total of 3200gph. My first thought was, is this too much for the 125 gallon tank? Then I quickly realized that I really will only have control over 1700gph of the 3200 total (the two powerheads) in terms of directing the flow. And now I am wondering if that will be enough flow for the tank? I'd appreciate your thoughts. By the way, the dimensions of the tank are 72x18x22, Don't think I ever listed that. <Sounds good, especially for a FOWLR. Put sponges over the powerhead intakes and clean them at least once a week> Thanks again for your time, and your help. <Anytime> Mike P. <M. Maddox>

Moving to a bigger tank part IV 2-08-06 Mike (or whichever helpful crew member may reply), Thanks again for the help. I had a little accident last night. Some big dummy dropped his Coralife 125 protein skimmer onto first an iron doorstop, and then a tile floor, while taking it for a cleaning. <Ouch - we've all been in similar situations> Needless to say, the main collection tube cracked and also a piece flew out and now there is a hole...not good. So I am now skimmerless. My question is, with purchasing the 125 gallon setup I had mentioned, funds are pretty scarce. The only skimmer I would be able to pick up from my LFS for the time being is a SeaClone 150 (hold your screams). I would MUCH rather not throw money into a sub-par skimmer (not that the Coralife was a prize, but at least it worked well) and save and invest in a much better skimmer in 2-3 months (which I had planned on doing to replace the Coralife). My question is, in the new 125 fish only tank, with 100lbs of new LS, 50 or so lbs of LR, 2 AquaClear 100's, and 3 Koralia 3 powerheads (I decided to buy 3 instead of two), and not having any "messy fish" that you mentioned earlier, would this be ok? Would I be able to maintain a good health level for my tank for a few months without a skimmer? I don't know if I should take the "any port in a storm" mentality and get any skimmer I can afford in there, or save it and be able to get the GOOD skimmer a little quicker in a couple months. Again I thank you for your input, time, and knowledge. <You should be fine...just monitor water quality and perform husbandry as needed. I would wait and purchase a quality skimmer> Mike P. <M. Maddox>

R4: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not 'Really' A Biotope'¦Bummer) -- 01/23/08 Hi again, Eric <<Hello Barb!>> Here I am again! :) <<Me too!>> I read up on the shrimp goby/shrimp symbionts; they sound like my cup of tea. <<Cool>> Thanks for the link. <<Quite welcome>> My question for keeping them regards the substrate. For the DSB I was planning on using the sugar-fine aragonite. <<Mmm yes, I recall'¦not the 'best' for the shrimp/goby>> However, I've read that a coarser sand bed is preferred by a lot of these creatures. <<Indeed'¦ And more than preferred'¦is necessary'¦ to allow them to build structures/tunnels that won't collapse>> Comments? <<Easy enough to rectify by adding some substrate of a larger grain size'¦along with some crushed shells>> From what I've read, mixing different sized sands doesn't work well for DSB. What are your thoughts on that? <> I understand your comments about including an anemone in this system. If I want to do this I need to thoroughly understand the anemone type so that it is protected. <<Along with protecting its tankmates>> I get how sensitive they are, and I certainly wouldn't want to torture something just so I have something cool to look at! <<And it wouldn't likely be for long at that. Do consider that there has been some speculation that anemones may be truly 'immortal' creatures, never showing any signs/wear-and-tear of aging. Succumbing only to the vagaries of their environment. Considering this'¦keeping one of these animals 'alive for a few years' can hardly be deemed as 'success'>> I am reading about allelopathy and it is slow going. <<Patience, Grasshopper>> Complicated, to say the least <I'm thinking you probably know this :) > I do see why you suggest adding extra filtration. <<Indeed>> If and when I get my mind around the subject I'll probably ask more questions! :-/ <<Okey-dokey!>> Re: light bulb choices; you say that it would be good to add more lower Kelvin rated bulbs; is the GE 65K Daylight bulb the type you are talking about? <<It is, yes'¦to replace the more 'blue' bulbs in your previous selection'¦as would be most any of the true 10,000K bulbs available>> Adding more of that type would "give more output/provide more useful spectrum"? <<Yes'¦ A 65K bulb will have far better output than most of the 'blue' bulbs, and it will still have enough light in the blue spectrum for your livestock's needs. Generally, adding blue/actinic light is for the aquarist's enjoyment>> And, one New question concerning Live Rock; what is your opinion of aquacultured live rock/live sand? I'm referring specifically to Tampa Bay Saltwater's rock/sand. I was reading about it on several different forums, and it sure does make some beautiful looking tanks. << I prefer to stay away from this, though use the aquacultured rock if you wish'¦just be sure to cure it thoroughly yourself. It won't cause any harm, but I have heard many experiences of pest organisms (Aiptasia/mantis shrimp) coming in with this rock. And not that this can't be the case with 'any' rock'¦but a good quality 'natural' live rock will be lighter (much 'cultured' rock is Limestone), and have better biodiversity'¦in my opinion. Oh yeah'¦don't pay money for 'live sand' if you can help it. Add a suitable 'dry' sand and it will become 'live' in short order from the rock, corals, et al>> Re: cats and snow. When my kitty touched snow for the first time she shot straight up in the air LOL... like about 3ft in the air. She was very sad when she landed right back in it! <<We're still waiting to give ours a go in the snow'¦might be years yet!>> And, lastly, I mentioned my son lives at the beach on Topsail Island? <<Yes>> On Monday morning it was 11f there, and all his pipes froze! <<Yikes'¦ Was about 23F here'¦still colder than we like/are used to>> He wasn't happy about that, but he did get the day off work to deal with it. He always likes a day off from work. <<You know what they say'¦a bad day at most anything, beats a good day at work!>> Thanks again for help with my (probably annoying) new-to-the-reef questions! Barb <<Not at all, Barb'¦I look forward to further exchanges. Eric Russell>>


Small Marine Aquariums Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 2: Fishes New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner	Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

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